COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ETHOXYLATED MATERIALS TO IMPROVE THE PHYSICAL STABILITY OF POLYMER EMULSIONS
The use of ethoxylated agents and polymers in a silicone-free fluid emulsion stabilizes cosmetic compositions with both water-soluble and oil-soluble actives, ensuring stability and a fluid texture, addressing the challenge of emulsion breakdown and undesirable thickening in lighter products.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023011720
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-10-27
- Publication Date
- 2025-12-12
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-10-27
AI Technical Summary
Cosmetic compositions containing both water-soluble and oil-soluble active ingredients face stability issues when not using traditional emulsifiers, leading to emulsion breakdown and undesirable thickening or creaminess, especially in lighter products like serums and lotions.
A fluid emulsion composition using ethoxylated agents and polymers, without silicones, to stabilize the emulsion and maintain a fluid texture, incorporating up to 10% or more of both types of active ingredients, while avoiding heating during the manufacturing process.
The composition achieves stability under freeze/thaw cycles and maintains a serum-like consistency, allowing high concentrations of both water-soluble and oil-soluble actives without becoming creamy or waxy, using renewable and biodegradable components.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ETHOXYLATED MATERIALS TO IMPROVE THE PHYSICAL STABILITY OF POLYMER EMULSIONS FIELD OF INVENTION
[0001] The present invention generally relates to a fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition and a method for manufacturing it to provide benefits to the user's skin. The fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition comprises a combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble active ingredients in a fluid emulsion to provide benefits to the user's skin and exhibit a favorable textural aesthetic that is stable upon emulsion breakdown in a light texture that is neither creamy nor waxy. The benefits of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition include, but are not limited to, the inclusion of >10% of a combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble active ingredients without loss of physical stability. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Cosmetic compositions in the form of emulsions stabilized solely with polymers, as opposed to a combination of traditional emulsifiers and polymers, or traditional emulsifiers alone, can more easily provide light, fluid, and gel-like textures, and this type of sensation is often well-liked by many consumers. However, when oil-soluble actives are used in conjunction with water-soluble actives, an emulsion-type system is required rather than purely aqueous serum or gel-type components, which cannot support oil-soluble actives. Therefore, sensorial yet stable emulsion-based serums containing both water-soluble and oil-soluble actives are necessary.Many traditional emulsifiers are solid or waxy raw materials that require heating to melt during processing, which consumes considerable energy in the heating and cooling process. Furthermore, waxy emulsifiers often increase the viscosity and sensory creaminess or richness of the formula, which is unsuitable or undesirable for consumers seeking lighter, less thick products such as toners, serums, and lotions. Unfortunately, without the use of traditional emulsifiers, emulsion stability is difficult to achieve. Without an emulsifier that can surround the entire oil phase and prevent separation... In emulsion coalescence, the only raw material present to prevent instability is the polymer itself, which may prove insufficient. These polymers can emulsify or disperse oil droplets in a gel-like matrix.
[0003] Thus, there is a need to provide a composition which includes raw materials which are not thick wax emulsifiers and which can improve the stability of the emulsion of polymer-stabilized formulas without substantially altering the feel or galenic (i.e. without transforming a serum into a lotion or cream) of the base formula.
[0004] This disclosure provides a composition that uses ethoxylated raw materials to increase the physical stability of polymer-stabilized emulsions. Furthermore, for reasons of naturalness and renewability, the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition is silicone-free. The absence of silicone provides the derivative benefit of allowing a greater range and higher concentration of oil-soluble actives, including oil-soluble actives that exhibit low solubility in pure silicones. BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0005] This summary is provided to present a selection of concepts in a simplified form, which are described in greater detail below in the detailed description of the invention. This summary is not intended to identify key features of the claimed subject matter or to be used as an aid in determining the scope of the claimed subject matter.
[0006] In various embodiments, a composition is provided for use according to the invention, which includes a direct fluid emulsion composition and a method for manufacturing it. The disclosed fluid emulsion cosmetic composition maintains a fluid texture that does not break, become creamy or waxy, or gel, including during freeze / thaw cycles, retaining active ingredients present at up to 10% or more of a combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble active ingredients.
[0007] A first embodiment proposes a fluid emulsion type cosmetic composition comprising: a direct oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer, at least one thickening polysaccharide, at least one ethoxylated agent having an HLB in a range of 8 to 14, at least one active ingredient selected from water-soluble skin care active ingredients, oil-soluble skin care active ingredients and associated combinations, water and at least one oil, the composition being free of silicones.
[0008] In the various embodiments, the ethoxylated agent is in liquid form at room temperature (“RT” = approx. 25 °C).
[0009] Another embodiment provides an emulsion-type cosmetic composition fluid comprising: a direct oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer present in a range of about 0.15% to about 1.5%, at least one thickening polysaccharide present in a range of about 0.05% to about 2%, at least one ethoxylated agent having an HLB in a range of 8 to 14 and present in a range of about 0.5% to about 5%, at least one active ingredient selected from water-soluble skincare active ingredients, oil-soluble skincare active ingredients, and associated combinations, each active ingredient being present in a range of about 1% to about 20%, water and at least one oil being present in a range of about 2% to about 4%, all quantities being expressed by weight, relative to the weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition, the composition being free of silicones.
[0010] Another embodiment provides a fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition comprising: a direct oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer selected from the group consisting of C10-C30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (may be 89% active), polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer, acrylate / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, sodium polyacrylate, carbomers and associated combinations, at least one thickening polysaccharide selected from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, gum cellulose, locust bean gum, carrageenan and related combinations,at least one ethoxylated agent having an HLB in the range of 8 to 14, at least one active ingredient selected from water-soluble skincare actives, oil-soluble skincare actives, and associated combinations, water, and at least one oil selected from the group consisting of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, C15-C19 alkane, squalane, the composition being silicone-free.
[0011] Another embodiment provides a fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition comprising: a direct oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer comprising a C10-C30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, at least one thickening polysaccharide comprising xanthan gum, at least one ethoxylated surfactant comprising a component of laureth-4 and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, a combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble active ingredients comprising sodium thiosulfate, arginine, sodium hyaluronate, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, capryloyl salicylic acid, carnosine, hydroxyacetophenone, niacinamide, citric acid, caffeine, a glycine-based skin-conditioning agent, water and water-soluble solvents including glycerin, denatured alcohol, butylene glycol and pentylene glycol, and a combination of oils including pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, a C15-C19 alkane and squalane, the composition being silicone-free.
[0012] Another embodiment provides a method for forming a fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition as a direct oil-in-water emulsion, the method comprising supplying at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer, at least one thickening polysaccharide, at least one ethoxylated agent having an HLB in the range of 8 to 14 which is liquid at room temperature, at least one active ingredient selected from water-soluble skincare active ingredients, oil-soluble skincare active ingredients, and associated combinations, water, and at least one oil, the composition being silicone-free, the method including mixing all the ingredients at room temperature without the application of heat.
[0013] In the various embodiments, the fluid emulsion type cosmetic composition has a serum galenic which is stable from any rupture and separation of the emulsion under freezing / thawing conditions.
[0014] In the various embodiments, the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition retains a fluid texture that does not break, become creamy or waxy, or gel, including during freeze / thaw cycles, while maintaining a combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble actives present in an amount that is at least 10% by weight of the composition.
[0015] In some embodiments, the polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer is present in a range of about 0.15% to about 1.5%, with at least one thickening polysaccharide being present in a range of about 0.05% to about 2%.
[0016] In some embodiments, the combination of polymer thickeners in the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition includes a C10-C30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer and a xanthan gum.
[0017] In some embodiments, at least one ethoxylated agent is a component of laureth-4 and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate.
[0018] In some embodiments, the at least one ethoxylated agent is a component of either laureth-4 or PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, each present in a range of about 0.2% to about 5%, by weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition.
