GINKGO BILOBA EXTRACT TO STIMULATE EYELASH GROWTH

Abstract

GINKGO BILOBA EXTRACT TO STIMULATE EYELASH GROWTH The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a ginkgo biloba extract comprising a mixture of bilobalide and ginkgolides A, B and C, or a composition comprising them, to stimulate eyelash growth or improve the appearance of eyelashes.

Description

Title of the invention: GINKGO BILOBA EXTRACT FOR STIMULATING EYELASH GROWTH

[0001] The present invention relates to a ginkgo biloba extract for its cosmetic use for stimulating the growth and regrowth of eyelashes or improving the appearance of eyelashes. The invention also relates to a method for stimulating the growth and regrowth of eyelashes or improving the appearance of eyelashes as well as a kit for implementing this method. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Eyelashes grow on the free edges of the lower and upper eyelids. They are 6 to 12 mm long on average. The number of eyelashes on the upper eyelids varies between 150 and 200 per eyelid. The number of eyelashes on the lower eyelids varies between 50 and 150.

[0003] Hair follicles follow their own cycle. There is the anagen growth phase, which lasts about thirty days, then the intermediate catagen phase, a resting phase that stops growth and lasts about fifteen days, then the telogen phase, the end of the eyelash's life, which gives way to the start of a new eyelash cycle.

[0004] Today, physical appearance plays an important role in society. Since eyelashes line the eyes, their appearance, pigmentation, volume, or quantity is an important aesthetic criterion, especially for women.

[0005] Many factors can affect the appearance of eyelashes, such as excessive makeup, the use of harsh cosmetics, hormonal changes, menopause, stress, or a health problem. The change can range from a sparse appearance to total loss of eyelashes. Total loss of eyelashes is called hypotrichosis.

[0006] To date, the most common approach considered to treat this problem is a therapeutic approach.

[0007] As therapeutic agents known to stimulate the growth of eyelashes, mention may be made of products used in the treatment of glaucoma.

[0008] Prostaglandin analogs (PGAs) are commonly used in the treatment of glaucoma and work by reducing intraocular pressure.

[0009] However, one of the most commonly observed side effects in treated patients is the stimulation of eyelash growth, regrowth, enhanced pigmentation and increased eyelash volume.

[0010] For this reason, prostaglandin analogues (PGA) are now used in people without glaucoma but in whom stimulation of eyelash growth and development is desired.

[0011] The mechanism of action of prostaglandin analogues in the treatment of glaucoma is complex, but it is established that they act as neurotransmitters by binding to specific prostaglandin receptors present on the surface of the cell membrane and the nuclear envelope of hair follicles (Simon K Law Clin Ophthalmol. 2010; 4: 349-358). Through these receptors, prostaglandin analogues are able to activate a transition from the telogen phase to the anagen phase. For example, one study confirms that la-natoprost, a prostaglandin analogue, is able to induce hypertrichosis, i.e., eyelash growth, in 77% of patients (Demitsu et al.). Another unpublished study also confirms hypertrichosis in patients treated with bimatoprost, another prostaglandin analogue.

[0012] A few products based on prostaglandin analogues have been proposed on the market. An example is the product marketed under the brand name Latisse® by Allergan Inc., which contains 0.03% bimatoprost. Also mentioned is the product marketed under the brand name Revitalash Advanced® by Athena Cosmetics Inc., which contains 0.018% Dichloro Dihydroxy Difluoro Ethylcloprostenolamide (DDDE). Both products are in the form of eyeliners and are applied with a brush along the lash line. The recommended application frequency is once a day.

[0013] Mention will also be made of the medication in the form of Xalatan eye drops which contains 0.005% latanoprost.

[0014] These products are not considered cosmetic products but their use is often diverted for eyelash regrowth.

[0015] Although effective for eyelash regrowth, coloring, and increasing eyelash volume, prostaglandin analogs have adverse effects on many users. These include allergies, irritation, inflammation, excessive pigmentation of the iris, and dry eyes.

[0016] Furthermore, prostaglandin analogues remain therapeutic agents and do not belong to the category of cosmetic agents. Their use in cosmetic products has so far been tolerated but remains controversial. Thus, in Europe, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety recently indicated in an opinion that the use of prostaglandin analogues in cosmetics could present a risk to the health of consumers and that there are insufficient studies to determine the maximum concentration for use in cosmetics (SCCS / 1635 / 21).

[0017] Apart from prostaglandin analogues, amine receptor antagonists ralocorticoids (MRA) also have side effects on eyelash regrowth.

