Cosmetic composition comprising anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, and particular chitosans, and cosmetic treatment method

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, and one or more chitosans present in a total content of at least 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular for washing and / or conditioning the hair, using such a composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, and particular chitosans, and cosmetic treatment method

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular for hair, and more particularly for cleaning and / or conditioning hair, comprising one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and one or more particular cationic polymers. The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials using said composition.

[0002] Hair can generally be damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and / or by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and / or straightening.

[0003] To overcome these drawbacks, it is now common to use hair compositions that condition the hair following these treatments in order to give it shine, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and detangling properties. These hair compositions may be, for example, care compositions, to be applied before or after shampooing, or compositions that are both cleansing and conditioning, such as conditioning shampoos for example. The latter generally have good washing power, but the cosmetic properties provided can be further improved; conditioning agents, most often silicone-based, are then generally included in these shampoos.

[0004] However, silicones are not always very popular with consumers, who are increasingly looking for compositions that allow them to clean the hair while conditioning it, but do not include silicones.

[0005] It has been proposed to replace silicones with various carbon-based conditioning agents such as fatty alcohols or fatty esters; however, these hair compositions do not necessarily give complete satisfaction and can still be improved, in particular concerning the deposition of conditioning agents, in particular non-silicone ones, on the keratin fibers.

[0006] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. those whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern in helping to meet global challenges. It is therefore essential to propose compositions that can meet these environmental challenges.

[0007] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good index of naturalness and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0008] There is therefore a real need to develop cosmetic compositions, in particular hair compositions, in particular intended for the cleaning and conditioning of keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibers, in particular hair, which are capable of giving them improved cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of detangling, smoothness to the touch, flexibility and coating of the fiber; while retaining good washing power, in particular good foaming power, while advantageously being free from silicone compounds, or even from usual conditioning agents such as cationic polymers of petrochemical origin.

[0009] It has been found that a particular family of cationic polymers, chitosan-type polymers, could be a good alternative to usual silicones and / or cationic polymers. In order to be solubilized, chitosans are generally neutralized, for example using an organic or mineral acid; however, the joint presence in the composition of anionic surfactants and neutralized chitosans generally leads to the formation of a precipitate and therefore instability of the final composition.

[0010] Surprisingly, it has been found that a very particular family of chitosan makes it possible to avoid the formation of precipitate in the presence of anionic surfactants, whether the chitosan is neutralized or not. Advantageously, the use of these particular chitosans can lead to the production of translucent compositions.

[0011] The present invention relates in particular to a cosmetic composition, preferably for hair, comprising:

[0012] - one or more surfactants chosen from anionic surfactants, surfactants amphoteric, and their mixtures, and

[0013] - one or more chitosans having a weight average molecular weight (Mw) less than or equal to 3000 Da, present in a total content of at least 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] It has been found that the composition according to the invention has satisfactory foaming power. It allows the production of abundant foam, generated rapidly, which spreads easily over the keratin fibers and which is easily removed when rinsing.

[0015] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to improve the cosmetic properties conferred on keratin fibers, in particular on hair, in particular on sensitized, damaged or weakened hair. In particular, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to improve the detangling and suppleness of the hair, as well as their smooth to the touch. It also provides adequate coating of the keratin fibers; these properties provide a good level of perception of care provided to the hair.

[0016] This advantageously makes it possible to avoid the use of conventional conditioning agents such as silicones and cationic polymers other than the polymers according to the invention, in particular acrylic polymers, while providing the good conditioning properties sought by users.

[0017] The composition according to the invention also has the advantage of being stable during storage both at room temperature (20-25°C) and at 45°C, in particular in terms of its visual appearance and / or its viscosity.

[0018] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "stable" means a composition which, after two months of storage, does not show any change in appearance, color, odor or viscosity.

[0019] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is transparent.

[0020] By "transparent composition" is meant a composition having a turbidity less than or equal to 200 NTU, NTU being the nephelometric units for measuring turbidity. Turbidity can be measured, for example, with a Model 30 2100P turbidimeter marketed by Hach Company, the tubes used for the measurement being referenced AR698A cat 24347-06. Calibration is carried out with formazin and measurements are carried out at room temperature (20 to 25 °C). The compositions of the invention preferably have a turbidity less than or equal to 150 NTU, preferably less than or equal to 35,100 NTU. More preferably, the compositions of the invention have a turbidity ranging from 0.05 to 100 NTU, better still from 1 to 95 NTU, better still from 10 to 95 NTU, and even more preferably from 50 to 90 NTU.

