Composition for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials

The composition of amino acid surfactants, fatty acid salts, and acrylate copolymers addresses the stability and performance issues of current cleaning products, enhancing stability, rheology, foaming, and pumping performance for effective skin cleansing.

FR3156323A3Active Publication Date: 2025-06-13LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2024000874
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Utility models
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2023-12-07
Filing Date
2024-01-30
Publication Date
2025-06-13
Estimated Expiration
2034-01-30

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Current cleaning products containing amino acid surfactants often lack desirable stability, rheology, foaming, and pumping performance.

Method used

A composition comprising at least one amino acid surfactant, less than 5% by weight of a fatty acid salt with 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and an acrylate copolymer, which improves stability, rheology, foaming, and pumping performance.

Benefits of technology

The composition achieves desirable stability, rheology, foaming, and pumping performance, making it suitable for use in pump systems and ensuring effective cleaning and makeup removal from keratinous materials.

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Abstract

Composition for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials The present invention relates to a composition, in particular for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, comprising: a) at least one amino acid surfactant, b) an amount of less than 5% by weight of at least one fatty acid salt having from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, relative to the total weight of the composition, and c) at least one acrylate copolymer. Figure for abstract: none
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Description

Title of the invention: Composition for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, and also relates to a process for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Skin cleansing is very important, especially for facial care. It should be as effective as possible, as oily residues, such as dirt, excess sebum and remnants of daily used cosmetics and makeup products can lead to an unpleasant oily appearance. Furthermore, it is now increasingly important that cleansing compositions provide effective cleansing of keratinous materials as well as gentleness to said keratinous materials.

[0003] Efforts have been made to meet the above-mentioned requirements. Therefore, mild surfactants, such as amino acid surfactants, are used more frequently to provide a mild and highly satisfactory cleanser. For example, it is known to formulate an amino acid surfactant in combination with a relatively higher level of a soap-based or fatty acid salt surfactant to obtain a cleanser with a mild feel.

[0004] Regarding current cleaning products, they can be arranged in various containers, including tubes, jars, capsules, unit-dose packages, and bottles, such as squeeze tubes and bottles, pump bottles, and spray bottles. For convenience, a pump system, for example, pump bottles, is becoming increasingly popular, especially for men's cleaning products. In this way, good pumping performance is desirable.

[0005] However, current cleaning products comprising an amino acid surfactant may not provide desirable stability, rheology, foaming and / or pumping performance.

[0006] Therefore, there is a need for a composition for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials comprising an amino acid surfactant, which can offer desirable performances of stability, rheology, foaming and / or pumping. Summary of the invention

[0007] The inventors have discovered that such a need can be satisfied by the composition according to the present invention.

[0008] According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, comprising: a. at least one amino acid surfactant, b. an amount of less than 5% by weight of at least one fatty acid salt having from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, relative to the total weight of the composition, and c. at least one acrylate copolymer.

[0009] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a process for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, comprising the application of the above composition to the keratinous materials.

[0010] According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a fatty acid salt having from 12 to 20 carbon atoms for improving the pumping performance of a composition comprising an amino acid surfactant, wherein the fatty acid salt having from 12 to 20 carbon atoms is present in an amount of less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0011] Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even more apparent upon reading the detailed description and examples which follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0012] In the following and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from... to ..".

[0013] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to encompass all of the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no material features or features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (such as "consisting essentially of" or "consisting of"). In the case of "consisting essentially of", any additional composition, material and / or component that materially affects the fundamental and novel characteristics are excluded from such an embodiment, but any composition, material and / or component that does not materially affect the fundamental and novel characteristics may be included in the embodiment.

[0014] As used herein, the term "keratinous material(s)" refers to the skin and lips. By "skin" is included all skin of the body, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratinous material(s) refers to the skin. Amino acid surfactant

[0015] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one acid surfactant amine.

[0016] According to the present invention, the amino acid surfactant is derived from an amino acid carboxylate salt in which the amine group located on the α-carbon or the [3-carbon of an amino acid salt is acylated with a C8-C22 fatty acid derivative.

