Compositions and processes for dyeing and / or lightening keratinous fibers

A composition combining vegetable oil, solid fatty compounds, fatty acids, cationic polysaccharides, and oxidative dyes/agents addresses the environmental impact of hair dyeing, providing sustainable and effective dyeing/lightening with nourishing benefits.

FR3155427B3Active Publication Date: 2025-12-12LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2023012543
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Utility models
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2023-11-16
Publication Date
2025-12-12
Estimated Expiration
2033-11-16

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing hair dyeing and lightening compositions have a high carbon footprint and rely heavily on petrochemical compounds, lacking sustainability and environmental friendliness while providing good performance and hair revitalization.

Method used

A composition comprising at least 3% vegetable oil, at least 10% solid fatty compound, at least one fatty acid, a cationic polysaccharide, and an oxidative dye or alkaline agent, designed to dye and lighten keratinous fibers with improved environmental sustainability and performance.

Benefits of technology

The composition achieves effective dyeing and lightening with intense, uniform, and long-lasting color, while nourishing the hair and reducing the perceived greasiness, using renewable and natural ingredients.

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Abstract

COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS FOR DYEING AND / OR LIGHTENING KERATINOUS FIBERS This disclosure proposes a composition comprising at least 3% by weight of at least one vegetable oil, relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one fatty acid other than the vegetable oil; at least 10% by weight of at least one solid fatty compound other than the vegetable oil and the fatty acid, relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one cationic polysaccharide; and at least one oxidative dye and / or at least one alkaline agent. The composition demonstrates good lightening and bleaching effects while providing nourishment and conditioning of the hair. A method for applying said composition to dye and / or lighten keratinous fibers, such as hair, is also proposed. Figure for abstract: none
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Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS FOR DYEING AND / OR LIGHTENING KERA- FIBERS TINEUSES FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] This disclosure relates, in general, to cosmetic products, and in particular, to cosmetic compositions for hair. Specifically, this disclosure relates to compositions and processes for dyeing and / or lightening keratin fibers. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

[0002] Dyeing keratinous fibers, particularly human hair, is a well-known practice and commonly involves the use of coloring compositions, which include oxidation dye precursors, generally called oxidation bases and couplers. These dye precursors are colorless or weakly colored compounds. When combined with an oxidizing agent, they give rise, through a process of oxidative condensation, to colored compounds.

[0003] Generally, the oxidation dyeing process involves the application, on keratinous fibers, of oxidation bases or a mixture of oxidation bases and couplers, with an oxidizing agent, which is added at the time of use.

[0004] Generally, this process is carried out at an alkaline pH and produces dyeing and, at the same time, lightening of the fiber by decolorizing the melanin pigment in the hair. In this way, the dyes develop in the hair cortex and uniform color development is achieved.

[0005] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed taking environmental issues into account, is becoming a major objective in an effort to address global challenges.

[0006] It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions, preparation processes, and ingredients to address these environmental concerns. In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a lower carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a high naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin, and more specifically, materials of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds.

[0007] Thus, there is a need for dyeing / lightening products that have good working qualities in addition to good performance, particularly in terms of level of lightening, colour uptake and hair revitalisation, which are also environmentally friendly. Summary of the invention

[0008] In one aspect of this disclosure, a composition is proposed comprising at least 3% by weight of at least one vegetable oil, relative to a total weight of the composition; at least one fatty acid other than the vegetable oil; at least 10% by weight of at least one solid fatty compound other than the vegetable oil and the fatty acid, relative to a total weight of the composition; at least one cationic polysaccharide; and at least one oxidative dye and / or at least one alkaline agent.

[0009] In another aspect of this disclosure, a dyeing / lightening process for keratinous fibers is proposed, comprising the application of a composition comprising at least 3% by weight of at least one vegetable oil, relative to a total weight of the composition; at least one fatty acid other than the vegetable oil; at least 10% by weight of at least one solid fatty compound other than the vegetable oil and the fatty acid, relative to a total weight of the composition; at least one cationic polysaccharide; and at least one oxidative dye and / or at least one alkaline agent, to said keratinous fibers.

[0010] In another aspect of this disclosure, it is proposed to use a composition comprising at least 3% by weight of at least one vegetable oil, relative to a total weight of the composition; at least one fatty acid other than the vegetable oil; at least 10% by weight of at least one solid fatty compound other than the vegetable oil and the fatty acid, relative to a total weight of the composition; at least one cationic polysaccharide; and at least one oxidative dye and / or at least one alkaline agent for dyeing / lightening keratinous fibers, such as hair.

[0011] These features, aspects, and advantages, as well as others, of the present subject matter will be better understood with reference to the following description and the attached claims. This summary is provided to present a selection of concepts in a simplified form. This summary is not intended to identify key features or essential features of the claimed subject matter, nor to be used to limit the scope of the claimed subject matter. DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0012] The person skilled in the art will be aware that this disclosure is subject to variations and modifications other than those specifically described. It should be understood that this disclosure includes all such variations and modifications. The disclosure also includes all such steps, features, compositions, and compounds designated or indicated in this specification, individually or collectively, and any combination of one or more of these steps or features.

[0013] Definitions

[0014] For convenience, before describing this disclosure in more detail, certain terms used in the descriptive memorandum and examples are defined here. These definitions should be read in light of the rest of the disclosure and understood as by a person skilled in the art. The terms used herein have meanings recognized and known to persons skilled in the art; however, for convenience and completeness, specific terms and their meanings are set forth below.