[0019] In some embodiments, the active ingredients may include sodium thiosulfate, arginine, sodium hyaluronate, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, capryloyl salicylic acid, camosin, hydroxyacetophenone, niacinamide, citric acid, caffeine, a glycine-based skin-conditioning agent, or a related combination, each present in a range from about 0.05% to about 10%, by weight of the composition.
[0020] In some embodiments, the active ingredients include a combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble active ingredients, the combination being present in an amount of at least 10% by weight of the composition.
[0021] In some embodiments, water is present in a range of about 60% to about 70%, by weight of the composition, and the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition includes water-soluble solvents which include glycerin, denatured alcohol, butylene glycol and pentylene glycol, each being present in a range of about 2% to about 4%, by weight of the composition.
[0022] In some embodiments, at least one oil is chosen from the group consisting of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, a C15-C19 alkane, squalane and associated combinations.
[0023] In some embodiments, at least one oil is present in a range of about 0.5% to about 3%, by weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition.
[0024] In some embodiments, at least one oil includes a combination of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, a C15-C19 alkane and squalane, each present in a range of about 0.5% to about 3%, by weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition.
[0025] In some embodiments, at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer is present in a range of about 0.15% to about 1.5%, at least one thickening polysaccharide is present in a range of about 0.05% to about 2%, at least one ethoxylated agent having an HLB in a range of 8 to 14 is present in a range of about 0.5% to about 5%, each active ingredient is present in a range of about 1% to about 20%, at least one oil is present in a range of about 2% to about 4%, all amounts being expressed by weight, relative to the weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition.
[0026] In certain embodiments, at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer is selected from the group consisting of C10-C30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (may be 89% active), polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer, acrylate / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, sodium polyacrylate, carbomers and associated combinations; at least one thickening polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, cellulose gum, locust bean gum, carrageenan and associated combinations, at least one ethoxylated agent having a HLB in a range of 8 to 14 is chosen from laureth-4 and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, at least one active ingredient is chosen from water-soluble skincare actives, oil-soluble skincare actives and associated combinations, water, and at least one oil is chosen from the group consisting of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, a C15-C19 alkane, squalane and associated combinations.
[0027] In some embodiments, the active ingredients include a combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble active ingredients, the combination being present in an amount of at least 10% by weight of the composition.
[0028] In another embodiment, the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition comprises: a direct oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer comprising a C10-C30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, at least one thickening polysaccharide comprising xanthan gum, at least one ethoxylated surfactant comprising a component of laureth-4 and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, a combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble actives comprising sodium thiosulfate, arginine, sodium hyaluronate, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, capryloyl salicylic acid, carnosine, hydroxyacetophenone, niacinamide, citric acid, caffeine, a glycine-based skin-conditioning agent, water, and solvents. water-soluble compounds comprising glycerin, denatured alcohol, butylene glycol and pentylene glycol,and a combination of oils including pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, a C15-C19 alkane, and squalane; the composition is silicone-free.
[0029] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the fluid emulsion type retaining a fluid texture which does not break, does not become creamy or waxy or which does not gel, including during freeze / thaw cycles, while retaining the combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble actives present in an amount which is at least 10% by weight of the composition.
[0030] Another embodiment proposes a method for forming a fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition as a direct oil-in-water emulsion, the method comprising supplying at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer, at least one thickening polysaccharide, at least one ethoxylated agent having an HLB in the range of 8 to 14 which is liquid at room temperature, at least one active ingredient selected from water-soluble skincare active ingredients, oil-soluble skincare active ingredients, and associated combinations, water, and at least one oil, the composition being free of silicones, the method including mixing all the ingredients at room temperature without the application of heat.
[0031] In some embodiments, the assets include a combination of assets soluble in water and soluble in oil, the combination being present in an amount of at least 10% by weight of the composition.
[0032] This disclosure describes exemplary embodiments according to general inventive concepts and is not intended to limit the scope of the invention in any way. Indeed, the invention as described herein is broader than, and not limited by, the exemplary embodiments presented herein, and the terms used herein have their full ordinary meaning. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0033] In the context of the invention, a direct emulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion.
[0034] “Keratin substrate” and “keratin tissue” each include, but are not limited to, the following: limit, skin, hair and nails.
[0035] “Natural” or “of natural origin” as used herein mean, and refer to, Cosmetically acceptable materials and components that are one or more of those directly obtained from nature, obtained from nature with minimal processing, and derived from materials obtained from nature. The fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition according to this disclosure is, in certain embodiments, up to 99.11% natural, or "highly natural," or "all-natural," meaning that all carbon atoms of intentionally added ingredients are derived from natural sources in accordance with ISO 16128.
[0036] “Skin”, as used herein, means and refers to cutaneous materials containing keratin such as the skin of the face and body, scalp, eyebrows and lips.
[0037] “Stable0” and “stability0” as used herein mean that the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition shows no signs of significant changes in one or more characteristics including colour, odor, pH or viscosity, or rupture / separation of the emulsion or excessive thickening into a creamy, waxy or gel-like texture, aqueous texture or gelling of the cosmetic composition, at room temperature and at temperatures in the range of approximately 25°C to 45°C, and remains stable during freeze / thaw cycles from -20°C to 20°C for up to 10 days.
[0038] As used herein, the term “instability” refers to the inability of a composition to remain fluid or serum-like and demonstrates a breakdown / separation of the emulsion or excessive thickening into a creamy, waxy, or gel-like texture, an aqueous texture, or a gelling of the cosmetic composition. Instability may occur in compositions made outside the scope of the disclosure (i.e. compositions not including the disclosed polymer and ethoxylated agents), and compositions including amounts of polymer thickener exceeding the amounts according to the disclosure, or conventional emulsifiers, thick emollients and waxes.
[0039] The terms “exclude”, “free” and “essentially free” mean that no reliably measurable excluded material is present in the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition, for example, an excluded gellan and waxes, vegetable butters, alcohols / saturated fatty acids above C16, silicones including silicone oils / emollients and silicone emulsifiers, including dimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyltrimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and stearoxytrimethylsilane, and other silicone oils, silicone emulsifiers and silicone elastomers, petrochemicals, including benzalkonium chloride, isododecane, isohexadecane, sulfate-based surfactants,Emulsifiers selected from those with a hydrophobic substance such as an alcohol or C10-C20 fatty acid condensed with approximately 2 to approximately 100 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide per mole of hydrophobic substance; C2-C10 alkylphenols condensed with 2 to 20 moles of alkylene oxide; fatty acid monoesters and diesters of ethylene glycol; fatty acid monoglycerides; sorbitan; C8-C20 mono- and di-fatty acids; polyoxyethylene sorbitan; alkyl polyglycosides and fatty amide saccharides (e.g., methyl gluconamides); alkyl ether sulfates and sulfonates; alkyl sulfates and sulfonates; alkylbenzene sulfonates; alkyl and dialkyl sulfosuccinates; acyl isethionates C8-C20, the (alkyl C8-C20) ether phosphates,alkyl ethercarboxylate. Certain specific emulsifiers that are absent from the composition include PEG-100 stearate; PEG-20 stearate and other poly(ethylene glycol) esters; sucrose stearate and other sugar ester-based emulsifiers; glyceryl stearate and other glycerol esters; PEG-15 disodium ethylene dicocamide disulfate; sodium stearoyl glutamate and other fatty amides; steareth-100 and other fatty ethers; or any other excluded material as described herein. The term “essentially free” means that, although it is preferred that no excluded material be present in the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition, it is possible to have very small amounts of the excluded material in the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition of the invention.provided that these quantities do not materially affect the advantageous properties of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition. In particular, “essentially free of” means that the excluded material may be present in the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition in an amount of less than 5%, or less than 1%. 4%, or less than 3%, or less than 2%, or less than 1%, or less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fluid emulsion type cosmetic composition.