[0017] The carboxylate salts of these amino acids can be formed by conventional means such as neutralizing the respective amino acid with a base. The amine group located on the α-carbon or the [3-carbon of the neutralized amino acid is acylated with a fatty acid halide (acyl halide) in the presence of a base via the well-known Schotten-Baumann reaction yielding the amide, thereby forming the desired surfactant reaction product, namely the amino acid surfactant. Suitable acyl halides for acylation of amino acid carboxylate salt include acyl chlorides, bromides, fluorides, and iodides.Acyl halides can be prepared by reacting a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched C8 to C22 fatty acid with a thionyl halide (bromide, chloride, fluoride, and iodide). Representative acyl halides include, but are not limited to, acyl chlorides selected from decanoyl chloride, dodecanoyl chloride (lauroyl chloride), cocoyl chloride (fatty acid chlorides derived from coconut oil), tetradecanoyl chloride (myristoyl chloride), hexadecanoyl chloride (palmitoyl chloride), octadecanoyl chloride (stearoyl chloride), 9-octadecenoyl chloride (oleoyl chloride), eicosanoyl chloride (arachidoyl chloride), docosanoyl chloride (behenoyl chloride), and mixtures thereof. Other acyl halides include the bromides, fluorides, and iodides of the above fatty acids.A method for preparing acyl halides and another method for acylating amino acids are disclosed in U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2008 / 0200704, published August 21, 2008, which application is incorporated herein by reference.

[0018] Preferably, said amino acid surfactant is represented by the formula (A): 0 (A) XY

[0019] in which: • Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group, containing 7 to 21 carbon atoms, • X is hydrogen or a methyl group, • n is 0 or 1, • Y is chosen from hydrogen, -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3 )CH2CH3, -CH2C6H5, -CH2C2H4OH, -CH2OH, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, -(CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2, -CH2C(O)O M+, -(CH2)2C(O)OH, -(CH2)2C(O)O M+, and • M is a salt-forming cation, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.

[0020] More preferably, in the amino fatty acid of formula (A): • Z represents a linear or branched C7-C2 alkyl or alkenyl group, • X is hydrogen or a methyl group, • n is 0, • Y is chosen from hydrogen, -(CH2)2C(O)OH, or -(CH2)2C(O)O M+, and • M is a salt-forming cation, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.

[0021] Preferably, the amino acid surfactant is chosen from salts of alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine and mixtures thereof.

[0022] More specifically, as amino acid surfactants, mention may be made of dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate, cocoyl methyl [3-alaninate] potassium, lauroyl methyl [3-alaninate potassium, myristoyl methyl [3-alaninate potassium, cocoyl myristoyl methyl [3-alaninate sodium, palmitoyl glycinate sodium, lauroyl glycinate sodium,cocoyl glycinate de sodium, myristoyl glycinate de sodium, lauroyl glycinate de potassium, cocoyl glycinate de potassium, lauroyl sarcosinate de potassium, cocoyl sarcosinate de potassium, cocoyl sarcosinate de sodium, lauroyl sarcosinate de sodium, myristoyl sarcosinate de sodium, oléoyl sarcosinate de sodium, palmitoyl sarcosinate de sodium, lauroyl sarcosinate d'ammonium, lauroyl aspartate de sodium, myristoyl aspartate de sodium, cocoyl aspartate de sodium, caproyl aspartate de sodium, lauroyl aspartate disodique, myristoyl aspartate disodique, cocoyl aspartate disodique, caproyl aspartate disodique, lauroyl aspartate de potassium, myristoyl aspartate de potassium, cocoyl aspartate de potassium, caproyl aspartate de potassium, lauroyl aspartate dipotassique, myristoyl aspartate dipotassique, cocoyl aspartate dipotassique, caproyl aspartate dipotassique, et leurs mélanges. ,

[0023] More preferably, the amino acid surfactant is chosen from glycine salts, even more preferably chosen from sodium palmitoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, and mixtures thereof; and is preferably sodium cocoyl glycinate.

[0024] Advantageously, the amino acid surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight and more preferably from 3% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty acid salt

[0025] The composition according to the present invention comprises an amount of less than 5% by weight of at least one fatty acid salt having from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0026] According to the present invention, the fatty acid salt comprises a long hydrophobic hydrocarbon chain (11 to 19 carbon atoms in length), a carboxylate anion (a fatty acyl) and a cation, as shown schematically in the following Formula (B):

[0027] (R—C(=O)—O—)nMn+(B)

[0028] wherein R is a substituted or unsubstituted linear or branched hydrocarbon chain of 11 to 19 carbon atoms, Mn+ is a cation, preferably a metal cation, and n is an integer representing the number of fatty acyls that interact with the cation, and also represents the number of charges of the cation, for example, n is an integer of 1, 2 or 3.

