SKINCARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS

A lipstick composition with silicone elastomer resin, hydrophobic silica, and sugar ester addresses the issues of breakage, softness, and uneven coloration, providing a durable, matte, and non-greasy finish.

FR3154616B3Active Publication Date: 2025-12-12LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2023012878
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Utility models
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2023-10-25
Filing Date
2023-11-22
Publication Date
2025-12-12
Estimated Expiration
2033-11-22

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing matte lipsticks are prone to breaking or being too soft, and they often result in non-uniform coloration, greasiness, or dryness, which are undesirable characteristics.

Method used

A composition comprising silicone elastomer resin, hydrophobic silica, and sugar ester is developed to provide a matte finish, uniform coloring, and a non-greasy, non-drying effect, with a hardness greater than 30 Nm-1 to prevent breakage or softness.

Benefits of technology

The composition achieves a solid, non-breakable, and non-drying lipstick with a matte finish and uniform coloration, enhancing user experience and product durability.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.
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Abstract

CARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS MATERIALS The present invention relates to a care and / or make-up composition for keratinous materials comprising: a) at least one silicone elastomer resin; b) at least one hydrophobic silica; and c) at least one sugar ester selected from C1-C30 monoesters and sugar polyesters. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for the care and / or make-up of keratinous materials comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous materials. Figure for the abstract: none
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Description

Title of the invention: SKINCARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials. More particularly, the present invention relates to a lip care and / or makeup composition. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Lipsticks have been used for many years to accentuate the positive features of the wearer's lips. Lipsticks are capable of altering the apparent facial features of the wearer. In addition to changing the shape of the lips, lipsticks can be manufactured in a wide variety of colors and shades to promote a desired effect or express the wearer's mood.

[0003] To date, certain prior art documents relating to cos compositions Makeup and / or skincare and / or lip care products have been published.

[0004] Lipsticks offering a matte makeup finish are popular with consumers.

[0005] For most matte lipsticks, oil-absorbing fillers and silicone elastomers are used to create a matte and smooth effect to evenly color the entire lip without color difference.

[0006] For some lipsticks that offer a matte finish on lipsticks, some are easy to break or too soft, others are too dry, which is not desirable.

[0007] Therefore, there is a need to develop a lipstick that is not easy to break or too soft and that can offer a matte finish, uniform colouring, non-greasy and non-drying. Summary of the invention

[0008] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop a lipstick which is not easy to break or too soft and which can offer a matte makeup finish, uniform colouring, non-greasy and non-drying.

[0009] Another object of the present invention is to provide a non-therapeutic lip care and / or makeup process, which is not easy to break or too soft and which can offer a matte makeup finish, uniform coloring, non-greasy and non-drying.

[0010] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a composition, of preference for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising: a. at least one silicone elastomer resin; b. at least one hydrophobic silica; and c. at least one sugar ester selected from the Ci-C30 monoesters and the po sugar esters.

[0011] The inventors have discovered that with the combination of components a) to c) mentioned above, the composition according to the present invention is not easy to break or too soft and can offer a matte, evenly colored, non-greasy and non-drying makeup finish.

[0012] According to a second aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application of the composition as described above on the keratinous materials.

[0013] Other subjects, features, aspects, and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0014] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used in this document have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field covered by the present invention. Where the definition of a term in the present invention conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field covered by the present invention, the definition described in the present invention shall apply.

[0015] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0016] Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0017] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as any optional, additional, and unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0018] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Accordingly, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​that may be changed depending on the purpose. desired, if applicable.

[0019] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.

[0020] As used herein, the expression "keratinous materials" refers to the skin and lips. "Skin" means all the skin of the body, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratinous material is the lips.

[0021] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention is solid.

[0022] The term "solid" used here means that the hardness of the composition at 20 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is greater than or equal to 30 Nm 1 when measured according to the protocol described below.

[0023] The composition whose hardness is to be determined is stored at 20 °C for 24 hours before measuring the hardness.

[0024] Hardness can be measured at 20 °C by the "butter wire" method, which consists of cutting a rod of product, preferably a circular cylinder, transversely with a rigid tungsten wire of 250 pm diameter, moving the wire relative to the rod at a speed of 100 mm / minute.

[0025] The hardness of the samples of compositions of the present invention, expressed in Nm*, is measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing machine from the company Indelco-Chatillon.

[0026] The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged. The average of the three shear values ​​read using the tensile testing machine mentioned above, denoted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted to Newtons and then divided by L, which represents the longest distance traveled by the wire. In the case of a cylindrical rod, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).

[0027] The hardness is converted to Nm 1 by the equation below:

[0028] (Y x 103 x 9.8) / L

[0029] For a measurement at a different temperature, the composition is stored for 24 hours at this new temperature before the measurement.