[0040] As shown here, the inventors have provided the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition in the form of a direct oil-in-water emulsion which includes aqueous and oily phases and which includes at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer, at least one thickening polysaccharide, at least one ethoxylated agent having an HLB in a range of 8 to 14, at least one active ingredient selected from water-soluble skincare active ingredients, oil-soluble skincare active ingredients, and associated combinations, water and at least one oil, the composition being free of silicones. The fluid emulsion type cosmetic composition maintains a fluid texture that does not break, become creamy, waxy or gel, including during freeze / thaw cycles, by maintaining a combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble actives present in an amount that is at least 10% by weight of the composition.
[0041] The fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition may also include one or more additional ingredients selected from, but not limited to, phenylethyl resorcinol, chelating agents, other active skin components, antimicrobials and preservatives, fillers, antioxidants, perfumes, pearlescent agents, odor absorbers, coloring materials, essential oils, vitamins and combinations thereof.
[0042] The inventors sought to develop a solution for stabilizing fluid emulsions, for example, a fluid serum-type composition, containing large amounts of oil-soluble and water-soluble active ingredients (greater than or equal to 10%) without breaking the emulsion or without excessive and undesirable thickening or creaminess. The inventors surprisingly discovered that ethoxylated ingredients, including ethoxylated fatty alcohols and ethoxylated fatty acids, represent a class of raw materials (hereinafter referred to as "ethoxylated agents") that can offer the advantage of maintaining a fluid, serum-like consistency in the absence of silicones, with the added benefit of allowing the incorporation of a wide range of active ingredients (water-soluble and / or oil-soluble) that may have resistance to solubility in silicones.In general cosmetic arts, ethoxylated fatty alcohols and ethoxylated fatty acids are known as emulsifiers or solubilizers and are characterized by the presence of a hydrophobic alkyl fatty acid / alcohol portion and a hydrophilic ethylene oxide portion. Existing commercial products that include silicones or traces of ethoxylated agents tend to contain relatively small amounts of oil-soluble and water-soluble actives, while other products contain larger amounts. Thick creams or gel creams containing both water-soluble and oil-soluble active ingredients are often used in thick creams or gel creams that also contain waxy substances. The present invention addresses the need for a light, thin emulsion containing large amounts of both water-soluble and oil-soluble active ingredients and that is stable under freeze / thaw conditions. The ethoxylated surfactant is considered to stabilize the oil phase with the polymer thickening gum without further thickening, thus preserving the fluid, serum-like consistency of the emulsion. Specific examples of such ethoxylated agents, as shown in the examples, include laureth-4 and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate.
[0043] The present invention describes a means of stabilizing a fluid polymer-stabilized emulsion-based serum without adding waxy characteristics or high viscosity by choosing ethoxylated emulsifiers. Other polymers may be more intolerant to electrolytes or thicken in such a way as to add heaviness and body, or thicken excessively to transform a light serum into a lotion or cream. I have identified the main attributes of polymers (liquidity, HLB value, presence of ethoxylation) that offer good stability compared to other polymers that do not meet these criteria. Ethoxylated emulsifiers have shown considerably improved freeze / thaw stability compared to the base and to polyglyceryl-type emulsifiers (as shown in the microscopic images).
[0044] Although it might be expected in the art that the HLB of a surfactant would be a major factor in emulsion stability when all other ingredients are kept constant, the inventors unexpectedly discovered that this is not the case with the composition of the present invention. As shown here, laureth-4, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, and polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate were all found to have very similar HLB values. However, only the former two showed a significant improvement in stability. Therefore, the HLB value is not the major factor in stability, which is an unexpected attribute of this system. Moreover, this can be achieved without the use of silicones (emollients or emulsifiers). This system can easily contain large amounts (>10%) of water-soluble and oil-soluble actives without loss of physical stability.
[0045] The performance(s) of the composition of the invention compared to the reference index not having the claimed combination of ingredients are better than the reference index, including in terms of better stability compared to formulations that do not have ethoxylated emulsifiers, sensory improvement compared to formulations that would need to be stabilized using large amounts of polymer or with waxes, better durability compared to formulations that use silicones.
[0046] The fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition is durable compared to lightweight serums containing silicone, wherein in the composition of the invention, a low level (0.15%) of synthetic polymer is required, and the balance of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition may include fully renewable and biodegradable components, including gum-type thickeners, actives, solvents, oils, and other natural or naturally derived ingredients.
[0047] According to the various embodiments, it is envisaged that some or all of the following ingredients may be excluded from the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic compositions used according to the invention, namely: gellan, waxes, vegetable butters in quantities exceeding approximately 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition, and alcohols / saturated fatty acids above C16 present in quantities exceeding approximately 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition, and silicones including silicone oils / emollients and silicone emulsifiers. Other ingredients that may be excluded are petrochemicals and sulfate-based surfactants.
[0048] Therefore, in various embodiments, the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition is provided according to the following detailed description. Polymer thickeners (polymers)
[0049] According to the disclosure, the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition includes a combination of polymer thickeners which include at least one synthetic polymer or crosslinked polymer, and at least one thickening polysaccharide.
[0050] In certain embodiments, at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer is selected from the group consisting of C10-C30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (may be 89% active), polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer, acrylate / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, sodium polyacrylate, carbomers and associated combinations.
[0051] In some embodiments, at least one thickening polysaccharide is chosen from the group consisting of gums, cellulose derivatives and associated combinations.
[0052] In some embodiments, at least one thickening polysaccharide is a gum selected from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, cellulose gum, locust bean gum, carrageenan and associated combinations.
[0053] In certain embodiments, the combination of polymer thickeners in the Fluid emulsion cosmetic composition includes a C10-C30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer and xanthan gum.
[0054] In some embodiments, any one of the at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer is present in a range of approximately 0.15% to approximately 1.5%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of cosmetically acceptable polymer or crosslinked polymer present in the composition does not exceed approximately 2%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of the at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer is at least approximately 0.1%, or at least approximately 0.15%, or approximately 0.6%, or approximately 0.8%, or approximately 1%, or approximately 1.2%, or approximately 1.5%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range associated, expressed by weight, relative to the weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition.However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other beaches fall within the scope of the invention.
[0055] In some embodiments, any one of the thickening polysaccharides is present in a range of approximately 0.05% to approximately 2%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of thickening polysaccharide present in the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition is approximately 0.03% to approximately 3%, or approximately 0.05% to approximately 2%, or approximately 0.2% to approximately 2%, or approximately 0.3% to approximately 1.5%, or approximately 0.35%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or associated sub-range expressed by weight, relative to the weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition. Those skilled in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0056] Thus, each of the polymer thickeners, alone or in combination, is present in the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition, by weight, relative to the total weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition, as disclosed above, from approximately 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9 to approximately 3.0%, including intermediate increments and ranges. Ethoxylated agents (ethoxylated agents)
[0057] According to the disclosure, a cosmetic composition of the fluid emulsion type according to the disclosure includes at least one ethoxylated emulsifying agent in liquid form at room temperature in a range of about 20 °C to about 28 °C (in some embodiments designated by room temperature, "Ta" = about 25 °C) and has an HLB of about 8.5 to about 16.
[0058] The terms "hydrophilic-lipophilic balance" or "HLB" refer to an expression empirical relationship between the hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups of an emulsifier. This term is well known to those skilled in the art. See, for example, "The HLB System. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection" (Pub: ICI Americas Inc., 1984) and US2006 / 0217283 at paragraph
[0053] .
[0059] In various embodiments, at least one ethoxylated agent has an HLB that lies in the inclusive range of about 8 to about 14, for example the ethoxylated emulsifier has an HLB that lies in a range of about 8.0, 8.1, 8.2, 8.3, 8.4, 8.5, 8.6, 8.7, 8.9, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, to about 14, including increments of about 0.1 and intermediate.
