Stable interface biphase composition

Abstract

Stable Interface Biphase Composition. The present invention relates to a composition comprising a distinct aqueous phase and an oily phase, characterized in that the oily phase comprises squalane, dicaprylyl ether, and a mixture of linear or branched alkanes having 15 to 19 carbon atoms, said composition being substantially free of surfactants and silicones. It also relates to associated cosmetic processes and uses. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Two-phase composition with stable interface

[0001] The present invention relates to a two-phase composition consisting of a separate aqueous phase and an oily phase, the oily phase comprising specific oils. The present invention also relates to the use of such a composition, as well as a care method using such a composition.

[0002] Compositions consisting of two distinct phases, in particular an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are distinct and not emulsified in each other at rest, are generally referred to as "two-phase compositions". They are distinguished from emulsions by the fact that at rest, the two phases are distinct instead of being emulsified in each other. The use of these two-phase compositions requires prior stirring in order to form an emulsion, which must be of sufficient quality and stability to allow homogeneous application of the two phases to the skin or keratin material to which it is applied. At rest, said phases must separate rapidly and return to their initial state, this phenomenon being better known as "phase separation" or "demixing".

[0003] A relatively rapid demixing of the two phases after their use constitutes one of the desired qualities of two-phase compositions. Indeed, obtaining a rapid phase separation is desirable for various reasons, in particular because poor separation of the two phases is perceived as being unsightly by users, and it can lead to a modification of the product into “three-phases” over successive uses.

[0004] In addition, the commercially available two-phase compositions are used in particular for care.

[0005] However, two-phase compositions usually have a greasy sensory quality and interfaces that are not very stable after stirring (cloudiness, formation of swirls, etc.).

[0006] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. those whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern to help meet global challenges.

[0007] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients, thus making it possible to respond to these environmental challenges.

[0008] There therefore remains a need for new two-phase compositions consisting of two distinct immiscible phases, which have a light texture, a non-greasy sensoriality, and good demixing qualities while guaranteeing effective care. There is also a need for two-phase compositions having a clean and stable interface after agitation (i.e. no cloudiness or swirl formation).

[0009] Furthermore, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0010] The inventors have surprisingly discovered that the ternary association of squalane, dicaprylyl ether and linear or branched alkanes having from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, in specific proportions, coupled with an aqueous phase, makes it possible to obtain a two-phase composition which meets these needs. The compositions according to the invention have in particular a light texture, a non-greasy sensoriality, good demixing qualities, a clean and stable interface after stirring, and good care efficacy.

[0011] More specifically, the subject of the present invention is a composition, preferably a care composition, comprising a separate aqueous phase and an oily phase, in which the oily phase comprises squalane, dicaprylyl ether and a mixture of linear or branched alkanes having from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, said composition being substantially free of surfactants and silicones.

[0012] Such a composition according to the invention is a two-phase composition.

[0013] The expression “biphasic composition” or two-phase designates a composition which is made up of two distinct phases, in this case an aqueous phase and an oily phase, and which requires prior stirring in order to form an emulsion before application.

[0014] Preferably, the two-phase composition according to the invention comprises the aqueous phase and the oily phase in a respective weight ratio of between 70:30 and 98:2, preferably between 75:25 and 95:5, preferably around 90:10.

[0015] Such ratio values ​​make it possible to obtain a two-phase composition which in particular has a satisfactory visual rendering.

[0016] All the compositions according to the present invention are cosmetic compositions. By “cosmetic” is meant a composition compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and / or appendages.

[0017] The two-phase composition according to the invention is substantially free of surfactants. It is also substantially free of silicones. By “substantially surfactant-free” composition is meant that this composition comprises less than 0.5% by weight of surfactants relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight. Preferably, the two-phase composition according to the invention is completely free of surfactants. Preferably, the two-phase composition according to the invention is substan substantially free of non-ionic surfactants, preferably completely free of non-ionic surfactants. Preferably, the two-phase composition according to the invention is substantially free of non-ionic surfactants chosen from polysorbates and polyglycerolated esters (in particular polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate and polyglyceryl-6 oleate), preferably completely free of non-ionic surfactants chosen from polysorbates and polyglycerolated esters.

