EMBROIDERED TEXTILE FABRIC AND ITS MANUFACTURING PROCESS

Abstract

The invention relates to an embroidered textile fabric comprising a base textile layer and a yarn made of a thermoplastic polymer material embroidered onto the base textile layer. The thermoplastic polymer yarn is a polyurethane-coated polyester yarn adapted to adhere to the base textile layer under the combined action of pressure and temperature for a predetermined duration. The base textile layer is a woven or non-woven textile layer. The polyurethane-coated polyester yarn is made to adhere to the base textile layer by means of a calendering operation with controlled values ​​of pressure, temperature, and rotational speed of the calendering rollers.

Description

Title of the invention: EMBROIDERED TEXTILE FABRIC AND METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING SAME Technical field

[0001] The present utility model relates generally to the textile sector and relates in particular to an embroidered textile fabric which has superior characteristics of durability, strength and appearance of the embroidery, and can be produced by means of manufacturing processes which are less polluting and costly than conventional processes. State of the art

[0002] Embroidered textile fabrics consisting of an embroidered textile base layer onto which a polyurethane laminate or membrane is bonded to cover and protect the embroidery are known in the art. However, in the practical use of such embroidered textile fabrics, it has been found that the protection offered by polyurethane laminates is generally ineffective in terms of durability and strength, and also negatively affects the aesthetic appearance of the embroidery. Another disadvantage of using the above-mentioned polyurethane laminates is that these are bonded to the embroidered textile base layer by means of tedious manufacturing processes in which polluting chemicals are used. Summary of the utility model

[0003] The objective of the utility model is to overcome the above-mentioned disadvantages of the prior art and to provide an embroidered textile fabric which has superior characteristics in terms of durability, strength and appearance of the embroidery, and which can be manufactured without requiring the use of polyurethane laminates or membranes and their bonding with environmentally polluting chemicals.

[0004] More particularly, according to the present utility model, this objective is achieved by an embroidered textile fabric comprising a base textile layer and a yarn formed from a thermoplastic polymer material embroidered onto the base textile layer, characterized in that said yarn of thermoplastic polymer material is a polyurethane-coated polyester yarn which is adapted to adhere to the base textile layer under the combined action of pressure and temperature for a predetermined time.

[0005] According to a feature of the utility model, the base textile layer is a woven or non-woven textile layer.

[0006] According to a characteristic of the utility model, in the case of “macrame” type embroidery, the basic textile layer is a support layer of cellulose acetate.

[0007] According to another feature of the utility model, the polyurethane-coated polyester yarn is made to adhere to the base textile layer by a calendering operation with controlled values ​​of pressure, temperature and rotation speed of the calendering rollers.

[0008] According to a characteristic of the method for manufacturing an embroidered textile fabric according to the invention, in the case of “macramé” type embroidery, after the calendering operation, the base textile layer is subjected to a cold dissolution operation using a suitable solvent, for example of the ketone type.

[0009] These and other features of the utility model will become apparent from the detailed description of the utility model given below. Description of the utility model

[0010] Although polyurethane-coated polyester threads are already known and commercially available in the art, their use for the production of embroidered textile articles is a novelty in the textile sector. Compared to threads traditionally used for embroidering textile fabrics, polyurethane-coated polyester threads have greater elasticity, strength and flexibility. In addition, once the embroidery is carried out with a polyurethane-coated polyester thread, it is possible to impart water-repellent properties to the embroidery by means of a final finish at a temperature between 140°C and 150°C.

[0011] The utility model is therefore based on the idea of ​​exploiting these advantageous technical characteristics of polyurethane-coated polyester threads to produce high-quality and durable embroidery using conventional automatic or semi-automatic industrial embroidery machines. Unexpectedly, the embroidery made with polyurethane-coated polyester threads also exhibits a high level of quality and definition of the embroidery details. The basis of this unexpected technical result appears to be the characteristic of polyurethane-coated polyester threads of having a thermoformable structure. This allows the polyurethane-coated polyester threads to be subjected to a melting process once the embroidery has been carried out on a base textile layer.The fusion process not only gives greater strength and impermeability to the embroidery, but also gives it a unique pattern and appearance, with greater shine and a smooth surface, thus offering the possibility of creating embroideries with high definition and contrast compared to embroideries made with traditional threads.

[0012] In addition, polyurethane-coated polyester yarns have unique properties of transparency and reflectivity that can create effects of luminosity and iridescence on fabrics, making them ideal for creating embroidery on lightweight summer garments. Due to their lightness and strength, coated polyester yarns polyurethane thus offers new creative possibilities for unique and innovative embroidered clothing and clothing accessories.

[0013] Tests carried out on a high-speed automatic embroidery machine have demonstrated the effectiveness of polyurethane-coated polyester threads in retaining their strength even at high embroidery speeds, thus providing an innovative way of using this type of thread in the field of embroidered fabrics.

[0014] As mentioned above, a particular feature of polyurethane-coated polyester yarns, which is exploited in the realization of the present utility model, is the fact of having a thermoformable structure. This makes it possible to cause a polyurethane-coated polyester yarn to adhere to a base textile layer by means of a finishing operation under the combined action of pressure and temperature. This not only solves the disadvantages of traditional bonding processes that use environmentally polluting chemicals, but also completely changes the performance of the yarn, transforming it into a fused material having a distinctive appearance.

