Low water content oil-in-water emulsion comprising a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, a linear silicone polyol, hyaluronic acid, vitamin B3 and a xanthine base

Abstract

Low water content W / O emulsion comprising a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, a linear silicone polyol, hyaluronic acid, vitamin B3 and a xanthine base. The present invention is a skincare and / or makeup composition for keratinous materials, in particular, of the skin, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one continuous oily phase comprising i) at least one volatile oil and ii) at least one non-volatile oil, and b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase, where the amount of water is less than 20.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; etc.) at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer, and d) at least one emulsifying surfactant selected from linear polyoxyalkylated polydimethylmethylsiloxanes of HLB ≤ 8.0, and e) at least one hyaluronic acid; etf) at least one vitamin B3 and / or one of its derivatives;etg) at least one xanthic base and / or a plant extract containing it.;

Description

Title of the invention: Low water W / O emulsion comprising a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, a linear silicone polyol, hyaluronic acid, a vitamin B3 and a xanthic base Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of care and / or makeup of keratin materials, and aims to propose compositions more particularly dedicated to the care and / or makeup of the skin.

[0002] The skin is not a smooth, solid-colored surface and has reliefs and microreliefs such as pores, fine lines, wrinkles, spots, scars, dry areas, which form a somewhat bumpy surface. Quite often, this surface, with its irregularities, forms a whole that is pleasant to look at, but the irregularities are such that sometimes the surface is considered unsightly.

[0003] Cosmetic makeup and / or care compositions are commonly used to camouflage, smooth and / or unify imperfections in the skin's texture such as pores, wrinkles and / or fine lines and / or scars. In this regard, numerous formulations, solid or fluid, anhydrous or not, have been developed to date.

[0004] The application of a makeup composition such as a foundation is the most effective approach to beautifying uneven skin by hiding spots and discolorations, reducing the visibility of relief imperfections such as pores and wrinkles, and masking spots and traces of acne; in this respect, coverage is one of the main properties sought.

[0005] Water-in-oil emulsions are highly sought-after galenic forms for their ease of application to the skin and their sensoriality in cosmetics in the field of care, particularly in sunscreen compositions, in anti-aging compositions and in makeup such as foundations.

[0006] Emulsions can be defined as heterogeneous systems comprising at least two immiscible liquid phases, or having very low miscibility between them. In these systems, one of the phases is dispersed in the form of fine droplets in the other phase, so as to observe a macroscopically homogeneous mixture with the naked eye. Conventionally, the formulator of cosmetic compositions uses emulsified systems combining an aqueous phase for freshness and an oily phase for comfort. They allow the combination within the same composition of cosmetic ingredients or active ingredients having affinities distinct with respect to these two aqueous and fatty phases, immiscible at room temperature.

[0007] Inverse emulsion type compositions (water-in-oil emulsion, the aqueous phase being in a dispersed form in the continuous fatty phase) have numerous advantages, with regard to the good level of coverage and the homogeneous appearance that they provide compared to direct emulsions (oil-in-water emulsions).

[0008] Xanthic bases, particularly caffeine, are known in keratin care and makeup products for their antioxidant properties, which slow down skin aging. However, these active ingredients, such as caffeine, have limited solubility in water at room temperature (25°C). Even if they can be dissolved, they can precipitate and form crystals.

[0009] It has already been proposed in applications WO14059228, US9107853, US9072919, WO15002872 and in the patent to use hydrotropic agents in particular chosen from vitamin B3, caffeine and their mixtures in aqueous formulations to improve the solubility of Baicalin.

[0010] Patent EP3558216B1 discloses water-in-oil emulsions comprising at least Baicalin and / or one of its derivatives, vitamin B3 and / or one of its derivatives and at least one xanthic base and / or a plant extract containing it and at least one multivalent cation salt.

[0011] There remains a need to find new compositions in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, which are stable and comprise at least one xanthic base and / or a plant extract containing it without the drawbacks stated above, namely without the appearance of crystals in the composition, having a homogeneous appearance, good coverage and good comfort properties on application, good makeup hold and good optical effects for correcting relief or color imperfections.

[0012] Unexpectedly, the inventors have found that it is possible to achieve these objectives with a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one continuous oil phase comprising i) at least one volatile oil and ii) at least one non-volatile oil, and b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase where the amount of water is less than 20.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and c) at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer, and d) at least one emulsifying surfactant chosen from linear polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylmethyl-siloxanes with HLB < 8.0, and

[0013] e) at least one hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives; and (f) at least one vitamin B3 and / or one of its derivatives; and g) at least one xanthic base and / or a plant extract containing it.

[0014] This discovery is the basis of the invention. Objects of the invention

[0015] Thus, a first object of the present invention is a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one continuous oily phase comprising i) at least one volatile oil and ii) at least one non-volatile oil, and b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase, where the amount of water is less than 20.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and c) at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer, and d) at least one emulsifying surfactant chosen from linear polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylmethyl-siloxanes with HLB < 8.0, and e) at least one hyaluronic acid; and (f) at least one vitamin B3 and / or one of its derivatives; and g) at least one xanthic base and / or a plant extract containing it.

[0016] A second subject of the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for coating, in particular for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin such as the face, hands, eyelids, cheeks, comprising at least: the step of applying the composition, a composition as defined above on said keratin materials. Definitions

[0017] In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is understood to mean in particular skin such as the face, body, hands, cheeks, eyelids, and the contour of the eyes.

[0018] By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.

[0019] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “emulsifying surfactant” means an amphiphilic surfactant compound, i.e. one having two parts of different polarity. In general, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase), the other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by the value of their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic balance), the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the part lipophilic in the molecule. The term HLB is well known and is described for example in The HLB System. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection (published by ICI Americas Inc; 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of W / O emulsions. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the GRIFFIN method or the DA VIES method.

[0020] By water-in-oil emulsion is meant a composition comprising an immiscible oily phase and an aqueous phase; the aqueous phase being dispersed in the form of droplets in the oily phase (called continuous) so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous composition.

[0021] By oil is meant a fatty organic body which is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760mm Hg or 105 Pa).

[0022] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0023] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetry effusion method, as a function of the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104). Oily phase

[0024] A cosmetic composition in accordance with the present invention comprises a continuous oily phase containing i) at least one volatile oil and ii) at least one non-volatile oil.

[0025] Oil means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure.

[0026] A composition of the invention may comprise an oily phase in a content varying from 25 to 85%, in particular from 30 to 50%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. a. Volatile oils

[0027] The volatile oils in accordance with the invention may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0028] The term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.

[0029] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0030] The volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from branched C8-C16 alkanes. Mention may in particular be made of C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permetyl®.

[0031] Mention may also be made of branched C8-C16 esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Soit® by the company SHELL, may also be used.

[0032] The volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0033] As an example of linear alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO2007 / 068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from copra or palm oil.

[0034] As examples of linear C6-C14 alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-hexane (C6); n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), and mixtures thereof.

[0035] Mention may in particular be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12 97® and PARAFOL 14 97®, as well as their mixtures.

[0036] According to another embodiment, a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane is used. In particular, the dodecane / tetradecane mixture in the weight ratio 85 / 15 marketed by the company BIOSYNTHIS under the reference VEGELIGHT 1214® can be used.

[0037] According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of volatile linear C9-C12 alkanes with the INCI name: C9-12 ALKANE is used, such as the product marketed by the company BIOSYNTHIS under the reference VEGELIGHT SILK®.

[0038] According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of n-undecane (Cl 1) and n-tridecane (Cl3) is used, such as those obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 from the company Cognis and such as that sold under the trade name CETIOL ULTIMATE® by the company BASF.

[0039] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is isododecane.

[0040] As volatile silicone oils, it is also possible to use volatile silicones, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular, those having a viscosity less than or equal to 8 103 mm2 / s (est), in particular ranging from 2 to 6 10 3 mm2 / s (est), and having, in particular, from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular, from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxyl groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made, in particular, of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0041] According to a preferred embodiment, the volatile silicone oil is dodecamethyl pentasiloxane such as the commercial product sold under the name DM-FLUID-2CS® by the company SHIN ETSU.

[0042] According to a preferred embodiment, the oily phase comprises a mixture of volatile oils comprising isodecane and dodecamethyl pentasiloxane.

[0043] Preferably, the volatile oil or oils are present in an amount varying from 25 to 85%, in particular from 20 to 35%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. b) Non-volatile oils

[0044] The non-volatile oils in accordance with the invention may be chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, non-volatile silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0045] The term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.

