COMPOSITION COMPRISING A NEUTRALIZED POLY(METH)ACRYLIC ACID POLYMER
A cosmetic composition using neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer, organic acid, and water addresses the challenges of providing a sorbet-like appearance and non-sticky texture transformation, achieving effective skin application and stability.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023013780
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-12-07
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-13
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-12-07
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions for the skin struggle to provide a sorbet-like appearance, a refreshing texture transformation from gel/cream to liquid during application, and an absence of sticky feeling after application.
A composition comprising at least 0.5% by weight of neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer, combined with an organic acid or its salt, and water, which also may include additional ingredients like polysaccharides, oil-absorbing particles, oils, and polyglycerol fatty acid esters.
The composition achieves a sorbet-like appearance, a smooth texture transformation during application, and prevents a sticky feeling afterward, while maintaining stability over time and suppressing noodle formation.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING A NEUTRALIZED POLY(METH)ACRYLIC ACID POLYMER Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition and more preferably, a cosmetic composition for the skin, which can provide a unique appearance and texture. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Imparting texture to keratinous substances, such as skin, is one of the key characteristics of cosmetic products, especially cosmetic products for the skin.
[0003] In particular, a refreshing sensation (when the cosmetic product bursts, letting the liquid flow out, in other words, upon transformation of a physical property such as from a gel / cream to a liquid) due to structural collapse during application, and an absence of a sticky feeling after application are often required for consumer satisfaction.
[0004] Furthermore, a gel having a unique sorbet-like appearance can provide a visually refreshing impression that matches the above transformative texture and does not leave the skin feeling sticky. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
[0005] An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition which can provide a sorbet-like appearance as well as a texture transformation (from the texture of a gel / cream to the texture of a liquid) during application and leaving no sticky feeling after application.
[0006] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising:
[0007] (a) at least one neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer;
[0008] (b) at least one organic acid or salt thereof; and
[0009] (c) water,
[0010] in which
[0011] the amount of the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (a) is 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0012] It is preferable that the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (a) is crosslinked.
[0013] The amount of the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.7% to 4% by weight and more preferably from 0.9% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0014] The organic acid or its salt (b) may be chosen from hydroxy acids, glycyrrhizinic acid, glycyrrhetinic acid and their salts, preferably from alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, glycyrrhizinic acid, their salts and their mixtures, and more preferably from lactic acid, salicylic acid, glycyrrhizinic acid, their salts and their mixtures.
[0015] The amount of the organic acid(s) or their salt(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0016] The amount of water (c) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight and more preferably from 70% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0017] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be less than 7.0, preferably less than 6.5 and more preferably less than 6.0.
[0018] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) at least one polysaccharide.
[0019] The amount of the polysaccharide(s) (d) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0020] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one oil-absorbing particle.
[0021] The amount of the oil-absorbing particle(s) (e) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0022] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one oil.
[0023] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (g) at least one polyglyceric fatty acid ester.
[0024] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one silicone in an amount of 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0025] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating a keratinous substance, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention. Best mode for carrying out the invention
[0026] After extensive research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition which can exhibit a sorbet-like appearance as well as a texture transformation (from gel / cream texture to liquid texture) during application and an absence of a sticky feeling after application.
[0027] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a composition, comprising:
[0028] (a) at least one neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer;
[0029] (b) at least one organic acid or salt thereof; and
[0030] (c) water,
[0031] in which
[0032] the amount of the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (a) is 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0033] The composition according to the present invention may exhibit a sorbet-like appearance as well as a texture transformation (from gel / cream texture to liquid texture) during application and an absence of a sticky feeling after application. The term "sticky" herein means a property that gives a sticky feeling to the skin. Thus, the composition according to the present invention may provide both a refreshing visual impression and a refreshing touch sensation. Thus, the composition according to the present invention may provide a unique appearance and texture.
[0034] The composition according to the present invention may also provide additional effects.
[0035] In general, a composition including an organic acid or a salt thereof may be difficult to thicken and may have a low viscosity. Therefore, in order to thicken such a composition including an organic acid or a salt thereof, a large amount of a thickener tends to be added to the composition.
[0036] However, the use of a large amount of a thickener in a composition may adversely affect the texture transformation of the composition or may cause a sticky feel to the touch. Furthermore, if a thickener is a synthetic polymer, the use of a large amount of the thickener may cause noodle formation after application due to aggregation of the synthetic polymers.
[0037] The composition according to the present invention includes (b) an organic acid or salt thereof. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention may include a large amount of the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer(s) (a) in order to sufficiently thicken the composition. However, even if the composition according to the present invention includes a large amount of the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer(s) (a), the composition according to the present invention can cause good texture transformation and no sticky feeling after application. Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can suppress the formation of noodles after application.
[0038] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention is stable. The composition according to the present invention is stable immediately after the preparation of the composition and a long time after the preparation of the composition, even at a high temperature. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is stable over time and can be stored for a long time even under hot conditions, for example, in summer.
[0039] Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in more detail.
[0040] [Composition]
[0041] The composition according to the present invention comprises:
[0042] (a) at least one neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer;
[0043] (b) at least one organic acid or salt thereof; and
[0044] (c) water,
[0045] in which
[0046] the amount of the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (a) is 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0047] (Neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer)
[0048] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer. A single type of neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer may be used, while two or more different types of neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymers may be used in combination.
[0049] The neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (a) may have a water-absorbing property. Therefore, the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (a) may be a water-absorbing polymer.
[0050] In a specific embodiment of the present invention, the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (a) may have a water absorption capacity of 10 g or more, preferably 20 g or more, and more preferably 50 g or more, and / or 2,000 g or less, preferably 1,500 g or less, and more preferably 1,000 g or less, relative to 1 g of the polymer at 25°C and 1 atm.
[0051] The neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (a) may be provided in the form of particles, and preferably in the form of spherical particles. The average size of the primary particles as the D50 of the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer is not particularly limited, but in general is 0.1 qm or more, preferably 0.5 qm or more, and more preferably 1 qm or more, and / or is 200 qm or less, preferably 100 qm or less, more preferably 50 qm or less. The term "D50" herein refers to the particle size at which 50% by volume of the particles based on the total volume of the particles are less than or equal to D50 and 50% by volume of the particles based on the total volume of the particles are greater than D50. The D50 value can be determined by laser diffraction, for example, using a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as Mastersizer 2000 from Malvern Corp.
[0052] The neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (a) may be soluble in water. Therefore, the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (a) may be included in the aqueous phase, including water (c), of the composition according to the present invention.
