POWDERY COMPOSITION WITH GOOD SEBUM ABSORPTION AND A GOOD TEXTURE
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023009671
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-09-14
- Publication Date
- 2025-03-21
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-09-14
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: POWDERY COMPOSITION WITH GOOD SEBUM ABSORPTION AND GOOD TEXTURE Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a powdery composition which is suitable for cosmetic treatments of keratin materials such as the skin. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Skin makeup cosmetics can generally be used to impart an attractive color to the skin, especially of the face, but can also be used to mask skin imperfections, such as redness, marks and wrinkles.
[0003] Some makeup cosmetics may be in the form of a powdery cosmetic composition. A powdery cosmetic composition generally comprises a high powder content, for example, at least about 70% by weight of powders, based on the total weight of the composition. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
[0004] Some conventional powdery cosmetic compositions do not provide sufficient long-lasting cosmetic effects on the skin. For example, if such a conventional powdery cosmetic composition is used over a long period of time, it might be difficult for the conventional powdery cosmetic composition to keep the skin matte and / or maintain the skin color unchanged, for a long period of time, due to the sebum including oil that is secreted over time on the skin. Considering their good usability, long-lasting cosmetic effects are desired for powdery cosmetic compositions. Thus, good sebum absorption capacity is required for long-lasting cosmetic effects of powdery cosmetic compositions.
[0005] In addition, a good texture is also required for powdery cosmetic compositions.
[0006] However, it was difficult for some conventional powdery cosmetic compositions to have both good sebum absorption capacity and good texture. In general, powdery cosmetic compositions having good sebum absorption capacity tend to have poor texture, while powdery cosmetic compositions having good texture tend to have poor sebum absorption capacity.
[0007] Thus, an objective of the present invention is to provide a composition powder that can have both good sebum absorption capacity and a good texture.
[0008] The above objective can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition and, more preferably, a cosmetic composition for making up keratin materials such as skin, comprising:
[0009] (a) at least one particle having
[0010] a wetting point for the oil of at least 150 ml / 100 g, and preferably at least 180 ml / 100 g;
[0011] and
[0012] (b) at least one charge other than the (a) particle,
[0013] in which
[0014] the total amount of the (a) particle(s) and the (b) filler(s) is greater than 80% by weight, preferably greater than 85% by weight and, even better, greater than 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0015] Particle (a) may have a wetting point for water of at least 200 ml / 100 g, preferably at least 250 ml / 100 g and, even better, at least 300 ml / 100 g.
[0016] The ratio of the wetting point for water to the wetting point for oil of the (a) particle may be less than or equal to 5, preferably less than or equal to 4 and, more preferably, less than or equal to 2.
[0017] The average size of the particle (a) may be 50 qm or less, preferably 30 qm or less, and more preferably 10 qm or less.
[0018] The (a) particle may be porous.
[0019] The (a) particle may comprise at least one polysaccharide, preferably cellulose.
[0020] The amount of the (a) particle(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 35% by weight and, more preferably, from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0021] The charge (b) may have been coated.
[0022] The (b) filler may be selected from the group consisting of micas, surface-treated micas, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from the group consisting of muscovite, synthetic fluorophlogopite, surface-treated synthetic fluorophlogopite, and a mixture thereof and, more preferably, selected from the group consisting of muscovite, synthetic fluorophlogopite, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane-treated synthetic fluorophlogopite, and a mixture thereof.
[0023] The amount of the (b)filler(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 40% to 80% by weight, preferably from 45% to 75% by weight and, better still, from 50% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0024] Thus, the amount of silica powder in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight and, more preferably, less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0025] Thus, the amount of a resin or plastic powder in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight and, more preferably, less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0026] The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a loose powder, or a compact or pressed powder, preferably in the form of a loose powder.
[0027] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic care process for keratin materials such as the skin, comprising:
[0028] the application to keratin fibers of the composition according to the present invention.
[0029] The present invention may also relate to a use of (a) a particle having:
[0030] a wetting point for the oil of at least 150 ml / 100 g and preferably at least 180 ml / 100 g
[0031] in a composition comprising (b) at least one filler other than the (a) particle, in which the total quantity of the (a) particle(s) and the (b) filler(s) is greater than 80% by weight, preferably greater than 85% by weight and, more preferably, greater than 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,
[0032] to improve both the absorption of sebum and the texture of the composition. Best mode for carrying out the invention
[0033] After careful research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a powdery composition which can have both good sebum absorption capacity and good texture.
[0034] The composition according to the present invention is a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition and, better still, a cosmetic composition for making up keratin materials such as the skin, comprising:
[0035] (a) at least one particle having
[0036] a moisture point for the oil of at least 150 ml / 100 g, and preferably at least 180 ml / 100 g;
[0037] and
[0038] (b) at least one charge other than the (a) particle,
[0039] in which
[0040] the total amount of the (a) particle(s) and the (b) filler(s) is greater than 80% by weight, preferably greater than 85% by weight and, even better, greater than 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0041] Since the total amount of the (a) particle(s) and the (b) filler(s) is greater than 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention, the composition according to the present invention can be considered as a powdery composition.
