PROCESS FOR THE TREATMENT OF KERATIN FIBERS

Abstract

METHOD FOR PROCESSING KERATINIC FIBERS The present invention relates mainly to a method for shaping, preferably smoothing, keratinic fibers such as hair, comprising the following steps: (i) applying a composition A to the keratinic fibers, wherein composition A comprises: (a) at least one organic acid;(ii) the application of a composition B to the keratin fibers, wherein composition B comprises: (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of: glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof and (c) at least one compound, different from compound (b), selected from the group consisting of ketoic acids, their salts and mixtures and (iii) optionally, heating the keratin fibers to a temperature of more than 50 °C, preferably more than 100 °C and, better still, more than 150 °C, once both steps (i) and (ii) have been completed. in which the organic acid (a) is selected from organic acids other than compounds (b) and (c) and in which the process comprises step (i) followed by step (ii) or step (ii) followed by step (i). Figure for the abstract: none;

Description

Title of the invention: METHOD FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS Technical field

[0001] The present invention mainly relates to a method of treating, preferably shaping and, better still, smoothing keratin fibers such as hair. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Shaping keratin fibers such as hair by heating the keratin fibers with an iron is common, making unruly keratin fibers manageable, reducing volume and improving the appearance of the keratin fibers. Such a method of shaping using a heated iron is convenient for quick styling, but the hairstyle only lasts for a short period of time, for example until the next shampoo. Many consumers need a long-lasting shaping method.

[0003] On the other hand, conventional permanent styling methods using a reducing agent and an alkaline agent, as well as an oxidizing agent, with heating, can provide keratin fibers with long-lasting styling, but they have several disadvantages such as long processing time, damage to the keratin fibers and bad odor.

[0004] Until now, certain methods of shaping keratin fibers without using reducing agents and oxidizing agents have been reported.

[0005] For example, document US-A-2023 / 0000742 discloses a semi-permanent hair straightening composition in liquid form with an aqueous base, or in emulsion form with a fatty phase, comprising 15 to 20% by weight of glyoxylic acid and 0.1 to 5% by weight of levulinic acid.

[0006] Furthermore, WO2016 / 100258 discloses a method for shaping keratin fibers comprising: a. providing a pretreatment composition, wherein the pretreatment composition comprises a pretreatment active agent, wherein the pretreatment active agent is selected from the group consisting of maleic anhydride, maleic acid, citric acid, fumaric acid, and mixtures thereof, preferably wherein the pretreatment active agent is selected from the group consisting of maleic anhydride, maleic acid, citric acid, and mixtures thereof; b. applying pretreatment composition to keratin fibers; c. leaving the pretreatment composition on the keratin fibers for a period of 5 minutes to 24 hours; d. providing a crosslinking composition, wherein the crosslinking composition comprises: • from 1% to 20% of one or more protein crosslinking agents and • a cosmetically acceptable support; • preferably including a. applying the crosslinking composition to the keratin fibers; and b. mechanically shaping keratin fibres with a device at a temperature between 50°C and 280°C; c. preferably wherein the process does not include a rinsing step.

[0007] Furthermore, document US-A-2012-312317 discloses a method for semi-permanent hair straightening, comprising:

[0008] a) applying a solution comprising an alpha-keto acid capable of acting as a buffering agent;

[0009] b) keeping the solution in contact with the hair for 15 to 120 minutes;

[0010] c) drying the hair and

[0011] d) straightening the hair with a hair straightener at a temperature of approximately 200 + / - 50°C.

[0012] Furthermore, document JP-A-2019-123701 discloses a method for treating hair comprising: 1. a step of applying a hair treatment agent to the hair containing (a) 13-30% by mass levulinic acid and (b) 1-2% by mass glyoxylic acid, the total content of levulinic acid and glyoxylic acid being 15% by mass or more and the pH being 1.5-3.0; 2. a step to leave the hair; 3. a step of washing the hair with water and 4. a step of straightening the hair with a curling iron or a straightener, a brush or similar at a certain temperature simultaneously with or after drying the hair. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0013] There is always a need to improve the method of shaping keratin fibers.

[0014] An objective of the present invention is to provide an improved method for shaping keratin fibers such as hair, which can provide the keratin fibers with improved shaping effects with longer durability while providing the keratin fibers with better keratin fiber discipline, thereby which facilitates the combing of keratin fibers and facilitates the application of a heated hair iron on the keratin fibers.

[0015] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a method for shaping keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the following steps: i. the application of a composition A to the keratin fibers, in which the composition A comprises:

[0016] (a) at least one organic acid; i. the application of a composition B to the keratin fibers, in which the composition B comprises:

[0017] (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of: glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof and

[0018] (c) at least one compound, different from compound (b), selected from the group consisting of in ketoic acids, their salts and mixtures thereof, i. optionally, heating the keratin fibers to a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C and more preferably more than 150°C, once steps (i) and (ii) are both completed.

[0019] wherein the organic acid (a) is selected from organic acids other than compounds (b) and (c) and

[0020] wherein the method comprises step (i) then step (ii) or step (ii) then step (i).

[0021] The organic acid (a) may be chosen from organic acids having at least one carboxylic acid group.

[0022] The organic acid (a) may be chosen from α-hydroxy acids, acidic amino acids and mixtures thereof.

[0023] The organic acid (a) may be chosen from glycolic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, glutamic acid, aspartic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0024] The amount of the organic acid(s) in composition A may range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 15% by weight and, better still, from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0025] The amount of compound(s) (b) in composition B may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0026] Compound (c) may be selected from levulinic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof.

[0027] The amount of compound (c) in composition B may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more and, more preferably, 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0028] The weight ratio of compound(s) (b) to compound(s) (c) included in composition B may range from 1:1 to 10:1, preferably from 1.5:1 to 7:1 and, more preferably, from 2:1 to 5:1.

[0029] The method according to the present invention may not include an application of ammonia or thiol compound to the keratin fibers.

[0030] The method according to the present invention may not include an application of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent to the keratin fibers.

[0031] Compositions A and B may further comprise water.

[0032] The present invention also relates to a kit for shaping, preferably smoothing keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:

[0033] a composition A, comprising: a. at least one organic acid and

[0034] a composition B, comprising: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of: glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof and b. at least one compound, different from compound (b), selected from the group consisting of ketoic acids, their salts and their mixtures,

[0035] wherein (a) the organic acid is selected from organic acids other than compounds (b) and (c).

[0036] The present invention also relates to a use of a combination of a composition A and a composition B, for shaping, preferably smoothing keratin fibers such as hair, in which

[0037] composition A comprises: a. at least one organic acid and

[0038] composition B comprises: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of: glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof and b. at least one compound, different from compound (b), selected from the group consisting of ketoic acids, their salts and their mixtures,

[0039] wherein (a) the organic acid is selected from organic acids other than compounds (b) and (c). Best mode for carrying out the invention

[0040] After extensive research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to To provide a method for shaping keratin fibers, which can provide keratin fibers with improved shaping effects with longer durability, with the application of two different compositions, a composition A and a composition B, wherein composition A comprises at least one organic acid, and composition B comprises at least one glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof and at least one keto acid or a salt thereof.

[0041] The present invention also relates to a method for shaping, preferably smoothing, keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the following steps: i. the application of a composition A to the keratin fibers, in which the composition A comprises:

[0042] (a) at least one organic acid; i. the application of a composition B to the keratin fibers, in which the composition B comprises:

[0043] (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of: glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof and

[0044] (c) at least one compound, different from compound (b), selected from the group consisting of in ketoic acids, their salts and their mixtures, i. optionally, heating the keratin fibers to a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C and more preferably more than 150°C, once steps (i) and (ii) are both completed.

[0045] in which the organic acid (a) is chosen from organic acids other than compounds (b) and (c) and

[0046] wherein the method comprises step (i) then step (ii) or step (ii) then step (i).

[0047] The present invention can improve a method of shaping keratin fibers such as hair, with the application of two different compositions, composition A and composition B, by providing improved smoothing effects.

