A cosmetic composition comprising at least one alkanolamine, at least one amino acid, and at least one hydroxide of an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one alkanolamine, at least one compound selected from amino acids and their derivatives, and at least one hydroxide of an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium compound. The invention also relates to a method for smoothing / straightening keratin fibers, particularly hair, using the composition of the invention. The invention further relates to the use of the composition for smoothing / straightening keratin fibers, particularly hair.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising at least one alkanolamine, at least one amino acid, and at least one alkali or alkaline-earth metal or ammonium hydroxide

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one alkanolamine, at least one compound chosen from amino acids and their derivatives, and at least one alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxide.

[0002] The invention also relates to a process for smoothing / straightening keratin fibers, in particular hair, using the composition of the invention.

[0003] The invention further relates to the use of the composition for smoothing / straightening keratin fibers, in particular hair.

[0004] In the hair sector, consumers want to have compositions that allow them to make a temporary change to their hair, while aiming for a good hold of the effect achieved. In general, we want the change to persist after shampooing for at least 15 days, or even longer depending on the nature of the change.

[0005] Heat treatments are generally used to modify the shape of the hair, in a lasting way. These treatments allow a visual modification of the appearance of the hairstyle, combining a reduction in the degree of frizz, a reduction in the overall volume of the hair, a reduction in frizz, a gain in discipline, a smoother visual appearance, a substantial gain in shine, resistance to humidity and heat to maintain the hairstyle all day long.

[0006] Furthermore, this type of treatment has the advantage of facilitating daily hair care, with the use of fewer care products, in particular rinse-out treatments such as conditioners or masks, or leave-in treatments such as serums, treatment creams or balms, disciplining mousses. Hair drying is made easier, with a significantly shorter blow-drying time and a reduction in the daily use of flat clips, both in time and intensity. This thus makes it possible to limit the risks of damage to the hair by combined factors of mechanical and thermal stress.

[0007] Several technologies are combined with these heat treatments. A first technology is based on the use of compositions based on thiolated reducers. These technologies require strict compliance with the application conditions recommended by the suppliers, particularly in terms of quantity and pause time. In addition, they may be contraindicated on overly sensitized hair and may not be compatible with the same-day application of other treatments such as coloring or bleaching. They are also smelly.

[0008] Another technology is based on the use of acid-based compositions, and in particular on the use of glyoxylic acid. Thus, application WO2011 / 104282 has proposed a new method for semi-permanently straightening hair, consisting of applying an alphaketoacid solution to the hair for 15 to 120 minutes, then drying and finally straightening the hair with an iron at a temperature of approximately 200°C. The alphaketoacid used is preferably glyoxylic acid.

[0009] However, it has been found that glyoxylic acid may not be well tolerated, particularly when the scalp is sensitive and / or irritated. Its volatility, amplified by the use of heat from the iron, may also be problematic. Furthermore, the compositions of the prior art may damage the hair and / or alter its color.

[0010] Treatments have also been proposed using a composition comprising a base combined with a heat treatment to straighten the hair. Such treatments make it possible to obtain good relaxation of the curls but can lead to alterations of the hair fiber. Document EP1837010 describes in particular a straightening / straightening method using a composition comprising soda and a heat treatment. Document WO2007 / 144707 describes a straightening / straightening method using a composition comprising a non-hydroxylated base such as monoethanolamine, ethylenediamine, combined with a heat treatment. Document WO2009 / 117344 also describes a straightening / straightening method using a composition comprising a non-hydroxylated base and a protein denaturant combined with a heat treatment.

[0011] To limit the alterations of hair fibers, it has also been proposed to use compositions comprising weak acids at alkaline pH combined with a heat treatment. Document WO2010 / 049434 describes, for example, a smoothing / straightening process in which a composition comprising a dicarboxylic acid such as maleic acid and a heat treatment is applied. Such treatments are not always satisfactory in terms of results and / or persistence.

[0012] There is still a need to develop compositions, in particular for smoothing / straightening keratin fibers, which make it possible to smooth / straighten and / or reduce the frizz of the hair in an effective and lasting manner while limiting hair damage.

[0013] Thus, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: i) one or more alkanolamines, ii) one or more compounds chosen from amino acids and their derivatives, and iii) one or more alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium, in which the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of compounds chosen from amino acids and their derivatives is greater than 1.

