Water-based perfume composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to a water-based fragrance or deodorizing composition comprising: (a) at least one fragrance or deodorizing substance, (b) a solubilizing system comprising: (i) at least one polyethoxylated C6-C22 sorbitan fatty acid ester, (ii) at least one polyethoxylated C6-C22 fatty acid triglyceride, (iii) at least one C6-C22 fatty acid glycerol ester, and (c) water. It also relates to the use of this composition for fragrance or deodorizing the atmosphere or a substrate such as the body and / or textiles, as well as to a deodorizing or fragrance product in the form of a spray containing such a composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Water-based perfume composition FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to an aqueous-based perfuming or deodorizing composition comprising: (a) at least one perfuming or deodorizing substance, (b) a solubilizing system comprising: (i) at least one polyethoxylated sorbitan C6-C22 fatty acid ester, (ii) at least one polyethoxylated C6-C22 fatty acid triglyceride, (iii) at least one glycerol C6-C22 fatty acid ester, and (c) water. It also relates to the use of this composition for perfuming or deodorizing the atmosphere or a substrate such as the body and / or a textile, as well as a deodorizing or perfuming product in the form of a spray containing such a composition. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0002] Perfumes are complex mixtures of compounds that are poorly or not at all soluble in water and are therefore generally carried in compositions with a high alcohol content such as ethanol or isopropanol, possibly mixed with water. Ethanol is the most commonly used solvent as it evaporates quickly, provides a refreshing sensation on the skin and allows the formulation of transparent compositions. However, the perfume industry is seeking to replace ethanol with solvents free of volatile organic compounds (VOCs), given the regulatory constraints linked to the use of VOCs. Ethanol is also irritating to the skin and may alter the olfactory profile of certain perfumes. It has therefore been considered to formulate perfumes in water using surfactants, generally in the form of microemulsions.

[0003] In this context, patent application CN111388338 discloses a water-based perfume for pets, which is possibly ethanol-free and contains a polyol such as propylene glycol, as well as a solubilizing system consisting of polyethoxylated sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) marketed under the designation Tween® 20, and a hydrogenated and polyethoxylated castor oil (40 EO).

[0004] The Applicant has, however, demonstrated that this combination of solubilizers has an unacceptable stickiness for application to human skin. Above all, it does not allow the production of a perfume composition that is stable over time, since the composition loses its transparency after only a few days. The same applies to its combination with a polyol.

[0005] In the same vein, US Patent No. 11,040,003 describes an aqueous-based perfume formulation comprising polyethoxylated fatty acid triglycerides combined with a C3-C10 alkanediol.

[0006] There therefore remains a need to be able to have an aqueous-based perfume composition, possibly free of ethanol, which is stable over time, transparent, and which does not have a sticky character. It would also be desirable for this composition to contain only bio-sourced and biodegradable solubilizers in order to meet the ever-increasing demands of consumers for naturalness.

[0007] After extensive research, the Applicant has demonstrated that these needs could be met by substituting glyceryl caprylate / caprate for the diols of the prior art. Summary of the invention

[0008] The invention relates to a water-based perfuming or deodorizing composition comprising:

[0009] (a) at least one perfuming or deodorizing substance,

[0010] (b) a solubilizing system comprising:

[0011] (i) at least one polyethoxylated sorbitan C6-C22 fatty acid ester,

[0012] (ii) at least one polyethoxylated C6-C22 fatty acid triglyceride,

[0013] (iii) at least one ester of glycerol and C6-C22 fatty acid, and

[0014] (c) water.

[0015] It also relates to the use of this composition for perfuming or deodorizing the atmosphere or a substrate such as the body and / or a textile.

[0016] It also relates to a deodorizing or perfuming product in the form of a spray containing such a composition. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0017] The invention relates to a novel aqueous-based perfuming or deodorizing composition. By the term "aqueous-based" is meant that the continuous phase of the composition comprises water and that the composition contains at least 50% by weight of water. The composition according to the invention comprises a perfuming or deodorizing substance and a solubilizing system comprising a combination of three particular solubilizing agents. These constituents will now be described in more detail. Perfuming or deodorizing substance

[0018] The perfuming or deodorizing substance used according to the invention comprises a combination of compounds of synthetic, semi-synthetic and / or natural origin, suitable for producing an odor and / or for neutralizing or masking an odor. These are generally volatile organic compounds, i.e. having a vapor pressure greater than atmospheric pressure at room temperature (and preferably at a temperature of 0°C). These compounds usually have a weight-average molecular mass of less than 350 g / mol, preferably less than or equal to 325 g / mol, or even less than or equal to 300 g / mol.