[0018] By “substantially silicone-free” composition is meant that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight of silicones relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight. Preferably, the two-phase composition according to the invention is completely silicone-free. Oily phase

[0019] The two-phase composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase comprising at least squalane, dicaprylyl ether and a mixture of linear or branched alkanes having from 15 to 19 carbon atoms.

[0020] Said oily phase is liquid at room temperature (20-25°C).

[0021] The concentration of the oily phase preferably varies from 2 to 30% by weight, preferably from 2 to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.

[0022] Preferably, the concentration of the oily phase is approximately 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition. Squalane

[0023] Squalane (C30H62, chemical name 2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosane) is a saturated hydrocarbon composed of a chain of 30 saturated carbon atoms with the following formula:

[0024] [Chem.l]

[0025] It is obtained by hydrogenation of squalene (C3oH5O). Originally, squalene was extracted from shark liver oil. Squalane, due to its saturated chemical structure, is much more stable than squalene, which peroxidizes very easily.

[0026] The squalane used in the invention is preferably of plant origin. Preferably, the squalane comes from vegetable oils, preferably olive oil, wheat germ oil, bran oil, rice oil or olive starches.

[0027] Preferably, in the present invention, squalane is extracted from olive oil.

[0028] For example, we will use the product marketed under the name Neossance Squalane by Amyris.

[0029] Preferably, the two-phase composition according to the invention comprises from 45% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of oily phase of squalane. Preferably, the two-phase composition according to the invention comprises from 50% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of oily phase of squalane, preferably from 55% to 70% by weight, preferably from 60% to 70% by weight. Dicaprylyl ether

[0030] Dicaprylyl ether (or di-n-octyl ether) is a hydrocarbon oil derived from fatty acids of plant origin, such as those from coconut.

[0031] It is notably marketed by Cognis under the name Cetiol OE, or by Ecogreen under the name Rofetan OE.

[0032] Preferably, the two-phase composition according to the invention comprises from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of oily phase of dicaprylyl ether. Preferably, the two-phase composition comprises from 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of oily phase of dicaprylyl ether, preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, preferably from 13% to 17% by weight.

[0033] Linear or branched alkanes having from 15 to 19 carbon atoms

[0034] The composition according to the present invention further comprises a mixture of linear or branched alkanes having from 15 to 19 carbon atoms.

[0035] As examples of alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of mixtures of alkanes having from 15 to 19 carbon atoms with a molecular weight between 200 g / mol and 250 g / mol.

[0036] Preferably, the alkanes are branched.

[0037] Preferably, the alkanes are of plant origin.

[0038] Preferably, a mixture comprising 95 to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture, of branched C15-C19 alkanes, and 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture, of C12-C14 and C20-C26 alkanes is used. Such a mixture preferably has a molecular weight of approximately 216 g / mol. Such a mixture is marketed by Seppic under the reference Emogreen L15.

[0039] Alternatively, preferably, a mixture is used comprising 95 to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture, of branched C15-C19 alkanes, and 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture, of C12-C14 and C20-C26 alkanes. Such a mixture preferably has a molecular weight of approximately 248 g / mol. Such a mixture is marketed by Seppic under the reference Emogreen L19.

[0040] Alternatively, preferably, a mixture comprising 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture, of branched C15-C19 alkanes, and 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture, of C12-C14 and C20-C26 alkanes is used. Such a mixture is marketed by Seppic under the reference Emosmart L19.

[0041] Preferably, the two-phase composition according to the invention comprises from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of oily phase of a mixture of linear or branched alkanes having from 15 to 19 carbon atoms. Preferably, the two-phase composition according to the invention comprises from 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of oily phase of a mixture of linear or branched alkanes having from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 13% to 17% by weight. Aqueous phase

[0042] The two-phase composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase, which preferably comprises at least water.

