Composition comprising a glycoprotein and a coloring agent.
A hair coloring composition with glycoproteins and dyes addresses issues of uneven dyeing and poor persistence by providing intense, homogeneous color with improved stability and reduced selectivity, enhancing dye penetration and sensory properties.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023006948
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-06-30
- Publication Date
- 2025-01-03
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair coloring compositions using oxidation dyes often result in unsatisfactory dyeing power, limited color range, uneven color distribution, and poor tenacity against external agents like light and shampoos, with high selectivity differences between hair roots and tips.
A composition comprising glycoproteins and oxidation dyes, direct dyes, or pigments, which provides intense, homogeneous coloration with improved persistence and reduced selectivity, using glycoproteins like Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract to enhance dye penetration and stability.
The composition achieves powerful, intense, and non-selective coloration with good persistence and sensory properties, maintaining fiber integrity and reducing color variation along the hair shaft.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Composition comprising a glycoprotein and a coloring agent.
[0001] The invention relates to a composition for treating hair comprising at least one glycoprotein and at least one coloring agent.
[0002] The invention also relates to a process for coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair, using this composition.
[0003] The invention finally relates to the use of such a composition for coloring keratin fibers, and in particular hair.
[0004] For a long time, many people have been looking to change the color of their hair, and in particular to hide their gray hair.
[0005] There are essentially three types of hair coloring process: a) so-called permanent coloring, the function of which is to bring about a significant modification of the natural color and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate into the hair fiber and form the dye by a process of oxidative condensation; b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct coloring, which does not involve the oxidative condensation process and is resistant to 4 or 5 shampoos; consists of dyeing keratin fibers with dye compositions containing direct dyes; c) temporary coloring which results in a change in the natural color of the hair which lasts from one shampoo to the next and which serves to enhance or correct a shade already obtained. It can also be likened to a “makeup” process.
[0006] It is thus known to dye keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, to obtain so-called permanent colorations with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, in particular oxidation bases, such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols or heterocyclic compounds such as pyrazoles, pyrazolinones or pyrazolo-pyridines. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to colored compounds by an oxidative condensation process.
[0007] It is also possible to vary the shades obtained with these oxidation bases by combining them with couplers or color modifiers. The variety of molecules used in the oxidation bases and couplers allows a rich palette of colors to be obtained.
[0008] However, the implementation of these dye compositions can present a certain number of drawbacks.
[0009] Indeed, after application to keratin fibers, the tinctorial power obtained may not be entirely satisfactory, or even weak, and lead to a restricted range of colors.
[0010] The colorations may also not be sufficiently tenacious against external agents such as light, shampoos, perspiration and may also be too selective, that is to say that the difference in coloration is too great along the same keratin fiber which is differently sensitized between its tip and its root.
[0011] Thus, there is a real need to provide a composition for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, which is more environmentally friendly, without degradation of the cosmetic properties, in particular which is capable of leading to good color build-up, intensity and chromaticity, while having low selectivity and good tenacity, in particular good persistence to shampooing and which is capable of leading to good dyeing performance, even after a storage period, while having good qualities of use and retaining good sensory performance, in particular in terms of shine, ease of combing and softness to the touch of keratin fibers such as hair.
[0012] These and other objectives are achieved by the present invention, which therefore relates to a composition comprising: - at least one glycoprotein; and - at least one coloring agent chosen from among oxidation dyes, direct dyes, pigments and their mixtures.
[0013] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a composition for coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair.
[0014] The composition according to the invention makes it possible in particular to produce powerful, intense and non-selective chromatic colorations, that is to say colorations which are homogeneous along the fiber.
[0015] The composition according to the invention has improved persistence to shampoos, as well as good stability over time, in particular little change, or even no change, in its viscosity during storage.
[0016] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to achieve good cosmeticity, particularly in terms of shine, softness, suppleness, a more natural feel, while preserving the integrity of the fiber.
[0017] The invention also relates to a method of coloring hair from the composition of the invention.
[0018] The invention also relates to a kit comprising in a first compartment a composition as defined above and in a second compartment an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.
[0019] By "chemical oxidizing agent" according to the invention, we mean an oxidizing agent other than oxygen from the air.
[0020] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow.
[0021] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.
[0022] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”. Glycoprotein
[0023] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one glycoprotein.
[0024] By "glycoprotein" is meant one or more oligosaccharides covalently linked to a polypeptide chain by the -OH function of the Serine and Threonine residues (O-linked) or by the amide function of an Asparagine residue (N-linked).
[0025] By “oligosaccharides” we mean short polymers consisting of several monosaccharide units, identical or different, linked together by glycosidic bonds.
