Cosmetic composition comprising a combination of fillers
A cosmetic composition using starch, cellulose, perlite, Lauroyl Lysine, and boron nitride addresses the 'fluff' defect by offering a soft, light texture with a smooth, occlusive film and mattifying properties for the eye area.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023008275
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-07-31
- Publication Date
- 2025-02-07
AI Technical Summary
Cosmetic compositions for the eye area often exhibit a 'fluff' defect with particle visibility and lack a soft, light texture, failing to form a smooth, occlusive film with blurring and mattifying properties.
A cosmetic composition comprising starch, cellulose particles, perlite, Lauroyl Lysine or its salts, and boron nitride in a reverse emulsion form, providing a light and soft texture with a fine, occlusive film and mattifying properties.
The composition achieves a soft and light texture with a thick feel during spreading, forming a smooth, occlusive film that blurs imperfections and provides a mattifying effect.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising a combination of fillers
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an inverse emulsion (water-in-oil) comprising:
[0002] (a) starch,
[0003] (b) cellulose particles,
[0004] (c) perlite,
[0005] (d) lauroyl lysine or one of its salts, and
[0006] (e) boron nitride.
[0007] To improve the sensoriality of cosmetic products, and in particular of care products, it is common to use fillers of different types.
[0008] This type of product, and in particular for the care of the eye contour, often presents a defect called "linting". "Litting" consists of the appearance of particles disintegrating on the skin during or after spreading.
[0009] In the context of cosmetic care compositions, particularly for the eye contour, it is desirable to have compositions with a soft and light texture, without a fluffing effect, and inducing the formation of a smooth and occlusive homogeneous film (without a tightening effect). In addition, it is preferable for this type of composition to have a visual effect of blurring imperfections and mattifying.
[0010] The formulator is therefore looking for raw materials that make it possible to obtain compositions that have such texture and application properties, while avoiding a fluffing effect.
[0011] A composition is therefore sought which has a light and soft texture, a feeling of thickness under the finger when spreading, a thin and occlusive film, and mattifying and blurring properties for imperfections.
[0012] The present invention therefore aims to provide compositions in the form of emulsions, having a light and soft texture, a feeling of thickness under the finger when spreading, a thin and occlusive film, and mattifying and blurring properties for imperfections.
[0013] It has been discovered that the association of specific fillers with surface effects and particular physicochemical properties makes it possible to obtain such an effect.
[0014] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. those whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern to help meet global challenges.
[0015] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients, thus making it possible to respond to these environmental challenges.
[0016] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good index of naturalness and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.
[0017] The combination of charges according to the present invention contributes in this direction.
[0018] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an inverse emulsion (water-in-oil) comprising:
[0019] (a) starch,
[0020] (b) cellulose particles,
[0021] (c) perlite,
[0022] (d) lauroyl lysine or one of its salts, and
[0023] (e) boron nitride.
[0024] In particular, the composition according to the invention is a skin care composition, in particular for caring for the skin around the eyes.
[0025] The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an inverse emulsion (water-in-oil) comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0026] - from 0.1 to 5% by weight of starch,
[0027] - from 0.05% to 1% by weight of cellulose particles,
[0028] - from 0.05% to 1% by weight of perlite,
[0029] - from 0.05% to 1% by weight of lauroyl lysine or one of its salts, and
[0030] - from 0.01% to 1% by weight of boron nitride.
[0031] The invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for skin care, in particular for skin care around the eyes.
[0032] The invention also relates to a skin care method, in which the composition according to the invention is applied to the skin. In particular, the skin is that around the eyes. Starch
[0033] The starch(es) usable in the present invention are more particularly macromolecules in the form of polymers consisting of elementary units which are anhydroglucose units. The number of these units and their assembly make it possible to distinguish amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer).
[0034] The starch molecules used in the present invention may be derived from a plant source such as cereals, tubers, roots, vegetables and fruits. Thus, the starch(es) may come from a plant source selected from corn, peas, potato, sweet potato, banana, barley, wheat, rice, oats, sago, tapioca, and sorghum. The starch is preferably derived from corn.
[0035] It is also possible to use the hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above.
[0036] Starches are generally in the form of a white powder, insoluble in cold water, with elementary particle sizes ranging from 3 to 100 microns.
[0037] The starches used in the composition of the invention may be native, or modified, in particular chemically modified, preferably by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, heat treatments.
[0038] Preferably, the starch present in the composition is chosen from native starches. For example, BEAUTE-BY-ROQUETTE ST005 from the company ROQUETTE may be mentioned.
[0039] Alternatively, when the starch is a modified starch, the chemical modification reactions can be carried out as follows:
[0040] - pregelatinization by bursting the starch granules (e.g. drying and cooking in a drying drum);
[0041] - oxidation by strong oxidants leading to the introduction of carboxyl groups in the starch molecule and to the depolymerization of the starch molecule (for example by treating an aqueous starch solution with sodium hypochlorite);
[0042] - crosslinking by functional agents capable of reacting with the groups hydroxyl of the starch molecules which will thus be linked together (for example with glyceryl and / or phosphate groups);
[0043] - esterification in alkaline medium for the grafting of functional groups, in particular C1-C6 acyl (acetyl), C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl (hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl), carboxyalkyl (especially carboxymethyl), octenylsuccinic. In particular, starches modified with sodium carboxymethyl may be mentioned.