[0053] The neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (a) may be totally or partially neutralized. Preferably, the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (a) is partially neutralized. The neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (a) may be totally or partially in the form of a salt, preferably a metal salt, more preferably an alkali metal salt, and even more preferably a sodium salt. The molar ratio of the neutralized parts to the non-neutralized parts is not particularly limited, but generally 10 mol% or more, 20 mol% or more, 30 mol% or more or 40 mol% or more, and / or 90 mol% or less, 80 mol% or less, 70 mol% or less or 60 mol% or less.
[0054] The neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (a) may be a homo- or copolymer. Preferably, the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (a) is a homopolymer.
[0055] The neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (a) may have a repeating unit represented by the following formula (I):
[0056] -[CH(R') - C(R2)(COO - M+)]- (I)
[0057] in which
[0058] R1 and R2, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl group such as methyl, preferably R1 and R2 represent a hydrogen atom; and
[0059] M+ represents H+ or a cationic counterion, preferably an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth metal cation or an ammonium ion, more preferably M+ represents an alkali metal cation such as the sodium cation.
[0060] The number of repetitions of the above repeating unit according to formula (I) is 2 or more.
[0061] The neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (a) with a repeating unit according to formula (I) can be derived from the polymerization of several monomers, identical (in this case, it is a homopolymer) or different (in this case, it is copolymers) chosen from those of formula (Ia):
[0062] HC(R') = C(R2) - COO M+ (la)
[0063] in which R1, R2 and M+ are as defined above,
[0064] in the presence of at least one polymerization initiator (for example, a UV initiator) to lead to polymers of formula (I) as defined above.
[0065] The neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (a) can be crosslinked.
[0066] Crosslinking of the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (a) may be carried out, for example, by applying at least one crosslinking agent to the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (a) by spraying.
[0067] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (a) is a crosslinked homopolymer. Mention may in particular be made of sodium polyacrylate sold under the name AQUPEC MG N40R, which is crosslinked and partially neutralized and also called sodium carbomer.
[0068] The amount of the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention is 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 0.7% by weight or more and more preferably 0.9% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0069] On the other hand, the amount of the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0070] Thus, the amount of the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.7% to 4% by weight and more preferably from 0.9% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0071] (Organic acid or salt thereof)
[0072] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one organic acid salt or salt thereof. If two or more such acids or salts are used, they may be the same or different.
[0073] The organic acid may have one or more acid groups which may be selected from the group consisting of a carboxylic group, a sulfuric group, a sulfonic group, a phosphoric group, a phosphonic group or a mixture thereof. It is preferable that the organic acid has at least one carboxylic group.
[0074] The organic acid may be a monovalent, divalent or polyvalent organic acid. It is preferable that the organic acid is a monovalent organic acid and more preferably, a monovalent carboxylic acid.
[0075] In one embodiment, the organic acid or its salt (b) may be chosen from hydroxylic acids, glycyrrhizinic acid, glycyrrhetinic acid and their salts.
[0076] It is preferable that the hydroxyl acid is chosen from alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids and mixtures thereof.
[0077] The term "alpha-hydroxy acid" or "AHA" herein refers to a carboxylic acid that has at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group separated by a carbon atom. Thus, in other words, AHA is a carboxylic acid that has at least one hydroxyl group on the adjacent (alpha) carbon atom.
[0078] The alpha-hydroxy acid may be chosen from, for example, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid and mixtures thereof, preferably from glycolic acid, lactic acid and mixtures thereof and more preferably, lactic acid.
[0079] The term "beta-hydroxy acid" or "BHA" herein refers to a carboxylic acid that has at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group separated by two carbon atoms.
[0080] The beta-hydroxy acid may be salicylic acid.
[0081] It is preferable to use, as organic acids (c), a combination of at least one alpha-hydroxy acid and at least one beta-hydroxy acid, and more preferably, a combination of lactic acid and salicylic acid.
[0082] AHA is known to activate protease in the stratum corneum to enhance the degradation of comeodesmosomes, while in the dermal layer, AHA can promote collagen formation, which then leads to skin peeling. In addition, AHA has also been reported to decrease facial pores and blackheads, most likely by targeting enzyme activation and protein functions related to sebum production.
[0083] BHA is known to add keratolytic activity that promotes exfoliation and removal of cells in the stratum corneum. It also decongests the skin by softening the sebum that blocks pores. This is why it is effective in improving desquamation and is particularly effective also for acne-prone and oily skin types.
[0084] In one embodiment, the organic acid or its salt (b) may be chosen from alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, glycyrrhizinic acid, their salts and their mixtures.
[0085] In another embodiment, the organic acid or its salt (b) may be chosen from lactic acid, salicylic acid, glycyrrhizinic acid, their salts and their mixtures.
[0086] Herein, the term "salt" means a salt formed by the addition of appropriate base(s) to the organic acid, which can be obtained from a reaction with the organic acid with the base(s) according to methods known to those skilled in the art. As salt, mention may be made of metal salts, for example alkali metal salts such as Na and K and alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg and Ca and ammonium salts.
[0087] As glycyrrhizinic acid salts, potassium salts may be mentioned. For example, dipotassium glycyrrhizate may preferably be used.
[0088] The amount of the organic acid(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0089] Furthermore, the amount of the organic acid(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0090] The amount of the organic acid(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0091] (Water)
[0092] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) water.
[0093] The amount of water (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0094] On the other hand, the amount of water (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0095] The amount of water (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 70% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0096] (Polysaccharide)
[0097] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one polysaccharide. If two or more polysaccharides are used, they may be the same or different.
[0098] The polysaccharide (d) may be present in the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention. The polysaccharide (d) may function as a hydrophilic thickener which can thicken the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0099] It is preferable that the polysaccharide (d) is derived from microorganisms or plants.
[0100] Microorganism-derived polysaccharide (d) means a polysaccharide produced by microorganisms such as germs or bacteria.
[0101] Examples of the polysaccharide (d) derived from microorganisms include cardollane, xanthan gum, gellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum, and mixtures thereof.
[0102] It may be preferable that the micro-organism derived polysaccharide (d) is selected from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum and mixtures thereof.
[0103] On the other hand, plant-derived polysaccharide (d) means a polysaccharide obtained from plants or algae.
