Cosmetic composition and cosmetic treatment, particularly for black and mixed-race skin

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least shikimic acid or one of its cosmetically equivalent derivatives, vitamin C or one of its cosmetically equivalent derivatives, an alpha-glucan-oligosaccharide and hyaluronic acid or one of its cosmetically equivalent derivatives, as well as a cosmetic treatment method for black or mixed-race skin using such a composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition and cosmetic treatment, particularly for black and mixed-race skin

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition combining at least four active ingredients, the combination of which can be used to form cosmetic products in various forms for the care of the skin, face, and body. The invention also relates to a cosmetic skin treatment using such a composition.

[0002] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic compositions described below are intended for the care of black skin, as well as for the care of mixed-race skin.

[0003] The skin consists of three layers: the epidermis on the surface, the dermis, and the hypodermis, which is the deepest layer. The epidermis itself comprises four layers: the stratum corneum, the outermost layer; the stratum granulosum; the stratum spinosum (or Malpighian layer); and the stratum basale, which is in contact with the dermis. The epidermis is the site of keratinocyte renewal, where these cells transform as they move from the stratum basale to the stratum corneum. The stratum basale contains melanocytes; these produce melanin, which enters the keratinocytes, either spontaneously in darker skin tones or in response to stimulation by sunlight in lighter skin tones. The intensity of pigmentation in black and mixed-race skin protects it against UV radiation and thus against skin cancer, although this protection is not complete, as a certain proportion of UV radiation reaches the deeper layers of the epidermis.These skin types also have a denser stratum corneum and a thicker dermis, facilitating cell renewal, which makes them less susceptible to skin aging. However, in order to ensure perspiration and thus a decrease in body temperature in hot climates, this skin becomes extremely dehydrated and is consequently much more prone to dryness, even in dry, temperate climates. Furthermore, dark and mixed-race skin is particularly affected by the appearance of unsightly brown spots, resulting from an overproduction of melanin triggered by various factors such as insect bites or irritation.

[0004] Black and mixed-race skin has specific needs that conventional cosmetic compositions do not address comprehensively. These compositions primarily aim to hydrate the skin or lighten dark spots, but do not take into account the requirements of black and mixed-race skin as a whole.

[0005] This is the objective that the present invention aims to achieve by providing a composition cosmetics dedicated to black and mixed-race skin, in that it allows, through the combined action of four active ingredients, to address all their problems while taking into account all their physiological specificities.

[0006] Thus, an object of the invention lies in a cosmetic composition comprising an active base of at least four ingredients. A composition of the invention comprises at least shikimic acid or one of its cosmetically equivalent derivatives, vitamin C or one of its cosmetically equivalent derivatives, an alpha-glucan-oligosaccharide, and hyaluronic acid or one of its cosmetically equivalent derivatives.

[0007] Unexpectedly, it was observed that the combination of these four compounds made it possible to relieve the tightness of dry skin resulting in particular from dehydration, while improving its status from dehydrated to less dehydrated by regular application, but also to reduce hyperpigmentation spots without danger or irritation of the skin.

[0008] A cosmetically equivalent derivative of shikimic acid is understood to be a cosmetically acceptable compound which, in a composition of the invention, possesses the same properties as shikimic acid, although these properties may be quantitatively lower or higher. Its derivatives are notably selected from its mineral and organic salts. It may be derived from a plant such as star anise.

[0009] A cosmetically equivalent derivative of vitamin C or ascorbic acid is understood to be a cosmetically acceptable compound which, in a composition of the invention, possesses the same properties as vitamin C, although these properties may be quantitatively lower or higher. Since vitamin C is unstable, these derivatives essentially consist of protected forms of vitamin C. Such derivatives are notably selected from mineral salts of ascorbic acid, such as metallic salts, for example, calcium, magnesium, and sodium salts; mineral ester salts of ascorbic acid, such as metallic salts of the phosphoric acid ester of ascorbic acid, for example, sodium and magnesium salts; organic esters of ascorbic acid, for example, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (or tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate); and ascorbyl glucoside. 3-O-ethyl ascorbate.

[0010] By cosmetically equivalent derivative of hyaluronic acid, we mean the mineral salts of hyaluronic acid, in particular metallic salts such as sodium salts, and the esters of hyaluronic acid such as hyaluronic acid acetate.