[0044] In particular, it is possible to obtain by crosslinking with phosphorus compounds monostarch phosphates (of the Am-O-PO-(OX)2 type), distarch phosphates (of the Am-O-PO-(OX)-O-Am type) or even tristarch phosphates (of the Am-O-PO-(OX)2 type) or mixtures thereof.
[0045] X denotes in particular alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium), alkaline earth metals (for example calcium, magnesium), ammonia salts, amine salts such as those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3-aminopropanediol-1,2, ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, citrulline.
[0046] The phosphorus compounds may be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate.
[0047] Among the starch phosphates, one can distinguish in particular hydroxypropyl starch phosphates, or compounds rich in starch phosphate, in particular hydroxypropyl, such as the products offered under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the company AVEBE or STRUCTURE ZEA from NATIONAL STARCH (gelatinized hydroxypropyl corn distarch phosphate).
[0048] When starches are chemically modified by an esterification reaction, carboxyalkyl starches can be obtained, as indicated above.
[0049] The carboxyalkyl starches are preferably carboxyalkyl (CrC4) starches and more particularly carboxymethyl starches.
[0050] The salts are in particular salts of alkali or alkaline earth metal such as Na, K, Li, NH4, of a quaternary ammonium or of an organic amine such as mono, di or triethanolamine.
[0051] Carboxyalkyl starches are obtained by grafting carboxyalkyl groups onto one or more alcohol functions of starch, in particular by reaction of starch and sodium monochloroacetate in an alkaline medium.
[0052] The carboxyalkyl groups are generally attached via an ether function, more particularly on carbon 1.
[0053] The degree of substitution preferably ranges from 0.1 to 1 and more particularly from 0.15 to 0.5. The degree of substitution is defined according to the present invention as being the average number of hydroxyl groups substituted by an ester or ether group (in this case ether for carboxymethyl starches) per monosaccharide unit of the polysaccharide.
[0054] The carboxyalkyl starches preferably comprise units of the following formula:
[0055] [Chem.l] ÇH2OCHaCOOX CHpCHgCOOX / .........O J......... / \ / \ (OH) : OH) IM / M / 1 -----f--Q----------- 1---------- OH OH
[0056] X denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal such as Na, K 1 / 2, Li, NH4, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine. Preferably X denotes a Na+ ion.
[0057] The carboxyalkyl starches which can be used according to the present invention are preferably non-pregelatinized carboxyalkyl starches.
[0058] The carboxyalkyl starches which can be used according to the present invention are preferably partially or totally crosslinked carboxyalkyl starches.
[0059] The carboxyalkyl starches that can be used according to the present invention are preferably sodium salts of carboxyalkyl starches, in particular a sodium salt of potato carboxymethyl starch sold in particular under the name PRIMOJEL by the company DMV International. More than 95% of the particles of this starch have a diameter of less than 100 microns and more particularly less than 65 microns.
[0060] Alternatively, amphoteric starches may also be used; these amphoteric starches contain one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; preferably they are linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of the carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type and preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of the primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.
[0061] The amphoteric starches are in particular chosen from the compounds of the following formulas:
[0062] [Chem.2] 'RR CH —CH-COOM St-O-(CH2)"N' X CH — CH-COOM 'RR (I)
[0063] [Chem.3] COOM R ÇH--CH-COOM St-O-(CH,.)-N "R (II)
[0064] [Chem.4] W St-O—CH2--CH-COOM (III)
[0065] [Chem.5] 'R "R XN / St-O —CH — CH2— COOM (IV)
[0066] formulas in which:
[0067] St-0 represents a starch molecule,
[0068] R, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical,
[0069] R', identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or a -COOH group,
[0070] n is an integer equal to 2 or 3,
[0071] M, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkali-earth metal such as Na, K, Li, NH4, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine,
[0072] R" represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0073] These compounds are notably described in US patents 5,455,340 and US 4,017,460.
[0074] As amphoteric starches, starches of formulae (I) or (II) may be used in particular. More particularly, starches modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid are used, i.e. starches of formula (I) or (II) in which R, R', R" and M represent a hydrogen atom and n is equal to 2. In particular, potato starch modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with soda, marketed under the reference STRUCTURE SOLANACE by the company NATIONAL STARCH, may be mentioned.
