CARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS

Abstract

COMPOSITION FOR CARE AND / OR MAKE-UP OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS The present invention relates to a silicone-free composition, preferably for care and / or makeup of keratinous material, comprising: (i) at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid; (ii) at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from C14-C22 fatty acid glyceryl esters, C14-C22 fatty acid polyoxyethylenated esters, and mixtures thereof; (iii) at least one polymer A chosen from acrylic polymers; (iv) at least one oil chosen from alkanes, C8-C50 fatty esters, C8-C12 fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof; and (v) at least one C-glycoside. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for care and / or makeup of keratinous materials. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: CARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a silicone-free composition. The present invention further relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The development of cosmetic products dedicated to the care and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips is ongoing.

[0003] Different cosmetic products will include different cosmetic active ingredients depending on the desired use.

[0004] Certain products for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials have a lamellar structure.

[0005] When a product with a lamellar structure is applied, it is very likely to generate a white trace or a soapy appearance which is perceived as a symbol of poor absorption of the product. Traditionally, silicone is effective in reducing the soapy appearance. However, silicone-free products are more desired by some consumers.

[0006] Therefore, it is desirable to have silicone-free products for the care and / or make-up of keratinous materials, which have a good anti-soapy effect. Summary of the invention

[0007] The object of the present invention is to develop silicone-free products for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, which have a good anti-soapy effect.

[0008] The present invention also aims to provide a non-therapeutic process for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials with the above compositions.

[0009] Consequently, in a first aspect, the present invention relates to a silicone-free composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous material, comprising:

[0010] (i) at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid;

[0011] (ii) at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from C14-C22 fatty acid glyceryl esters, C14-C22 fatty acid polyoxyethylene esters, and mixtures thereof;

[0012] (iii) at least one polymer A chosen from acrylic polymers;

[0013] (iv) at least one oil chosen from alkanes, C8-C50 fatty esters, C8-C12 fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof; and

[0014] (v) at least one C-glycoside.

[0015] The inventors have found that the composition of the present invention has a good anti-soapy effect.

[0016] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention has a lamellar structure.

[0017] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous materials.

[0018] Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. Brief description of the drawings

[0019] Implementations of the present invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying figures, in which:

[0020] [Fig-1] [Fig.l] shows the intensity rating standards for appearance films soapy obtained from the test compositions. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0021] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art in the field to which the present invention pertains. Where the definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art in the field to which the present invention pertains, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0022] In the following and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0023] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0024] The expression "and / or" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or both" of the elements indicated.

[0025] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to encompass all of the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0026] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing an amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless otherwise specified, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​which, if necessary, can be changed depending on the desired objective.

[0027] As used herein, the term "keratinous materials" refers to the skin and lips. By "skin" is meant all skin of the body, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratinous material is facial skin.

[0028] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.

[0029] The silicone-free composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0030] (i) at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid;

[0031] (ii) at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from C14-C22 fatty acid glyceryl esters, C14-C22 fatty acid polyoxyethylene esters, and mixtures thereof;

[0032] (iii) at least one polymer A chosen from acrylic polymers;

[0033] (iv) at least one oil chosen from alkanes, C8-C50 fatty esters, C8-C12 fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof; and

[0034] (v) at least one C-glycoside. Saturated C14-C22 fatty acids

[0035] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid.

[0036] Examples of saturated C14-C22 fatty acids include myristic acid, pentadecanoic acid, palmitic acid, heptadecanoic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, and combinations thereof.

[0037] Preferably, the fatty acid is chosen from saturated C14-C18 fatty acids.

[0038] More preferably, the fatty acid is chosen from linear and saturated C14-C18 fatty acids.

[0039] Even more preferably, the fatty acid is chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and combinations thereof.

[0040] Advantageously, the saturated C14-C22 fatty acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 3% by weight to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Nonionic surfactants

[0041] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from C14-C22 fatty acid glyceryl esters, polyoxyethylene esters of C14-C22 fatty acids and mixtures thereof.

[0042] As used herein, C14-C22 fatty acid glyceryl ester means an ester of glycerol and a C14-C22 fatty acid, the C14-C22 fatty acid may be an unsaturated or saturated, linear or branched acid, for example, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid and / or myristic acid.

