Anhydrous powdered topical cosmetic composition comprising a probiotic agent, hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives, a particular colorant and a particular mineral powder.

Abstract

An anhydrous, powdered topical cosmetic composition, preferably makeup, containing one or more probiotic agents (a), one or more compounds (b) selected from hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, one or more colorants (c) selected from colored mineral pigments and / or vegetable colorants, and at least one water-insoluble mineral powder (d) containing one or more silicon atoms in its chemical composition. A treatment method, particularly for makeup application, for the skin, hair, lips, nails, eyelashes, and eyebrows, preferably skin, using this composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Anhydrous powdery topical cosmetic composition comprising a probiotic agent, hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives, a particular colorant and a particular mineral powder.

[0001] In the field of cosmetics and in particular makeup, it is known to use colored pigments of mineral origin or of natural or synthetic organic origin either alone or in combination, dispersed in powder formulas or in liquid formulas, creams or in non-powdery solids. Often these pigments are used with fatty substances. Anhydrous compositions containing them can pose formulation problems, particularly difficulties in obtaining stable products that are easy to thicken and without an overly marked greasy effect when it comes to compact anhydrous products. For powdered anhydrous products, the main difficulties are avoiding caking during storage and application, the abrasive effect of the particles and the risk of irritation. Synthetic organic pigments can also pose safety concerns. Furthermore, these pigments are not derived from renewable sources and have an unfavorable carbon footprint. Furthermore, the cosmetic supports on which the makeup compositions are applied, whether skin, lips, hair, nails, are essentially made up of keratin materials and are very sensitive to drying, UV radiation, cold, heat and the various mechanical treatments they undergo. There is therefore a need for new powdery makeup compositions that can avoid all these drawbacks.

[0002] Document FR3075647 (Al) from the company LVMH RECH describes a cosmetic composition for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, lips or eyes and preferably the skin, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: a) a hydrolyzate of Theobroma cacao L beans, b) a prebiotic and a probiotic, and c) one or more coloring matter(s). It also describes a cosmetic process for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, lips and / or eyes, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of a cosmetic makeup composition as defined above, in particular a makeup composition for the complexion, lips or eyes, preferably for the complexion. The coloring matter may be chosen from water-soluble or non-water-soluble, fat-soluble or non-fat-soluble, organic or inorganic coloring matters, materials with an optical effect, and their mixtures. Mineral pigments are mentioned, but also synthetic organic pigments and lakes based on cochineal carmine (animal pigment). Many water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes are also mentioned, most of them synthetic, with the mention in the second family of annatto and [3 carotene. For topical applications, among other galenic forms, the compositions can be presented in the form of powders. However, preference goes to emulsions. The possible presence of moisturizers or film-forming polymers among other optional compounds is mentioned. As other active ingredients, Actibiome is also mentioned, active on the activation of microbiota, a complex containing different ingredients including a saccharide isomerate which is a mixture of mono and disaccharides. In the other potential additives, fillers are mentioned of a mineral, vegetable or synthetic nature. Among the mineral fillers are mentioned silicas and kaolin.The six examples of cosmetic formulations include