SKINCARE AND / OR MAKEUP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIAL

Abstract

SKINCARE AND / OR MAKEUP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIAL The present invention relates to a composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous material, comprising: a) at least one butter of vegetable origin with a melting point ranging from 25°C to 50°C; and b) at least one acylated derivative of a hydroxylated ester. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: SKINCARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIAL technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition made of keratinous material, and in particular to a skincare composition. PRIOR TECHNOLOGY

[0002] There are a variety of skin conditions that benefit from skin care compositions that can be applied and left on the skin. These conditions include many unpleasant sensations, for example, dryness and tightness, including the feeling that the skin is not soft enough.

[0003] Currently, manufacturers are committed to solving the aforementioned problems and are trying to bring benefits to users' skin. The manufacturer always intends to provide a product with functional and sensory properties that appeal to users. Products available on the market for application to the skin have excellent properties and, in general, their effectiveness is achieved while offering the user comfortable and pleasant sensory experiences. Many ingredients commonly associated with a good skin feel are formulated in these products. However, current products often do not provide a sufficiently soft feel and / or give uncomfortable sticky and / or squeaky sensations.

[0004] Therefore, there is a need for a cosmetic product, for example, a skin care composition, which can provide pleasant sensations, including sensations of softness / sticky texture and / or enhanced squeaking after application. Summary of the invention

[0005] The inventors have found that such a need can be met by the composition according to the present invention.

[0006] According to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous material comprising: a. at least one butter of vegetable origin with a melting point ranging from 25°C to 50°C; and b. at least one acylated derivative of a hydroxylated ester.

[0007] By means of the specific combination of at least one vegetable butter with a melting point ranging from 25°C to 50°C and at least one acylated derivative of a hydroxylated ester, the composition comprising the latter can provide pleasant sensations, including sensations of softness / sticky texture and / or improved squeaking after application.

[0008] According to a second aspect, the present invention proposes a process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous material, in particular skin, comprising a. the application of the composition according to the first aspect to the keratinous material, and optionally b. massaging the keratinous material for 2 to 60 seconds.

[0009] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even clearer upon reading the detailed description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0010] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0011] The articles “a” and “an,” as used herein, mean one or more when applied to any particular feature in embodiments of the present invention described in the specification and the claims. The use of “a” and “an” does not limit the meaning to a single feature unless such a limitation is specifically stated. Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in this description is equivalent to the expression “one or more.”

[0012] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no material features or even any features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (such as "essentially consisting of" or "consisting of"). In the case of "essentially consisting of," any additional composition, material, and / or component that materially affects the fundamental and innovative features is excluded from such an embodiment, but any composition, material, and / or component that does not materially affect the fundamental and innovative features may be included in the embodiment.

[0013] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and other substances used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Accordingly, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein shall be understood as having been modified by the term "approximately". Accordingly, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein The values ​​given in this document are approximate and may be adjusted as required to achieve the desired performance. The term "approximately" when referring to a specific value is intended to denote a range within ±5% of the value, for example: ±3%, ±2%, ±1%, and ±0.5% of the value.

[0014] As used herein, the expression "keratinous material" refers to the skin and lips. "Skin" includes all skin parts of the body, including the scalp. Preferably, keratinous material refers to the skin. Vegetable butter

[0015] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one butter of vegetable origin with a melting point ranging from 25 °C to 50 °C.

[0016] According to the present invention, the vegetable butter preferably has a melting point ranging from 28°C to 45°C, and more preferably from 30°C to 40°C.

[0017] Hereafter, the term "butter" refers to a fatty compound which undergoes a reversible solid / liquid change of state, and which includes, at a temperature of 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0018] According to the present invention, the particular vegetable butter can be those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry.

[0019] Examples include shorea butter, illipe butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), tucuma butter, coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), babassu butter, and jojoba butter (Simmondsia Chinensis butter).

[0020] Examples of vegetable butter include, but are not limited to, mango butter, such as that sold under the reference TRIVENT MANGO BUTTER by ALZO, jojoba butter, such as that sold under the name ISO JOJOBA™ 50 by DESERT WHALE (VANTAGE SPEC. CHEM.), and murumuru butter, such as that sold under the reference Rain Forest RF3710 by BERACA INGR. NATURAIS.