[0048] The shaping of keratin fibers, such as hair, here includes the straightening or curling of the keratin fibers.

[0049] The present invention can provide keratin fibers such as hair with longer-lasting shaping effects, preferably smoothing effects. Thus, the present invention can lengthen or prolong the shaping effects for keratin fibers. In particular, the present invention can further maintain the shaped shape of the keratin fibers, or can prevent or reduce the loss over time of the shaped shape of the keratin fibers.

[0050] For example, if the keratin fibers are originally wavy, the present invention can provide better prevention against keratin fibers returning to their original wavy shape, after shaping the keratin fibers, especially after shampooing.

[0051] The present invention can cause less damage to keratin fibers compared to conventional shaping methods, because the present invention does not need to use reducing / oxidizing agents. Therefore, it can be easy to comb the keratin fibers treated by the present invention. Thus, the keratin fibers treated by the present invention can be easy to manage.

[0052] Furthermore, the present invention can use little or no ammonia or thiol compound, and therefore, the odor during the use of the present invention can be reduced compared to conventional methods that require the use of ammonia or a thiol compound. In addition, the present invention can have good ease of use, for example, a short processing time.

[0053] The present invention will now be described in detail. [Process]

[0054] The present invention relates to a process for shaping keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the following steps: i. the application of a composition A to the keratin fibers, in which the composition A comprises:

[0055] (a) at least one organic acid; i. the application of a composition B to the keratin fibers, in which the composition B comprises:

[0056] (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of: glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof and

[0057] (c) at least one compound, different from compound (b), selected from the group consisting of in ketoic acids, their salts and their mixtures, i. optionally, heating the keratin fibers to a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C and more preferably more than 150°C, once steps (i) and (ii) are both completed.

[0058] in which the organic acid (a) is chosen from organic acids other than compounds (b) and (c) and

[0059] wherein the method comprises step (i) then step (ii) or step (ii) then step (i).

[0060] The method according to the present invention is intended for shaping keratin fibers, such as hair, preferably shaping for a long period and, even better, shaping even after shampooing. In this sense, the The method according to the present invention may be a semi-permanent shaping method. {Step (i)}

[0061] Step (i) consists of applying a composition A to the keratin fibers. Composition A will be described in detail later.

[0062] The application of composition A can be carried out by any means, such as a brush and a comb.

[0063] The bath ratio of composition A applied to the keratin fibers can range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and is preferably between 0.3 and 2. The expression "bath ratio" is intended to designate the weight ratio between the total weight of the composition applied and the total weight of the keratin fibers.

[0064] The amount of composition A applied to the keratin fibers is not particularly limited, but generally ranges from 0.1 g to 1 g relative to 1 g of keratin fibers.

[0065] In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratin fibers are cleaned before step (i). This cleaning step may be carried out, for example, by shampooing the keratin fibers and then rinsing the keratin fibers. After rinsing, the keratin fibers may be dried. It is preferable that the keratin fibers are wet just before step (i). The cleaning step is preferably carried out once before the method of the present invention is carried out.

[0066] It may be possible, after the application of composition A, to leave the keratin fibers as they are for a certain time; generally from 1 second to 10 minutes, preferably from 5 seconds to 5 minutes, and, even better, from 10 seconds to 3 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow composition A to penetrate into the keratin fibers.

[0067] Composition A may or may not be rinsed from the keratin fibers after step (i). In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratin fibers are rinsed with water to rinse the applied composition A from the keratin fibers after step (i). {Step (ii)}

[0068] Step (ii) consists of applying a composition B to the keratin fibers. Composition B will be described in detail later.

[0069] The application of the composition can be carried out by any means, such as a brush or a comb.

[0070] The bath ratio of the composition applied to the keratin fibers can range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5 and is, preferably, respectively between 0.3 and 2. The expression "bath ratio" is intended to designate the weight ratio between the total weight of the composition applied and the total weight of the keratin fibers.

[0071] The amount of composition B applied to the keratin fibers is not particularly limited, but generally ranges from 0.1 g to 1 g relative to 1 g of keratin fibers.

[0072] In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratin fibers are cleaned before step (ii). This cleaning step may be carried out, for example, by shampooing the keratin fibers and then rinsing the keratin fibers. After rinsing, the keratin fibers may be dried. It is preferable that the keratin fibers are wet just before step (ii).

[0073] It may be possible, after the application of composition B, to leave the keratin fibers as they are for a certain time; generally from 1 second to 30 minutes, preferably from 5 seconds to 20 minutes, and, better still, from 10 seconds to 15 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow composition B to penetrate into the keratin fibers.

[0074] Composition B may or may not be rinsed from the keratin fibers after step (ii). In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratin fibers are rinsed with water to rinse the applied composition B from the keratin fibers after step (ii).

[0075] In a preferred embodiment, there is no cleaning step between steps (i) and (ii).

[0076] In one embodiment of the present invention, the method comprises step (i) and then step (ii), in that order. For this embodiment, it is preferable that there is no rinsing step between step (i) and step (ii).

[0077] In one embodiment of the present invention, the method comprises step (ii) and then step (i), in that order. For this embodiment, it is preferable that there is a rinsing step between step (ii) and step (i).

[0078] In another preferred embodiment, the method comprises step (i) then step (ii) then step (i), in that order. For this embodiment, it is preferable that there is no rinsing step between step (i) and step (ii) and that there is a rinsing step between step (ii) and step (i). {Step (iii)}

[0079] Step (iii) is an optional step. Step (iii) is heating the keratin fibers to a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C and more preferably more than 150°C. Step (iii) may be carried out once both steps (i) and (ii) are completed.

[0080] In one embodiment, the keratin fibers are dried just before step (iii). The drying of the keratin fibers can be carried out with a conventional drying means such as a hair dryer.

[0081] In step (iii), the keratin fibers, which are preferably dry, are heated to a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C and more preferably more than 150°C, with a heating element, preferably a heating iron or a heating curling iron. This temperature may be less than 250°C, preferably less than 240°C and more preferably less than 230°C. Thus, this temperature may be more than 50°C and less than 250°C, preferably more than 100°C and less than 240°C and more preferably more than 150°C and less than 230°C.

[0082] Heating may be carried out using conventional means, such as the application of a heating iron or a heated curling iron or a hair dryer.

[0083] In addition, the shaping may be performed by providing the keratin fibers with any mechanical force such as mechanical tension. The mechanical force may be applied to the keratin fibers by any shaping means to deform the keratin fibers and bring them into a desired shape. For example, the mechanical power may be provided by at least one shaping means selected from the group consisting of at least one iron, at least one heated curling iron, and a combination thereof. Any conventional iron or heated curling iron may be used as the shaping means.

[0084] The shaping means may comprise at least one heater. Thus, the shaping means may be at least one heating iron and / or at least one heating curling iron. By shaping the keratin fibers, the keratin fibers may be straightened or curled. Thus, the method according to the present invention may be for straightening or curling keratin fibers, such as hair.

[0085] As a heating iron, any conventional heating iron can be used. The heating iron may have at least one plate, preferably two plates, which can be heated, for example, by electrical heating. The heated plate(s) can be applied to the keratin fibers and moved in the direction of the keratin fibers to straighten them.

[0086] It is preferable that the heating iron has two plates, and that the keratin fibers are sandwiched between the two plates of the heating iron, wherein at least one of the plates can be heated, and then the two plates are moved in the direction of the keratin fibers to straighten them.

[0087] It is preferable that the heating iron, in particular a portion thereof in contact with keratin fibers, such as a heating plate or heating plates, has a temperature of more than 50°C and less than 250°C, more preferably more than 100°C and less than 240°C, and even more preferably more than 150°C and less than 230°C.

[0088] Step (iii) can be carried out by one or more passes of the heating iron in the direction of the keratin fibers. Step (iii) can be controlled not only by the temperature temperature of the heating iron but also by the number of passes of the heating iron.

[0089] The heating time may depend on the temperature of the heating iron, but also on the number of passes of the heating iron. It may be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes and preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.