[0015] The articles "un", "une", "la", "le" and "les" are used to designate one or more of one (i.e. at least one) grammatical object of the article.

[0016] The terms "understand" and "comprising" are used in an inclusive and open sense, meaning that additional elements may be included. It is not intended to be interpreted as "consisting solely of".

[0017] The expression "at least one" is used to mean one or more and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0018] Throughout this descriptive document, unless the context otherwise requires, the term "include", and variations such as "includes" and "including", shall be understood as implying the inclusion of any element or step or group of elements or steps stated, but not the exclusion of any other element or step or group of elements or steps.

[0019] The term "including" is used to mean "including, but not limited to". "Including" and "including, but not limited to" are used interchangeably.

[0020] The term “INCI” is an abbreviation for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to describe the ingredients of personal care products.

[0021] The term “CTFA” is an abbreviation for Cosmetic Toiletry and Fragrance Association, which publishes the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook as a reference for cosmetic ingredients.

[0022] All percentages, parts, and ratios are based on the total weight of the compositions in this disclosure, unless otherwise stated. Ratios, concentrations, quantities, and other numerical data may be presented here in a range format. It should be understood that this range format is used solely for convenience and conciseness and should be interpreted flexibly as including not only the numerical values ​​explicitly cited as the range limits, but also as including all individual numerical values ​​or subranges encompassed within that range as if each value numeric and subrange was explicitly cited. For example, a percentage range of about 3% to 20% should be interpreted as including not only the explicitly cited limits of about 3% to about 20%, but also as including subranges, such as 3% to 15%, 4% to 12%, and so on, as well as individual quantities, including fractional quantities, within the specified ranges, such as 3.5%, 6%, and 15.25%, for example.

[0023] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art to which this disclosure relates. Although all processes and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein may be used in the practice or testing of the disclosure, preferred processes and materials are now described.

[0024] This disclosure shall not be limited in scope by the specific embodiments described herein, which are intended for illustrative purposes only. Functionally equivalent products, compositions, and processes clearly fall within the scope of this disclosure, as described herein.

[0025] The present embodiments propose a composition in which the composition is used to color / lighten keratinous fibers, such as hair. The composition has good working qualities such as ease of emulsification and rinsing, good dyeing performance such as color uptake, intense color, chromatic color, uniform color, long-lasting color, good lightening and bleaching effect, as well as good conditioning properties.In particular, the combination of at least 3% by weight of at least one vegetable oil, relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one fatty acid other than the vegetable oil; at least 10% by weight of at least one solid fatty compound other than the vegetable oil and the fatty acid; at least one cationic polysaccharide; and at least one oxidative dye and / or at least one alkaline agent, in the composition, works synergistically to provide enhanced cosmetic, chromatic and lightening / bleaching effects while nourishing the hair due to the presence of vegetable oil.

[0026] The present embodiments also propose a method for applying the composition for dyeing / lightening keratinous fibers, such as hair. Composition

[0027] The embodiments presented here propose a composition comprising at least 3% by weight of at least one vegetable oil, relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one fatty acid other than the vegetable oil; at least 10% by weight of at least one solid fatty compound other than the vegetable oil and the fatty acid, relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one cationic polysaccharide; and at least one oxidative dye and / or at least one alkaline agent.

[0028] The composition, according to embodiments herein, is an environmentally friendly composition and demonstrates good dyeing performance such as color uptake, intense color, chromatic color, uniform color, durable color, good lightening / bleaching effect, good revitalizing properties while having good working qualities.

[0029] In particular, the composition incorporates a high percentage of vegetable oil(s) which allows a good lightening and nourishing, revitalizing and smoothing effect on the hair without leaving a perceived greasy feeling, in combination with the other components, as described herein. Vegetable oil

[0030] The embodiments of the composition include at least one vegetable oil.

[0031] The term "vegetable oil" includes triglyceride oils of vegetable origin.

[0032] The vegetable oil(s) according to the present invention, which may be used, is / are selected from sesame oil, soybean oil, coffee oil, safflower oil, borage oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, apricot kernel oil, camellia oil, bambara pea oil, avocado oil, mango oil, rice bran oil, cottonseed oil, rose oil, kiwi seed oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, blueberry seed oil, poppy seed oil, orange seed oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, vernonia oil, marjoram oil, oil baobab oil, rapeseed oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, jojoba oil, shea butter oil or combinations thereof.

[0033] Preferably, the vegetable oil or oils, according to embodiments herein, are chosen from avocado oil, jojoba oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, coconut oil, rapeseed oil, or combinations thereof, more preferably sunflower oil.

[0034] The total quantity of the vegetable oil or oils, in a particular embodiment, is in a range of 3% to 20% by weight, preferably 3% to 15% by weight, more preferably 4% to 12% by weight, and better 4% to 10% by weight, always better 5% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty acid different from vegetable oils

[0035] Embodiments of the composition include at least one fatty acid different from the vegetable oil or oils.

[0036] The term “fatty acid” refers to a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the present invention more preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and even better from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated.

[0037] The fatty acid or fatty acids, according to the present invention, which can be used, are chosen from at least one carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0038] In some embodiments, the fatty acid or fatty acids that may be used are chosen from at least one carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and better from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0039] Preferably, the fatty acid or fatty acids, according to the present invention, which can be used, are chosen from at least one carboxylic acid comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from a carboxylic acid comprising 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0040] In certain embodiments, the fatty acids according to the invention are chosen from compounds of structure R'-C(O)OH in which R' represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0041] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty acids" means free fatty acids, for example fatty acids according to the invention which are not esterified.