[0104] As examples of the polysaccharide (d) derived from plants which can be used according to the present invention, mention may in particular be made of:
[0105] a) algae extracts, such as alginates, carrageenans and agars, and mixtures thereof. Examples of carrageenans include Satiagum UTC30® and UTC10® from the company Degussa; as alginate, mention may be made of sodium alginate marketed under the name Kelcosol® by the company ISP;
[0106] b) gums, such as guar gum and its non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan gum, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum or carob gum; as examples, mention may be made of guar gum marketed under the name Jaguar HP105® by the company Rhodia; mannan and konjac gum® (1% gluconomannan) marketed by the company GfN;
[0107] c) modified or unmodified starches, such as those obtained, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, from legumes such as golden peas, from tubers such as potato or cassava, from tapioca starches; from dextrins, such as corn dextrins; as examples, mention may be made of Remy DR I® rice starch sold by the company Remy; B® corn starch from the company Roquette; potato starch modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide, sold under the name Structure Solanace® by the company National Starch; native tapioca starch powder sold under the name Tapioca pure® by the company National Starch;
[0108] d) dextrins, such as dextrin extracted from corn under the name Index® from the company National Starch;
[0109] e) celluloses and their derivatives, in particular alkyl celluloses, hydroxyalkyl celluloses and alkyl hydroxyalkyl celluloses; methyl celluloses, hydroxyethyl celluloses, ethyl hydroxyethyl celluloses and carboxymethyl celluloses may be mentioned. Examples include stearyl and cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose. Examples of cetyl hydroxyethyl celluloses include Polysurf 67CS® and Natrosol Plus 330® from Aqualon;
[0110] and mixtures thereof.
[0111] Preferably, the plant-derived polysaccharide (d) may be selected from an algae extract, a gum and a cellulose derivative, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, agars, carob gum, mannan and konjac gum, cetyl or stearyl hydroxyethylcelluloses and tapioca starches may be used.
[0112] According to a first embodiment, the plant-derived polysaccharide (d) may be an algae extract chosen from alginates, carrageenans and agars, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, alginates or agars, or mixtures thereof, will be used.
[0113] According to another embodiment, the plant-derived polysaccharide (d) may be selected from a gum, such as guar gum, gum arabic, mannan and konjac gum and locust bean gum, and mixtures thereof.
[0114] According to another embodiment, the plant-derived polysaccharide (d) may be a modified or unmodified starch selected from wheat starch, corn starch, rice starch, potato starch and tapioca starch, and mixtures thereof.
[0115] According to another embodiment, the plant-derived polysaccharide (d) may be a dextrin, such as corn dextrin.
[0116] According to another embodiment, the plant-derived polysaccharide (d) may be a cellulose derivative. The cellulose derivative may in particular be a (CrC3) hydroxyalkyl cellulose, in particular modified with hydrophobic chains, in particular one or more hydrophobic groups containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic substituent(s) used may be C8-C30 and preferably C10-C22 alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups. Preferably, the hydrophobic substituent(s) according to the present invention may be saturated C10-C22 and preferably C16-C20 alkyl chains, such as cetyl (C16), stearyl (C[8) and behenyl (C20) groups. According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic substituent(s) according to the present invention may be cetyl groups.These cellulose derivatives containing one or more hydrophobic substituents according to the present invention may have a viscosity preferably of between 100 and 100,000 mPas and preferably of between 200 and 20,000 mPas, measured at 25°C in a solution containing 1% by weight of a polymer in water, this viscosity being determined conventionally using a viscometer. Brookfield LVT type at 6 rpm with a No. 3 spindle. Among the cellulose derivatives containing one or more hydrophobic substituents which can be used in the compositions according to the present invention, mention may preferably be made of cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses sold under the names Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS and Polysurf 67 CS (INCI name: cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose) by the company Aqualon / Hercules.
[0117] In one embodiment, the plant-derived polysaccharide (d) may be selected from non-cellulosic polysaccharides.
[0118] The amount of the polysaccharide(s) (d) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0119] Furthermore, the amount of the polysaccharide(s) (d) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0120] Thus, the quantity of the polysaccharide(s) (d) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0121] (Oil-absorbing particle)
[0122] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one oil-absorbing particle. If two or more oil-absorbing particles are used, they may be the same or different.
[0123] The oil-absorbing particle (e) is capable of absorbing (and / or adsorbing) an oil or a liquid fatty substance, for example sebum (from the skin).
[0124] It is preferable that the oil-absorbing particle (e) has an oil absorption capacity of 140 ml / 100 g or more, more preferably 250 ml / 100 g or more, even more preferably 400 ml / 100 g or more, still more preferably 600 ml / 100 g or more, still more preferably 800 ml / 100 g or more, and still more preferably 1000 ml / 100 g or more.
[0125] The oil-absorbing particle (e) may have an oil absorption capacity of 2200 ml / 100 g or less, preferably 2000 ml / 100 g or less, more preferably 1800 ml / 100 g or less, even more preferably 1600 ml / 100 g or less, more preferably 1400 ml / 100 g or less and more preferably 1200 ml / 100 g or less.
[0126] Thus, the oil-absorbing particle (e) may have an oil absorption capacity ranging from 140 ml / 100 g to 2200 ml / 100 g, preferably from 250 ml / 100 g to 2000 ml / 100 g, even more preferably from 400 ml / 100 g to 1800 ml / 100 g, more preferably still from 600 ml / 100 g to 1600 ml / 100 g, more preferably still from 800 ml / 100 g to 1400 ml / 100 g and more preferably still from 1000 ml / 100 g to 1200 ml / 100 g.
[0127] The amount of oil absorbed (and / or adsorbed) by the oil-absorbing particle (e) can be characterized by measuring the wet point according to the method described below. The oil absorption capacity measured at the wetting point, denoted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that must be added to 100 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste.
[0128] The quantity of oil absorbed (and / or adsorbed) can be measured according to the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard ISO 787 / 5-1980. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed / adsorbed on the available surface of the powder, by measuring the wetting point.
[0129] An amount m (in grams) of the oil-absorbing particle (e) of between about 0.5 g and about 5 g (the amount depends on the density of the oil-absorbing particle (e), but is usually 2 g) is placed on a glass plate and isononyl isononanoate is then added dropwise.
[0130] After adding 4 to 5 drops of isononyl isononanoate, the isononyl isononanoate is incorporated into the oil-absorbing particle (e) using a spatula, and the addition of the isononyl isononanoate is continued until a conglomerate of isononyl isononanoate and powder is formed. At this point, the isononyl isononanoate is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated using the spatula. The addition of isononyl isononanoate is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in mL) of isononyl isononanoate used is then noted.
[0131] The oil intake corresponds to the Vs / m ratio.
[0132] In the above protocol for determining the wet point, isononyl isononanoate may be replaced by oleic acid or linseed oil. Unless otherwise defined, the oil absorption capacities defined herein refer to those measured using isononyl isononanoate.