[0046] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0047] As non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, we can notably cite: - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, physostearyl isostearate and glutamate lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203®), triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C36, and, in particular, from C18 to C36, these oils being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils may, in particular, be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, pumpkin oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea butter, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach almond oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, copra oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil,lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St. John's wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, pumpkin oil, pumpkin seed oil, rosehip oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, and watermelon seed oil, and mixtures thereof, or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel, - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane; - synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether; - synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R1COOR2, in which RI represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that the sum of the number of carbon atoms in the RI and R2 chains is greater than or equal to 10.the esters may be, in particular, chosen from alcohol and fatty acid esters, such as for example: cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, dii-isopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and . ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol diethyl 2-hexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldocecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate (AJINOMOTO-ELDEW SL-205®), diisopropyl sebacate (DUB DIS® - STEARINERIES DUBOIS); - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate (COSMOL 168 EV® - NISSHIN OILLIO); - esters of dimer diols and dimer diacids, such as LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and LUSPLAN DD-DA7®, marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL and described in application US 2004-175338; - copolymers of dimer diol and dimer diacid and their esters, such as dilinoleyl diol / dimer dilinoleic copolymers and their esters, such as PLANDOOL-G®; - copolymers of polyols and dimer diacids, and their esters, such as HAILUSCENT ISDA®, or dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer; - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol; - higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof; - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being able to be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis; and their mixtures.

[0048] According to a particular form of the invention, a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil chosen from isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, and mixtures thereof will be used.

[0049] The non-volatile silicone oils can be chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms such as caprylylmethicone; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes (INCI name: DIPHENYLSILOXY PHENYL TRIMETHICONE), diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenyl ethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates; and mixtures thereof.

[0050] According to a preferred form, the non-volatile silicone oil is a phenylated silicone oil, in particular an oil with the INCI name: DIPHENYLSILOXY PHENYL TRL METHICONE such as the commercial product KF-56A® from SHIN ETSU.

[0051] According to a particularly preferred form, the oily phase comprises a mixture of non-volatile oils comprising isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, dii-isopropyl sebacate, dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate and DIPHENYLSILOXY PHENYL TRIMETHICONE.

[0052] Preferably, the non-volatile oil or oils are present in an amount varying from 25 to 85%, in particular from 25 to 35%, more particularly from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0053] The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase dispersed in the oily phase where the quantity of water is less than 20.0% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 10 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally water-soluble or water-miscible ingredients such as water-soluble organic solvents.

[0055] Among the water-soluble solvents which may be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, mention may in particular be made of lower monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0056] A water suitable for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a thermal water.

[0057] Water suitable for the invention may also be demineralized water. Hydrophobic film-forming polymer

[0058] For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymer" means a compound corresponding to the repetition of one or more units (these units being derived from compounds called monomers). This or these units are repeated at least twice and preferably at least 3 times.

[0059] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrophobic film-forming polymer” is intended to denote a film-forming polymer lacking an affinity for water and as such not suitable for formulation in the solute state in an aqueous medium. In particular, the term “hydrophobic polymer” is intended to mean a polymer having a solubility in water at 25°C of less than 1% by weight.

[0060] By film-forming polymer is meant a polymer capable of forming, on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on a support, in particular on keratin materials, and preferably a cohesive film, and better still a film whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said film can be isolated and handled in isolation, for example when said film is produced by casting onto a non-stick surface such as a Teflon-coated or silicone-coated surface.

[0061] In particular, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is a polymer chosen from the group comprising film-forming polymers soluble in an organic solvent medium, in particular liposoluble polymers; this means that the polymer is soluble or miscible in the organic medium and will form a single homogeneous phase when it is incorporated into the medium.

[0062] As hydrophobic film-forming polymer, mention may in particular be made of: - silicone resins; - ethylenic block copolymers; - vinyl polymers comprising at least one unit derived from carbosiloxane dendrimer; - silicone acrylate copolymers; - their mixtures.

[0063] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises, from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more particularly from 2 to 7% by weight of active material of hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s), relative to the total weight of the composition. I. Silicone resins

[0064] More generally, the term resin means a compound whose structure is three-dimensional. Silicone resins are also called silicone resins or siloxane resins. Thus, for the purposes of the present invention, a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.

[0065] The nomenclature of silicone resins (also called siloxane resins or silicone resins) is known as MDTQ, the resin being described according to the different siloxane monomeric units that it comprises, each of the letters MDTQ characterizing a type of unit.

[0066] The letter M represents the Monofunctional unit of formula RlR2R3SiOi / 2, the silicon atom being linked to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.

[0067] The letter D signifies a functional Di unit RIR2SiO2 / 2 in which the silicon atom is linked to two oxygen atoms.

[0068] The letter T represents a Trifunctional unit of formula RlSiO3 / 2.

[0069] Such resins are described for example in Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, John and Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), pp. 265-270, and US 2,676,182, US 3,627,851, US 3,772,247, US 5,248,739 or US 5,082,706, US 5,319,040, US 5,302,685 and US 4,935,484.

[0070] In the M, D, T units defined above, R, namely RI and R2, represents a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or even a hydroxyl group.

[0071] Finally, the letter Q signifies a tetrafunctional unit SiO4 / 2 in which the silicon atom is linked to four oxygen atoms themselves linked to the rest of the polymer.

[0072] Various silicone resins with different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or units), the nature and number of the radical R, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and the size of the pendant chains.

[0073] As silicone resins which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, it is possible to use, for example, silicone resins of the MQ type, of the T type or of the MQT type. MQ Resins

[0074] As an example of silicone resins of MQ type, mention may be made of alkylsiloxy-silicates of formula [(Rl)3SiOi / 2]x(SiO4 / 2)y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group RI represents a radical as defined previously, and preferably is an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group.

[0075] As an example of solid silicone resins of the MQ type of trimethylsiloxy-silicate type, we can cite those marketed under the reference SR1000® by the company General Electric, under the reference TMS 803® by the company Wacker, under the name KF-7312®J by the company Shin-Etsu, DC 749®, DC 593® by the company Dow Corning.

[0076] As silicone resins comprising MQ siloxysilicate units, mention may also be made of phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate SILSHINE 151® marketed by the company General Electric). The preparation of such resins is described in particular in US patent 5,817,302. Resins T

[0077] As an example of T-type silicone resins, mention may be made of polysilsesquioxanes of formula (RSiO3 / 2)x (T units) in which x is greater than 100 and such that the R group is an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said polysilsesquioxanes being able to further comprise Si-OH terminal groups.

[0078] Preferably, polymethylsilsesquioxane resins can be used in which R represents a methyl group, such as those marketed: - by the company Wacker under the reference RESIN MK® such as BELSIL PMS MK®: polymer comprising repeating units CH3SiO3 / 2 (T units), which may also comprise up to 1% by weight of (CH3)2 SiO2 / 2 units (D units) and having an average molecular weight of approximately 10,000 g / mol, or - by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L® which are composed of T units of formula CH3SiO3 / 2 and have Si-OH (silanol) end groups, under the reference KR-242A® which comprise 98% of T units and 2% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups or under the reference KR-251® comprising 88% of T units and 12% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups. MQT resins

[0079] As a resin comprising MQT units, those cited in document US 5,110,890 are known in particular.

[0080] A preferred form of MQT type resins are MQT-propyl resins (also called MQTPr). Such resins which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are in particular those described and prepared in application WO 2005 / 075542.

[0081] The MQ-T-propyl resin preferably comprises the units: (i) (Rl3SiO1 / 2)a ; (ii) (R22SiO2 / 2)b; (iii) (R3SiO3 / 2)c ; and (iv) (SiO4 / 2)d • with : - RI, R2 and R3 independently representing a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or even a hydroxyl group and preferably an alkyl radical having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a phenyl group, - a being between 0.05 and 0.5,- b being between zero and 0.3,- c being greater than zero, - d being between 0.05 and 0.6, -a + b + c + d= 1, and a, b, c and d being mole fractions, provided that more than 40 mol% of the R3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.

[0082] Preferably, the siloxane resin comprises the units: (i) ((Rl)3SiO1 / 2)a ; (iii) (R3SiO3 / 2)c ; and (iv) (SiO4 / 2)d. with : - RI and R3 independently representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 atoms of carbon, RI preferably being a methyl group and R3 preferably being a propyl group, - a being between 0.05 and 0.5, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4, - c being greater than zero, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4, - d being between 0.05 and 0.6, preferably between 0.2 and 0.6, or between 0.2 and 0.55, -a + b + c + d= leta, b, cetd being molar fractions, provided that more than 40 mol% of the R3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.