[0018] Thus, today, only therapeutic ingredients are available to stimulate eyelash growth. Apart from the fact that their undesirable effects are incompatible with cosmetic use, it should be noted that these are synthetic molecules. However, consumers increasingly expect to be offered products of natural origin.

[0019] There is therefore today a need to identify active agents of natural origin which are capable of inducing the growth or regrowth of eyelashes, increasing their length and thickness, strengthening their pigmentation, and which can be integrated into cosmetic products and used without causing undesirable effects.

[0020] The applicant company therefore worked in this context in order to research and identify such compounds of natural origin capable of stimulating the growth of eyelashes.

[0021] More particularly, the applicant company has directed its research towards the identification of neurotransmitters and more specifically towards the search for natural molecules which are receptor antagonists and therefore have a mechanism of action close to that of prostaglandin analogues and mineralocorticoid receptor antagonists. Summary of the invention

[0022] For this purpose, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a ginkgo biloba extract comprising a mixture of bilobalide and ginkgolides A, B and C, or of a composition comprising them, for stimulating the growth of eyelashes or improving the appearance of eyelashes.

[0023] Ginkgo biloba includes active agents used in the ophthalmic field or for the treatment of disorders of the central nervous system (Fitoterapia Volume 71, Supplement 1, 1 August 2000, Pages 543-547).

[0024] Like mineralocorticoid receptor antagonists (MRAs) that interact with receptors present on the cell surface, certain terpene lactones extracted from ginkgo biloba are also receptor antagonists, GABAa receptors and cortical glycine receptors according to a study by Lidija Ivic et al. (THE JOURNAL OF BIOLOGICAL CHEMISTRY Vol. 278, No. 49, Issue of December 5, pp. 49279-49285, 2003). γ-Aminobutyric acid (GABAa) receptors and glycine receptors are members of the ligand-gated ion channel family that inhibit synaptic transmission in the central nervous system. Ginkgolides and bilobalide, trilactone terpenes of ginkgo biloba, have varied effects on the central nervous system. This study demonstrates that ginkgolides are glycine receptor antagonists. Bi-lobalide also reduces glycine-induced ionic current, but slightly less than ginkgolides. Ginkgolides and bilobalide also inhibit GABAa receptors, with a more pronounced effect for bilobalide.

[0025] Ginkgolides and bilobalide have structural similarities: they have three lactones and a tert-butyl group. Ginkgolides A, B and C differ in the number and position of the hydroxyl groups. These terpene lactones are extracted from the leaves and roots of ginkgo biloba.

[0026] The invention also relates to a method for stimulating the growth of eyelashes or improving the appearance of eyelashes comprising the topical application to the base of the eyelashes or to the free edges of the upper or lower eyelids of a cosmetic composition comprising a ginkgo biloba extract comprising a mixture of bilobalide and ginkgolides A, B and C.

[0027] The invention also relates to a cosmetic kit for stimulating eyelash growth or improving the appearance of eyelashes comprising a cosmetic composition comprising a ginkgo biloba extract comprising a mixture of bilobalide and ginkgolides A, B and C and a delivery system comprising a container and an applicator in the form of a mascara-type brush, a lead, or an eyeliner-type brush.

[0028] DEFINITIONS

[0029] For the purposes of the invention, a “cosmetic use” means a use of an extract according to the invention, or of a composition comprising it, on healthy subjects, not suffering from any pathology, in particular an ophthalmic pathology.

[0030] For the purposes of the invention, "stimulation of eyelash growth or improvement of the appearance of eyelashes" includes increasing the length and thickness of eyelashes, increasing volume, the appearance of new eyelashes and strengthening their pigmentation. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0031] The invention thus relates to the cosmetic use of a ginkgo biloba extract comprising a mixture of bilobalide and ginkgolides A, B and C, or of a composition comprising them, to stimulate the growth of eyelashes or improve the appearance of eyelashes.

[0032] According to a characteristic of the invention, the stimulation of growth and the improvement of the appearance of the eyelashes are chosen from among the increase in their length and thickness, the increase in their pigmentation and / or the increase in the number of eyelashes.

[0033] Advantageously, the extract comprises between 2 and 4%, preferably between 2.5 and 3.5%, more preferably between 2.6 and 3.2%, even more preferably 2.9% of bilobalide, and between 2 and 4%, preferably between 2.5 and 3.5%, more preferably between 2.8 and 3.4%, even more preferably 2.9%, of ginkgolides A, B and C, by weight relative to the total weight of the extract.

[0034] An extract of bilobalide and ginkgolides A, B and C of ginkgo biloba used in the context of the invention can be obtained by any method known to those skilled in the art using organic solvents or water. Commercially available extracts can be used.