[0043] Examples of C14-C22 fatty acid glyceryl ester include glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl arachidate, glyceryl behenate and mixtures thereof.

[0044] As used herein, the polyoxyethylene C14-C22 fatty acid ester is an ester of polyethylene glycol and a C14-C22 fatty acid.

[0045] Preferably, the polyethylene glycol comprises from 1 to 200 oxyethylene groups, more preferably comprises from 10 to 150 oxyethylene groups, most preferably comprises from 20 to 100 oxyethylene groups.

[0046] For alkylglucosides, mention may be made of glucose ethers and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, i.e. C8-C24 alkylglucosides, for example decylglucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, laurylglucoside, coco-glucoside, cetostearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, or mixtures thereof.

[0047] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from glyceryl esters of a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid, polyethylene glycol esters comprising from 10 to 150 oxyethylene groups and of a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid, C8-C24 alkylglucosides, and combinations thereof.

[0048] More preferably still, the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl myristate, esters of polyethylene glycol comprising from 20 to 100 oxyethylene groups and of a C14-C22 fatty acid chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid, C12-C24 alkylglucosides, and combinations thereof.

[0049] Even more preferably, the surfactant is chosen from glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, arachidyl glucoside, and one of their mixtures.

[0050] Most preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises a combination of glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate and arachidyl glucoside.

[0051] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.2% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.4% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.8% by weight to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.8% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] It has been discovered with the combination of at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid and of at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from a C14-C22 fatty acid glyceryl ester, a C14-C22 fatty acid polyoxyethylene ester, alkylglucosides, and mixtures thereof, that the composition according to the present invention may have a lamellar structure, the structure being able to help increase the viscosity of the composition and increase the stability of the composition.

[0053] Preferably, the weight ratio between the at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid and the at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from a glyceryl ester of a C14-C22 fatty acid, a polyoxyethylenated ester of a C14-C22 fatty acid, alkylglucosides and mixtures thereof, is equal to or less than 6, preferably equal to or less than 4, more preferably from 0.2 to 4, even more preferably from 0.5 to 4, most preferably from 1 to 4. Acrylic polymers

[0054] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polymer A chosen from acrylic polymers.

[0055] Preferably, polymer A is chosen from acrylic homopolymers.

[0056] More preferably, polymer A is chosen from polyacrylic acid salts.

[0057] Even more preferably, polymer A is chosen from metal salts of polyacrylic acids.

[0058] The polyacrylic acid salts can be partially or completely neutralized.

[0059] More preferably, polymer A is chosen from sodium, potassium and lithium salts of polyacrylic acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0060] The most preferred salt of polyacrylic acid is sodium polyacrylate.

[0061] Sodium polyacrylates are acrylic homopolymers in partially or fully neutralized form, and they are hydrophilic.

[0062] Sodium polyacrylate is, for example, marketed under the name COVACRYL MV60 by the company SENSIENT.

[0063] The inventors have discovered that the presence of polymer A can enhance the stability of the composition.

[0064] Advantageously, the polymer A chosen from acrylic polymers is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.3% by weight to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils

[0065] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least an oil selected from alkanes, C8-C50 fatty esters, C8-C12 fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

[0066] The term "oil" means a non-aqueous, water-immiscible compound that is liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0067] The oils may be volatile oils or non-volatile oils.

[0068] The expression “volatile oil” designates any oil which has the capacity to evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0069] The term "non-volatile" refers to an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 103 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0070] The term “alkane” designates any compound comprising a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, consisting exclusively of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms.

[0071] Preferably, the alkanes are linear or branched C8-C20 alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane.

[0072] The C8-C50 fatty esters are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0073] Preferably, for the C8-C50 fatty esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid, from which the esters of the present invention are derived, is branched.

[0074] These esters may be, for example, adipates, sebacates, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof.

[0075] More preferably, the C8-C50 fatty esters are chosen from diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, ethylhexyl olivate and their mixture; most preferably chosen from diisopropyl sebacate, ethylhexyl olivate and their mixture.

[0076] The fatty alcohol is preferably chosen from C8-C10 fatty alcohols, more preferably the fatty alcohol is octanol.