[0060] In some embodiments, a fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition includes at least one ethoxylated agent in liquid form at room temperature in a range of about 20 °C to about 28 °C and has an HLB of about 8 to about 14 selected from the group consisting of ethoxylated fatty alcohols, ethoxylated fatty acids and associated combinations.
[0061] In certain embodiments, at least one ethoxylated agent is selected from the group consisting of laureth-4, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, oleth-10, oleth-5, laureth-9, PEG-7 caprylic / capric glycerides, PEG-6 caprylic / capric glycerides and associated combinations.
[0062] In some embodiments, at least one ethoxylated agent is a component of laureth-4 and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate.
[0063] In some embodiments, the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition includes one or more ingredients selected from the group consisting of ethoxylated agents, each being present in a range of about 0.2% to about 5%, or about 0.5% to about 2%, or not exceeding about 5%, by weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition.
[0064] In some embodiments, the at least one ethoxylated agent may include any laureth-x, where x is from 4 to about 12.
[0065] In some embodiments, the at least one ethoxylated agent may include any oleth-x, where x is from 5 to about 12.
[0066] In some embodiments, the at least one ethoxylated agent may include any PEG-X laurate, where X is from 4 to about 12.
[0067] In some embodiments, the at least one ethoxylated agent may include any PEG-X isostearate, where X is from 5 to about 12.
[0068] In some embodiments, the at least one ethoxylated agent may include any PEG-X oleate, where X is from 5 to about 12.
[0069] In certain embodiments, any one of the at least one ethoxylated agent is present in a range of approximately 0.2% to approximately 5%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition. In certain embodiments In certain embodiments, the total quantity of at least one ethoxylated agent present in the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition does not exceed approximately 5%, by total weight, relative to the total weight of the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, the total quantity of at least one ethoxylated agent is at least approximately 0.4%, or at least approximately 0.5%, or at least approximately 0.6%, or at least approximately 0.8%, or at least approximately 1%, or at least approximately 1.2%, or at least approximately 1.5%.
[0070] The quantity of at least one ethoxylated agent present in the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition is in the range of approximately 0.2% to approximately 5% by weight, or approximately 0.5% to approximately 3% by weight, or approximately 0.8% to approximately 1.5% by weight, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or associated sub-range expressed by weight, relative to the weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition. Those skilled in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0071] Thus, any ethoxylated agent or combination of ethoxylated agents present in the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition, by weight, relative to the total weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition, of approximately 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 2.1, 2.2 2,3, 2,4, 2.5, 2,6, 2,7, 2,8, 2,9, 3, 3,1, 3,2, 3,3, 3,4, 3,5, 3,6, 3,7, 3,8, 3,9, 4, 4,1, 4,2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9, at approximately 5%, including increments and inter-range ranges medians. Assets
[0072] According to the disclosure, a cosmetic composition of the fluid emulsion type as disclosed includes at least one water-soluble active ingredient, at least one oil-soluble active ingredient, or a combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble active ingredients. In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition of the fluid emulsion type as disclosed includes at least one water-soluble active ingredient and at least one oil-soluble active ingredient.
[0073] Generally, the active ingredients can be chosen from any known skincare active ingredients. The active ingredients may or may not include UV-blocking sunscreen active ingredients. The active ingredients may be chosen, for example, but not limited to: hydroxyacetophenone; niacinamide, vitamins, for example, vitamin A, beta-carotene, tocopherol / vitamin E, panthenol, calcium pantothenate, retinol, resveratrol, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, essential oils, antioxidants, such as chalcones, flavones, flavanones, flavanols, flavonols, dihydroflavonols, isoflavonoids, neoflavonoids, catechins, anthocyanins, tannins, lignans, aurones, stilbenoids, curcuminoids, alkylphenols, beta-cyanins, capsacinoids, hydroxybenzoketones, methoxyphenols, naphthoquinones, phenolic terpenes, curcumin, pinoresinol, ferulic acid, hydroxytyrosol, cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, p-coumaric acid, baicalin (Scu-tellaria Baicalensis root extract), mangiferin, pine bark extract (Pinus pinaster bark / bud extract), ellagic acid, escin, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, phenylethyl resorcinol, alpha-hydroxy acids and derivatives and combinations of the above components.
[0074] In some embodiments, the active ingredients may include sodium thiosulfate, arginine, sodium hyaluronate, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, capryloyl salicylic acid, camosine, hydroxyacetophenone, nia-cinamide, citric acid, caffeine, a glycine-based skin revitalizing agent, or a related combination, each present in a range of about 0.05% to about 10%, by weight of the composition.
[0075] In certain particular embodiments, the active ingredients may include sodium thiosulfate present from approximately 0.15% to approximately 0.3% or approximately 0.25%, arginine present from approximately 1% to approximately 2% or approximately 1.5%, sodium hyaluronate present from approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.08% or approximately 0.07%, dipotassium glycyrrhizate present from approximately 0.1% to approximately 0.3% or approximately 0.2%, capryloyl salicylic acid present from approximately 0.25% to approximately 0.35% or approximately 0.3%, camosin present from approximately 0.25% to approximately 0.35% or approximately 0.3%, hydroxyacetophenone present from approximately 0.25% to approximately 0.35% or approximately 0.3%, niacinamide present from approximately 5% to approximately 15% or approximately 10%, citric acid present from approximately 0.25% to approximately 0.7% or approximately 0.45% to approximately 0.5%, caffeine present from approximately 0.5% to approximately 1.5% or approximately 1%, a glycine-based skin-conditioning agent present from approximately 0.4% to approximately 0.6% or about 0.5%, or a related combination, and more generally, each being present in a range of about 0.05% to about 15%, by weight of the composition, and in certain embodiments in a total amount that is about 10% or more, or about 15%, or about 20%.
[0076] Although the active ingredients are given as examples, it will be appreciated if other active ingredients compatible with skin care applications known in the art can be used.
[0077] According to the various embodiments, the quantity of one or more active ingredients, selected from water- or oil-soluble active ingredients, alone or in combination, when present in the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition as disclosed, may be present in a range from approximately 0.0001% to approximately 20%, or from 0.05% to approximately 10%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.005% to approximately 0.01%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.1%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.15% to approximately 5%, and in In some embodiments, from approximately 0.40% to approximately 4%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2.5%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 0.5%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 1% to approximately 2%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range associated by weight, relative to the total weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition. Those skilled in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0078] Thus, any one or a combination of active ingredients and additives may be present, each or the combination being present in approximately 0.0001, 0.0005, 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6,7, 8,9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 at approximately 20%, by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. Solvents Water
[0079] According to the various embodiments, water is present in the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition in a range of approximately 10% to approximately 95%, or approximately 20% to approximately 85%, or approximately 30% to approximately 80%, or approximately 40% to approximately 75%, or approximately 45% to 65%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range associated by weight, relative to the weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition. Those skilled in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0080] Thus, water may be present by weight, relative to the total weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition, of approximately 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90 to approximately 95% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.
[0081] In some embodiments, water is present in a range of about 60% to about 70%, by weight of the composition.
[0082] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, La Roche-Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux-Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint-Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-Bains water or Avène water. The aqueous phase may also include reconstituted thermal water, namely water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium etc., recreating the characteristics of thermal water.
[0083] The pH of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition is adjusted according to the amount of cosmetically acceptable acid to fall within a range of approximately 3.5 to approximately 8.5, or approximately 4.5 to approximately 7, or approximately 5 to approximately 6, or approximately 6 to approximately 7. The pH is adjusted to the desired value by adding a base (organic or inorganic), for example, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or another suitable base, or related combinations thereof. Water-soluble solvents
[0084] According to certain embodiments, the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition may include at least one water-soluble solvent. The term "water-soluble solvent" is interchangeable with "water-miscible solvent" and refers to a compound that is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and that has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90% in water under these conditions. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, glycerin, alcohols (e.g., C1-C30, C1-C15, C1-C10, or C1-C4 alcohols), organic solvents, polyols, glycols, or mixtures thereof.