[0026] Preferably, the glycoproteins of the invention comprise from 1 to 70% by weight of oligosaccharides, more preferably from 2 to 50% by weight, even more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the glycoprotein.
[0027] According to a preferred embodiment, the glycoprotein(s) according to the invention is (or are) produced from a microorganism, more preferably extracted from a bacterium, even more preferably from a gram-negative bacterium.
[0028] Preferably, the glycoprotein according to the invention is obtained by culturing the bacterial strain Pseudoalteromonas Antarctica NF3.
[0029] For example, we can cite the compound known under the INCI name Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, sold under the trade name ANTARCTICINE® by the company Lipotec.
[0030] The total content of the glycoprotein(s) varies from 0.001 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Coloring agent
[0031] The composition according to the invention comprises one (or more) coloring agent(s), selected from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, pigments and their mixtures.
[0032] Preferably, the composition comprises one (or more) oxidation dye(s).
[0033] Oxidation dyes can be chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally associated with one or more couplers.
[0034] Oxidation base
[0035] Oxidation bases may be present in the form of salts, solvates and / or solvates of salts.
[0036] The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0037] Furthermore, the solvates of the oxidation bases represent more particularly the hydrates of said oxidation bases and / or the association of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0038] By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and corresponding addition salts, solvates, solvates of salts and their mixtures.
[0039] Among the para-phenylenediamines which may be mentioned, there are for example para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N ,N-diethy 1- 3 -methylaniline, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2- [3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(y-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N- ethyl-N-(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P,Y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-l-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine and the addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of their salts.
[0040] Among the above-mentioned para-phenylenediamines, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(γ-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of their salts.
[0041] Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines which may be mentioned are, for example, N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane and the corresponding addition salts, solvates, solvates of salts and their mixtures.
[0042] Among the para-aminophenols which are mentioned, there are for example para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-([3-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol and the addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0043] Among the ortho-aminophenols which may be mentioned are, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvated salts.
[0044] Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned are, for example, pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.
[0045] Among the pyridine derivatives that can be mentioned are the compounds for example described in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0046] Other pyridine oxidation bases which are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples which may be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-[3-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine; 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-l-yl)-3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine; and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0047] More particularly, the oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are chosen from among the 3 aminopyrazolo-[1,5 a]-pyridines and preferably substituted at carbon atom 2 by: a) a (di)(Cl-C6)(alkyl)amino group, said alkyl group possibly being substituted by at least one hydroxy, amino, imidazolium group; (b) a heterocycloalkyl group containing 5 to 7 members and 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally cationic, optionally substituted by one or more groups (Cl-C6)alkyl, such as a di(Cl-C4)alkylpiperazinium group; or c) a (Cl-C6)alkoxy group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups such as a [3-hydroxyalkoxy] group and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0048] Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triamino-pyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
[0049] Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, l-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-([3-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-hydroxymethyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-Diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-1-methylpyrazole and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts. 4,5-diamino-1-([3-methoxyethyl)pyrazole may also be used.
[0050] A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or a corresponding salt, solvated and / or salt solvated.
[0051] Pyrazole derivatives which may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-diliydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1 -yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1 -yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one their salts, their solvates and / or solvates of their salts. ,
[0052] Preferably, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and / or a corresponding salt, solvated and / or salt-solvated, will be used.
[0053] Preferably, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or 2-[3-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and / or a corresponding salt, solvated and / or salt solvated will be used as heterocyclic bases.
[0054] Preferably, the oxidation base(s) are chosen from among para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures; more preferably from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures.
[0055] When the composition comprises at least one oxidation base, preferably the oxidation base(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5%, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0056] Oxidation coupler
[0057] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more forward couplers carefully chosen from those traditionally used in the coloring of keratin fibers.
[0058] The oxidation dye(s) may also be chosen from one or more couplers, which may be chosen from the couplers conventionally used for coloring keratin fibers.
[0059] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more couplers.
[0060] Among the couplers useful according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents as well as the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of their salts.
[0061] Mention may be made, for example, of 6-hydroxy benzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(B-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(B-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-bis(B-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, lH-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, l-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b]-l,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-l,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol,3-Aminophenol, 3-Amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts, solvates, solvates of the salts, and the corresponding mixtures.
[0062] In general, the addition salts of the couplers which can be used in the context of the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates and addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0063] Furthermore, the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and / or the association of these couplers with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0064] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts.