[0090] As a heated curling iron, any heated curling iron can be used. If the keratin fibers are wound around a heated curling iron, this winding can be carried out over the entire length of the keratin fibers or, for example, over half the length of the keratin fibers. Depending, for example, on the desired hairstyle shape and the amount of curls, the winding can be carried out with more or less thick strands.

[0091] It is preferable that the heated curling iron, in particular a portion thereof in contact with keratin fibers, such as a heating plate or a heating coating, has a temperature of more than 50°C and less than 250°C, more preferably more than 100°C and less than 240°C, and even more preferably more than 150°C and less than 230°C.

[0092] Step (iii) may be carried out by holding the keratin fibers on a curling iron so that mechanical tension is applied to the keratin fibers. Step (iii) may be controlled not only by the temperature of the heated curling iron but also by the resistance of the mechanical tension.

[0093] The heating time may depend on the temperature of the heated curling iron but also on the resistance of the mechanical tension. It may be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes and preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.

[0094] If necessary, before step (iii), mechanical tension can be applied to the keratin fibers as explained above.

[0095] Hereinafter, the details of compositions A and B used in the process according to the present invention will be explained. Composition A

[0096] Composition A of the present invention comprises:

[0097] (a) at least one organic acid;

[0098] (Shape)

[0099] Composition A used for the present invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O / W, W / O or multiple type (if the composition used for the present invention comprises at least one oil); a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type; an aqueous gel or any other cosmetic form.

[0100] Composition A according to the invention is preferably in the form of an aqueous solution.

[0101] The composition A used for the present invention may be in any galenic form. For example, the composition A used for the present invention may be in the form of any treatment for hair in general, such as a cream, a lotion, a gel or the like.

[0102] (pH)

[0103] Composition A used for the present invention may have a pH of 8 or less, preferably 7 or less and more preferably 6 or less, which is measured at 25°C.

[0104] The composition used for the present invention may have a pH of 1.5 or higher, which is measured at 25°C.

[0105] The composition used for the present invention may have a pH of 1.5 to 8, preferably 1.5 to 7 and more preferably 1.5 to 6, which is measured at 25°C.

[0106] The ingredients of composition A are described in detail below.

[0107] (a) Organic acid

[0108] Composition A in the method according to the present invention comprises at least one (a) organic acid. Two or more organic acids may be included in composition A. Thus, a single type of (a) organic acid or a combination of different types of (a) organic acids may be used in composition A.

[0109] The organic acid (a) is different from compounds (b) and compounds (c) which are described in detail below.

[0110] The organic acid may be selected from, for example, those having one or more acid groups selected from the group consisting of a carboxylic acid group, a sulfuric group, a sulfonic group, a phosphonic group, a phosphoric group, a phenolic hydroxyl group and a mixture thereof. Preferably, the organic acid (a) is selected from those having one or more carboxylic acid groups and / or phosphoric groups.

[0111] In one embodiment of the present invention, the organic acid (a) has at least one carboxylic acid group.

[0112] In one embodiment, the organic acid (a) is selected from carboxylic acids. Non-limiting examples of useful carboxylic acids may include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, citric acid, maleic acid, glycolic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, gluconic acid, propionic acid, aconitic acid and EDTA, as well as combinations thereof.

[0113] In one embodiment of the present invention, the carboxylic acid may comprise from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and, more preferably, from 2 to 7 carbon atoms.

[0114] In one embodiment of the present invention, the organic acid (a) is selected from phosphoric acids. Non-limiting examples of useful phosphoric acids may include phytic acid, inositol triphosphate, inositol pentakis-phosphate, tripolyphosphate and adenosine triphosphate, as well as combinations thereof.

[0115] In one embodiment of the present invention, the organic acid (a) is selected from monocarboxylic acids. Examples of suitable monocarboxylic acids include, but are not limited to, aryl, (hetero)cyclic, alkyl and / or aliphatic monocarboxylic acids, such as acetic acid, mono-, di- or trichloroacetic acid, glycolic acid, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, pyruvic acid, propionic acid, D-gluconic acid and D-galacturonic acid.

[0116] In one embodiment, the organic acid (a) may have two or more acid groups. This type of organic acid may have two acid groups, three acid groups, and four or more acid groups.

[0117] In one embodiment of the present invention, the organic acid (a) having two or more acid groups may be a polycarboxylic acid.

[0118] As polycarboxylic acid having two carboxylic acid groups, dicarboxylic acids, such as oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, maleic acid, tartaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid and azelaic acid may be mentioned.

[0119] As a polycarboxylic acid having three carboxylic acid groups, tricarboxylic acids, such as citric acid and aconitic acid, may be mentioned.

[0120] As polycarboxylic acid having four or more carboxylic acid groups, tetracarboxylic acids, such as EDTA, pentacarboxylic acids and hexacarboxylic acids may be mentioned.

[0121] In one embodiment of the present invention, the organic acid (a) may be selected from hydroxy acids. Therefore, composition A according to the present invention may comprise at least one hydroxy acid as component (a).

[0122] The hydroxy acid may comprise at least one mono- or polycarboxylic acid comprising at least one hydroxyl functional group. The hydroxy acid may be selected from α- and [3-hydroxy acids. For example, the hydroxy acid may be an α-hydroxy acid. The α and [3] positions reflect the fact that at least one of the hydroxyl functions occupies an α or [3] position relative to at least one of the carboxyl functions of the acid, i.e. is attached, respectively, either to the carbon bearing the hydroxyl function or to the carbon adjacent to that bearing the carboxyl function. The acid may be present in a form selected from free acids, their associated salts (such as salts with organic bases and alkali metals), e.g. example, depending on the final pH given to the composition, and optionally the corresponding lactides (i.e. the form obtained by self-esterification of the molecules).

[0123] The term "α-hydroxy acid" herein refers to an acid, such as a carboxylic acid or phosphoric acid, which has at least one hydroxyl group on the adjacent (alpha) carbon atom.

[0124] The α-hydroxy acid can be represented by the following formula (I):

[0125] (Ra)(Rb)C(OH)COOH

[0126] where

[0127] Ra and Rb are H, F, Cl, Br, I, an alkyl or aralkyl group of saturated or unsaturated, isomeric or non-isomeric, linear or branched or cyclic form, having 1 to 7 carbon atoms, and furthermore Ra and Rb may carry OH, CHO, COOH and an alkoxyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0128] Typical alkyl, aralkyl, aryl and alkoxyl groups for Ra and Rb include methyl, ethyl, propyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, pentyl.

[0129] The α-hydroxy acid may be selected from, for example, the group consisting of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, gluconic acid, phytic acid and a mixture thereof.

[0130] It is preferable that the hydroxy acid has two or more carboxylic groups, and more preferably two or three carboxylic groups.

[0131] It is also preferred that the hydroxy acid have one or more hydroxyl groups and, more preferably, one or two hydroxyl groups.

[0132] It is also preferred that the hydroxyl acid is selected from the group consisting of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, gluconic acid, mucic acid, phytic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0133] the organic acid (a) can be chosen from neutral or acidic amino acids.

[0134] the organic acid (a) is preferably chosen from “neutral” or “acidic” amino acids. The term “neutral” is intended to designate amino acids or aminosulfonic acids whose pH, at room temperature (25°C), in water is between 5 and 7. The adjective “acidic” is intended to qualify amino or aminosulfonic acids whose pH, at room temperature, in water is less than 6.

[0135] Amino acids may comprise a number of amino groups less than or equal to the number of acid groups.

[0136] The amino acid may be selected from the group consisting of glycine, alanine, glutamic acid, aspartic acid, phenylalanine, isoleucine, leucine, proline, glutamine, serine, threonine, valine, tryptophan and tyrosine; amino acid oligomers such as glycylglycine and mixtures thereof.

[0137] In a preferred embodiment, the amino acid may be chosen from the acids amino acids, such as glutamic acid, aspartic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0138] In another preferred embodiment, the organic acid is selected from aliphatic monocarboxylic acids other than glyoxylic acid; hydroxy acids, particularly α-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, gluconic acid, mucic acid, phytic acid; and acidic amino acids, such as glutamic acid and aspartic acid; and mixtures thereof.