[0133] The oil-absorbing particle (e) may have a volume average particle size of less than 50 qm, preferably 45 qm and more preferably less than 40 qm. Unless otherwise defined, particle sizes or average particle sizes defined herein are volume average particle sizes.
[0134] The oil-absorbing particle (e) may have a volume average particle size of 1 qm or more, preferably 2 qm or more, more preferably 3 qm or more and even more preferably 4 qm or more.
[0135] The (primary) particle size of the oil-absorbing particle (e) may be 1 to 30 pm, preferably 2 to less than 25 pm, more preferably 3 to less than 20 pm, and even more preferably 4 to less than 15 pm. The (primary) particle size may be measured, for example, by extraction and measurement from a photographic image obtained by SEM and the like, using a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraction particle size analyzer, and the like. It is preferable to use a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraction particle size analyzer. In this case, the (primary) particle size is the volume-average (primary) particle size.
[0136] It is preferable that the oil-absorbing particle (e) is a porous particle, particularly a porous spherical particle.
[0137] According to another aspect of the present disclosure, the oil-absorbing particle (e) may have a BET specific surface area of greater than or equal to 300 m2 / g, for example, greater than or equal to 500 m2 / g, such as greater than or equal to 600 m2 / g and less than or equal to 1500 m2 / g.
[0138] The oil-absorbing particle (e) may have a density of 0.01 to 0.9 g / cm3, preferably 0.05 to 0.5 g / cm3 and more preferably 0.1 to 0.3 g / cm3.
[0139] The oil-absorbing particle (e) may be organic or inorganic.
[0140] Inorganic oil-absorbing particle:
[0141] The oil-absorbing particle (e) may be inorganic in nature.
[0142] The inorganic oil-absorbing particle (e) may have at least one inorganic core organic and at least one hydrophobic coating.
[0143] The hydrophobic coating may be formed by a hydrophobic treatment agent which may be chosen in particular from fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, mineral waxes and mixtures thereof.
[0144] The N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
[0145] The term “alkyl” cited in the above-mentioned compounds designates in particular an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0146] It is preferable that the inorganic oil-absorbing particle (e) comprises at least one material selected from the group consisting of silica, in particular hy drophobic such as silica silylate, silicate, perlite, boron nitride, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydroxide, kaolin, talc and a mixture thereof.
[0147] Hydrophobic silica, in particular silica silylate, may be based on silica aerogels which are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
[0148] They are usually synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying avoids shrinkage of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker, CJ, and Scherer, GW, Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academie Press, 1990.
[0149] Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may exhibit
[0150] a specific surface area per unit weight (SE) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2 / g and more preferably from 600 to 800 m2 / g, and / or
[0151] a size, expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 1500 qm, preferably from 1 to 1000 qm, more preferably from 1 to 100 qm, in particular from 1 to 30 qm, even more preferably from 5 to 25 qm, even more preferably from 5 to 20 qm and even more preferably from 5 to 15 qm.
[0152] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may have a size, expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 30 qm, preferably from 5 to 25 qm, more preferably from 5 to 20 qm and even more preferably from 5 to 15 qm.
[0153] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) described in "The journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, which corresponds to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles considered.
[0154] The sizes of silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the Malvem MasterSizer 2000. The data are processed based on the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0155] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may have a specific surface area per unit mass (SW) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a size expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 minutes and preferably 5 to 15 minutes.
[0156] The silica aerogel particles may advantageously have a packed density (r) ranging from 0.04 g / cm3 to 0.10 g / cm3 and preferably from 0.05 g / cm3 to 0.08 g / cm3.
[0157] In the context of the present invention, this density, known as tamped density, can be evaluated according to the following protocol:
[0158] 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder;
[0159] the graduated cylinder is then placed on a Stav 2003 device from Stampf Volumeter;
[0160] the graduated test tube is then subjected to a series of 2500 tamping operations (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between 2 consecutive tests is less than 2%); and
[0161] the final volume Vf of packed powder is then measured directly on the graduated cylinder. The packed density is determined by the ratio w / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and w in g).
[0162] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m2 / cm3, preferably from 10 to 50 m2 / cm3 and more preferably from 15 to 40 m2 / cm3.
[0163] The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: Sv = Sw xp where p is the packed density, expressed in g / cm3, and Sw is the specific surface area per unit weight expressed in m2 / g as defined above.
[0164] By the expression "hydrophobic silica" is meant any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example, halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example, trimethylsilyl groups.
[0165] With regard to the preparation of surface-modified hydrophobic silica aerogel particles by silylation, reference may be made to US 7,470,725.
[0166] In particular, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface with trimethylsilyl groups will be used.
[0167] Examples of inorganic oil-absorbing particles (e) include the fillers described below:
[0168] As silica powders, we can cite
[0169] amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane, in particular those sold under the name SA Sunsphere® H33 (oil uptake equal to 243 ml / 100 g),
[0170] precipitated silica powders surface-treated with a mineral wax, such as precipitated silica treated with a polyethylene wax, and in particular those sold under the name Acematt OR 412 by the company Evonik-Degussa (oil intake equal to 398 ml / 100 g),
[0171] Sunsphere® 12 (isononyl isononanoate oil intake equal to 140.6 ml / 100 g) by the company AGC Si-Tech, and
[0172] silica silylate sold under the name VM-2270 (isononyl isononanoate oil intake equal to 1090 ml / 100 g) by the company Dow Corning.
[0173] As silica powders, we can cite
[0174] porous silica microspheres, in particular those sold under the names® Sunsphere H53 and® Sunsphere H33 (oil uptake equal to 370 ml / 100 g) by the company Asahi Glass;
[0175] MSS-500-3H from Kobo company; amorphous hollow silica particles, in particular those sold under the name Silica Shells by the company Kobo (oil intake equal to 550 ml / 100 g);
[0176] the porous silica microsphere sold under the name Sylysia 350 (oil uptake equal to 310 ml / 100 g) by the company Fuji Silysia Chemical; and
[0177] silica powder sold under the name Finesil X35 (oil uptake equal to 380 ml / 100 g) by Oriental Silicas.
[0178] As perlite powders, we can cite perlite sold under the name of
[0179] Optimat® 1430 OR and Optimat® 2550 OR (isononyl isononanoate oil intake equal to 250 ml / 100 g) by the company World Minerais, and
[0180] Perlite-MSZ12 (isononyl isononanoate oil intake equal to 148.2 ml / 100 g) by Miyoshi Kasei Company.