[0029] The fatty acid salt that is usable in certain embodiments of the present invention may contain 1 to 3 fatty acyl chains, each chain, independently, comprising 12 to 20 carbon atoms (C12-C20) in length. Thus, the fatty acid salt may be a salt of a monovalent, divalent or trivalent metal ion or a salt of an organic cation.

[0030] A monovalent metal ion may be, for example, Na+, K+, Cs+ or Li+; a divalent metal ion is selected from Mg2+, Ca2+, Fe(II), Co2+, Ni2+, Cu2+, Mn2+, Cd2+, Sr2+ or Zn2+; a trivalent metal ion may be, for example, Fe(III), La3+, Eu3+ or Gd3+; an organic cation may be, for example, ammonium, sulfonium, phosphonium or arsonium.

[0031] Fatty acyl may be derived from fatty acids such as, but not limited to, fatty acid lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, arachidic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, and arachidonic acid. Other fatty acids are also being considered.

[0032] Preferably, the fatty acid salt is selected from the group consisting of magnesium stearate, magnesium oleate, calcium stearate, calcium linoleate, sodium stearate, magnesium arachidonate, magnesium palmitate, magnesium linoleate, calcium arachidonate, calcium myristate, sodium linoleate, sodium isostearate, potassium stearate, sodium laurate, sodium myristate, sodium palmitate, potassium laurate, potassium myristate, potassium palmitate, calcium laurate, calcium palmitate, zinc laurate, zinc myristate, zinc palmitate, zinc stearate, magnesium laurate, magnesium myristate, and mixtures thereof.

[0033] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises potassium laurate.

[0034] Advantageously, the fatty acid salt having from 12 to 20 carbon atoms is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to less than 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 4.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 1% by weight to 3.5% by weight, and most preferably from 1% by weight to 3% by weight, for example, 0.5% by weight, 1% by weight, 1.5% by weight, 2% by weight, 2.5% by weight, 3% by weight, 3.5% by weight, 4% by weight and 4.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Acrylate copolymer

[0035] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one acrylate copolymer.

[0036] In some cases, the acrylate copolymer is a crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid and an ester thereof comprising a hydrocarbyl group having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably a C 1 -C 4 alkyl ester.

[0037] Mention may be made of the copolymer sold under the trade name ACULYN 33® by the company THE DOW CHEMICAL COMPANY and bearing the INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer.

[0038] In some cases, the acrylate copolymer is a crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and C1-C4 alkyl acrylate.

[0039] The methacrylic acid is preferably present in an amount ranging from 20% by weight to 80% by weight, preferably from 25% by weight to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 35% by weight to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the copolymer.

[0040] The alkyl acrylate is preferably present in an amount ranging from 15% to 80% by weight, preferably from 25% to 75% by weight, more preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the copolymer. It is preferably chosen from methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate and butyl acrylate and, more preferably, ethyl acrylate.

[0041] This copolymer is preferably partially or totally crosslinked with at least a standard polyethylenically unsaturated crosslinking agent, for example, polyalkenyl ethers of sucrose or polyols, diallyl phthalates, divinylbenzene, allyl (meth)acrylate, ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, trimethylolpropane tri(meth)acrylate, diallyl itaconate, diallyl fumarate, diallyl maleate, zinc (meth)acrylate, and castor oil or polyol derivatives made from unsaturated carboxylic acids. The content of crosslinking agent generally ranges from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.03% by weight to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the copolymer.

[0042] According to a preferred form, the copolymer of the present invention may in particular be in the form of a dispersion in water. The average size of the copolymer particles in the dispersion is generally between 10 and 500 nm, preferably between 20 and 200 nm, and more preferably between 50 and 150 nm.

[0043] Mention may be made of the crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate sold by the company LUBRIZOL under the trade name Carbopol Aqua SF1 and bearing the INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer.

[0044] Advantageously, the acrylate copolymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous solvent

[0045] The compositions of the present invention may comprise at least one aqueous solvent.

[0046] Preferably, the aqueous solvent of the composition according to the present invention comprises water.

[0047] In some cases, in addition to water, the aqueous solvent further comprises one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for example C2-C6 polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

[0048] The term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be cited include glycols, for example butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol (i.e. glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.

[0049] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises water.

[0050] Advantageously, the water is present in an amount ranging from 20% to 90% by weight and preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional ingredients

[0051] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more additional ingredients, chosen from those conventionally used in cosmetic products.