[0139] The organic acid according to the present invention may be in the form of a salt. The term "salt" herein refers to a salt formed by the addition of a suitable base(s) to organic acids. As a salt, mention may be made of metal salts, for example alkali metal salts such as Na and K and alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg and Ca and ammonium salts.

[0140] In a preferred embodiment, the organic acid is not in the form of a salt.

[0141] The organic acid(s) may be present in a content of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.3% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0142] The organic acid(s) may be present in a content of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less and, more preferably, 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0143] The amount of the organic acid(s) (a) in composition A of the present invention may range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 15% by weight and, even better, from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0144] In one embodiment of the present invention, when the organic acid (a) is selected from organic acids other than amino acids, for example, the organic acid (a) is selected from hydroxy acids, the amount of the organic acid(s) (a) in the composition A may be from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight and, more preferably, from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition A.

[0145] In one embodiment of the present invention, when the organic acid (a) is selected from amino acids, preferably acidic amino acids, the amount of the organic acid(s) (a) in composition A may be from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 5% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A. Composition B

[0146] Composition B of the present invention comprises:

[0147] (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of: glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof and

[0148] (c) at least one compound, different from compound (b), selected from the group consisting of in ketoic acids, their salts and their mixtures.

[0149] (Shape)

[0150] Composition B used for the present invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O / W, W / O or multiple type (if the composition used for the present invention comprises at least one oil); a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type; an aqueous gel or any other cosmetic form.

[0151] Composition B of the present invention is preferably in the form of an emulsion and, better still, an O / W emulsion.

[0152] The composition B used for the present invention may be in any galenic form. For example, the composition used for the present invention may be in the form of any treatment for hair in general, such as a cream, a lotion, a gel or the like.

[0153] (pH)

[0154] Composition B used for the present invention may have a pH of 7 or less, preferably 6 or less and more preferably 5 or less, which is measured at 25°C.

[0155] Composition B used for the present invention may have a pH of 3 or higher, which is measured at 25°C.

[0156] Composition B used for the present invention may have a pH of 3 to 7, preferably 3 to 6 and more preferably 3 to 5, which is measured at 25°C.

[0157] The ingredients of composition B are described in detail below.

[0158] (b) Glyoxylic acid and its derivatives

[0159] Composition B according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof.

[0160] A single type of compound (b) may be used, or two or more different types of compounds (b) may be used in combination.

[0161] Compound (b) is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof. In other words, compound (b) is selected from glyoxylic acid and derivatives thereof.

[0162] As glyoxylic acid solvates, mention may be made, for example, of glyoxylic acid hydrates such as glyoxylic acid monohydrate.

[0163] Examples of salts of glyoxylic acid that may be mentioned include alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts of glyoxylic acid such as sodium or potassium glyoxylate, and magnesium or calcium glyoxylate.

[0164] As glyoxylic acid esters, mention may be made, for example, of alkyl esters glyoxylic acid such as methyl glyoxylate and ethyl glyoxylate.

[0165] Examples of glyoxylic acid amides that may be mentioned include, for example, N-glyoxyloylcarbocysteine ​​and N-glyoxyloyl keratin amino acids.

[0166] It is preferable to use glyoxylic acid as compound (b).

[0167] The amount of the compound(s) (b) in the composition B according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and even better, 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0168] The amount of compound(s) (b) in composition B according to the present invention is less than 25% by weight, preferably less than 20% by weight, and better still, less than 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0169] Therefore, the amount of the compound(s) (b) in the composition B according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to less than 20% by weight and, more preferably, from 1% to less than 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0170] In another embodiment, the amount of compound(s) (b) in composition B of the present invention may be greater than 3% by weight, preferably greater than 5% by weight and, more preferably, greater than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0171] Thus, in this embodiment, the amount of compound(s) (b) in composition B of the present invention may be greater than 3% and less than 25% by weight, preferably greater than 5% and less than 20% by weight and, more preferably, greater than 10% and less than 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0172] (C) Keto acid

[0173] Composition B of the present invention comprises (c) at least one compound, different from compound (b), selected from keto acids, their salts and their mixtures. Two or more compounds (c) may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (c) compound or a combination of different types of (c) compounds may be used.

[0174] The ketonic acids may be chosen from α-keto acids, β-keto acids, γ-keto acids and mixtures thereof.

[0175] The α-keto acids may be compounds represented by the formula general (I):

[0176] R'-C(=O)-COOH (I)

[0177] in which

[0178] R1 denotes a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by an OH, COOH or halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

[0179] Examples of α-keto acids include pyruvic acid.

[0180] The [3-keto] acids can be represented by the general formula (II):

[0181] R2-C(=O)-R3-COOH (II)

[0182] in which

[0183] R2 denotes a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by an OH, COOH or halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom; and

[0184] R3 denotes a methylene group, optionally substituted by a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

[0185] Examples of [3-keto acids] include acetoacetic acid.

[0186] γ-Keto acids can be represented by the general formula (III):

[0187] R2-C(=O)-R4-COOH (III)

[0188] in which

[0189] R2 denotes a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by an OH, COOH or halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom; and

[0190] R4 denotes an ethylene group, optionally substituted by a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

[0191] Examples of γ-keto acids include levulinic acid.

[0192] The ketonic acid salts may be alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts of ketonic acid such as sodium or potassium salts of ketonic acid, and magnesium or calcium salts of ketonic acid.

[0193] It is preferable to use, as compound(s) (c), γ-keto acid and, more preferably, levulinic acid and / or a salt thereof such as sodium levulinate.

[0194] The amount of the compound(s) (c) in the composition B according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition B.

[0195] The amount of the compound(s) (c) in the composition B according to the present invention is 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less and, more preferably, 6% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition B.

[0196] Therefore, the amount of compounds (c) in composition B according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight and, more preferably, from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0197] In one embodiment, the amount of the (c) compound(s) in composition B according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0198] Therefore, in this embodiment the amount of the compound(s) (c) in the composition B according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight and, more preferably, from 1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0199] In another embodiment, the amount of compounds (c) in composition B according to the present invention may be from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight and, more preferably, from 2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0200] In another embodiment of the present invention, compound(s) (c) is (are) present in a lower amount than compound(s) (b) in composition B. For example, the weight ratio of compound(s) (b) to compound(s) (c) included in composition B may range from 1:1 to 10:1, preferably from 1.5:1 to 7:1 and, more preferably, from 2:1 to 5:1.

[0201] (Other optional ingredients) - Water

[0202] Compositions A and B according to the present invention may respectively comprise water.

[0203] Thus, if each of compositions A and B according to the present invention comprises water, compositions A and B according to the present invention are not anhydrous.

[0204] The amount of water in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or more, preferably 40% by weight or more and, more preferably, 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0205] Furthermore, the amount of water in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 99.5% by weight or less, preferably 99% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0206] The amount of water in each of the compositions according to the present invention may be from 30% to 99.5% by weight, preferably from 40% to 99% by weight and, better still from 50% to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions. - Alkaline agent

[0207] Each of the compositions A and B according to the present invention may or may not comprise at least one alkaline agent. Two or more alkaline agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents can be used.

[0208] In one embodiment of the present invention, composition A does not comprise any alkaline agent, while composition B comprises at least one alkaline agent.

[0209] The alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the alkaline agent is non-volatile. It is preferable that the inorganic alkaline agent is selected from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.

[0210] Examples of the inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide. Examples of the alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. As the inorganic alkali agent, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are preferable.

[0211] The alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the organic alkaline agent is selected from the group consisting of monoamines and diamines.

[0212] Examples of monoamines include alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, comprising 1 to 3 C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups. In particular, the alkanolamines may be chosen from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

[0213] Diamines can be described by the structure (B) below: R. k R (B) nw-n"

[0214] wherein W denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkyl radical, and Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and derivatives thereof.