[0042] In one embodiment, the fatty acids can be chosen from solid fatty acids, liquid fatty acids or combinations thereof.

[0043] The expression "solid fatty acid" refers to a fatty acid having a melting point above 25 °C, preferably above or equal to 28 °C, more preferably above or equal to 30 °C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 0.5 Pa).

[0044] In one embodiment, the solid fatty acids are selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, or combinations thereof, preferably from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, or combinations thereof.

[0045] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "liquid fatty acid" means a fatty acid having a melting point less than or equal to 25 °C, preferably less than or equal to 20 °C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 1005 Pa).

[0046] The liquid fatty acid(s) may be chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, isostearic acid, iso- palmitic acid, or combinations thereof.

[0047] In certain embodiments, the fatty acid(s) present in the composition are chosen from lauric acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, undecylenic acid, isocetyl acid, isostearic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and, and their combinations, preferably chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, or their combinations.

[0048] In some embodiments, the fatty acid or acids present in the composition are chosen from one or more solid fatty acids.

[0049] The fatty acid or fatty acids other than vegetable oil, according to embodiments herein, are chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid or combinations thereof.

[0050] Preferably, the fatty acid(s), in certain embodiments, are chosen from myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid or combinations thereof.

[0051] The total amount of fatty acid(s) in which the fatty acid is different from vegetable oils, in a particular embodiment, is in a weight range of 0.1% to 15%, preferably in a weight range of 0.2% to 10%, more preferably from 0.4% to 5% by weight, and better from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] Preferably, the total amount of the fatty acid(s) selected from solid fatty acids, in which the fatty acid is different from vegetable oils, in a particular embodiment, is in a weight range of 0.1% to 15%, preferably in a weight range of 0.2% to 10%, more preferably from 0.4% to 5% by weight, and better from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Solid fatty compound

[0053] Embodiments of the composition include at least one solid fatty compound other than vegetable oils and fatty acids.

[0054] The expression "solid fatty acid" refers to one or more fatty substances having a melting point above 25 °C, preferably above or equal to 28 °C, more preferably above or equal to 30 °C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 1005 Pa).

[0055] The solid fatty compound(s) according to the present invention preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25 °C and at a shear rate of 1 s1.

[0056] The solid fatty compounds, according to embodiments herein, are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated. In some embodiments, the solid fatty compounds are non-silicone compounds.

[0057] The solid fatty compound(s) according to the present invention is (are) preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides or combinations thereof.

[0058] The term "fatty alcohol" includes a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxy-alkylated nor glycerolized.

[0059] The solid fatty alcohols according to the present invention that can be used can be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have an R-OH structure, R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, and even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0060] In some embodiments, the solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated (mono)alcohols, and linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, and even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0061] In various embodiments, the solid fatty alcohols that can be used can be chosen, alone or in mixture, from: - myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); - cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); - stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); - arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); - behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); - lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); - ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); - montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); and - myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0062] In an additional embodiment, the solid fatty alcohols are selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, or combinations thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or combinations thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

[0063] The solid esters of a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol, according to the present invention, which can be used are preferably chosen from the esters resulting from a C9-C30 carboxylic fatty acid and / or a C9-C30 fatty alcohol.

[0064] In some embodiments, these solid fatty esters are esters of an acid A linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid, comprising at least 9 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and a linear or branched saturated monoalcohol, comprising at least 9 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0065] In various embodiments, C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acid esters and C1-C22 alcohol esters and C2-C26 mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acid esters and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohol esters may also be used.

[0066] In an additional embodiment, the solid fatty esters may be selected from octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, Dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, or combinations thereof.

[0067] In certain embodiments, the solid esters of a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; or combinations thereof.

[0068] In a particular embodiment, the solid esters of a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol are selected from myristyle stearate, myristyle palmitate or their combinations.

[0069] The waxes suitable for use according to the present invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, or combinations thereof.

[0070] The term "wax" includes a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, having a melting point above approximately 40 °C, which can reach up to 200 °C, and having an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition containing them a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a mixture microscopically homogeneous, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence).

[0071] In some embodiments, the waxes can be chosen from hydrocarbon-based waxes, for example beeswax or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice bran wax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, flower absolute waxes; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozocerite, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0072] We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in C2 to C60.

[0073] In various embodiments, the waxes can be obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils containing linear or branched fatty chains in the C8 to C32 range. Among these waxes, we can mention in particular isomerized jojoba oil, such as partially hydrogenated trans-isomerized jojoba oil, in particular the product manufactured or sold by Desert Whale under the trade name Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(l,l,l-trimethylolpropane tetrastearate), in particular the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by Heterene.

[0074] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, can also be used.

[0075] A wax that can also be used in various embodiments is a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydropolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company Koster Keunen.

[0076] In certain embodiments, it is also possible to use microwaxes, including camauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by Micro Powders, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by Micro Powders, microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by Micro Powders, and microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by Micro Powders, polyethylene micro-waxes, such as the products sold under the names Micro 200®, 220L®, 220L® and 250S® by Micro Powders, and polytetraethylene micro-waxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by Micro Powders.

[0077] Waxes that are preferably chosen, in one embodiment, include mineral waxes, for example paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite wax; vegetable waxes, for example cocoa butter or cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax or absolute flower waxes, such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the Bertin company (France); waxes of animal origin, for example beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and combinations thereof.