[0083] The siloxane resins which can be used according to the invention can be obtained by a process comprising the reaction of: A) an MQ resin comprising at least 80 mol% of ((R 1)3 SiOl / 2 )a and (SiO4 / 2)d units; with - RI representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, - a and d being greater than zero, - the a / d ratio being between 0.5 and 1.5; and of: B) a propyl resin T comprising at least 80 mol% of (R3SiO3 / 2)c units; with - R3 representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, - c being greater than zero, provided that at least 40 mol% of the R3 groups are propyl groups, where the mass ratio A / B is between 95:5 and 15:85, preferably the mass ratio A / B is 30:70.

[0084] Advantageously, the mass ratio A / B is between 95:5 and 15:85. Preferably, the ratio A / B is less than or equal to 70:30. These preferred ratios have proven to allow comfortable deposits due to the absence of percolation of the rigid particles of MQ resin into the deposit.

[0085] Thus, preferably, the silicone resin is chosen from MQ type resins, in particular chosen from (i) alkylsiloxysilicates, which may be trimethylsiloxysilicates, of formula [(R 1 )3 SiOi / 2]x(SiO4 / 2)y, in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group RI represents a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group, and preferably is an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group, and (ii) phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate resin.

[0086] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises, as hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate resin such as those marketed under the reference SILSOFT 74® by the company MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS, SR1000® by the company General Electric, under the reference TMS 803® by the company Wacker, under the name KF-7312®J by the company Shin-Etsu, DC 749®, DC 593® by the company Dow Corning. Silsesquioxane resins

[0087] Among the silsesquioxane resins which can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of alkyl silsesquioxane resins which are homopolymers and / or copolymers of silsesquioxane having a siloxane average unit of formula RI nSiO(4_n) / 2, where each RI independently denotes a hydrogen atom or a C1-CIO alkyl group where more than 80 mol% of the RI radicals represent a C3-CIO alkyl group, n is a number from 1.0 to 1.4, and more particularly, a silsesquioxane copolymer will be used in which more than 60 mol% comprises RISiO 3 / 2 units in which RI has the definition indicated above.

[0088] Preferably, the silsesquioxane resin is chosen such that RI is a C1-C10 alkyl group, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, and more particularly a propyl group. More particularly, a polypropylsilsesquioxane or T-propyl silsesquioxane resin (INCI name: POLYPROPYLSIL-SESQUIOXANE (and) ISODODECANE such as the product sold under the trade name DOW CORNING® 670 FLUID by the company Dow-Coming will be used. II. Blocked ethylenic copolymers

[0089] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer may be a block ethylenic copolymer, containing at least one first block having a glass transition temperature (Tg) greater than or equal to 40°C and being derived in whole or in part from one or more first monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature greater than or equal to 40°C, and at least one second block having a glass transition temperature less than or equal to 20°C and being derived in whole or in part from one or more second monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature less than or equal to 20°C,said first sequence and said second sequence being linked together by a statistical intermediate segment comprising at least one of said first monomers constituting the first sequence and at least one of said second monomers constituting the second sequence, and said block copolymer having a polydispersity index I greater than 2.,

[0090] Polymers of this type suitable for the invention are described in document EP1411069.

[0091] As an example of such polymers, mention may be made more particularly of MEXOMERE PAS® (Acrylic Acid / Isobutyl Acrylate / Isobornyl Acrylate Copolymer diluted to 50% in isododecane) marketed by the company CHIMEX.

[0092] The block ethylenic copolymer may in particular be a diblock, triblock, multiblock, radial, star copolymer, or mixtures thereof as described in application US-A-2002 / 005562 and in patent US-A-5,221,534.

[0093] The copolymer may have at least one block whose glass transition temperature is preferably less than 20°C, preferably less than or equal to 0°C, preferably less than or equal to -20°C, more preferably less than or equal to -40°C. The glass transition temperature of said block may be between -150°C and 20°C, in particular between -100°C and 0°C. The copolymer is amorphous and formed by polymerization of an olefin. The olefin may in particular be an elastomeric ethylenically unsaturated monomer.

[0094] As an example of an olefin, mention may be made of ethylenic carbide monomers, having in particular one or two ethylenic unsaturations, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene, or pentadiene.

[0095] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefin.

[0096] Particularly preferred are block copolymers comprising at least one styrene block and at least one block comprising units chosen from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butylene, isoprene or one of their mixtures.

[0097] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is hydrogenated to reduce the residual ethylenic unsaturations after the polymerization of the monomers.

[0098] In particular, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and C3-C4 ethylene / alkylene blocks.

[0099] As diblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, mention may be made of styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butylene copolymers. Diblock polymers are notably sold under the name KRATON® G1701E by the company Kraton Polymers.

[0100] As triblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, mention may be made of styrene-ethylene / propylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-isoprene-styrene copolymers, styrene-butadiene-styrene copolymers. Triblock polymers are sold in particular under the names KRATON® G1650, KRATON® G1652, KRATON® DI 101, KRATON® DI 102, KRATON® DI 160 by the company Kraton Polymers.

[0101] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is a styrene-ethylene / butylene-styrene triblock copolymer.

[0102] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, it is possible in particular to use a mixture of a styrene-butylene / ethylene-styrene triblock copolymer and a styrene-ethylene / butylene diblock copolymer, in particular those sold under the name KRATON® G1657M by the company Kraton Polymers.

[0103] It is also possible to use a mixture of hydrogenated styrene-butylene / ethylene-styrene triblock copolymer and hydrogenated ethylene-propylene-styrene star polymer, such a mixture being in particular in isododecane. Such mixtures are for example sold by the company PENRECO under the trade names VERSAGEL® M5960 and VERSAGEL® M5670.

[0104] III, Vinyl polymer comprising at least one unit derived from carbosiloxane dendrimer

[0105] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer may also be chosen from vinyl polymers comprising at least one unit derived from carbosiloxane dendrimer.

[0106] The vinyl polymer(s) in particular have a backbone and at least one side chain, which comprises a carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived unit having a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure.

[0107] In particular, vinyl polymers comprising at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer unit may be used as described in applications WO03 / 045337 and EP963751 from Dow Corning.

[0108] The term carbosiloxane dendrimer structure in the context of the present invention represents a molecular structure having branched groups having high molecular weights, said structure having high regularity in the radial direction starting from the bond to the backbone. Such carbosiloxane dendrimer structures are described as a highly branched siloxane-silylalkylene copolymer in Japanese patent application Kokai Laid-Open No. 9-171 154.

[0109] A vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived unit has a side molecular chain containing a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure, and may be derived from the polymerization: - from 0 to 99.9 parts by weight of a vinyl monomer; and - from 100 to 0.1 parts by weight of a carbosiloxane dendrimer containing an organic group polymerizable using radicals, represented by the general formula: :

[0110] [Chem.l] in which Y represents an organic group polymerizable using radicals, R1 represents an aryl group or an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 atoms of carbon, and X' represents a silylalkyl group which, when i = 1, is represented by the following formula: [Chem 2] (gold 3 ); r r' X' =----------Q----gj R' wherein R1 is as defined above, R2 represents an alkylene group having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, R3 represents an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, Xi+1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, an aryl group, or the silylalkyl group defined above with i = i + 1; i is an integer from 1 to 10 which represents the generation of said silylalkyl group, and ai is an integer from 0 to 3; wherein said radical-polymerizable organic group contained in component (A) is selected from: organic groups containing a methacrylic group or an acrylic group and which are represented by the following formulas: [Chem 3] R 4 et CH2 = C--C--O---R 5 — [Chem 4] ^4 F ch2-cc - nh—r 5 — in which R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, R5 represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and organic groups containing a styryl group and which are represented by the following formula: [Chem 5] [YES]

[0112]