[0215] The amount of the alkaline agent(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0216] Furthermore, the quantity of the alkaline agent(s) in each of the com positions A and B according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, more preferably, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

[0217] Therefore, the amount of the alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. - Oil

[0218] Each of compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not comprise at least one oil. Two or more oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.

[0219] In one embodiment of the present invention, composition B comprises the at least one oil. In one embodiment of the present invention, composition A does not comprise the at least one oil.

[0220] Here "oil" means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid, a paste or a solid at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oil(s), those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0221] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon-based oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0222] The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.

[0223] Examples of vegetable oils that may be mentioned include, for example, the following oils: linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, jojoba esters, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0224] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as: isododecane and isohexadecane oil, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

[0225] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0226] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0227] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, the following may be mentioned: ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0228] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0229] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.

[0230] As ester oils, esters and diesters of sugars of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates compounds based on hydrocarbons carrying oxygen containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0231] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0232] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids in C6-C30, and preferably in C12-C22*. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0233] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[0234] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0235] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0236] An example that may be mentioned is the product marketed under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0237] Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0238] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0239] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0240] Preferably, the silicone oils are chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0241] These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

[0242] Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academie Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0243] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from: i. cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

[0244] [Chem.l] D” - D!----------------------------D” - D’ — i CH-^ with D”: Si - O— and with D'; — Si — O — ch3 c ;HAS?

[0245] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

[0246] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5x106 m2 / s at 25 °C. An example is deca-methyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

[0247] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

[0248] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned, without limitation: • Silbione® oils from the 47 and 70 047 ranges or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000; • oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia; • Dow Corning 200 range oils, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s • Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils from the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0249] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 range from the company Rhodia.

[0250] Among the silicones containing aryl groups are polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples that may be cited include products sold under the following names: • Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range from Rhodia; • oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia; • Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning; • silicones from Bayer’s PK range, such as the PK20 product; • certain oils from the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0251] Organomodified liquid silicones may in particular contain poly-ethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

[0252] The hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from: • lower C6-C16 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that may be cited include the following: hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.

[0253] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or vaseline, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.

[0254] It is preferable that the oil is chosen from polar oils, better still, ester oils, and even better still, monoester oils.

[0255] The quantity of oil(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more and, more preferably, 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the compositions.

[0256] Furthermore, the amount of the oil(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less and, more preferably, 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

[0257] Therefore, the amount of the oil(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight and, more preferably, from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the compositions. - Fatty alcohol

[0258] Each of compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not comprise at least one fatty alcohol. Only one type of alcohol may be used, but two or more different types of alcohols may be used in combination.

[0259] In one embodiment, compositions B of the present invention comprise at least one fatty alcohol. In one embodiment, composition A does not comprise the fatty alcohol.

[0260] The term "fatty" herein means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, and most preferably 10 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. Two or more fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

[0261] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C12-C24 alkyl and C12-C24 alkenyl groups. R may be substituted or not by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0262] As non-limiting examples of fatty alcohol (h), mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.

[0263] Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

[0264] Fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, meaning that several species of fatty alcohols may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.

[0265] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is chosen from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).

[0266] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol (h) is selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.

[0267] The amount of fatty alcohol(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more and, more preferably, 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the compositions.

[0268] Furthermore, the amount of fatty alcohol(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less and, even better, 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

[0269] Therefore, the amount of fatty alcohol(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight and, more preferably, from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the compositions. -Non-ionic surfactant

[0270] Each of compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not comprise at least one nonionic surfactant. A single type of nonionic surfactant may be used, or two or more different types of nonionic surfactants may be used in combination.

[0271] In one embodiment, composition B of the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant. In one embodiment, composition A of the present invention does not comprise at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0272] Non-ionic surfactants are compounds well known in themselves (see, for example, in this regard, the "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178). Thus, they may, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and fatty acid esters, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and comprising at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, knowing that the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups may range from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups may range from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned.Mention may also be made, in a non-limiting manner, of copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30 mol of oxide. of ethylene; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; sucrose fatty acid esters; polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters; polyethoxylated mono or diesters of fatty acids of alkylpolyglycosides (C6-C24) of glycerol; N-alkylglucamine derivatives (C6-C24), amine oxides such as alkylamine oxides (C10-C14) or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides (C10-C14); silicone surfactants; and mixtures thereof.

[0273] The non-ionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated non-ionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or their combination, and are preferably oxyethylene units.

[0274] Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants which may be cited:

[0275] Monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated (C8-C24) alkylphenols,

[0276] saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C8-C30 alcohols,

[0277] saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C8-C30 amides,

[0278] esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of monoalkylene glycol or polyalkylene glycols,

[0279] monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of sorbitol,

[0280] saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated vegetable oils and

[0281] condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, among others, alone or in mixture.

[0282] The surfactants preferably contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50 and better still between 1 and 20.

[0283] According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the monooxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants may be chosen from monooxyethylenated fatty alcohol (ethylene glycol ether of fatty alcohol), monooxyethylenated fatty ester (ethylene glycol ester of fatty acid), and mixtures thereof.

[0284] Examples of monooxyalkylenated fatty esters that may be mentioned include glycol distearate.

[0285] According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol (ether of polyethylene glycol and fatty alcohol), polyoxyethylenated fatty ester (ester of polyethylene glycol and fatty acid), and mixtures thereof.

[0286] As an example of polyoxyethylenated saturated fatty alcohols (or C8-C30 alcohols), mention may be made of adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylenated units and more particularly those containing from 2 to 10 oxyethylenated units (CTFA names Laureth-2 to Laureth-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylenated units (CTFA names Beheneth-2 to Beheneth-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylenated units (CTFA names Ceteareth-2 to Ceteareth-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylenated units (CTFA names Ceteth-2 to Ceteth-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with stearyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylenated units (CTFA names Steareth-2 to Steareth-20);adducts of ethylene oxide with isostearyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylenated units (CTFA names Isosteareth-2 to Isosteareth-20) and mixtures thereof.;

[0287] Examples of polyoxyethylenated unsaturated fatty alcohols (or C8-C3o alcohols) that may be cited include adducts of ethylene oxide with oleyl alcohol, particularly those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 2 to 10 oxyethylene units (Oleth-2 to Oleth-20, as CTFA names) and mixtures thereof.

[0288] It is preferable that the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated non-ionic surfactants, better still polyoxyalkylenated non-ionic surfactants, and even better still polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols.

[0289] The amount of nonionic surfactant(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more and, more preferably, 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the compositions.

[0290] Furthermore, the amount of nonionic surfactant(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 14% by weight or less and, even better, 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

[0291] Therefore, the amount of nonionic surfactant(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight and, more preferably, from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the compositions. - Polyol

[0292] Each of the compositions A and B according to the present invention may or may not comprise at least one polyol. Only one type of polyol may be used, but two or several different types of polyols can be used in combination.

[0293] In one embodiment, composition B of the present invention comprises at least one polyol. In one embodiment, composition A of the present invention does not comprise at least one polyol.

[0294] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” must be understood as designating any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0295] The polyol suitable for use in the invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic alkyl type, saturated or unsaturated, comprising at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain.

[0296] Preferably, the polyol is a compound of linear or branched alkyl type, preferably linear carrying at least two -OH functions, preferably 2 to 5 -OH functions, better still 2 to 4 -OH functions and, even better still, 2 or 3 -OH functions on the alkyl chain.

[0297] The polyols which are advantageously suitable are those comprising in particular from 2 to 8 carbon atoms or for example from 3 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0298] The polyols may be chosen from linear or branched polyols, preferably linear polyols comprising from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; in particular: • diols such as hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol and • triols, such as glycerol (glycerin),

[0299] and mixtures thereof.

[0300] In one embodiment of the present invention, the polyol is selected from linear alkyl type polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0301] The polyol(s) may be present in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more and, more preferably, 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the compositions.