two anhydrous products, including a lip stick and an eyeshadow, the latter of which does not appear to be a powder as it contains more than 50% oils and waxes. This eyeshadow does not contain hyaluronic acid or any of its derivatives. CN115645305 (A) of YANGRUN TECH GUANGDONG CO LTD discloses a setting (makeup) powder, characterized in that it comprises the following components in mass percentage: 98.9%-99% base material and 1%-1.1% auxiliary material in oil phase; the base material comprising a first modified corn starch, a second modified corn starch, modified rice starch, modified cellulose, amino acid derivatives, sodium hyaluronate and a coloring system; the first modified corn starch being a corn starch treated with an HDI / trihydroxymethylhexyl lactone crosslinked polymer and a silica composite coating; the second modified corn starch being treated with an amino acid derivative, the modified rice starch being a rice starch transformed with the amino acid derivative; the modified cellulose being a cellulose treated with magnesium myristate;oil phase supplementary materials including humectants and / or emollients.; It is stated that in one embodiment, the colorant comprises at least one of red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide and black iron oxide. Silica is only used as a coating agent for starch. It is even specified that modified starches or cellulose can replace inorganic powders such as silica fume, mica and talcum powder. The possibility of using probiotic agents is not mentioned. WO2011 / 112421 (A2) of ELC MAN LLC describes a probiotic color cosmetic composition comprising at least one extract of a probiotic organism, at least one particulate non-clay phyllosilicate mineral and at least one anti-inflammatory ingredient present in an amount sufficient to inhibit one or more of the pathways contributing to skin inflammation. Also described is a method wherein the composition is a foundation, blush, eye shadow, concealer, or lipstick. The particle is preferably a mica. Cosmetic coloring compositions can be in the form of aqueous gels or dispersions, emulsions or anhydrous compositions. Among other forms, anhydrous pigmented compositions in the form of pressed or loose powders are mentioned. The compositions may contain one or more humectants. Polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols as well as suitable sugars are mentioned as possible humectants. Examples of these sugars, mono or di-saccharides, are mentioned: glucose, fructose, honey, hydrogenated honey, inositol, maltose, mannitol, maltitol, sorbitol, sucrose, xylitol, xylose but the preferred humectant is butylene glycol. The compositions may contain various organic and / or inorganic pigments. Organic pigments are generally of various aromatic types such as azo, indigoid, triphenylmethane, anthraquinone, and xanthine dyes, which are designated as D&C and FD&C blues, browns, greens, oranges, reds, yellows, and the like. Organic pigments generally consist of insoluble metal salts of approved color additives called lakes. Inorganic pigments include iron oxides, ultramarines, chromium, chromium hydroxide pigments, and mixtures thereof. Of the two illustrative examples, the second describes two powder compositions. The first is a pressed powder, the second a loose powder, both of which comprise mica, silica, bentonite, iron oxides and a probiotic Lactobacillus ferment but no hyaluronic acid or its derivatives and moreover containing no polysaccharides. Document FR3105922 (Al) of the applicant describes a cosmetic composition for the treatment of the lips in the form of a compact solid comprising one or more probiotic agents (a) and one or more compounds (b) chosen from hyaluronic acid and its derivatives. It is mentioned that extracts of plant origin may be present and that the preferred extracts are coloring extracts, i.e. containing one or more coloring active ingredients. No mention is made of other coloring active ingredients. Neither of the two examples of compositions contains coloring actives. Furthermore, the compositions are in the form of compact solids and not powders.