[0042] The composition according to the present invention can provide both good oil / sebum absorption capacity and good texture. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide both long-lasting cosmetic effects against sebum secreted over time on the skin and a comfortable feeling of use. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide good suitability for use:
[0043] If the (a) particle has a wetting point for water of at least 200 ml / 100 g, preferably at least 250 ml / 100 g, and more preferably at least 300 ml / 100 g, the composition according to the present invention can also have good water absorption capacity and, therefore, it can also provide good water resistance. Therefore, in this case, the composition according to the present invention can also provide long-lasting cosmetic effects against rain or sweat.
[0044] If the amount of a silica powder, in particular a porous silica powder, in the composition according to the present invention is less than 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, the risk of inhalation of the silica powder can be reduced or avoided.
[0045] If the amount of a resin or plastic powder, in particular a polyamide powder and a poly(meth)acrylate powder such as a Nylon® powder and a polymethyl methacrylate powder, in the composition according to the present invention is less than 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, contamination of the environment by the resin or plastic powder can be reduced or avoided.
[0046] Hereinafter, each of the present inventions will be described in detail.
[0047] [Composition]
[0048] The composition according to the present invention comprises:
[0049] (a) at least one particle having
[0050] a wetting point for the oil of at least 150 ml / 100 g, and preferably at least 180 ml / 100 g;
[0051] and
[0052] (b) at least one charge other than the (a) particle,
[0053] in which
[0054] the total amount of the (a) particle(s) and the (b) filler(s) is greater than 80% by weight, preferably greater than 85% by weight and, more preferably, greater at 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0055] (Particle)
[0056] The composition according to the present invention includes (a) at least one particle with specific properties. If two or more particles are used, they may be the same or different.
[0057] The (a) particles may take the form of a powder.
[0058] The (a) particle has a wetting point for oil of at least 150 ml / 100 g, and preferably at least 180 ml / 100 g, and / or preferably 1500 ml / 100 g or less.
[0059] The term "wetting point for oil" in the specification means an amount of oil required to make a target powder completely wet, which can be recognized, in particular, by the formation of a paste with the target powder.
[0060] The wetting point for the oil can be determined in accordance with ISO-787 / 5-1980, which corresponds to JIS K 5101-13-1, provided that isononyl isononanoate is used instead of linseed oil.
[0061] Specifically, the wetting point for oil can be determined by the following protocol. 1. 2 g of a target powder are kneaded using a spatula on a plate of glass while adding oil, especially linear ester oil, such as isononyl isononanoate (WICKENOL 151 / ALZO). 2. When the target powder becomes completely wet and begins to form a paste, the weight of the added oil is determined as the wetting point weight. 3. The wetting point for oil is calculated from the following equation: wetting point for oil (ml / 100 g) = {(wetting point weight) / 2 g]X100 / density of oil.
[0062] Since the (a) particle has a wetting point for oil of at least 150 ml / 100 g, the composition according to the present invention including the (a) particle can have good oil / sebum absorption capacity. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide long-lasting cosmetic effects against sebum secreted over time on the skin.
[0063] Sebum contains oil. Thus, the higher the wetting point for oil, the better the sebum absorption capacity.
[0064] It is preferable that the (a) particle also has a wetting point for water of at least 200 ml / 100 g, preferably at least 250 ml / 100 g, more preferably at least 300 ml / 100 g, even more preferably at least 350 ml / 100 g and / or preferably 1500 ml / 100 g or less.
[0065] Similarly, the term "wetting point for water" in the specification means an amount of water required to render a target powder completely wet, which can be recognized, in particular, by the formation of a paste with the target powder.
[0066] The wetting point for oil can also be determined according to ISO-787 / 5-1980, which corresponds to JIS K 5101-13-1, provided that water is used instead of linseed oil.
[0067] In particular, the wetting point for water can be determined by the following protocol. 1. 2 g of a target powder are kneaded using a spatula on a plate of glass while adding water with a density of 0.998 g / ml. 2. When the target powder becomes completely wet and begins to form a paste, the weight of the added water is determined as the wetting point weight. 3. The wetting point for water is calculated from the following equation: Wetting point for water (ml / 100 g) = {(the weight of the wetting point) / 2 g]X100 / the density of water.
[0068] If the (a) particle has a wetting point for water of at least 200 ml / 100 g, the composition according to the present invention including the (a) particle can have good water absorption capacity. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide long-lasting cosmetic effects against water, such as that in rain or sweat.
[0069] The higher the wetting point for water, the better the resistance to rain or sweat.