[0302] The polyol(s) may be present in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less and, more preferably, 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0303] Therefore, the amount of polyol(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight and, more preferably, from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. - Monoalcohol

[0304] Each of the compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not comprise at least one monohydric alcohol. Only one type of monohydric alcohol may be used, but two or more different types of monohydric alcohols may be used in combination.

[0305] The monoalcohol herein may be a water-soluble hydrophilic monoalcohol. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic" means that a substance is soluble in water at a concentration of 1% by weight or more based on the total weight of water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

[0306] The monoalcohol may be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monoalcohol comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, comprising only one hydroxyl function (OH).

[0307] In one embodiment, the monoalcohol may be an aliphatic monoalcohol having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0308] The term “aliphatic monoalcohol” here designates any saturated, linear or branched alkane compound, comprising only one hydroxyl (OH) function.

[0309] The aliphatic monoalcohol(s) may be chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof.

[0310] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the monoalcohol may be chosen from linear aliphatic monoalcohols comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol and mixtures thereof.

[0311] The amount of monoalcohol(s) in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.2% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.25% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0312] Furthermore, the amount of monoalcohol(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less and, even better, 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

[0313] Therefore, the amount of monoalcohol(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 20% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.25% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the compositions. - Optional ingredients

[0314] Each of the compositions A and B according to the present invention may also comprise at least one other optional ingredient, chosen in particular from: viscosity correctors, such as thickeners, such as polysaccharides; sunscreens; moisturizers; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; antibacterial agents; preservatives, such as phenoxyethanol; chelating agents; pearlescent agents and opacifiers; plasticizers or coalescers; fillers; emulsifiers; polymers, particularly conditioning polymers, such as cationic polymers; perfumes; silanes; crosslinking agents and surfactants, including anionic and amphoteric surfactants. The composition may, of course, include several cosmetic ingredients from the list above.

[0315] The above optional ingredient(s) may be present in normal amounts which can be readily determined by those skilled in the art and which may be, for each ingredient, between 0.01% and 80% by weight in each of compositions A and B. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition, as well as their amounts, so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions used for the present invention. - Ammonia and thiol compound

[0316] It is preferable that the method according to the present invention does not include the application of ammonia or a thiol compound to the keratin fibers. Thus, it is preferable that each of compositions A and B is free of ammonia or a thiol compound. The expression "free of ammonia or a thiol compound" means that the composition according to the present invention does not include a substantial amount of ammonia or a thiol compound.

[0317] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of ammonia or a thiol compound, in particular no ammonia or a thiol compound.

[0318] Due to the very low amount or absence of ammonia and / or thiol compound, the bad odor during the process according to the present invention can be reduced or prevented.

[0319] The thiol compound herein refers to a compound which has at least one thiol group (-SH).

[0320] The thiol compound may be a reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol or glycol monothioglycolate; thiolactic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol monothiolactate; 3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate and ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate; cysteamine and its derivatives, in particular its C1-C4 acyl derivatives such as N-acetylcysteamine and N-propionylcysteamine; mono-thioglycerol and its derivatives, in particular its esters; cysteine ​​and its derivatives, including its esters such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoylcysteine ​​and cysteine ​​alkyl esters; thioglycerin and its derivatives, including s-alkyl derivatives, and its salts.

[0321] As the above salts, mention may be made, for example, of ammonium salts; salts primary, secondary or tertiary amine; alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts. Examples of primary, secondary or tertiary amines include monoethanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triethanolamine, respectively.

[0322] Other examples of thiol reducing agent include, but are not limited to, N-mercapto alkyl sugar amides such as N-(mercapto-2-ethyl)gluconamide, [3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives; thiomalic acid; panthetine; N-(mercaptoalkyl)co-hydroxyalkyl amides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 354 835 and N-mono- or N,N-dialkylmercapto 4-butyramides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 368 763; aminomer-captoalkyl amides such as those described in European patent application No. 0 432 000 and alkylaminomer-captoalkylamides such as those described in European patent application No. 0 514 282; 2-hydroxypropyl thioglycolate (2 / 3) and the mixture based on 2-hydroxymethyl-1-ethyl thioglycolate (67 / 33) described in French patent application No. 2 679 448. - Reducing agent and oxidizing agent

[0323] It is preferable that the method according to the present invention does not include the application of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent to the keratin fibers. Thus, it is preferable that each of compositions A and B is free of reducing agent or oxidizing agent. The expression "free of reducing agent or oxidizing agent" means that a composition does not include a substantial amount of reducing agent or oxidizing agent.

[0324] In one embodiment, each of compositions A and B according to the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, in particular no reducing agent or no oxidizing agent.

[0325] The reducing agent may be a thiol reducing agent or a non-thiol reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent is as described above.

[0326] The non-thiol reducing agent herein refers to a reducing agent without a thiol group. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of sulfites, bisulfites, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, reductones and hydrides. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from ammonium sulfites and bisulfites, as well as metal sulfites and bisulfites, more preferably from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal sulfites and bisulfites and, more preferably, from sodium sulfites and bisulfites.

[0327] The oxidizing agent may be selected from hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, and compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent may be selected from an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates and persalts such as perborates and persulfates. {Optional step (iv)}

[0328] The method according to the present invention may or may not comprise an additional step (iv) for the application of at least one treatment composition other than composition A and composition B to the keratin fibers. The composition of the treatment will be described in detail later.

[0329] The application of the treatment composition can be carried out by any means, such as a brush and a comb.

[0330] The method according to the present invention may comprise step (iv) after application of the two compositions A and B and before step (iii), if applicable. Thus, the method according to the present invention may comprise step (iv) after the end of the two steps (i) and (ii) and before step (iii) if applicable.

[0331] In one embodiment of the present invention, the method according to the present invention comprises step (i), step (ii), step (iv) and step (iii), in that order.

[0332] In another embodiment of the present invention, the method according to the present invention comprises step (ii), step (i), step (iv) and step (iii), in that order.

[0333] The process according to the present invention may comprise an optional step (ii) of rinsing the keratin fibers with or without drying the keratin fibers just before and / or after step (iv).

[0334] It may be possible, after application of the treatment composition, to leave the keratin fibers as they are for a certain period of time; generally from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 2 to 30 minutes, and more preferably from 3 to 10 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow the composition to penetrate into the keratin fibers.

[0335] The amount of the treatment composition applied to the keratin fibers is not particularly limited, but generally ranges from 0.01 g to 0.5 g relative to 1 g of keratin fibers.

[0336] The method according to the present invention may comprise step (iv) once, or may comprise step (iv) two or more times. In a preferred embodiment, the method according to the present invention may comprise step (iv) twice.

[0337] Where the method comprises step (iv) two or more times, each step (iv) may include applying the same or different treatment compositions.

[0338] In one embodiment of the present invention, the method comprises step (iv) twice, and each step (iv) includes applying a different composition to the keratin fibers.

[0339] In one embodiment of the present invention, the method according to the present invention does not comprise a rinsing step after step (iv). In this embodiment, the treatment composition used in step (iv) may be a com- leave-in cosmetic position.

[0340] (Treatment composition)

[0341] The treatment compositions which can be used for the present invention can have any form suitable for topical application, and in particular the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O / W, W / O or multiple type (if the composition used for the present invention comprises at least one oil); a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type; an aqueous gel or any other cosmetic form.

[0342] The treatment compositions which can be used for the present invention can have a pH of 3 to 8, preferably 3 to 7 at 25°C.

[0343] The formulations of the treatment compositions are not particularly limited, and compositions for keratin fibers commonly used in the cosmetic field may be used. In one embodiment, the treatment composition may be a hair care composition.

[0344] For example, the treatment composition may or may not include at least one silicone and / or at least one polyol.

[0345] Preferably, the treatment composition comprises at least one amino-modified silicone or aminosilicone.

[0346] The term “aminosilicone” herein designates a silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group or at least one quaternary ammonium group.

[0347] The amount of the silicone(s) (a) compound in the treatment composition may be from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight and, more preferably, from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the treatment composition.