[0003] To solve the problems mentioned above, the applicant recommends powdered anhydrous topical cosmetic compositions containing one or more probiotic agents (a), one or more compounds (b) chosen from hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, one or more colorants (c) chosen from colored mineral pigments and / or from plant colorants, and at least one water-insoluble mineral powder (d) containing in its chemical composition one or more silicon atoms. Preferably, the compositions of the invention are makeup compositions. None of the documents mentioned above discloses such compositions. The compositions of the invention are easy to formulate and manufacture, and are stable over time. They are easily applied to the anatomical substrates of destination, without any marked greasy or sticky effect and without any marked abrasive character. The coloring effects of the substrates are intense, homogeneous and long-lasting over time. The substrates treated with the compositions of the invention are not irritated, retain their hydration over time, as well as their flexibility and softness.

[0004] For the purposes of the invention, the term anhydrous means a composition containing at room temperature (20 to 30°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 105 Pa) less than 5% water by weight, better still less than 1% water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the compositions of the invention do not contain deliberately introduced water. By powder we mean a composition which is present at room temperature (20 to 30°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 105 Pa) in the form of a powder, this being made up of a mixture of particles. Topical means a composition intended to be applied to the surface of external bodily substrates. This type of composition is to be distinguished from compositions usable orally, that is to say intended to be ingested. Water-insoluble means an ingredient whose solubility in water at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is less than 0.1% by weight. The expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0005] The compositions of the invention comprise one or more probiotic agents (a). For the purposes of the present invention, probiotic agent (a) means probiotics or their lysates. Probiotics are live or inactivated microorganisms that, when ingested in sufficient quantities, exert positive health effects that go beyond traditional nutritional effects (Consultation on Evaluation of Health and Nu-tritional Properties of Probiotic in Food Including Powder Milk with Live Lactic Acid Bacteria, October 6, 2001). In a first variant of the invention, the probiotic agent(s) (a) are living or inactivated microorganisms belonging to yeasts and bacteria. The probiotic or probiotics of the invention may in particular be chosen from strains of species belonging to the following genera: Lactobacillus, Clostridium, Bifidobacterium, Saccharomyces, Streptococcus, Pediococcus, Ente-rococcus, Escherichia, Alcaligenes, Corynebacterium, Bacillus, Propionibacterium, Oenococcus, Aerococcus, Lactococcus, Sporolactobaccilus, Melissococcus, Yarrowia, Kluyveromyces, Torulaspora, Debaromyces, Schizosaccharomyces, Aspergillus, Bac-teroides, Fusobacterium, Weissela, Leuconostoc. The preferred genera of microorganisms within the scope of the invention are those which have strains which are either related to the intestinal sphere, or are naturally present on the skin or are present in human food. The probiotic agent(s) (a) are preferably derived from microorganisms of the genera Lactobacillus, Bifidobacterium, Micrococcus, Lactococcus, Streptococcus, Saccharomyces. Even more preferably, the probiotic agents (a) of the invention will be those derived from the genera Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium. Mention may in particular be made of microorganisms of the strains Lactobacillus acidophilus, L. casei or paracasei, L. gasseri, L. rhamnosus, L. planturum, Bifidobacterium animalis, B. breve, B. longum, B. bifidum, which are all well-known strains. Better still, the probiotic agents of the invention (a) will be those from the genus Lactobacillus. Even better, the probiotic agents of the invention (a) will be those derived from the strains Lactobacillus acidophilus, L. casei or paracasei, L. gasseri, L. rhamnosus, L. planturum. Inactivation of microorganisms can be achieved by gentle heating. The inactivated microorganism has intact cellular structures. A live or inactivated microorganism can be implemented in different forms, such as a solution, a powder, or a concentrate. In another variant of the invention, the probiotic agents (a) of the invention are lysates of microorganisms belonging to yeasts and bacteria. The microorganisms are the same as those mentioned above. A lysate within the meaning of the invention commonly designates a material obtained following the destruction or dissolution of biological cells by a phenomenon known as cell lysis, thus causing the release of intracellular biological constituents na- naturally contained in the cells of the microorganism in question. The lysate can be filtered. For the purposes of the present invention, the term lysate is used indifferently to designate the entire lysate obtained by lysis of the microorganism concerned or only a fraction of it. The lysate used is therefore formed in whole or in part from intracellular biological constituents and constituents of cell walls and membranes. Advantageously, a lysate used for the invention may be the entire lysate obtained by lysis of the microorganism concerned. A lysate suitable for the invention can be prepared in particular from microorganisms at the end of the growth phase. This cell lysis can be accomplished by different technologies, such as the action of one or more enzymes, osmotic shock, thermal shock, ultrasound, or even under mechanical stress such as centrifugation. A lysate can be implemented in different forms, such as for example in the form of a solution or in a powder form. The probiotic agent(s) (a) of the invention may represent more than 0.0001%, in particular from 0.001 to 30%, more particularly from 0.001 to 15%, and better still from 0.001 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing them. Advantageously, the probiotic agent(s) (a) of the invention are live or inactivated microorganisms. When it comes to live microorganisms, the composition according to the invention may preferably comprise from 10 cfu to 5x109 cfu, better still from 20 cfu to 1x106 cfu, even better still from 50 cfu to 1x104 cfu of these live probiotic microorganisms per gram of composition. By "cfu" is meant "colony forming unit". This is the standard unit of measurement used to quantify live microorganisms. As a probiotic agent of the invention, we can for example cite the product Symreboot L19 from the company SYMRISE which is a combination of maltodextrin and inactivated ferment of Lactobacillus plantarum.