[0075] Among the starches and derivatives suitable for the invention, mention may also be made of:
[0076] - modified starch (amylopectin / amylose crosslinked by epichlorohydrin) sold under the trade name “Insoluble non-mucilaginous rice starch” by the company REMY,
[0077] - native waxy maize starch (essentially amylopectin) sold under the name commercial mination “WAXY MAIS” by BLATTMANN,
[0078] - modified and precooked wheat starch sold under the trade name “MIDSOL KRISP” by MIDWEST GRAIN PRODUCTS,
[0079] - modified and refined wheat starch sold under the trade name “MIDSOL ADHERE” by MIDWEST GRAIN PRODUCTS,
[0080] - modified wheat starch powder sold under the trade name “MIDSOL 35” by MIDWEST GRAIN PRODUCTS,
[0081] - modified potato starch sold under the trade name “PERFECTAGEL MPT” by AVEBE,
[0082] - the product “corn starch B” sold by ROQUETTE FRERES, the product “corn starch” sold by NATIONAL STARCH.
[0083] According to one variant, a monostarch phosphate; a glycerol starch; a distarch phosphate esterified with sodium trimetaphosphate; a phosphated distarch phosphate; an acetylated distarch phosphate; a starch acetate esterified with acetic anhydride; a starch acetate esterified with vinyl acetate; an acetylated distarch adipate; an acetylated distarch glycerol; a hydroxypropyl starch; a hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate; a hydroxypropyl distarch glycerol; a sodium starch octenyl succinate, and any of their mixtures, are used.
[0084] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 0.01% by weight of starch relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0085] Preferably, the amount of starch in the composition is between 0.01% and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 8% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 6% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 5% by weight, preferably between 1% and 4% by weight, even more preferably between 2 and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cellulose particles
[0086] The cellulose particles that can be used according to the invention are preferably spherical (cellulose beads).
[0087] For the purposes of the present invention, spherical particles are understood to mean solid or porous particles having a circularity parameter of at least 0.95. The circularity parameter is defined as the ratio of the circumference of a disk having the same area as the particle to the perimeter of the particle. A value of 1 characterizes perfectly spherical particles.
[0088] They preferably have an average size of less than 40 pm, preferably ranging from 1 to 20 pm, more preferably from 2 to 10 pm.
[0089] Among the cellulose particles that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of those sold by the company Daito under the brand name CELLULOBEADS® such as CELLULOBEADS USF® (D
[50] = 4 pm), CELLULOBEADS D-5® (D
[50] < 10 pm), CELLULOBEADS D-10® (D
[50] < 15 pm), CELLULOBEADS D-30® (D
[50] < 30 pm).
[0090] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 0.01% by weight of cellulose particles relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0091] Preferably, the cellulose particles are present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.03% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.04% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.06% to 0.5% by weight, advantageously from 0.08% to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Perlite
[0092] Perlite is a natural glass of volcanic origin, light gray or shiny black in color, resulting from the rapid cooling of lava and which appears in the form of small particles resembling pearls.
[0093] The perlites that can be used according to the invention are generally aluminosilicates of volcanic origin and have the following composition:
[0094] 70.0-75.0% by weight of silica SiO2
[0095] 12.0-15.0% by weight of aluminum oxide A12O3
[0096] 3.0-5.0% sodium oxide Na2O
[0097] 3.0-5.0% potassium oxide K2O
[0098] 0.5-2% iron oxide Fe2O3
[0099] 0.2-0.7% magnesium oxide MgO
[0100] 0.5-1.5% calcium oxide CaO, and
[0101] 0.05- 0.15% titanium oxide TiO2.
[0102] Preferably, the perlite particles used according to the invention will be in porous expanded form.
[0103] The perlite is ground, dried and then calibrated in a first step. The product obtained, called Perlite Ore, is gray in color and of the order of 100 μm in size. The Perlite Ore is then expanded (1000°C / 2 seconds) to give more or less white particles. When the temperature reaches 850-900°C, the water trapped in the structure of the material vaporizes and causes the material to expand relative to its original volume. The expanded perlite particles in accordance with the invention can be obtained by the expansion process described in US patent 5,002,698.
[0104] Preferably, the perlite particles used will be ground; in this case they are called Expanded Milled Perlite (EMP).
[0105] They preferably have a particle size defined by a median diameter D50 ranging from 0.5 to 50 pm and preferably from 0.5 to 40 pm.
[0106] Preferably, the perlite particles according to the invention have a particle size distribution such that at least 50% of the particles have a size less than 20 μm. In addition, they preferably have a particle size distribution such that 90% by weight of the particles have a size less than 55 μm and preferably a size less than 40 μm. It is further preferred that 90% by weight of the particles have a size greater than 5 μm.
[0107] Preferably, the perlite particles used have an unpacked apparent density at 25°C ranging from 10 to 400 kg / m3 (DIN Standard 53468) and preferably from 10 to 300 kg / m3.
[0108] In particular, expanded perlite particles sold under the trade names OPTIMAT 1430 OR® or OPTIMAT 2550® by the company WORLD MINERALS or the commercial products GK-110 THIN® and GK-110 EXTRA THIN® by the company LANGFANG XINDAZHONG FILTER and the company HENAN ZHONGNAN FILTER AID will be used.