[0065] When the composition includes one or more oxidation couplers, the total content of the coupler(s) present in the composition according to the invention varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0066] When they are present, the total content of the oxidation dyes preferably varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0067] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more synthetic or natural direct dyes, chosen from anionic and non-ionic species, preferably cationic or non-ionic species, either as sole dyes or in addition to the oxidation dye(s).
[0068] Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.
[0069] When present, the direct dye(s) represent more particularly 0.001% to 10% by weight and preferably 0.005% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
[0070] Preferably, the colouring agent(s) are chosen from pigments.
[0071] By "pigment" is meant all pigments providing color to keratin materials. Their solubility in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01% by weight.
[0072] The pigments which can be used are in particular chosen from organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, in particular those which are described in the Kirk-Othmer encyclopedia of chemical technology and in the Ullmann encyclopedia of industrial chemistry.
[0073] The pigments may for example be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, special effect pigments such as mother-of-pearl or glitter, and mixtures thereof.
[0074] The pigment may be a mineral pigment. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium oxide.
[0075] The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, qui-nacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.
[0076] The organic pigment can also be a lake.
[0077] The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is gener generally between 5 nm and 200 qm, preferably between 7 nm and 80 qm, and more preferably between 10 nm and 50 qm.
[0078] When they are present, the pigments represent more particularly 0.001% to 10% by weight and preferably 0.005% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
[0079] Preferably, the total content of the coloring agents varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0080] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition and, similarly, the ready-to-use composition contains at least one colorant and preferably at least one oxidation colorant as defined above. Hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives
[0081] The composition according to the invention may further comprise hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives.
[0082] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives.
[0083] In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives" covers in particular the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of formula
[0084] [Chem.l]
[0085] Hyaluronic acid belongs to the family of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs).
[0086] GAGs are linear chains composed of the repetition of a basic diholoside always containing a hexosamine (glucosamine or galactosamine) and another ose (glucuronic acid, iduronic acid or galactose). Glucosamine is either N-sulfated or N-acetylated. In contrast, galactosamine is always N-acetylated. In addition, there may be sulfates O-linked to hexosamine, uronic acid and galactose.
[0087] It is a polysaccharide of disaccharides themselves composed of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.
[0088] According to a particular embodiment, the term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" in the context of the present invention includes the linear polymer comprising the polymeric unit described above, in a chain of alternating glycosidic bonds [3(1,4) and [3(1,3)], having a molecular weight (MW) that can vary between 380 and 13,000,000 daltons. This molecular weight depends largely on the source of the hyaluronic acid and / or the preparation methods.
[0089] Thus, the term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” includes all of the fractions or subunits of hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight in particular included in the molecular weight range mentioned above.
[0090] Hyaluronic acid derivatives include, in particular, hyaluronic acid salts, hyaluronic acid hydrolysates, quaternized hyaluronic acid derivatives and their salts, and acetylated hyaluronic acid derivatives and their mixtures.
[0091] As hyaluronic acid salts, mention may in particular be made of potassium hyaluronate and sodium hyaluronate.
[0092] As quaternized hyaluronic acid derivatives, we mean cationic hyaluronic acid comprising at least one quaternary ammonium and / or one of its salts.
[0093] Preferably, the compound with the INCI name hydroxypropyl-trimonium hyaluronate will be used.
[0094] As acetylated hyaluronic acid derivatives, mention may in particular be made of the compound with the INCI name Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
[0095] Hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives is preferably chosen from hyaluronic acid salts and their mixtures, and more preferably sodium hyaluronate.
[0096] Hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives may be present in the composition according to the present invention in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.003 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.008 to 1% by weight, even better still from 0.01 to 0.5%, even better still from 0.02 to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0097] According to a particular embodiment, the total content of hyaluronic acid salts, preferably sodium hyaluronate, varies preferably from 0.001 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.003 to 5% by weight, better from 0.008 to 1% by weight, even better from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, even better from 0.02 to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Alkaline agent
[0098] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one agent alkaline, mineral, organic or hybrid and their mixtures.
[0099] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms “alkaline agent” or “alkalizing agent” are used interchangeably.
[0100] The mineral alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonia, (bi)carbonates of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals or ammonium, phosphates of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof, better still ammonium bicarbonate.
[0101] The organic alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3 diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.
[0102] By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.
[0103] Particularly suitable for carrying out the invention are organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, in C1-C4.
[0104] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylaminomethane and mixtures thereof.
[0105] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, omithine, citrulline.
[0106] The organic amine can also be chosen from heterocyclic type organic amines.