[0006] The compositions of the invention comprise one or more compounds (b) chosen from hyaluronic acid and its derivatives. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hyaluronic acid derivatives” means salts of hyaluronic acid, polysaccharide fragments of hyaluronic acid and their salts, compounds, salified or not, crosslinked with hyaluronic acid or polysaccharide fragments of hyaluronic acid, and compounds, salified or not, with structures derived from those of hyaluronic acid or polysaccharide fragments of hyaluronic acid by a simple substitution. By polysaccharide fragment of hyaluronic acid is meant in the sense of present invention, a partial hydrolyzate of hyaluronic acid. For the purposes of the present invention, the term polysaccharide means a compound comprising the chain of at least three ose molecules, preferably at least five ose molecules. Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan, widely distributed in connective, epithelial, and nervous tissues. In nature, its molecular weight ranges from 4 kDa to 1 x 104 kDa. It is one of the main components of the extracellular matrix. Chemically speaking, it is a polysaccharide polymer derived from a disaccharide, hyalobiuronic acid. The salts of hyaluronic acid and hyaluronic acid fragments are mainly the alkali and alkaline earth metal salts. The preferred salt is the sodium salt. Hyaluronic acid fragments and their salts can be obtained by various processes. Document FR2918892 from PIERRE FABRE DERMO COSMETIQUE describes fragments obtained by heat treatment or by the action of ultrasound. Documents CN108220364 and CN109517012 from BLOOMAGE FREDA BIOPHARM CO LTD describe processes involving enzymatic hydrolysis. The enzyme used is most often a hyaluronase. Gamma irradiation constitutes another possible process as described in the article "Gamma-Irradiation-Prepared Low Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid Promotes Skin Wound Healing, Yu-Chih HUANG and ail, Polymers, July 19, 2019. Very frequently hyaluronic acid fragments are described in the literature or commercial products either under the generic name hyaluronic acid, with molecular weights specified or not, or under the name low molecular weight hyaluronic acid. The molecules, salified or not, derived from hyaluronic acid or from polysaccharide fragments of hyaluronic acid can be chosen from crosslinked derivatives, C6-C18 acylated derivatives and hydroxyalkylated derivatives of hyaluronic acid or its salts or hyaluronic acid fragments or their salts. Examples of crosslinked derivatives are described in document KR20150029578 of HUMEDIX CO LTD, in documents CN104771331, CN105670008, CN106589424 of BLOOMAGE FREDA BIOPHARM CO LTD and in document CN109762183 of BLOOMAGE BIOTECH CO LTD. Examples of acylated derivatives are described in document WO2014082609 of CONTRIPO BIOTECH SRO. Examples of hydroxyalkyl derivatives are described in document CN104448034 of BLOOMAGE FREDA BIOPHARM CO LTD. Preferably, the compound(s) (b) are chosen from hyaluronic acid and its salts or from polysaccharide fragments of hyaluronic acid and their salts. The molecular weight of the compounds (b) usable in the compositions of the invention is preferably less than 1x104 kDa. More preferably, this molecular weight is less than 5x103 kDa, better still less than 1x103 kDa, advantageously less than 100 kDa, even more advantageously less than 10 kDa. As compound (b), we can cite the commercial product Hyacolor from the company BLOOMAGE BIOTECHNOLOGY which is a combination of sodium hyaluronate (in fragment form), castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil. Advantageously, the concentration of compounds (b) in the compositions of the invention can vary from 0.001 to 10%, better still from 0.002 to 5%, even better still from 0.005 