[0085] In certain embodiments according to disclosure, where appropriate, a water-soluble solvent may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, denatured alcohol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and associated combinations.
[0086] In some embodiments, the water-soluble solvents include glycerin, denatured alcohol, butylene glycol, and pentylene glycol, each present in a range of approximately 1% to approximately 10%, or approximately 2% to approximately 4%, by weight of the composition. According to some of these embodiments, glycerin and denatured alcohol may each be present at approximately 4%, and butylene glycol and pentylene glycol may each be present at approximately 2%.
[0087] Examples of organic solvents include, but are not limited to, monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, or related ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example, monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol. Other suitable examples of Organic solvents include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol, and glycerin. Organic solvents can be volatile or non-volatile compounds.
[0088] Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include alkanols (polyhydric alcohols such as glycols and polyols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol;glycol ethers such as monomethyl ethylene glycol ether, monoethyl ethylene glycol ether, monobutyl ethylene glycol ether, monomethyl ethylene glycol ether acetate, monomethyl diethylene glycol ether, monoethyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-n-butyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl diethylene glycol ether, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, monomethyl propylene glycol ether, monoethyl propylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl propylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl propylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl propylene glycol ether, monomethyl dipropylene glycol ether, monoethyl dipropylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl dipropylene glycol ether and mono-isopropyl dipropylene glycol ether;2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, l,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbitol, sorbitan, acetin, diacetinate, triacetin, sulfolane, or associated combinations.
[0089] According to the various embodiments, the quantity of at least one water-soluble solvent, if any, is from approximately 0.1% to approximately 25%, or from approximately 0.1% to approximately 2%, or from approximately 0.1% to approximately 1%, or from approximately 0.1% to approximately 0.8%, or from approximately 0.1% to approximately 0.5%, or from approximately 1% to approximately 20%, or from approximately 1% to approximately 10%, or from approximately 2% to approximately 8%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range of these values expressed by weight, relative to the weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition. Those skilled in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention. In some embodiments, the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition comprises several water-soluble solvents, each water-soluble solvent being present in a quantity defined above, in which each different water-soluble solvent can be present in one of the ranges chosen from the ranges stated above.
[0090] Thus, each water-soluble solvent or combination of water-soluble solvents, as appropriate, may be present by weight, relative to the total weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition, from approximately 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24 to approximately 25% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. Oily phase: Oil
[0091] According to the various embodiments, the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition includes at least one oil. This oil is present in the oil phase. The oil phase also includes one or more oil-soluble active ingredients. In some embodiments, the oil is generally immiscible with water. The oil may be selected from hydrocarbons, silicones, fatty alcohols, glycols, and vegetable oils. The oil may include a polar or non-polar oil or a combination thereof. In some embodiments, the oil may be selected from hydrocarbon-based oils derived from plants or of vegetable origin, mineral oil, ester oils, fatty alcohols containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, fatty acids containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, and related combinations thereof.
[0092] In certain embodiments according to the disclosure, at least one oil is selected from the group consisting of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, C15-C19 alkane, squalane and associated combinations.
[0093] In some embodiments according to the disclosure, at least one oil includes a combination of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, a C15-C19 alkane and squalane, each present in a range of about 0.5% to about 3%, by weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition.
[0094] As used herein, oil refers to any nonpolar compound that is a liquid at 25 °C and is hydrophobic and lipophilic. An oil suitable for this application may be volatile or non-volatile. The term "volatile oil" refers to an oil that can evaporate upon contact with skin or a keratin fiber in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) are liquid at room temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10⁻³ to 300 mmHg). The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and has a vapor pressure of less than 10⁻³ mmHg (0.13 Pa).
[0095] In accordance with the disclosure, by way of non-limiting example, the oil(s) in the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition may be chosen from vegetable and essential oils, such as Helianthus annuus seed oil, Lavandula angustifolia (lavender) oil, Mentha piperita oil, Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) oil, Pelargonium graveolens flower oil, Citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel oil, Mentha viridis (spearmint) leaf oil, Citrus aurantifolia (lime) oil, Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) leaf oil, Citrus grandis (grapefruit) peel oil, Citrus medica limonum (lemon) peel oil, rose flower oil, oil of Eucalyptus globulus leaf and associated combinations. Hydrocarbon-based oils
[0096] The fluid emulsion cosmetic composition may comprise one or more hydrocarbon-based oils. For example, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be a saturated hydrocarbon, an unsaturated hydrocarbon, lipids, triglycerides, a natural oil, and / or a synthetic oil. In some embodiments, the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition may include a synthetic oil selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated polyisobutene and hydrogenated polydecene. A hydrocarbon-based oil may be a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, such as: i. oils based on hydrocarbons of vegetable origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C24, these chains being saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched;These oils include, in particular, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin seed oil, squash seed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, and rosehip oil. ii. synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms; iii. linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® and squalane 40; iv. synthetic esters, for example oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is particularly branched, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R + R' equals 10, for example, Purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade names Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® by Witco or Tegosoft TN® by Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade name X-Tend 226 by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, palmitate 2-ethylhexyl, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, such as the product sold under the name "Dub Dis" by Stéarinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate;hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as linear C12-C13 di(alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI® by Enichem Augusta Industriale, as well as linear C14-C15 di(alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL® by the same company; or acetates; v. fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature, containing a branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol; vi. higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid; vii. carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC(TM) by Cognis; viii. fatty amides, such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, such as the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL 205(TM) by Ajinomoto; and ix. The essential oils chosen from the group consisting of sunflower oil, sesame oil, peppermint oil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, sage oil, rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, chili berry oil, rose oil, anise oil, balsamic oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedarwood oil, chamomile oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, ci oil tronella, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrh oil, neroli oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepper oil, petitgrain oil, pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, spearmint oil, spikenard oil, vetiver oil, wintergreen and ylang ylang oil.
[0097] Hydrocarbon-based oils may be glyceride triesters and in particular caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol. Examples of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils include hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes, such as petroleum-derived C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C16 esters, and isohexyl neopentanoate.
[0098] In some embodiments, the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition may comprise one or more oils such as those described above, and oils that may be selected from a branched or linear liquid alkane with a carbon chain length from C1 to C20. In various embodiments, the liquid alkanes may be selected from those having a carbon chain length from C1 to C20. The liquid alkanes may be selected from those having a carbon chain length from C1 to C20, or from C15 to C19, or from C11, C12, C13, C14, C15, C16, C17, C18, and C19. In some embodiments, suitable liquid alkanes that may be used according to disclosure include hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes.
[0099] In some embodiments, the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition may comprise one or more oils selected from polar emollients chosen from esters, triglycerides, ethers, carbonates, alcohols, oils, butters, fatty acids, and associated combinations. In various embodiments, the polar emollients may be chosen from those having a molecular weight less than or equal to 400 g / mol. More generally, the polar emollient may have a molecular weight in the range of approximately 50 g / mol% to approximately 350 g / mol.
[0100] In some embodiments, the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition may include polar emollients, including those derived from C12-C50 fatty acids, preferably C16-C22 saturated fatty acids, and monoalcohols. In some embodiments, these esters may be selected from myristate. isopropyl, methyl palmitate, isopropyl laurate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, ethylhexyl laurate, ethylhexyl oleate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, myristyle myristate, 2-ethylhexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, esters of lactic acid and fatty alcohols comprising 12 or 13 carbon atoms, dicaprylyl carbonate and mixtures thereof.