[0014] The composition of the invention makes it possible to provide relaxation of the curls, that is to say a straightening of the keratin fibers, in an effective and lasting manner, the effect being persistent after shampooing and up to several weeks after treatment.

[0015] The composition of the invention can also be applied to all types of hair, even very sensitized hair, while retaining or even improving the cosmetic qualities of the fiber, such as shine, smooth feel, and ease of styling (reduction in volume and frizz), as well as their natural appearance with loose and light hair, as well as a natural feel.

[0016] The composition according to the invention makes it possible in particular to improve the cosmetic feel of the hair, in particular by making it smoother to the touch.

[0017] Furthermore, the composition of the invention does not give off any unpleasant odor during its use.

[0018] The invention also relates to a process for smoothing / straightening keratin fibers, in particular hair, using the composition of the invention.

[0019] The invention further relates to the use of the composition for smoothing / straightening keratin fibers, in particular hair.

[0020] In the context of the present invention, the term "straightening / straightening" means a process which makes it possible to reduce the level of frizz in the hair; it also generally makes it possible to reduce the volume of the hair. The reduction in the level of frizz can go as far as completely straightening the hair.

[0021] Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.

[0022] In the following the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

[0023] Alkanolamines The composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkanolamine.

[0024] By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.

[0025] Particularly suitable for carrying out the invention are alkanolamines chosen from mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising 1 to 3 hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, in C1-C4.

[0026] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triiso- propanol-amine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane and mixtures thereof.

[0027] Preferably, the alkanolamine is monoethanolamine.

[0028] Preferably, the alkanolamine(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, better still from 3 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0029] Preferably, the alkanolamine(s) chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylaminomethane and mixtures thereof are present in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, better still from 3 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] Preferably, the monoethanolamine is present in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, better still from 3 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0031] Amino acids and their derivatives The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one compound chosen from amino acids and their derivatives.

[0032] The amino acid derivatives can be chosen from their betaine forms, their optical isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their salts, of acid or base, organic or mineral, and their mixtures.

[0033] The amino acid may be chosen from the following amino acids of formula (I) and (II), as well as their betaine forms, their optical isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their salts, of acid or base, organic or mineral: (!) îW Formulas (I) and (II) in which: - R represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl group, preferably linear, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by at least one group chosen from hydroxyl, amino, -C(O)-OH, -S(O)2-OH, -C(O)-O, M+, - S(0)2-0, M+, with M+ representing a cationic counterion such as alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium, - n is 0 or 1.

[0034] In the composition containing them, the amino acid(s) may be found in their non-ionized form (I), (II) or in their ionized or betaine form (I') or (II'):

[0035]

[0036]

[0037]

[0038]

[0039]

[0040] (H) on Formulas in which R represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl group, optionally substituted by a hydroxyl, amino, or carboxylate group, n is 0 or 1. The amino acid(s) or their salt(s) may be chosen from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, carnitine, glutamine, histidine, leucine, isoleucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, hydroxyproline, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, glycine, alanine, serine, beta alanine, taurine, lysine, arginine and their salts, in particular sodium glycinate, sodium alanilate, sodium serinate, lithium beta alaninate, sodium taurate. Preferably the amino acids are chosen from sulfonic amino acids, preferably from those of formula (II), more preferably taurine. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one compound chosen from taurine, as well as its betaine forms, its optical isomers, its solvates such as hydrates, and its salts, of acid or base, organic or mineral, and their mixtures. Taurine, or 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid, is an amino acid with the formula NH2-CH2-CH2-SO3H. Taurine may be present in non-ionized form (II') or in ionized form (II”), as defined above. Preferably, the compound(s) chosen from taurine and its derivatives are chosen among taurine and its salts, in particular sodium taurate, potassium taurate, magnesium taurate, and their mixtures, more preferably taurine.

[0041] Preferably, the compound(s) chosen from amino acids and their derivatives are present in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.75 to 10% by weight, preferentially from 1 to 6% by weight, better still from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] Preferably, the compound(s) chosen from sulfonic amino acids and their derivatives are present in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.75 to 10% by weight, preferentially from 1 to 6% by weight, better still from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] Preferably, the compound(s) chosen from taurine and its derivatives are present in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.75 to 10% by weight, preferentially from 1 to 6% by weight, better still from 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0044] Preferably, taurine, its betaine forms, its optical isomers, its solvates such as hydrates, and its salts, of acid or base, organic or mineral, and their mixtures are present in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.75 to 10% by weight, preferentially from 1 to 6% by weight, better still from 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] Preferably, potassium taurate, sodium taurate, magnesium taurate and taurine, and preferentially taurine, are present in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.75 to 10% by weight, preferentially from 1 to 6% by weight, better still from 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] Alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxides The composition according to the invention further comprises one or more alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxides.