[0107] The alkaline agent(s) useful according to the invention is (are) preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonia, (bi)carbonates such as Na, K, Mg, Ca (bi)carbonates, ammonium (bi)carbonates, silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof, more preferably from alkanolamines, ammonia, ammonium (bi)carbonates and mixtures thereof, better still from alkalonamines, even better still, monoethanolamine.
[0108] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of ammonia.
[0109] The total content of the alkaline agent(s) preferably varies from 0.01 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, better still from 0.08 to 15% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0110] According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of alkanolamine, preferably monoethanolamine, preferably varies from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.08 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.5 to 5% relative to the total weight of the composition; Surfactants
[0111] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more surfactants.
[0112] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more surfactants.
[0113] These may be chosen from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and / or mixtures thereof.
[0114] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants.
[0115] As examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-alkyl(Cl-C4)-N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and acids polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D-galactoside-uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl amidoether-carboxylic acids;fatty acid salts, and the corresponding unsalified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise stated) generally having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally denoting a phenyl group.;
[0116] When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
[0117] The anionic surfactants possibly present may be surfactants soft anionic, i.e. without sulfate function.
[0118] As regards mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and their salts, as well as their mixtures: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; alkyl D-galactoside uronic acids; acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; and alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters.
[0119] In particular, it is possible to use polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids such as, for example, lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4,5 EO) marketed, for example, under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO.
[0120] The anionic surfactants possibly present may be chosen from carboxylic acids comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, also called fatty acids, possibly in salified form.
[0121] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty acid” means an acid comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, such as alkyl or alkenyl, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0122] The carboxylic acids comprising at least 6 carbon atoms (or fatty acids) according to the invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated; in particular, they are not (poly)oxyethylenated nor (poly)oxypropylenated.
[0123] They preferably have the structure R-COOH in which R designates an alkyl or alkenyl group, linear or branched, at C7-C29, preferably at C9-C23, better at C9-Ci7.
[0124] Preferably, the fatty acid according to the invention is chosen from linear fatty acids, better from linear unsaturated fatty acids, in Ci0-C22, in particular in Ci0-Ci8 (R is a linear alkenyl in C9-C23, or even in C9-C[7].
[0125] Examples include oleic, linoleic, linolenic, undecylenic acids, and mixtures thereof. Oleic acid is preferred.
[0126] Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, fatty acids are preferred.
[0127] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.
[0128] Examples of non-ionic surfactants include the following compounds, alone or in mixtures: - oxyalkylenated alkyl(C8-C24)phenols; - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, they preferably contain one or two fatty chains; - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxy-alkylenated; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated; - esters of fatty acids and sucrose, - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylenated units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucoside esters, - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not; - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates; - derivatives of A^-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and A^-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine; - amine oxides.
[0129] Preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, preferentially chosen from fatty acids, ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylated C8-C30 sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides and mixtures thereof.
[0130] More preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from fatty acids, ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides and mixtures thereof, even better from oleic acid, coco-glucoside, cetearyl glucoside and mixtures thereof.
[0131] When the composition comprises one or more surfactants, preferably, the total content of surfactant(s) in the composition preferably varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 8% by weight, even better still from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0132] When the composition comprises one or more surfactants chosen from fatty acids, preferably, the total content of fatty acids in the composition preferably varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 8% by weight, even better still from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0133] When the composition comprises one or more surfactants chosen from (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, preferably, the total content of (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides in the composition preferably varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 8% by weight, even better still from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty substances other than fatty acids
[0134] The composition according to the invention may, in addition, comprise one or more fats different from fatty acids.
[0135] The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). Its structure includes at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. Furthermore, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), petrolatum, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0136] The fatty substances which can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0137] Preferably, the fatty substances useful according to the invention are non-silicone.
[0138] The term "non-siliconized fat" means a fat that does not contain Si-O bonds and the term "siliconized fat" means a fat that contains at least one Si-O bond.
[0139] The fatty substances useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. Liquid fatty substance is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa) and solid fatty substance is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).
[0140] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3; 1999 standard. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).
[0141] More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) may be chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides and mixtures thereof.
[0142] It is recalled that the alcohols and fatty esters more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds can include one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0143] By way of example, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms may be chosen from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, the latter may be linear, branched, optionally cyclic, and preferably saturated. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof.
[0144] The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms may also be chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or vaseline oils (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, and mixtures thereof.
[0145] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms can also be selected from mixtures of alkanes having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, more particularly from 15 to 28 carbon atoms, we can cite mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC, Emogreen L15 marketed by SEPPIC, more particularly Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC.
[0146] Perhydrosqualene can be cited as an example of hydrocarbon oils of animal origin.