[0070] It is preferable that the ratio of the wetting point for water / wetting point for oil of the (a) cellulose particle used for the present invention is 5 or less, preferably 4 or less, more preferably 3 or less, and even more preferably 2 or less, and most preferably 0.1 or more.
[0071] The particle size of the (a) particle is not limited. However, it is preferable that the average particle size of the (a) particles is 50 pm or less, preferably 30 pm or less, more preferably 10 pm or less, even more preferably 2 to 5 pm.
[0072] The particle size of the (a) particle corresponds to a primary particle size. Furthermore, particle size herein refers to an average size or particle mean, which may be a volume average size, which may be determined, for example, by a laser diffraction particle size analyzer.
[0073] It is preferable that 90% or more of the (a) particles have an average (primary) particle size of 0.1 to 10 pm, preferably 0.5 to 8 pm, and more preferably 1 to 7 pm. If 90% or more of the (a) particles have an average (primary) particle size of 1 to 7 pm, optical effects due to the particles can also be obtained.
[0074] It is preferable that the longest diameter / shortest diameter ratio of the (a) particle is in the range of 1.0 to 10, preferably 1.0 to 5 and more preferably 1.0 to 3. It is preferable that the (a) particle is spherical, preferably with a longest diameter / shortest diameter ratio of 1.0 to 1.1.
[0075] The (a) cellulose particle may be porous or non-porous. However, it is preferable that the (a) particle is porous.
[0076] The porosity of the (a) particle may be characterized by a specific surface area of 0.05 m2 / g to 1,500 m2 / g, more preferably 0.1 m2 / g to 1,000 m2 / g, and even more preferably 0.2 m2 / g to 500 m2 / g according to the BET method.
[0077] The (a) particle may comprise any organic or inorganic material, which is not limited to, and may be selected from polysaccharides such as cellulose; boron compounds such as boron nitride; metal compounds such as alumina, barium sulfate and magnesium carbonate; perlites and mixtures thereof.
[0078] It is preferable that the (a) particle comprises at least one polysaccharide.
[0079] The polysaccharide may be selected from alginic acid, guar gum, xanthan gum, gum arabic, arabinogalactan, carrageenan, agar-agar, karaya gum, tragacanth gum, tara gum, pectin, locust bean gum, cardolan, gellan gum, dextran, pullulan, hyaluronic acid, cellulose and its derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Cellulose and its derivatives are preferable. Cellulose is even more preferable.
[0080] It is preferable that the (a) particle comprises cellulose. It is preferable that the (a) particle is made of cellulose. In other words, it is preferable that the (a) particle is a cellulose particle. Thus, the (a) particle may not be a composite particle including cellulose and any other material.
[0081] In the present invention, the cellulose that can be used is not limited by cellulose types such as cellulose I, cellulose II or the like. As the cellulose that can be used as a material for the (a) particle for the present invention, type II cellulose is preferable.
[0082] The cellulose which can be used as a material for the (a) particle can be in any particle shape, in particular, a spherical particle.
[0083] The cellulose particle, preferably a spherical cellulose particle, can be prepared, for example, as follows. 1. A suspension of calcium carbonate, as an aggregation inhibitor, is added to an alkaline aqueous solution of water-soluble anionic polymer and then stirred. 2. The viscose and the aqueous solution obtained in the above (1) are mixed to form a dispersion of fine viscose particles. 3. The dispersion of fine viscose particles obtained in the above (2) is heated to aggregate the viscose in the dispersion, and neutralized with acid, to form fine cellulose particles. 4. The fine cellulose particles are separated from the mother liquid obtained in point 3 above and washed and dried, if necessary.
[0084] Viscose is a raw material of cellulose. It is preferable to use viscose with a gamma value of 30 to 100% by mass and an alkali concentration of 4 to 10% by mass. As the above water-soluble anionic polymer, polyacrylic acid sodium salt, polystyrene sulfonic acid sodium salt and the like can be mentioned. The above calcium carbonate is used to prevent the aggregation of fine viscose particles in the dispersion and to reduce the size of cellulose particles. As the calcium carbonate paste, Tama Pearl TP-221GS marketed by Okutama Kogyo Co., Ltd. in Japan can be mentioned.
[0085] According to one of the embodiments, a cellulose derivative may be chosen from cellulose esters and ethers.
[0086] It is indicated that the term "cellulose ester" designates, in the above text, a polymer consisting of a sequence a (1-4) of partially or totally esterified anhydroglucose rings, the esterification being obtained by reaction of all or part of the free hydroxyl functions of said anhydroglucose rings with a linear or branched carboxylic acid or a carboxylic acid derivative (acid chloride or acid anhydride) containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
[0087] Preferably, the cellulose ester results from the reaction of certain of the free hydroxyl functions of said rings with a carboxylic acid containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
[0088] Advantageously, the cellulose esters are chosen from cellulose acetates, propionates, butyrates, isobutyrates, acetobutyrates and acetopropionates and mixtures thereof.