[0015] A detailed description is given below of the finishing operation of an embroidery made with a polyurethane-coated polyester thread on a base textile layer. In the finishing operation, the polyurethane-coated polyester thread is made to adhere to the base textile layer under the combined action of pressure and temperature applied for a predetermined time. This method is a more durable alternative to the traditional technique of applying an adhesive to fix polyurethane laminates or membranes to cover and protect the embroidery. According to the present utility model, the polyurethane is now incorporated directly onto the polyester thread (polyester core and polyurethane coating) used to make the embroidery, which makes it possible to obtain a high-quality embroidery which is then finished by a calendering operation.

[0016] As is well known, a calendering operation involves passing a fabric through pairs of cylinders or rollers, some rigid and heated by oil, steam or electrical resistances, others elastic, and compressing the fabric with high compressive forces. For finishing embroidery on a textile fabric according to the utility model, a calender equipped with a steel roller and a Teflon roller is used. This configuration allows the optimal speed, pressure and temperature to be applied in order to obtain the desired results. Between the calender rollers and the embroidered fabric, a release paper can be inserted for finishing leather, faux leather and fabrics with different degrees of finish, generally high gloss, semi-gloss and semi-matte.By regulating the temperature, speed and compression force between the cylinders, it is possible to obtain different characteristics or finishing effects on the embroidery and . modify its initial appearance. These effects mainly fall into three categories described below: 1. Pressing the embroidery#

[0017] The pressing of the embroidery is achieved using a two-roller calender operating at a pressure of about 3 kgf / cm2, a temperature of about 110°C and a feed rate of about 3 m / min. The calendering operation with these processing parameters will give the embroidery an opaque and flattened appearance on the base textile layer. 1. Improved pressing and polishing of embroidery.#

[0018] Improved pressing and polishing of the embroidery is achieved using a two-roll calender operating with a pressure of about 3 kgf / cm2, a temperature of about 150°C and a feed rate of about 2.8 m / min. The calendering operation with these processing parameters gives the embroidery a uniform and glossy appearance on the base textile layer. 1. Fusion of the yarn onto the base textile layer#

[0019] The fusion of the yarn onto the base textile layer is achieved using a two-roller calender operating at a pressure of about 3 kgf / cm2, a temperature of about 180°C and a feed rate of about 2.5 m / min. The calendering operation with these process parameters ensures that the polyurethane coating of the polyester yarn is completely integrated with the fibers of the base textile layer, thus providing greater durability to the embroidery.

[0020] The polyurethane-coated polyester thread can also be used to make a “macrame” type embroidery. In this case, the embroidery creation process comprises a step of making the embroidery on a cellulose acetate support layer, which has adequate strength characteristics to ensure that the embroidery can be made accurately using automatic or semi-automatic industrial embroidery machines, and a subsequent step of cold dissolving the support layer by means of a suitable solvent, for example of the ketonic type. Before the embroidery support layer is dissolved, it is passed through a calender with rollers heated to a temperature of about 160°C in order to melt the polyurethane coating of the polyester thread onto the support layer itself, which is then dissolved, leaving only a polyurethane-coated embroidery.This process allows for unique and durable shapes thanks to the properties of polyurethane, without the use of glues and glued laminates. The embroidery will therefore have no support layer and will be directly bonded by the thread itself.

[0021] In addition to giving embroidery superior characteristics in terms of durability, strength and appearance, the use of polyurethane-coated polyester thread has a lower environmental impact than glues and other substances used in the production of embroidery with traditional finishing techniques. From a health point of view, avoiding the use of special glues can reduce the risk of allergies and skin irritations for textile industry workers and consumers of finished products. In addition, polyurethane can be recycled and reused, reducing the consumption of fresh resources.

[0022] With regard to the creation of an embroidered textile article using a polyurethane-coated polyester thread, it should be noted that the use of such a thread does not require any particular adaptations or modifications of the known traditional embroidery processes and the associated machines for their implementation. In particular, the embroidered textile article can be produced using conventional computerized embroidery machines, for example multi-needle embroidery machines, "schiffli" embroidery machines and / or horizontal embroidery machines.

[0023] In conclusion, the use of a polyurethane-coated polyester thread for embroidery allows for a complete and high-quality embroidery which is then finished by means of a calendering operation on well-known machines. The embroidery thus obtained is more resistant to washing and abrasive wear. In addition, the use of a polyurethane-coated polyester thread allows for the replacement of traditional practices using special glues with a more sustainable and environmentally friendly process.

Claims

Claims

1. An embroidered textile fabric comprising a base textile layer and a yarn formed of a thermoplastic polymer material embroidered onto the base textile layer, characterized in that said yarn of thermoplastic polymer material is a polyurethane-coated polyester yarn which is adapted to adhere to the base textile layer under the combined action of pressure and temperature for a predetermined time.

2. Embroidered textile fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that said base textile layer is a woven or non-woven textile layer.

3. Embroidered textile fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that, in the case of “macramé” type embroidery, the base textile layer is a cellulose acetate support layer.

4. A method of manufacturing an embroidered textile fabric according to claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the polyurethane-coated polyester yarn is made to adhere to the base textile layer by means of a calendering operation with controlled values ​​of pressure, temperature and rotational speed of the calendering rollers.

5. Manufacturing method according to claim 4, characterized in that, in the case of “macrame” type embroidery, after the calendering operation, the base textile layer is subjected to a cold dissolution operation using a suitable solvent, for example of the ketone type.