[0147] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stea-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil (shea olein), and mixtures thereof.
[0148] Liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, or li- noleic, and mixtures thereof. Oleic alcohol will preferably be used.
[0149] With regard to liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, one may mention in particular the esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic acids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
[0150] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or the acid is branched.
[0151] Among the monoesters, the following may be mentioned: dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as 2-octyldodecyl isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.
[0152] It is also possible to use esters of C4 to C22 di or tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.
[0153] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.
[0154] The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars of C6 to C30 fatty acids, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides described above.
[0155] Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkylated ones, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.
[0156] The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0157] The esters can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.
[0158] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate.
[0159] More particularly, mono- and di-esters are used, and in particular mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.
[0160] One can cite as an example the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0161] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.
[0162] According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty substances other than fatty acids are chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 6 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters and their mixtures, more preferably from liquid fatty alcohols, vegetable oils and their mixtures, better still from liquid fatty alcohols.
[0163] Preferably, the liquid fat or fats other than fatty acids are chosen from among liquid fatty alcohols, in particular oleic alcohol.
[0164] Solid fats preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1.
[0165] The solid fat(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.
[0166] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and comprising at minus one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.
[0167] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used can be chosen from, alone or in a mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); ara-chidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0168] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0169] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol.
[0170] Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
[0171] A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. Generally speaking, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or diffuse light, giving the composition comprising them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained, detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).
[0172] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.
[0173] Mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, in particular of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.
[0174] We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in C2o to C60, such as Microwax HW.
[0175] We can also mention PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.
[0176] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, from C8 to C32. Among these, mention may in particular be made of isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate, in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.
[0177] It is also possible to use waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.
[0178] As wax, it is also possible to use a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.
[0179] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; examples include carnauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes made from a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes made from a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company MICRO POWDERS and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS.
[0180] Waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
[0181] Solid fats are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols and their mixtures, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixtures such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0182] Butters can also be used.
[0183] For the purposes of this invention, "butter" (also referred to as "pasty fat") means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, comprising, at a temperature of 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a melting point above 25°C and a melting point below 60°C.
[0184] Preferably the particular butter(s) are of vegetable origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).
[0185] We can cite more particularly shea butter, Nilotica Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkiï), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkiï), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipé butter, Madhuca butter or Bassia Madhuca longifolia, mowrah butter (Madhuca Eatifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (As-trocaryum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), Macadamia butter (Macadamia Ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) and cocoa butter sunflower butter.
[0186] Shea butter is an example of a preferred butter.
[0187] As is known, shea butter is extracted from the fruits (also called "almonds" or "nuts") of the Butyrospemim Parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45 and 55% fat, which is generally extracted and refined.
[0188] According to another preferred embodiment, the fatty substances other than the fatty acids useful according to the invention are chosen from solid fatty substances, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols.
[0189] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fat other than fatty acids, preferably chosen from solid fats, liquid fats and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, liquid esters of monoacid and monoalcohol and mixtures thereof, even more preferably from solid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof, even better chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol and mixtures thereof.
[0190] According to another preferred embodiment, the fat(s) other than fatty acids is (or are) selected from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from solid fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, mineral oil and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from cetearyl alcohol, mixtures of alkanes having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, more particularly from 15 to 28 carbon atoms, mineral oil and mixtures thereof.
[0191] The total content of the fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids preferably varies from 0.5 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, and better still from 5 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (8.6% in the ready-to-use composition).
[0192] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fats other than fatty acids, the total content of the solid fat(s) other than fatty acids preferably ranging from 0.5 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, and better from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition
[0193] In another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty substances other than fatty acids, the total content of the liquid fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids preferably varying, from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and better still from 0.8 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0194] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fats other than fatty acids, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols and one or more liquid fats other than fatty acids, preferably chosen from liquid fatty alcohols. Sequestrants
[0195] The composition according to the invention may include at least one sequestering (or chelating) agent.
[0196] The definition of a “sequestering agent” (or “chelating agent”) is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or mixture of compounds capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestering or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, i.e. it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (formation of a cycle including the metal ion).
[0197] A sequestering (or chelating) agent generally comprises at least two electron donor atoms which allow the formation of bonds with the metal ion.
[0198] In the context of the present invention, the sequestering agent(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, their salts and derivatives.
[0199] The salts are in particular salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium and substituted ammonium.
[0200] According to the present invention, the sequestering agents are preferably chosen from diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA) and its salts, diethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, etidronic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and mixtures thereof.
[0201] More preferably, the sequestering agent(s) are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and their mixtures.