[0030] According to this measurement method, the composition according to the present invention preferably has a hardness at 20 °C and atmospheric pressure greater than or equal to 100 Nm1 and preferably greater than 110 Nm1. Thus, these compositions can be formulated in a standard package that does not require any composition support means.

[0031] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention has in particular a hardness at 20 °C of less than 200 Nm1, and preferably less than 160 Nm1.

[0032] The composition according to the present invention comprises: has. b. at least one silicone elastomeric resin; at least one hydrophobic silica; and c. at least one sugar ester selected from Ci-C30 monoesters and sugar polyesters. Silicone elastomer resins

[0033] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one silicone elastomer resin.

[0034] As used herein, "silicone elastomer resin" is a compound comprising a portion of "silicone elastomer" and a portion of "resin". Silicone elastomer resins are described or referenced in US patents Nos. 8,987,373 and 9,175,139 and in US patent application publication No. 2015 / 0073059.

[0035] With regard to the silicone elastomer portion, this portion corresponds to polyorganosiloxanes commonly known as silicone elastomers. In the art, "elastomer" is generally understood to designate a flexible and deformable solid material having viscoelastic properties. However, its modulus of elasticity is such that it is resistant to deformation and has a limited capacity to expand and contract.

[0036] The silicone elastomer portion is preferably partially or completely crosslinked. The degree of crosslinking can vary depending on the desired elastic properties. The crosslinking materials can be hydrophilic (ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, for example), hydrophobic (dimethicone, vinyl dimethicone, alkyl, etc.) or combinations thereof.

[0037] Crosslinking can be achieved, for example, by an addition crosslinking reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydrogen atom bonded to a silicon atom and a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two groups comprising an ethylenic unsaturation bonded to distinct silicon atoms, in particular in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by a condensation / dehydrogenation crosslinking reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane comprising hydroxyl terminations and a diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydrogen atom bonded to a silicon atom, in particular in the presence of an organotin compound; or by a condensation crosslinking reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane comprising hydroxyl terminations and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of an organopolysiloxane, particularly in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst;or by cross-linking an organopolysiloxane by high-energy radiation, such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, or an electron beam.

[0038] Crosslinking can be achieved, for example, by an addition crosslinking reaction (A) of a diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydrogen atom bonded to a silicon atom and (B) of a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two groups each comprising an ethylenic unsaturation linked to a distinct silicon atom, particularly in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst such, for example, as disclosed in Application EP-A-295 886.

[0039] The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group. Compound (A) may therefore be selected from methylhydropolysiloxanes comprising tri-methylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane / methylhydrosiloxane copolymers comprising trimethylsiloxy terminations, or cyclic dimethylsiloxane / methylhydrosiloxane copolymers.

[0040] Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example, at C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be selected from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position on the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched-chain, linear-chain, cyclic, or network structure, but the linear-chain structure is preferred.In addition to the aforementioned alkenyl groups, other organic groups bonded to silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl groups, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, or octyl; substituted alkyl groups, such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups, such as phenyl, tolyl, or xylyl; substituted aryl groups, such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups, such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.Organopolysiloxanes (B) may be selected from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy endings, dimethylsiloxane / methylphenylsiloxane copolymers comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy endings, dimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane copolymers comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy endings, dimethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane copolymers comprising trimethylsiloxy endings, dimethylsiloxane / methylphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane copolymers comprising trimethylsiloxy endings, methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy endings and dimethylsiloxane / methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymers comprising dimethylvi- endings. nylsiloxy.

[0041] According to preferred embodiments, the crosslinking is at least partially accomplished by the resin portion. Preferably, the crosslinking in the silicone elastomer resin is solely due to the resin portion.

[0042] With regard to the resin portion, using the same silicone resin nomenclature (“MDTQ”) as mentioned above, the resin portion can be described according to the various siloxane monomer motifs that constitute the polymer.

[0043] The letter M represents the monofunctional motif, for example, of formula (CH3)3SiO i / 2, the silicon atom being bonded to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this motif.

[0044] The letter D denotes a difunctional motif, for example, (CH3)2SiO2 / 2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.

[0045] The letter T represents a trifunctional motif, for example, of the formula (CH3)SiO3 / 2.

[0046] The letter Q designates a tetrafunctional SiO4 / 2 motif in which the silicon atom is bonded to four hydrogen atoms, which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer.

[0047] Thus, for example, the portion of resin can be a T resin, an MQ resin (“trimethylsiloxysilicate”), an MT resin, an MDT resin, an MDQ resin, etc.