[0021] Furthermore, examples of vegetable butter include, but are not limited to, fats having a hydrocarbon chain distribution of C12:30 to 55% / C14:10 to 40% in which the fat has two hydrocarbon chains, one hydrocarbon chain having 12 carbons and being present in the fat in an amount of 30 to 55%, and a second hydrocarbon chain having 14 carbons and being present in the fat from 10 to 40%, for example murumuru seed butter.

[0022] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises murumuru butter. Astrocaryum murumuru is a palm plant found, for example, in Brazil; murumuru butter is extracted from the seeds of the plant.

[0023] Advantageously, the vegetable butter is present in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Acyl derivative of a hydroxyl ester

[0024] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one acylated derivative of a hydroxylated ester.

[0025] According to the present invention, preferably, the acylated derivative of a hydroxylated ester is an ester derivative which is formed from a (mono or poly) carboxylic acid bearing at least one OH function and one or more (mono or poly) alcohols, in which said at least one OH function is acylated to form at least one other ester group.

[0026] The carboxylic acid has one or more OH groups, that is to say it is mono-hydroxylated or polyhydroxylated, and preferably monohydroxylated.

[0027] The carboxylic acid bearing at least one OH function is chosen from monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated (mono or poly)carboxylic acids, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 15 carbon atoms and more preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0028] Preferably, the carboxylic acid bearing at least one OH function is chosen from among monohydroxylated saturated dicarboxylic acids or tricarboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, chosen in particular from monohydroxylated saturated tricarboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0029] The alcohol is selected from linear or branched (mono or poly) alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 15 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. Preferably, the alcohol is selected from linear saturated monoalcohols comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0030] Preferably, the acylated derivative of the hydroxylated ester is chosen from acetylated derivatives, propionyl derivatives and butyrylated derivatives, and is more preferably chosen from acetylated derivatives.

[0031] Examples of carboxylic acids bearing at least one OH group include, but are not limited to, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, gluconic acid, malic acid, ricinoleic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid. Preferred examples of carboxylic acids bearing at least one OH group include citric acid and malic acid, and in particular citric acid.

[0032] Examples of alcohol include, but are not limited to, methanol, ethanol, the Propanol, isopropanol, butanol, hexanol, ethylhexanol, decanol, and isodecanol are common examples of alcohols.

[0033] According to the present invention, examples of the acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester include, but are not limited to, acetyltributyl citrate, acetyltriethyl citrate, acetyltriethylhexyl citrate, acetyltrihexyl citrate and butyroyl trihexyl citrate, and preferably acetyltributyl citrate.

[0034] A particularly preferred example of the acylated derivative of a hydroxylated ester is that sold under the name "CITROFLEX" by the company VERTELLUS and in particular acetyl tributyl citrate ("CITROFLEX-A4").

[0035] Advantageously, the acylated derivative of the hydroxylated ester is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.4% by weight to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrophilic gelling agent

[0036] According to the present invention, the composition may include at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

[0037] In the following, the expression "hydrophilic gelling agent" refers to a compound that is capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.

[0038] Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from acrylate-based polymers, celluloses or their derivatives, gums or their derivatives, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from acrylate-based polymers.

[0039] In the present invention, preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from Cio-C3O acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates / Cio-3O Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), such as the products sold under the trade names Pemulen™ TRI, Pemulen™ TR2, Pemulen™ EZ-4U, Carbopol® 1382, Carbopol® EDT 2020, Carbopol® Ultrez 20 Polymer and Carbopol® Ultrez 21 Polymer by the Lubrizol company.

[0040] Advantageously, the hydrophilic gelling agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.15% by weight to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Phospholipid surfactant

[0041] According to the present invention, the composition may include at least one phospholipid surfactant.

[0042] As used in this application, the term “phospholipid” means a A phospholipid is a fraction of glycerol to which two fatty acids are esterified at the carbon-1 and carbon-2 positions, and a phosphate group is esterified at the carbon-3 position. The fatty acid groups typically esterified to glycerol can be saturated or unsaturated (Cl2-C2O) fatty acids and are preferentially selected from the group consisting of palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, and arachidonic acids. The phosphate group may be substituted or unsubstituted. In its unsubstituted form, the phospholipid is phosphatidic acid. Substituents for the phosphate group are well known to those skilled in the art and may include nitrogen-containing alcohols (e.g., ethanolamine, serine, and choline) and inositol (hexahydroxycyclohexane). A preferred botanically sourced phospholipid is lecithin derived from soybean seeds.Lecithin can be hydrogenated, so that the unsaturated fatty acids in lecithin are converted into saturated fatty acids by hydrogenation.