[0077] Preferably, the oil is chosen from branched alkanes containing from 8 to 20 carbon atoms; liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10; C8-Ci2 fatty alcohols; and mixtures thereof.

[0078] More preferably, the oil is chosen from isododecane, isohexadecane, diisopropyl sebacate, ethylhexyl olivate and mixtures thereof; even more preferably, is chosen from isododecane, isohexadecane and mixtures thereof; most preferably is isododecane.

[0079] Advantageously, the oil is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 4% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. C-glycosides

[0080] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one C-glycoside.

[0081] Preferably, the C-glycoside is chosen from the compounds of formula (I): X—R (I) ç-- /

[0082] in which:

[0083] - R represents a saturated C1-C10, preferably C1-C4, alkyl radical which can be optionally substituted by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR"2, R"2 being a saturated C1-C4 alkyl radical,

[0084] - S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, preferably up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, wherein said monosaccharide or polysaccharide may be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional groups, and

[0085] - X represents a radical chosen from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, - CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and preferably a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more preferably a radical -CH(OH)-,

[0086] the S-CH2-X bond represents a bond of C-anomeric nature, which can be a or [3,

[0087] as well as their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates and their optical and geometric isomers.

[0088] The C-glycosides used for the implementation of the invention are preferably those for which R denotes a saturated linear alkyl radical in C1-C6, preferably in C1-C4, more preferably in C1-C2 and even more preferably, a methyl radical.

[0089] Among the alkyl groups suitable for implementing the invention, mention may be made of methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec- butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl.

[0090] According to one embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use a C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) for which S can represent a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide having at least one necessarily free hydroxyl functional group and / or optionally one or more necessarily protected amine functional groups, X and R moreover retaining all the definitions above.

[0091] Advantageously, a monosaccharide of the invention may be chosen from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose or L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and advantageously denotes D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose and preferably D-xylose.

[0092] More preferably, a polysaccharide of the invention comprising up to 6 sugar units may be chosen from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a disaccharide combining a uronic acid chosen from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine chosen from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide comprising at least one xylose which may advantageously be chosen from xylobiose, methyl-[3-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose, and preferably xylobiose, which is composed of two xylose molecules linked via a 1-4 bond.

[0093] More preferably, S can represent a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose or D-maltose and preferably D-xylose.

[0094] Preferably, a C-glycoside of formula (I) is used for which:

[0095] - R denotes a linear unsubstituted C1-C4 alkyl radical, preferably C1-C2, in particular a methyl radical;

[0096] - S represents a monosaccharide as described above and preferably chosen among D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and more preferably D-xylose;

[0097] - X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and, preferably a -CH(OH)- group.

[0098] Acceptable salts of the compounds described in the present invention include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. Examples include salts of inorganic acids such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid. Also included are salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more carbonic acid groups. carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid. Examples include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.

[0099] When the compound of formula (I) comprises an acid group, the neutralization of the acid group(s) may be carried out with an inorganic base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH)2, NH4OH, Mg(OH)2 or Zn(OH)2, or with an organic base, such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and may therefore comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functional groups; mention may be made of 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2-(dimethylamino)propanol or 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol. Mention may also be made of lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine.

[0100] Solvates that are acceptable for the compounds described in the present invention include conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final stage of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Examples include solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.

[0101] Of course, according to the invention, a C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) can be used alone or mixed with other C-glycosides and in any proportion.

[0102] A C-glycoside suitable for the invention can be obtained by the synthesis method described in document WO 02 / 051828.

[0103] By way of non-limiting illustration of the C-glycoside compounds which are suitable for the invention, the following compounds may be cited:

[0104] - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0105] - C-a-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0106] - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0107] - C-a-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0108] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,

[0109] - l-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,

[0110] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, [OUI] - l-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,

[0112] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0113] - l-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0114] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0115] - l-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0116] - l-(C-[3-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0117] - l-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0118] - l-(C-[3-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0119] - l-(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0120] - l-(C-[3-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0121] - l-(CaD-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0122] - l-(C-[3-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0123] - l-(CaL-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0124] - CPD-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0125] - CaD-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0126] - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0127] - CaD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers and their mixtures.

[0128] According to one embodiment, C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and better still C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane can be advantageously used for the preparation of a composition according to the invention.