[0048] In motifs M, D, and T listed as examples above, at least one of the methyl groups may be substituted by a hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl group. In preferred embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms is a methyl group.

[0049] The silicone elastomer resin preferably has a particle size ranging from 0.1 to 500 µm, preferably from 3 to 200 µm and preferably from 3 to 50 µm. The silicone elastomer resin can have any shape and, for example, be spherical, flat or amorphous.

[0050] According to preferred embodiments, when placed in a solvent, the silicone elastomer resin does not swell substantially (unlike typical silicone elastomers which swell upon introduction into a solvent). Preferably, when placed in a solvent, the silicone elastomer resin swells (increases in size) by less than 10% of the size of the silicone elastomer resin (in the unswollen state), preferably by less than 7.5% of the size of the silicone elastomer resin (in the unswollen state), preferably by less than 5% of the size of the silicone elastomer resin (in the unswollen state), preferably by less than 2.5% of the size of the silicone elastomer resin (in the unswollen state), preferably by less than 1% of the size of the silicone elastomer resin (in the unswollen state).

[0051] Preferably, the silicone elastomer resin comprises at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate group.

[0052] Suitable examples of silicone elastomeric resins include the crosslinked vinyldimethyl / trimethylsiloxysilicate stearyl dimethicone polymer, available as an elastomeric gel BELSIL® RG 90 (isodecane (and) crosslinked vinyl-dimethyl / trimethylsiloxysilicate stearyl dimethicone polymer) from Wacker; the crosslinked dimethicone / vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate polymer, available under the name BELSIL® REG 1102 (DIMETHICONE, DIMETHICONE / VINYLTRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE CROSSPOLYMER) from Wacker; and the crosslinked dimethicone / vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate polymer, available under the name BELSIL® REG 102 (cyclopentasiloxane, crosslinked dimethicone / vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate polymer) from Wacker.

[0053] In some embodiments, the silicone elastomer resin is selected from vinyldimethyl / trimethylsiloxysilicate stearyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, dimethicone / trimethylsiloxysilicate vinyl crosslinked polymer, and mixtures thereof.

[0054] Silicone elastomeric resins can be dissolved in a suitable solvent, either before their introduction into the composition of the invention, or in situ within the composition. Examples of suitable solvents include, but are not limited to, volatile and non-volatile silicones, volatile and non-volatile alcohols, volatile and non-volatile esters, volatile and non-volatile hydrocarbons and mixtures thereof.

[0055] Advantageously, the silicone elastomer resin is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrophobic silicas

[0056] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydrophobic silica.

[0057] The expression "hydrophobic silica" is understood to mean, in the context of the present invention, both pure hydrophobic silicas and particles coated with hydrophobic silica.

[0058] According to a specific embodiment, the hydrophobic silicas that can be used in the composition of the invention are amorphous and of sublimed origin. They are preferably supplied in powder form.

[0059] Amorphous hydrophobic silicas of sublimed origin are obtained from hydrophilic silicas. The latter are obtained by pyrolysis of silicon tetrachloride (SiCl4) in a continuous flame at 1000 °C in the presence of hydrogen and oxygen. They are then rendered hydrophobic by treatment with halogenated silanes, alkoxysilanes, or silazanes. The hydrophobic silicas differ from the starting hydrophilic silicas, among other things, by a lower density of silanol groups and by a lower water vapor adsorption.

[0060] According to this embodiment, the hydrophobic silica is preferably chosen from silicas having a specific surface area of ​​50 to 500 m² / g and a number-average particle size ranging from 3 to 50 nm. This refers more particularly to the hydrophobic silicas described in the following table, and mixtures thereof.

[0061] [Tables 1] Trade name Aerosil R202 (Evonik Degussa) Aerosil R805 (Evonik Degussa) Aerosil R812 (Evonik Degussa) Aerosil R972 (Evonik Degussa) Aerosil R974 (Evonik Degussa) BET surface (m2 / g) 90 + 20 150 + 25 260 + 30 110 + 20 170 + 20 Average particle size (nm) 14 12 7 16 12

[0062] According to this embodiment, the hydrophobic silica used in the composition of the invention may also consist of a particle wholly or partially coated with silica, in particular an inorganic particle wholly or partially coated with hydrophobic silica, such as pigments and metal oxides coated with hydrophobic silica. These particles may also have optical properties in the product and on the skin; for example, they may have a mattifying or slightly whitening effect.

[0063] Preferably, as a hydrophobic silica, hydrophobic sublimated silica surface-treated with a dimethylsiloxane is used, such as that sold under the name Aerosil R972 (INCI name: Silica Dimethyl Silylate) by Evonik Degussa.