[0011] Alpha-glucan-oligosaccharide or gluco-oligosaccharide is defined as a glucose oligomer having from 2 to 20 glucose units, preferably from 2 to 10 glucose units, said units being linked together by a glucosidic bond of the alpha-(l-6) and / or alpha-(l-2) type. It is commercially available, for example, under the brand name Bioecolia®. It is a prebiotic.

[0012] For each of the aforementioned ingredients, a composition of the invention may comprise a mixture of at least two, or even more, of said ingredient and one of its derivatives, or derivatives.

[0013] In this text, the contents of the ingredients are expressed as a percentage by mass of said ingredients relative to the mass of the final composition (% w / w). The values ​​indicated take into account each of the ingredients as well as their replacement by a derivative as defined above.

[0014] According to variants of the invention, whether combined with each other or not, the contents of each of the aforementioned ingredients are as follows:

[0015] the content of shikimic acid or its derivative ranges from 0.1 to 2% (w / w), preferably from 0.2 to 1.6% (w / w);

[0016] the content of vitamin C or its derivative ranges from 0.05 to 2% (w / w), preferably from 0.08-1.6% (w / w);

[0017] the alpha-glucan-oligosaccharide content ranges from 0.05 to 1.5% (w / w), preferably from 0.08-1% (w / w);

[0018] the content of hyaluronic acid or its derivative ranges from 0.005 to 0.5% (w / w), preferably from 0.01-0.3% (w / w).

[0019] These concentrations were determined as a compromise between efficacy and stability of the composition. Indeed, these compositions are rich in active ingredients and their formulation can be complex.

[0020] The combination of the four aforementioned ingredients constitutes an active base for cosmetic compositions that can be formulated in different preparations, and in particular modes of the invention, they are chosen from a serum, a cream and a milk.

[0021] Advantageously, it is a serum and comprises 0.5-1.5% (w / w) of shikimic acid, 0.5-1.5% (w / w) of ascorbyl glucoside, 0.1-0.6% (w / w) of an alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, and 0.01-0.1% (w / w) of a sodium salt of hyaluronic acid. For practicality, this serum is preferably in gel form and, for this purpose, comprises a gelling agent, for example, xanthan gum.

[0022] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition is a cream and it comprises 0.5-1.5% (w / w) of shikimic acid, 0.5-1.5% (w / w) of vitamin C, 0.1-0.6% (w / w) of an alpha-glucan-oligosaccharide and 0.01-0.1% (w / w) of a sodium salt of hyaluronic acid.

[0023] According to yet another embodiment of the invention, the composition is a milk and it comprises 0.3-1.5% (w / w) of shikimic acid, 0.5-1.5% (w / w) of vitamin C, 0.1-0.6% (w / w) of an alpha-glucan-oligosaccharide and 0.01-0.1% (w / w) of a sodium salt of hyaluronic acid.

[0024] A cream and a milk of the invention advantageously comprise a fat phase in a high content. In a cream, it can reach 25% (w / w) or even more, in a milk, it is on the order of 10% (w / w) which can go up to 20% (w / w) and beyond.

[0025] The various pharmaceutical forms of a composition of the invention as described above are supplemented by excipients and additives known to those skilled in the art. Examples of a serum, a cream, and a lotion of the invention are given by way of illustration later in the text.

[0026] Another object of the invention is a cosmetic treatment method for black or mixed-race skin, which includes a step of applying a cosmetic composition of the invention to the skin. To be effective and to take into account all the specific characteristics of this type of skin, the composition of the invention is applied regularly, preferably daily.

[0027] Example 1: Preparation of a serum according to the invention

[0028] The formulation of the illustrated serum is shown below:

[0029] Water 89.49

[0030] Glycerin 6.00

[0031] Xanthan gum 1.10

[0032] Ascorbyl glucoside 1.00

[0033] Sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate (Microcare® SB) 0.80

[0034] Shikimic acid 0.80

[0035] Alpha-glucan-oligosaccharide (Bioecolia®) 0.30

[0036] Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside, water, diisopropyl adipate and triethyl citrate (Natpure® Sol Crystal) 0.20

[0037] Citric acid 0.18

[0038] Perfume 0.10

[0039] Sodium hyaluronate 0.03

[0040] The serum thus prepared is in the form of a gel and is almost transparent.