[0078] Ceramides, or ceramide analogues, according to the present invention, such as glycoceramides, which may be used, include ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

[0079] The ceramides or their analogues that can be used preferably correspond to the following formula:

[0080] in which: • Ri designates a linear or branched alkyl group, saturated or unsaturated, derived from fatty acids in Ci4-C30, possibly substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated Ci6-C3o fatty acid; • R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, where n is an integer from 1 to 4 and m is an integer from 1 to 8; • R3 designates a hydrocarbon-based group in Ci5-C26, which is saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group being optionally substituted by one or more alkyl groups in CrCi4; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also designate an alpha-hydroxyalkyl group in Ci5-C26, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified by an alpha-hydroxy acid in Ci6-C30.

[0081] Preferably, ceramides are used in which Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a ga- lactosyl or sulfogalactosyl; and R3 designates a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0082] In some embodiments, the ceramides that are chosen are the compounds for which Ri designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from fatty acids in Ci6-C22; R2 designates a hydrogen atom and R3 designates a linear group saturated in C15.

[0083] In various embodiments, compounds can also be used in which Ri designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from fatty acids in Ci2-C22; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 designates a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical in Ci2-C22 and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2 -CH3 group.

[0084] In various embodiments, we can also mention 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol, and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoyinohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingoin, N-palmitohydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-do-cosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide, and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and combinations thereof. In certain embodiments, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine shall be preferentially used.

[0085] Preferably, the solid fatty compound(s), according to embodiments herein, is / are chosen from solid fatty alcohols, more preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanylic alcohol, myricyl alcohol, or combinations thereof.

[0086] More preferably, the solid fatty compound, in certain embodiments, is cetearyl alcohol.

[0087] The total quantity of the solid fatty compound(s) other than vegetable oils and fatty acids, in a particular embodiment, is (are) in a weight range of 10% to 30%, preferably in a weight range of 12% to 20%, and more preferably in a weight range of 15% to 20% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0088] Preferably, the total quantity of the solid fatty compound(s) selected from the solid fatty alcohol(s) in a particular embodiment is in a weight range of 10% to 30%, preferably in a weight range of 12% to 20%, and more preferably in a weight range of 15% to 20% relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic polysaccharide

[0089] Embodiments of the composition include at least one cationic polysaccharide.

[0090] The term “cationic polysaccharide” includes any polysaccharide comprising cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups, and not comprising anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

[0091] The cationic polysaccharide(s) according to the present invention, which may be used, is (are) chosen from cationic cellulosic derivatives, cationic galactomannan gums or their combinations.

[0092] Among cationic cellulose derivatives, particular examples include cationic cellulose derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, cationic galactomannan gums, or combinations thereof.

[0093] Cellulose derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in French patent 1,492,597, and one can mention the polymers sold under the name UCARE POLYMER “JR” (JR 400 LT, J 125 and JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400 and LR 30M) by Dow Chemical. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium compounds of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group. Polyquaternium-10 is, for example, one of these polymers.

[0094] Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described, in particular, in US patent 4,131,576, and hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example, hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with a salt of methacryloyl ethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium, may be mentioned. Commercial products corresponding to this definition are, more specifically, those marketed under the names CELQUAT L 200 and CELQUAT H 100 by National Starch.

[0095] Cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, preferably Ci-C6 trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium (e.g., the chloride) may be used. Such products are marketed, in particular, under the names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17, and JAGUAR C162 by Rhodia.

[0096] Preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s), according to embodiments herein, is / are chosen from cationic cellulose derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic galactomannan gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, or combinations thereof.

[0097] More preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s), in certain embodiments, is / are chosen from among cationic galactomannan gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, and preferably from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups.

[0098] Preferably, the cationic polysaccharides are selected from cationic galactomannan gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, and more preferably from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. More preferably, the cationic polysaccharides are selected from polymers bearing INCI names such as hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, or mixtures thereof; guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride is preferred.

[0099] The total amount of the cationic polysaccharide(s), in a particular embodiment, is in a weight range of 0.01% to 8% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 4%, and better 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0100] Preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) is / are selected from cationic galactomannan gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and is / are in a total weight range of 0.01% to 8% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 4%, and better 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0101] More preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) is / are selected from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and is / are in a total weight range of 0.01% to 8% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 4%, and better 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oxidative dye

[0102] Embodiments of the composition may include at least one oxidative dye.

[0103] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more oxidative dyes.

[0104] The oxidative dye, according to the present invention, includes at least one oxidation base and / or at least one oxidation coupler. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more oxidation bases in com- combination with one or more couplers.

[0105] Oxidation bases are generally colorless or faintly colored compounds which, when mixed with oxidizing compounds, give rise to colored compounds or a dye. Furthermore, the color shades obtained with such oxidation bases can be varied by combining them with oxidation couplers or color modifiers.

[0106] The oxidation base(s) according to the present invention, which can be used, are chosen from a group consisting of para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts.

[0107] The addition salts of the oxidation bases are preferably chosen from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

[0108] The para-phenylenediamines that can be used are selected from para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-(ethyl-[3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3,γ-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(|3-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 3-hydroxy-l-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene, and / or the addition salts thereof with a , acid.

[0109] In some embodiments, the para-phenylenediamines are selected from para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, or, preferably, their addition salts with an acid, or combinations thereof.

[0110] The bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that can be used are selected from N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis-([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine, 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane or their addition salts.

[0111] The para-aminophenols may be selected from para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-([3-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, or the addition salts of these with an acid. In one example, the addition salt is a sulfurous acid salt or a sodium metabisulfite salt.