[0064] According to another specific embodiment, the hydrophobic silicas that can be used in the composition of the invention are hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g and a size, expressed in volume mean diameter (D[0.5], also known as volume median particle size Dv50), ranging from 1 to 1500 pm.

[0065] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

[0066] They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction from a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying avoids the shrinkage of pores and matter. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker, CJ, and Scherer, GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.

[0067] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) of 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably 600 to 1200 m2 / g and even better 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size, expressed in volume mean diameter (D[0,5]), also known as volume median particle size Dv50), of 1 to 1500 pm, even better 1 to 1000 pm, preferably 1 to 100 pm, in particular 1 to 30 pm, more preferably 5 to 25 pm, even better 5 to 20 pm and even better 5 to 15 pm.

[0068] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size, expressed in volume mean diameter (D[0.5]), also known as volume median particle size Dv50), ranging from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better still from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.

[0069] The specific surface area per unit weight can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society," Vol. 60, p. 309, February 1938, corresponding to International Standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of ​​the particles considered. The sizes of the aerogel silica particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercially available particle size analyzer such as the Malvem MasterSizer 2000. The data are processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, allows the determination, in the case of non-spherical particles, of an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, HC, “Light Scattering by Small Particles”) Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0070] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a size, expressed in volume mean diameter (D[0.5], also known as the volume median particle size Dv50), ranging from 5 to 20 pm and even better from 5 to 15 pm.

[0071] The aerogel silica particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a packed density (p) ranging from 0.04 g / cm3 to 0.10 g / cm3 and preferably from 0.05 g / cm3 to 0.08 g / cm3.

[0072] In the context of the present invention, this density, known as the The name of the packed density can be determined according to the following protocol:

[0073] 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder; the cylinder is then The specimen is placed on the Stampf Volumeter Stav 2003 apparatus; it is then subjected to a series of 2500 compaction movements (this operation is repeated until the volume difference between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of compacted powder is then measured on the specimen. The compacted density is determined by the ratio w / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm³ and w in g).

[0074] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m2 / cm3, preferably from 10 to 50 m2 / cm3 and even better from 15 to 40 m2 / cm3.

[0075] The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: SV = SW xp where p is the packed density, expressed in g / cm3, and SW is the specific surface area per unit weight, expressed in m2 / g, as defined above.

[0076] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wetting point, ranging from 5 to 18 mL / g, preferably from 6 to 15 mL / g and even better from 8 to 12 mL / g.

[0077] The absorption capacity measured at the wetting point, noted Wp, corresponds to the quantity of oil that needs to be added to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.

[0078] It is measured according to the "wetting point" method or the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wetting point, described below:

[0079] A quantity w = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate, and the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is then added drop by drop. After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, the mixture is stirred with a spatula, and the addition of oil continues until clumps of oil and powder form. From this point on, the oil is added one drop at a time, and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The weight (expressed in g) of the oil used is then recorded.

[0080] The oil intake corresponds to the g / g ratio.

[0081] The aerogels used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).

[0082] The expression "hydrophobic silica" is understood to mean any silica whose surface is treated with silylation agents, for example, halogenated silanes, such than alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, in such a way as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example, trimethylsilyl groups.

[0083] With regard to the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by silylation, reference may be made to US patent 7,470,725.

[0084] In particular, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface with trimethylsilyl groups (trimethylsiloxylated silica) will be used.

[0085] Examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention include, for example, the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size of approximately 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit weight ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0086] We can also mention the aerogels sold by Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203.

[0087] In particular, aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by Dow Corning will be used, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit weight ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0088] Advantageously, hydrophobic silica is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.3% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Sugar esters

[0089] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one sugar ester selected from Ci-C30 monoesters, sugar polyesters and their mixture.

[0090] Depending on the constituent acid and sugar, these esters may be in liquid or solid form at room temperature. Suitable liquid esters may include, but are not limited to: glucose tetraoleate, glucose tetraesters of soybean oil fatty acids (unsaturated), mannose tetraesters of mixed soybean oil fatty acids, galactose tetraesters of oleic acid, arabinose tetraesters of linoleic acid, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleate, sorbitol hexaesters of unsaturated soybean oil fatty acids, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose hepatoleate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures thereof. Suitable solid esters may include, but are not limited to: sorbitol hexaester in which the carboxylic acid ester fractions are the palmitoleate and arachidate in a molar ratio of 1:2; raffinose octaester in which the carboxylic acid ester fractions are linoleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 1:3; maltose heptaester in which the esterifying carboxylic acid fractions are sunflower seed oil fatty acids and lignocerate in a molar ratio of 3:4; sucrose octaester in which the esterifying carboxylic acid fractions are oleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 2:6; and sucrose octaester in which the esterifying carboxylic acid fractions are laurate, linoleate, and behenate in a molar ratio of 1:3:4.