[0047] By alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxide is meant a compound of formula M(OH)x in which M is a metal chosen from alkali or alkaline earth metals and x is equal to 1 or 2.

[0048] The alkali metal hydroxides may in particular be chosen from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0049] The alkaline earth metal hydroxides may in particular be chosen from magnesium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0050] Ammonium hydroxide is the compound of formula NH40H.

[0051] Preferably, the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxide(s) will be used.

[0052] Preferably, the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxide(s) are chosen from alkali metal hydroxides, and mixtures thereof, preferably primarily among sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0053] Preferably, the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxide(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.6 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] Preferably, the alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxide(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.6 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkali metal hydroxide which may be present in a total content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.6 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] Preferably, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof are present in a total content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.6 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] According to the invention, the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of compounds chosen from amino acids and their derivatives is greater than 1.

[0058] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of compounds chosen from amino acids and their derivatives is greater than 1.1, preferably strictly greater than 1.2.

[0059] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of compounds chosen from amino acids and their derivatives is between 1.1 and 5, preferably between 1.2 and 3, better still between 1.3 and 2.

[0060] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of compounds chosen from sulfonic amino acids and their derivatives is strictly greater than 1, preferably strictly greater than 1.1, better still greater than 1.2.

[0061] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of compounds chosen from sulfonic amino acids and their derivatives is between 1.1 and 5, preferably between 1.2 and 3, better still between 1.3 and 2.

[0062] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of compounds chosen from taurine and its derivatives is greater than 1, preferably greater than 1.1, better still greater than 1.2.

[0063] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of compounds chosen from taurine and its derivatives is between 1.1 and 5, preferably between 1.2 and 3, better between 1.3 and 2.

[0064] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of monoethanolamine and the total content of potassium taurate, sodium taurate, magnesium taurate, taurine and their mixtures is greater than 1, preferably greater than 1.1, better still greater than 1.2.

[0065] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of monoethanolamine and the total content of potassium taurate, sodium taurate, magnesium taurate, taurine and their mixtures is between 1.1 and 5, preferably between 1.2 and 3, better still between 1.3 and 2.

[0066] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total monoethanolamine content and the total taurine content is greater than 1, preferably greater than 1.1, better still greater than 1.2.

[0067] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total monoethanolamine content and the total taurine content is between 1.1 and 5, preferably between 1.2 and 3, better still between 1.3 and 2.

[0068] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxides is greater than 1, preferably between 2 and 10, more preferably between 4 and 8.

[0069] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of alkali or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides is greater than 1, preferably between 2 and 10, more preferably between 4 and 8.

[0070] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of monoethanolamine and the total content of sodium hydroxide and / or potassium hydroxide is greater than 1, preferably between 2 and 10, more preferably between 4 and 8.

[0071] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of compounds chosen from amino acids and their derivatives and of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxide(s) is greater than 1, preferably between 1.1 and 3, more preferably between 1.1 and 2.

[0072] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of compounds chosen from taurine and its derivatives and alkali metal hydroxide(s) is greater than 1, preferably between 1.1 and 3, more preferably between 1.1 and 2

[0073] Preferably, the composition of the invention is an aqueous composition. It may in particular comprise water or water and one or more solvents.

[0074] Preferably, the water content generally ranges from 10 to 99% by weight, preferably from 30 to 95% by weight, preferentially from 40 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] As solvents, organic solvents are preferred. Mention may in particular be made of water-soluble solvents such as C1-C7 alcohols; mention may in particular be made of C1-C7 aliphatic monoalcohols, such as for example ethanol, or C6-C7 aromatic monoalcohols, or C2-C6 polyols, such as for example glycerin, pentylene glycol, which may be used alone or in a mixture with water.

[0076] When the composition is aqueous, the pH preferably varies from 7 to 13, preferably from 8 to 12.5, better still from 9 to 12, better still from 10 to 11.5.