[0035] According to one embodiment of the invention, the extract is contained in a cosmetic composition containing a cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0036] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises between 0.70 and 1.0%, preferably between 0.75 and 0.96%, more preferably between 0.78 and 0.96%, more preferably still 0.87% of bilobalide, and preferably between 0.80 and 1.05%, more preferably between 0.84 and 1.02%, more preferably still 0.87%, of ginkgolides A, B and C, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] The cosmetic composition used may or may not be pigmented.

[0038] Preferably, when the cosmetic composition must be applied in the evening before going to bed, it is free of pigments.

[0039] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition used further comprises at least one other component chosen from castor seed oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil, cannabis sativa seed oil, tocopherol, urea, glutamate or one of their mixtures.

[0040] These components are added to the composition at a content of between 0.01 and 10%, preferably between 0.01 and 0.5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0041] Other components conventionally used in the cosmetic field may be added to the composition such as preservatives, pH regulators, solvents, vegetable oils or other cosmetic active agents.

[0042] The invention also relates to a method for stimulating the growth or improving the appearance of eyelashes, comprising the topical application to the base of the eyelashes or to the free edges of the upper or lower eyelids, of an extract, or of a cosmetic composition comprising it, as described above.

[0043] Advantageously, the application takes place using a delivery system comprising a container and an applicator in the form of a mascara-type brush, a lead or an eyeliner-type brush.

[0044] Application using an eyeliner type device is preferred in the context of the invention. Indeed, the brush of an eyeliner being very fine, it allows a deposit uniform product on the lash line.

[0045] Preferably, the application takes place at least once a day, preferably for a period of at least one month, more preferably at least two months.

[0046] Advantageously, the application takes place in the evening at bedtime, preferably using an eyeliner type brush.

[0047] Application in the evening allows the circadian rhythm of the skin to be taken into account, according to which repair mechanisms take place during the night and to a more limited extent during the day.

[0048] The invention finally relates to a cosmetic kit for stimulating the growth of eyelashes or improving the appearance of eyelashes comprising an extract, or a cosmetic composition comprising it, as described above and a delivery system comprising a container and an applicator in the form of a mascara-type brush, a lead or an eyeliner-type brush.

[0049] Advantageously, the composition is placed inside the container of the kit. EXAMPLES

[0050] Example 1: Clinical study

[0051] A composition according to the invention of the non-colored Eyeliner type and containing Bi-lobalide and Gingkolides A, B, C at concentrations of 0.87%, respectively, is prepared according to Table 1. A placebo control composition, devoid of Bi-lobalide and Gingkolides A, B, C, is prepared according to Table 2.

[0052] [Tables 1] COMPOSITION ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION Technical Name Range % Octyldodecanol 15-25 Excipient Ginkgo Biloba dry extract except flavonoids, Bilobalide, Ginkgolide 15-25 Ricinus communis seed oil, 10-17 copernicia cerifera cera 5-10 flavonoids 7.08 cera microcristallina 5-7 C20-40 alcohols 4-6 cera alba 3-5 Helianthus Annus Seed oil 3-5 Cl0-18 triglycerides 1-3 methyl methacrylate crosspolymer 0.5-1.5 Bilobalide 0.87 Ginkgolides A, B, C 0.87 glyceryl caprylate 0.5-0.9 Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil 0.5-0.8 ascorbyl palmitate 0.2-0.5 tridecyl trimellitate VP / hexadecene copolymer 0.1-0.6 citric acid 0.01-0.10 Total qs 100%

[0053] [Tables2] COMPOSITION PLACEBO CONTROL Name Technical Range % Octyldodecanol 20-35 Ricinus communis seed oil, 20-23 copernicia cerifera cera 10-13 cera microcrystalline 7-9 C20-40 alcohols 6-8 cera alba 5-8 Helianthus Annus Seed oil 5-8 Cl0-18 triglycerides 2-5 methyl methacrylate crosspolymer 0.9-1.5 glyceryl caprylate 0.7-1.4 Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil 0.3-0.8 ascorbyl palmitate 0.3-0.9 tridecyl trimellitate VP / hexadecene copolymer 0.1-0.6 citric acid 0.01-0.10 Total qs 100%

[0054] Conditions of the clinical trial:

[0055] Number of volunteers: 24 women aged 21 to 55.

[0056] Number of volunteers retained: 18 women after 9 weeks of use of the com placebo control positions and compositions according to the invention (with Bilobalide and Gingkolides A, B, C at 0.87%) on the right and left eye with a single application per day in the evening between 6 p.m. and 10 p.m.