[0021] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values ​​are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

[0022] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for it. Chitosan

[0023] Chitosan (or chitosan) is a polysaccharide that is relatively uncommon in nature. It is generally obtained by deacetylation of chitin, one of the components present in the exoskeleton of certain crustaceans, the endoskeleton of certain cephalopods and in the cell walls of certain fungi.

[0024] Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units linked together by a [3 (1,4)] type bond. The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a chain of [3-D-glucosamine linked by a glycosidic bond (1—>4).

[0025] By "chitosan" according to the invention, we preferably mean any copolymer formed from constituent units N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine, the degree of acetylation of which is less than 90%. Chitosan is made up of glucosamine sugar units (deacetylated units) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units (acetylated units) linked together by bonds of type [3 (1,4) and constitutes a polymer of the type Poly(N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly(D-glucosamine).

[0026] Preferably, the degree of acetylation of the chitosan according to the invention is less than or equal to 50%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, preferably less than or equal to 20%, even better less than or equal to 15%, and even better less than or equal to 10%. The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated units relative to the number of total units, it can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) or by titration with a strong base.

[0027] The chitosan according to the invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal origin. It is in particular extracted and purified from safe and abundant food or biotechnological fungal sources such as Agaricus bisporus or Aspergillus niger. The chitosan according to the invention is preferably derived from the mycelium of a fungus of the Ascomycete type, and in particular Aspergillus niger and / or a Basidiomycete fungus, and in particular Lentinula edodes (shiitake) and / or Agaricus bisporus. Preferably the fungus is Aspergillus niger.

[0028] The chitosan may be of GMO origin, but preferably is of non-GMO origin.

[0029] The chitosan according to the invention is native, that is to say that it is not modified. In particular, it does not contain any chemical modification.

[0030] Preferably, the chitosan used in the invention is in powder form.

[0031] A method for preparing chitosan is described in application WO03068824.

[0032] Preferably, the chitosans capable of being used in the context of the invention are chosen from the compounds corresponding to the following formula (A), as well as their organic or mineral acid salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures:

[0033] in which:

[0034] - R'i represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl;

[0035] - p is strictly greater than 0 and goes up to 0.5 (inclusive), preferably goes from 0.001 to 0.3, better from 0.01 to 0.2, and even better from 0.02 to 0.1;

[0036] - m is strictly less than 1, and goes up to 0.5 (inclusive), preferably goes from 0.7 to 0.98, better from 0.8 to 0.97, even better from 0.85 to 0.95; being understood that m+p=l; and

[0037] - n is an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably between 2 and 25, better between 3 and 22, even better between 5 and 20, or even between 5 and 18.

[0038] It is therefore understood that in the chitosan used in the context of the invention, at least one saccharide unit carries an amino group NH2 and at least one other saccharide unit carries a group NH-C(O)-R' i with R' i representing a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, for example the saccharide unit can carry a group CH3-C(O)-NH-.

[0039] For example, when m = 0.7 and p = 0.3, this means that 70% of the amine groups are free (unsubstituted) and 30% of the amino groups are N-alkyl(Ci-C4)carbonylated, in particular N-acetylated, corresponding to the chitosan polymer of formula:

[0040] with n as defined previously.

[0041] The chitosan(s) capable of being used in the context of the invention have a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) less than or equal to 3000 Da, better still less than or equal to 2500 Da, even better less than or equal to 2000 Da, and preferably less than or equal to 1500 Da.

[0042] Advantageously, the chitosan(s) have a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) ranging from 300 to 3000 Da, in particular from 450 to 2500 Da, even better from 600 to 2000 Da, preferentially from 750 to 1500 Da.

[0043] The weight average molecular weight can be determined by any known method, for example by SEC (size exclusion chromatography) also called gel permeation chromatography, for example according to standard ASTM D5296-19.

[0044] The composition according to the invention comprises the chitosan(s) in a content of at least 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.3 to 4% by weight, even better still from 0.4 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] The chitosan(s) may be present in salified form or not in the composition according to the invention.

[0046] Preferably, the chitosan(s) are used in salified form, for example using one or more organic or mineral acids, preferably using one or more organic acids. Thus, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more acids, in particular chosen from organic acids, mineral acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0047] As mineral acid, mention may be made of hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, sulfuric acid, alone or in a mixture.