[0202] Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts are preferred, and in particular the sodium or potassium salts.
[0203] When the composition includes one or more sequestrants, the total content of the sequestrant(s) varies preferably from 0.001 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight, better from 0.01 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Thickening polymers
[0204] The composition according to the invention may, in addition, comprise at least one thickening polymer, preferably chosen from polysaccharides, more preferably from anionic polysaccharides.
[0205] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more thickening polymer(s), preferably chosen from polysaccharides, more preferably from anionic polysaccharides.
[0206] By "polysaccharides" is meant polymers which contain at least 11 monosaccharide units. Preferably, the polysaccharides of the invention contain between 20 and 100,000 monosaccharide units.
[0207] The anionic polysaccharides according to the invention comprise one or more anionic or anionizable groups, and do not comprise a cationic or cationizable group.
[0208] The anionic polysaccharides useful according to the invention may be chosen from those derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate.
[0209] Anionic polysaccharides can be natural or synthetic.
[0210] According to a preferred embodiment, the anionic polysaccharides useful in the composition according to the invention are selected from native gums such as: • exudates of trees or shrubs including: gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); gum ghatti (polymer of arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); gum karaya (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); gum tragacanth (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); • gums derived from algae such as: alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); • microbial gums such as: xanthan gums (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); gellan gums (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid).
[0211] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “microbial gums” means substances synthesized by fermentation of sugars by microorganisms.
[0212] According to a preferred embodiment, the anionic polysaccharides useful in the composition according to the invention are chosen from anionic gums, better still, from anionic microbial gums, more preferably from gums of xanthan gum.
[0213] When present, the total content of thickening polymers preferably varies from 0.005% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0214] When they are present, the total content of anionic polysaccharides as defined above preferably varies from 0.005% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0215] When the composition comprises them, the total content of anionic microbial gums as defined above preferably varies from 0.005% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0216] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises: - at least one glycoprotein; - at least one coloring agent chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, pigments and their mixtures, preferably at least one oxidation dye; - at least one compound chosen from hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives and their mixtures; - at least one alkaline agent; - at least one surfactant; - at least one fatty substance other than fatty acids. Solvents
[0217] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one organic solvent.
[0218] As organic solvent, examples that may be mentioned are linear or branched C2 to C4 alkanols, such as ethanol, propanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, 1,3-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0219] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) is (are) chosen from polyols, more preferably chosen from glycerol, propane-1,3-diol and their mixtures.
[0220] The organic solvent(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 1 to 25% by weight, better still from 2 to 20% by weight, even better still from 4 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0221] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention is preferably a composition aqueous. Preferably, the composition comprises water in an amount greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, better greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additives
[0222] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more additives, different from the compounds previously described and among which may be mentioned cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric polymers or their mixtures different from the thickening polymers as described previously, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizing agents, solubilizing agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes.
[0223] The above additives may generally be present in an amount of between 0 and 20% by weight for each of them, relative to the total weight of the ready-to-use composition.
[0224] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise chemical oxidizing agents. The composition may be intended to be mixed with an oxidizing composition.
[0225] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise a cationic polymer.
[0226] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises one or more chemical oxidants as described below. According to this embodiment, the composition is a ready-to-use composition.
[0227] Preferably, the pH of the ready-to-use composition is between 8 and 11, preferably between 9 and 10.5.
[0228] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise chemical oxidizing agents. According to this embodiment, the composition is preferably intended to be mixed with one or more chemical oxidizing agent(s).
[0229] Preferably, the pH of the composition not containing a chemical oxidizing agent is between 8 and 13, preferably between 9 and 12.
[0230] According to another particular embodiment, the pH of the composition not containing a chemical oxidizing agent is between 7 and 10 and the pH of the ready-to-use composition is between 6 and 9. Process
[0231] The present invention also relates to a process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, which comprises the application to said keratin fibers of an effective amount of a composition as defined above, in the presence of an oxidizing agent.
[0232] The composition can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers. At the end of the treatment, the keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally undergo washing with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.
[0233] Preferably, the method according to the invention comprises a step of mixing the composition described above which does not comprise a chemical oxidizing agent with an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent. This mixing step is preferably carried out at the time of use, just before applying the composition resulting from the mixture to the hair.