[0019] These compounds may include, in particular, terpene compounds, hydrocarbons, alcohols, esters, aldehydes, acetals, ketones, C12-C16 macrocyclic compounds, heterocyclic compounds such as pyrazines and indoles, and mixtures thereof. Terpene compounds include both terpenes and terpenoids, including monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, monoterpenoids and sesquiterpenoids.

[0020] The following compounds may thus be present in the perfuming substance used in the present invention, alone or in combination: ocimene, limonene, α-pinene, β-pinene, camphene, β-carene, p-cymene, linalool, eucalyptol, menthol, nerol, geraniol, citronellol, borneol, terpineols and acetates thereof, such as neryl or citronellyl acetate, citral, geranial, citronellal, camphor, carvone, humulene, zingiberene, beta-caryophyllene, famesol, patchoulol, methyl 2-methyl butyrate; isopropyl 2-methyl butyrate; ethyl 2-methyl butyrate; ethyl 2-methyl pentanoate; ethyl heptanoate; ethyl octanoate; isobutyl hexanoate; amyl butyrate; amyl heptanoate; isoamyl isobutyrate; hexyl acetate; hexyl butyrate; hexyl isobutyrate; hexyl isovalerate; hexyl propionate; ethyl 2-cyclohexyl propanoate;ethyl 3,5,5-trimethyl hexanoate; glyceryl 5-hydroxydecanoate; prenyl acetate; methyl 2-butenyl acetate; methyl 3-nonenoate; ethyl decenoate; ethyl octenoate; ethyl decadienoate; ethyl octenoate; 2-hex-1-enyl isovalerate; 2-hexen-1-yl propionate; 2-hexen-1-yl valerate; 3-hexen-1-yl (E)-2-hexenoate; 3-hexen-1-yl 2-methyl butyrate; 3-hexen-1-yl acetate; 3-hexen-1-yl benzoate; 3-hexen-1-yl formate; 3-hexen-1-yl tiglate; 2-methylbutyl 2-methylbutyrate; butyl isovalerate; allyl cyclohexane; allyl cyclohexyl propionate; allyl cyclohexyl valerate; benzyl octanoate; gamma-decalactone; gamma-dodecalactone; jasmin lactone; jasmolactone; nonalactone; 6-acetoxydihydrotheaspirane; phenoxyethyl isobutyrate; pivacyclene; dimethyl anthranilate; methyl anthranilate; octanal;nonanal; decanal; dodecanal; methyl nonyl acetaldehyde; methyl octyl acetaldehyde; 2,4-hexadienal; intreleven; decen-l-al; nonen-l-al; aldoxal; ligustral; tridecenal; triplai; vertoliff; cyclal C; heliotropine; neo-caspirene; beta naphthol ethyl ether; beta naphthol methyl ether; hyacinth ether; 2-heptyl cyclopentanone; undecavertol; frutonil; and mixtures thereof.

[0021] The fragrance substance according to the invention may be provided by a perfume ingredient, a combination of perfume ingredients referred to as an "accord" or a more complex mixture of perfume ingredients referred to as a "perfume". A perfume ingredient contains, for example, a plant extract comprising substances or volatile organic compounds. The plant extract is generally the product resulting from the implementation of a process for extracting odorous molecules, such as enfleurage, hydrodistillation, steam distillation, expression or supercritical CO2 extraction, on all or part of a plant. These techniques make it possible in particular to obtain essential oils or absolutes, in particular.