[0109] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 0.01% by weight of perlite relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0110] Preferably, the perlite is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.03% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.04 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.06 to 0.5% by weight, advantageously from 0.08% to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Lauroyl lysine
[0111] The composition according to the invention comprises lauroyl lysine or one of its salts.
[0112] Lauroyl lysine refers to the compound of the following formula:
[0113] [Chem.6] O
[0114] When present in salt form, lauroyl lysine has, for example, the following formula:
[0115] [Chem.7] O
[0116] Lauroyl lysine is obtained by reaction of lauric acid and lysine. It is an interesting ingredient for the formulation of cosmetic products such as makeup or skincare products.
[0117] This compound is typically in powder form. Lauroyl lysine or one of its salts is generally used as a filler and / or non-coloring base.
[0118] Lauroyl lysine is for example marketed under the name AMIHOPE LL by Ajinomoto.
[0119] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 0.01% by weight of lauroyl lysine or one of its salts relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0120] Preferably, lauroyl lysine or one of its salts is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.03% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.04 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.06 to 0.5% by weight, advantageously from 0.08% to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Boron nitride
[0121] Boron nitride is a chemical compound with the formula BN that exists in several polymorphic forms.
[0122] In particular, the boron nitride according to the invention is hexagonal in shape and is in the form of a white powder.
[0123] This compound has good matting properties.
[0124] Boron nitride is for example marketed by:
[0125] - MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS under the name SOFTOUCH BORON NITRIDE POWDER CC6058
[0126] - MERCK under the name RONAFLAIR BORONEIGE SQ-6
[0127] - SAINT GOBAIN CERAMICS under the name SP8 or
[0128] - MIZUSHIMA FERROALLOY under the name BORON NITRIDE SHP 3
[0129] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 0.01% by weight of boron nitride relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0130] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises between 0.01% and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 8% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.2% and 3% by weight of boron nitride, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises between 0.1 and 1% by weight, advantageously between 0.3% and 0.8% by weight of boron nitride relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase
[0131] The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase, which forms the dispersed phase of the composition.
[0132] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 10% to 60% by weight, preferably from 15% to 50% by weight, preferably from 25 to 45% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0133] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises more than 20% by weight, or even more than 25% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0134] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water, such as for example: Vittel water, waters from Vichy basin, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water and Tercis-les-Bains water, Avène water.
[0135] In addition to water, the aqueous phase may also comprise at least one water-soluble solvent.
[0136] In the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).
[0137] The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can also be volatile.
[0138] Among the water-soluble solvents which may be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may in particular be made of monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes, and preferably monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol.
[0139] Preferably, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises a total content of mono-alcohols comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms of between 0 and 15% by weight (limits included) relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0140] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a total content of monoalcohols comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms of between 0 and 10% by weight (limits included), advantageously between 0 and 5% by weight (limits included), relative to the total weight of the composition. C2-C8 polyol
[0141] The composition may also comprise at least one C2-C8 polyol, preferably C3-C6, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups.
[0142] Preferably the polyol is chosen from glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerin, 1,2-octanediol (caprylyl glycol), and mixtures thereof,
[0143] Preferably, the polyol content represents from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more particularly from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. Fat phase
[0144] The composition according to the invention comprises a fatty phase, which forms the continuous phase of the composition.
[0145] It may comprise an oil, and / or another fatty substance such as a fatty acid, a wax, a solid fatty alcohol, a pasty compound. Oil
[0146] Oil is understood to mean any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). An oil suitable for the invention may be volatile or non-volatile. The oil may be hydrocarbon or silicone.
[0147] A hydrocarbon oil suitable for the invention may be an animal hydrocarbon oil, a vegetable hydrocarbon oil, or a synthetic hydrocarbon oil.
[0148] By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. Hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from silicone oil and fluorinated oil.
[0149] It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil is free of heteroatoms such as nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus.
[0150] The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0151] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).
[0152] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 103 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).
[0153] As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used, mention may in particular be made of:
[0154] (i) hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C24, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, almond oil and in particular sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, musk rose, coconut oil; or even the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel,
[0155] (ii) synthetic ethers, for example linear or branched, symmetrical or unsymmetrical dialkyl ethers containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE);
[0156] (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as vaseline oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane and their mixtures (mineral oils);
[0157] (iv) synthetic esters such as oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R + R' is > 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate such as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN®" or " Witconol TN® » by the company WITCO or « TEGOSOFT TN® » by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate as the commercial product sold under the name « X-TEND 226® » by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate,oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name “Dub Dis®” by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxyl esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates such as linear C12-C13 dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI® by the company ENICHEM AUGUSTA INDUSTRIALE as well as linear C14-C15 dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETL® by the same company; acetates; ,
[0158] (y) fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched carbon chain and / or unsaturated having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;
[0159] (vi) higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;
[0160] (vii) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate such as the product sold under the name “Cetiol CC®” by the company Cognis, or propylene carbonate;
[0161] (viii) fatty amides such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate such as the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL 205® from Ajinomoto and mixtures thereof.