[0234] According to this preferred embodiment, at the time of use, the composition according to the invention is derived from the mixture of at least two compositions: a composition comprising: - at least one glycoprotein; - at least one coloring agent chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, pigments and their mixtures; and an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
[0235] In a preferred embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, according to the invention comprises the step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition resulting from the mixture, at the time of use, of at least two compositions: (a) a composition comprising: - at least one glycoprotein; - at least one coloring agent, chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, pigments and their mixtures, preferably at least one oxidation dye; - at least one compound chosen from hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives and their mixtures; - at least one alkaline agent; - at least one surfactant; - at least one fat other than fatty acids; and b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
[0236] More particularly, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors and alkali metal or alkaline-metal percarbonates. earthy materials and their mixtures. Preferably, the oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide.
[0237] The oxidizing composition is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.
[0238] It may also comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from those listed above; the latter representing more particularly, when present, from 0.01 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition, and preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight of the oxidizing composition.
[0239] The oxidizing composition also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.
[0240] In addition, the oxidizing composition may comprise fatty substances such as those described above, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms and their mixtures, surfactants, polymers.
[0241] Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition, when aqueous, is less than 7.
[0242] Preferably, the oxidizing composition comprises hydrogen peroxide as oxidizing agent, in aqueous solution, the concentration of which varies, more particularly, from 0.1 to 50%, more particularly between 0.5 and 20%, and even more preferably between 1 and 15% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition. Kit
[0243] Another subject of the invention is a device with several compartments, preferably two compartments, for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising at least a first compartment containing the coloring composition according to the invention and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition as described above.
[0244] The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, accompanied, optionally, by appropriate application means, identical or different, such as brushes, brushes or sponges.
[0245] The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means for delivering the desired mixture to the hair, for example such as the devices described in patent FR 2586913.
[0246] The present invention finally relates to the use of a composition as described above for coloring keratin fibers, and in particular hair.
[0247] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples
[0248] In the following examples, all quantities are indicated as a percentage by mass of active ingredient (AI) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated). Compositions
[0249] Coloring compositions A and B were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (% active material): Coloring compositions A and B
[0250] [Tables 1] A (invention) B (comparative) PSEUDOALTEROMONAS FERMENT EXTRACT 0.05 - OLEIC ACID 2.7 2.7 AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE 4.57 4.57 ETHANOLAMINE 0.63 0.63 2-AMINO-3-HYDROXYPYRID INE 0.04 0.04 HYDROXYBENZOMORPHOLI NE 0.30 0.30 HYDROXYETHYL-P-PHENYL ENEDIAMINE SULFATE 0.13 0.13 m-AMINOPHENOL 0.1 0.1 EDTA 0.20 0.20 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 16.20 16.20 OLEYL ALCOHOL 2.70 2.70 NON-IONIC SURFACTANT 3.60 3.60 ANTIOXIDANT 0.91 0.91 HYDROXYETHYL-3,4-METH YLENEDIOXYANILINE HCL 0.14 0.14 TOLUENE-2,5-DIAMINE 0.33 0.33 WATER Qs 100 Qs 100
[0251] At the time of use, each of the colour compositions A and B are mixed with 1 times its weight of oxidant O. Each of the mixtures is then applied to a strand of hair that is 90% permed white (BP) and natural white (BN) at a rate of 5g of mixture / g of hair.
[0252] After 35 minutes of exposure on a thermostatically controlled plate at 27°C, the hair is rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo and dried. Results
[0253] The colorimetric measurements were carried out using a KONICA MINOLTA-3600 spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system. a) Selectivity
[0254] Color selectivity is the variation in color between natural hair and permed hair. Natural hair is representative of the nature of the hair at the root, while permed hair is representative of the nature of the hair at the tip.
[0255] Selectivity is measured by:
[0256] AE, which is the color variation between natural hair and permanent hair, is obtained from the formula:
[0257] Where L* represents the intensity a* and b*, the chromaticity of natural colored hair and Lo* represents the intensity and a0* and b0* the chromaticity of permed colored hair. The lower the value of AE, the lower the selectivity and the more uniform the coloring along the hair.
[0258] [Tables2] Hair type L* a* b* AE A+O (invention) BN 26.5 2.4 9.3 5.3 BP 22.2 2.5 6.2 B+O (comparative) BN 26.5 3.0 10.0 7.7 BP 20.5 2.7 5.1
[0259] The locks of hair treated with the A+O mixture according to the invention have a much lower AE value than those treated with the comparative B+O mixture. In other words, the A+O mixture according to the invention makes it possible to obtain locks of hair having better selectivity compared to those treated with the B+O mixtures.
[0260] In addition, the mixture according to the invention makes it possible to obtain good sensory performance. lb) Tenacity
[0261] The persistence of the color is evaluated in the same way. This is the color difference AE (according to the formula above) between the colored strands (BN) before shampooing, then after having undergone 5 shampoos. The lower the AE value, the more the color persists after shampooing.