[0048] As organic acid, we can cite, alone or in mixture:

[0049] - monocarboxylic acids of formula R-COOH in which R represents a (hetero)aryl radical such as phenyl, a (hetero)aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl radical such as benzyl, a (Ci-C30)alkyl radical or an unsaturated C2-C30 radical (= comprising at least one ethylenic unsaturation, preferably one ethylenic unsaturation); said alkyl or unsaturated C2-C30 radicals being optionally interrupted and / or optionally substituted, preferably by one or more hydroxyl groups and unsubstituted by one or more amino radicals; R preferably denoting a (Ci-C6)alkyl group optionally interrupted and / or optionally substituted by 1, 2 or 3 hydroxyl groups, preferably R represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl or ethyl;

[0050] - polycarboxylic acids of formula:

[0051] in which A represents a polyvalent hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen and / or optionally substituted in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups and t represents an integer between 1 and 5 inclusive;

[0052] preferably A represents a divalent (Ci-C6)alkylene group optionally substituted in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups and not substituted by at least t amino radicals, and t is 1, 2 or 3; and

[0053] - amino acids containing more carboxylic acid radicals (COOH) than of amino groups (NH2).

[0054] Preferably, the monocarboxylic acids are chosen from acetic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof; preferentially from acetic acid, lactic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0055] Preferably, the polycarboxylic acids are chosen from tartaric acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, citric acid and mixtures thereof.

[0056] Preferably, the amino acids comprising more carboxylic acid radicals than amino groups are chosen from gamma-carboxyglutamic acid, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, and mixtures thereof; preferentially gamma-carboxyglutamic acid.

[0057] Preferably, the organic acid(s) which can be used are chosen from acetic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, citric acid, gamma-carboxyglutamic acid, aspartic acid, glutamic acid and mixtures thereof; preferably, the organic acid is lactic acid.

[0058] When they are present, the composition according to the invention comprises said acid(s), in particular organic and / or mineral, preferably in a content which can range from 0.01 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants

[0059] The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants and / or one or more amphoteric surfactants.

[0060] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants and one or more amphoteric surfactants. 1 / Anionic surfactants

[0061] The cosmetic composition can therefore comprise one or more anionic surfactants.

[0062] Anionic surfactant is understood to mean a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.

[0063] In the present description, an entity is described as being "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium, pH for example) and not comprising a cationic charge.

[0064] The anionic surfactants can be sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. A mixture of these surfactants can of course be used. They are non-silicone.

[0065] It is understood in this description that:

[0066] - the carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one car- function carboxylic or carboxylate (-COOH or -COO), and may optionally further comprise one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functions;

[0067] - the anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), and may optionally further comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise a carboxylate function; and

[0068] - the anionic sulfate surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not include a carboxylate or sulfonate function.

[0069] The carboxylic anionic surfactants that can be used therefore comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO).

[0070] They may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyl-lactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl (C6-30 aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; as well as the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0071] It is also possible to use C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, and their salts.

[0072] Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds proposed by the company KAO under the names AKYPO,

[0073] The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids capable of being used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1):

[0074] Rr-(OC2H4)n-OCH2COOA (1)

[0075] in which:

[0076] - Rr represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a alkyl(C8-C9)phenyl radical, a radical R2 CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2 denoting a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical in C9-C21; preferably Rr is a C8-C20, preferably C8-C18, alkyl radical;

[0077] - n' is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24, of preference from 2 to 10,

[0078] - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue. nolamine.

[0079] Mixtures of compounds of formula (1) may also be used, in particular mixtures of compounds having different Rr groups.

[0080] The particularly preferred polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are those of formula (1) in which:

[0081] - Rr denotes a linear or branched C8-C22 alkyl radical, in particular C10-C16, or even C12-C14, or an alkyl(C8-C9)phenyl radical;

[0082] - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

[0083] - n' varies from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.

[0084] Even more preferably, compounds of formula (1) are used in which Ri denotes a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or oc-tylphenyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n' varies from 2 to 10.