[0181] A silicate which may in particular be cited is aluminium silicate which is sold under the name Kyowaad® 700PEL (oil uptake equal to 195 ml / 100 g) by the company Kyowa Chemical Industry.
[0182] A magnesium carbonate powder which may in particular be cited is the product sold under the name Tipo Carbomagel® by the company Buschle & Lepper (oil intake equal to 214 ml / 100 g).
[0183] A magnesium carbonate / magnesium hydroxide powder which may in particular be cited is the product mMgCO3-Mg(OH)2-nH2O which is sold under the name Mg Tube (oil uptake equal to 250-310 ml / 100 g) by the company Nittesu Mining.
[0184] It is more preferable to use, as the inorganic oil-absorbing particle (e), silica silylate sold under the name VM-2270 by Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit weight ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[0185] Organic oil absorbing particle:
[0186] The oil-absorbing particle (e) may be of organic nature.
[0187] The organic oil-absorbing particle (e) may comprise at least one material selected from the group consisting of polyamide powders (in particular, nylon-6), acrylic polymer powders, in particular polymethyl methacrylate, polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, polyallyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer; silicones and a mixture thereof. The above material may be crosslinked.
[0188] It may be preferable that the organic oil-absorbing particle (e) is selected from acrylic polymer powders, especially ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer, acrylate copolymer, methyl methacrylate crosslinked polymer and silicone resins.
[0189] The organic oil-absorbing particle (e) may, if appropriate, be surface-treated with at least one hydrophobic treatment agent.
[0190] This hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen, for example, from:
[0191] - silicones, such as methicones and dimethicones;
[0192] - fatty acids, such as stearic acid;
[0193] - metallic soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate and aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate;
[0194] - perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides and polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups;
[0195] - amino acids, N-acylated amino acids and their salts;
[0196] - lecithin and isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; and
[0197] - their mixtures.
[0198] As used herein, the term "alkyl" referred to in the compounds cited above is understood to mean a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl group comprising from 1 to 30 atoms, for example from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0199] The N-acylated amino acids may comprise an acyl group comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl and cocoyl group. Salts of these components may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
[0200] Examples of the organic oil-absorbing particle (e) include the fillers described below:
[0201] As acrylic polymer powders, mention may be made of:
[0202] porous spheres of polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate sold under the name Microsponge 5640 by the company Cardinal Health Tech- nologies (oil intake equal to 155 ml / 100 g),
[0203] the vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosslinked polymer sold under the name KSP 100 (isononyl isononanoate oil uptake equal to 142.7 ml / 100 g) by the company Shin Etsu?
[0204] ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate crosslinked copolymer powders, in particular those sold under the name Polytrap® 6603 from the company Amcol Health & Beauty Solutions (isononyl isononanoate oil intake equal to 657 ml / 100 g), and
[0205] the acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate / vinylidene chloride copolymer sold under the name Expancel 551DE40D42 (isononyl isononanoate oil uptake equal to 1387 ml / 100 g) by the company Akzo Novel.
[0206] As polyamide powders, mention may be made of nylon-6 powder, in particular the product sold under the name PompôlO by the company UBE Industries (oil intake equal to 202 ml / 100 g).
[0207] The amount of oil-absorbing particle(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0208] Furthermore, the amount of the oil-absorbing particle(s) (e) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0209] The amount of the oil-absorbing particle(s) (e) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0210] (Oil)
[0211] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one oil. Only one type of oil may be used, but two or more different types of oils may be used in combination.
[0212] Herein, "oil" means a fatty compound or a fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste or a solid at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oil(s) (a), those generally used in cosmetics may be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0213] The oil (f) may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0214] The oil (f) may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.
[0215] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, jojoba esters, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0216] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
[0217] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of linear or branched C1-C26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and linear or branched C1-C26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0218] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters are derived is branched.
[0219] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, cetearyl isononanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0220] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0221] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylethylethylyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neotyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diiso-nonanoate.
[0222] As ester oils, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates compounds based on oxygen-bearing hydrocarbons containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0223] Examples of suitable sugars include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0224] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids in C6-C30, and preferably in C12-C22. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0225] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.
[0226] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0227] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0228] An example that can be cited is the product marketed under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0229] Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0230] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).
[0231] Examples of silicone oils that may be mentioned include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methyl- hydrogen polysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
[0232] Preferably, the silicone oils are chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
[0233] These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones which may be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
[0234] Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968) by Walter Noll, Academie Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0235] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
[0236] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecame-ethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Cyclocopolymers of the di-methylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula: i— D” - D’---D” - D’ —। CH, 1 CH3 with D" ; & O and with D' : - - O — CH, CgH,,
[0237] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;
[0238] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 106 m2 / s at 25°C. An example is deca-methyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.
[0239] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
[0240] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned, without limitation:
[0241] - Silbione® oils from the 47 and 70 047 ranges or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;
[0242] - oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia;
[0243] - oils from the 200 range of the Dow Corning company, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s;
[0244] - General Electric Viscasil® oils and certain oils in the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
[0245] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 range from the company Rhodia.
[0246] Among the silicones containing aryl groups are polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples include products sold under the following names:
[0247] - Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range from Rhodia;
[0248] - oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia;
[0249] - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;
[0250] - silicones from the Bayer PK range, such as the PK20 product;
[0251] - certain oils from the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0252] Organomodified liquid silicones may in particular contain poly-ethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.
[0253] The hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from:
[0254] - lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. A Examples include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, e.g., isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and
[0255] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as that liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and polyisobutenes hy- drugs such as Parleam® and squalane.
[0256] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or vaseline, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
[0257] In one embodiment, the oil (f) may be chosen from triglyceride oils.
[0258] The triglyceride oil comprises at least one triglyceride. The triglyceride may be referred to as triacyl glycerol, and three fatty acids or two fatty acids and one non-fatty acid, and one glycerol are esterified in the triglyceride.
[0259] The fatty acid may have, for example, 4 or more carbon atoms, 6 or more carbon atoms, 8 or more carbon atoms, or 10 or more carbon atoms, and 30 or fewer carbon atoms, 28 or fewer carbon atoms, 26 or fewer carbon atoms, or 24 or fewer carbon atoms. The fatty acid may have a carbon chain length other than, for example, 4 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 28 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 26 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms. The carbon chain may be straight or branched.
[0260] The fatty acid may be saturated or unsaturated.
[0261] Examples of saturated fatty acids include, for example, palmitic acid, heptadecanoic acid, stearic acid, non-adecanoic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, tetradocosanoic acid, hexadocosanoic acid and octadocosanoic acid.