[0041] Example 2: Preparation of a face cream according to the invention

[0042] The formulation of the illustrated face cream is indicated below:

[0043] Water 65.82

[0044] Refined coconut oil 6.00

[0045] Shea butter (Lipex® Shea) 6.00

[0046] Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (Myritol 318) 5.00

[0047] Coco-Caprylate / Caprate (Cetiol LC) 4,00

[0048] Cetearyl Alcohol & Cetearyl Glucoside (Montanov 68) 3,70

[0049] Huile d’olive hydrogénée 2,00

[0050] Myristyl Alcohol & myristyl Glucoside (Montanov 14) 1,20

[0051] Ascorbyle glucoside 1,00

[0052] Glycérine 1,00

[0053] Acide shikimique 1,00

[0054] Gomme de xanthane 1,10

[0055] Benzoate de sodium et sorbate de potassium (Euxyl K 712) 0,80

[0056] Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer 0,80

[0057] Mica & Titanium Dioxide & Tin Oxide 0,50

[0058] Alpha-glucan-oligosaccharide (Bioecolia®) 0,30

[0059] Soude 0,30

[0060] Parfum 0,25

[0061] Gomme de xanthane 0,20

[0062] Tocophérol 0,05

[0063] Phytate de sodium 0,05

[0064] Hyaluronate de sodium 0,03

[0065] Example 3: Preparation of a body lotion according to the invention

[0066] The formulation of the body lotion shown is indicated below:

[0067] Water 69.33

[0068] Glycerin 6.00

[0069] Refined coconut oil 5.00

[0070] Shea butter (Lipex® Shea) 5.00

[0071] Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (Myritol 318) 5.00

[0072] Cetearyl Alcohol & Cetearyl Glucoside (Montanov 68) 3.10

[0073] C10-18 Triglycerides (Lipocire A SG) 2.00

[0074] Myristyl Alcohol & myristyl Glucoside (Montanov 14) 1.20

[0075] Sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate (Euxyl K 712) 0.80

[0076] Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

[0077] (Sepinov EMT 10) 0.60

[0078] Perfume 0.50

[0079] Shikimic acid 0.40

[0080] Alpha-glucan-oligosaccharide (Bioecolia®) 0.30

[0081] Sodium hydroxide 0.24

[0082] Ascorbyl glucoside 0.20

[0083] Xanthan gum 0.20

[0084] Tocopherol 0.05

[0085] Sodium phytate 0.05

[0086] Sodium hyaluronate 0.03

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition comprising at least shikimic acid or one of its cosmetically equivalent derivatives, vitamin C or one of its cosmetically equivalent derivatives, an alpha-glucan-oligosaccharide, and hyaluronic acid or one of its cosmetically equivalent derivatives.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the content of shikimic acid or its derivative ranges from 0.1 to 2% (w / w).

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the content of vitamin C or its derivative ranges from 0.05 to 2% (w / w).

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-3, characterized in that the alpha-glucan-oligosaccharide content ranges from 0.05 to 1.5% (w / w).

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-4, characterized in that the content of hyaluronic acid or its derivative ranges from 0.005 to 0.5% (w / w).

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in a form selected from a serum, a cream and a milk.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which is a serum and which comprises 0.5-1.5% (w / w) of shikimic acid, 0.5-1.5% (w / w) of ascorbyl glucoside, 0.1-0.6% (w / w) of an alpha-glucan-oligosaccharide and 0.01-0.1% (w / w) of a sodium salt of hyaluronic acid.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, which is a cream and comprises 0.5-1.5% (w / w) of shikimic acid, 0.5-1.5% (w / w) of vitamin C, 0.1-0.6% (w / w) of an alpha-glucan-oligosaccharide and 0.01-0.1% (w / w) of a sodium salt of hyaluronic acid.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, which is a milk and comprises 0.3-1.5% (w / w) of shikimic acid, 0.5-1.5% (w / w) of vitamin C, 0.1-0.6% (w / w) of an alpha-glucan-oligosaccharide and 0.01-0.1% (w / w) of a sodium salt of hyaluronic acid.

10. A cosmetic treatment method for black or mixed-race skin, characterized in that it comprises a step of applying a cosmetic composition to the skin according to any one of claims 1 to 9.