[0085] Among the commercial products, it is preferable to use the products sold by the company KAO under the names:

[0086] AKYPO® NP 70 (R1=nonylphenyl, n=7, A=H)

[0087] AKYPO® NP 40 (R1=nonylphenyl, n=4, A=H)

[0088] AKYPO®OP 40 (R1=octylphenyl, n=4, A=H)

[0089] AKYPO® OP 80 (R1=octylphenyl, n=8, A=H)

[0090] AKYPO® OP 190 (R1=octylphenyl, n=19, A=H)

[0091] AKYPO® RLM 38 (R1=C12-C14 alkyl, n=4, A=H)

[0092] AKYPO® RLM 38 NV (R1=C12-C14 alkyl, n=4, A=Na)

[0093] AKYPO® RLM 45 CA (R1=Ci2-Ci4 alkyl, n=4.5, A=H)

[0094] AKYPO® RLM 45 NV (Ri=Ci2-Ci4 alkyl, n=4.5, A=Na)

[0095] AKYPO® RLM 100 (Ri=Ci2-Ci4 alkyl, n=10, A=H)

[0096] AKYPO® RLM 100 NV (Ri=Ci2-Ci4 alkyl, n=10, A=Na)

[0097] AKYPO® RLM 130 (Ri=Ci2-Ci4 alkyl, n=13, A=H)

[0098] AKYPO® RLM 160 NV (R1=C12-C14 alkyl, n=16, A=Na),

[0099] or by the company SANDOZ under the names:

[0100] SANDOPAN DTC-Acid (R1=C13 alkyl, n=6, A=H)

[0101] SANDOPAN DTC (R1=C13 alkyl, n=6, A=Na)

[0102] SANDOPAN LS 24 (R1=C12-C14 alkyl, n=12, A=Na)

[0103] SANDOPAN JA 36 (R1=C13 alkyl, n=18, A=H),

[0104] and more particularly, the products sold under the following names:

[0105] AKYPO® RLM 45 (INCI: Laureth-5 carboxylic acid)

[0106] AKYPO®RLM 100

[0107] AKYPO® RLM 38.

[0108] Preferably, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

[0109] - acylglutamates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as stearoyl- glutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;

[0110] - acylsarcosinates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as palmi- toylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;

[0111] - acyllactylates, particularly C12-C28, or even C14-C24, such as behe- noyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;

[0112] - C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular C12-C20;

[0113] - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, and in particular alkyl(C12-C20)ethercar- carboxylates; in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0114] - polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-C24)amidoether carboxylic acids, in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0115] in particular in acid form or in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohol.

[0116] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more acylsarcosinates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as palmitoylsarcosinates and lauroylsarcosinates, as well as their salts; and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate and / or sodium lauroylsarcosinate.

[0117] The anionic sulfonate surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3). They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylethersulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefinsulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as the salts of these compounds;

[0118] the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0119] these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0120] Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

[0121] - C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, in particular C12-C20,

[0122] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20, especially lauryl- sulfosuccinates.

[0123] - C6-C24 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20;

[0124] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates,

[0125] - C6-C24 alkylsulfoacetates, in particular C12-C20,

[0126] in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0127] The anionic sulfate surfactants that can be used comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3).

[0128] They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceridesulfates; as well as the salts of these compounds;

[0129] the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0130] these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0131] Preferably, the anionic sulfate surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

[0132] - alkyl sulfates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, and

[0133] - alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, comprising preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

[0134] in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0135] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.

[0136] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned are mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane.

[0137] Preferably, salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

[0138] Preferably, the anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture,

[0139] - C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, especially C12-C20,

[0140] - C6-C24, especially C12-C20, alkyl ether sulfates; comprising preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

[0141] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20, especially lauryl- sulfosuccinates;

[0142] - C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, in particular C12-C20,

[0143] - C6-C24 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;

[0144] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates,

[0145] - C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, especially C12-C20; especially palmitoyl- sarcosinates and lauroylsarcosinates;

[0146] - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, preferably alkyl(C12-C20)ethercarboxylates; in particular those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0147] - polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-C24)amidoethercarboxylic acids and their salts, in in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene;

[0148] - C6-C24 acylglutamates, in particular C12-C20;

[0149] - C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular C12-C20;

[0150] - C6-C24 alkylsulfoacetates, in particular C12-C20,

[0151] in particular in acid form or in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0152] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic sulfate surfactants, preferably chosen from C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, in particular C12-C20, C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C12-C20, ethers preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, as well as the salts of these compounds, and their mixtures; more preferably C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, in particular C12-C20.