[0089] These cellulose esters may have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 3,000 to 1,000,000, preferably from 10,000 to 500,000 and, more preferably, from 15,000 to 300,000.
[0090] In the text hereof, the term "cellulose ether" designates a polymer consisting of an a (1-4) sequence of partially etherified anhydroglucose rings, some of the free hydroxyl functions of said rings being substituted by a radical -OR, R preferably being a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
[0091] The cellulose ethers are therefore preferably chosen from cellulose alkyl ethers with an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl and isobutyl cellulose ethers.
[0092] These cellulose ethers may have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 3,000 to 1,000,000, preferably from 10,000 to 500,000 and better still from 15,000 to 300,000.
[0093] As (a) particle, there may be mentioned, for example, the following spherical cellulose particles marketed by Daito Kasei in Japan: Cellulobeads USF.
[0094] The (a) particle may or may not be pre-coated.
[0095] In a particular embodiment, the (a) particle is originally coated. The material of an original coating of the particle is not limited, but an organic material such as a monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid or a salt thereof, an amino acid, an N-acylamino acid, an amido, a silicone, and a modified silicone may be preferable. As the organic material, potassium succinate, lauroyl lysine, and acrylic-modified silicone may be mentioned.
[0096] In other words, the (a) particle may be surface treated. Examples of surface treatments include the following treatments: 1. silicone treatments such as treatments with methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, dimethylpolysiloxanes and tetramethyltetrahydrogencyclotetrasiloxane in the gas phase 2. during treatments such as treatments for adding an alkyl chain and the like after the treatment of silicone in the gas phase 3. Treatments of silane coupling agents 4. Titanium coupling agent treatments 5. Treatments of aluminum coupling agents 6. Oil-based treatments 7. N-acylated lysine treatments 8. Polyacrylic acid treatments 9. Metallic soap treatments such as stearate salt or salt of myristate 10. Acrylic resin treatments 11. Metal oxide treatments
[0097] It is possible to carry out a plurality of surface treatments in combination with the above treatments.
[0098] The amount of (a) particle(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more and, more preferably, 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0099] Furthermore, the amount of (a) particle(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 40% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 35% by weight and, better still, less than or equal to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0100] The amount of the (a) particle(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 35% by weight and, even better, from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0101] (Charge)
[0102] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one filler other than (a) particle. If two or more fillers are used, they may be the same or different.
[0103] The (b) fillers may take the form of a powder.
[0104] The term "fillers" should be understood to mean colorless or white solid particles of any form, which are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition according to the present invention.
[0105] The (b) charge is different from the (a) particle.
[0106] The (b) filler may be inorganic or organic.
[0107] The (b) filler may be selected from the group consisting of non- spherical, especially lamellar fillers, spherical fillers (globular fillers) and mixtures thereof. Non-spherical charges
[0108] The non-spherical fillers are preferably chosen from non-spherical mineral fillers. Among the non-spherical mineral fillers which may be used in the composition according to the present invention, mention may be made of talc, kaolin, micas, magnesium aluminum silicate, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, perlite, calcined talc, calcined micas, synthetic micas, lauroyl lysine, metallic soap, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, magnesium carbonate and mixtures thereof.
[0109] It may be preferable that the (b) filler is chosen from micas, synthetic micas and mixtures thereof.
[0110] Mica is the name of a family of minerals, from the silicate group, subgroup of phyllosilicates, formed mainly of potassium and aluminum silicate. It is characterized by its layered structure (phyllosilicates).
[0111] It is characterized by its stratified structure (phyllosilicates) generally in the form of flakes, its metallic luster and its high heat resistance. The properties of micas, their transparency, their heterogeneity, their thermal properties and their good electrical insulation are such that they are found in many uses.
[0112] The micas which can be used according to the present invention preferably have an average size less than or equal to 100 qm, more preferably from 1 to 60 qm and even more preferably from 1 to 20 qm.
[0113] The term “average particle size” here refers to the median size of the volume D
[50] representing the maximum 50% volume size of the particles. The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial Malvem Master Sizer 3000 particle size analyzer, which can determine the particle size distribution of all particles over a wide range that can extend from 0.01 qm to 1000 qm. The data are processed using standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is most suitable for size distributions from submicron to multimicron and allows the determination of an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the publication by Van de Hulst, HC, “Light Scattering by Small Particles”) Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. D
[50] represents the maximum 50% volume size of the particles.
[0114] The micas that can be used according to the present invention are in a pure form. The micas can be chosen from the group consisting of sericite, muscovite, fluorophlogopite and a mixture thereof. Preferably, use will be made of:
[0115] - sericites such as the commercial product Sericite S-152-BC® (average size 6 qm) of the company Miyoshi Kasei;
[0116] - muscovite micas (CI77019) (INCI name: mica) such as the product commercial Mearlmica DD® and Mearlmica SV® from BASF, Sumicos Velvet Mica 43 037® from Souderarshan Chemical;
[0117] - synthetic fluorophlogopite micas (INCI name: syn fluorophlogopite thetic) such as the commercial product Synafil SI 15® (average size 7.6 qm) from the company Eckart; and
[0118] - their mixture s.