[0113] in which R6 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, R7 represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, R8 represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, b is an integer from 0 to 4, and c is 0 or 1, such that if c is 0, (R8)c- represents a bond. The vinyl-type monomer which is component (A) in the vinyl polymer is a vinyl-type monomer which contains a vinyl group polymerizable with the aid of radicals. There are no particular limitations regarding such a monomer. The following are examples of this vinyl-type monomer: methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-propyl methacrylate, isopropyl methacrylate, or a lower alkyl methacrylate analog; glycidyl methacrylate; butyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, tert-butyl acrylate, tert-butyl methacrylate, n-hexyl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, octyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl acrylate, stearyl methacrylate, or a higher methacrylate analog; vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, or a lower fatty acid ester thereof; vinyl caproate, vinyl 2-ethylhexoate, vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate, or a higher fatty acid ester thereof;styrene, vinyl toluene, benzyl methacrylate, phenoxyethyl methacrylate, vinyl pyrrolidone, or analogous aromatic vinyl monomers; methacrylamide, N-methylolmethacrylamide, N-methoxymethylmethacrylamide, isobutoxymethoxymethacrylamide, N,N-dimethylmethacrylamide, or analogous vinyl monomers that contain amide groups; hydroxyethyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl alcohol methacrylate, or analogous vinyl monomers that contain hydroxyl groups; acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, or analogous vinyl monomers that contain a carboxylic acid group;tetrahydrofurfuryl methacrylate, butoxyethyl methacrylate, ethoxydiethylene glycol methacrylate, polyethylene glycol methacrylate, polypropylene glycol monomethacrylate, hydroxybutyl vinyl ether, cetyl vinyl ether, 2-ethylhexyl ether and; vinyl, or an analogous vinyl-type monomer with ether linkages; methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, polydimethylsiloxane having a methacrylic group on one of its molecular ends, polydimethylsiloxane having a styryl group on one of its molecular ends, or an analogous silicone compound having unsaturated groups; butadiene; vinyl chloride; vinylidene chloride; methacrylonitrile; dibutyl fumarate; anhydrous maleic acid; anhydrous succinic acid; methacryl glycidyl ether; an organic salt of an amine, an ammonium salt, and an alkali metal salt of methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, or fumaric acid; an unsaturated monomer polymerizable using radicals having a sulfonic acid group such as a styrene sulfonic acid group;a quaternary ammonium salt derived from methacrylic acid such as 2-hydroxy-3-methacryloxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and a methacrylic acid ester of an alcohol having a tertiary amine group such as an ester of methacrylic acid and diethylamine. ;

[0114] Multifunctional vinyl type monomers can also be used.

[0115] The following are examples of such compounds: trimethylolpropane trimethacrylate, pentaerythritol trimethacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 1,4-butanediol dimethacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate, neopentyl glycol dimethacrylate, trimethylolpropanetrioxyethylmethacrylate, tris-(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate dimethacrylate, tris-(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate trimethacrylate, styryl-capped polydimethylsiloxane having divinylbenzene groups on both ends, or analogous silicone compounds having unsaturated groups.

[0116] To facilitate the preparation of the mixture of the raw material of cosmetic products, the number average molecular weight of the vinyl polymer which contains a carbosiloxane dendrimer, can be chosen in the range between 3000 to 2000000 g / mol, preferably between 5000 and 800000 g / mol. It may be a liquid, a gum, a paste, a solid, a powder, or any other form. Preferred forms are solutions formed by diluting in solvents such as a silicone oil or an organic oil, a dispersion, or a powder.

[0117] A vinyl polymer contained in the dispersion or solution may have a concentration in a range of 0.1 to 95% by weight, preferably 5 to 70% by weight. However, for ease of handling and mixture preparation, the range should preferably be 10 to 60% by weight.

[0118] According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer suitable for the invention may be one of the polymers described in the examples of application EP0963751.

[0119]

[0120] According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dendrimer can be obtained from the polymerization: - from 0.1 to 99 parts by weight of one or more acrylate or methacrylate monomer(s); and - from 100 to 0.1 parts by weight of an acrylate or methacrylate monomer of a tri[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer. According to one embodiment, a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived unit may comprise a tri[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived unit corresponding to one of the formulas: [Chem 6] OR [Chem 7] CH2-CH-Ç-~O-c3HrSi- O-StC2HrSr(o~^~CH3l ' O 1 CHS \ Œs / 3 3

[0121]

[0122]

[0123]

[0124]

[0125]

[0126] According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived unit used in the invention comprises at least one butyl acrylate monomer. According to one embodiment, a vinyl polymer may further comprise at least one fluorinated organic group. A fluorinated vinyl polymer may be one of the polymers described in the examples of application WO 03 / 045337. According to a preferred embodiment, a grafted vinyl polymer within the meaning of the present invention may be carried in an oil or a mixture of oil(s), preferably volatile oil(s) in particular, chosen from silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils and their mixtures. According to a particular embodiment, a silicone oil suitable for the invention may be cyclopentasiloxane. According to another particular embodiment, a hydrocarbon oil suitable for the invention may be isododecane. The vinyl polymers grafted with at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived unit which may be particularly suitable for the present invention are: polymers sold under the names TIB 4-100®, TIB 4-101®, TIB 4-120®, TIB 4-130®, TIB 4-200®, FA 4002 ID® (TIB 4-202®), TIB 4-220®, FA 4001 CM® (TIB 4-230®) by Dow Corning. Preferably, polymers sold under the names FA 4002 ID® (TIB 4-202®), and FA 4001 CM® (TIB 4-230®) by Dow Corning will be used.

[0127] Preferably, the vinyl polymer grafted with at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived unit usable in a composition of the invention is an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer with the INCI name: ACRYLATES / POLYTRIMETHYL SILOXYMETHACRYLATE COPOLYMER, in particular that marketed in isododecane under the name DOW CORNING FA 4002 ID® silicone acrylate by the company Dow Corning. IV. Silicone acrylate copolymers

[0128] According to a particular embodiment, a composition used according to the invention may comprise, as hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one copolymer comprising carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups.

[0129] By "copolymer comprising carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups" is meant in the present application, a copolymer obtained from (a) one or more carboxylic monomers (acid or ester), and (b) one or more polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) chains.

[0130] In the present application, the term "carboxylic monomer" means both carboxylic acid monomers and carboxylic acid ester monomers. Thus, the monomer (a) may be chosen, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, their esters and mixtures of these monomers.

[0131] As esters, the following monomers may be mentioned: acrylate, methacrylate, maleate, fumarate, itaconoate and / or crotonoate. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the monomers in the form of esters are more particularly chosen from linear or branched alkyl acrylates and methacrylates, preferably C1-C24 and better still C1-C22, the alkyl radical being preferentially chosen from methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl, ethyl-2-hexyl radicals, and mixtures thereof.

[0132] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the copolymer comprises as carboxylate groups, at least one group chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl, ethyl-2-hexyl acrylates or methacrylates, and mixtures thereof.

[0133] In the present application, the term "polydimethylsiloxanes" (also called organopolysiloxanes or, in abbreviation, PDMS), in accordance with general acceptance, is intended to denote any organosilicon polymer or oligomer with a linear structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond.=3j_Q_gi=.), comprising methyl radicals directly linked via a carbon atom on said silicon atoms. The PDMS chains which can be used to obtain the copolymer used according to the invention comprise at least one polymerizable radical group, preferably located on at least one of the ends of the chain, that is to say that the PDMS can have for example a polymerizable radical group on both ends of the chain or have a polymerizable radical group on one end of the chain and a trimethylsilyl terminal group on the other end of the chain. The polymerizable radical group can be in particular an acrylic or methacrylic group, in particular a group CH2 = CRI- CO - O-R2, where RI represents a hydrogen or a methyl group, and R2 represents -CH2-, -(CH2)n- with n = 3, 5, 8 or 10, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2-; -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2-, -ch2-ch2-o-ch2, -ch2-o-ch2-ch2-ch2-,

[0134] The copolymers used in the composition of the invention are generally obtained according to the usual polymerization and grafting methods, for example by radical polymerization (A) of a PDMS comprising at least one polymerizable radical group (for example on one of the ends of the chain or on both) and (B) of at least one carboxylic monomer, as described for example in documents US-A-5,061,481 and US-A-5,219,560.

[0135] The copolymers obtained generally have a molecular weight ranging from approximately 3,000 g / mol to 200,000 g / mol and preferably from approximately 5,000 g / mol to 100,000 g / mol.

[0136] The copolymer used in the composition of the invention may be present as such or in dispersed form in a solvent such as lower alcohols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as isopropyl alcohol, or oils such as volatile silicone oils (for example cyclopentasiloxane).

[0137] As copolymers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of copolymers of acrylic acid and stearyl acrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of acrylic acid and stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts. In particular, as copolymers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of the copolymers marketed by the company SHIN-ETSU under the names KP-561® (CTFA name: ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE), KP- 541® where the copolymer is dispersed at 60% by weight in isopropyl alcohol (CTFA name: ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE AND ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL), KP-545® where the copolymer is dispersed at 30% in cyclopentasiloxane (CTFA name: ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE AND CYCLOPENTASILOXANE).

[0138] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, KP561® is preferably used; this copolymer is not dispersed in a solvent, but is in waxy form, its melting point being approximately 30°C.

[0139] Mention may also be made of the polydimethylsiloxane grafted acrylic acid copolymer dissolved in isododecane marketed by the company Shin Etsu under the name KP-550®.

[0140] According to a particularly preferred form, a composition according to the invention comprises, as hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate resin such as those marketed under the reference SR1000® by the company General Electric, under the reference TMS 803® by the company Wacker, under the name “KF-7312®J” by the company Shin-Etsu, “DC 749®”, “DC 593®” by the company Dow Corning.