[0153] The anionic surfactant(s) are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a total amount ranging from 2 to 30% by weight, in particular from 3 to 25% by weight, better still from 4 to 20% by weight, even better still from 5 to 15% by weight, even better still from 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0154] The anionic surfactant(s) chosen from C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, in particular C12-C20, C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C12-C20, ethers preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, as well as the salts of these compounds, and their mixtures, are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a total amount ranging from 2 to 30% by weight, in particular from 3 to 25% by weight, better still from 4 to 20% by weight, even better still from 5 to 15% by weight, even better still from 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 2 / Amphoteric surfactants

[0155] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more amphoteric surfactants. By amphoteric surfactant is meant amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant.

[0156] In particular, the amphoteric surfactant(s) are non-silicone. They may in particular be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0157] Mention may be made in particular of alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and alkyl(C8-C20)-amidalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines.

[0158] Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of the following respective structures (II) and (III):

[0159] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO, M+, X (II)

[0160] in which:

[0161] - Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in the hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

[0162] - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and

[0163] - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

[0164] - M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali, alkaline earth metal, such as than sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine, and

[0165] - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen among the halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent;

[0166] Ra -CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (III)

[0167] in which:

[0168] - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX';

[0169] - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2;

[0170] - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2 - COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;

[0171] - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z' ;

[0172] - Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as than sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine;

[0173] - Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra -COOH of preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group.

[0174] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoampho-dipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylampho-dipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodi-propionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0175] As an example, we can cite cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

[0176] Compounds of formula (IV) can also be used:

[0177] Ra-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (IV)

[0178] in which:

[0179] - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z” ;

[0180] - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent an alkyl or hy- radical C1-C4 droxyalkyl;

[0181] - Z” represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion from an organic amine;

[0182] - R, represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra—COOH of preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil;

[0183] - n and n', independently of each other, denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

[0184] Among the compounds of formula (II) we may cite the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

[0185] These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.

[0186] Among the amphoteric surfactants, preferably used are alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as coca-midopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof, and compounds of formula (IV) such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl lauryl amino succinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).

[0187] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine and mixtures thereof; better still from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines such as cocobetaine.

[0188] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better still ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even better still from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0189] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof are present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better still ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even better still from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0190] As indicated previously, preferably the composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants and one or more amphoteric surfactants.

[0191] Preferably, the total content of anionic and amphoteric surfactants may range from 2 to 30% by weight, better still from 3 to 25% by weight, even better still from 4 to 20% by weight, even better still from 5 to 15% by weight, even better still from 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Nonionic surfactants

[0192] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants, in particular such as those described in “Handbook of Surfactants” by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.

[0193] As examples of non-ionic surfactants, the following compounds may be mentioned, alone or in a mixture:

[0194] - oxyalkylenated alkyl(C8-C24)phenols;

[0195] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, they preferably contain one or two fatty chains;

[0196] - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxy alkylenated;

[0197] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of polyethyl- lene glycols;

[0198] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol of preferably oxyethylenated;

[0199] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and (po-ly)glycerol;

[0200] - esters of fatty acids and sucrose,

[0201] - alkyl(C8-C3o)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, even actually oxyalkylenated and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, alkyl esters (C8 -C30)(poly)glucosides,

[0202] - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not;

[0203] - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates;

[0204] - N-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and N-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine derivatives;

[0205] - amine oxides.

[0206] The oxyalkylenated units are more particularly oxyethylenated, oxypropylenated units, or their combination, preferably oxyethylenated.

[0207] The number of moles of ethylene and / or propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100; better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges in particular from 1 to 50, better still from 1 to 10.

[0208] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise oxypropylenated units.

[0209] Preferably, they comprise a number of moles of ethylene oxide ranging from 1 to 250, in particular from 2 to 100, better still from 2 to 50.

[0210] As an example of glycerolated nonionic surfactants, C8 to C40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol, are preferably used.

[0211] As examples of compounds of this type, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLY-GLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleyl alcohol containing 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 moles of glycerol.

[0212] Among the glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the C8 to C10 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, the C10 to C12 alcohol with one mole of glycerol and the C12 alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol.

[0213] As an example of esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of (poly)glycerol, use is preferably made of esters of C8 to C30 acids, better still C10-C24, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol.