[0077] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises: - at least one alkanolamine, - at least one compound chosen from taurine and its derivatives, and - at least one alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxide, preferably at least one alkali metal hydroxide; with a weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of taurine and / or its derivatives greater than 1.

[0078] Preferably, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from the group consisting of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, and mixtures thereof, more preferably monoethanolamine.

[0079] Preferably, the alkali metal hydroxide(s) is(are) chosen from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and mixtures thereof.

[0080] Thickening agents The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more thickening agents.

[0081] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “thickening agent” means an agent which, by its presence in the composition, makes it possible to increase the viscosity of said composition by at least 10 cPs, preferably by at least 200 cPs, at 25°C and at a shear rate of ls-1. This viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer (Haake R600 Rheometer or similar).

[0082] The thickening agent(s) may be chosen from fatty acid amides obtained from C10-C30 carboxylic acid (monoisopropanol-, diethanol- or monoethanol-amide of coconut acids, monoethanolamide of oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid), polymeric thickeners and in particular polysaccharides, in particular cellulose polymers as described below, guar gums, gum arabic, gums of microbial origin (scleroglucan gum), crosslinked or non-crosslinked homo- and copolymers based on acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0083] According to one variant, the thickening polymer is a polysaccharide of natural or synthetic origin.

[0084] The polysaccharide polymers useful in the invention are cationic, non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric polymers, preferably non-ionic.

[0085] The term “polysaccharide polymers” means polymers with sugar units.

[0086] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “sugar unit” means a unit derived from a carbohydrate of formula Cn(H2O)ni or (CH2O)n which may optionally be modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.

[0087] As sugar units, polymers useful in the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

[0088] Examples of polysaccharide polymers that may be mentioned include those derived from native gums such as:

[0089] a) exudates from trees or shrubs including: - gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - gum ghatti (polymer from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); - karaya gum (polymer from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - gum tragacanth (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);

[0090] b) gums derived from algae including: - agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); - carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate);

[0091] c) gums from seeds or tubers of which: - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose);

[0092] d) microbial gums including: - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer);

[0093] e) plant extracts including: - cellulose (glucose polymer); - starch (glucose polymer) and - inulin.

[0094] These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. Physical treatment includes, in particular, temperature.

[0095] As chemical treatments, mention may be made of esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to produce polymers which may be, in particular, non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric.

[0096] Preferably these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.

[0097] Such non-ionic guar gums, optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups, are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60, JAGUAR HP 105 and JAGUAR HP120 by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0098] The polysaccharide polymers may be cellulosic polymers.

[0099] Thus, the cellulose polymers can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses including in microcrystalline form and cellulose ethers.

[0100] Among these cellulose polymers, we distinguish cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.

[0101] Among the cellulose esters, there are inorganic cellulose esters (nitrates, sulfates or phosphates of cellulose...), organic cellulose esters (monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or acetatetrimellitates of cellulose...) and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters such as cellulose acetatebutyratesulfates and acetatepropionatesulfates. Among the cellulose ether esters, there are hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

[0102] Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers without a C10-C30 fatty chain, i.e. “non-associative”, mention may be made of (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR offered by AQUALON) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed celluloses (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutyl methylcelluloses.

[0103] The polysaccharide(s) according to the invention may be chosen from microbial gums.

[0104] The microbial gums may be selected from scleroglucan gums, gellan gums, pullulan gums, Curdlar gums, xanthan gums, grifolan gums, lentinan gums, Schi-zophyllan gums, spirulinan gums and krestin gums.

[0105] Mention may in particular be made of scleroglucan gums produced by Sclerotium rolfsii, gellan gums produced by Pseudomonas elodea or Sphingomonias, pullulan gums produced by Aureobacidium pullulens, Curdlar gums produced by alcaligenes of the Faecalis myxogenes type, xanthan gums produced by numerous organisms including Leuconostoc mesenteroides and Leuconostoc dextrantum, grifolane gums produced by Grifola frondara, lentinan gums produced by Lentinus edodes, Schizophyllan gums produced by Schizophyllum commine, spirulinan gums produced by Spirulina sybsyla and krestin gums produced by Coriates versicolor.