[0112] The ortho-aminophenols that can be used are chosen from, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, or their addition salts.

[0113] The heterocyclic bases that can be used are chosen from pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.

[0114] In certain embodiments, the pyridine derivatives may be selected from compounds as described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and / or GB 1 153 196, including 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine, 3,4-diaminopyridine, or addition salts thereof.

[0115] In various embodiments, the pyridine derivatives may further be selected from the oxidation bases of 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, or their addition salts, described, for example, in French patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples of such bases include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-2-yl)oxyethanol, or their addition salts. ,

[0116] In some embodiments, the pyrimidine derivatives can be chosen from the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375, or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and addition salts thereof and their tautomeric forms, where a tautomeric equilibrium exists.

[0117] Pyrazole derivatives, in certain embodiments, may be selected, for example, from the compounds described in patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 or patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, the 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, L-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-L-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-L-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, the 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, the 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-l,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, l-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-l-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diarnino-4-([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-l-methylpyrazole, or their addition salts. 4,5-diamino-l-([3-methoxyethyl)pyrazole can also be used.

[0118] In various embodiments, 4,5-diaminopyrazole and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, or its salts, may be mentioned.

[0119] In another embodiment, the pyrazole derivatives that may be used also include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolo pyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FRA 2886136, such as the following compounds and their addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6, 7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H,6H-pyridazino[1,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1 -yl)-1,2-Dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1H,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1H,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and / or, preferably, a salt of these or combinations thereof. Preferably, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1H,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, or its salts, may be cited.

[0120] In some embodiments, the heterocyclic base can be chosen from 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-2-yl)oxyethanol, or their salts.

[0121] In various embodiments, the oxidation bases are chosen from among the para- phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, corresponding addition salts, or combinations thereof, preferably from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, their addition salts, or combinations thereof.

[0122] The oxidation coupler(s) according to the present invention, which can be used, are selected from a group consisting of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts.

[0123] In certain embodiments, the oxidation couplers may be selected from 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, 1-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-[3-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 2,4-diamino-1-([3-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, the l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphtol, 2-methyl-1-naphtol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 5-methoxy-6-hydroxyindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, lN-([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 2,6-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2-chloro-3,5-diaminopyridine, 2-chloro-3,5-diamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2-chloro-3,5-diamino-6-methylpyridine, 1H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 4-(3,5-diaminopyridin-2-yl)-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1-methylpiperazine-1-ium chloride, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-b]-1,2,4-triazole, 2,4,6-trimethoxyaniline hydrochloride, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-1,2,4-triazole, the 6-Methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole and 2,6-diaminopyrazine, salts thereof with an acid, or combinations thereof.

[0124] In various embodiments, the oxidation couplers can be chosen from 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, 1-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-[3-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 2,4-diamino-1-([3-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, a-Naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, rhydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, their addition salts or combinations thereof.

[0125] The oxidation couplers, in certain embodiments, are further selected from 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2,4-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, l-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-[3-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, l-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, their salts, or their addition salts.

[0126] In general, the addition salts of the oxidation couplers according to the present invention are chosen from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, brom-hydrates, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

[0127] In various embodiments, the oxidation couplers are selected from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2,4-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, l-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-[3-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, l-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, addition salts thereof, salts of these, salts of these, or combinations thereof.

[0128] Preferably, the oxidation couplers are chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, their addition salts, or combinations thereof.

[0129] The composition according to the embodiments present is, in certain embodiments, free from oxidation couplers selected from resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, or addition salts thereof.

[0130] The total quantity of the oxidation base(s), in a particular embodiment, is in a weight range of 0.0001% to 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0131] The total quantity of the oxidation coupler(s), in a particular embodiment, is in a weight range of 0.0001% to 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0132] The oxidation base(s) and the coupler(s) may be in ap- properties such that the total quantity of oxidative tincture, according to embodiments herein, is in the range of 0.0002% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition. Alkaline agent

[0133] Embodiments of the composition may include at least one alkaline agent. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkaline agent.

[0134] The alkali agent(s) that may be used are chosen from at least one mineral, organic or hybrid alkali agent or combinations thereof.

[0135] Mineral alkali agents are selected from ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, or combinations thereof.

[0136] Organic alkali agents are selected from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine, or combinations thereof.

[0137] The term "alkanolamine" designates an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched Ci-C8 alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.

[0138] In certain embodiments, organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different hydroxyalkyl radicals in Ci-Cio are particularly suitable for the embodiment of the invention.

[0139] In particular, in certain embodiments, the alkanolamine(s) are selected from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, or combinations thereof.

[0140] The alkali agent(s), according to the present invention, are selected from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide, metal carbonates, metal bicarbonates, alkali metal silicates, alkaline earth metal silicates, alkaline earth metal metasilicates, alkaline earth metal metasilicates, or combinations thereof.

[0141] Preferably, the alkali agent(s) according to embodiments described herein are chosen from alkanolamines and ammonium hydroxide. More preferably, the agent The alkaline is chosen from among the alkanolamines, better still, monoethanolamine.

[0142] The total quantity of the alkali agent(s), in a particular embodiment, can range from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, and even more preferably from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] Preferably, the alkali agent(s) is / are chosen from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide or combinations thereof and are in a total weight range of 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably 2% to 25% by weight, and better 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0144] Preferably, the alkaline agent(s) chosen from the alkanolamines is (are) in a total quantity of 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably 2% to 25% by weight, and better 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oxidizing agent

[0145] In one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention includes at least one oxidizing agent.