[0214] The non-ionic surfactant(s) capable of being used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

[0215] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide; they preferably comprise one or two fatty chains;

[0216] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and (po-ly)glycerol;

[0217] - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not, comprising from 1 to 100 moles ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50;

[0218] - alkyl(C8-C3o)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably of 0 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units;

[0219] - C8 to C40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol;

[0220] - amides of C8 to C30 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxy alkylenated;

[0221] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of poly ethylene glycols;

[0222] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated.

[0223] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

[0224] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains, in particular at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain, in particular C10-C18;

[0225] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and (po-ly)glycerol, in particular monoglyceryl oleate and / or polyglyceryl caprates, in particular PG-4 caprate;

[0226] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated, and

[0227] - alkyl(C8-C3o)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably comprising from 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units.

[0228] In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type of formula R10-(R2O)t-(G)v

[0229] in which:

[0230] - RI represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical contains 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms; preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0231] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0232] - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably the glucose, fructose or galactose; even better glucose;

[0233] -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, better still from 0 to 3, still better 0 ;

[0234] - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of po lymerization (v) being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0235] The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type.

[0236] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant.

[0237] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

[0238] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and (po-ly)glycerol and

[0239] - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably comprising from 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units.

[0240] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the non-ionic surfactant(s), when present, in a total content ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polyols

[0241] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more polyols.

[0242] By "polyol" is meant a polyhydric alcohol, that is to say a hydrocarbon chain comprising two or more hydroxyl groups (-OH). The polyol can have an aliphatic or cyclic or even aromatic molecular structure, linear or branched, it can be saturated or unsaturated.

[0243] Preferably, said polyol(s) are linear and saturated; they may comprise from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups (-OH), in particular from 2 to 4, better still from 2 to 3, preferentially 2 hydroxyl groups (-OH).

[0244] They can comprise from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0245] They do not include oxyalkylenated or glycerolated groups.

[0246] They are advantageously liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1 atm).

[0247] Preferably, the polyols according to the invention comprise 2 or 3 -OH groups (diols or triols) and 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and are linear and saturated.

[0248] Preferably, they can be chosen from propylene glycol (propane 1,2-diol), propane 1,3-diol, butylene glycol (butane 1,3-diol), butane 2,3-diol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol (pentane 1,2-diol), glycerol, and mixtures thereof. Very preferably, the polyol is glycerol.

[0249] When they are present, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises said polyol(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 15% by weight, or even from 1 to 10% by weight, preferentially from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Other ingredients

[0250] The composition according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; and mixtures thereof.

[0251] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises water in a total content of between 60 and 98% by weight, preferably between 65 and 95% by weight, preferentially between 70 and 92% by weight, even better between 80 and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0252] The pH of the composition according to the invention generally varies from 3 to 9, preferably from 3.5 to 7, preferentially from 4 to 6, and better still from 5 to 6.

[0253] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more usual cosmetic ingredients, in particular chosen from conditioning agents, polymeric or not; mention may in particular be made of silicones, organomodified or not, such as amino silicones; vegetable, mineral or synthetic oils; liquid fatty alcohols; liquid fatty esters; solid fatty substances and in particular waxes, solid fatty esters, solid fatty alcohols, ceramides; sunscreens; moisturizing agents; anti-dandruff agents, antioxidant agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizing or coalescing agents; preservatives; sequestering agents; coloring matters. The composition may of course comprise several cosmetic ingredients appearing in the list above.The person skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition, as well as their quantities, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0254] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention does not comprise silicone. By silicone is meant any compound comprising a silicon atom.

[0255] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any cationic polymer other than the chitosan(s) mentioned above. The term “cationic polymer” means any polymer comprising cationic groups and / or groups ionizable into cationic groups, and in particular polymers ca tionic compounds containing units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which may either be part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a side substituent directly linked to it.

[0256] Very advantageously, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any silicone or cationic polymer other than chitosans.

[0257] “Does not include” means that the content is less than or equal to 0.01% by weight, and preferably equal to 0.

[0258] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0259] - one or more anionic sulfate surfactants, preferably chosen from al- C6-C24, especially C12-C20, alkyl sulfates, C6-C24, especially C12-C20, alkyl ether sulfates, ethers preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, as well as the salts of these compounds, and mixtures thereof; more preferably C6-C24, especially C12-C20, alkyl sulfates; especially in a total amount ranging from 2 to 30% by weight, especially from 3 to 25% by weight, better still from 4 to 20% by weight, even better still from 5 to 15% by weight, even better still from 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0260] - one or more amphoteric surfactants chosen from alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof, in particular in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better still ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even better still from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0261] - optionally one or more non-ionic surfactants of type (alkyl C6-C24)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (alkyl C8-C18)(poly)glycosides;

[0262] - one or more chitosans, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% in weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.3 to 4% by weight, even better still from 0.4 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0263] The compositions according to the invention can be used as shampoos for washing and / or conditioning hair; they can preferably be applied to damp hair in amounts effective for washing it; the foam generated by massage or friction with the hands can then be removed after a possible pause time, by rinsing with water, the operation being able to be repeated one or more times.

