KERATINOUS FIBER REVITALIZATION COMPOSITION

Abstract

KERATIN FIBER REVITALIZATION COMPOSITION The present invention relates to a keratin fiber revitalization composition comprising: a) at least one lipophilically modified spherical silica particle; b) at least one superabsorbent polymer selected from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer; c) at least one polyacrylic acid salt; and d) at least one volatile solvent selected from alcohols. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for revitalizing keratin fibers comprising the application of a composition according to the present invention to said keratin fibers. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: KERATINOUS FIBER REVITALIZATION COMPOSITION technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for revitalizing keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for revitalizing keratin fibers. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Under certain circumstances, such as sun exposure, keratinous fibers, such as skin and scalp, are likely to sweat, resulting in sebum secretion.

[0003] Excessive sebum secretion on the scalp makes hair oily and alters its appearance, particularly its voluminous appearance.

[0004] Furthermore, the presence of sebum reduces the perceived freshness of the scalp. An oily scalp is the second biggest concern regarding hair and scalp problems, particularly among Chinese consumers.

[0005] There are many products developed to solve the problems caused by excess sebum.

[0006] For example, US5137715A discloses a hair shampoo-conditioner composition consisting substantially of: (a) about 1% to about 20% by weight of an anionic cleansing surfactant; (b) about 0.1% to about 2.5% by weight of a substantially non-crosslinked polymeric amidoamine; and (c) a suitable carrier comprising water; wherein the composition has a pH in the range of about 2.5 to less than 7.

[0007] However, many products on the market are not effective against excess sebum, so they cannot give hair a voluminous appearance.

[0008] It is therefore desirable to have an effective solution against excess sebum, capable of reducing the problems caused by abundant sebum and giving hair a voluminous appearance. Summary of the invention

[0009] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop keratin fiber revitalizing compositions, which can reduce problems caused by abundant sebum and give hair a voluminous appearance.

[0010] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a composition of re- revitalization of keratinous fibers including: a. at least one spherical particle of lipophilically modified silica; b. at least one superabsorbent polymer selected from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer; c. at least one salt of polyacrylic acid; and d. at least one volatile solvent selected from alcohols.

[0011] According to a second aspect, the present invention proposes a cosmetic process for revitalizing keratinous fibers comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention on said keratinous fibers.

[0012] The inventors have discovered that the composition according to the present invention can effectively combat sebum and make hair volumized.

[0013] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even clearer upon reading the detailed description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0014] As used herein, the expression "keratinous fibres" includes human keratinous fibres, including hair.

[0015] As used herein, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0016] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises: a. at least one spherical particle of lipophilically modified silica; b. at least one superabsorbent polymer selected from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer; c. at least one polyacrylic acid salt; and d. at least one volatile solvent selected from alcohols.

[0017] Spherical particles of lipophilically modified silica

[0018] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one spherical particle of lipophilically modified silica.

[0019] As used herein, a "spherical particle" means a particle in the shape of a sphere or at least an approximate sphere, and / or a particle having a side ratio of about 0.9 to 1.1, for example, about 0.95 to 1.05. For example, a person skilled in the art can determine whether a particle is spherical according to conventional knowledge. In particular, with regard to a given silica, it is within the ordinary competence of persons skilled in the art to distinguish the spherical shape from other shapes such as plate, rod, powder, strip, irregular or similar shapes, and from the similar amorphous shape.

[0020] As used here, a "lipophilically modified" silica means a silica having underwent a lipophilic modification. According to the present invention, lipophilic modification refers to any organo-modification capable of imparting a hydrophobic or lipophilic treatment to silica. For example, silica can be treated with a siloxane compound, for example, hydroxydimethylsiloxane (or other silanes, such as silazane, etc.), whereby the silanol group on the surface of the silica and the silanol group of the siloxane compound are condensed.

[0021] In some embodiments, the lipophilically modified silica is chosen from silica treated with a siloxane compound, preferably chosen from silica silylate, silica dimethyl silylate and mixtures thereof.

[0022] Among others, useful examples of "lipophilically modified spherical silica particle" may be that available from TOKUYAMA CORPORATION under the name AIRLICA® TL-10.

[0023] According to the present invention, when incorporated into the composition, the lipophilically modified spherical silica particles can exhibit an oil absorption capacity of 500 mL / 100 g or more, 600 mL / 100 g or more, or even 700 mL / 100 g or more.

[0024] Advantageously, the lipophilically modified spherical silica particles are present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.3% by weight to 2.5% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.5% by weight to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Superabsorbent polymer

[0025] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one superabsorbent polymer selected from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer.