[0162] As volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopars® or Permetyls®, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0163] Mention may also be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO2007 / 068371 or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil. Mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (Cl 1) and n-tridecane (Cl3) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 of the company Cognis.
[0164] Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (Cl2) and n-tetradecane (Cl4) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97® and PARAFOL 14-97®, as well as their mixtures.
[0165] Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Soit® by the company SNELL, can also be used.
[0166] The non-volatile silicone oils may be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.
[0167] As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8.106 m2 / s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
[0168] Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of formula general (X):
[0169] [Chem. 8] CH • H; ,................If........O.............SÙCH i R (X)
[0170] where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and one or more hydrogen atoms of which may be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.
[0171] Among the oils of general formula (X), we can cite: 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, 3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, and 3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, corresponding to the oils of formula (X) for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group.
[0172] Preferably, the silicone oil is a non-volatile PDMS. Other fats
[0173] Another fatty substance (or lipophilic compound) can be chosen from:
[0174] - fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;
[0175] - waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, Camauba or Candellila wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, microwaxes, in particular polyethylene waxes, and Fischer-Tropsch waxes;
[0176] - pasty compounds, such as butters of vegetable origin;
[0177] - fatty alcohols solid at room temperature with a linear carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol or cetylstearyl alcohol;
[0178] - and their mixtures
[0179] Generally speaking, a wax considered in the context of the present invention is a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, and having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, which can go up to 200°C and, in particular, up to 120°C.
[0180] The melting point of a solid fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “DSC Q100” by the company TA Instruments with the software “TA Universal Analysis”.
[0181] The measurement protocol is as follows:
[0182] A sample of solid fatty body of approximately 5 mg is placed in a crucible "hermetic aluminum capsule"
[0183] When the solid fatty body is soft (pasty fatty body), the sample is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from 20°C to 80°C, at a heating rate of 2°C / minute up to 80°C, then left at the isotherm of 80°C for 20 minutes, then cooled from 80°C to -80°C at a cooling rate of 2°C / minute, and finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from - 80°C to 20°C at a heating rate of 2°C / minute.
[0184] The melting temperature value of the solid fatty body is the value of the peak of the most endothermic peak of the melting curve observed, representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.
[0185] Non-ionic hydrocarbon or silicone surfactants
[0186] The composition of the invention may further comprise at least one non-ionic, hydrocarbon or silicone surfactant.
[0187] Said surfactant(s) are chosen such that the composition according to the invention is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.
[0188] Preferably, the surfactant has an HLB (hydrophilic / lipophilic balance) of less than or equal to 8, more particularly less than or equal to 7, preferably between 1 and 6. The HLB value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.
[0189] As regards silicone surfactants, mention may be made of alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols with a pendant alkyl or alkoxy chain or at the end of the silicone skeleton having, for example, from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; dimethicone copolyols, which are more particularly oxypropylenated and / or oxyethylene polydimethyl methyl siloxanes, as well as crosslinked solid elastomeric organopolysiloxanes comprising at least one oxyalkylenated group, and mixtures thereof.
[0190] Among the particularly preferred silicone surfactants, mention may be made of: dimethicone copolyols such as, for example, those sold under the names KF-6015 (PEG-3 dimethicone), KF-6016 (PEG-9 methyl ether dimethicone), KF-6017 (PEG-10 dimethicone), KF-6028 (PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone), KF-6050 L (PEG / PPG 18 / 18 dimethicone in cyclopentasiloxane), X-22-6711D (dimethicone PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone) by the company Shin-Etsu; alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as, for example, those sold under the names KF-6038 (Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone), dimethicone copolyols marketed under the names Dow Corning 3225CO (PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE in a mixture of cyclotetrasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane), DC 5225 C Formulation Aid (PEG / PPG-18 / 18 dimethicone in cyclopentasiloxane); or the product marketed under the name SF 1528 GE (mixture of PEG / PPG-20 / 15 Dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane) by Momentive Performance Materials.
[0191] It is also possible to use alkyl-dimethicone copolyols such as Lauryl PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Methicone (which is more particularly an alkoxylated derivative of Lauryl Methicone containing on average 18 moles of ethylene oxide and 18 moles of propylene oxide, sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Corning; cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 Dimethicone (which is more particularly a copolymer of Cetyl Dimethicone and an alkoxylated derivative of dimethicone containing on average 10 moles of ethylene oxide and 1 mole of propylene oxide) such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt as well as the mixture of cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 Dimethicone, isostearate of polyglycerol (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt.
[0192] Mention may also be made, as emulsion surfactants, in particular for water-in-oil emulsions, of crosslinked solid elastomeric organopolysiloxanes comprising at least one oxyalkylenated group, such as those obtained according to the procedure of Examples 3, 4 and 8 of document US-A-5,412,004 and of the examples of document US-A-5,811,487, in particular the product of Example 3 (synthesis example) of patent US-A-5,412,004, and such as the products marketed under the references KSG 21, KSG-210, by the company Shin Etsu.