[0091] Preferably, the sugar ester is selected from C2-C6 carboxylic acid esters of sugars, in particular C2-C6 carboxylic acid esters of sucrose. More preferably, the sugar ester is selected from mixed esters of acetic acid, isobutyric acid and sucrose, and in particular sucrose hexakis(2-methylpropanoate) diacetate, such as the product sold under the name Sustane SAIB Food Grade Kosher by Eastman Chemical (INCI name: sucrose acetate isobutyrate), which has a viscosity of about 100,000 cps at 30 °C and a refractive index of about 1.5 at 20 °C.

[0092] Advantageously, the sugar ester is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 3% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Pigments

[0093] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more pigments.

[0094] The term “pigments” should be understood as designating white or colored particles, inorganic (mineral) or organic, which are insoluble in a liquid organic phase, and which are intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the deposit produced with the composition.

[0095] The pigments can be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0096] Mineral pigments can be selected from metal oxide pigments, such as chromium oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow, red), titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, chromium hydrate, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powders and copper powder, and mixtures thereof.

[0097] Among the organic pigments that can be specifically mentioned are those known by the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Purple No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6, D&C Aluminum Lake Red No. 2, D&C Aluminum Lake Red No. 3, D&C Aluminum Lake Red No. 4, D&C Aluminum Lake Red No. 6, D&C Barium Lake Red No. 6, D&C Barium / Strontium Lake Red No. 6, D&C Strontium Lake Red No. 6, D&C Potassium Lake Red No. 6, D&C Aluminum Lake Red No. 7, D&C Barium Lake Red No. 7, D&C Calcium Lake Red No. 7, D&C Calcium / Strontium Lake Red No. 7, D&C Zirconium Lake Red No. 7D&C Red Sodium Lake No. 8, D&C Red Aluminum Lake No. 9, D&C Red Barium Lake No. 9, D&C Red Barium / Strontium Lake No. 9, D&C Red Zirconium Lake No. 9, D&C Red Sodium Lake No. 10, D&C Red Aluminum Lake No. 19, D&C Red Barium Lake No. 19, D&C Red Zirconium Lake No. 19, D&C Red Aluminum Lake No. 21, D&C Red Zirconium Lake No. 21, D&C Red Aluminum Lake No. 22, D&C Red Aluminum Lake No. 27, D&C Red Aluminum / Titanium / Zirconium Lake No. 27, D&C Red Barium Lake No. 27, D&C Red Calcium Lake No. 27, D&C red zirconium lacquer no. 27, D&C red aluminum lacquer no. 28, D&C red lacquer no. 30, D&C red calcium lacquer no. 31, D&C red aluminum lacquer no. 33, D&C red calcium lacquer no. 34, D&C red lacquer no. 36, D&C red aluminum lacquer no. 40, D&C blue aluminum lacquer no. 1, D&C green aluminum lacquer no. 3, D&C orange aluminum lacquer no. 4, D&C orange aluminum lacquer no. 5, D&C orange zirconium lacquer no. 5,D&C aluminum lacquer orange no. 10, D&C barium lacquer orange no. 17, D&C aluminum lacquer yellow no. 5, D&C zirconium lacquer yellow no. 5, D&C aluminum lacquer yellow no. 6, D&C zirconium lacquer yellow no. 7, D&C aluminum lacquer yellow no. 10, FD&C aluminum lacquer blue no. 1, FD&C aluminum lacquer red no. 4, FD&C aluminum lacquer red no. 40, FD&C aluminum lacquer yellow no. 5 and FD&C aluminum lacquer yellow no. 6.

[0098] The pigments may also have been subjected to a hydrophobic treatment.

[0099] The hydrophobic treatment agent can be chosen from silicones such as me- thicones, dimethicones, alkoxysilanes and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising per- groups fluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether and amino acids; N-acylaminated acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate and mixtures thereof.

[0100] Preferably, the pigment is chosen from metal oxide pigments, organic pigments and their mixtures.

[0101] More preferably, the pigment is chosen from RED 7, YELLOW 6, iron oxides, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof.

[0102] Advantageously, the pigment is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 5% by weight to 14% by weight, preferably from 6% by weight to 13% by weight, more preferably from 6% by weight to 12% by weight, even more preferably from 6% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably still from 6.5% by weight to 9% by weight, most preferably still from 6.5% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Waxes

[0103] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more waxes.

[0104] The term “wax” refers to a lipophilic compound which is solid at room temperature (25 °C), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 °C, which can go up to 200 °C and in particular up to 120 °C.