[0348] The polyol which may be included in the treatment composition is the same as the polyol explained above, and the same explanations may be applied.

[0349] Preferably, the treatment composition comprises at least one polyol selected from diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, and caprylyl glycol and other polyols such as glycerol.

[0350] The amount of polyol(s) in the treatment composition may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the treatment composition.

[0351] The treatment composition may comprise water. In this embodiment, the treatment composition is not anhydrous.

[0352] The amount of water in the treatment composition may be from 40% to 95% by weight, preferably from 50% to 95% by weight and, more preferably, from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the compositions. [Kit]

[0353] The present invention also relates to a kit for shaping, preferably for smoothing keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the combination of composition A and composition B of the present invention.

[0354] Therefore, the present invention also relates to a kit for shaping, preferably straightening keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:

[0355] a composition A, comprising: a. at least one organic acid and

[0356] a composition B, comprising: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and b. at least one compound, different from compound (b), selected from the group consisting of ketoic acids, their salts and their mixtures,

[0357] wherein (a) the organic acid is selected from organic acids other than compounds (b) and (c).

[0358] In the kit according to the present invention, composition A and composition B may be provided separately, for example, in different containers.

[0359] The kit according to the present invention may, moreover, comprise at least one heating element, such as an iron or a heating curling iron which is capable of providing the keratin fibers with a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C and, better still, more than 150°C.

[0360] The heating element in the kit is not limited as long as it can heat the keratin fibers to a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C and more preferably more than 150°C. This temperature may be less than 250°C, preferably less than 240°C and more preferably less than 230°C. Thus, this temperature may be more than 50°C and less than 250°C, preferably more than 100°C and less than 240°C and more preferably more than 150°C and less than 230°C.

[0361] Any conventional iron or curling iron, including any conventional heated iron or curling iron, may be used as the above iron or curling iron in the kit according to the present invention.

[0362] It is preferable that the heating device is a heated iron or curling iron, as explained in the section entitled [Method] above. Furthermore, the details of the compositions used in the kit according to the present invention are explained in the section entitled [Method] above. [Use]

[0363] The present invention may relate to a use of the combination of composition A and composition B of the present invention, for shaping, preferably smoothing keratin fibers such as hair.

[0364] Thus, the present invention also relates to a use of a combination of a composition A and a composition B, for shaping, preferably smoothing keratin fibers such as hair, in which

[0365] composition A comprises: a. at least one organic acid and

[0366] composition B comprises: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and b. at least one compound, different from compound (b), selected from the group consisting of ketoic acids, their salts and their mixtures,

[0367] wherein (a) the organic acid is selected from organic acids other than compounds (b) and (c).

[0368] In particular, the present invention relates to a use of composition A as a pre-treatment agent or post-treatment agent for shaping, preferably smoothing, keratin fibers with composition B, in which:

[0369] composition A comprises: a. at least one organic acid and

[0370] composition B comprises: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and b. at least one compound, different from compound (b), selected from the group consisting of ketoic acids, their salts and their mixtures,

[0371] wherein (a) the organic acid is selected from organic acids other than compounds (b) and (c).

[0372] The use of the present invention may be carried out by heating the keratin fiber, preferably the hair. In the use of the present invention, the heating may be provided after application of compositions A and B to the keratin fiber.

[0373] Heating is not limited as long as it can heat the keratin fibers to a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C and more preferably more than 150°C. This temperature may be less than 250°C, preferably less than 240°C and more preferably less than 230°C. Thus, this temperature may be more than 50°C and less than 250°C, preferably more than 100°C and less than 240°C and, better still, over 150°C and under 230°C.

[0374] Details of the compositions for use according to the present invention are explained in the section entitled [Method] above. EXAMPLES

[0375] The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. [Preparation]

[0376] Compositions A1 to A8, AT, A'2 and composition B were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Tables 1 and 2. The numerical values ​​for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on "% by weight" as raw materials.

[0377] [Tables 1] Al A2 A3 A4 A5 A6 A7 A8 AT A'2 Tartaric acid 3 - - - - - - - - - Aspartic acid - 0.4 - - - - - - - - Glutamic acid - 0.4 - - - - - - - - Citric acid - - 10 6 6 5.76 - - - Malic acid - - - - - - 4.02 - - - Glycolic acid - - - - - - - 2.28 - - Sodium hydroxide - - - - qsp PH 3.0 qsp PH 2.2 qsp PH 2.2 qsp PH 2.2 5 - HCl (0.5 N) - - - - - - - - 3.5 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Water qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 PH 3.5 3.3 1.6 1.7 3.0 2.2 2.2 2.2 13.3 1.7

[0378] [Tables2] Composition B Isopropyl Myristate 8 Cetearyl Alcohol 9.5 Steareth-20 4 Pentylene Glycol 5 Steareth-2 4 Dipalmitoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate (30% by weight as MA) (1) 5 Cetyl Esters 1 Glyoxylic Acid (50% by weight as MA) (2) 14 Levulinic Acid (60% by weight as MA) (3) 4 Ethanol 0.25 Viscosity Regulator 0.5 pH Corrector qs pH 3.0 Water qs 100 1. marketed by BASF under the name DEHYQUART F 30 (containing 30% active ingredient) 2. marketed by the company WEYLCHEM under the name GLYOXO-HIGH PURE 50 (containing 50% active ingredient) 3. marketed by the company DR STRAETMANS (EVONIK) under the name DERMOSOFT 700 B (containing 60% active ingredient) Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 Example 1

[0379] 1 g of Brazilian curly hair strand (type IV) with a length of 27 cm was washed with 0.5 g of a simple shampoo composition. The formulation of any shampoo is shown in Table 3 below. The numerical values ​​for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on "% by weight" as raw materials. The hair strand was rinsed thoroughly with tap water.

[0380] [Tables3] Regular Shampoo Sodium Laureth Sulfate 15 Coco-Betaine 9 Preservatives 0.7 Polyquaternium-10 0.3 Water qsp 100 pH Corrector qsp pH 5.5 Viscosity Regulator 2

[0381] Composition Al was applied in an amount of 0.2 g to the strand of wet hair as a pretreatment (step (i)).

[0382] Then, without rinsing, composition B was applied in an amount of 0.6 g to the lock of hair (Step (ii)).

[0383] The hair strand was left for 10 minutes at room temperature (25°C). The hair strand was then thoroughly rinsed with tap water.

[0384] The lock of hair was straightened in 3 passes with a straightening iron (ADST Premium DS2, Hakko Limited, Japan) at 180 C, 4 seconds / pass (step iii) Examples 2 to 5

[0385] The same methods according to Example 1 were carried out except that each of the compositions A2 to A5 was used instead of composition A1, respectively. Comparative Example 1

[0386] The hair strand, which was the same as that used in Example 1, was washed with 0.5 g of an ordinary shampoo according to Example 1. The formulation of the ordinary shampoo was the same as that used in Example 1. Then, no treatment was applied to the hair strand according to Comparative Example 1. Thus, none of steps (i) to (iii) were carried out in this method. Comparative example 2

[0387] A sample according to Comparative Example 2 was prepared using 0.5 g of an ordinary shampoo according to Example 1, and then the hair strand was dried with a hair dryer until the hair strand was dry. Then, the hair strand was subjected to straightening without any treatment with the hair straightener. The straightening method was the same as that of Example 1. Thus, only step (iii) was carried out in this method. Comparative example 3

[0388] A sample according to Comparative Example 3 was prepared in the same manner as Example 1, but no pretreatment with composition Al was carried out. Thus, step (i) was not carried out in this process. Comparative Examples 4 and 5

[0389] The same methods according to Example 1 were carried out except that each of compositions A'1 and A'2 was used instead of composition A1, respectively.

[0390] The processes according to Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 are summarized in Table 4; As explained above, in these examples, steps (i), (ii) and (iii) were carried out in that order, where appropriate.