[0043] According to the present invention, a particularly preferred example of the phospholipid surfactant is hydrogenated lecithin.

[0044] Advantageously, the phospholipid surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrolyzed protein

[0045] According to the present invention, the composition may comprise at least one hydrolyzed protein.

[0046] The hydrolyzed protein may be fully hydrolyzed or partially hydrolyzed.

[0047] Examples of hydrolyzed proteins include, but are not limited to, hydrolyzed gelatin, hydrolyzed collagen, hydrolyzed casein, hydrolyzed whey protein, hydrolyzed milk protein, hydrolyzed soy protein, hydrolyzed egg protein, hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed maize protein, hydrolyzed elastin, hydrolyzed potato protein, hydrolyzed rice protein, hydrolyzed silk, hydrolyzed yeast protein, and hydrolyzed vegetable protein.

[0048] According to the present invention, a particularly preferred example of hydrolyzed protein is hydrolyzed soy protein.

[0049] Advantageously, the hydrolyzed protein is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous solvent

[0050] The composition of the present invention may include at least one aqueous solvent.

[0051] Preferably, the aqueous solvent of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for example C2-C8 polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

[0052] The term "polyol" should be understood as designating any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be cited include glycols, for example butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (i.e. glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.

[0053] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present application further comprises at least one C2-C8 polyol selected from butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin and polyethylene glycols.

[0054] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises both water and a C2-C8 polyol, preferably glycerol (i.e. glycerin).

[0055] Advantageously, the C2-C8 polyol is present in an amount ranging from 0.15% by weight to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 2% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] Advantageously, water is present in an amount ranging from 20% to 80% by weight, preferably from 30% to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the foaming composition. Additional ingredients

[0057] The composition according to the present invention may include one or more additional ingredients, chosen from those classically used in skin care products.

[0058] The composition according to the present invention may include any of the following additives: pH correcting agents, biological extracts, antibacterial agents, perfumes and chelating agents.

[0059] A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and quantity of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not negatively affected by the additional ingredients. Composition

[0060] According to the present invention, the composition comprising the above components may be in the form of a lotion, an emulsion, a paste or a cream.

[0061] Preferably, the composition comprising the above components is in the form of an emulsion, for example, a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, an oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O) emulsion, or a water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) emulsion. More preferably, the composition comprising the above components is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion.

[0062] In one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention does not comprise silicone or silicone oil. Consequently, said composition can avoid the undesirable effects of silicones and silicone oils, for example, skin dryness and irritation, and further negatively affect the pleasant sensation.

[0063] In addition, the composition according to the present invention can provide enhanced sensations of skin softness / sticky texture and / or squeaking after application.

[0064] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous material, comprising: a. a butter of vegetable origin selected from mango butter, Murumuru butter, jojoba butter and combinations thereof, in particular Murumuru butter; and b. of acetyl tributyl citrate.

[0065] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous material, comprising: a. a butter of vegetable origin selected from mango butter, Murumuru butter, jojoba butter and their combinations, in particular Murumuru butter, b. acetyl tributyl citrate, c. hydrogenated lecithin, and d. a hydrolyzed protein.

[0066] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous material, in particular a skincare composition, comprising: a. a quantity of 0.2% by weight to 1% by weight of a vegetable butter chosen from mango butter, Murumuru butter, jojoba butter and their combinations, including Murumuru butter, relative to the total weight of the composition, b. an amount of 0.4% by weight to 12% by weight of acetyl tributyl citrate, relative to the total weight of the composition, c. an amount of 0.5% by weight to 2% by weight of a hydrogenated lecithin, relative to the total weight of the composition, and d. an amount of 1% by weight to 5% by weight of a hydrolyzed protein, relative to the total weight of the composition. Process and use

[0067] The composition according to the present invention is used in a process of care and / or makeup of keratinous material, such as skin, in particular the face, by application on the keratinous material.

[0068] It has been observed that the composition according to the present invention can provide an improved sensation of skin softness / sticky texture and / or squeakiness after application.

[0069] The composition according to the invention can be applied by any means allowing uniform distribution, in particular using a finger or palm.

[0070] According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous material, in particular of the skin, comprising the application of the above composition to the keratinous material, and optionally the massage of the skin for 2 to 60 seconds.