[0193] The non-ionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl(C8-C30) ethers, ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide) alkyl(C8-C30) esters; polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid polyesters, preferably polyhydroxylated, C12-C20, having from 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide; sorbitan alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters; (poly)glycerol alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters and mixtures thereof.
[0194] As other surfactants which can be used, mention may be made of fatty acid polyesters, preferably polyhydroxylated, C12-C20, polyoxyalkylenated, having from 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, having water-in-oil emulsifying properties.
[0195] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one silicone non-ionic surfactant.
[0196] Advantageously, the silicone surfactant(s) are chosen from dimethicone copolyols, alkyl dimethicone copolyols, in particular C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols, alone or in mixtures.
[0197] The content of silicone or hydrocarbon non-ionic surfactant(s) more particularly represents a content ranging from 10 to 40% by weight, preferably from 15 to 35% by weight, and preferably ranging from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition. C-glycoside derivative
[0198] The composition according to the invention may also comprise a C-glycoside derivative.
[0199] The C-glycoside (or C-glycoside derivative) according to the invention is preferably of the following general formula (A):
[0200] [Chem.9] y<-R (HAS)
[0201] in which
[0202] R represents an alkyl radical, saturated in C1 to C10, in particular in C1 to C4, and which can be optionally substituted by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR"2, with R"2 being an alkyl radical, saturated in C1-C4,
[0203] S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and / or furanose form and of L and / or D series, said mono- or polysaccharide possibly being substituted by a hydroxyl group which is obligatorily free, and optionally one or more amine function(s) which are optionally protected, and
[0204] X represents a radical chosen from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and in particular a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-, and
[0205] the S-CH2-X bond represents a bond of C-anomeric nature, which can be a or [3, as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical and geometric isomers.
[0206] The C-glycosides of formula (V) useful for implementing the invention are in particular those for which R denotes a saturated linear alkyl radical of C1 to C6, in particular of C1 to C4, preferentially of C1 to C2 and more preferentially a methyl radical.
[0207] Among the alkyl groups suitable for implementing the invention, mention may in particular be made of methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl and cyclohexyl groups.
[0208] According to one embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use a C-glycoside derivative corresponding to formula (V) for which S can represent a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide containing up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and / or furanose form and of L and / or D series, said mono- or polysaccharide having at least one hydroxyl function which must be free and / or optionally one or more amine functions which must be protected, X and R moreover retaining all the definitions previously given. Advantageously, a monosaccharide of the invention can be chosen from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose, L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and advantageously denotes D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose.More particularly, a polysaccharide of the invention containing up to 6 sugar units may be chosen from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a disaccharide combining a uronic acid chosen from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine chosen from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine, N-acetyl-Dglucosamine, an oligosaccharide containing at least one xylose which may advantageously be chosen from xylobiose, methyl-6-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose and in particular xylobiose which is composed of two xylose molecules linked by a 1-4 bond. More particularly, S may represent a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose, D-maltose and in particular D-xylose.Preferably, a C-glycoside derivative of formula (V) is used for which: R denotes an unsubstituted linear C1-C4, in particular C1-C2, alkyl radical, in particular methyl; S represents a monosaccharide as described above and in particular chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose; X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, and preferably a -CH(OH)- group.
[0209] Acceptable salts of the compounds described in the present invention include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. For example, mention may be made of salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid, boric acid. Mention may also be made of salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic, or phosphonic acid groups. These may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids or aromatic acids. These acids may further comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. These include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.When the compound of formula (V) comprises an acid group, the neutralization of the acid group(s) may be carried out by an inorganic base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH)2, NH4 OH, Mg(OH)2 or Zn(OH)2; or by an organic base such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more atoms. nitrogen and / or oxygen and may therefore comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functions; in particular, mention may be made of amino-2-methyl-2-propanol, triethanolamine, di-methylamino-2-propanol, 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol. Mention may also be made of lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine. Acceptable solvates for the compounds described in the present invention include conventional solvates such as those formed during the last stage of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. By way of example, mention may be made of solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol.
[0210] By way of illustration and without limitation of the C-glycoside derivatives more particularly suitable for the invention, the following derivatives may in particular be mentioned:
[0211] - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
[0212] - CaD-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,
[0213] - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane,
[0214] - CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane,
[0215] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)-propan-2-one,
[0216] - l-(CaD-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one,
[0217] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)-propan-2-one,
[0218] - l-(CaL-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one,
[0219] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane,
[0220] - l-(CaD-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane,
[0221] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane,
[0222] - l-(CaL-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane,
[0223] - l-(C-[3-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane,
[0224] - l-(CaD-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane,
[0225] - l-(C-[3-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane,
[0226] - l-(CaD-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane,
[0227] - l-(C-[3-D-fucofuranosyl)-propan-2-one,
[0228] - l-(CaD-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one,
[0229] - l-(C-[3-L-fucofuranosyl)-propan-2-one,
[0230] - l-(CaL-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one,
[0231] - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
[0232] - CaD-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,
[0233] - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane,
[0234] - CaD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane,
[0235] their isomers and their mixtures.