[0262] Examples of unsaturated fatty acids include, for example, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, vaccenic acid, gadoleic acid, eicosenoic acid, erucic acid, nervonic acid, linoleic acid, eicosadienoic acid, docosadienoic acid, linolenic acid, pinolenic acid, eleostearic acid, mede acid, eicosatrienoic acid, steroidonic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosatetraenoic acid, adrenic acid, bosseopentaenoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, osbond acid, clupanodonic acid, tetracetapenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and nisinic acid.
[0263] Examples of non-fatty acid may be dicarboxylic acids which may have, for example, at least 1, at least 2, at least 3 or at least 4 carbon atoms, and at most 12, at most 10, at most 8 or at most 6 carbon atoms. The non-fatty acid may have a carbon chain length other than, for example, 1 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably 3 to 8 carbon atoms and even more preferably, 4 to 6 carbon atoms. carbon chain can be linear or branched.
[0264] The non-fatty acid, preferably the dicarboxylic acid, may be saturated or unsaturated.
[0265] Examples of saturated non-fatty acid, preferably saturated dicarboxylic acid, include, for example, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, souseric acid, azelaic acid and sebacic acid.
[0266] Examples of unsaturated fatty acids include, for example, maleic acid, fumaric acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, and 2-pentenoic acid.
[0267] The triglyceride oil that may be suitable for the present invention is of plant origin. In other words, it is preferable that the triglyceride oil is chosen from vegetable oils.
[0268] The vegetable oil can be chosen from oils extracted from plants, butters extracted from plants and their mixtures.
[0269] Examples of oils extracted from plants include: jojoba oil, babassu oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, canola oil, coconut oil, meadowfoam oil; Brazil nut oil, marula oil, corn oil, argan oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grape oil, linseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil, avocado oil, shea butter oil, rapeseed oil, and copra oil.
[0270] Among the butters extracted from plants, we can cite, for example, the following butters: shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or Madhuca longifolia butter (Bassia), mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M.butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya (kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao) and sunflower butter.
[0271] In a preferred embodiment, the triglyceride oil may be selected from caprylic / capric / succinic triglyceride, shea butter and a mixture thereof.
[0272] It is preferable that the oil (f) is selected from ester oils, triglyceride oils, hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially chosen from ester oils, triglyceride oils and their mixtures.
[0273] It is also preferable to choose the oil (f) from oils with a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.
[0274] The amount of the oil(s) (f) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0275] Furthermore, the amount of the oil or oils (f) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0276] The amount of oil(s) (f) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0277] (Polyglycerol ester of fatty acid)
[0278] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (g) at least one polyglycerol fatty acid ester. Only one type of polyglycerol fatty acid ester may be used, but two or more different types of polyglycerol fatty acid esters may be used in combination.
[0279] The polyglycerol ester of fatty acid (g) can function as a surfactant, particularly a non-ionic surfactant.
[0280] The polyglycerol ester of fatty acid (g) may have an HLB value of 5.0 to 10.0, preferably 6.0 to 9.0 and more preferably 7.0 to 8.0. The term HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) is well known to those skilled in the art and reflects the ratio of the hydrophilic portion to the lipophilic portion in the molecule. If two or more polyglycerol esters of fatty acids (g) are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values of all the polyglycerol esters of fatty acids (g).
[0281] The polyglyceric ester of fatty acid (g) can be chosen from mono, di, tri esters and higher esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acid(s).
[0282] It is preferable that the polyglycerol ester of fatty acid (g) comprises 2 to 4 glycerol units, preferably 2 or 3 glycerol units and more preferably, 2 glycerol units.
[0283] The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety or the fatty acid moiety of the polyglycerol ester of fatty acid (g) may comprise 14 or more carbon atoms, preferably 16 or more carbon atoms and more preferably, 18 or more carbon atoms. The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety or the fatty acid moiety of the polyglycerol ester of fatty acid (g) may comprise 30 or fewer carbon atoms, preferably 24 or fewer carbon atoms and more preferably 20 or fewer carbon atoms. The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety or the fatty acid moiety of the polyglycerol ester of fatty acid (g) may have from 14 to 30, preferably from 16 to 24 and more preferably from 18 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0284] The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety of the polyglycerol ester of fatty acid (g) may be saturated or unsaturated, and may be selected from myristic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and oleic acid.
[0285] The polyglycerol ester of fatty acid (g) may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 stearate (HLB: 5.0), PG2 distearate (HLB: 4), PG2 isostearate (HLB: 8), PG2 diisostearate (HLB: 3.2), PG2 triisostearate (HLB: 3), PG2 sesquiisostearate (HLB: about 4), PG2 oleate (HLB: 8), PG2 sesquioleate (HLB: 5.3), PG3 distearate (HLB: 5), PG3 diisostearate (HLB: 5), PG3 dicocoate (HLB: 7), PG5 hexastearate (HLB: 4.0), PG5 trioleate (HLB: 7.0), PG10 pentaoleate (HLB: 6.4), PG2 sesquicaprylate (HLB: approximately 8), PG2 caprate (HLB: 9.5), PG2 laurate (HLB: 8.5), PG2 myristate (HLB: 10), PG2 isopalmitate (HLB: 9), PG4 oleate (HLB: 10), PG4 stearate (HLB: 9), PG4 isostearate (HLB: 8.2), PG6 distearate (HLB: 8), PG10 distearate (HLB: about 9), PG10 Tristearate (HLB: 8), PG10 diisostearate (HLB: 10), PG10 triisostearate (HLB: 8), PG10 tricoate (HLB: 9), and their mixtures.
[0286] It may be preferable that the polyglycerol fatty acid ester (g) is selected from the group consisting of PG2 stearate (HLB: 5.0), PG2 distearate (HLB: 4), PG2 isostearate (HLB: 8), PG2 diisostearate (HLB: 3.2), PG2 triisostearate (HLB: 3), PG2 sesquiisostearate (HLB: about 4), PG2 oleate (HLB: 8), PG2 sesquioleate (HLB: 5.3), PG3 distearate (HLB: 5), PG3 diisostearate (HLB: 5), PG3 dicocoate (HLB: 7), PG2 sesquicaprylate (HLB: about 8), PG2 caprate (HLB: 9.5), PG2 laurate (HLB: 8.5), PG2 myristate (HLB: 10), PG2 isopalmitate (HLB: 9), PG4 oleate (HLB: 10), PG4 stearate (HLB: 9), PG4 isostearate (HLB: 8.2), and mixtures thereof.