[0071] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples described below, which are given by way of non-limiting illustrations. EXAMPLES

[0072] The main raw materials used, trade names and their supplier are listed in Table 1.

[0073] [Tables 1] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier ASTROCARYUM MURUMURU RAIN FOREST SEED BUTTER 03710 BERACA INGR. NATURAIS MANGIFERA INDICA (MANGO) SEED BUTTER TRIVENT MANGO BUTTER ALZO SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA) BUTTER ISO JOJOBA™ 50 DESERT WHALE (VANTAGE SPEC. CHEM.) ACETYL TRIBUTYL CITRATE CITROFLEX™ A4 VERTELLUS HYDROLYZED SOY PROTEIN A00092 PHYTOKINE™ HYDROLITE5 BASF BEAUTY CARE SOLUTION

[0074] Comparative Examples 1 to 4 and Inventive Examples 1 to 4

[0075] The compositions according to comparative examples (EC.) 1 to 4 and inventive examples (Ex.) 1 to 4 comprising the ingredients shown in Table 2 were prepared, all quantities being expressed as percentages by weight of active materials relative to the total weight of each composition.

[0076] [Tables2] % by weight Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 EC. 1 EC. 2 CE. 3 EC. 4 Murumuru Butter 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Mangifera Indica (Mango) Butter 0.5 Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Butter 0.5 Acetyl Tributyl Citrate 1.2 10 1.2 1.2 - - - - Trioctyl Dodecyl Citrate - - - 10 - - Tributyl Citrate - - - - 10 - Triisostearyl Citrate - - - - - 10 Crosslinked Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Polymer 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Hydrogenated Lecithin 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 Hydrolyzed soy protein 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Glycerin 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Water QS QS QS QS QS QS QS QS Preparation process

[0077] The compositions were prepared from a process comprising the following steps, taking the composition of Inventive Example 1 as an example: 1. Mix the Murumuru butter and acetyl tributyl citrate under stirring at room temperature to form Premix 1, and continue stirring Premix 1 until it is clear, 2. Mix the hydrogenated lecithin with water and glycerin under Stirring at a temperature of 60°C to form Premix 2, and continue stirring Premix 2 until homogeneous, then heat Premix 2 to a temperature of 75°C, 3. Heat Premix 1 from step 1) to a temperature of 75 °C, 4. Add Premix 1 from step 3) to Premix 2 from step 2) and Perform emulsification using VMI at 100 rpm for 10 minutes at a temperature of 75 °C to form Mixture 1, 5. Gently stir Mixture 1 and cool it to room temperature using a water bath, and 6. Add the C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer and hydrolyzed soy protein to Mixture 1 to form Mixture 2, and continue stirring Mixture 2 until it is clear to form the final composition. Composition evaluation

[0078] The compositions as prepared were evaluated in terms of softness, sticky texture and squeaking.

[0079] Five trained experts from a panel were invited to evaluate the compositions using a skin sensory test. For each composition, the five trained experts applied 0.2 g of the composition to the skin and assigned a score for evaluation. The final scores for softness, stickiness, and squeakiness were calculated as an average.

[0080] Softness means the ease of pushing the skin upwards with two fingers.

[0081] Procedure (gesture): Place the index and middle fingers on the lower part of the cheek and push the cheek upwards five times. The softness of the skin after application was assessed with a score from 1 (very uncomfortable, i.e. friction was felt) to 5 (very soft), and the final score was averaged and classified according to the following criteria.

[0082] Scores from 4.1 to 5.0: Excellent,

[0083] Scores from 3.1 to 4.0: Good,

[0084] Score of 3.0: Neither good nor bad,

[0085] Scores from 2.0 to 2.9: Poor,

[0086] Scores from 1.0 to 1.9: Very poor.

[0087] Sticky texture refers to the sensation of adhesion between the back of two fingers (index and middle) and the skin of the cheek.

[0088] Procedure (gesture): Evaluate the sticky texture between the back of the fingers and the cheek immediately after application. The stickier it was, the higher the score, and vice versa. The final score was averaged and classified according to the following criteria.

[0089] Scores from 4.1 to 5.0: Super sticky,

[0090] Scores of 3.1 to 4.0: very sticky,

[0091] Score of 3.0: Moderately sticky,

[0092] Scores of 2.0 to 2.9: Not very sticky,

[0093] Scores of 1.0 to 1.9: Non-sticky.