[0119] It may be preferable that the (b) filler is selected from the group consisting of muscovite, synthetic fluorophlogopite and a mixture thereof. Spherical charges
[0120] Among the spherical fillers that can be used, mention may be made of spherical mineral fillers and spherical organic fillers. By "spherical fillers" is meant fillers or particles comprising at least one generally rounded portion, preferably defining at least one portion of a sphere, which may internally define a concavity or a depression.
[0121] Spherical mineral fillers:
[0122] Among the spherical mineral fillers which can be used, mention may be made of glass or ceramic microcapsules, titanium dioxide and silica and titanium dioxide composites, for example the TSG range marketed by Nippon Sheet Glas s.
[0123] Spherical organic fillers:
[0124] Among the spherical organic fillers that can be used, mention may be made of lauroyl lysine, starch, carnauba microwaxes, such as the product marketed under the name mination Micro Care 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic microwaxes, such as the product marketed under the name Micro Ease 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes formed from a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the name Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, and microwaxes formed from a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax such as the product marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders Surface treated charges
[0125] The (b) filler may or may not be surface treated. In other words, the surface of the filler (b) may or may not be coated. Examples of surface treatments include the following treatments:
[0126] (1) Treatments of fluorine-based compounds such as treatments with per- fluoroalkylphosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoropolyethers, fluorosilicones and fluorinated silicone resins
[0127] (2) Silicone treatments such as treatments with methylhydrogenpo- lysiloxanes, dimethylpolysiloxanes and tetramethyltetrahydrogencyclotetrasiloxane in the gas phase
[0128] (3) During treatments such as treatments for adding an alkyl chain and similar after gas phase silicone treatment
[0129] (4) Treatments of silane coupling agents
[0130] (5) Treatments of titanium coupling agents
[0131] (6) Treatments of aluminum coupling agents
[0132] (7) Oil-based treatments
[0133] (8) N-acylated lysine treatments
[0134] (9) Polyacrylic acid treatments
[0135] (10) Metallic soap treatments such as those with stearate salt or salt of myristate
[0136] (11) Acrylic resin-based treatments
[0137] (12) Metal oxide treatments
[0138] It is possible to carry out a plurality of surface treatments in combination with the above treatments.
[0139] It may be preferable that the (b) filler is surface-treated with at least one silicone. The silicone may be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as polymethylphenylsiloxane, polydiarylsiloxanes such as polydiphenylsiloxanes, polyalkylhydrogensiloxanes such as methylhydrogenpolysiloxane and modified polysiloxanes.
[0140] As an example of the surface-treated filler, mention may be made of surface-treated micas such as surface-treated fluorophlogopite, preferably surface-treated micas. silicone such as silicone-treated fluorophlogopite and, better still, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane-treated micas such as methylhydrogenpolysiloxane-treated fluorophlogopite.
[0141] It is preferable that the (b) filler is selected from the group consisting of micas (unsurface treated), surface treated micas and mixtures thereof.
[0142] It is preferred that the (b) filler is selected from the group consisting of muscovite, synthetic fluorophlogopite, surface-treated synthetic fluorophlogopite and a mixture thereof.
[0143] It is even more preferable that the (b) filler is selected from the group consisting of muscovite, synthetic fluorophlogopite, synthetic fluorophlogopite treated with methylhydrogenpolysiloxane and a mixture thereof.
[0144] In one embodiment, a mixture of mica(s) (untreated on the surface) and surface-treated mica(s) may be used in order to achieve both good adhesion to keratin materials such as skin and good optical effects such as blurring effects.
[0145] It may be preferable that the weight ratio of the amount of mica(s) (unsurface treated) to the amount of surface treated mica is from 50:50 to 75:25, more preferably from 55:45 to 75:25 and, more preferably, from 60:40 to 75:25.
[0146] In another embodiment, a mixture of muscovite, synthetic fluorophlogopite and surface-treated synthetic fluorophlogopite such as methylhydrogenpolysiloxane-treated synthetic fluorophlogopite may be used.
[0147] It may be preferable that the weight ratio between the amount of muscovite and the amount of synthetic fluorophlogopite is from 50:50 to 25:75, more preferably from 45:55 to 25:75 and most preferably from 40:60 to 25:75.
[0148] It may be preferable that the weight ratio between the amount of muscovite and the amount of surface-treated fluorophlogopite is from 70:30 to 30:70, more preferably from 65:35 to 35:65 and, more preferably, from 60:40 to 40:60.
[0149] It may be preferable that the weight ratio of the amount of surface-treated fluorophlogopite to the amount of fluorophlogopite is from 50:50 to 20:80, more preferably from 45:55 to 25:75 and most preferably from 40:60 to 30:70.