[0043] The aqueous phase optionally contains at least one organic solvent soluble or miscible in water at 25°C.

[0044] Water-soluble or miscible solvents suitable for the invention include linear or branched alkanols, short chain, for example C2-C4, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol; diols or polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-pentadiol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof.

[0045] Ethanol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and / or propylene glycol will be used more particularly.

[0046] Preferably, the water-soluble or miscible solvents are present in a content of at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of aqueous phase, preferably at least 3% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 6% by weight, preferably at least 8% by weight.

[0047] Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises at least 60% by weight of water relative to the total weight of aqueous phase, preferably at least 70% by weight, preferably between 80% and 98% by weight.

[0048] The concentration of the aqueous phase preferably varies from 70 to 98% by weight, preferably from 75% to 98% by weight, preferably from 80% to 95% by weight, preferably from 85 to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.

[0049] The aqueous phase and / or the oily phase may further comprise conventional cosmetic active ingredients and / or adjuvants, such as electrolytes, chelators, perfumes and / or preservatives.

[0050] Among the active ingredients, mention may be made of hydrophilic active ingredients and lipophilic active ingredients. As active ingredients, mention may be made of niacinamide, plant extracts, adenosine and vitamins, their precursors or derivatives. Plant extracts may be hydrophilic or lipophilic. As vitamins, their precursors or derivatives, mention may be made of panthenol or tocopherol. Preferably, the two-phase composition according to the invention comprises at least niacinamide.

[0051] The electrolyte may be chosen from sodium chloride or sodium sulfate.

[0052] The electrolyte is preferably sodium chloride.

[0053] Preferably, the content of active material in electrolyte(s) is between 0.1% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of aqueous phase, preferably between 0.1% and 2% by weight, preferably between 0.2% and 1% by weight.

[0054] The present invention also relates to a process for caring for keratin materials comprising the application to said keratin materials, in particular the skin, mucous membranes and / or hair, of a two-phase composition according to the invention.

[0055] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating and / or caring for human keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising stirring a two-phase composition according to the invention, then applying it to the surface of said keratin materials.

[0056] The present invention also relates to the use of a two-phase composition according to the invention for the care of keratin materials, in particular the skin, mucous membranes and / or hair.

[0057] By “human keratin materials” is meant the skin (body, face, eye contour), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, nails, lips and mucous membranes.

[0058] The expressions “between ... and ...”, “ranging from ... to ...” and “varies from ... to ...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0059] Concrete, but in no way limiting, examples illustrating the invention will now be given.

[0060] In the examples, the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated. The percentages are given by weight, unless otherwise indicated. Examples

[0061] Example 1: preparation of a two-phase composition according to the invention

[0062] A two-phase composition according to the invention is prepared according to the following process. It consists of 90% by weight of a composition Cl (i.e. aqueous phase), and 10% by weight of composition C2 (i.e. oily phase).

[0063] The preparation method is as follows:

[0064] Composition C1 is prepared by heating the water and glycols of phase A1 to 60°C. The preservatives are dissolved and the remaining ingredients of A1 are introduced. The phase obtained is diluted with the water of A2 and cooled, and the other ingredients of B, C, E are then introduced and homogenized cold. Niacinamide (F) is solubilized at the end of manufacture, before the addition of ethanol (G). The aqueous phase obtained is filtered at the end of manufacturing on a 5pm filter.

[0065] The ingredients of the fatty phase C2 are cold homogenized, with an all-in-one process. The fatty phase obtained is filtered at the end of production on a 50pm filter.

[0066] Finally, 90% by weight of composition C1 is mixed with 10% by weight of composition C2.