[0287] The amount of the polyglyceric ester(s) of fatty acid(s) (g) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0288] Furthermore, the amount of the polyglyceric ester(s) of fatty acid(s) (g) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0289] The amount of the polyglyceric ester(s) of fatty acid(s) (g) in the com position according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably, from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0290] (Polyol)
[0291] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one polyol. Only one type of polyol may be used, but two or more different types of polyol may be used in combination.
[0292] The term "polyol" herein refers to an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups and does not include a saccharide or derivative thereof. The derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom or atoms in one or more hydroxy groups thereof has / have been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.
[0293] The polyol may be a C2-C12 polyol, preferably a C2-C9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.
[0294] The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.
[0295] The polyol may be selected from glycerins and derivatives thereof, as well as glycols and derivatives thereof. The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol (5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups) and sugars such as sorbitol.
[0296] The polyol may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, such as from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0297] (Other optional ingredients)
[0298] The composition according to the present invention may also comprise an effective amount of other optional ingredients, previously known elsewhere in cosmetic compositions, such as various common adjuvants, sequestering agents, preservatives, vitamins or provitamins, for example, niacinamide, perfumes, plant extracts, cationic polymers, etc.
[0299] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one organic solvent. Thus, the organic solvent is preferably miscible in water. As organic solvent, mention may be made, for example, of C1-C4> alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol; analogous products and mixtures thereof.
[0300] The water-soluble organic solvents may be present in an amount of 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0301] The water-soluble organic solvents may be present in an amount of 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0302] The water-soluble organic solvents may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0303] The composition according to the present invention may include a very limited quantity of silicone(s).
[0304] The amount of silicone(s), such as organopolysiloxanes, in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less and, more preferably, 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not include silicone.
[0305] [Preparation and properties]
[0306] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.
[0307] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means may be used for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention. The conventional method and means include a homogenizer, for example a turbine mixer.
[0308] (Shape)
[0309] The composition according to the invention is in the form of an aqueous gel or an oil-in-water (O / W) dispersion or emulsion.
[0310] If the composition according to the present invention does not include any oil, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an aqueous gel.
[0311] If the composition according to the present invention includes (f) at least one oil, and if the composition according to the present invention includes fatty phases dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, in which the dispersed fatty phases may be oil droplets, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an O / W dispersion or emulsion. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O / W gel emulsion or an O / W gel dispersion.
[0312] The H / W architecture or structure, which consists of fatty phases dispersed in an aqueous phase, has an external aqueous phase, and therefore, the composition according to the present disclosure having the O / W architecture or structure can provide a pleasant feeling during use due to the immediate feeling of freshness that the aqueous phase can provide.
[0313] (pH)
[0314] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be less than 7.0, preferably less than 6.5 and more preferably less than 6.0.
[0315] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be greater than or equal to 3.0, preferably greater than or equal to 3.5 and more preferably greater than or equal to 4.0.
[0316] For example, the pH of the composition according to the present invention may be from 3.0 to less than 7.0, preferably from 3.5 to less than 6.5 and more preferably from 4.0 to less than 6.0.
[0317] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be corrected by adding at least one alkaline agent and / or at least one acid, other than the organic acid or salt thereof (b). The pH of the composition according to the present invention may also be corrected by adding at least one buffering agent.
[0318] [Process and use]
[0319] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance such as the skin.
[0320] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as the skin, comprising: applying, to the keratinous substance, the composition according to the present invention.
[0321] The cosmetic process here designates a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up the surface of a keratinous substance such as the skin.
[0322] The present invention may also relate to a use of (a) at least one neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer in a composition comprising:
[0323] (b) at least one organic acid or salt thereof; and
[0324] (c) water,
[0325] in which
[0326] the amount of the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (a) is 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition,
[0327] in order to provide the composition with a sorbet-like appearance and / or a texture transformation (from gel / cream texture to liquid texture) during application and / or no sticky feeling after application.
[0328] The above explanations concerning the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (a), the organic acid or salt thereof (b) and the water (c) for the composition according to the present invention, can be applied to those in the above use. EXAMPLES
[0329] The present invention will be described in more detail with the aid of examples which should not, however, be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0330] [Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3]
[0331] The following compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 shown in Table 1 were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1 as follows:
[0332] (1) mixing the ingredients of column A of Table 1 at 75 to 80°C to form a uniform mixture of phase A;
[0333] (2) adding the ingredients of column B of Table 1 to the phase A mixture, 75-80°C, followed by their homogenization to obtain a uniform mixture (phases A and B) at 75-80°C;
[0334] (3) cooling the mixture of phases A and B to room temperature (25°C);
[0335] (4) adding the ingredients of column C of Table 1 to the mixture of phases A and B, followed by their homogenization to obtain a uniform mixture (phases A, B and C);
[0336] (5) adding the ingredients of column D of Table 1 to the mixture of phases A, B and C, followed by their homogenization to obtain a uniform mixture (phases A, B, C and D); and
[0337] (6) addition of the ingredients of columns E and F of table 1 to the mixture of phases A, B, C and D, followed by their homogenization to obtain a uniform mixture (phases A, B, C, D, E and F).
[0338] The numerical values of the component amounts shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" as active ingredients. The symbols (a)-(g) in Table 1 correspond to the ingredients (a)-(g) in the claims.
[0339] [Tables 1] Ingredient Ex. 1 and 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 And 5 And. 6 And Qy 1 And. Gs œ 2 Ex Oo mu (c) A Eau qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 1G0 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Glycerine 5 5 5 5 5 5 5, 3 Giy 0 5 QWs 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 QiWQQÇfe. a Wspdsque 0.2 5 0.2 5 0.2 5 0..2 5 0 2 5 ■02 5 0.2 5 0.2 5 0.2 5 (b) Ice acidity 0.5 0.5 0.4 5 0.5 0.5 (b) Lactic Acid - - 0.5 0.5 - - - - - (b) Concentrations of Solubility 0.2 02 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 The pH of sodium .8 qs pH5 .8 pH5 .8 pH5 .8 pH5 .8 pH5 .8 05 pH 5.8 (a) 8 Sodium Energy® 1.4 1.4 1.8 18 - Gat 5 — 14 - - - 1.4 - (dj XanUwe Eraser 0.2 0.2 - 0.2 0.2 - 0.2 0.2 - (D d ^Qnon <e 2 2 - - - 2 2 2 2 (0 l^nonanvate de cetearyfe - - 2 2 - - - - - (9) l^oslearate de paNolycefvle-2 0,1 5' 0,1 5 0.1 5’ O.1 5 - 0.1 5 0,1 5 0.1 5 0.1 0 (e) D giylalé de silica 0.3 - 0.3 0.3 - 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 F Ethanol 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 .5 .