[0391] [Tables4] Step (i) Step (ii) Step (iii) Ex. 1 Al B Done Ex. 2 A2 B Done Ex. 3 A3 B Done Ex. 4 A4 B Done Ex. 5 A5 B Done Ex. Comp. 1 - - - Ex. Comp. 2 - - Done Ex. Comp. 3 - B Done Ex. Comp. 4 AT B Done Ex. Comp. 5 A'2 B Done Examples 6 to 10 Example 6

[0392] 1 g of Brazilian curly hair strand (type IV) with a length of 27 cm was washed with 0.5 g of the ordinary shampoo composition. The formulation of the ordinary shampoo composition was the same as that used in Example 1.

[0393] Composition B was applied in an amount of 0.6 g to the strand of wet hair as a pretreatment (Step (ii)).

[0394] The lock of hair was left for 10 minutes at room temperature (25°C).

[0395] Composition A4 was applied in an amount of 0.2 g to the lock of hair (Step (i)) as a post-treatment. The lock of hair was then thoroughly rinsed with tap water.

[0396] 0.25 g of a hair care composition Y was applied to the strand of hair. The hair strand was left for 10 minutes at room temperature (25 °C). Then, 0.03 g of a hair care composition Z was applied to the strand of hair. The strand of hair was blow-dried until dry, and was subjected to straightening in the same manner as in Example 1.

[0397] Thus, the method according to Example 6 included an additional step (iv).

[0398] The formulations of hair care compositions Y and Z are shown in Tables 5 and 6 below, respectively. The numerical values ​​for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on "% by weight" as raw materials.

[0399] [Tables5] Hair Care Composition Y Cetearyl Alcohol 6 Cetyl Esters 1.5 Behentrimonium Chloride (80% by weight as MA) 3 Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-5 (and) Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-10 (15% by weight of amodimethicone from MA) (4) 15 Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-6 (and) Cetrimonium Chloride (57% by weight of amodimethicone from MA) (5) 4.5 Preservatives 0.5 Glycerin 2 Water qs 100 PH 4.0

[0400] (4) marketed by the company Wacker under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1 (containing 15% active ingredient)

[0401] (5) marketed by the company Wacker under the name Belsil ADM 4000 E (containing 57% active ingredient)

[0402] [Tableauxô] Hair Care Composition Z Water qs 100 Citric Acid 0.06 Sodium Citrate 0.08 Butylene Glycol 4 Sclerotium Gum 0.5 PEG-240 / HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether 3 Caprylyl Glycol 0.7 Undecane (and) Tridecane 1 Aminopropyl Dimethicone 8.83 Isononyl Isononanoate 3 Fragrance 0.5 PH 5.0

[0403] [Tableauxô] Hair Care Composition Z Water qsp 100 pH Corrector qsp pH 5.0 Butylene Glycol 4 Viscosity Regulator 0.5 PEG-240 / HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether (30% by weight of MA) (6) 3 Preservative 0.7 Undecane (and) Tridecane 1 Aminopropyl Dimethicone (55% by weight of MA) (7) 8.83 Isononyl Isononanoate 3

[0404] (6) marketed by the company ADEKA under the name ADEKANOL GT-730 (containing 30% active ingredient).

[0405] (7) marketed by the company SHIN ETSU under the name X-22-9686 (containing 55% active ingredient).

[0406] The lock of hair was straightened in 3 passes with a straightening iron (ADST Premium DS2, Hakko Limited, Japan) at 180 C, 4 seconds / pass (step iii) Examples 7 to 10

[0407] The same method according to Example 6 was carried out, except that each of compositions A5 to A8 was used instead of composition A4, respectively.

[0408] The processes according to Examples 6 to 10 are summarized in Table 7. As explained above, in these examples, steps (ii), (i), (iv) and (iii) were carried out in this order, where appropriate.

[0409] [Tables7] Step (ii) Step (i) Step (iv) Step (iii) Ex. 6 B A4 Done Done Ex. 7 B A5 Done Done Ex. 8 B A6 Done Done Ex. 9 B A7 Done Done Ex. 10 B A8 Done Done [Assessment]

[0410] Smoothing effect

[0411] After keeping each of the treated hair strands at room temperature (25°C) for three hours, the smoothing level of the treated hair strand was visually evaluated based on three aspects; “smoothing performance”, “frizz level” and “volume” under the following criteria.

[0412] 5: Excellent

[0413] 4: Very good

[0414] 3: Good

[0415] 2: Passable

[0416] 1: Bad

[0417] (Durability)

[0418] The durability of the smoothing effects on the hair strand was evaluated by examining the smoothing effect of the hair strand after 7 shampoos with a routine shampoo composition. The formulation of the routine shampoo composition is shown in Table 8 below. The hair strand was thoroughly rinsed with tap water and dried with a hair dryer (for approximately 90 seconds until dry) after each shampoo. The evaluation was carried out according to the following criteria.

[0419] 4: Excellent

[0420] 3: Good

[0421] 2: Fair

[0422] 1: Poor

[0423] [Tableaux8] Regular Shampoo Sodium C14-Ci6 Olefin Sulfonate (38% wt. as MA) 18.4 Cocamidopropyl Betaine (38% wt. as MA) 16.8 Laureth-5 Carboxylic Acid 2.2 Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside (60% wt. DE MA) 1.5 Polyquaternium-67 0.15 Preservative 0.61 pH Adjuster qs pH 5.3 Viscosity Regulator 1.15

[0424] The results are shown in Table 9 below.

[0425] [Tables9] Smoothing effect Durability Ex. 1 4 2 Ex. 2 3 2 Ex. 3 4 3 Ex. 4 4 4 Ex. 5 3 3 Ex. Comp. 1 1 1 Ex. Comp. 2 2 1 Ex. Comp. 3 3 1 Ex. Comp. 4 3 1 Ex. Comp. 5 2 2 Ex. 6 5 4 Ex. 7 4 2 Ex. 8 5 3 Ex. 9 5 2 Ex. 10 4 2

[0426] It is clear that the methods according to the examples, which include steps (i) and (ii), optionally (iii) provided both an improved smoothing effect and durability compared to the methods according to the comparative examples, which do not include all steps (i) and (ii), optionally (iii).

Claims

Claims

1. A method of shaping, preferably straightening, keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising the following steps: (i) applying a composition A to the keratin fibers, in which composition A comprises: (a) at least one organic acid; (ii) applying a composition B to the keratin fibers, wherein the composition B comprises: (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of: glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof and (c) at least one compound, different from compound (b), selected from the group consisting of ketoic acids, their salts and mixtures thereof and (iii) optionally, heating the keratin fibers to a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C and more preferably more than 150°C, once steps (i) and (ii) are both completed.wherein the organic acid (a) is selected from organic acids other than compounds (b) and (c) and wherein the process comprises step (i) then step (ii) or step (ii) then step (i).

2. The method of claim 1, wherein (a) the organic acid (a) is selected from organic acids having at least one carboxylic acid group.

3. A method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the organic acid (a) is selected from α-hydroxy acids, acidic amino acids and mixtures thereof.

4. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the organic acid (a) is selected from glycolic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, glutamic acid, aspartic acid and mixtures thereof.

5. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein compound (c) is selected from levulinic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof.

6. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the method does not include an application of ammonia or a thiol compound on keratin fibers.

7. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the method does not include applying a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent to the keratin fibers.

8. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein compositions A and B further comprise water.

9. Kit for shaping, preferably straightening keratin fibers such as hair, comprising: a composition A, comprising: a. at least one organic acid and a composition B, comprising: (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of: glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof and (c) at least one compound, different from compound (b), selected from the group consisting of ketoic acids, their salts and their mixtures and wherein the organic acid (a) is selected from organic acids other than compounds (b) and (c).

10. Use of a combination of a composition A and a composition B, for shaping, preferably smoothing keratin fibers such as hair, wherein composition A comprises: a. at least one organic acid and Composition B, comprises: (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of: glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof and (c) at least one compound, different from compound (b), selected from the group consisting of ketoic acids, their salts and their mixtures and wherein the organic acid (a) is selected from organic acids other than compounds (b) and (c).