[0101] The oil(s), as appropriate, alone or combined in the form of an oil mixture, may be present in the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition in approximately 0.0001% to approximately 20%, or approximately 0.001% to approximately 0.0010%, or approximately 0.003% to approximately 0.004%, or approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.1%, or approximately 0.1% to approximately 10%, or approximately 0.5% to approximately 20%, or approximately 1% to approximately 10%, or approximately 5% to approximately 10%, or approximately 2% to approximately 7%, or approximately 0.5% to approximately 2%, or approximately 0.008% to approximately 0.01%, or approximately 0.1% to approximately 0.2%, or approximately 0.5% at approximately 2%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range of these values by weight, relative to the weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition. Those skilled in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.In some embodiments, the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition includes several oils, each oil being present in an amount as indicated above, in which each different oil (such as, for example, vegetable oils and extracts with oils) may be present in one of the ranges selected from the ranges stated above.
[0102] Thus, at least one oil or a combination of oils may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition, of approximately 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 at approximately 20% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. Other ingredients
[0103] According to the various embodiments, the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition may further include additional ingredients, generally including, but not limited to, chelating agents, pH adjusters, skin actives, skin revitalizing agents, including, for example, glycine-based revitalizing agents, humectants, antioxidants, plant extracts, vegetable oils and butters, perfumes, pearlescent agents, odor absorbers, colorants, essential oils, vitamins, antimicrobials, and preservatives, and combinations thereof. Non-limiting examples of Some optional additional ingredients are provided below. Chelating agents
[0104] In certain embodiments, one or more other components, such as chelating agents, may be present in the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition, in amounts ranging from about 0.01% to about 2% by weight, from about 0.02% to about 1.5% by weight, from about 0.02% to about 1%, from about 0.02% to about 0.5%, and from about 0.2% to about 0.4%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these weight values, relative to the weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition. In some embodiments given by way of example, the chelating agents are chosen from trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, tetrasodium etidronate, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, pentasodium ethylenediamine tetramethylenephosphonate, sodium stannate and their combinations.
[0105] Thus, a chelating agent or a combination of chelating agents may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition, each chelating agent or combination of chelating agents present from about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0 up to about 2% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. Fillers (including powders)
[0106] According to certain embodiments, the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition may comprise one or more fillers. The fillers may be of mineral or organic origin, natural or synthetic in nature, for the purpose of absorbing oil or providing optical effects. Oil-absorbing fillers may impart a matte finish and a non-greasy feel to the skin. Fillers with optical effects may give the skin a soft focus / haze / blur effect, make the skin appear more even, reduce the appearance of skin imperfections or discolorations, or minimize the visibility of pores.
[0107] In certain specific embodiments, the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition may include fillers in powder form. In certain embodiments, the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition includes at least one powder selected from the group consisting of silica, pigments, boron nitride, lauroyl lysine, perlite, talc, clays, cellulose, and related combinations.
[0108] More generally, some examples of oil-absorbing fillers include: mica, zea may (maize) starch, magnesium oxide, nylon-12, nylon-66, cellulose, polyethylene, talc, talc (and) methicone, talc (and) dimethicone, perlite, sodium silicate, Pumice stone, PTFE, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, polymethyl methacrylate, Oryza sativa (rice) starch, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, modified potato starch, alumina, calcium sodium borosilicate, magnesium carbonate, hydrated silica, crosslinked dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone polymer, sodium carboxymethyl starch. In a preferred embodiment, the oil-absorbing filler comprises spherical porous silica microparticles having an average particle size of 0.5 to 20 µm, the INCI name of which is the silica marketed by JCG Catalysts and Chemicals under the name Spheron L-1500. According to another preferred embodiment, the oil-absorbing filler comprises hydrophobic aerogel particles whose INCI name is silica silylate marketed by Dow Corning under the name VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles.
[0109] Some examples of optical effect fillers include: bismuth oxychloride, silica silylate, boron nitride, iron oxide, calcium carbonate, calcium sulfate (and) iron oxides, potassium and sodium aluminosilicate.
[0110] Some examples of fillers that both absorb oil and exhibit optical effects include: silica, silica (and)methicone, silica (and)dimethicone, poly-silicone-22, polysilicone-8, polysilicone-11, methyl methacrylate crosslinked polymer, polymethylsilsesquioxane, methylsilanol / silicate crosslinked polymer, vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosslinked polymer, diphenyl dimethicone / vinyl diphenyl dimethicone silsesquioxane crosslinked polymer, and styrene / acrylates copolymer.
[0111] The filler, for example a powder, may be present in the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition at a concentration of approximately 0.01% to 25%, or approximately 0.01% to 0.5%, or approximately 0.1% to 0.4%, or approximately 0.2% to 0.3%, or approximately 0.5% to 5.0%, or approximately 1.0% to 5.0%, or approximately 1.2% to 3.5%, or approximately 1.0% to 2.5%, or approximately 1.5% to approximately 2%, or approximately 1.0% to approximately 1.8%, or approximately 2.2% to approximately 2.7%, or approximately 0.25% to approximately 0.4%, or any other combination, sub-combination, range, or associated sub-range expressed by weight, relative to the weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition. fluid emulsion. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other beaches fall within the scope of the invention.In some embodiments, the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition comprises several fillers, each filler being present in a quantity defined above, each different filler being able to be present in one of the ranges chosen from the ranges stated above.
[0112] Thus, each filler or combination of fillers, as appropriate, may be present by weight, relative to the total weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition, of approximately 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 3.0, 4.0, 5.0, 6.0, 7.0, 8.0, 9.0, 10.0, 11.0, 12.0, 13.0, 14.0, 15.0, 16.0, 17.0, 18.0, 19.0, 20.0, 21.0, 22.0, 23.0, 24.0 at approximately 25.0% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. Optional active ingredients and other ingredients
[0113] In certain embodiments, one or more optional active ingredients or other ingredients (hereinafter, "additives") may be present in the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition.
[0114] In some embodiments, the additives may include an antimicrobial agent or a combination of antimicrobial agents and their salts, for example, including, but not limited to, the group consisting of chlorphenesin, caprylyl glycol, phenoxyethanol, caprylhydroxamic acid, benzoic acid, salicylic acid, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, benzalkonium chloride, 4-hydroxyacetophenone, piroctone olamine, hexylglycerin, ethylhexylglycerin, octylglycerin, benzylglycerin, 3-heptoyl-2,2-propanediol, and 1,2-hexanediol, and pentylene glycol, and associated combinations.
[0115] In certain embodiments, the one or more additives present in the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition may include one or more other components, for example, including, but not limited to, penetrants; sequestering agents; perfumes; dispersants; ceramides; opacifiers and related combinations. Although the optional components mentioned above are given by way of example, it would be appreciated if other optional components compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art could be used.
[0116] In some embodiments, the composition may include a penetrant or a penetration enhancer selected from ethoxydiglycol, dimethyl isosorbide, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, fatty acid polyglyceryl ester, lau-rocapram, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, or a related combination.
[0117] According to the various embodiments, the quantity of additives, for example, active ingredients and other components present in the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition can range from about 0.001% to about 50%, from about 0.5% to about 30%, from about 1.5% to about 20%, and from about 5% to about 15%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range associated expressed by weight, relative to the weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition.
[0118] In certain embodiments, one or more additives, alone or in combination, may be present in one or both of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic compositions at concentrations of approximately 0.05% to approximately 50% by weight, approximately 0.05% to approximately 2.5% by weight, approximately 0.1% to approximately 2%, approximately 0.25% to approximately 1.5%, and approximately 0.5% to approximately 1.25%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range expressed by weight relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition of the fluid emulsion type.