[0264] Another subject of the present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process, preferably hair treatment, in particular for washing and / or conditioning keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said materials of a composition as defined above, optionally followed by a leave-on time and / or rinsing and / or drying.

[0265] The composition can be applied to dry or wet hair, and preferably to wet or damp hair.

[0266] Preferably, the method consists of applying to the materials, in particular keratinous fibers, an effective amount of the composition according to the invention, optionally kneading the fibers, optionally leaving the composition to remain on said materials or fibers, and rinsing.

[0267] The application time of the composition may be between a few seconds and 15 minutes and preferably between 30 seconds and 5 minutes. The composition is generally rinsed with water.

[0268] A possible step of drying the keratin materials, or fibers, can be implemented.

[0269] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples

[0270] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention B and C, the comparative composition A (outside the invention) and the reference composition R (outside the invention) are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the quantities of which are expressed in % by weight of active ingredient (AI).

[0271] [Tables 1] A (comp) R (ref) BC Sodium lauryl sulfate 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 Coco-betaine 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 Polyglyceryl-4 caprate 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Glyceryl oleate 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Coco-glucoside 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Chitosan Mw < 3000 - - 0.9 1.3 Cationic guar - 0.4 - - Glycerol 3 3 3 3 NaCl 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Preservatives Qs Qs Qs Qs pH agent Qs pH 5.3 Qs pH 5.3 Qs pH 5.3 Qs pH 5.3 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100

[0272] Hair compositions are obtained which can be used as shampoos.

[0273] The sensory performance provided by the compositions according to the invention is evaluated on wet hair and dried hair, in comparison with those provided by the comparative composition and the reference composition.

[0274] The evaluation is carried out on 5.4 g strands of Caucasian hair, sensitized by a bleaching treatment (SA20). The strands are previously cleaned with a standard shampoo (DOP CAMOMILLE) at a rate of 0.3 g / g of hair, rinsed and dried.

[0275] The composition to be tested is then applied to the strands at a rate of 0.3 g / g of hair, kneaded and lathered, then the strands are rinsed with water for 15 seconds (flow rate = 300 1 / h, water temperature 35°C). The evaluation is carried out on damp hair.

[0276] Then the strands are dried using a hair dryer and the evaluation is carried out on dry hair.

[0277] The following criteria are evaluated:

[0278] - on damp hair: smooth feel;

[0279] - on dry hair: coating and suppleness.

[0280] The composition R is taken as a reference and its evaluation is placed at the basic level (= 0).

[0281] The other compositions are evaluated in comparison with composition R, blindly, by 5 evaluators.

[0282] A score of 0 is given for comparable performance.

[0283] A score of (+ / -) 0.5 is given for close performance.

[0284] A score of (+ / -) 1 is given for significantly different performance.

[0285] A rating of (+ / -) 2 is given for significantly very poor performance. different.

[0286] The + sign indicates performance above the reference and the - sign indicates performance below the reference.

[0287] Detangling on dry hair is also evaluated, the evaluation being carried out blindly by 5 evaluators, who give a score ranging from 0 (very bad) to 5 (very good), in steps of 0.5.

[0288] Smoothness assessment: The assessor takes a lock of hair at the root and slides it between the fingers along the entire length of the lock to the tips. The more uniform and homogeneous the hair is from root to tip, the fewer rough spots it has, the less it catches the fingers, the better the smoothness.

[0289] Evaluation of flexibility: the evaluator takes the hair in both hands and tries to bend it. The more easily the hair can be bent, curved, and the more malleable it is, the better the flexibility.

[0290] Coating assessment: the assessor takes the lock of hair in his hand, starts from the root, and slides down to the tips. The more deposit you feel on the fiber, the better the coating.

[0291] Detangling assessment: Detangling is assessed using a comb that the assessor slides from root to tip. The easier the comb slides, the better the detangling.