[0236] According to one embodiment, C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane or CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, and better still C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, can be advantageously used for the preparation of a composition according to the invention.
[0237] A C-glycoside derivative suitable for the invention can in particular be obtained by the synthesis method described in document WO 02 / 051828.
[0238] In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, the INCI name of which is HY-DROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL, notably marketed under the name MEXORYL SBB® or MEXORYL SCN® by NOVEAL. MEXORYL SBB®, for example, contains 35% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol in 40% by weight of water and 25% of propylene glycol.
[0239] The composition according to the invention may comprise from 3 to 25% by weight of C-glycoside compound, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 8 to 15% relative to the total weight of the composition. Other ingredients
[0240] The composition may contain one or more of the active ingredients or excipients usual in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as moisturizing agents; emollients; gelling agents, for example natural gelling agents; active ingredients; antioxidants; perfumes; film-forming agents; colorants; sequestering agents; electrolytes; pH adjusters; fillers; preservatives; antioxidants; plant extracts and mixtures thereof. The quantities of these different excipients are those conventionally used in the fields considered. In particular, these quantities vary according to the desired purpose and may, for example, range from 0.01% to 20%, and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
[0241] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible active ingredient(s) or excipient(s) added to the composition according to the invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.
[0242] The composition in accordance with the invention can be obtained in a conventional manner by a person skilled in the art.
[0243] The expressions “between ... and ...” and “ranging from ... to ...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.
[0244] The following examples will allow a better understanding of the invention, without however being limiting in nature. The raw materials are named by their chemical or INCI name. The quantities indicated are in % by weight of raw materials relative to the total weight of the composition (% w / w), unless otherwise stated. Examples
[0245] Example 1: Preparation of comparative compositions and of a composition according to the invention
[0246] Composition II according to the invention comprises starch, cellulose, perlite, lauroyl lysine and boron nitride.
[0247] Comparative compositions C1 to C6 are respectively free of cellulose, boron nitride, lauroyl lysine, perlite, starch and lauroyl lysine.
[0248] Inventive composition II and comparative compositions C1 to C6 are prepared as follows:
[0249] The fatty phase and the aqueous phase containing the xanthan gum are heated to 75°C. The aqueous phase is slowly incorporated to achieve emulsification. Cooling is initiated and Mexoryl SCN (HYDROXYPROPYL TE-TRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL) is added. The mixture of starch and fillers is added at room temperature and dispersed until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
[0250] [Tables 1] Ingredients (% w / w) (% w / w) II Cl C2 C3 C4 C5 C6 POLYMETHYLENE WAX WITH MELTING POINT APPROXIMATELY 64°C CIREWAX 60 (CIREBELLE) 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 OILS 11.5 11.5 11.5 11.5 11.5 11.5 11.5 LAURYLPEG-9 POLYDIME- THYLSILOXYETHYL DL METHICONE KF-6038 (SHIN ETSU) 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 MIXTURE OF CROSSLINKED POLY-ALKYLENE POLY DIME-THYLSILOXANE AND POLY DIMETHYLSILOXANE (6 CST) 27 / 73 KSG-210 (SHIN ETSU) 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 MICROBIOLOGICALLY CLEAN DEIONIZED WATER QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINIC ACID, TRISODIUM SALT IN 30% AQUEOUS SOLUTION NATRLQUEST E30 (INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 WATER-SOLUBLE ACTIVE INGREDIENTS 2.9 2.9 2.9 2.9 2.9 2.9 2.9 HYDROPHILIC SOLVENTS 5.7 5.7 5.7 5.7 5.7 5.7 5.7 5.7 OCTANE- 1,2-DIOL OCTIOL (MINASOLVE) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 XANTHANE GUM KELTROL CG (CP KELCO) 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 2-(2-HYDROXYPROPYL)-TETR AHYDROPYRAN-3,4,5-TRIOL IN 35% SOLUTION IN WATER / PROPYLENE GLYCOL 60 / 40 MEXORYL SCN (NOVEAL) 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 CELLULOSE SOLID BEADS (SIZE <15pM) CELLULOBEADS D-10 (DAITO KASEI KOGYO) 0.1 0 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 BORON NITRIDE (5-15pM) SOFTOUCH BORON NITRIDE POWDER CC6058 (MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS) 0.5 0.5 0 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 N-LAUROYL L-LYSINE AMIHOPE LL (AJINOMOTO) 0.1 0.1 0.1 0 0.1 0.1 0 EXPANDED PERLITE (25 pM) OPTIMAT 2550 OR (IMERYS) 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0 0.1 0.1 CORN STARCH: AMY-LOPECTIN / AMYLOSE BEAUTE-BY-ROQUETTE ST005 (ROQUETTE) 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 0 2.5 SILICA SILYLATE DOWSIL VM-2270 AEROGEL FINE PARTICLES (DOW) 0 0 0 0 0 0 0.2
[0251] Example 2: Evaluation of the comparative compositions and of the composition according to the invention Sensory evaluation:
[0252] A sensory evaluation of compositions II and Cl to C6 was carried out on a panel of 20 trained people. The evaluation consists of applying 50 μL of composition to the back of the hand. The following sensory criteria are then noted: softness, lightness, film thickness, freshness, speed of penetration, matte effect, blurring of imperfections.