[0105] Preferably, the wax is chosen from polyethylene wax, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, synthetic wax, Cera Microcristallina, a C20-40 alkyl stearate and mixtures thereof.

[0106] More preferably, the wax is chosen from polyethylene wax, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, synthetic wax, Cera Microcristallina, and mixtures thereof.

[0107] Advantageously, the wax is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils)

[0108] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more oils.

[0109] As used herein, "oil" means a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not a solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics may be used alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0110] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as an ester oil or a fatty alcohol; or a mixture thereof.

[0111] The oil may be a vegetable oil or a synthetic oil.

[0112] Ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0113] Esters according to this variant can also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0114] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, isostearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and ara-chidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.

[0115] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, di-caprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate, isodecyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.

[0116] Esters of dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in Ci-C22, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar alcohols dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy in C4-C26 may also be used.

[0117] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; trii-socetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.

[0118] Examples of ester oils may also be cited as triglycerides, for example, caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) (or caprylic / capric triglyceride), and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0119] Preferably, the ester oils are selected from diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, propionate of myristyle, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetraisostearate, the 2-Ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0120] By way of examples of silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of linear organopolysiloxanes optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms such as methylpolysiloxane, caprylyl methylpolysiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, do-decamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0121] Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0122] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and even more particularly from: i. cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7, and preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms; and ii. linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 106 m2 / s at 25 °C.

[0123] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups.

[0124] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company.

[0125] Among silicones containing aryl groups, we can mention polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.

[0126] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from: • Lower linear or branched alkanes, optionally cyclic, in the C6-C16 range. Examples that can be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.

[0127] Preferably, hydrocarbon oils are selected from linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0128] In some preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention further comprises at least one oil selected from silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, ester oils and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from organopolysiloxanes optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms such as methylpolysiloxane, caprylyl methyl-polysiloxane, and dimethylpolysiloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, esters of saturated, linear or branched C6-C10 aliphatic monoacids and of saturated, linear or branched C10-C20 aliphatic monoalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 20, and mixtures thereof; most preferentially chosen from dimethicone, hydrogenated polyisobutene, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate, and mixtures thereof.

[0129] Advantageously, the oil is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 5% by weight to 70% by weight, preferably from 10% by weight to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Other ingredients

[0130] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more other ingredients commonly used in the field concerned.

[0131] For example, the composition according to the present invention may further comprise other ingredients selected from fillers in addition to hydrophobic silicas, antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, antiseptics, additional cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, and mixtures thereof.

[0132] It is a routine operation for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the other ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention so that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially, negatively affected by the envisaged addition.

[0133] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention proposes a composition including, in relation to the total weight of the composition: a. 1% by weight to 5% by weight of silicone elastomer resin selected from vinyldimethyl / trimethylsiloxysilicate stearyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, dimethicone / trimethylsiloxysilicate vinyl crosslinked polymer, and mixtures thereof; b. 0.3% to 2% by weight of silica silylate having an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit weight ranging from 600 to 800 m² / g; and c. from 3% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one C2-C6 carboxylic acid ester of sucrose.

[0134] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is anhydrous.

[0135] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means that the composition according to the present invention contains less than 2% by weight and preferably less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Where appropriate, these small amounts of water may be supplied by ingredients of the composition that contain it in residual quantities but are not deliberately supplied. pharmaceutical form and use

[0136] The anhydrous composition of the present invention is suitable for use as a skin care and / or makeup product. More particularly, the composition of the present invention is in the form of lipstick, and so on.

[0137] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared in a conventional manner.

[0138] According to the second aspect, the present invention proposes a cosmetic process for the care / makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application of the composition as described above on the keratinous materials.

[0139] In particular, keratinous material is the skin, especially the lips. Examples

[0140] The following examples are given by way of non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

[0141] The main raw materials used, trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 2. INCI name Trade name Supplier SUCROSE ACETATE ISO- BUTYRATE EASTMAN SUSTANE™ SAIB (SUCROSE ACETATE ISO-BUTYRATE) FOOD GRADE KOSHER EASTMAN CHEMICAL SILICA SILYLATE DOWSIL™ VM-2270 AEROGEL FINE PARTICLES DOW DIMETHICONE (and) DI- METHICONE / VINYLTRIMETHYL SILOXYSILICATE CROSSPOLYMER BELSIL® REG 1102 WACKER PARAFFIN (and) MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX (and) SYNTHETIC WAX / PARAFFIN (and) CERA MICROCRISTALLINA (and) SYNTHETIC WAX PARACERA™ 30540 PARAMELT HYDROGENATED POLY-ISOBUTENE PARLEAM® NOF CORPORATION POLYETHYLENE PERFORMALENE™ 500-L POLY ETHYLENE NUCERA SOLUTIONS DIMETHICONE BELSIL® DM 100 WACKER TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE BELSIL® TMS 803 WACKER DIMETHICONE (and) DIME-THICONOL CROSSPOLYMER DOWSIL™ EL-9241 DM SILICONE ELASTOMER BLEND DOW