[0052] The composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise any of the following additives: pH correcting agents, perfumes, chelating agents and actives.

[0053] Those skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not adversely affected by the additional ingredients. Composition

[0054] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, and in particular from the skin.

[0055] According to the present invention, the composition comprising the above components may be in the form of a lotion, a paste, a cream or a gel, in particular in the form of a gel.

[0056] As is known to those skilled in the cosmetic field, compositions that are too thick or too thin impair pumping performance and cause inconvenience to customers using a container with a pump system. Thus, for a composition that is placed in a container with a pump system, the gel form is the most favorable.

[0057] According to the present invention, the viscosity of the composition is measured at 25°C and atmospheric pressure using a Rheomat RM180® apparatus equipped with an M3 spindle at a rotation speed of 200 rpm after 10 minutes of spindle rotation in the samples. The corresponding value in UD (unit deflection) can be converted to mPa-s, in which 1 UD ~ 42 mPa-s.

[0058] In one embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. an amount of 1% by weight to 20% by weight of at least one amino acid surfactant, b. an amount of 0.5% by weight to 4% by weight of at least one fatty acid salt having from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and c. an amount of 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one acrylate copolymer.

[0059] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, comprising, with respect to the total weight of the composition: a. an amount of 1% by weight to 20% by weight of at least one amino acid surfactant, selected from the group consisting of sodium palmitoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, and mixtures thereof, b. an amount of 0.5% by weight to 4% by weight of at least one fatty acid salt having from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, selected from the group consisting of sodium stearate, potassium stearate, sodium laurate, sodium myristate, sodium palmitate, potassium laurate, potassium myristate, potassium palmitate, and mixtures thereof, c. an amount of 0.1 wt. % to 5 wt. % of at least one acrylate copolymer which is a crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid and an ester thereof comprising a hydrocarbyl group having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl ester, or a crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and a C1-C4 alkyl acrylate, and d. an amount of 20% by weight to 90% by weight of water.

[0060] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. 3% by weight to 10% by weight of sodium cocoyl glycinate, b. 1% by weight to 3.5% by weight of potassium laurate, c. 1% by weight to 3% by weight of acrylate copolymer, and d. 30% by weight to 80% by weight of water.

[0061] By using the components of an amino acid surfactant, a specific amount of a fatty acid salt having 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and an acrylate copolymer, the composition comprising them can achieve desirable stability, rheology and / or foaming performance. Furthermore, when such a composition is disposed in a container with a pump system, a desirable pumping performance can also be achieved. Process and use

[0062] The composition according to the present invention can be used in a process of cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, such as the skin, by being applied to the keratinous materials.

[0063] The composition according to the invention can be applied by any means allowing uniform distribution, preferably using a finger, a palm or a cotton ball, and can be removed by rinsing with water.

[0064] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a process for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, preferably from the skin, comprising the application of the above composition to the keratinous materials.

[0065] In some cases, the process further comprises rinsing the composition with water.

[0066] Preferably, the process further comprises massaging the keratinous materials for 2 seconds to 60 seconds before rinsing the composition.

[0067] According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to the use of at least one fatty acid salt having from 12 to 20 carbon atoms for improving the pumping performance of a composition comprising an amino acid surfactant defined above, in which the fatty acid salt having from 12 to 20 carbon atoms is present in an amount of less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0068] In certain cases, the composition further comprises at least one acrylate copolymer defined above.

[0069] Advantageously, the composition comprises 0.01% by weight to less than 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 4.5% by weight, more preferably 0.5% by weight to 4% by weight, even more preferably 1% by weight to 3.5% by weight, and most preferably 1% by weight to 3% by weight, for example, 0.5% by weight, 1% by weight, 1.5% by weight, 2% by weight, 2.5% by weight, 3% by weight, 3.5% by weight, 4% by weight and 4.5% by weight, of at least one fatty acid salt having from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0070] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples described below, which are given by way of non-limiting illustrations. EXAMPLES

[0071] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0072] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier SODIUM COCOYL GLYCINATE MIAMI SCG(S) MIWON COMMERCIAL POTASSIUM LAURATE LAURATE DE POTASSIUM / MB (DUB LK / MB) STEARINERIE DUBOIS ACRYLATES COPOLYMER CARBOPOL AQUA SF-1 POLYMER LUBRIZOL Comparative Examples 1-4 and Inventive Example 1

[0073] The compositions according to comparative examples (EC.) 1-4 and the inventive example (Ex.) 1 comprising the ingredients listed in Table 2 were prepared, all quantities being expressed as percentages by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of each composition.