[0022] In the case where a deodorizing substance is used, this may comprise compounds chosen from: saturated aldehydes, optionally alkoxylated, such as 2-methylundecanal and 6-methoxy-2,6-dimethyloctanal; unsaturated aldehydes, such as 2,6-dimethylhept-5-enal, 2,4-dimethylcyclohex-3-enecarbaldehyde, 4-vinylcyclohex-1-enecarbaldehyde and bicyclo[2.2.2]oct-5-ene-2-carboxaldehyde; aromatic aldehydes, such as 4-methylbenzaldehyde; glycolates, such as allyl-2-(isopentyloxy)acetate; alcohols, such as phenethyl alcohol, nona-2,6-dien-1-ol, non-6-en-1-ol, 2,6-dimethylheptan-2-ol and cis hex-3-en-1-ol; sulfur compounds such as 2-(4-methylcyclohex-3-en-1-yl)propane-2-thiol and 4,7,7-trimethyl-6-thiabicyclo([3.2.1]octane; benzodioxepins, such as 7-methyl-2H-benzo[b][l,4]dioxepin-3-4H)-one; ketones, such as 3-methyl-2-pentylcyclopent-2-enone and 2-methyl-5-(prop-l-en2-yl)cyclohex-2-enone; furans, such as 5-tert-butyl-2-methyl-5-propyl-2H-furan; pyrans, such as 4-methylene-2-phenyltetrahydro-2H-pyran; phenols, such as eugenol (4-allyl-2-methoxyphenol); phenolic esters, such as p-tolyl acetate; nitriles, such as 4-isopropyl benzonitrile; aromatic ethers, such as 1-methoxy-4-propylbenzene; esters, such as ethyl isobutyrate, hexenyl acetate, and ethyl isovalerate; lactones, such as 5-pentyldihydrofuran-2(3H)-one; anthranilates, such as methyl 2-aminobenzoate; carboxylic acids, such as 2-phenylacetic acid; and mixtures thereof.

[0023] Another example of a deodorizing substance capable of masking bad odors consists of a combination of 1,8-para-menthenethiol and 3-mercaptohexyl acetate or an essential oil of Timur (Zanthoxylum armatum) containing this combination, which can be obtained from any part of Timur and in particular from its leaves, its bark, its fruits (berries) or their pericarp, more preferably from its berries.

[0024] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.5 to 15% by weight of perfuming or deodorizing substance, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight and more preferably from 8 to 12% by weight of perfuming substance. Solubilizing system

[0025] The composition according to the invention further comprises a solubilizing system including:

[0026] (i) at least one polyethoxylated sorbitan C6-C22 fatty acid ester,

[0027] (ii) at least one polyethoxylated C6-C22 fatty acid triglyceride,

[0028] (iii) at least one ester of glycerol and C6-C22 fatty acid-

[0029] Component (i) may be chosen from monoesters of C6-C22 fatty acids, preferably C10-C18, saturated or unsaturated, such as esters of lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic acid and mixtures thereof, of sorbitan comprising from 20 to 80 ethylene oxide units. It may in particular be chosen from: polysorbate 20, polysorbate 21, polysorbate 40, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 61, polysorbate 65, polysorbate 80, polysorbate 81, polysorbate 85 and mixtures thereof, preferably constituent (i) is polysorbate 20. Compounds of this type are for example available under the trade name Tween®. This constituent (i) may represent from 1.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 6 to 10% by weight of the composition.

[0030] For its part, constituent (ii) is chosen from triglycerides of C6-C22 fatty acids, preferably C8-C18, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated, such as esters of lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic acid and mixtures thereof, comprising from 5 to 100 ethylene oxide units. It may in particular be chosen from: polyethoxylated 12-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid (in particular PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL), polyethoxylated 12-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, derived in particular from castor oil (PEG-40 CASTOR OIL), polyethoxylated caprylic and capric acid triglycerides (in particular PEG-8 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC GLYCERIDES), polyethoxylated coconut acid triglycerides (in particular PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE), and mixtures thereof, preferably component (i) is a polyethoxylated 12-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid triglyceride.Compounds of this type are for example available under the trade names Eco Croduret® 40-SS (CRODA) or Cremophor® (BASF). Component (ii) advantageously represents from 1.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 6 to 10% by weight of the composition.

[0031] Component (iii) is an ester of glycerol and C6-C22 fatty acid, preferably C6-C12, such as esters of hexanoic, heptanoic, caprylic (octanoic), non-nanoic, capric (decanoic), lauric acid and mixtures thereof. It may in particular be chosen from: an ester of glycerol and a mixture of caprylic and capric acids, an ester of glycerol and capric acid, an ester of glycerol and caprylic acid, an ester of glycerol and heptanoic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferably component (iii) is an ester of glycerol and a mixture of caprylic and capric acids. Compounds of this type are available, for example, under the trade names Dub G Smart® (STEARINERIE DUBOIS), DUB810G® (STEARINERIE DUBOIS), Steol® GCC (STEPAN), Stepan Mild® (STEPAN), CremerCOOR® GC810 (CREMER OLEO) or Capmul® AB (ABITEC). Component (ii) may optionally consist of a mixture of mono-, di- and / or triesters as described above. In this case, it is preferred that it contains at least 30% by weight of monoglycerides, preferably 40 to 80% by weight of monoglycerides. Component (iii) may represent 0.5 to 7% by weight, preferably 2 to 7% by weight of the composition.