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0007] The compositions of the invention contain one or more colorants (c) chosen from colored mineral pigments and vegetable colorants. In a first preferred variant, the compositions of the invention contain one or more colorants (c) chosen from colored mineral pigments, preferably from chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, metallic particles (gold, silver), carbon black, iron oxides and even more preferably from yellow, red or black iron oxides. In a second preferred variant, the compositions of the invention contain one or more plant colorants. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “plant colorant” means any ingredient comprising at least one colorant present naturally in a plant or in a secretion of a plant. Preferably, the plant dyes used in the invention do not contain in their chemical structure atoms of metallic elements from columns 2 to 12 of the periodic table of elements. By plant we mean any organism belonging to the Plant kingdom (or Plantae), one of the six kingdoms of the domain (or empire or super-kingdom) of eukaryotes. The plant may belong to the class of cryptogams. More preferably, the plant belongs to the class of phanerogams. The plant can be a tree, a shrub, a green plant, a flowering plant, a cactus, a grass. The dye can be applied directly from the plant as it is or from one of its parts (roots, stems or trunks, leaves, flowers or fruits, exudates). Preferably it is implemented from extracts obtained from a plant as such or from one of its parts. To obtain the plant dyes (c) of the invention, the plants can be treated by grinding, by extraction with water or solvents or with supercritical carbon dioxide, by chemical or enzymatic attack or by a combination of these means. In the case of extraction, there may subsequently be an operation of concentration of active ingredients by filtration or by evaporation of solvent. Finally, in all cases, the addition of adjuvants is possible to facilitate implementation. These plant dyes can be soluble or insoluble in water at room temperature (20 to 30°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 105 Pa). As plant colorants (c) we can notably cite those derived from the following plants: Madder (example species Rubia Tinctorum) Tomato (example species Solanum Lycopersicum) Quebracho (example of species Schinopsis quebracho-colorado) Pernambuco (example of Caesalpinia Echinata species) Chestnut (example of Castanea Sativa species) Turmeric (example of Curcuma Tumeric species) Sorghum (example of the species Sorghum Bicolor) Cachou (example of Acacia Catechu species) Annatto (example of species Bixa Orellana) Sappan (example of species Caesalpinia Sappan) Genipa (example species Genipa Americana) Indigo palm (example of Indigofera Tinctoria species) Red cabbage (example of Brassica Oleracea species) Reseda (example of the species Reseda Luteola) Sumac (example of species Rhus Semialata) Preferably, plant dyes are chosen from those derived from madder, tomato, sorghum, chestnut and sumac. The compositions of the invention may also contain as colorants (c) a mixture of colored mineral pigments and vegetable colorants. The concentration of dyes (c) in the compositions of the invention preferably varies from 0.001% to 60% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 50%, better still from 0.2 to 40%, even better still from 1 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions of the invention may comprise dyes different from dyes (c). These additional colorants are synthetic colorants that are water-soluble, fat-soluble or insoluble in water, solvents and oils, the latter class of colorants constituting synthetic colored pigments, particularly in the form of metallic lakes. Preferably, the dyes (c) are the only dyes present in the compositions. of the invention.