[0106] Preferably, the thickening agent(s) are chosen from polysaccharides, preferentially from guar gums, better still from non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0107] When present, the thickening agent(s) is or are generally present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better still from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0108] When present, the polysaccharide polymer(s) is or are generally present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better still from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0109] Cationic polymers The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more cationic polymers, preferably non-silicone, different from the thickening agents previously described.

[0110] The cationic polymer(s) that can be used may be chosen from associative cationic polymers, non-associative cationic polymers and mixtures thereof.

[0111] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups. The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which can either form part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a side substituent directly linked to it.

[0112] The cationic polymers possibly present in the composition according to the invention can be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of hair, namely in particular those described in patent application EP-A-337 354 and in French patents FR-2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611, 2 470 596 and 2 519 863.

[0113] The polymer(s) are chosen from non-silicone polymers.

[0114] The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which can either form part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a side substituent directly linked to it.

[0115] Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium type.

[0116] These are known products. They are described in particular in French patents No. 2,505,348 or 2,542,997.

[0117] Preferably, the cationic polymer(s) used in the smoothing composition is or are chosen from the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, with the INCI name Polyquaternium-6, such as the product sold under the name "Merquat 100" by the company NALCO (and its counterparts of low weight average molecular mass) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide, with the INCI name Polyquaternium-7, such as the products sold under the name "MERQUAT 550", "MERQUAT 7SPR".

[0118] The cationic polymer(s) used in the composition according to the invention may be present in a content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0119] According to one variant, the composition of the invention comprises at least one thickening agent chosen from polysaccharides and at least one cationic polymer as defined above.

[0120] Surfactants The composition according to the invention may also further comprise one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from non-ionic surfactants and cationic surfactants.

[0121] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more surfactants, preferentially chosen from non-ionic surfactants.

[0122] Among the non-ionic surfactants, it is possible to use oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols, in particular oxyethylenated fatty alcohols, preferably C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising 1 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide.

[0123] When present, the total content of surfactant(s) may range from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, preferentially from 2 to 10% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0124] Fatty substances The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more fatty substances.

[0125] The fatty substance(s) are preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, C8-C30 fatty alcohols, silicones and mixtures thereof.

[0126] By way of example, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms may be chosen from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, the latter may be linear, branched, optionally cyclic, and preferably saturated. Mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0127] The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms may also be chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or vaseline oils (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0128] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms may also be chosen from mixtures of alkanes having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, more particularly from 15 to 28 carbon atoms, mention may be made of mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC, Emogreen L15 marketed by SEPPIC, more particularly Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC.

[0129] The C8-C30 fatty alcohols are preferably chosen from C8-C24 fatty alcohols, preferably C12-C22.

[0130] The fatty alcohols can be chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearic alcohol, and their mixtures such as cetearyl alcohol.

[0131] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, C8-C30 fatty alcohols, silicones and their mixtures, preferentially from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, C8-C30 fatty alcohols, and their mixtures.

[0132] When it(they) is(are) present, the total fatty substance content can range from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, preferentially from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0133] The composition according to the invention can be presented in all galenic forms conventionally used, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or hydroalcoholic, or oily solution or suspension; of a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; of an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O / W, W / O or multiple type; of a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type; of an aqueous or anhydrous gel, a cream or any other cosmetic form.

[0134] Method The present invention also relates to a process for smoothing and / or straightening keratin fibers, in particular hair, using the composition as described above.

[0135] More particularly, the process for smoothing and / or straightening keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprises: a) a step of applying to said keratin fibers a composition as described previously, b) at least one step of rinsing said fibers, c) optionally a step of drying said fibers, and d) a step of smoothing / straightening the keratin fibers during which at least one heat treatment is applied to said fibers.

[0136] Preferably, the straightening / smoothing step is carried out at a temperature above 50°C, preferably between 80 and 250°C.

[0137] Step a) may optionally be preceded by a washing step with a shampoo and / or a rinsing step, preferably with water.

[0138] The composition according to the invention can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers, preferably to wet fibers, said fibers having been previously shampooed and / or rinsed, in particular with water, before application of said composition according to the invention.

[0139] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is applied to dry or damp hair, more preferably damp, said hair having been previously shampooed and / or rinsed, in particular with water, before application of said composition according to the invention.

[0140] The application of the composition in step a) can be carried out by any means, such as by means of a brush or a comb or even with the fingers.