[0032] It is preferred that the solubilizing system included in the composition according to the invention consists solely of the components (i) to (iii) described above. Additives

[0033] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 95 to 100% by weight, preferably from 97 to 100% by weight of the constituents (a) to (c). More particularly, in addition to the solubilizing system and the perfuming or deodorizing substance, the composition may comprise at most 5% by weight, preferably at most 3% by weight of one or more additives chosen for example from antioxidants, preservatives and colorants, provided that these constituents do not harm the properties of the composition according to the invention.

[0034] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains less than 1% by weight of ethanol, or is even free of ethanol.

[0035] It is further preferred that the composition according to the invention is free of polyols, in particular glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, dipropylene glycol and / or methylpropylene glycol. Uses

[0036] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is intended to be used as is.

[0037] It can thus constitute a perfume, insofar as the solubilizing system according to the invention can be used as a replacement for all or part of the ethanol conventionally contained in fine perfumery products. In this case, the composition according to the invention generally contains from 10 to 30% by weight, preferably from 11 to 27% by weight of solubilizing system and from 5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 8 to 12% by weight, of perfume. The composition according to the invention can thus constitute an eau de Cologne, an eau de toilette or an eau de parfum. In this application, the composition is typically intended to perfume the body.

[0038] Alternatively, the composition according to the invention may constitute a deodorizing composition and generally contains from 3 to 20% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight of solubilizing system and from 0.5 to 7% by weight, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, of deodorizing substance. In this application, the composition is typically intended to deodorize a surface such as hair or a textile.

[0039] In these applications, given that the composition according to the invention constitutes an aqueous solution, it is preferable to use packaging adapted to this type of solution. Indeed, aqueous perfume solutions have a greater viscosity than alcoholic solutions. They therefore require a specific pump of the mist type in order to have good diffusion of the product on the skin, which will also reduce the evaporation time on the skin.

[0040] In another embodiment, the composition according to the invention is intended to be introduced into a cosmetic composition, with a view to producing a pleasant odor, masking a bad odor or generating a certain state of mind by inhalation (relaxation, stimulation, etc.).

[0041] The term "cosmetic composition" means a composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. compatible with the skin and / or its appendages (hair or nails) and preferably "cosmetically acceptable", i.e. which is not likely to generate redness, itching or tingling when the cosmetic composition is applied to the skin or its appendages. A cosmetic composition generally has the effect of modifying and / or improving the appearance of the skin or its appendages, or of preventing and / or correcting non-pathological alterations of the skin or its appendages. Examples of cosmetic compositions include perfumed care or cleansing products for the body or hair, as well as deodorants.

[0042] These cosmetic compositions may be in the form of mists, creams or gels, in particular. They may be packaged in a sprayer, a pot, a tube or a roll-on applicator, in particular.

[0043] The invention will be better understood in light of the following examples, which are given purely for illustrative purposes and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention, defined by the appended claims. FIGURES

[0044] [Fig. 1] represents the evolution over time of the transmission factor of compositions according to the invention and of a comparative composition devoid of constituent (iii).

[0045] [Fig. 2] represents the evolution over time of the transmission factor of a composition according to the invention and of comparative compositions comprising different polyols instead of constituent (iii). EXAMPLES

[0046] The examples below are given for purely illustrative purposes and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention which is defined by the appended claims. Example 1: Stability Test

[0047] Various compositions were prepared consisting of 73% by weight of deionized water, 10% by weight of perfume (Yago from CIF) and 17% by weight of a solubilizing system, namely:

[0048] Composition A: 17% of a "Mix Eco" association consisting of 8.5% of PO-LYSORBATE 20 and 8.5% of bio-sourced polyethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil (40 EO).

[0049] Composition B: 14% Eco Mix and 3% by weight of glyceryl caprylate / caprate.

[0050] Composition C: 12% Eco Mix and 5% by weight of glyceryl caprylate / caprate.

[0051] Composition D: 10% Eco Mix and 7% by weight of glyceryl caprylate / caprate.