[0146] According to this embodiment, the composition of the invention is a ready-to-use composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent.

[0147] The oxidizing agent(s), according to embodiments herein, may be chosen from, for example, hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, such as persulfates, perborates, peracids and / or their precursors, or alkali metal or alkaline earth metal percarbonates.

[0148] In one embodiment, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.

[0149] The total quantity of the oxidizing agent(s), in a particular embodiment, is in a weight range of 0.1% to 40%, and preferably in a weight range of 0.5% to 20%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0150] In another embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidizing agent. According to this embodiment, the composition is preferably mixed with a composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent immediately before use.

[0151] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidizing agent. Additives

[0152] Embodiments of the composition may optionally include at least one additive, different from the compounds of the present invention.

[0153] The additives, according to the present invention, which can be used are selected from mineral thickening agents, non-ionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, polymers, chelating agents, sequestrants, solvents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, agents for preventing hair loss and / or promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins, including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes and preservatives.

[0154] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compound(s) so that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the present invention are not, or not substantially, negatively affected by the envisaged addition(s).

[0155] The total quantity of each of the additive(s), in a particular embodiment, is in a weight range of 0.01% and 20%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0156] Embodiments of the composition also include at least one solvent.

[0157] The solvents of the composition, according to the present invention, may comprise water and / or one or more organic solvents.

[0158] In one embodiment, the organic solvents are chosen from linear or branched monoalcohols or diols, preferably saturated, comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenylethyl alcohol; polyols containing more than two hydroxyl functions, such as glycerol; polyol ethers, for example ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol or its ethers, for example propylene glycol monomethyl ether; and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, in particular Ci-C4 alkyl ethers, for example diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or in combination.

[0159] In some embodiments, the organic solvent(s), if present, is (are) in a weight range of 0.1% to 20%, preferably in a weight range of 0.4% to 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0160] In various embodiments, the composition according to the present invention is preferably stable. The total amount of water in the composition, according to embodiments herein, is in a weight range of 30% to 99%, preferably in a weight range of 40% to 95%, and more preferably from 50% to 90% relative to the total weight of the composition. Kit

[0161] The embodiments provided herein also include a kit comprising a com Composition (A) as described in the above embodiments, comprising at least 3% by weight of at least one vegetable oil, relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one fatty acid other than the vegetable oil; at least 10% by weight of at least one solid fatty compound other than the fatty acid and the vegetable oil, relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one cationic polysaccharide; and at least one oxidative dye and / or at least one alkali agent, and a composition (B) comprising at least one oxidizing agent. Compositions (A) and (B) are intended to be mixed together at the time of use to obtain a ready-to-use composition which is then applied to keratin fibers to dye and / or lighten the keratin fibers. Preferably, the pH of the ready-to-use composition is between 8 and 11, preferably between 9.0 and 10.5.

[0162] Compositions (A) and (B) may be in separate sachets or containers or in a single double-compartment sachet, optionally accompanied by one or more suitable applicators, which may be identical or different, such as fine brushes, coarse brushes, or sponges. The kit mentioned above may also be equipped with a means of distributing the desired mixture onto the hair, for example, the devices described in French patent FR 2586913. Process

[0163] The composition of the present invention can be manufactured using known processes that are generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field. Generally, the process for preparing the composition comprises mixing at least 3% by weight of at least one vegetable oil; at least one fatty acid other than the vegetable oil; at least 10% of at least one solid fatty compound other than the fatty acid and the vegetable oil; at least one cationic polysaccharide; and at least one oxidative dye and / or at least one alkaline agent, with a suitable solvent, and optionally one or more additives to obtain the composition.

[0164] The present embodiments further include a method for dyeing / lightening keratin fibers. The method comprises applying the composition according to the present invention to said fibers and allowing the composition to stand for a processing time preferably in the range of 5 to 45 minutes to dye said keratin fibers. In some embodiments, the composition is allowed to stand for a processing time in the range of 5 to 15 minutes.

[0165] The embodiments herein also include methods for manufacturing composition (A) and composition (B) of the kit offered herein. In one embodiment, the method for preparing composition (A) is according to the method described above, comprising mixing at least 3% by weight of at least one oil vegetable oil; at least one fatty acid other than vegetable oil; at least 10% of at least one solid fatty compound other than the fatty acid and vegetable oil; at least one cationic polysaccharide; and at least one oxidative dye and / or at least one alkali, with a suitable solvent, and optionally the additive to obtain composition (A). The process for preparing composition (B) includes mixing the oxidizing agent with a suitable solvent and, optionally, the additive to obtain composition (B).

[0166] In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is mixed with an oxidizing composition preferably comprising hydrogen peroxide immediately before use.

[0167] The temperature during the process is conventionally between ambient temperature (15 to 25 °C) and 80 °C, and preferably between ambient temperature and 60 °C. Use

[0168] Embodiments herein include the use of the composition of the present invention.

[0169] The composition, according to embodiments herein, can be used to dye and / or lighten keratinous fibers, in particular hair. The composition can be used for the purposes of color changing, lightening / bleaching hair and / or covering gray hair.

[0170] The composition can be used on natural hair and / or artificial hair, including hair extensions.

[0171] The composition can be used at different temperatures, including conventionally at room temperature (between 15°C and 25°C) and 80°C and preferably between room temperature and 60°C.

[0172] In some embodiments, the composition may optionally be accompanied by one or more suitable applicators which may be identical or different, such as fine brushes, coarse brushes or sponges for application to keratinous fibers, such as hair.