[0141] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises, as hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate resin such as those marketed under the reference SR1000® by the company General Electric, under the reference TMS 803® by the company Wacker, under the name “KF-7312®J” by Shin-Etsu Company, “DC 749®”, “DC 593®” by Dow Corning Company.

[0142] Linear Dolvdiméthvlméthvlsiloxane oxvalkvléné emulsifying surfactant

[0143] The composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion in accordance with the invention comprises at least one linear oxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane of HLB < 8, preferably linear oxypropylenated and / or oxyethylenated, in particular corresponding to the following formula (I): [Chem 8] CH, CH, CH, CH3 R.—SiO---fs i Ô1-----fS ÎÔ}----Si---R, ! IU Ja g I 3 gh3 ch3 r2 ch, (I) in which Rh R2, R3, independently of each other, represent a C1-C6 alkyl radical or a -(CH2)x-(OCH2CH2)y-(OCH2CH2CH2)z-OR4 radical, at least one RB radical R2 or R3 not being an alkyl radical; R4 being a hydrogen, a C1-C3 alkyl radical or a C2-C4 acyl radical; A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200; B is an integer from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not equal to zero at the same time; x is an integer ranging from 0 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30; z is an integer ranging from 0 to 30.

[0144] According to a particular embodiment, the linear oxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane surfactant of HLB < 8 is chosen from those of formula (I) where Ri and R3 denote methyl, R2 is -(CH2)x-(OCH2CH2)y-(OCH2CH2CH2)z-OR4ct R4 is hydrogen.

[0145] More particularly, among these compounds, the linear oxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane surfactant of HLB < 8 is chosen from those of formula (I) where x is equal to 0.

[0146] More particularly, the linear oxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane surfactant of HLB < 8 is chosen from those of formula (I) where R1 and R3 denote methyl, R2 is -(CH2)x-(OCH2CH2)y-(OCH2CH2CH2)z-OR4> R4 is hydrogen and z is equal to 0.

[0147] According to a particular embodiment, the linear oxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane surfactant of HLB < 8 is chosen from those of formula (I) where R! and R3 denote -(CH2)x-(OCH2CH2)y-(OCH2CH2CH2)z-OR4, R2 is methyl and R4 is hydrogen.

[0148] As examples of compounds of formula (I), the following emulsifying surfactants with INCI names may be mentioned: - PEG / PPG-8 / 8 DIMETHICONE such as products sold under the trade names SILUBE J208-4I®, SILUBE J208-6I®, SILUBE J208-8I® and SILSURF J-1013-V-CG® by Siltech LLC; ANDISIL SP 1818® by AB Specialty Silicones; JEESILC DMC 19® by Jeen International Corporation; XIAMETER OFX-0190 FLUID® by Dow Chemical Company; - the mixture BIS-PEG / PPG-14 / 14 DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE sold under the trade name AB IL EM 97 S® by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT; - the mixture of CYCLOPENTASILOXANE and PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE such as the products sold under the trade names DOWSIL 5225C FORMULATION AID® by Dow Chemical Company); EMUSIL WO-5115® by Innospec Performance Chemicals Company; GRANSURF 10C® by Grant Industries, Inc.; JEESILC DMC522® by Jeen International Corporation; SILSURF 400R® by Siltech LLC; - the mixture of CYCLOTETRASILOXANE and CYCLOPENTASILOXANE and PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE such as the commercial products sold under the name DOWSIL 3225C FORMULATION AID® by Dow Chemical; EMULSIL WO-3115® by Innospec Performance Chemicals; JEESILC DMC252® and JEESILC DMC322® by Jeen International Corporation; - the mixture DIMETHICONE and PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE such as the commercial products DOWSIL ES-5226 DM FORMULATION AID® and DOWSIL ES-5227 DM FORMULATIONS AID® from Dow Chemical; GRANSURF 50C® and GRANSURF 50C-HM® from Grant Industries, Inc. and X-22-6711D from SHIN ETSU. - the mixture PEG / PPG-19 / 19 Dimethicone and C13-C16 ISOPARAFFIN and C10-C13 ISOPARAFFIN such as the commercial product DOW CORNING® BY 25-337 from Dow Chemical; - PEG-3 DIMETHICONE such as the commercial product KF-6015® from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.; - PEG-10 DIMETHICONE such as commercial products KF-6017® from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.; SERASOL SC 86® and SERASOL SC 86A® from KCC Corporation); - their mixtures.

[0149] Preferably, a mixture comprising 1) BIS-PEG / PPG-14 / 14 DL METHICONE and dimethicone and 2) PEG-10 DIMETHICONE will be used.

[0150] The linear oxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane(s) in accordance with the invention are preferably present in the composition of the invention at concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.5 to 7% by weight and even more preferably from 1 to 4% relative to the total weight of the composition. Hyaluronic acid

[0151] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives.

[0152] In the context of the present invention, the term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” covers in particular the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of the following formula:

[0153] [Chem.9]

[0154] It is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid comprising a dimer di- saccharide, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl glucosamine.

[0155] The term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" also includes, within the scope of the present invention, the linear polymer comprising the polymeric unit described above, in a sequence by alternating glycosidic bonds [3(1,4) and [3(1,3), having a molecular weight (MW) that can vary between 380 and 13,000,000 daltons. This molecular weight depends largely on the source of hyaluronic acid and / or the preparation methods.

[0156] The term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” also includes, within the scope of the present invention, the salts of hyaluronic acid and in particular the alkaline salts such as the sodium salt and the potassium salt.

[0157] In its natural state, hyaluronic acid is present in pericellular gels, in the basic substance of connective tissues of vertebrate organs such as the dermis and epithelial tissues and in particular in the epidermis, in joint synovial fluid, in the vitreous humor, in the human umbilical cord and in the cristagalli apophysis.

[0158] Thus, the term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” includes all the fractions or subunits of hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight in particular included in the molecular weight range recalled above.

[0159] In the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use hyaluronic acid fractions which do not exhibit inflammatory activity.

[0160] As an illustration of the different fractions of hyaluronic acid, reference may be made to the document “Hyaluronan fragments: an information-rich System”, R.Stern et al, European Journal of Cell Biology 58 (2006) 699-715, which reviews the listed biological activities of hyaluronic acid as a function of its molecular weight.

[0161] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hyaluronic acid fractions suitable for the application targeted by the present invention have a molecular weight (MW) ranging from 400,000 to 5,000,000 Daltons, or even from 50,000 to 5,000,000 Daltons, in particular from 100,000 to 5,000,000 Daltons, notably from 400,000 to 5,000,000 Daltons. We speak of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid when it is greater than 400,000 Daltons.

[0162] Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions which may also be adapted to the application targeted by the present invention have a molecular weight ranging from 50,000 to 400,000 Daltons. In this case, we speak of intermediate molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0163] Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions that can be adapted to the application targeted by the present invention have a molecular weight of less than 50,000 Daltons. In this case, we speak of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0164] Finally, the term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" also includes esters of hyaluronic acid, in particular those in which all or part of the carboxylic groups of the acid functions are esterified with alcohols or oxyethylenated alkyls, comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular with a degree of substitution at the level of the D-glucuronic acid of the hyaluronic acid varying from 0.5 to 50%.

[0165] Mention may in particular be made of methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. Such esters have in particular been described in D. Campoccia et al. “Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification”, Biomaterials 19 (1998) 2101-2127.

[0166] The molecular weights indicated above are also valid for hyaluronic acid esters.

[0167] Hyaluronic acid can in particular be supplied by the company HYACTIVE under the trade name CPN® (PM: 10 to 150 kDaltons), by the company SOLIANCE under the trade name CRISTALHYAL® (PM: 1.1.106 Daltons) and under RENOVHYAL LO® (PM: 20000 <pm< 50000 daltons) ; par la société bioland sous le nom nutra ha® (pm : 820000 daltons), af® 69000 da) oligo 6100 ou encore vam farmacos metica® D FACTOR ® (PM: 380 Da).

[0168] In one embodiment, the hyaluronic acid is present in the form of a mixture of a low molecular weight hyaluronic acid of less than 50,000 Daltons and a high molecular weight hyaluronic acid of greater than 50,000 Daltons, more particularly a mixture comprising a high molecular weight hyaluronic acid of 1.1.106 Daltons and a low molecular weight hyaluronic acid of between 20,000 and 50,000 Daltons such as the mixture of the commercial products CRISTALHYAL® (PM: 1.1.106 Daltons) and RENOVHYAL LO® (PM: 20000 <pm< 50000 daltons) vendus par la société soliance.

[0169] In one embodiment, the hyaluronic acid is present in the form of spheres. In particular, such spheres are marketed by the company BASF under the name HYALURONIC ACID SPHERE®. It is a mixture of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights, namely respectively having a molecular weight of 1.5.106 Da and a molecular weight of between 400,000 and 600,000 Daltons.