[0150] The amount of the (b) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or more, preferably 45% by weight or more and, more preferably, 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0151] The amount of the (b) glycolipid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 80% by weight or less, preferably 75% by weight or less and, more preferably, 70% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0152] The quantity of the (b)filler(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 40% to 80% by weight, preferably from 45% to 75% by weight and, more preferably, from 50% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0153] (Oil)
[0154] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (c) at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be the same or different.
[0155] The oil (c) may function as a binder for a powder such as the (a) particle(s) and (b) filler(s) in the composition according to the present invention.
[0156] The oil (c) can also control the dispersion of a powder such as the (a) particle(s) and the (b) filler(s) in the composition according to the present invention. The oil (c) can also improve the adhesion of a powder such as the (a) particle(s) and the (b) filler(s) in the composition according to the present invention to the skin, and therefore, the oil (c) can provide a smooth feeling to the skin.
[0157] Herein, "oil" means a fatty compound or a fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0158] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon-based oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0159] The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.
[0160] It is preferable that the oil is chosen from synthetic oils, hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof, more preferably from ester oils, hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof and, even more preferably, from ester oils.
[0161] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0162] Examples of animal oils include squalene and squalane, for example.
[0163] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
[0164] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols. C26, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0165] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
[0166] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, di-caprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0167] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0168] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; dii-isopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
[0169] As ester oils, esters and diesters of sugars of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates compounds based on oxygen-bearing hydrocarbons containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0170] Examples of suitable sugars which may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and derivatives thereof, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0171] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids in C6-C30, and preferably in C12-C22. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0172] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0173] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0174] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0175] An example that can be cited is the product marketed under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0176] Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0177] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).
[0178] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
[0179] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
[0180] These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that may be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above, and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
[0181] Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968) by Walter Noll, Academie Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0182] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
[0183] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Cyclocopolymers of a type such as dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 marketed by the company Union Carbide, of formula: p* DD ——« DD —f CH, GH. I -* । - avoc D” : Si -.--0 -.-.-.--.-- . - Ss - Q ™- CH3
[0184] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and
[0185] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5x106 m2 / s at 25 °C. An example is deca-methyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.
[0186] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
[0187] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned, without limitation:
[0188] - Silbione® oils from the 47 and 70 047 ranges or Mirasil® oils commercially available marketed by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;
[0189] - oils from the Mirasil® range marketed by the company Rhodia;
[0190] - oils from the 200 range of the Dow Corning company, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; and
[0191] - Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils from the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
[0192] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 range from the company Rhodia.
[0193] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as a phenyl silicone oil.
[0194] The phenyl silicone oil can be chosen from phenyl silicones of the following formula:
[0195] in which
[0196] Ri to Rio are, independently of each other, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radicals and, better still, C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and
[0197] m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive and, more preferably, from 0 to 100 inclusive,
[0198] provided that the sum n+m+q is different from 0.
[0199] Examples that may be cited include products marketed under the following names:
[0200] - Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range from Rhodia;
[0201] - oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia;
[0202] - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;
[0203] - silicones from the Bayer PK range, such as the PK20 product;
[0204] - certain oils from the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0205] As phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (Rià Rio are methyl; p, q and n = 0; m=l in the above formula) is preferable.
[0206] Organomodified liquid silicones may in particular contain poly-ethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.
[0207] The hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from:
[0208] - lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that may be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, e.g. isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and
[0209] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam ® and squalane.
[0210] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or vaseline, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymer and mixtures thereof.
[0211] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and most preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.
[0212] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and, more preferably, from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from C12-C20 alkyl and C12-C20 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.
[0213] Examples of fatty alcohol include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, lino-leyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
[0214] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.
[0215] Thus, the fatty alcohol may be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C6-C3o alcohols, preferably saturated, linear or branched C6-C3o alcohols, and, better still, saturated, linear or branched C12-C20 alcohols.
[0216] The expression “saturated fatty alcohol” here designates an alcohol having a long chain aliphatic saturated carbon. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol be selected from any saturated, linear or branched C6-C30 fatty alcohols. Among the saturated, linear or branched C6-C30 fatty alcohols, saturated, linear or branched C12-C20 fatty alcohols may be used preferentially. Any saturated, linear or branched C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be used preferentially. Branched C16-C20 fatty alcohols may even more preferably be used.
[0217] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as behenyl alcohol, may be used as the saturated fatty alcohol.
[0218] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferentially chosen from octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0219] It may be preferable that (c) the oil is selected from polar oils, more preferably ester oils. In other words, it may be preferable that (c) the oil comprises at least one polar oil and, more preferably, at least one ester oil.
[0220] The amount of the (c) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more and, more preferably, 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0221] The amount of the (c) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less, and better still 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0222] The quantity of the (c) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.1% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 4% by weight and, better still, between 1% and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0223] [Additional Optional Components]
[0224] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one additional optional ingredient.