[0026] The term "superabsorbent polymer" is intended to designate a polymer which, in its dry form, is capable of spontaneously absorbing at least 20 times its own weight of aqueous fluid, in particular water, and especially distilled water. Such superabsorbent polymers are described in "Absorbent Polymer Technology, Studies in Polymer Science 8" by L. Brannon-Peppas and R. Harland, published by Elsevier, 1990.

[0027] Advantageously, said superabsorbent polymer is selected from starches grafted with a homo- or copolymer acrylic, in particular starches grafted with sodium polyacrylate. Specifically, the acrylic polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate.

[0028] These polymers have a high capacity for absorbing and retaining water and aqueous fluids. After absorption of the aqueous liquid, the polymer particles thus saturated with aqueous liquid remain insoluble in the aqueous liquid and thus retain their individualized particulate state.

[0029] The superabsorbent polymer can have a water absorption capacity ranging from 20 to 2000 times its own weight (i.e., from 20 g to 2000 g of water absorbed per gram of absorbing polymer), preferably from 30 to 1500 times, and even better from 50 to 1000 times. These water absorption characteristics are defined under standard conditions of temperature (25 °C) and pressure (760 mmHg, or 100,000 Pa) and for distilled water. The water absorption capacity of a polymer can be determined by dispersing 0.5 g of polymer(s) in 150 g of a water solution, waiting for 20 minutes, filtering the unabsorbed solution through a 150 µm filter for 20 minutes, and weighing the unabsorbed water.

[0030] The superabsorbent polymer used in the composition of the invention is in the form of particles. Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer has, in its dry or unhydrated form, an average size less than or equal to 100 µm and preferably less than or equal to 50 µm, for example ranging from 1 to 100 µm, preferably from 5 to 50 µm and even better from 7 to 30 µm.

[0031] The average particle size corresponds to the mass average diameter (D50) measured by laser particle size analysis or other equivalent method known to those skilled in the art. These particles, once hydrated, swell while forming soft particles with an average size ranging from 10 pm to 2000 pm.

[0032] Such polymers are known for their gelling properties and are generally used in a pre-swollen form in aqueous phase.

[0033] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the super-absorbent polymer(s) used comprises 85% to 95% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and 5% to 15% by weight of starch. Preferably, it / they consists of 90% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and 10% by weight of starch.

[0034] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the number average molecular weight of the superabsorbent polymer(s) used is greater than 1000 daltons.

[0035] In particular, we can mention starches grafted with an acrylic polymer and in particular with sodium polyacrylate, such as those sold under the name Sanfresh ST-100MC by Sanyo Chemical Industries or Makhnousse 25, Makhnousse 12 or Ma-kimousse 7 by Daito Kasei (INCI name: Sodium polyacrylate starch).

[0036] The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

[0037] The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention are preferably starches grafted with an acrylic homo- or copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate, which is in particulate form.

[0038] Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer is chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic homopolymer, preferably in the form of particles having a size average (or average diameter) less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably in the form of particles, so that the hairs will not stick together and will have a volumized appearance.

[0039] With the presence of superabsorbent polymers, the composition of the present invention can give a non-wet and quick-drying sensation.

[0040] On the other hand, superabsorbent polymers have a good affinity with the skin, which allows for good fixation of the absorption beads, which can give good sebum control efficiency.

[0041] Advantageously, the superabsorbent polymer is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, most preferably ranging from 0.2% by weight to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polyacrylic acid salts

[0042] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one salt of polyacrylic acid.

[0043] Suitable polyacrylic acid salts for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, metal salts of polyacrylic acid.

[0044] The polyacrylic acid salt can be partially or totally neutralized.

[0045] The acrylic monomers of the polyacrylic acid salts according to the invention can be neutralized in a proportion of 90% to 100%.

[0046] Examples of these include sodium, potassium, lithium and ammonium salts of polyacrylic acid.

[0047] The most preferred salt of polyacrylic acid is sodium polyacrylate.

[0048] Sodium polyacrylates are acrylic homopolymers in the form of partially or totally neutralized, and they are hydrophilic.

[0049] According to the invention, the expression "hydrophilic polymer" refers to a non-amphiphilic polymer that is soluble and dispersible in water.

[0050] In a preferred embodiment, said polyacrylate is sodium polyacrylate designated by CAS number 9003-04-7. Sodium polyacrylate is, for example, COSMEDIA SP sold by BASF or COVACRYL® MV60 sold by SENSIENT.

[0051] Sodium polyacrylate sold under the name Cosmedia SP® contains 90% dry matter and 10% water.