[0170] Hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives is present in the composition according to the present invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and more particularly between 0.5 and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Vitamin B3 and its derivatives

[0171] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one vitamin B3 and / or one of its derivatives.

[0172] The term “vitamin B3” means any molecule having the general formula: ,R in which R is -CONH2 (ie, niacinamide, isoniacinamide), -COOH (ie: ni-cotinic acid) or -CH2OH (ie: nicotinyl alcohol) as well as its organic or inorganic acid derivatives and salts or its inorganic or organic base salts such as those mentioned above.

[0173] Examples of vitamin B3 derivatives include: - nicotinic acid esters such as those with the following INCI names: Niacinamide Ascorbate Niacinamide Glycolate, Niacinamide Hydroxybenzoate, Niacinamide Hy-droxycitrate, Niacinamide Lactate, Niacinamide Malate, Niacinamide Mandalate, Niacinamide Salicylate, Niacinamide Thioctate supplied by Bioderma Tech. Co LTD; - quaternary ammonium salts such as Methyl Niacinamide Chloride (INCI name) such as the commercial product MNA Chloride® from Pharmena; - reaction products of niacinamide with polypeptides such as those from yeast: INCI name Niacinamide / Yeast Polypeptide such as the commercial product sold under the trade name VITAZYME B3® by Arch Personal Care Products, LP / Lonza Personal Care.

[0174] Niacinamide will be used more particularly as the commercial products sold under the following names: - Niacinamide PC® (DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.) - OriStar NA® (Orient Stars LLC) - RonaCare Nicotinamide® (Merck KGaA / EMD Chemicals) - RonaCare Nicotinamide ® (EMD Chemicals).

[0175] Vitamin B3 and / or one of its derivatives are preferably present in active ingredient concentrations of less than 5.0% by weight and more preferably ranging from 1 to 5% by weight, better still from 2 to 4.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Xanthine base

[0176] The compositions according to the invention comprise at least one xanthic base and / or a plant extract containing it.

[0177] Among the xanthic bases that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of: caffeine, theophylline, theobromine, acefylline, xanthinol nicotinate, diniprophylline, diprophylline, etamiphylline and its derivatives, etophylline, proxyphylline, pento-phylline, propentophylline, pyridophylline and bamiphylline, without this list being limiting.

[0178] It is particularly preferred to use caffeine, theophylline, theobromine and acefylline, and more specifically caffeine.

[0179] Examples of plant extracts containing xanthic bases include, but are not limited to, extracts of tea, coffee, guarana, mate and cola.

[0180] Caffeine such as the commercial products CAFFEINE ANHYDRE NATURELLE POUDRE® from the company TESTA, CAFFEINE ANHYDROUS® from the company CSPC INNOVATION PHARMACEUTICAL, CAFFEINE POWDER® from the company BASF will be used in particular.

[0181] The xanthic base(s) present are preferably present in active ingredient concentrations of less than 2% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 0.1 to 1% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Powdered coloring matter

[0182] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition additionally comprises at least one pulverulent coloring material.

[0183] The powdery coloring materials can be chosen from coloring pigments, pearlescent agents, optical effect pigments and their mixtures.

[0184] The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit.

[0185] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0186] By "mineral pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti 2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0187] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.

[0188] According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and which can range up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.

[0189] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer of the MasterSizer 3000® type from Malvem, allowing to understand the particle size distribution of all particles over a wide range from 0.01 pm to 1000 pm. The data are processed on the basis of the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multi-micron, it allows the determination of an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0190] D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles has.

[0191] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxides, titanium dioxides, and mixtures thereof. By way of example, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxides and iron oxides, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example marketed under the reference NAI® by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.

[0192] As mineral pigments which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of nacres.

[0193] By “mother-of-pearl” is meant colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which present a color effect by optical interference.

[0194] The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials.

[0195] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0196] Examples of mother-of-pearls that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

[0197] The mother-of-pearls can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection.

[0198] Among the pigments that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional tint effect, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of the effect of variability of the color with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.

[0199] For example, this material can be chosen from particles with a metallic sheen, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brightening agents, as well as fibers, in particular interference fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined in such a way as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect in accordance with the invention.

[0200] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

[0201] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

[0202] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. To the extent that they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they exhibit a predominant affinity for an oily phase which can then carry them.

[0203] The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0204] For the purposes of the invention, “coating” a pigment according to the invention generally designates the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

[0205] The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.

[0206] The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

[0207] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of a coating of the pigments.

[0208] The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular 0.5% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the coated pigment.

[0209] The coating can be carried out for example by adsorption of a liquid surfactant on the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and said surfactant, possibly hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.

[0210] The coating can be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is notably described in US patent 4,578,266.

[0211] The chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments.

[0212] When the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0213] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-silicone surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0214] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

[0215] According to a particular embodiment, the coloring matter is an organic, synthetic, natural or naturally occurring pigment.

[0216] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type compounds, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0217] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives,phenolics as described in patent FR 2 679 771.,

[0218] The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core.

[0219] The pigment may also be a lake. By lake is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0220] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0221] Among the organic dyes, we can cite cochineal carmine. Other products known under the following names include: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0222] Examples of lacquers include the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15850:1).

[0223] Preferably, the pulverulent coloring material(s) is (are) present, preferably, in the composition in a content ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0224] Organopolysiloxane elastomer carried in a non-volatile oil.

[0225] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer (also called silicone elastomer) carried in at least one silicone or hydrocarbon oil as described previously.

[0226] For the purposes of the invention, the term "carried" means that the elastomer is provided in the composition in a pre-dispersed form in at least one silicone or hydrocarbon oil. More particularly, the elastomer is in the form of a homogeneous mixture of elastomer particles dispersed in at least one silicone or hydrocarbon oil, stable for at least 24 hours at 20°C.

[0227] Preferably, this elastomer is in the form of a gel in at least one silicone or hydrocarbon oil.

[0228] By "organopolysiloxane elastomer" or "silicone elastomer" is meant a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane, having viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is capable of returning to its original shape following stretching.

[0229] It is more particularly a crosslinked silicone elastomer. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles can be spherical or non-spherical particles.

[0230] But preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer used in the composition according to the invention is carried in at least one silicone oil chosen in particular among non-phenylated silicone oils, phenylated silicone oils with or without a dimethicone fragment, or mixtures thereof.

[0231] More advantageously, the silicone oil(s) are chosen from non-phenylated silicone oils, in particular from oils bearing the INCI name “dimethicone”.

[0232] The elastomer present in the composition according to the invention is chosen from non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomers

[0233] The term “non-emulsifying” defines organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing a hydrophilic chain, and in particular not containing polyoxyalkylene units (in particular polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene), nor polyglyceryl units.

[0234] The organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by addition crosslinking reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and diorganopolysiloxane having ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by condensation crosslinking dehydrogenation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl terminations and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of an organotin; or by condensation crosslinking reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl terminations and a hydrolyzable organopolysiloxane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, in particular in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam.

[0235] Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to the silicon, in particular in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst. In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy terminations, in the presence of platinum catalyst.

[0236] Compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane and crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).

[0237] Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to separate silicon atoms in each molecule. Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, in particular a linear chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.

[0238] Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50000 106 mm2 / s (centistokes), in particular to be well miscible with compound (B).

[0239] The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

[0240] Compound (A) can thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes with trimethylsiloxy endings, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogeno-siloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy endings, and cyclic dimethylsiloxa-nemethylhydrogeno-siloxane copolymers.

[0241] Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located in any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule.

[0242] The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched chain, straight chain, cyclic or network structure but the straight chain structure is preferred. The compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from liquid to gum state.

[0243] Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C. In addition to the aforementioned alkenyl groups, other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.The organopolysiloxanes (B) may be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethyl-siloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane methylvinyl-siloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy terminations, methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, and copolymers dimethylsiloxane-methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations. In par- . In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reacting dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy terminations, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

[0244] According to another variant, the compound (B) may be an unsaturated hydrocarbon compound, having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located in any position of the molecule but are preferably located at the ends. By way of example, mention may be made of hexadiene, and in particular 1,5-hexadiene. Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of the compound (A) is at least 5.

[0245] It is advantageous that the compound (A) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in the compound (A) and the total amount of all ethylenically unsaturated groups in the compound (B) is in the range of 1.5 / 1 to 20 / 1.

[0246] Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is notably chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, black platinum, and supported platinum.

[0247] The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).

[0248] As non-emulsifying elastomers, it is possible, for example, to use those sold under the names “DC 9040®”, “DC 9041®”, “DC 9509®”, “DC 9505®” by the company Dow Corning.