[0143] Inventive Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3

[0144] Lipsticks according to the present invention (Ef.) 1 to 3 and lipsticks com Comparatives (EC) 1 to 3 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 3 (contents are expressed as percentages by weight of each substance, unless otherwise indicated): INCI US El. 1 EC. 1 El. 2 EC. 2 EL 3 EC. 3 TITANIUM DIOXIDE 4,00 4,00 4,00 4,00 4,00 4,00 IRON OXIDES 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 OCTYLDODECYL NEO- PENTANOATE 7,08 7,08 7,08 7,08 7,08 11,58 STEARYL HEPTANOATE (and) STEARYL CAPRYLATE 4,06 4,06 4,06 4,06 4,06 4,06 PARAFFIN (and) MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX (and) SYNTHETIC WAX / PARAFFIN (and) CERA MICRO-CRISTALLINA (and) SYNTHETIC WAX 1,00 1,00 1,00 1,00 1,00 1,00 KAOLIN 1,25 1,25 1,25 1,25 1,25 1,25 SILICA 6,00 6,00 6,00 6,00 6,00 6,00 LAUROYL LYSINE 0,50 1,50 1,00 1,00 1,00 1,00 SILICA SILYLATE 1,00 0 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 HYDROGENATED POLY-ISOBUTENE Qs pour 100 Qs pour 100 Qs pour 100 Qs pour 100 Qs pour 100 Qs pour 100 POLYETHYLENE 11,00 11,00 11,00 11,00 11,00 11,00 SUCROSE ACETATE ISO- BUTYRATE 4,50 4,50 4,50 4,50 4,50 0,00 DIMETHICONE 7,00 7,00 7,00 7,00 7,00 7,00 DIMETHICONE (and) DL METHICONE / VINYLTRIMETHY L-SILOXYSILICATE CROSSPOLYMER* 10,00 10,00 25,20 0 10,00 10,00 TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 DIMETHICONE (and) DIME-THICONOL CROSSPOLYMER** 15.20 15.20 0.00 25.2 15.20 15.20,

[0146] DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE / VINYLTRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE CROSSPOLYMER*: -16% by weight of DIMETHICONE / VINYLTRIME-THYLSILO-XYSILICATE CROSSPOLYMER in ~84% by weight of DL METHICONE.

[0147] DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER**: -16-17% by weight of DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER in -83 to 84% of DIMETHICONE.

[0148] The lipsticks in inventive examples 1 to 3 are compositions according to the present invention.

[0149] The lipstick in comparative example 1 does not include at least one hydrophobic silica.

[0150] The lipstick in comparative example 2 does not include at least one silicone elastomer resin.

[0151] The lipstick in comparative example 3 does not include at least one sugar ester selected from Ci-C30 monoesters and sugar polyesters.

[0152] Preparation procedure:

[0153] The detailed procedure for preparing the above lipsticks is as follows: i. Mix all ingredients under 95-100 °C with stirring to obtain a homogeneous mixture; ii. Pour the homogeneous mixture into a lipstick mold at 98°C, leave the mixture in the mold below 25°C until solidified; and iii. unmold the lipsticks obtained from the lipstick mold.

[0154] Evaluation:

[0155] An evaluation of the hardness of the lipsticks, the matte effect, the uniformity of color, and the non-greasy and non-drying sensation delivered by the lipsticks was carried out.

[0156] Hardness was measured according to the method described above.

[0157] The matte effect was evaluated by 6 experts as follows.

[0158] First, the lipsticks of the inventive examples and the comparative examples were repeatedly applied, respectively, three times to the same area of ​​the lips using the same force; the area was illuminated with a D65 light and the level of light reflection (gloss) was checked after 5 minutes of application. Scores were then given as follows.

[0159] 4.1 to 5.0: low gloss;

[0160] 3.1 to 4.0: low to medium brightness;

[0161] 3: medium gloss;

[0162] 2.0 to 2.9: medium to high gloss;

[0163] 1.0 to 1.9: high gloss.

[0164] Colour uniformity was assessed by 6 experts as follows.

[0165] First, the compositions according to the inventive and comparative examples were repeatedly applied to the left side of the forearm using the same force to draw a 4 cm line; then the line was spread from the left side to the right side approximately 8 times to fill the 4 cm x 4 cm area with the fingers. Next, the uniformity of the area (the presence or absence of aggregation or uneven color distribution) was observed.