[0094] The squeaking refers to the intensity of squeaking friction (sensation of dragging) when touching the skin.

[0095] Procedure (gesture): Lightly move the backs of the fingers (index and middle) across the cheek (glide 1 to 2 times from bottom to top) and assess the viscous sensation immediately after application. The more viscous the sensation, the higher the score, and vice versa. The final score was averaged and classified according to the following criteria.

[0096] Scores from 4.1 to 5.0: Super squeaky,

[0097] Scores from 3.1 to 4.0: Very screechy,

[0098] Score of 3.0: Moderately squeaky,

[0099] Scores of 2.0 to 2.9: Not very impressive,

[0100] Scores from 1.0 to 1.9: Not squeaky.

[0101] The results have been summarized in Table 3.

[0102] [Tables3] Properties Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 Softness Score 4 5 3.2 3.1 2 2 1.5 1.5 Stickiness Texture Score 1 1 1 2 1 3 4 3.5 Squeakiness Score 2 1 2 2 2 4.5 3.5 5

[0103] According to the data in Table 3, it can be seen that only compositions comprising both a vegetable butter of the present invention and an acylated derivative of a hydroxylated ester of the present invention can obtain both a sweetness score of 3.1 or higher and a stickiness and / or squeakiness texture score of 2 or lower. In contrast, the composition of EC. 1 comprising only a vegetable butter obtains a sweetness score of 2, and the compositions of EC. 2 to 4 comprising a hydroxylated ester that is not an acylated derivative obtain a sweetness score of 2 or lower and a stickiness and / or squeakiness texture score of 3.5 or higher.

[0104] In this way, the compositions of the Inventive Examples, comprising both a vegetable butter of the present invention and an acylated derivative of a hydroxylated ester of the present invention, can obtain a higher sweetness score and / or a score of sticky texture and / or weaker squeaking than the compositions of the Comparative Examples, and it is thus demonstrated that the compositions of the present invention can provide a significant improvement in the sensations of softness and sticky texture and / or squeaking.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup of keratinous material, comprising: a) at least one butter of vegetable origin with a melting point of 25 °C to 50 °C; and b) at least one acylated derivative of a hydroxylated ester.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the vegetable butter has a melting point of 28°C to 45°C, and preferably of 30°C to 40°C.

3. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the vegetable butter is selected from mango butter, Murumuru butter, Jojoba butter and combinations thereof, and is in particular Murumuru butter.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester is an ester derivative which is formed from a (mono or poly)carboxylic acid bearing at least one OH function and one or more (mono or poly) alcohols, wherein said at least one OH function is acylated to form at least one other ester group.

5. Composition according to claim 4, wherein the carboxylic acid bearing at least one OH function is selected from monohydroxylated saturated dicarboxylic acids or tricarboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, selected in particular from monohydroxylated saturated tricarboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or the alcohol is selected from linear saturated monoalcohols comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or the acylated derivative of the hydroxylated ester is selected from acetylated derivatives, propionyl derivatives and butyl derivatives, and is preferably selected from acetylated derivatives.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the acylated hydroxyl ester derivative is selected from the group consisting of acetyltributyl citrate, acetyltriethyl citrate, acetyltriethylhexyl citrate, acetyltrihexyl citrate, butyroyltrihexyl citrate and mixtures thereof, and is preferably acetyltributyl citrate.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, which is chosen from acrylate-based polymers, celluloses or their derivatives, gums or their derivatives, and mixtures thereof, and is preferably chosen from acrylate-based polymers, and is in particular the crosslinked acrylate / alkyl acrylate polymer in Cimo-

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one phospholipid surfactant, preferably selected from hydrogenated lecithin.

9. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one hydrolyzed protein, preferably selected from hydrolyzed gelatin, hydrolyzed collagen, hydrolyzed casein, hydrolyzed whey protein, hydrolyzed milk protein, hydrolyzed soy protein, hydrolyzed egg protein, hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed maize protein, hydrolyzed elastin, hydrolyzed potato protein, hydrolyzed rice protein, hydrolyzed silk, hydrolyzed yeast protein, hydrolyzed vegetable protein, and mixtures thereof, and in particular hydrolyzed soy protein, wherein the hydrolyzed protein is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight. weight at 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous material, in particular of the skin, comprising a) the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on the keratinous material, and optionally b) the massage of the keratinous material for 2 seconds to 60 seconds.