[0141] Preferably, the exposure time of the composition on the keratin fibers in step i) ranges from 10 to 90 minutes, preferably from 10 to 60 minutes, more preferably from 15 to 45 minutes.

[0142] For the purposes of the present invention, the exposure time is the contact time of the composition on the keratin fibers.

[0143] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is left to rest on the keratin fibers. Unique at room temperature.

[0144] For the purposes of the present invention, ambient temperature means a temperature varying from 20°C to 37°C.

[0145] Preferably, the rinsing step b) is a water rinse.

[0146] The rinsing step b) can be carried out one or more times.

[0147] Preferably, the method according to the invention comprises a drying step c) of the keratin fibers carried out after the rinsing step b) and before the smoothing / straightening step d).

[0148] Drying step c) may be carried out by air drying or using a conventional drying means such as a hair dryer or a hood.

[0149] Preferably, the drying step c) is carried out at a temperature below 100°C, preferably at a temperature ranging from 40 to 95°C.

[0150] The smoothing / straightening step d) comprises at least one heat treatment applied to said keratin fibers. That is to say, heat is applied to said keratin fibers during the implementation of the smoothing / straightening step at a temperature preferably greater than or equal to 110°C, preferably at a temperature ranging from 110°C to 280°C, more preferably ranging from 110°C to 250°C, simultaneously or sequentially with a mechanical action.

[0151] In other words, such a device may be a heating device imposing a mechanical action on the keratin fibers to produce smoothing / straightening, this mechanical action being able to be implemented simultaneously or sequentially with the application of heat.

[0152] This heat treatment can be carried out by a device imposing a mechanical action on the keratin fibers to produce smoothing / straightening. For example, we can cite blow-drying using a brush and a hair dryer, a hair straightener, a hair straightener capable of generating steam at the time of treatment such as the Steampod© smoothing tool which allows steam to be applied to the fibers and then smoothed, and heating polyester films.

[0153] Preferably, the smoothing / straightening step d) is carried out with at least one hair straightener or a hair straightener capable of generating steam on the keratin fibers, at a temperature greater than or equal to 110°C.

[0154] The heat treatment of the fibers can also be carried out using a hair dryer or a heating helmet, for example of the Climazon® blower type or an infrared heating helmet, the flattening of the fibers to obtain the smoothing being then carried out manually, for example with a comb or a brush.

[0155] Preferably, the heat treatment of step d) is carried out at a temperature greater than or equal to 110°C, preferably at a temperature ranging from 110°C to 280°C, more preferably ranging from 110°C to 250°C.

[0156] The application of heat may vary, for example, from 5 to 30 minutes, preferably from 10 to 20 minutes.

[0157] The implementation of the method of the invention may be followed by a step of shaping the keratin fibers, for example brushing. That is to say that step d) may be followed by a step of shaping the keratin fibers, for example brushing.

[0158] When the smoothing / straightening step is carried out using a straightening iron, it may be necessary to make several passes of the straightening iron, generally between 1 and 10 passes, preferably between 3 and 5 passes, each pass being carried out between 5 and 40 seconds. According to a particular embodiment with the straightening iron, the total duration of the treatment of the locks of hair is at most 1 minute.

[0159] The method according to the invention can be implemented on sensitized or non-sensitized keratin fibers.

[0160] Preferably, the process for smoothing and / or straightening keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, successively comprises: i) a step of applying to wet keratin fibres at least one composition comprising at least one alkanolamine, at least one compound chosen from taurine and its derivatives and at least one alkali or alkaline-earth metal hydroxide; the weight ratio between the alkanolamine and the compound chosen from taurine and its derivatives is greater than 1; preferably, the application time of the composition varies from 5 to 90 minutes, ii) at least one step of rinsing the keratin fibers, iii) optionally a step of drying the keratin fibers, iv) a step of smoothing / straightening the keratin fibers during which at least one heat treatment is applied to said fibers.

[0161] Preferably, in accordance with this preferred embodiment, the heat treatment varies from 110°C to 280°C, more preferably ranging from 110°C to 250°C.

[0162] Preferably, in accordance with this preferred embodiment, the alkanolamine is chosen from mono-, di- or trialkanolamines, in particular monoethanolamine.

[0163] The invention also relates to the use of the composition as defined above for the smoothing and / or straightening of keratin fibers, in particular hair.