[0129] According to a specific embodiment, the C-glycoside may be C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane (or hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol) provided as a solution containing 70% by weight of active substance in water and propylene glycol.

[0130] Advantageously, the C-glycoside is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% by weight to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% by weight to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0131] Optionally neutralized acrylic acid copolymers

[0132] Preferably, the composition of the present invention further comprises a polymer B selected from optionally neutralized acrylic acid copolymers having a hydrophobic fatty chain of 8 to 40 carbon atoms.

[0133] As used herein, the term "optionally neutralized acrylic acid copolymers" means that the acrylic acid copolymers are optionally partially or fully neutralized with a base such as ammonia, sodium hydroxide, or potassium hydroxide.

[0134] Polymer B is different from the previously mentioned polymer A.

[0135] Preferably, polymer B is chosen from optionally neutralized copolymers of:

[0136] at least one monomer of the following formula (1): ,..(1) k; V

[0137] in which Ri denotes H or CH3 or C2H5, i.e. the acid monomers acrylic or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid respectively, and

[0138] at least one monomer of unsaturated carboxylic acid alkyl ester type (Ci0-C30) which corresponds to the monomer of formula (2) below: (2)

[0139] in which R2 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5 (i.e. acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid units, and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH3 (methacrylate units) and R3 denotes a C10-C3O alkyl radical.

[0140] The alkyl esters (Cio-C3O) of unsaturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate and the corresponding methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.

[0141] According to a preferred embodiment, polymer B is crosslinked.

[0142] More preferably, copolymers resulting from the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:

[0143] (i) essentially acrylic acid,

[0144] (ii) an ester of formula (2) described above in which R2 denotes H or CH3 and R3 denotes an alkyl radical comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms,

[0145] (iii) a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylene unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divi-nylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide, and

[0146] (iv) optionally a base selected from ammonia, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and a combination thereof.

[0147] Among the copolymers of this type, those composed of 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by weight of Cio-C3O alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0% to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer or those composed of 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1% to 4% by weight of Cio-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, such as those described above, will be used more preferably, optionally the copolymers are partially or totally neutralized with a base such as ammonia, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

[0148] Preference is given to products sold by Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen™ TR-1, Pemulen™ TR-2, Carbopol 1382 and Carbopol EDT 2020.

[0149] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises an optionally neutralized acrylic acid copolymer selected from a sodium acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, an acrylic acid / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, and a combination thereof.

[0150] Advantageously, the polymer B is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.08% by weight to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrophobic powders

[0151] Preferably, the composition of the present invention further comprises a hydrophobic powder with a hydrophobic portion comprising a C1-C30 fatty chain.

[0152] Preferably, the hydrophobic powder is chosen from mineral particles coated with a C14-C30 fatty alcohol.

[0153] More preferably, the hydrophobic powder is chosen from mineral oxide particles coated with a C16-C22 fatty alcohol.

[0154] According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises silica coated with cetyl alcohol.

[0155] Advantageously, the hydrophilic hydrophobic powder is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.15% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0156] The composition of the present invention comprises a continuous aqueous phase.

[0157] Said aqueous phase is preferably present in an amount ranging from 10% in weight at 95% by weight, more preferably from 20% by weight to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0158] The continuous aqueous phase comprises water.

[0159] Water is preferably present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 10% by weight to 95% by weight, preferably from 50% by weight to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic active ingredients

[0160] The composition of the present invention may comprise an additional cosmetic active ingredient.

[0161] Examples of additional cosmetic active ingredients include niacinamide, panthenol and mixtures thereof.

[0162] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the amount of the cosmetic active ingredient based on the end use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0163] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, perfumes, preservatives, bactericides, additional surfactants, waxes; additional thickeners, pH adjusters, and mixtures thereof.

[0164] A person skilled in the art can adjust the amount of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to negatively impact the end use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0165] The composition according to the present invention is “silicone-free”, which means that the amount of silicone in the composition is less than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0166] Preferably, the amount of silicone in the composition is less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0167] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not comprise silicone. Where appropriate, the small amounts of silicone may be provided by ingredients of the composition which contain it in residual quantity but are not deliberately provided.