[0057] Operating conditions of the optical bench: The length and diameter analyses are carried out using a high-resolution optical camera. The images are then analyzed using suitable software.

[0058] Statistical analysis: The diameter and length of the eyelashes of the upper eyelid are evaluated with suitable software.

[0059] Results collected between 8 and 9 weeks of use

[0060] [Tables3] CONTROL PLACEBO INVENTION Volunteer pair length, mm diameter, mm length, mm diameter, mm #1 10.36 0.07 12.27 0.1 #2 9.67 0.07 11.67 0.1 #3 10.36 0.08 11.88 0.1 #4 9.76 0.07 13.27 0.1 #5 9.76 0.06 13.76 0.09 #6 11.24 0.08 12.52 0.09 #7 10.39 0.07 12.67 0.1 #8 10.42 0.07 11.85 0.09 #9 10.33 0.07 13.21 0.09 #10 9.97 0.07 13.79 0.1 #11 10 0.07 11 0.09 #12 11 0.07 12.76 0.1 #13 10.21 0.08 13.03 0.1 #14 10.85 0.07 14.21 0.1 #15 10.15 0.08 13.21 0.09 #16 10.39 0.08 12.33 0.09 #17 10.61 0.08 11.91 0.09 #18 10.42 0.08 12.24 0.1 Mean 10.3 0.074 12.6 0.0949 Variance 0.2 2.50E-05 0.7 5.90E-06 Standard Deviation 0.4 0.005 0.8 0.0024

[0061] Conclusion: Use of the composition according to the invention containing 0.87% bilobalide and 0.87% gingkolide A, B, C for between 8 and 9 weeks induces statistically significant eyelash growth (Student's test with a probability p<0.05).

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic use of a ginkgo biloba extract comprising a mixture of bilobalide and ginkgolides A, B and C, or a composition comprising them, for stimulating eyelash growth or improving the appearance of eyelashes.

2. Use according to claim 1, wherein the extract comprises between 2 and 4%, preferably between 2.5 and 3.5%, more preferably between 2.6 and 3.2% of bilobalide, even more preferably 2.9% and between 2 and 4%, preferably between 2.5 and 3.5%, more preferably between 2.8 and 3.4%, even more preferably 2.9%, of ginkgolides A, B and C, by weight relative to the total weight of the extract.

3. Use according to one of claims 1 to 2, in which the extract is contained in a cosmetic composition containing a cosmetically acceptable excipient.

4. Use according to claim 3, in which the cosmetic composition comprises between 0.70 and 1.0%, preferably between 0.75 and 0.96%, more preferably between 0.78 and 0.96%, more preferably still 0.87% of bilobalide, and preferably between 0.80 and 1.05%, more preferably between 0.84 and 1.02%, more preferably still 0.87%, of ginkgolides A, B and C, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Use according to one of claims 3 to 4, in which the cosmetic composition is pigmented or not.

6. Use according to one of claims 3 to 5, wherein the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one other component chosen from castor seed oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil, cannabis sativa seed oil, tocopherol, urea, glutamate or a mixture thereof.

7. Use according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the stimulation of growth and improvement of the appearance of the eyelashes comprises increasing their length and thickness, increasing their pigmentation and / or increasing the number of eyelashes.

8. A method for stimulating eyelash growth or improving the appearance of eyelashes comprising the topical application to the base of the eyelashes or to the free edges of the upper or lower eyelids of an extract or a cosmetic composition as described in one of the claims- indications 1 to 6.

9. A method according to claim 8, wherein the application takes place using a delivery system comprising a container and a mascara-type brush applicator, a lead applicator or an eyeliner-type brush applicator.

10. Method according to one of claims 8 to 9, in which the application takes place at least once a day, preferably for a period of at least one month, more preferably at least two months.

11. Method according to one of claims 8 to 10, in which the application takes place in the evening at bedtime, preferably using an eyeliner type brush, and in which the cosmetic composition is non-pigmented.

12. Cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises between 0.70 and 1.0%, preferably between 0.75 and 0.96%, more preferably, more preferably between 0.78 and 0.96%, more preferably still 0.87% of bilobalide, and preferably between 0.80 and 1.05%, more preferably between 0.84 and 1.02%, more preferably still 0.87%, of ginkgolides A, B and C, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Cosmetic kit for stimulating eyelash growth or improving the appearance of eyelashes comprising an extract or a cosmetic composition as described in one of claims 1 to 6 and 12, and a delivery system comprising a container and an applicator in the form of a mascara-type brush, a lead, or an eyeliner-type brush.

14. A kit according to claim 13, wherein the composition is disposed inside the container.