[0249] It is also possible to use those sold under the names “KSG-6®”, “KSG15®”, “KSG-16®”, “KSG-18”, “KSG-41®”, “KSG-42®”, “KSG-43®”, “KSG-44®”, “X-25-7034H®” by the company Shin Etsu; GRANSIL SR 5CYC gel®, GRANSIL SR DMF 10 GEL®, GRANSIL SR DC556 GEL® from the company Gransil RPS of Grant Industries; 1229-02-167®, 1229-02-168® and “SFE 839®”, GRANSIL DMG-6® (INCI name: DIMETHICONE (and) POLYSILICONE-11) from the company General Electric.

[0250] According to a particularly preferred form, an organopolysiloxane elastomer carried in a dimethicone with the INCI name: DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER will be used, such as the products sold under the trade names* KSG-6®, KSG-16®, “X-25-7034H®” by the company Shin Etsu.

[0251] The composition according to the invention may comprise such an organopolysiloxane elastomer, alone or as a mixture, in an active material content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic compositions

[0252] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition as defined above.

[0253] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the aspect in which the composition is to be packaged.

[0254] The compositions according to the invention may also comprise additives commonly used in care and / or makeup products such as: - additional active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or one of its salts - sun filters; - additional coloring materials; - charges; - lipophilic thickeners; - perfumes - conservatives

[0255] - antioxidant agents,

[0256] - chelating agents,

[0257] - neutralizing agents,

[0258] - and mixtures thereof.

[0259] It is a matter of routine operation for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties thereof are not affected. Additional coloring matters

[0260] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional water-soluble or liposoluble coloring matter and preferably in an amount of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0261] For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the coloring materials considered and its adjustment clearly falls within the skills of those skilled in the art.

[0262] The additional coloring materials suitable for the invention may be liposoluble.

[0263] By "liposoluble coloring matter", within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with a fatty substance and capable of coloring.

[0264] As liposoluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of liposoluble dyes, synthetic or natural, such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes (b-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin.

[0265] The additional coloring materials suitable for the invention may be water-soluble.

[0266] For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble coloring matter" means any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of coloring.

[0267] As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin. Charges

[0268] The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler making it possible, in particular, to give them additional properties of mattness, coverage, hold and / or improved stability.

[0269] By "filler" is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they make it possible to give body or rigidity to the composition and / or softness, and uniformity to the makeup.

[0270] The fillers can be mineral or organic.

[0271] Preferably, they will be chosen from natural or naturally occurring fillers.

[0272] By "synthetic compound" is meant any compound which is neither naturally existing nor derived from a compound of natural origin.

[0273] By "compound of natural origin" is meant any compound derived from a plant and having undergone one or more chemical modifications, for example by organic synthesis reaction, without the properties of the natural compound having been modified.

[0274] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

[0275] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and, in particular, they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

[0276] Examples of mineral fillers include talcs, natural or synthetic micas such as synthetic fluorphlogopites, silica such as amorphous silica microspheres such as the commercial product sold under the name SO-LESPHERE H 51® or SUNSPHERE H 51® by the company AGC SLTECH, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles with the INCI name: SILICA SILYLATE such as the commercial product sold under the name DOWSIL VM-2270 AEROGEL® FINE PARTICLES by the company DOW CHEMICALS; kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass.

[0277] According to a particular embodiment, a mineral filler chosen from synthetic fluorphlogopites, amorphous silica microspheres, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles and mixtures thereof will be used.

[0278] Examples of organic fillers that may be mentioned are natural micronized waxes; metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; lauroyl lysine, cellulose powders such as that marketed by Daito in the CELLULOBEADS® range.

[0279] Preferably, the filler(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more particularly from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Lipophilic thickeners

[0280] Depending on the viscosity of the composition that it is desired to obtain, one or more lipophilic thickeners, i.e. soluble or dispersible in the oily phase, can be incorporated into a composition of the invention.

[0281] Preferably, the lipophilic thickeners will be chosen from natural or naturally derived gelling agents.

[0282] As lipophilic gelling agents, we can cite for example modified clays such as modified magnesium silicate (BENTONE GEL VS38® from RHEOX), hectorite modified by DISTEARYL dimethyl ammonium chloride (CTFA name: Disteardimonium Hectorite) like the product marketed under the denomination “BENTONE 38 CE®” certification by the company RHEOX.

[0283] According to a particular embodiment, said composition additionally comprises j) at least one natural or naturally occurring hydrophilic gelling agent and / or at least one natural or naturally occurring lipophilic gelling agent, and more preferably at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from modified clays, and more particularly a hectorite modified by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (INCI name: DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE) such as the product sold under the name “BENTONE 38 CE®” by the company RHEOX or the product “BENTONE 38VCG” from the company ELEMENTIS.

[0284] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition as defined above.

[0285] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the aspect in which the composition is to be packaged.

[0286] According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a skin care composition, in particular for the body or face, in particular for the face.

[0287] According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup composition for keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or face, in particular the face.

[0288] Thus, according to a sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be presented in the form of a base composition for makeup.

[0289] A composition of the invention can advantageously be presented in the form of a foundation.

[0290] According to another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup composition for the skin and in particular for the face. It may thus be an eyeshadow or a blush.

[0291] Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art. Packaging and applicators

[0292] The compositions according to the invention may be packaged in a container delimiting at least one compartment which comprises said composition, said container being closed by a closing element.

[0293] The container may be in any suitable form. It may in particular be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a pot, a case.

[0294] The closure element may be in the form of a removable stopper, a lid, a cover, in particular of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and a cap hinged to the body. It may also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closure of the container, in particular a pump, a valve, or a flap.

[0295] The container may be associated with an applicator, in particular in the form of a brush, as described for example in patent FR 2 722 380. The applicator may be in the form of a block of foam or elastomer. The applicator may be free (sponge) or integral with a rod carried by the closure element, as described for example in patent US 5,492,426. The applicator may be integral with the container, as described for example in patent FR 2 761 959.

[0296] The product may be contained directly in the container, or indirectly.

[0297] The closure element may be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closure element and the container is achieved by means other than screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, by snap-fastening, or by tightening. By "snap-fastening" is meant in particular any system involving the crossing of a bead or cord of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, then by return to the non-elastically stressed position of said portion after crossing the bead or cord.

[0298] The container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials include polypropylene or polyethylene.

[0299] The container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, in particular in the form of a tube or a tube bottle.

[0300] The container may comprise means for causing or facilitating the dispensing of the composition. For example, the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the composition to exit in response to an overpressure inside the container, which overpressure is caused by elastic (or non-elastic) crushing of the walls of the container.

[0301] The container may be equipped with a wiper arranged in the vicinity of the opening of the container. Such a wiper makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod to which it may be attached. Such a wiper is described for example in patent FR 2 792 618.

[0302] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" must be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0303] The expressions “between ... and ...” and “ranging from ... to ...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0304] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples and figures presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a percentage by mass. Example 1

[0305] Composition 1 according to the invention was produced.

[0306] [Tables 1] Phase Ingrédients Exl Al DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE (BENTONE 38 VCG® - ELEMENTIS) 0,9 PROPYLENE CARBONATE 0,3 BIS-PEG / PPG-14 / 14 DIMETHICONE (and) DL METHICONE (ABIL EM 97 S_EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT 0,8 ISOPROPYL LAUROYL SARCOSINATE (ELDEW SL-205® -AJINOMOTO) 0,75 DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE (DUB DIS® - STEARINERIES DUBOIS) 0,75 ISODODECANE 11,9 DIPENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAHY- DROXYSTEARATE / TETRAISOSTEARATE (COSMOL 168 EV® - NISSHIN OILLIO) 0,18 DIPHENYLSILOXY PHENYL TRL METHICONE (KF-56A® - SHIN ETSU) 2,9 PEG-10 DIMETHICONE (KF-6017®- SHIN ETSU) 2,45 TOCOPHEROL 0,1 DIMETHICONE 2 CST (DM-FLUID-2CS®- SHIN ETSU) qsp 100 A2 DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (X-25-7034H ® - SHIN ETSU) 2,45 A3 TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE AND ISODODECANE (75% en poids de matière active) (SILSOFT 74® - MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS) 5,0 A4 SILICA (SUNSPHERE H 51®- AGC SLTECH) 0,9 A5 SILICA SILYLATE (DOW CORNING VM-2270® AEROGEL FINE PARTICLES - DOW CORNING) 0,17 B1 NIACINAMIDE (NIACINAMIDE PC® - DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS, INC.) 2,0 CAFFEINE 0,2 SODIUM HYALURONATE RENOVHYAL LO® - SOLIANCE) 1,0 GLYCERIN 5,2 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 5,3 MAGNESIUM SULFATE 0,7 WATER 13,9 C ALCOHOL DENAT. 7,4 D SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE 2,2 BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE / CI 77163 4,0 IRON OXIDES (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77499 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 0,2 IRON OXIDES (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77491 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 0,6 IRON OXIDES (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77492 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 2,9 TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77891 (and) DISODIUM 16,5 STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE Preparation protocol for example 1