[0067] Composition Cl - aqueous phase:

[0068] [Tables 1] INCI % Concentration (by weight relative to the weight of Cl) Phase Water 20 Al PROPYLENE GLYCOL 1.2 Al PENTYLENE GLYCOL 0.5 Al BUTYLENE GLYCOL 3.3 Al Preservative Qs Al Citric acid 0.024 Al Water Qsp 100 A2 Sodium chloride 0.28 B ADENOSINE 0.045 C CEREUS GRANDIFLORUS (CACTUS) FLOWER EXTRACT 2.6 E CALENDULA OFFICINALIS FLOWER EXTRACT 0.12 E PANTHENOL 0.89 E ALPHA-GLUCAN OLIGOSACCHARIDE 0.13 E NIACINAMIDE 2.23 F Ethanol 3.58 G

[0069] Composition C2 - oily phase:

[0070] [Tables2] INCI (US / EU) % Concentration (by weight relative to the weight of C2) Phase SQUALANE (Neossance Squalane from Amyris) Qsp 100 A DICAPRYLYL ETHER 15 A C15-19 ALKANE (Emogreen L19 from SEPPIC) 15 A LIMNANTHES ALBA (MEADOWFOAM) SEED OIL 3 A TOCOPHEROL 0.1 A HAEMATOCOCCUS PLUVIALIS EXTRACT 0.0025 A PERFUME Qs A

[0071] The two-phase composition obtained contains raw materials with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin.

[0072] Example 2: evaluation of the composition according to the invention

[0073] The two-phase composition according to the invention of example 1 was tested. Shaking and stability test:

[0074] A stirring and stability over time test was carried out in order to study the stability of the two-phase composition after stirring.

[0075] The stability of the two-phase composition after stirring proved to be excellent: no disturbance at the interface was visible, no formation of volute after demixing of the two phases. Consumer test:

[0076] A consumer test was carried out in order to study the texture and sensoriality of the two-phase composition.

[0077] For 4 weeks, 62 women applied the two-phase composition to their skin. They then determined whether the composition had a non-greasy / non-oily or light finish on the skin after application, by responding either "agree" or "somewhat agree".

[0078] [Tables3] Result on the skin after application of the two-phase composition of example 1 “Agree” response rate Non-oily / non-greasy finish on the skin 98.4% Light finish on the skin 98.4%

[0079] Overall, 98.4% of women found the texture not greasy / oily after application, and the skin finish light.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition comprising a separate aqueous phase and an oily phase, characterized in that the oily phase comprises squalane, dicaprylyl ether and a mixture of linear or branched alkanes having from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, said composition being substantially free of surfactants and silicones.

2.

3. Composition according to claim 1, which is a two-phase composition. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises the aqueous phase and the oily phase in a respective weight ratio of between 70:30 and 98:2, preferably between 75:25 and 95:

5.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises the aqueous phase and the oily phase in a respective weight ratio of approximately 90:

10.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises from 45% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of oily phase of squalane, preferably from 50% to 75% by weight, preferably from 55% to 70% by weight, preferably from 60% to 70% by weight.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of oily phase of dicaprylyl ether, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, preferably from 13% to 17%.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of oily phase of a mixture of linear or branched alkanes having from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, preferably from 13% to 17%.

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the aqueous phase comprises at least water.

9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the aqueous phase comprises at least one organic solvent soluble or miscible in water at 25°C; preferably the solvent is chosen from alkanols, linear or branched, with a short chain, for example C2-C4, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol; diols or polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-pentadiol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols having 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof.

10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the aqueous phase comprises at least 60% by weight of water relative to the total weight of aqueous phase, preferably at least 70% by weight, preferably between 80% and 98% by weight.

11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises less than 0.5% by weight of surfactants relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight and which comprises less than 1% by weight of silicones relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight; preferably the two-phase composition according to the invention is completely free of surfactants and silicones.

12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one active agent chosen from hydrophilic active agents and lipophilic active agents, preferably from niacinamide, plant extracts, adenosine and vitamins, their precursors or derivatives, preferably at least niacinamide.

13. Process for caring for keratin materials comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 12.

14. Use of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 12, for the care of keratin materials, in particular the skin, mucous membranes and / or hair.