[0292] The following results are obtained (average):

[0293] [Tables2] A (comp) R (ref) BC Wet hair Smooth touch -1 0 0 0 Dry hair Suppleness -1 0 1 0 Coating -1 0 0 1 Dry hair Detangling NA 1.5 2.2 3.4

[0294] NA = not evaluated

[0295] It is noted that the presence of chitosan in the compositions makes it possible to obtain good cosmetic properties, at least equivalent to those obtained with a composition comprising a cationic polysaccharide.

Claims

1.

2. Claims Cosmetic composition, preferably hair composition, comprising: - one or more surfactants chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof, and - one or more chitosans having a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) less than or equal to 3000 Da, present in a total content of at least 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the chitosan(s) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to the following formula (A), as well as their organic or mineral acid salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures:

3. in which: - R' represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl; - p is strictly greater than 0 and goes up to 0.5 (inclusive), preferably goes from 0.001 to 0.3, better from 0.01 to 0.2, and even better from 0.02 to 0.1; - m is strictly less than 1, and goes up to 0.5 (inclusive), preferably goes from 0.7 to 0.98, better from 0.8 to 0.97, even better from 0.85 to 0.95; it being understood that m+p=l; and - n is an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably between 2 and 25, better still between 3 and 22, even better still between 5 and 20, or even between 5 and 18. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the chitosan(s) have a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) less than or equal to 2500 Da, even better still less than or equal to 2000 Da, and preferentially less than or equal to 1500 Da; in particular a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) ranging from 300 to 3000 Da, in particular from 450 to 2500 Da, even better still ranging from 600 to 2000 Da, preferentially ranging from 750 to 1500 Da.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the chitosan(s) in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.3 to 4% by weight, even better still from 0.4 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more acids, in particular chosen from organic acids, mineral acids, and mixtures thereof; and in particular from monocarboxylic acids such as acetic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof; and / or from polycarboxylic acids such as tartaric acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, citric acid and mixtures thereof; and / or from amino acids comprising more carboxylic acid radicals than amino groups, such as gamma-carboxyglutamic acid, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, and mixtures thereof.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more acids, in particular chosen from organic acids, mineral acids, and their mixtures, in a content of 0.01 to 5% by weight, in particular of 0.05 to 3% by weight, better still of 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more anionic surfactants and one or more amphoteric surfactants.

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from, alone or as a mixture, sulfate anionic surfactants, preferably from C6-C24, in particular C12-C20, alkyl sulfates, C6-C24, in particular C12-C20, alkyl ether sulfates, ethers preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, as well as the salts of these compounds, and their mixtures; more preferably C6-C24, in particular C12-C20, alkyl sulfates; in particular in acid form or as salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the anionic surfactant(s) are present in a total amount ranging from 2 to 30% by weight, in particular from 3 to 25% by weight, better still from 4 to 20% by weight, even better still from 5 to 15% by weight, even better still from 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising a or several amphoteric surfactants chosen from, alone or as a mixture, secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group; alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and alkyl(C8-C20)amidalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines; better chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopro-pylbetaine, and mixtures thereof, and compounds of formula (IV): Ra”-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (IV) in which: - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z”;- Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent a C1 to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; - Z” represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; - R., represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R., -COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil; - n and n', independently of each other, denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3; such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl lauryl amino succinamate.;

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the amphoteric surfactant(s) at a total content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better still ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even better still from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more non-ionic surfactants, in particular chosen from, alone or as a mixture: - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyethyleneated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of oxide of ethylene and comprising one or two fatty chains, in particular at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain, in particular C10-C18; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of (poly)glycerol, in particular monoglyceryl oleate and / or poly-glyceryl caprates, in particular PG-4 caprate; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated, and - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably comprising from 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more polyols, in particular chosen from linear and saturated polyols comprising 2 to 6 carbon atoms and 2 or 3 -OH groups; better chosen from propylene glycol, propane 1,3-diol, butylene glycol, butane 2,3-diol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising water, in particular in a total content of between 60 and 98% by weight, preferably between 65 and 95% by weight, preferentially between 70 and 92% by weight, even better between 80 and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, not comprising silicone and / or no cationic polymer other than chitosan(s).

16. Cosmetic treatment process, preferably hair treatment, in particular for washing and / or conditioning keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said materials of a composition as defined according to one of the preceding claims, optionally followed by a leave-on time and / or rinsing and / or drying.