[0166] Scores were then given as follows.

[0167] 4.1 to 5.0: very good;

[0168] 3.1 to 4.0: overall good;

[0169] 3: acceptable;

[0170] 2.0 to 2.9: slightly mediocre and unacceptable;

[0171] 1.0 to 1.9: mediocre, unacceptable.

[0172] The non-greasy feel was evaluated by 6 experts using the following steps:

[0173] First, repeatedly apply the compositions according to the examples inventive and comparative examples, respectively, three times on the same area of ​​the lips using the same force; wait 3 minutes and check the oily sensation of the lips.

[0174] Then, comments or scores were given as follows.

[0175] 4.1 to 5.0: very good, not greasy;

[0176] 3.1 to 4.0: slightly oily;

[0177] 3: slightly greasy, acceptable;

[0178] 2.0 to 2.9: quite fat and unacceptable;

[0179] 1.0 to 1.9: very fat, unacceptable.

[0180] The non-dry sensation was evaluated by 6 experts using the following steps:

[0181] First, repeatedly apply the compositions according to the invention and the comparative examples, respectively, three times on the same area of ​​the lips using the same force; wait 3 hours and check the hydration status of the lips.

[0182] Next, comments or scores were given as follows.

[0183] 4.1 to 5.0: very good;

[0184] 3.1 to 4.0: overall good;

[0185] 3: acceptable;

[0186] 2.0 to 2.9: slightly mediocre and unacceptable;

[0187] 1.0 to 1.9: mediocre, unacceptable.

[0188] The hardness, average scores on the matte effect, color uniformity, non-greasy and non-drying feel offered by the lipsticks of the inventive examples and comparative examples have been summarized in Table 4.

[0189] [Tables4] Attributes El. 1 EC. 1 El. 2 EC. 2 El. 3 EC. 3 Hardness (Nm1) 119.4 102.1 106.7 105.5 116.4 99.7 Matte finish 4.7 2.1 4.4 4.3 4.5 4.0 Color uniformity 4.3 4.1 4.4 2.3 4.2 3.3 Non-greasy feel 4.5 2.2 4.2 4.3 4.4 2.2 Non-drying feel 3.4 3.5 4.4 4.1 4.3 2.6

[0190] It can be seen that the compositions of inventive examples 1 to 3 have demonstrated a good combination of appropriate hardness, matte effect, color uniformity, non-greasy and non-drying feel upon application, whereas the compositions of comparative examples 1 to 3 are not good in terms of at least one of: hardness, matte effect, color uniformity, non-greasy feel and non-drying feel.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials comprising: a) at least one silicone elastomer resin; b) at least one hydrophobic silica; and c) at least one sugar ester selected from Ci-C30 monoesters and sugar polyesters.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicone elastomer resin comprises at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate group, preferably the silicone elastomer resin is selected from vinyldimethyl / trimethylsiloxysilicate stearyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, dimethicone / trimethylsiloxysilicate vinyl crosslinked polymer and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the hydrophobic silica is selected from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) of 500 to 1500 m2 / g and a volume mean diameter of 1 to 1500 pm, preferably from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) of 600 to 800 m2 / g and a volume mean diameter (D[0,5]) of 5 to 15 pm.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the sugar ester is selected from C2-C6 carboxylic acid esters of sugars, preferably selected from C2-C6 carboxylic acid esters of sucrose, more preferably selected from mixed esters of acetic acid, isobutyric acid and sucrose.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, further comprising one or more pigments, preferably selected from metal oxide pigments, organic pigments and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from RED 7, YELLOW 6, iron oxides, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof.

6. Composition according to claim 5, wherein the pigment is present in an amount from 5% by weight to 14% by weight, preferably from 6% by weight to 13% by weight, more preferably from 6% by weight to 12% by weight, even more preferably from 6% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably still from 6.5% by weight to 9% by weight, most preferably from 6.5% by weight to 8% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising one or more waxes, preferably selected from polyethylene wax, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, synthetic wax, Cera Microcristallina, a C20-40 alkyl stearate and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising one or more oils, preferably selected from silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, ester oils and mixtures thereof; more preferably selected from organopolysiloxanes optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, hydrogenated polyisobutene, esters of saturated, linear or branched C6-C10 aliphatic monoacids and of saturated, linear or branched C10-C20 aliphatic monoalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 20, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from dimethicone, hydrogenated polyisobutene, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate and mixtures thereof;present in a quantity ranging from 5% by weight to 70% by weight, preferably from 10% by weight to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, which is anhydrous.

10. Non-therapeutic process of care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application of the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9 on keratinous materials.