[0168] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a silicone-free composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0169] (i) from 3% by weight to 7% by weight of at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid chosen among myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and a combination thereof;

[0170] (ii) from 0.8% by weight to 3% by weight of at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, arachidyl glucoside and a mixture thereof;

[0171] (iii) from 0.5% by weight to 1% by weight of sodium polyacrylate;

[0172] (iv) from 4% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one oil chosen from alkanes branched containing 10 to 16 carbon atoms; and

[0173] (v) from 5% by weight to 15% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol. Preparation and use

[0174] The composition of the present invention can be prepared by conventional means in the art.

[0175] The composition of the present invention can be used for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials.

[0176] According to the second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention on keratinous materials.

[0177] Preferably, the keratinous material may be skin, for example facial skin. EXAMPLES

[0178] The following examples are given as non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

[0179] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0180] [Tables 1] Nom INCI Nom commercial Fournisseur Glyceryl stéarate (and) PEG-100 stéarate ARLACEL™ 165 CRODA Stearic acid EDENOR®ST 05MY Emery Oleochemicals Group Arachidyl glucoside MONTANOV 202 SEPPIC Sodium polyacrylate COVACRYL MV60 SENSIENT Beeswax CERABEIL LOR BAERLOCHER Isododecane Purolan IDD INEOS Oligomers Isohexadecane Isohexadecane INEOS Oligomers Silica (and) cetyl alcohol SUNSIL-OLEO20 SUNJIN BEAUTY SCIENCE CO. LTD Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer Pemulen™ TR-1 polymer Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc Carbomer CARBOPOL® 980 POLYMER Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc Hydroxypropyl tetrahy-dropyrantriol MEXORYL SCS NOVEAL Ethylhexyl olivate SENSOLENE® The HallStar Company Diisopropyl sebacate DUB DIS STEARINERIE DUBOIS

[0181] Exemples inventifs 1-7 et Exemples comparatifs 1-2

[0182] The compositions of Inventive Examples (EI) 1-7 and Comparative Examples (CE) 1-2 were prepared on the basis of the amounts given in Table 2. The amounts are given in % by weight of each ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0183] [Tables2] INCI EC. 1 EC. 2 El. 1 El. 2 El. 3 El. 4 El. 5 El. 6 El. 7 Arachidyl glucoside (active ingredient, MA) 0.5 MA 0.5 MA 0.5 MA 0.5 MA 0.5 MA 0.5 MA 0.5 MA 0.5 MA 0.5 MA Isododecane 5.0 Isohexadecane 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Diisopropyl sebacate 5.0 Ethylhexyl olivate 5.0 Stearic acid 5.2 5.2 5.2 5.2 5.2 4.4 4.4 5.2 5.2 Dicaprylyl ether 5.0 Silica (AND) Cetyl alcohol 0.3 Beeswax 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.2 1.2 1.4 1.4 Glyceryl stearate 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Sodium poly-acrylate 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 PEG-100 stearate 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Carbomer 0.2 0.2 Acrylates / C10-3 0 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.2 Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrant riol 10.5 10.5 10.5 10.5 10.5 10.5 10.5 10.5 10.5 Water QS10 0 QS10 0 QS10 0 QS10 0 QS10 0 QS10 0 QS10 0 QS10 0 QS10 0

[0184] The compositions of Inventive Examples 1-7 represent compositions according to the present invention.

[0185] The compositions of comparative examples 1 and 2 do not comprise at least one oil chosen from alkanes, C8-C50 fatty esters, C8-C12 fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

[0186] Preparation process:

[0187] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows:

[0188] 1. heating saturated C14-C22 fatty acid, nonionic surfactant, wax bee oil (if present), dicaprylyl ether (if present) at 80°C to obtain mixture A;

[0189] 2. water heating at 80;

[0190] 3. addition of mixture A to water at 80 with stirring;

[0191] 4. addition of polymer A (sodium polyacrylate) and polymer B (if present) to 80^C with stirring;

[0192] 5. addition of C-glycoside at 80^C with stirring;

[0193] 6. addition of hydrophobic powder (if present) at 50^C with stirring;

[0194] 7. cooling the composition obtained. Evaluation of compositions

[0195] The anti-soapy property of each composition was evaluated by in vitro protocol as follows:

[0196] 1. application of 200 qL of the test composition on a bioskin of an area of 6.3 cm x 6.3 cm;

[0197] 2. passing the finger over the composition describing 2 cycles / s for 30 seconds;

[0198] 3. observation of the intensity of the soapy film obtained and notation according to the standard as shown in [Fig.l], in which 1: least soapy aspect; 4: most soapy aspect, score of 3 is acceptable.