[0119] In certain embodiments, one or more other components, such as preservatives, vitamins and analogues, alone or in combination, may be present in the composition according to the disclosure of about 0.05% to about 50% by weight, about 0.05% to about 25% by weight, about 0.1% to about 10%, about 0.25% to about 5%, and about 0.5% to about 3.5%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range associated expressed by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0120] Thus, an additive or a combination of additives may be present in the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition, by weight, relative to the total weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition, each additive or combination of additives presents approximately 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49 at approximately 50% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. EXAMPLES Example 1: Raw materials
[0121] The following raw materials have been used in the examples here.
[0122] [Tables 1] Raw Material Trade Name Percentage of Active Ingredient C10-C30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosslinked Polymer Pemulen EZ4U 100% Laureth-4 100% PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate 100% Oleth-10 100% Oleth-5 100% Laureth-9 100% PEG-7 Caprylic / Capric Glycerides 100% Polyacrylate-6 Crosslinked Polymer Sepimax Zen Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer EMT-10 Raw materials Example 2: Representative compositions
[0123] [Tables2] INCI US INV1 INV2 BASE COMP 1 COMP 2 COMP 3 Active ingredients* approx. 15 approx. 15 approx. 15 approx. 15 Active ingredients** approx. 15 approx. 15 Water-soluble solvents (GLYCERIN, ALCOHOL DENAT., BUTYLENE GLYCOL, PENTYLENE GLYCOL) approx. 12 approx. 12 approx. 12 approx. 12 approx. 12 approx. 12 WATER (approx. 66 to 68) QS QS QS QS QS QS C10-C30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSS-CROSS-CUT POLYMER 0.150 0.150 0.150 0.150 0.150 0.150 XANTHAN GUM 0.350 0.350 0.350 0.350 0.350 0.350 LAURETH-4 0.500 PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE 0.500 POLY-GLYCERYL-4 CAPRATE 0.500 0.500 0.500 1.000 0.500 0.500 PO-LYGLYCERYL-6 DICAPRATE 0.500 PO-LYGLYCERYL-2 ISOSTEARATE 0.500 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMIN DISUCCINATE 0.300 0.300 0.300 0.300 0.300 0.300 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.500 0.500 0.500 0.500 0.500 0.500 0.500 PENTAERYL-THRITYL TETRASOTEARATE (approx. 0.8), approx. 4 approx. 4 approx. 4 approx. Approx. 4. Approx. 4. SQUALANE (approx. 2.2), C15-C19 ALKANE (approx. 1) Pigment (RED 4, RED 33) >0.002 >0.002 >0.002 >0.002 >0.002 >0.002 Compositions of the invention and comparative examples
[0124] * Active ingredients: sodium thiosulfate, arginine, sodium hyaluronate, dipo-glycyrrhizate tassic acid, capryloyl salicylic acid, camosin, hydroxyacetophenone, niacinamide, citric acid, caffeine, glycine-based skin-conditioning agent or ** without camosin
[0125] Example 3: Demonstration of the effect of ethoxvled agents compared to other emulsifiers on stability
[0126] To demonstrate the effect of ethoxylated agents on stability, a base composition (BASE) was prepared. This composition is an oil-in-water emulsion serum containing 0.15% of a C10-C30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer as a stabilizing polymer, with xanthan gum as a thickener to increase viscosity. It also contains approximately 12% of total active ingredients, a penetration enhancer, preservatives, solvents, and 4% of the total oil phase. These ingredients all remain constant in all formulations tested for the effects of ethoxylated and other agents on stability, particularly freezing / thawing.
[0127] In this protocol, which represents potential conditions during shipping and storage, one ounce of each tested composition is placed in a jar that is then placed in a chamber that cycles from -20 °C to 20 °C every 24 hours, and vice versa, and which is repeated daily. The samples are observed after 5 cycles (days) and 10 cycles (days). Notably, the base composition does not pass the freeze / thaw stability test.
[0128] Starting from this BASE, 0.5% of each of the different emulsifiers was added to determine whether their addition improved stability. The examples are described below and correspond to the formulations shown in Table 2 above.
[0129] [Tables3] Tested composition: BASE + HLB INV 1 0.5% laureth-4 10 INV 2 0.5% PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate 11 COMP 1 0.5% polyglyceryl-4 caprate 14 COMP 2 0.5% polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate 5 COMP 3 0.5% polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate 10 Tested formulations and HLB
[0130] Formulas INV 1 and INV 2 include ethoxylated agents, while the three comparators COMP 1, COMP 2 and COMP 3 include emulsifiers that are of an oligomeric nature. They are formed using repeating glycerin motifs, as opposed to repeating ethylene oxide motifs.
[0131] All emulsifiers are liquid at room temperature; the composition can be manufactured without the addition of heat.
[0132] [Tables4] Emulsifier Formula RESULTS BASE Base; none Past T0; instability increases over time; unacceptable at 5 and 10 days INV 1 laureth-4 Past all time points; no difference in emulsion quality INV 2 PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate Past T0 and 5 days; less stable at 10 days but better than the base and other formulations below COMP 1 poly-glyceryl-4 caprate Past T0; instability increases over time; unacceptable at 5 and 10 days Test result
[0133] The base with added ethoxylated agents showed a marked improvement in freeze / thaw stability compared to the base and polyglyceryl agents, as shown by microscopic image analysis.
[0134] It was found that although laureth-4, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, and polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate all had very similar HLB values, only laureth-4 and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate showed a large improvement in stability. Therefore, the HLB value is not the primary factor in stability, which is an unexpected attribute of this system.
[0135] According to certain embodiments, it is envisaged that some or all of the following ingredients may be excluded from the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition according to the invention, namely: alcohols, for example, but not limited to, monohydric alcohols; powders comprising nylon-12, polymethyl methacrylate, polyethylene beads and powders considered to be microplastics; lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid, salicylic acid and associated derivatives (including 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, salicylate, sodium salicylate and willow extract), capryloyl salicylic acid, beta-hydroxybutanoic acid, propionic acid, beta-hydroxy beta-methylbutyric acid, tropic camitine and trethocanic acid;Alkyl polyglucosides selected from the group consisting of decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, coco glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, and associated combinations; surfactants with a C10-C20 fatty alcohol or a hydrophobic acid condensed with about 2 to about 100 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide per mole of hydrophobic; C2-C10 alkylphenols condensed with 2 to 20 moles of alkylene oxide; mono- and di-esters of fatty acids of ethylene glycol; mono-glycerides of fatty acids; sorbitan; C8-C20 mono- and di-fatty acids; polyoxyethylene sorbitan; alkyl polyglycosides and fatty saccharide amides (e.g., methyl gluconamides); alkyl ether sulfates and sulfonates; alkyl sulfates and sulfonates; alkylbenzene sulfonates; alkyl and dialkyl sulfosuccinates; C8-C20 acylisethionates; C8-C20 alkyl ether phosphates; alkyl ether carboxylate, alkyl ether, PEG-100 stearate;PEG-20 stearate and other poly(ethylene glycol) esters; polyethylene glycol (PEG) type surfactants, polypropylene glycol (PPG) type surfactants, sulfate type surfactants, for example, taurate type surfactants; sucrose stearate and other sugar ester emulsifiers; glyceryl stearate and other glycerol esters; PEG-15 disodium ethylenedicocamide disulfate; sodium stearoyl glutamate and other fatty amides; steareth-100 and other fatty ethers, cationic surfactants and other cationic compounds; silicones, such as silicone polymers, silicone elastomers and silicone oils, for example selected from dimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilyl amodimethicone, stearoxytrimethylsilane, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and associated combinations;phthalates, parabens, sulfates, polyquaternium, microplastics, synthetic dyes, gelling agents and associated combinations.
[0136] The adjective "any", "all" means one, some or all indiscriminately, regardless of the quantity.