[0173] Although the subject has been described in great detail with reference to certain examples and implementations thereof, it is understood that other implementations are possible and included within the scope of the present invention. EXAMPLES

[0174] The disclosure will now be illustrated by practical examples, which are intended to demonstrate how the disclosure works and are not intended to impose restrictive limitations on the scope of this disclosure. Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used in this document have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art. This disclosure is relevant. Although processes and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein may be used in practice for the disclosed processes and compositions, examples of such processes, devices, and materials are described here. It should be understood that this disclosure is not limited to the particular processes and experimental conditions described, as these processes and conditions may be applicable. Example 1

[0175] Composition for lightening keratinous fibers

[0176] Composition A (according to the invention) for dyeing / lightening keratinous fibers was prepared using 6% by weight of vegetable oil (i.e., sunflower oil); polyol, i.e., 5% by weight of propylene glycol; cationic polysaccharide, i.e., 0.5% by weight of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride; nonionic associative polymer, i.e., 0.05% by weight of cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose; 0.24% by weight of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate; surfactants, i.e., 1.50% by weight of laureth-12, 3% by weight of laureth-4, 1.50% by weight of oleth-20 and 2.40% by weight of polysorbate 21; solid fatty compounds, i.e., 17% by weight of cetearyl alcohol; alkaline agent, i.e., 7.83% by weight of ethanolamine; fatty acids, namely 0.32% by weight of stearic acid, 0.02% by weight of myristic acid and 0.26% by weight of palmitic acid; 0.25% by weight of ascorbic acid; 0.75% by weight of sodium metabisulfite; and water (to make up to 100% by weight).

[0177] The vegetable oil (sunflower oil) used in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, was commercially obtained from Europe ADM Speciality Oil and Fats (Société Industrielle des Oléagineux).

[0178] Comparative composition B was prepared similarly to composition A, except that in composition B, the amount of vegetable oil was reduced to 1%. Comparative composition C was also prepared similarly to composition A, except that it was prepared without vegetable oil.

[0179] The ingredients used to prepare compositions A, B and C are provided in Table 1 below, expressed as % by weight.

[0180] [Table 1] Table 1 No. Ingredient (INCI) Compositions ABC 1 Ethanolamine 7.83 7.83 7.83 2 Ascorbic acid 0.25 0.25 0.25 3 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.24 0.24 0.24 4 Myristic acid 0.02 0.02 0.02 5 Palmitic acid 0.26 0.26 0.26 6 Stearic acid 0.32 0.32 0.32 7 Propylene glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00 8 Guar hydroxypropyl-trimonium chloride 0.50 0.50 0.50 9 Cetearyl alcohol 17.00 17.00 17.00 10 Laureth-12 1.50 1.50 1.50 11 Laureth-4 3.00 3.00 3.00 12 Oleth-20 1.50 1.50 1.50 13 Polysorbate 21 2.40 2.40 2.40 14 Cetyl hydroxyethyl-cellulose 0.05 0.05 0.05 15 Vegetable Oil 6.00 1.00 - 16 Sodium metabisulfite 0.75 0.75 0.75 18 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100

[0181] Oxidizing composition D was prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in Table 2 below, expressed as % by weight:

[0182] [Table 2] Table 2 Ingredients Composition D Stabilizing and chelating agents QS Hydrogen peroxide 6.00 Cetearyl alcohol 2.28 Ceteareth-25 0.57 Trideceth-2 carboxamide mea 0.85 Glycerol 0.50 Phosphoric acid qs pH 2.2 Water qs 100

[0183] Example!: Color change assessment

[0184] Protocol: Color modification, i.e., the ability to lighten / The bleaching of the compositions was tested in vitro on untreated samples of virgin / untreated Indian black hair. Each of composition A and comparative composition B was independently mixed with oxidizing composition D in a 1:1 weight ratio to obtain mixtures 1 and 2, respectively.

[0185] Each of mixtures 1 and 2 was applied to the hair strands and left for a processing time of 35 minutes. The hair strands were then rinsed to remove the mixtures and oven-dried.

[0186] The color or lightening of the hair strands was measured using a spectrocolorimeter (such as the CM-2600D spectrocolorimeter) with an integrating sphere and D65 illumination. The color was detected in the CIELAB 1976 color space using three Cartesian colorimetric coordinates: L* (lightness), a* (red-green axis), and b* (blue-yellow axis). The color can also be expressed in this space with components more descriptive in terms of visual perception, with the polar coordinates C* and h expressing saturation and hue angle.

[0187] The color difference, AE, which expresses the perceived difference between two colors, can be calculated from the colorimetric coordinates L*, a* and b*.

[0188] It is calculated as follows: AEL — + ) Z + (J3 — b... F

[0189] By calculating the color difference between hair strands before and after the application of the hair coloring product, the increase in coloring / lightening of the hair strands, and therefore its coloring / lightening performance, was characterized. Consequently, the greater the color difference, AE, between the hair strands before and after the application of the hair coloring product, the better the coloring / lightening performance. Calculating the color difference between two colored / lightened hair strands reveals whether any color differences between them can be visually perceived or not.

[0190] Results: The results of the color test are provided in Table 3. The greatest difference in color / lightening was observed for mixture 1 comprising composition A, which had an AE value of 8.54. Mixture 2 comprising the comparative composition B showed a minimal difference in color / lightening and had almost the same AE values ​​of 6.44, respectively. Composition A, which included 6% vegetable oil, clearly allowed for lightening capacity, while the comparative composition with an amount A very minimal amount (1%) of oil was unable to achieve the same effect. It is clear that the higher quantity of vegetable oil in formula A works synergistically with the ingredients, as shown in Table 1, and provides superior lightening.