[0262] [Tables3] Number of L* a* b* AE shampoos 1.5 A+O (invention) 0 26.5 2.4 9.3 5 27.8 2.4 9.6 B+O (comparative) 0 26.5 3.0 10.0 3.6 5 30.0 2.3 9.9
[0263] The hair strands treated with the A+O mixture according to the invention have a much lower AE value than those treated with the comparative B+O mixture.
[0264] In other words, the A+O mixture according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous colored coating on the hair having improved persistence to shampoos compared to those treated with the comparative B+O mixture. lc) Ease of combing and soft touch
[0265] The combability performance, i.e. detangling, and soft feel were evaluated by 5 experts, on moderately sensitized hair (SA20). Each of the 5 experts rated each of the strands, awarding “5 points” to very good properties, “2.5 points” to average performance and “0 points” to poor performance.
[0266] To assess the ease of combing, the expert passes a comb over the strand first with the large teeth and then with the small teeth, going down from the top of the strand towards the tips, in order to feel the ease of passing the comb over the strand of hair.
[0267] Below are the scores given by the experts:
[0268] [Tables4] Combing A+O (Invention) B+O (Comparative) Expert 1 3.5 3 Expert 2 3.5 3 Expert 3 3 2.5 Expert 4 3.5 3 Expert 5 3.5 3 Average 3.4 2.9
[0269] 100% of the experts (5 out of 5) judged that the A+O mixture according to the invention allowed to obtain better combing ease performance compared to the com- Comparative position B not including Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract.
[0270] To assess the soft touch, the expert grasps the strand between the thumb and index finger and slides his fingers along the strand from the top to the tips. He assesses whether the hair is soft, whether it has no roughness, that is, whether it does not catch the fingers.
[0271] [Tables5] Soft touch A+O (Invention) B+O (Comparative) Expert 1 3.5 3 Expert 2 3.5 3 Expert 3 3.5 2.5 Expert 4 3 2.5 Expert 5 3.5 3 Average 3.4 2.8
[0272] 100% of the experts (5 out of 5) judged that the A+O mixture according to the invention allowed to achieve better softness of touch performance compared to the comparative B+O blend not including Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract.
Claims
Claims
1. Composition comprising: - at least one glycoprotein; - at least one coloring agent chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, pigments and mixtures thereof.
2. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, in an aqueous medium: - at least one glycoprotein; - at least one coloring agent chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, pigments and their mixtures; and - optionally an alkaline agent.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the glycoprotein(s) is (or are) produced from a microorganism, preferably from a bacterium.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the glycoprotein(s) is (or are) obtained by culturing the bacterial strain Pseudoalteromonas Antarctica NF3 such as Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of one or more glycoproteins ranges from 0.001 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the coloring agent(s) chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, pigments and mixtures thereof, is (or are) chosen from oxidation dyes, preferably from oxidation bases optionally associated with one or more couplers.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one compound chosen from hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives and their mixtures, preferably chosen from hyaluronic acid salts, hyaluronic acid hydrolysates, quaternized hyaluronic acid derivatives and their salts and acetylated hyaluronic acid derivatives and their mixtures, preferably chosen from hyaluronic acid salts and their mixtures, more preferably sodium hyaluronate.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one alkaline agent, preferably chosen from: alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonia, (bi)carbonates such as Na, K, Mg, Ca (bi)carbonates, ammonium (bi)carbonates, silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof, more preferably among alkanolamines, ammonia, ammonium (bi)carbonates and mixtures thereof and mixtures thereof.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one surfactant, the surfactant(s) preferably being chosen from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, preferentially chosen from fatty acids, ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides and mixtures thereof, better still chosen from fatty acids, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one fatty substance other than fatty acids, preferably chosen from solid fatty substances, liquid fatty substances and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, liquid esters of monoacid and monoalcohol and mixtures thereof, even more preferably from solid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof, even better chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one sequestering agent, preferably chosen from diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA) and its salts, diethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, etidronic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and their mixtures, more preferably, from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and their mixtures.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one thickening polymer, preferably chosen from polysaccharides, more preferably from anionic polysaccharides, better still from anionic microbial gums, more preferably from xanthan gums.
13. A composition according to any preceding claim, not comprising a chemical oxidizing agent.
14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
15. Process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the application to the keratin fibers of the composition as defined according to claim 14.
16. A method according to claim 15 comprising applying to the fibers of the mixture: a) a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13. b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
17. Multi-compartment device, preferably two compartments, for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 13 and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
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