[0225] The additional optional ingredient may be selected from the group consisting of organic or inorganic UV filters; antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives, vitamins, humectants and anti-wrinkle active agent.
[0226] The amount of the additional ingredient(s) is not limited, but may be from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
[0227] [Preparation]
[0228] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the additional optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.
[0229] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
[0230] [Shape]
[0231] the total amount of the (a) particle(s) and the (b) filler(s) in the composition according to the present invention is greater than 80% by weight, preferably greater than 85% by weight and, even better, greater than 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0232] Thus, the composition according to the present invention is a powdered composition.
[0233] The amount of the (a) particle(s) and (b) filler(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 98% by weight or less and, more preferably, 97% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0234] In one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is anhydrous. As used herein, the term "anhydrous" means that an anhydrous composition may comprise water in an amount of 3% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not comprise water or does not include water.
[0235] It is preferable that the amount of a silica powder in the composition according to the present invention is less than 3% by weight, more preferably less than 2% by weight, and even more preferably less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not comprise silica powder.
[0236] It is preferable that the amount of a resin or a plastic powder in the composition according to the present invention is less than 3% by weight, more preferably less than 2% by weight and even more preferably less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0237] The resin or plastic powder may comprise at least one thermoplastic or thermosetting resin.
[0238] As resin or plastic powder, mention may be made, for example, of (meth)acrylic or (meth)acrylate powders, for example, polymethyl methacrylate powders; polyacrylonitrile powders; organopolysiloxane or silicone resin; polyamide powders (e.g., Nylon®); polyvinyl chloride powders; polyvinylidene chloride powders; polyolefin powders, polytetrafluoroethylene powders (e.g., TeflonO) and tetrafluoroethylene copolymer powders; polyurethane powders.
[0239] [Cosmetic application]
[0240] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for making up keratin materials, and even better still a powdery cosmetic composition for making up keratin materials.
[0241] The keratin materials may be skin, particularly facial skin, including the skin of the eyelids.
[0242] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is used as a cosmetic composition for the skin. The composition according to the present invention may be intended to color the skin, in particular the face, and / or to mask skin imperfections, such as redness, marks and wrinkles.
[0243] The composition according to the present invention can be used as various powdered cosmetic products, such as powdery makeup products, in particular powdery foundations.
[0244] The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a loose powder or a compact or pressed powder, preferably in the form of a loose powder.
[0245] If the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a compact or pressed powder, the composition according to the present invention may have been compacted or pressed by applying a pressure, for example, ranging from 5 MPa to 50 MPa, preferably from 10 MPa to 30 MPa. The composition according to the present invention in the form of a compact or pressed powder is not a free-flowing powder and may have a lumpy shape of particles.
[0246] Furthermore, if the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a loose powder, the composition according to the present invention may not have been compacted or pressed. The composition according to the present invention in the form of a loose powder is a free-flowing powder and may not be in the form of a mass of particles.
[0247] [Cosmetic process]
[0248] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic care process for keratin materials such as the skin, comprising:
[0249] the application to the keratin fibers of the composition according to the present invention.
[0250] The cosmetic process preferably includes the makeup of keratin materials such as the skin, preferably the skin of the face and the skin of the eyelids.
[0251] The cosmetic process according to the present invention can provide long-lasting cosmetic effects, such as long-lasting matte effects and / or color-retaining effects, because the composition used for the cosmetic process according to the present invention can have good sebum-absorbing capacity. Therefore, for example, skin imperfections, such as redness, marks, pores, and wrinkles on the skin, especially on the face, can be masked for a long time. Thus, the cosmetic film formed by the cosmetic process according to the present invention can have good staying power on the skin over time.
[0252] In addition, the cosmetic process according to the present invention or the composition according to the present invention can also provide a good texture or a good feeling of use.
[0253] [Use]
[0254] The present invention may also relate to a use of (a) a particle having:
[0255] a wetting point for the oil of at least 150 ml / 100 g and preferably at least 180 ml / 100 g
[0256] in a composition comprising (b) at least one filler other than the (a) particle, in which the total amount of the (a) particle(s) and the (b) filler(s) is greater than 80% by weight, preferably greater than 85% by weight and, more preferably, greater than 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,
[0257] to improve both the absorption of sebum and the texture of the composition.
[0258] The above explanations concerning ingredients (a) and (b) for the composition according to the present invention can be applied to those of the use according to the present invention.
[0259] The use according to the present invention can not only improve the sebum absorption of the composition, but also the texture of the composition.
[0260] EXAMPLES
[0261] The present invention will be described in more detail with the aid of examples which should not, however, be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2
[0262] [Preparation]
[0263] The following cosmetic compositions, in loose powder form, according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2, shown in Table 1, were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. The numerical values of the ingredient amounts shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" of active raw materials.