[0137] “At least one”, as used in this document, means one or several and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0138] The transitional terms “comprising,” “consisting essentially of,” and “consisting of,” when used in the appended claims, in their original and amended forms, define the scope of the claims with respect to any additional elements or steps not mentioned, which are excluded from the scope of the claim(s). The term “comprising” is intended to be inclusive or broad and does not exclude any additional, unmentioned element, process, step, or material. The term “consisting of” excludes any element, step, or material other than those specified in the claims and, in the latter case, impurities ordinarily associated with the specified material(s).The term "essentially consisting of" limits the scope of a claim to the specified elements, steps, or material(s) and to those that do not materially affect the fundamental and innovative feature(s) of the claimed invention. All the processes and materials described herein that incorporate the present invention may, in alternative embodiments, be defined more specifically by any of the transitional terms "comprising," "essentially consisting of," and "consisting of."
[0139] Apart from the examples of operation, or unless otherwise stated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and / or reaction conditions should be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about", meaning at 10% of the stated number (for example, "about 10%" means 9% to 11% and "about 2%" means 1.8% to 2.2%).
[0140] All percentages and ratios are calculated by weight unless otherwise stated. All percentages are calculated relative to the total composition unless otherwise stated. In general, unless expressly stated otherwise herein, "weight" or "quantity" as used herein with respect to the percentage quantity of an ingredient refers to the quantity of raw material comprising the ingredient, the raw material being described herein as comprising less than and up to 100% of the ingredient's activity. Therefore, the weight percentage of an active ingredient in a composition is represented as the quantity of raw material containing the active ingredient that is used and may or may not reflect the final percentage of the active ingredient, the final percentage of the active ingredient being dependent on the weight percentage of the active ingredient in the raw material.
[0141] All ranges and quantities indicated in this document are intended to include subranges and quantities using any disclosed point as a boundary. Thus, a range of "1% to 10%, such as 2% to 8%, such as 3% to 5%" is intended to encompass ranges of "1% to 8%", "1% to 5%", "2% to 10%", and so on. All numbers, quantities, ranges, etc., are intended to be modified by the term "approximately," whether or not it is expressly stated. Similarly, a given range of "approximately 1% to 10%" is understood to have its 1% and 10% limits modified by the term "approximately." Furthermore, it is understood that when a quantity of a component is given, it is assumed to refer to the quantity of the active ingredient, unless specifically stated otherwise.
[0142] Although the numerical ranges and parameters presenting the general scope of the disclosure are approximations, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values presented in the specific examples are reported as accurately as possible. However, every numerical value inherently contains some errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation observed in their respective test measurements. The following example serves to illustrate embodiments of this disclosure but is not, however, limiting in nature.
[0143] Although the invention has been described with reference to a preferred embodiment, those skilled in the art will understand that various changes can be made and that equivalents can replace elements of it without departing from the scope of the invention. Furthermore, numerous modifications can be made to adapt a particular situation or subject matter to the teachings of the invention without departing from its essential scope. Therefore, the invention is not limited to the particular embodiment disclosed as being the best envisaged embodiment for implementing this invention, but the invention will include all embodiments falling within the scope of the appended claims.
Claims
Demands
1. A fluid emulsion cosmetic composition comprising: a direct oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer, at least one thickening polysaccharide, at least one ethoxylated agent having an HLB in the range of 8 to 14 and in liquid form at room temperature, at least one active ingredient selected from water-soluble skincare active ingredients, oil-soluble skincare active ingredients and associated combinations, water and at least one oil, the composition being free from silicones, the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition having a serum-type dosage form that is stable against emulsion breakage and separation under freezing conditions and the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition maintaining a fluid texture that does not break, become creamy or waxy or gel, including during freezing cycles,by maintaining a combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble active ingredients present in an amount that is at least 10% by weight of the composition.
2. A fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer is present in a range of about 0.15% to about 1.5%, at least one thickening polysaccharide is present in a range of about 0.05% to about 2%, and wherein each of the at least one ethoxylated agent is present in a range of about 0.2% to about 5%, by weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition, and wherein the at least one oil is present in a range of about 0.5% to about 3% by weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition.
3. A fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer is present in a range of about 0.15% to about 1.5%, at least one thickening polysaccharide is present in a range of about 0.05% to about 2%, at least one ethoxylated agent having an HLB in a range of 8 to 14 is present in a range of about 0.5% to about 5%, each active ingredient is present in a range of about 1% to about 20%, at least one oil is present in a range of about 2% to about 4%, all quantities being expressed by weight, relative to the weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition.
4. A fluid emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the actives include a combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble actives, the combination being present in an amount which is at least 10% by weight of the composition.
5. A fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein water is present in a range of about 60% to about 70%, by weight of the composition, and the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition includes water-soluble solvents which include glycerin, denatured alcohol, butylene glycol and pentylene glycol, each being present in a range of about 2% to about 4%, by weight of the composition.
6. A fluid emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the combination of polymer thickeners in the fluid emulsion cosmetic composition includes a C10-C30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer and xanthan gum, and wherein at least one ethoxylated agent is a component of laureth-4 and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, and wherein the active ingredients may include sodium thiosulfate, arginine, sodium hyaluronate, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, capryloyl salicylic acid, camosin, hydroxyacetophenone, niacinamide, citric acid, caffeine, a glycine-based skin-conditioning agent, or a related combination thereof, and wherein at least one oil is selected from the group consisting of tetraisostearate of pentaerythrityl, a C15-C19 alkane, squalane and associated combinations.
7. A fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one oil includes a combination of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, a C15-C19 alkane and squalane, each present in a range of about 0.5% to about 3%, by weight of the fluid emulsion-type cosmetic composition.
8. A cosmetic composition of the type fluid emulsion according to claim 1, wherein at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer is selected from the group consisting of C10-C30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer, copolymer of acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, sodium polyacrylate, carbomers and associated combinations, at least one thickening polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, cellulose gum, locust bean gum, carrageenan, and associated combinations, at least one ethoxylated agent having an HLB in the range of 8 to 14 is selected from laureth-4 and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, at least one active ingredient is selected from water-soluble skincare active ingredients, oil-soluble skincare active ingredients, and associated combinations, water and at least one oil is selected from the group consisting of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, a C15-C19 alkane, squalane and associated combinations.
9. A cosmetic fluid emulsion composition comprising: a direct oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one polymer or synthetic crosslinked polymer comprising a C10-C30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, at least one thickening polysaccharide comprising xanthan gum, at least one ethoxylated surfactant in liquid form at room temperature and comprising one component of laureth-4 and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, a combination of water- and oil-soluble actives comprising sodium thiosulfate, arginine, sodium hyaluronate, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, capryloyl salicylic acid, carnosine, hydroxyacetophenone, niacinamide, citric acid, caffeine, a glycine-based skin-conditioning agent, water, and soluble solvents in water containing glycerin, denatured alcohol, butylene glycol and pentylene glycol,and a combination of oils including pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, a C15-C19 alkane and squalane, the composition being silicone-free, the cosmetic composition being a fluid emulsion type maintaining a fluid texture that does not break, become creamy or waxy or gel, including during freeze / thaw cycles, maintaining the combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble active ingredients present in an amount of at least 10% by weight of the composition.
10. A process for forming a cosmetic fluid emulsion composition as a direct oil-in-water emulsion, the process comprising supplying at least one synthetic polymer or crosslinked polymer, at least one thickening polysaccharide, at least one ethoxylated agent having an HLB in the range of 8 to 14 which is liquid at room temperature, of at least one active ingredient selected from water-soluble skincare active ingredients, oil-soluble skincare active ingredients and associated combinations, water, and at least one oil, the composition being free of silicones, the process including mixing all the ingredients at room temperature without application of heat, wherein the active ingredients include a combination of water-soluble and oil-soluble active ingredients, the combination being present in an amount which is at least 10% by weight of the composition.