[0164] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0165] Examples In the following examples, all quantities are indicated as a percentage by mass of active ingredient (AI) relative to the total weight of the composition (except unless otherwise stated). Example 1

[0166] a) Composition Composition A to E according to the invention and comparative compositions F and G were produced from the ingredients indicated in the table below:

[0167] [Tables 1] Invention Comparative ABCDEF Taurine 3.375 3.75 3.75 3.375 3.75 5.625 Monoethanolamine 6 5.625 4.5 6 5.625 3.75 Sodium hydroxide 0.875 0.875 0.875 - - 0.875 Potassium hydroxide - - - 1.125 1.125 - Water QslOO QslOO QslOO QslOO QslOO QslOO MEA / Taurine ratio 1.8 1.5 1.2 1.8 1.5 0.7

[0168] The performances of compositions A, B (according to the invention) and F (comparative) are then evaluated according to the protocol detailed below.

[0169] b) Protocol Curl Type V curly hair strands (2.7g) are pre-washed with shampoo. Composition A, B or F is then applied to damp hair at a rate of 1g of composition per gram of strand. A setting time of 30 minutes for the compositions on the strands in the open air and at room temperature is observed. The strands are rinsed with water, passing the fingers under water 20 times. The strands are dried with a hairdryer and then straightened using a straightening iron at a temperature of 230°C (5 passes).

[0170] An evaluation of the reduction of curls is carried out after 1 shampoo and after 5 shampoos.

[0171] c) Results The results are presented in the table below:

[0172] [Tables2] Time Evaluation Composition A Composition B Composition F After 1 shampoo Reduction of curls Straightened hair, without curls Straightened hair, without curls Presence of curls and / or waves After 5 shampoos Reduction of curls Straightened hair, without curls Straightened hair, without curls -

[0173] Compositions A and B according to the invention (with a monoethanolamine / taurine ratio greater than 1) make it possible to obtain better relaxation of the curls compared to comparative composition F.

[0174] Furthermore, the relaxation of the curls obtained with compositions A and B according to the invention is long-lasting and resistant to shampoos.

[0175] Example 2 Composition H according to the invention was produced from the ingredients indicated in the table below:

[0176] [Tables3] Ingredients Quantity in % MA Taurine 3.75 Monoethanolamine 5.625 Sodium hydroxide 0.875 Cl3-16 isoalkane 5 Fatty alcohol 2.5 Dimethicone 0.1 Hydroxypropyl guar 1.5 Non-ionic surfactants 4 Organic solvents 10 Water Qs 100

[0177] Composition H according to the invention has a pH of 10.7.

[0178] When composition H is applied according to the application protocol described above, long-lasting, odorless smoothing is obtained during the application of composition H. After 15 shampoos, the hair is still smooth, disciplined, in- individualized and easy to style.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising: i) one or more alkanolamines, ii) one or more compounds chosen from amino acids and their derivatives, and iii) one or more alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium hydroxides in which the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of compounds chosen from amino acids and their derivatives is greater than 1.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, dii-sopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane and mixtures thereof, preferably the alkanolamine is monoethanolamine.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkanolamine(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, preferentially from 2 to 8% by weight, better still from 3 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound(s) chosen from amino acids and their derivatives are chosen from sulfonic amino acids and their derivatives, preferably from taurine and its derivatives, preferentially from taurine and its salts, better still from taurine, sodium taurate, potassium taurate, magnesium taurate, and their mixtures, more preferentially the compound chosen from amino acids and their derivatives is taurine.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound(s) chosen from amino acids and their derivatives are present in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.75 to 10% by weight, preferentially from 1 to 6% by weight, better still 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxide(s) are chosen from alkali metal hydroxides, and mixtures thereof, preferably from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxide(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.6 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of compounds chosen from amino acids and their derivatives is between 1.1 and 5, preferably between 1.2 and 3, better still between 1.3 and 2.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the total content of alkaline amine(s) and the total content of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxides is greater than 1, preferably between 2 and 10, more preferably between 4 and 8.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the total content of alka-nolamine(s) and the total content of compounds chosen from amino acids and their derivatives and alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxides is greater than 1, preferably between 1 and 3, more preferably between 1.1 and 2.

11. Process for smoothing and / or straightening keratin fibers, in particular hair, using at least one composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims.

12. Use of at least one composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 10, for the smoothing and / or straightening of keratin fibers, in particular hair.