[0191] [Table 3] Table 3 Mixture 1 (Composition A + Composition D) Mixture 2 (Composition B + Composition D) A Values ​​E 8.54 6.44

[0192] Example 3: Evaluation of the revitalization effect

[0193] Protocol: The revitalizing effect is tested in vitro on untreated samples of Indian human hair. Each of mixtures 1 and 2, as prepared in Example 2, was applied to the hair strands and left for a period of 35 minutes. The hair strands were then rinsed to remove the mixtures and oven-dried.

[0194] The revitalization effect was assessed by a panel of experts (8 evaluators).

[0195] Results: The revitalizing effect was rated as highest for mixture 1 comprising composition A, while for mixture 2 comprising composition B, the revitalizing effect was rated with a negligible improvement in sensory quality, i.e., smooth texture and softness. Mixture 1 resulted in a feeling of softness, suppleness, and smooth texture in the hair strands, as well as luster. The hair strands were also easy to comb. It was observed that composition A, containing 6% vegetable oil, was able to effectively revitalize the hair, whereas the comparative composition with a very minimal amount (1%) of oil did not offer the same revitalizing effect.

[0196] Example 4:

[0197] Consumer evaluation of coloring and workability

[0198] Protocol: The coloring and workability qualities, including ease of mixing and application, consistency, ease of emulsification, and ease of rinsing, were tested on consumer participants / volunteers. Eight participants with medium to long hair, a medium to high volume, and 0% to 20% gray hair were selected. Before applying the compositions, the participants' heads were thoroughly shampooed, and the hair was subsequently blow-dried. Each of composition A and the comparative composition C was independently mixed with the oxidizing composition D in a 1:1 weight ratio.

[0199] Each of mixtures 1 (composition A+D) and 3 (composition C+D) was applied to the participants' hair, left for a period of 35 minutes, then rinsed with water to remove the mixtures, and the hair was blow-dried.

[0200] Consumers appreciated the time required to mix the compositions, the speed at which the compositions emulsified, the number of brush strokes and the time required to apply the composition evenly to the hair, and the time required to rinse the mixtures. They also evaluated the change in color of the treated hair after the drying step.

[0201] Results:

[0202] Lightening: Overall, mixture 1 comprising composition A had a better lightening / bleaching effect and a better gloss for each participant. The lightening / bleaching effect was lower in mixture 3 for each participant.

[0203] Mixture 1 comprising composition A was also preferred by participants for its ease of emulsification and rinsing of hair, compared to mixture 3.

[0204] Overall, mixture 1 was preferred by the participants for its good workability and coloring qualities, i.e. lightening / bleaching effect. BENEFITS OF THIS DISCLOSURE

[0205] The composition of the present invention improves color modification in terms of lightening / bleaching while also offering good working qualities such as ease of emulsification and rinsing. The composition also demonstrates good nourishment and revitalization of the hair, contributing to a smooth texture and a supple feel. This is achieved, in part, due to the incorporation of an appropriate amount of vegetable oil in the composition of the present invention, which also results in an environmentally friendly composition with reduced reliance on artificial ingredients.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition comprising: at least 3% by weight of at least one vegetable oil, relative to a total weight of the composition; at least one fatty acid other than the vegetable oil; at least 10% by weight of at least one solid fatty compound other than the vegetable oil and the fatty acid, relative to a total weight of the composition; at least one cationic polysaccharide; and at least one oxidative dye and / or at least one alkali agent.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the vegetable oil is selected from sunflower oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, coffee oil, safflower oil, borage oil, olive oil, apricot kernel oil, camellia oil, bambara pea oil, avocado oil, mango oil, rice bran oil, cottonseed oil, rose oil, kiwi seed oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, blueberry seed oil, poppy seed oil, orange kernel oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, vemonia oil, marjoram oil, baobab oil, rapeseed oil, Ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, or combinations thereof, preferably avocado oil, jojoba oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, coconut oil, rapeseed oil, or combinations thereof,Sunflower oil is preferable.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the vegetable oil(s) is / are in a total weight range of 3% to 20%, preferably 3% to 15% by weight, more preferably 4% to 12% by weight, better 4% to 10% by weight, and even better 5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid(s) other than vegetable oil is (are) selected from at least one carboxylic acid comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, and preferably from a carboxylic acid comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, or combinations thereof, and preferably from myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, or combinations thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the solid fatty compound other than vegetable oil and fatty acid is selected from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides or combinations thereof, preferably solid fatty alcohols, more preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, or combinations thereof, and preferably cetearyl alcohol.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the solid fatty compound(s) other than vegetable oil and fatty acids is (are) in a total weight range of 10% to 30%, preferably 12% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 15% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic polysaccharide is selected from cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic galactomannan gums, or combinations thereof, preferably from cationic cellulose derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic galactomannan gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, or combinations thereof, more preferably from cationic galactomannan gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, and better from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the alkali agent is selected from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide, metal carbonates, metal bicarbonates, alkali metal silicates, alkaline earth metal silicates, alkali metal metasilicates, alkaline earth metal metasilicates, or combinations thereof, preferably from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide or combinations thereof, more preferably from alkanolamines, and preferably, is monoethanolamine.

9. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises at least one oxidizing agent, preferably in a weight range of 0.1% to 40%, and preference within a weight range of 0.5% to 20%, relative to the total weight of the composition.