[0253] A score from 1 to 5 is awarded for each criterion:
[0254] 1: Absence / 2: slight / 3: medium / 4: strong / 5: very strong
[0255] The results are detailed in the table below.
[0256] [Tables2] Composition Softness Lightness Film thickness Freshness Penetration speed Matt effect Blurring of imperfections II 4 3 4 3 3 4 3 Cl 2 3 4 3 2 4 3 C2 4 3 4 3 3 3 2 C3 3 2 4 3 2 4 3 C4 4 3 4 3 4 3 2 C5 3 3 2 3 3 3 3 C6 2 3 4 3 4 4 3
[0257] Following the sensory evaluation, the following results are observed:
[0258] - composition II is considered soft and light, with a thickness effect under the finger spreading, a mattifying effect, and a blurring effect on imperfections. In addition, a fluffing test was carried out on 6 volunteers by an expert beautician, and no fluffing was observed;
[0259] - composition Cl is considered rougher to the touch and more difficult to spread on the skin than composition II;
[0260] - composition C2 is considered to be more shiny and leaving a less smooth skin texture and homogeneous than composition II;
[0261] - composition C3 is considered thicker and more difficult to spread on the skin of the composition II;
[0262] - composition C4 is considered too slippery, and shinier than composition II;
[0263] - composition C5 is considered too slippery, too flexible, too light, and more shiny that composition II;
[0264] - composition C6 is considered too dry and not soft enough, compared to the com position II. Spectrophotometer evaluation:
[0265] Haze measurements to evaluate the hazing of compositions II and Cl to C6 were carried out.
[0266] The measurements are made on a dry deposit of 25 qm of composition after 1 hour of drying.
[0267] The Haze parameter is defined as a percentage of scattered light relative to the total light passing through a sample.
[0268] The parameter Haze is given by the following relation:
[0269] [Math.l] Haze = 1 n
[0270] with
[0271] - TH = Hemispherical or Total Transmission;
[0272] - TD = Direct Transmission.
[0273] The results are detailed in the table below.
[0274] [Tables3] Composition Measurement of HAZE II 63% Cl 57% C2 45% C3 56% C4 56% C5 51% C6 57%
[0275] The results show that the highest Haze value is obtained in the inventive composition II, and therefore that the combination of starch, cellulose, perlite, lauroyl lysine and boron nitride fillers allows better haze.
[0276] In conclusion, it is shown that the combination of starch, cellulose, perlite, lauroyl lysine and boron nitride fillers is necessary to obtain a light and soft texture, a feeling of thickness under the finger when spreading, a thin and occlusive film, and mattifying and blurring properties for imperfections.
Claims
Claims
1. A cosmetic composition in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising: (a) starch, (b) cellulose particles, (c) perlite, (d) lauroyl lysine or one of its salts, and (e) boron nitride.
2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the amount of starch is between 0.01% and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 8% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 6% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 5% by weight, preferably between 1% and 4% by weight, even more preferably between 2 and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the quantity of cellulose particles is between 0.01% and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.02% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.03% and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.04 and 2% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 1% by weight, even more preferably between 0.06 and 0.5% by weight, advantageously between 0.08% and 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the quantity of perlite is between 0.01% and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.02% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.03% and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.04 and 2% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 1% by weight, even more preferably between 0.06 and 0.5% by weight, advantageously between 0.08% and 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the quantity of lauroyl lysine or one of its salts is between 0.01% and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.02% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.03% and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.04 and 2% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 1% by weight, even more preferably between 0.06 and 0.5% by weight, advantageously between 0.08% and 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the amount of boron nitride is between 0.01% and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 8% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 5% by weight. % by weight, preferably between 0.2% and 3% by weight of boron nitride, even more preferably between 0.1 and 1% by weight, advantageously between 0.3% and 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises from 3 to 25% by weight, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 8 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a C-glycoside derivative of formula (A) in which - R represents a saturated C1 to C10, in particular C1 to C4, alkyl radical and which may be optionally substituted by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR"2, with R"2 being a saturated C1-C4 alkyl radical, - S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and / or furanose form and of the L and / or D series, said mono- or polysaccharide being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group which must be free, and optionally one or more optionally protected amine function(s), and - X represents a radical chosen from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-,-CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and in particular a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-, and - the S-CH2-X bond represents a bond of C-anomeric nature, which can be a or [3, as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical and geometric isomers.,
8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which is a skin care composition, in particular for the skin around the eyes.
9. Use of a composition according to claims 1 to 8, for the care of the skin, in particular the skin around the eyes.
10. A skin care method, in which a composition according to one of claims 1 to 8 is applied to the skin, in particular to the skin around the eyes.
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