[0008] The compositions of the invention comprise at least one water-insoluble mineral powder (d) containing in its chemical composition one or more silicon atoms. As a reminder, insoluble in water means an ingredient whose solubility in water at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is less than 0.1% by weight. For the purposes of the present invention, mineral powder means a powdery ingredient not comprising a covalent bond (single, double or triple) between two carbon atoms in its chemical structure. The powders (d) of the invention are preferably chosen from silicas and silicates. Silica exists in the free state in different crystalline or amorphous forms. Free silica is very abundant in nature, in the form of quartz, chalcedony, opal and diatomaceous earth. Silica can also be found in unequal proportions in certain plants, mainly in algae, nettle, horsetail, blackcurrant, and bamboo. A silicate is a salt that combines silicon dioxide SiO2 with other metal oxides. Minerals with a silicate composition are also referred to as silicates and constitute an extremely important mineral family. Silicates are divided into six families: -NesoSilicates -Sorosilicates -Cyclosilicates -Inosilicates -Phyllosilicates -Tectosilicates. In a variant of the invention, the silicates are chosen from aluminosilicates. Aluminosilicates are minerals from the silicate group in which certain silicon atoms Si are replaced by aluminum atoms Al. These substitutions are observed in particular in the families of phyllosilicates and tectosilicates. In another variant of the invention the silicates are different from the aluminosilicates. In this variant the silicates can be -aluminum silicates, in which aluminum atoms Al do not replace silicon atoms, do not belong to the aluminosilicate family. Examples: kaolinite, pyrophyllite. -silicates which do not contain aluminum atoms in their chemical structures. By chemical structure of silicate we mean the structure of the mineral constituting the silicate and not that of any impurities. In another preferred variant of the invention, the powders (d) are chosen from silicates which do not contain aluminum atoms in their chemical structures. Most preferably, silicates that can be used as powder (d) do not contain aluminum atoms in their structure. This is particularly the case for talc, willemite, hemimorphite, and phenacite. Even more preferably, the silicate usable as powder (d) is talc. Talc is a mineral species composed of doubly hydroxylated magnesium silicate of formula Mg3Si4O10(OH)2. The concentration of powders (d) in the compositions of the invention preferably varies from 0.1% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 85%, better still from 1 to 75%, even better still from 5 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0009] The compositions of the invention may comprise at least one non-chemically modified vegetable oil. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “oil” means a compound immiscible with liquid water at room temperature (20 to 30°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 105 Pa). Liquid means an ingredient that flows under its own weight. The definition of the term vegetable is the one mentioned above. For the purposes of the invention, chemically unmodified means an ingredient which did not require the deliberate action of one or more chemical additives other than air, voluntarily modifying the chemical structure of the compound(s) constituting the starting ingredient, to be obtained. In particular, for its production, vegetable oil must not have undergone any hydrogenation, oxyalkylenation or transesterification reaction. On the other hand, to obtain the oil, the plant can undergo different types of physical treatments. Without being limiting, we can cite the following operations: crushing, sieving, pressing, decantation, solvation, filtration, evaporation, heating, cooling. Vegetable oils are composed primarily of triglycerides. Triglycerides are triesters of glycerol and saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. Among the vegetable oils that can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may in particular be made of avocado oil, peanut oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, calophyllum oil, rapeseed oil, copra oil, coriander oil, pumpkin oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vernonia oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, passionflower oil, grape seed oil, castor oil, rosehip oil, rye oil, sesame oil, rice bran oil, soybean oil, oil of hemp, sunflower oil, argan oil. Even more preferably, the vegetable oil or oils (d) are chosen from castor oil, sunflower oil, apricot kernel oil, jojoba oil, hemp oil, argan oil. In the compositions of the invention, the content of vegetable oils can vary from 0.1 to 98% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 95% by weight, even better still from 1 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions of the invention may contain one or more oils other than vegetable oils. Additional oils can be polar or non-polar, volatile or non-volatile (an oil is said to be non-volatile when its vapor pressure is less than 0.02 mm of mercury at atmospheric pressure and room temperature). Additional oils can be hydrocarbon, mineral or synthetic. They can also be silicone or fluorinated. The additional silicone oils can be linear or branched or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes possibly carrying aryl groups and in particular phenyl. The additional non-polar hydrocarbon oils are preferably chosen from paraffin oil, isoparaffins (isododecane, isodecanes), linear alkanes (n-dodecane), squalane, isoeicosane, polybutylenes or polyisobutylenes, hydrogenated or not, polydecenes, hydrogenated or not. The polar additional oils are preferably hydrocarbon-based. They may be chosen from branched or unsaturated fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol and octyldodecanol. They are preferably chosen from triglycerides of synthetic origin and esters of fatty acids other than triglycerides. Preferably the additional oils are non-silicone. In the compositions of the invention, the content of additional oils other than vegetable oils can vary from 0.1 to 60% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 50% by weight, even better still from 1 to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0010] The compositions of the invention may contain one or more wax or butter type ingredients. For the purposes of the present invention, wax or butter means a lipophilic compound that is solid or semi-solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point above 25°C and preferably below 120°C. The melting point of the wax or butter can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example that offered by the company METTLER under the reference DSC 30. For the purposes of the invention, solid or semi-solid means an ingredient which does not does not flow at room temperature and atmospheric