[0199] The results of the soapiness exhibited by the compositions of Inventive Examples 1-7 and Comparative Examples 1-2 have been summarized below.

[0200] [Tables3] Properties EC. 1 EC. 2 EL 1 EL 2 El. 3 EL 4 El. 5 El. 6 EL 7 Soapiness score 4 4 ​​1 3 2 3 2 3 3

[0201] It can be seen that the compositions of inventive examples 1-7 are anti-soapy.

Claims

Claims

1. Silicone-free composition, preferably for caring for and / or making up keratinous material, comprising: (i) at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid; (ii) at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from C14-C22 fatty acid glyceryl esters, C14-C22 fatty acid polyoxyethylenated esters, and mixtures thereof; (iii) at least one polymer A chosen from acrylic polymers; (iv) at least one oil chosen from alkanes, C8-C50 fatty esters, C8-C12 fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof; and (v) at least one C-glycoside.

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the saturated C14-C22 fatty acid is selected from linear and saturated C14-C18 fatty acids, preferably the fatty acid is selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and a combination thereof.

3. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the non-ionic surfactant is selected from glyceryl esters of a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid, polyethylene glycol esters comprising from 10 to 150 oxyethylene groups and a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid, C8-C24 alkylglucosides, and combinations thereof, preferably selected from glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl myristate, polyethylene glycol esters comprising from 20 to 100 oxyethylene groups and a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid, C12-C24 alkylglucosides, and combinations thereof. combinations, more preferably chosen from glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, arachidyl glucoside, and a mixture thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the weight ratio between the at least one saturated fatty acid in C14-C22 and the at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from the glyceryl ester of fatty acid in C14-C22, the polyoxyethylenated ester of fatty acid in C14-C22, the alkylglucosides and their mixtures is equal to or less than 6, preferably equal to or less than 4, more preferably from 0.2 to 4, even more preferably from 0.5 to 4, most preferably from 1 to A

5. d *T. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in in which polymer A is chosen from acrylic homopolymers, preferably chosen from salts of polyacrylic acids, more preferably chosen from metal salts of polyacrylic acids, even more preferably chosen from sodium, potassium, lithium salts of polyacrylic acids, and mixtures thereof.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the oil is chosen from branched alkanes containing from 8 to 20 carbon atoms; liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10; C8-C12 fatty alcohols; and mixtures thereof; preferably chosen from isododecane, isohexadecane, diisopropyl sebacate, ethylhexyl olivate and mixtures thereof; more preferably chosen from isododecane, isohexadecane and mixtures thereof, most preferably the oil is isododecane.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the oil is present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 4% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the C-glycoside is selected from compounds of formula (I): X—R (I) S---q, wherein: - R represents a saturated C1-C10, preferably C1-C4, alkyl radical which may be optionally substituted by at least one radical selected from OH, COOH or COOR"2, R"2 being a saturated C1-C4 alkyl radical, - S represents a monosaccharide or polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, preferably up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, whereby said monosaccharide or polysaccharide may be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional groups, and - X represents a radical selected from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, - CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and preferably a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more preferably a radical -CH(OH)-, the S-CH2-X bond represents a C-anomeric bond, which can be a or [3, as well as their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates, and their optical and geometric isomers; preferably, the C-glycoside is chosen from - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - CaD-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, - CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - l-(CaD-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - l-(CaL-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaD-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaL-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaD-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaD-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - l-(CaD-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - l-(C-[3-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - l-(CaL-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - CaD-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, - CaD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers and their mixtures.

9. Composition according to claim 1 or 8, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) from 3% by weight to 7% by weight of at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and a combination thereof; (ii) from 0.8% by weight to 3% by weight of at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, arachidyl glucoside and a mixture thereof; (iii) from 0.5% by weight to 1% by weight of sodium polyacrylate; (iv) from 4% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one oil selected from branched alkanes containing from 10 to 16 carbon atoms; and (v) from 5% by weight to 15% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol.

10. Non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the keratinous materials.