[0052] The stability of a 20 ml sample of each of these compositions was evaluated in measuring the evolution of their transparency over 30 days. To do this, their transmission factor was measured at 25°C using a Turbiscan® device from FOR-MULACTION. The results of this test are shown in [Fig.l]. As can be seen from this Figure, comparative composition A very quickly falls below the transparency threshold corresponding to 80% transmission, which is not the case for Compositions B, C and D according to the invention, even after 30 days.

[0053] Glyceryl caprylate / caprate therefore helps to maintain the transparency of perfume compositions.

[0054] A similar test was carried out by combining glyceryl caprylate / caprate with other solubilizers, comprising: either a mixture of polyglycerol-3 cocoate, caprylyl / capryl glucoside and polyglycerol laurate (Gilasol® 100 from GILAS and Resassol Apostrophie® from SHARON), or heptyl glucoside (Sepiclear® G7 from SEPPIC): this stabilizing effect of glyceryl caprylate / caprate was not observed, which reflects a synergistic effect of the solubilizing system according to the invention.

[0055] Another test was carried out by substituting glyceryl caprylate / caprate (DUB) in composition B with polyols, namely propanediol (PDO), pentylene glycol (PENT) and butylene glycol (BUT). As shown in [Fig.2], after 15 days at room temperature, the samples containing the polyols lose their transparency. On the contrary, the composition according to the invention remains perfectly transparent even after 14 days. Example 2: Evaluation of the sticky effect

[0056] The stickiness of a perfume composition consisting of 68% deionized water; 12% perfume; 15% of a "Mix Eco" combination consisting of 8.5% POLYSORBATE 20 and 8.5% bio-sourced polyethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil (40 EO); and 5% glyceryl caprylate / caprate was evaluated. A comparative composition containing 20% ​​Mic Eco and lacking glyceryl caprylate / caprate also been tested.

[0057] To this end, a trained panel of 10 experts applied 40 μl of product to the back of one hand, which was then spread using 20 gentle circular movements made using 3 fingers of the other hand. After one minute, the stickiness of the residual film on the skin was assessed on a scale of 1 to 10. The average of the 10 scores obtained was then calculated.

[0058] The scores awarded to the composition according to the invention and to the comparative composition were respectively 2.8 and 4.4, which demonstrates the capacity of glyceryl caprylate / caprate to reduce the sticky effect of perfume compositions based on organic solubilizers.

[0059] A triangular test was then carried out by the same panel, under the same conditions: 70% of the panelists judged the two samples to be significantly different.

Claims

Claims

1. A water-based perfuming or deodorizing composition comprising: (a) at least one perfuming or deodorizing substance, (b) a solubilizing system comprising: (i) at least one polyethoxylated sorbitan C6-C22 fatty acid ester, (ii) at least one polyethoxylated C6-C22 fatty acid triglyceride, (iii) at least one glycerol C6-C22 fatty acid ester, and (c) water.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the constituent (i) is chosen from: polysorbate 20, polysorbate 21, polysorbate 40, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 61, polysorbate 65, polysorbate 80, polysorbate 81, polysorbate 85 and mixtures thereof, preferably the constituent (i) is polysorbate 20.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that constituent (i) represents from 1.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 6 to 10% by weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the constituent (ii) is chosen from polyethoxylated 12-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid triglycerides (in particular PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL), polyethoxylated 12-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, derived in particular from castor oil (PEG-40 CASTOR OIL), polyethoxylated caprylic and capric acid triglycerides (in particular PEG-8 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC GLYCERIDES), polyethoxylated lauric acid triglycerides (in particular PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE), and mixtures thereof, preferably polyethoxylated 12-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid triglycerides.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that constituent (ii) represents from 1.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 6 to 10% by weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the constituent (iii) is chosen from: an ester of glycerol and a mixture of caprylic and capric acids, an ester of glycerol and capric acid, an ester of glycerol and caprylic acid, an ester of glycerol and heptanoic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferably the constituent (iii) is an ester of glycerol and a mixture of caprylic and capric acids.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, ca- characterized in that component (iii) represents from 0.5 to 7% by weight, preferably from 2 to 7% by weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it comprises from 0.5 to 15% by weight of perfuming or deodorizing substance, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight and more preferably from 8 to 12% by weight of perfuming substance.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it comprises from 95 to 100% by weight, preferably from 97 to 100% by weight of the constituents (a) to (c).

10. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, for perfuming or deodorizing the atmosphere or a substrate such as the body and / or a textile.

11. Deodorizing or perfuming product in the form of a spray containing a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9.

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