pressure under the action of its own weight. Waxes can be hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated and can be of natural mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic origin. They can be polar or non-polar. Examples of non-polar waxes include microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, and polyethylene waxes. The polar waxes are preferably hydrocarbon-based and even more preferably chosen from ester waxes comprising at least one ester function and alcohol waxes comprising at least one alcohol function. The ester waxes are preferably chosen from fatty acid(s) and / or fatty alcohol esters in solid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The alcohol waxes are preferably chosen from fatty alcohols in solid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure such as cetyl alcohol or cetylstearyl alcohol. Butters are often composed primarily of triglycerides rich in saturated fatty acids obtained either naturally or from hydrogenated vegetable oils. Waxes or butters of natural origin are preferably chosen from beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, bay leaf wax, apple wax, shea butter, cocoa butter. Preferably, the additional waxes or butters are chosen from vegetable waxes or butters and even more preferably from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, shea butter and cocoa butter. In the compositions of the invention the content of waxes or butters can vary from 0.1 to 60% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 50% by weight, even better still from 1 to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0011] The compositions according to the invention may comprise one or more non-polysaccharide fillers without silicon atoms in their chemical structure. For the purposes of the present invention, filler means a non-coloring powdery ingredient insoluble in water at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa). Water-insoluble means an ingredient whose solubility in water at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is less than 0.1% by weight. For the purposes of the present invention, non-coloring means a white or colorless ingredient. Fillers can be mineral or organic. As preferred fillers which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of zinc oxide, calcium carbonate, zinc stearate, guanine, lauroyl lysine. In the compositions of the invention, the content of non-polysaccharide fillers can vary from 0.1 to 60% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 50% by weight, even better still from 1 to 45%, most preferably from 2 to 40%, even better still from 5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0012] The compositions of the invention may comprise one or more chemically modified or non-chemically modified starches. Starch is a polysaccharide (or polysaccharide). It is a storage molecule for higher plants. Starch is a mixture of two homopolymers, amylose and amylopectin, composed of D-anhydroglucopyranose (AGU) units, both of which are polysaccharides with the general chemical formula (C6H10O5)m. The AGU units are linked together by α(l-4) bonds, and α(l-6) bonds, which are the origin of branches in the structure of the molecule. These two homopolymers differ in their degree of branching and their degree of polymerization: -amylose, a slightly branched molecule with short branches and whose molecular mass can be between 10,000 and 1,000,000 daltons. - amylopectin or isoamylose, a branched molecule with long branches every 24 to 30 glucose units via a(l-6) bonds. Its molecular mass can range from 1,000,000 to 100,000,000 daltons, according to scientific estimates, and its branching level is around 5%. The ratio of amylose to amylopectin depends on the botanical source of the starch. Sometimes, phytoglycogen is also present (between 0 and 20% of the starch), an amylopectin analogue but branched every 10 to 15 glucose residues. Starch grains generally appear as semi-crystalline granules in which amylopectin is organized into sheets, creating the crystalline zone, while amylose defines an amorphous zone between the different sheets. Starch can be present in many plant organs such as: - seeds (for example for chestnuts, cereals (wheat, corn, wheat, etc.) and legumes); -roots and in particular in tubers and rhizomes (potato, sweet potato, cassava, etc.; in this case it is called starch; -fruits (bananas, breadfruit) The starches of the invention are preferably chosen from corn, rice, cassava, oat, tapioca, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum and pea starches. Starch can be native or can undergo different modifications: - physical or physicochemical modifications: pre-cooking on a cylinder, in extrusion or in an atomization tower, pre-gelatinization (cooking followed by drying), dextrination (action of dry heat) -chemical modifications using chemical reagents other than atmospheric oxygen: crosslinking, substitution (esterification, etherification for example), oxidation (introduction of carboxyl groups), chemical hydrolysis, conversion or enzymatic hydrolysis. There may of course be at the starch level (e) a mixture of physical or physicochemical modifications and / or a mixture of chemical modifications. Non-limiting examples of chemically modified starches include sodium starch octenylsuccinate, calcium starch octenylsuccinate, distarch phosphate, hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium carboxymethyl starch and sodium starch glycolate. In an even more preferred version of the invention, the starches are not chemically modified. The compositions of the invention comprise a proportion of chemically modified or non-chemically modified starches preferably ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, better still from 1% to 30% by weight, even better still 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0013] The compositions according to the invention may also comprise one or more conventional additives well known in the art, different from the compounds defined previously. Examples of additives that can be used according to the invention include associative or non-associative, ionic or non-ionic polymers, UVA and / or UVB filters, softening agents, vitamins, pro-vitamins, amino acids, perfumes, peptizing agents, preservatives, antioxidants, alkalizing or acidifying agents (in particular to regulate the pH or to salify the ingredients), and anti-wrinkle agents. Preferably, the compositions of the invention do not contain organic compounds comprising one or more silicon atoms in their structure. By organic compound comprising one or more silicon atoms in its structure is meant in particular, within the meaning of the invention, a compound having in its chemical structure at least one R-Si-O- chain, R being a hydrocarbon radical optionally carrying one or more heteroatoms. These organic silicon compounds are in particular silicone compounds and silanes, the latter being reactive compounds leading to the formation of silicone compounds.