[0052] Advantageously, the polyacrylic acid salt is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, most preferably ranging from 0.2% by weight to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] It is preferable that the weight ratio between the superabsorbent polymer and the polyacrylic acid salt be from 1:4 to 4:1, so that a good balance of the suspension required by the composition and the preferred hair sensation can be achieved.

[0054] The inventors discovered that a combination of starch grafted with an acrylic polymer and polyacrylic acid salt can result in longer and more effective sebum control. Volatile solvents

[0055] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one volatile solvent selected from alcohols.

[0056] Preferably, the volatile solvent is chosen from among the C2-C5 monoalcohols.

[0057] More preferably, the volatile solvent is chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, butan-2-ol, methylpropan-1-ol, methylpropan-2-ol and mixtures thereof.

[0058] Most preferably, the volatile solvent is ethanol.

[0059] Advantageously, the volatile solvent chosen from among the alcohols is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% by weight to 45% by weight, more preferably ranging from 5% by weight to 40% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 10% by weight to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Water

[0060] The composition of the present invention may further include water.

[0061] Water is preferably present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 50% by weight to 99% by weight, preferably from 60% by weight to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Active cosmetic ingredients

[0062] Optionally, the composition of the present invention includes one or more additional active ingredients for revitalizing keratin fibers.

[0063] A person skilled in the art can select the quantity of additional active ingredients according to the desired objective. Adjuvants

[0064] The composition according to the present invention may also include additional adjuvants, such as perfumes, preservatives, etc.

[0065] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional adjuvants so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0066] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention proposes a keratin fiber revitalization composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition : a. from 0.5% by weight to 1.5% by weight of spherical particles of silica silylate; b. from 0.2% by weight to 0.8% by weight of starch grafted with sodium polyacrylate; c. 0.2% by weight to 0.8% by weight of sodium polyacrylate; and d. 10% by weight to 40% by weight of ethanol. Preparation and use

[0067] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the ingredients a) to d), as essential ingredients, as well as one or more additional ingredients, as explained above.

[0068] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0069] The composition of the present invention may be a no-rinse product.

[0070] The composition of the present invention can be used on hair and scalp wet and dry hair immediately after washing or during the day and offer longer-lasting sebum control efficacy.

[0071] According to the second aspect, the present invention proposes a cosmetic process for revitalizing keratinous fibers comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention on said keratinous fibers. EXAMPLES

[0072] The following examples are given by way of non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

[0073] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0074] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier Silica silylate AIRLICA™ TL-10 TOKUYAMA COR PORATION Sodium polyacrylate starch MAKIMOUSSE™ 25 DAITO KASEI KOGYO Sodium polyacrylate COVACRYL® MV60 SENSIENT Ethanol ABSOLUTE ETHANOL ANHUI ANTE FOOD Carbomer CARBOPOL® ULTREZ 10 POLYMER LUBRIZOL Polyquatemium-11 GAFQUAT™ 755 ISP (ASHLAND) VP / VA copolymer LUVISKOL® VA 64 BASF POWDER

[0075] Inventive Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3

[0076] The compositions of inventive examples (El.) 1 and 2 and of comparative examples (EC.) 1 to 3 were prepared with the components listed in Table 2 (contents are expressed as percentages by weight of ingredients relative to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise stated):

[0077] [Tables2] Components El. 1 EI.2 EC. 1 EC. 2 CE. 3 Silica silylate 1 0.7 1 1 1 Sodium polyacrylate starch 0.3 0.3 0 0.3 0.3 Sodium polyacrylate 0.3 0.3 0 0 0.3 Ethanol 30 30 30 0 0 Carbomer 0 0 0.14 0 0 Polyquatemium-11 0 0 0.2 0 0 VP / VA copolymer 0 0 0.4 0 0 Water QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100

[0078] The compositions of inventive examples 1 and 2 are compositions according to the present invention.

[0079] The composition of comparative example 1 does not include at least one superabsorbent polymer selected from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer and at least one polyacrylic acid salt.

[0080] The composition of comparative example 2 does not include at least one salt of polyacrylic acid and at least one volatile solvent selected from alcohols.

[0081] The composition of comparative example 3 does not include at least one volatile solvent chosen from among the alcohols.