[0264] [Tables 1] Ex. 1 Ex. comp. 1 Ex. Comp. 2 (b) Mica 20 20 53 Synthetic Fluorophlogopite qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Synthetic Fluorophlogopite (and) hydrogen dimethicone 20 20 - (a) Porous cellulose (Cellulobeads USF, Daito Kasei) 20 - - (a') Non-porous cellulose (Tego Feel CIO from Evonik Goldschmidt) - 20 - (a”) Lauroyl Lysine - - 10 Oil 2 2 1 (a) or (a1) or (a") + (b) 98 98 99 Wetting point for oil 120.59 85.88 78.24 Texture 2 1.5 2
[0265] [Evaluations]
[0266] (wetting point for oil)
[0267] The wetting point for the oil of each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was determined by the following protocol.
[0268] (1) 2 g of the composition were kneaded with a spatula on a glass plate while by adding isononyl isononanoate having a viscosity of 9 cP at 25 °C and a density of 0.853 g / ml.
[0269] (2) When the composition was completely wet and began to form a paste, the weight of the added oil was determined as the wetting point weight.
[0270] (3) The wetting point for oil was calculated from the following equation: Wetting point for oil (ml / 100 g) = {(wetting point weight) / 2 g]X100 / density of oil.
[0271] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0272] The value of "Wetting Point for Oil" in Table 1 represents the sebum absorption capacity of the composition according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2.
[0273] (Texture)
[0274] The texture of each of the compositions according to Example 1 and the examples com- comparisons 1-2 was evaluated by sensory evaluation
[0275] Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was applied to the forearm of a panelist by a powder puff or a finger, and then the applied part was touched with a finger to evaluate the texture. The comments of the evaluation by the panelist were noted according to the following Table 2 and the sum of the scores was used as the value for the texture.
[0276] [Tables2] Rating Comments Rating Fluid +1 Soft +1 Thin +0.5 Slippery +0.5 Dry -1 Sticky -1 Hard -1
[0277] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0278] (Results)
[0279] A composition according to Example 1, which included a mica powder, a synthetic fluorophlogopite powder and a coated synthetic fluorophlogopite powder, and a porous cellulose powder, wherein the total amount of these powders was greater than 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, providing not only good oil / sebum absorption capacity, but also good texture.
[0280] The composition according to Comparative Example 1, which included a mica powder, a synthetic fluorophlogopite powder and a coated synthetic fluorophlogopite powder, as well as a non-porous cellulose powder, wherein the total amount of these powders was greater than 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, provided an oil / sebum absorption capacity and texture which were lower than those of the composition according to Example 1.
[0281] The composition according to Comparative Example 2, which included a mica powder and a synthetic fluorophlogopite powder, as well as a lauroyl lysine powder which is one of the conventional fillers, in which the total amount of these powders was more than 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, provided a good texture, but the oil / sebum absorption capacity of the composition was lower than that of the composition according to Example 1.
Claims
Claims
1. Composition, preferably cosmetic composition and, more preferably, cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising: (a) at least one particle having a wetting point for oil of at least 150 ml / 100 g, and preferably at least 180 ml / 100 g; and (b) at least one filler other than the (a) particle, wherein the total amount of the (a) particle(s) and the (b) filler(s) is greater than 80% by weight, preferably greater than 85% by weight and, more preferably, greater than 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the particle (a) has a wetting point for water of at least 200 ml / 100 g, preferably at least 250 ml / 100 g, and more preferably at least 300 ml / 100 g.
3. A composition according to claim 2, wherein the ratio of the wetting point for water to the wetting point for oil of the particle (a) is less than or equal to 5, preferably less than or equal to 4, and more preferably less than or equal to 2.
4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the average size of the particle (a) is less than or equal to 50 pm, preferably less than or equal to 30 pm, and more preferably less than or equal to 10 pm.
5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the (a) particle is porous.
6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (a) particle comprises at least one polysaccharide, preferably a cellulose.
7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, in which the filler (b) is chosen from the group consisting of micas, surface-treated micas and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from the group consisting of muscovite, synthetic fluorophlogopite, surface-treated synthetic fluoro-phlogopite and mixtures thereof, and better still chosen from the group consisting of muscovite, fluoro- synthetic phlogopite, synthetic fluorophlogopite treated with methylhydrogenpolysiloxane and mixtures thereof.
8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition is in the form of a loose powder, or a compact or pressed powder, preferably in the form of a loose powder.
9. Cosmetic process for keratin materials such as skin, comprising: applying to the keratin material the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8.
10. Use of (a) at least one particle having a wetting point for oil of at least 150 ml / 100 g and preferably at least 180 ml / 100 g in a composition comprising (b) at least one filler other than the (a) particle, wherein the total amount of the (a) particle(s) and the (b) filler(s) is greater than 80% by weight, preferably greater than 85% by weight and more preferably greater than 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, for improving both the absorption of sebum and the texture of the composition.