[0074] [Tables2] Components Ex. 1 EC. 1 EC. 2 CE. 3 EC. 4 SODIUM COCOYL GLYCINATE 6 6 6 6 6 POTASSIUM LAURATE 3 5 10 - 3 ACRYLATE COPOLYMER 1.65 1.65 1.65 1.65 - WATER QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 Preparation process

[0075] The compositions were prepared from a process comprising the following steps: 1. mixing the acrylate copolymer (if any) with water, and correcting the pH value of the resulting mixture to 7.2 using sodium hydroxide to form Mixture 1; 2. adding amino acid surfactant to Mixture 1 to form Mixture 2; 3. addition of fatty acid salt having 12 to 20 carbon atoms (if applicable) in Mix 2 to form the final composition. Stability test

[0076] For each composition of Inventive Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4, stability was tested by storing the composition respectively at RT, 4°C, 37°C and 45°C for 2 months. Viscosity test

[0077] For each composition of Inventive Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4, the viscosity was measured at 25°C and atmospheric pressure using a Rheomat RM 180® apparatus equipped with an M3 spindle at a rotation speed of 200 rpm after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the composition. Foaming performance test

[0078] Preparation procedure: 1. taking 0.5 mL of each composition of Inventive Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4 under test with a syringe, and 2 x 1 mL of water with pipettes; 2. Rinse hands under running tap water for 2 seconds and deposit 0.5 mL of each composition on the palm(s) using a syringe, then add 1 mL of water using a pipette; 3. perform back and forth movements for 20 turns (2 circles / second) and pause to collect the foam in the palm(s) to prevent the foam from flowing out if necessary; 4. adding another 1 mL of water with a pipette, and making back and forth movements for 20 revolutions (2 circles / second), and pausing to collect the foam in the palm(s) to prevent the foam from flowing out if necessary; and 5. Gather all the foam in one palm.

[0079] Foaming performance was evaluated by the volume of foams obtained at the end of hand rubbing (40 revolutions). Scores from 1 to 5 were given. The higher the score, the better the foaming performance.

[0080] Score 5: very high;

[0081] Score 4: slightly high;

[0082] Score 3: average;

[0083] Score 2: slightly low;

[0084] Score 1: low. Pumping performance test

[0085] The pressing force was measured by a dynamometer (LRX plus) equipped with a stroke regulating device to test the pumping performance of each composition. 150 g of each composition of Inventive Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4 were poured into the same type of container with a pump system respectively and placed on the dynamometer. The adapter was positioned on the actuator, the counters were set to zero (force and stroke), via speed regulation at 63.5 mm / minute, the actuator was pushed to the maximum, the pressing force indicated on the dynamometer was recorded for each composition accordingly. The force was also recorded for empty pumping without loaded composition (i.e. 15 N). The deviation of the pressing force between each composition and empty pumping was calculated and is shown in Table 3.The smaller the difference in pressing force, the better the pumping performance.

[0086] The difference in pressing force (8 to 10 N): very difficult to pump;

[0087] The difference in pressing force (6 to <8 N): difficult to pump;

[0088] The difference in pressing force (4 to <6 N): neither easy nor difficult to pump;

[0089] The difference in pressing force (2 to < 4N): easy to pump;

[0090] The difference in pressing force (0 to < 2N): very easy to pump.

[0091] According to the standards for foaming and pumping performance scores, a score of 3.5 or higher may be considered desirable results, and the results of stability, viscosity, foaming and pumping performance are shown. in Table 3.

[0092] [Tables3] Properties Ex.l EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 Stability (RT, 4°C, 37°C and 45°C for 2 months respectively) Homogeneous at RT, 4°C, 37°C and 45°C for 2 months Homogeneous at RT, 4°C, 37°C and 45°C for 2 months Homogeneous at RT, 4°C, 37°C and 45°C for 2 months Homogeneous at RT, 4°C, 37°C and 45°C for 2 months Phase separation at RT, 4°C, 37°C and 45°C after 2 months Viscosity (mPa-S) Gel (M3 2520) Gel (M3 2940) Thick gel (M3> 3360) Thinner gel (M3 1260) Flowable (M3 <840) Foaming performance 5 / 5 5 / 5 5 / 5 2 / 5 2 / 5 Pumping performance (pressure force deviation / N) 5 7 9 3 1

[0093] It can be seen that only the composition of Inventive Example 1, comprising an amino acid surfactant, an amount of less than 5% by weight of a fatty acid salt having from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and an acrylate copolymer, can simultaneously provide desirable stability and rheology performance, as well as desirable foaming and pumping performance.