[0082] Preparation procedure:

[0083] Each composition was prepared as follows, taking the composition of inventive example 1 as an example: 1. Dispersion of silica silylate in ethanol to obtain a premixed phase A; 2. Add water to a main container, 3. Addition of sodium polyacrylate starch and sodium hyaluronate crosslinked polymer to the main container while stirring; and 4. Addition of premix phase A to the main container while stirring; and 5. Addition of other components, if necessary, under stirring to obtain a homogeneous composition. Assessment

[0084] The anti-sebum migration effect and the volumizing appearance of the hair offered by each composition prepared above were evaluated. Anti-sebum migration

[0085] Strands of 100% white hair were used for this test; a pre-wash reset was performed with a standard shampoo. The compositions of inventive examples 1 and 2 and comparative examples 1 to 3 were evaluated in this test.

[0086] 2.5 g of a test composition were applied to each strand, each A lock of hair was then fixed onto a support.

[0087] After preheating to 40 °C, 100 qL of artificial sebum were collected using an automatic micropipette and applied to the end of a spatula.

[0088] The strand of hair was then wrapped around a rigid ruler, and the artificial sebum was spread evenly from the spatula over a calibrated length of 3 cm, which was separated by 1.5 cm from the support.

[0089] A timer was started and the sebum front was observed after 20 minutes, 40 minutes, 2 hours, 24 hours and 48 hours. The migration distance was measured and recorded at these times. Hair volumized appearance

[0090] 6 g of natural hair strands were used for this test; a pre-wash of The reset was performed using a standard shampoo. The compositions of Inventive examples 1 and 2 and comparative examples 1 to 3 were evaluated in this trial.

[0091] 0.3 g of oleic acid was applied to each wick, then 1.5 g of a composition the test was applied to each strand.

[0092] After drying, each strand was combed five times and the volume of each strand was observed and noted from 1 to 5 according to the following criterion.

[0093] 5: very good; separate and distinct appearance of hair fibers.

[0094] 4: Overall good; very good volumized hair appearance, fibers not brittle completely separated.

[0095] 3: acceptable; a good volumized appearance of the hair, with some fibers sticky.

[0096] 2: slightly mediocre and unacceptable; the hair lacks volume with sticky fibers.

[0097] 1: mediocre, unacceptable, the fibers stick together, flax-like appearance hair.

[0098] The sebum migration distance and the average scores regarding the volumized appearance of hair offered by the compositions of inventive examples 1 and 2 and comparative examples 1 to 3 have been summarized in Table 3.

[0099] [Tables3] Properties El. 1 EL 2 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 Sebum migration distance (cm) 20 min 5.3 5.4 5.3 5.5 5.4 40 min 5.4 5.6 5.7 6.0 5.8 2h 5.6 5.8 6.3 7.5 6.2 24h 6.0 6.3 6.7 8.2 7.0 48h 6.3 6.5 7.2 8.7 7.4 Score regarding hair volumization appearance 4 4 ​​2 2 2

[0100] It can be seen in Table 3 that each composition of inventive examples 1 and 2 has good anti-sebum performance and can give hair a good volumized appearance.

Claims

Demands

1. Keratin fiber revitalization composition comprising: a) at least one lipophilically modified spherical silica particle; b) at least one superabsorbent polymer selected from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer; c) at least one polyacrylic acid salt; and d) at least one volatile solvent selected from alcohols.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the lipophilically modified silica is selected from silica treated with a siloxane compound, preferably selected from silica silylate, silica dimethyl silylate and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the superabsorbent polymer is selected from starches grafted with an acrylic homo- or copolymer, in particular starches grafted with sodium polyacrylate.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the polyacrylic acid salt is selected from the metal salts of polyacrylic acid, preferably, the polyacrylic acid salt is selected from the sodium, potassium, lithium and ammonium salts of polyacrylic acid, more preferably, the polyacrylic acid salt is sodium polyacrylate.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the weight ratio between the superabsorbent polymer and the polyacrylic acid salt is 1:4 to 4:

1.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the volatile solvent is selected from C2-C5 monoalcohols, preferably selected from ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, butan-2-ol, methylpropan-1-ol, methylpropan-2-ol and mixtures thereof, more preferably, the volatile solvent is ethanol.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the volatile solvent selected from the alcohols is present in an amount from 0.1% by weight to 50% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 45% by weight, more preferably from 5% by weight to 40% by weight, even more preferably from 10% by weight to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, including water.

9. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, in relation to the total weight of the composition: a) 0.5% to 1.5% by weight of spherical silica silylate particles; b) 0.2% to 0.8% by weight of starch grafted with sodium polyacrylate; c) 0.2% to 0.8% by weight of sodium polyacrylate; and d) 10% to 40% by weight of ethanol.

10. Cosmetic process for revitalizing keratinous fibers comprising the application of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9 on said keratinous fibers.