[0014] The cosmetic compositions of the invention are topical compositions. By topical we recall a composition intended to be applied to the surface of external bodily substrates. Preferably, the compositions of the invention will be used for the treatment of the skin, lips, nails, eyelashes or eyebrows and even more preferably for the treatment of the skin. Preferably, the compositions of the invention are used for skin makeup. The compositions of the invention may be used in particular in foundations, shadows or eyeshadows. The powdery compositions of the invention can be used in free form or in pressed form.

[0015] The invention also covers a method of treatment, in particular of makeup, of the skin, hair, lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows, and preferably of the skin, consisting of applying to the substrate concerned a cosmetic composition as described above with or without subsequent rinsing. For the purposes of the present invention, makeup means the addition of color, other than a white color, to the treated anatomical substrate.

[0016] [Examples]

[0017] The example below illustrates the invention without, however, limiting its scope. Example 1 The composition described in table 1 below is that of a powder foundation that colors the skin in a beige color. This composition is easy to make. It is stable over time without caking. It is easy to apply to the skin without any marked greasy or sticky effect during and after application. The skin coloring obtained is uniform and long-lasting. The treated skin is non-irritated and retains its hydration over time, as well as its suppleness and softness.

[0018] [Tables 1] Ingredient (INCI name Europe) Quantity in g per 100 g of composition Lactobacillus Ferment (ingredient (a)) 0.00175 Sodium Hya-luronate (ingredient (b)) 0.01 CI 77492 (ingredient (c): yellow iron oxide) 0.262 CI 77491 (ingredient (c): red iron oxide) 0.148 CI 77499 (ingredient (c): black iron oxide) 0.01 Castanea Sativa Bark Extract (ingredient (c)) 0.04 Talc (ingredient (d) 59.76 Silica (ingredient (d) 8 Zinc stearate 1 Lauroyl lysine 4 Calcium carbonate 0.03 Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil 2 Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil 0.03 Butyrospermu m Parkü Butter 0.8 Coco-Caprylate / Caprate 4 Tapioca Starch 18 Glyceryl Unde-cylenate 0.15 Potassium Alum 0.03 Maltodextrin 0.00825 Antioxidants 0.37

Claims

Claims

1. Anhydrous powdery topical cosmetic composition containing one or more probiotic agents (a), one or more compounds (b) chosen from hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, one or more colorants (c) chosen from colored mineral pigments and / or from plant colorants, and at least one water-insoluble mineral powder (d) containing in its chemical composition one or more silicon atoms.

2. Composition according to claim 1 characterized in that it is a makeup composition.

3. Composition according to claims 1 or 2 in which the probiotic agent(s) (a) are live or inactivated microorganisms belonging to yeasts and bacteria.

4. Composition according to claims 1 or 2 in which the probiotic agent(s) (a) are lysates of microorganisms belonging to yeasts and bacteria.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the probiotic agent(s) (a) are derived from microorganisms of the genera Lactobacillus, Bifidobacterium, Micrococcus, Streptococcus and Saccharamyces, preferably of the genera Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium, and even more preferably of the genus Lactobacillus.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the probiotic agents (a) represent more than 0.0001%, in particular from 0.001 to 30%, more particularly from 0.001 to 15%, and better still from 0.001 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the compound(s) (b) are chosen from hyaluronic acid and its salts or polysaccharide fragments of hyaluronic acid and their salts.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the compound(s) (b) are present at a concentration ranging from 0.001 to 10%, better still from 0.002 to 5%, even better still from 0.005 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the colorants (c) are chosen from mineral pigments colored, preferably among chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, metallic particles (gold, silver), carbon black, iron oxides and even more preferably among yellow, red or black iron oxides.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 in which the colorants (c) are used from extracts obtained from a plant as such or from one of its parts.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 and 10 in which the plant colorants (c) are derived from the following plants: madder, tomato, quebracho, pernambuco, chestnut, turmeric, sorghum, catechu, annatto, sappan, genipa, indigo, red cabbage, mignonette, sumac and preferably those derived from madder, tomato, sorghum and chestnut, sumac.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the concentration of dyes (c) in the compositions of the invention preferably varies from 0.001% to 60% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 50%, better still from 0.2 to 40%, even better still from 1 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the mineral powders (d) are chosen from silicas and silicates.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the mineral powders (d) are chosen from silicates other than aluminosilicates and preferably from silicates not containing aluminum atoms in their structure.

15. A composition according to any preceding claim wherein the mineral powder (d) is talc.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the concentration of powders (d) varies from 0.1% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 85%, better still from 1 to 75%, even better still from 5 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at least one non-chemically modified vegetable oil, preferably chosen from avocado oil, peanut oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, calophyllum oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, coriander oil, pumpkin oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vernonia, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, passionflower oil, grape seed oil, castor oil, rosehip oil, rye oil, sesame oil, rice bran oil, soybean oil, hemp oil, sunflower oil, argan oil.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more non-polysaccharide fillers different from the powders (d), more preferably chosen from zinc oxide, calcium carbonate, zinc stearate, guanine, lauroyl lysine.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it does not contain organic compounds comprising in their structure one or more silicon atoms.

20. Method for treatment, in particular for make-up, of the skin, hair, lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows, and preferably of the skin, consisting in applying to the substrate concerned a cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims with or without subsequent rinsing.