[0340] (continued)
[0341] (continued) Sorbet-like appearance Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Obi No No N& n Texture transformation Very Very Good Good Very Very Very Ma Ma s good ne s good ne ne ne s good ne s good ne s bad uvai se uvai se: uvai se Non-quoting sensation Very Good Very Good Very Very Very Ma Very Ma s Sound ne ne s good ne s Good ne s good ne uvas se s bad uvai se SG Formation of nobles Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Good s good ne s good ne s good ne s good ne s Good ne s good ne s good ne s bad uvai se ne Temperature stability Very Very Good Tl è Very Very Very Ma Good Ma s good HG s Good ne ns s good ns s Good ne s good Hô uvai se uvai se Viscosity 476 50 128 90 318 90 636 80 476 50 285 Or 800 140 QCO 100
[0342] [Evaluations]
[0343] (Sherbet-like appearance)
[0344] Five professional panelists visually evaluated the appearance of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3, and rated them according to the following criteria:
[0345] Yes: A sorbet-like appearance was observed
[0346] No: A sorbet-like appearance was not observed
[0347] (Texture Transformation)
[0348] Five professional panelists evaluated the "texture transformation" at the start of application when applying the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3. Each panelist took each composition in their hands and then applied it to their face to evaluate the texture transformation at the start of application, and rated it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), and it was then classified into the following 4 categories based on the average of the rating:
[0349] Very good: From 5.0 to 4.0 (texture transformation (from gel to liquid) is clearly felt at the beginning of application)
[0350] Good: From 3.9 to 3.0 (texture transformation was felt at the beginning of the application)
[0351] Bad: From 2.9 to 2.0 (texture transformation was barely felt at the beginning of the application)
[0352] Very bad: From 1.9 to 1.0 (texture transformation was not at all felt at the beginning of the application)
[0353] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0354] (Non-sticky feeling)
[0355] Five professional panelists evaluated the "non-sticky feeling" after application of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3. Each panelist took each composition in their hands, then applied it to their face to evaluate the non-sticky feeling after application, and rated it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), and it was then classified into the following 4 categories based on the average of the rating:
[0356] Very good: From 5.0 to 4.0 (stickiness was not felt at all after application)
[0357] Good: From 3.9 to 3.0 (stickiness was barely felt after application)
[0358] Bad: From 2.9 to 2.0 (stickiness was felt after application)
[0359] Very poor: From 1.9 to 1.0 (stickiness was clearly felt after application)
[0360] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0361] (Noodles)
[0362] Five professional panelists evaluated the "noodle formation" after application of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3. Each panelist took each composition in their hands, then applied it to their face to evaluate the noodle formation after application, and rated it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), and it was then classified into the following 4 categories based on the average of the rating:
[0363] Very good: From 5.0 to 4.0 (No noodles were observed)
[0364] Good: 3.9 to 3.0 (Slight noodle formation so they weren't noticeable during normal use)
[0365] Bad: From 2.9 to 2.0 (small noodles were observed and could be perceived)
[0366] Very poor: From 1.9 to 1.0 (large noodles were observed and could be perceived)
[0367] (Temperature stability)
[0368] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was introduced into a glass bottle and kept at a temperature of 45°C for 2 months. Each sample was then studied in terms of degree of change (appearance, odor and color) and was evaluated in accordance with the following criteria:
[0369] Very good: Almost the same conditions as in production.
[0370] Good: A slight change in appearance, odor, or color has been observed.
[0371] Bad: A change in appearance, odor, or color was clearly observed. A change in appearance (e.g., phase separation and creaming), bad odor, or color change (e.g., yellowing and browning) was clearly observed.
[0372] Very poor: A remarkable change in appearance, odor, or color has been observed. A remarkable change in appearance (e.g., phase separation and creaming), an unpleasant odor, or a change in color (e.g., yellowing and browning) has been observed.
[0373] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0374] (Viscosity)
[0375] The viscosity of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was measured using a type B viscometer (Rotor: No. 4, rotation speed: 6 rpm, and measurement time: 1 minute).
[0376] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0377] (Summary)
[0378] The compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 exhibited a sorbet-like appearance as well as a texture transformation (from gel / cream texture to liquid texture) during application and no sticky feeling after application.
[0379] The compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 were also stable and able to suppress noodle formation.
[0380] Comparison between Example 1 and Example 2 demonstrates that the addition of oil-absorbing particles (silica silicate) further improved the non-sticky feel.
[0381] Comparative Example 1 shows that no use of any thickener could increase the viscosity of the composition according to Comparative Example 1. Furthermore, the composition according to Comparative Example 1 was unstable and could not exhibit a sorbet-like appearance, texture transformation, good non-sticky feel.
[0382] Comparative Example 2 shows that the use of an unneutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer could not provide a sorbet-like appearance, good texture transformation, or a non-sticky feel. Furthermore, the composition according to Comparative Example 2 could not suppress noodle formation.
[0383] Comparative Example 3 shows that the use of a very small amount of neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (0.3% by weight) was insufficient to increase the viscosity of the composition according to Comparative Example 3 and to provide the composition with a sorbet-like appearance, good texture transformation or a good non-sticky feel. In addition, the composition according to Comparative Example 3 was not uniform.
Claims
Claims
1. Composition, preferably cosmetic composition, and more preferably cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising: (a) at least one neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer; (b) at least one organic acid or salt thereof; and (c) water, wherein the amount of the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (a) is 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the neutralized poly(meth)acrylic acid polymer (a) is crosslinked.
3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, in which the organic acid or its salt (b) is chosen from hydroxylic acids, glycyrrhizinic acid, glycyrrhetinic acid and their salts, preferably from alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, glycyrrhizinic acid, their salts and their mixtures, and more preferably from lactic acid, salicylic acid, glycyrrhizinic acid, their salts and their mixtures.
4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the amount of the organic acid(s) or their salt(s) (b) in the composition ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the pH of the composition is less than 7.0, preferably less than 6.5 and more preferably less than 6.
0.
6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the composition further comprises (d) at least one polysaccharide.
7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition further comprises (e) at least one oil-absorbing particle.
8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition further comprises (f) at least one oil.
9. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition further comprises (g) at least one poly-glycerol ester of fatty acid.
10. Cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the keratinous substance.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Organically modified aerogels, processes for their preparation by surface modification of the aqueous gel, without prior solvent exchange, and subsequent drying, and their use
US7470725B2