[0307] The preparation process was carried out cold in a cold water bath with ice. A pre-dispersion of DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE and DIMETHICONE 2 CST was carried out in the phase Al for more than 15 minutes in the Moritz rotor mixer at a speed of 1500 - 1800 rpm. Phase A2 was then added for more than 10 minutes in the Moritz at a speed of 1500 - 1800 rpm. Phase A3 was then added to the Moritz mixer for more than 5 minutes at a speed of 1500 - 1800 rpm. Phase A4 was then added in the mixer at the same speed for more than 10 minutes and then phase A5 for more than 5 minutes. Phase B1 was added to the mixer to form the emulsion for 15 minutes at a speed of 200 rpm, then phase C was added for more than 5 minutes at 2500 rpm. The pH of phase B1 was checked at the end (pH between 4 and 7). It was heated in a water bath at 50°C.The following active ingredients were added in order: CAFFEINE, NIACINAMIDE and SODIUM HYALURONATE. When these were well solubilized, the other ingredients of phase B1 were added, checking for the absence of grains before emulsifying. It was allowed to cool to room temperature. After making the white base, phase D was added and dispersed for 25-30 minutes under a deflocculating paddle, checking for good dispersion of the pigments. Stability tests

[0308] The example was introduced at a rate of 20g into a glass pillbox. The pillbox was placed for 10 days in a HERAEUS VOETSCH® type cycle oven. Every 24 hours, the pillbox underwent the following 4 temperature cycles of 6 hours: 6 hours at +20°C 6 hours of gradual temperature reduction from 20°C to -20°C 6 hours at -20°C 6 hours of gradual temperature rise from -20°C to +20°C

[0309] After ten days, the appearance of the example was observed (i) macroscopically to the naked eye; and ii) microscopically with the LEICA DM2500® microscope with a magnification of X 10.

[0310] Example 1 was introduced at a rate of 20g into a glass pillbox. The pillbox was placed for 2 months in a GRAM® type refrigerator at 4°C.

[0311] After 15 days, 1 month and 2 months, the appearance of the example was observed (i) macroscopically to the naked eye; and ii) microscopically with the LEICA DM2500® microscope with a magnification of X 10.

[0312] The stability results are shown in the table below.

[0313] [Tables2] Stability Exl (invention) After 10 days in a temperature cycle oven -20°C / +20°C Absence of crystals s After 15 days in a refrigerator at 4°C Absence of crystals s After 1 month in a refrigerator at 4°C Absence of crystals s After 2 months in a refrigerator at 4°C Absence of crystals s

[0314] Stability tests showed that Example 1 according to the invention was stable, homogeneous, and crystal-free. In addition, the composition of Example 1 exhibited good coverage, a homogeneous appearance, good makeup hold, good comfort on application, and good optical effects for correcting relief or color imperfections.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one continuous oily phase comprising i) at least one volatile oil and ii) at least one non-volatile oil, and b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase, where the amount of water is less than 20.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and c) at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer, and d) at least one emulsifying surfactant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated linear polydimethyl-methylsiloxanes of HLB < 8.0, and e) at least one hyaluronic acid; and f) at least one vitamin B3 and / or one of its derivatives; and g) at least one xanthic base and / or a plant extract containing it.

2. Composition according to claim 1, comprising an oily phase in a content varying from 25 to 85%, in particular from 30 to 50%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the non-volatile oil is chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, non-volatile silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

4. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the volatile hydrocarbon oil is isododecane.

5. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the volatile silicone oil is dodecamethyl pentasiloxane.

6. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the oily phase comprises a mixture of volatile oils comprising isodecane and dodecamethyl pentasiloxane.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the volatile oil or oils are present in an amount ranging from 25 to 85%, in particular from 20 to 35%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, and mixtures thereof.

9. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein non-volatile silicone oil is a phenylated silicone oil, in particular an oil with the INCI name: DIPHENYLSILOXY PHENYL TRL METHICONE. ^Claim 10] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oily phase comprises a mixture of non-volatile oils comprising isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate and DIPHENYLSILOXY PHENYL TRIMETHICONE. ^Claim 11] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-volatile oil or oils are present in an amount ranging from 25 to 85%, in particular from 25 to 35%, more particularly from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. ^Claim 12] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of water varies from 10 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.^Claim 13] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising, from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more particularly from 2 to 7% by weight of active material of hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s), relative to the total weight of the composition. ^Claim 14] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is chosen from: - silicone resins; - ethylenic block copolymers; - vinyl polymers comprising at least one unit derived from carbosiloxane dendrimer; - silicone acrylate copolymers - mixtures thereof.^Claim 15] A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is a trimethylsiloxysilicate resin ^Claim 16] A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyoxyalkylenated linear polydimethylmethylsiloxane emulsifying surfactant has the following formula (I): [Chem 8] CH CH, CH, CH3 R.—SiO :---fsiôl-----Psiôl-----Si---R. 1 i U -JA L1 JB | gh3 ch3 r2. (I) in which RB R2, R3, independently of each other, represent a C1-C6 alkyl radical or a -(CH2)X-(OCH2CH2)y-(OCH2CH2CH2)z-OR4 radical, at least one RB R2 or R3 radical not being an alkyl radical; R4 being hydrogen, a C1-C3 alkyl radical or a C2-C4 acyl radical; A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200; B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not equal to zero at the same time; x is an integer ranging from 0 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30; z is an integer ranging from 0 to 30.

17. A composition according to claim 16, wherein in the compound of formula (I), Riet R3 denotes methyl, R2 is -(CH2)x-(OCH2CH2)y-(OCH2CH2CH2)z-OR4 and R4 is hydrogen.

18.

19.

20. Composition according to claim 17, where x is 0. Composition according to claim 17, where z is 0. Composition according to claim 16, where in the compound of formula (I), R^t R3 denote -(CH2)x-(OCH2CH2)y-(OCH2CH2CH2)z -OR^, R2 is methyl and R4 is hydrogen.

21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyoxyalkylenated linear polydimethylmethylsiloxane emulsifying surfactant is chosen from those with the following INCI names: - PEG / PPG-8 / 8 DIMETHICONE; - the mixture BIS-PEG / PPG-14 / 14 DIMETHICONE and DL METHICONE; - the mixture CYCLOPENTASILOXANE and PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DL METHICONE; - the mixture CYCLOTETRASILOXANE and CYCLOPENTASILOXANE and PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE; - the mixture DIMETHICONE and PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE; - the mixture PEG / PPG-19 / 19 DIMETHICONE and C13-C16 ISO-PARAFFIN and C10-C13 ISOPARAFFIN; - PEG-3 DIMETHICONE; - PEG-10 DIMETHICONE; - their mixtures.

22. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the polyoxyalkylenated linear polydimethylmethylsiloxane emulsifying surfactant is a mixture comprising 1) DIMETHICONE and BIS-PEG / PPG-14 / 14 DIMETHICONE and 2) PEG-10 DI-METHICONE

23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the linear oxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane emulsifying surfactant(s) are present at concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.5 to 7% by weight and even more preferably from 1 to 4% relative to the total weight of the composition.

24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives are present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and more particularly between 0.5 and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

25. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the vitamin B 3 is niacinamide.

26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein vitamin B3 and / or one of its derivatives are present in active ingredient concentrations of less than 5.0% by weight, and more preferably, ranging from 1 to 5% by weight, better still from 2 to 4.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

27. ​​Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the xanthic base is chosen from caffeine, theophylline, theobromine and acefylline, and more particularly caffeine.

28. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the xanthic base(s) are present in active ingredient concentrations of less than 2% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1 to 1% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

29. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, additionally comprising at least one pulverulent coloring material, in particular chosen from iron oxides, titanium dioxides and their mixtures, more particularly titanium dioxides and iron oxides, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

30. Composition according to claim 29, wherein the powdery coloring matter(s) is (are) present, preferably, in the composition in a content ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably 5 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

31. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer carried in at least one silicone or hydrocarbon oil, in particular in gel form, more preferably said elastomer is non-emulsifying, and more particularly of INCI name: DI-METHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER.

32. Composition according to claim 31, wherein the organopolysiloxane elastomer, alone or as a mixture, is present in an active material content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

33. Cosmetic process for coating, in particular for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin such as the face, hands, eyelids, cheeks, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.