[0094] In contrast, each of the compositions of Comparative Examples 3-4, which does not include a fatty acid salt having 12 to 20 carbon atoms or an acrylate copolymer, cannot achieve desirable rheology and / or foaming performance, and the composition of Comparative Example 4, which does not include an acrylate copolymer, is not even stable after being stored at different temperatures for two months.

[0095] Furthermore, even the compositions of Comparative Examples 1-2, which comprise 5 wt% or more of a fatty acid salt having 12 to 20 carbon atoms, cannot provide desirable pumping performance.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition, in particular for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, comprising: a) at least one amino acid surfactant, b) an amount of less than 5% by weight of at least one fatty acid salt having from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, relative to the total weight of the composition, and c) at least one acrylate copolymer.

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the amino acid surfactant is represented by the following formula (A): 0 (A) JL JCH2)a .COOM XY wherein: - Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group having 7 to 21 carbon atoms, - X is hydrogen or a methyl group, - n is 0 or 1, - Y is selected from hydrogen, -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -CH2C6H5, -CH2C2H4OH, -CH2OH, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, -(CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2, -CH2C(O)O M+, -(CH2)2C(O)OH, -(CH2)2C(O)O M+, and - M is a salt-forming cation, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.

3. The composition of claim 2, wherein the amino acid surfactant is selected from salts of alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine and mixtures thereof, and in particular glycine salts; is preferably selected from the group consisting of sodium palmitoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate and mixtures thereof, and more preferably is sodium cocoyl glycinate.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid salt is represented by the following formula (B): (R—C(=O)—O—)nMn+ (B) wherein R is a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain of 11 to 19 carbon atoms, Mn+ is a metal cation, and n is an integer of 1, 2 or 3.

5. The composition of claim 4, wherein the fatty acid salt is selected from the group consisting of magnesium stearate, magnesium oleate, calcium stearate, calcium linoleate, sodium stearate, magnesium arachidonate, magnesium palmitate, magnesium linoleate, calcium arachidonate, calcium myristate, sodium linoleate, sodium isostearate, potassium stearate, sodium laurate, sodium myristate, sodium palmitate, potassium laurate, potassium myristate, potassium palmitate, calcium laurate, calcium palmitate, zinc laurate, zinc myristate, zinc palmitate, zinc stearate, magnesium laurate, magnesium myristate and mixtures thereof; and preferably, the fatty acid salt is potassium laurate.

6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the acrylate copolymer is selected from a crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid and an ester thereof comprising a hydrocarbyl group having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl ester, a crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and C1-C4 alkyl acrylate, and mixtures thereof.

7. A composition according to any preceding claim, further comprising at least one aqueous solvent including water, wherein the water is present in an amount ranging from 20% by weight to 90% by weight, and preferably from 30% by weight to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a) an amount of 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably 3% by weight to 10% by weight, of at least one amino acid surfactant, chosen from the group consisting of sodium palmitoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, and mixtures thereof, b) an amount of 0.5 wt.% to 4 wt.%, preferably 1 wt.% to 3.5 wt.%, of a fatty acid salt having 12 to 20 carbon atoms, selected from the group consisting of sodium stearate, potassium stearate, sodium laurate, sodium myristate, sodium palmitate, potassium laurate, potassium myristate, potassium palmitate, and mixtures thereof, c) an amount of 0.1 wt.% to 5 wt.%, preferably 1 wt.% to 3 wt.%, of an acrylate copolymer which is a crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid and an ester thereof comprising a hydrocarbyl group having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl ester, or a crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic and C1-C4 alkyl acrylate, and d) an amount of 20% by weight to 90% by weight, preferably 30% by weight to 80% by weight, of water.

9. A process for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, comprising a) applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to the keratinous materials, b) massaging the keratinous materials for 2 seconds to 60 seconds, and c) rinsing the composition with water.

10. Use of a fatty acid salt having from 12 to 20 carbon atoms for improving the pumping performance of a composition comprising an amino acid surfactant, wherein the fatty acid salt having from 12 to 20 carbon atoms is present in an amount of less than 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 4.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 1% by weight to 3.5% by weight, and most preferably from 1% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the composition optionally comprises at least one acrylate copolymer.

Citation Information

Patent Citations

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