Cosmetic composition comprising a bis-amino silicone, an amino silicone, a fatty chain cationic surfactant and a fatty ester, and method
The cosmetic composition, featuring a blend of silicones, cationic surfactants, and fatty esters, addresses the issues of greasiness and short-lasting benefits in hair care products, providing long-lasting smoothness, softness, and lightness to hair.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023013722
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-12-07
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-13
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair care compositions often lead to excessive greasiness, a sticky feel, and difficulty in drying, while providing short-lasting benefits, especially for damaged hair.
A cosmetic composition comprising alpha,omega-bis-amino silicones, amino silicones, cationic surfactants with fatty chains, and fatty esters, which provides long-lasting conditioning benefits without leaving a greasy residue.
The composition offers a natural, clean feel, smoothness, softness, and lightness to hair, with excellent detangling properties that last for at least 24 hours and persist after shampooing.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising a bis-amino silicone, an amino silicone, a fatty chain cationic surfactant and a fatty ester, and method
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a combination of particular silicones, one or more particular cationic surfactants and one or more fatty esters. The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular hair, using said composition.
[0002] Hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, as well as by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and / or straightening, or even repeated washing.
[0003] The hair is thus damaged by these different factors and can in the long run become dry, rough, brittle or dull, particularly in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends.
[0004] Thus, to overcome these drawbacks, it is customary to use hair care compositions, in particular intended to condition the hair by providing it with satisfactory cosmetic properties. These hair compositions may be, for example, conditioners, masks or serums, and may be in the form of gels, hair lotions and care creams of varying thickness.
[0005] It is particularly known to use compositions in the form of oily masks or serums containing combinations of oils, silicone and / or non-silicone. However, such compositions still too often lead to excessive greasing of the keratin fibers, which can result in a greasy or even sticky feel to them, and a heavy and loaded visual appearance.
[0006] Furthermore, compositions containing oils, once applied to the hair, frequently lead to unpleasant effects to the touch, in particular the hair tends to be rough and / or to "squeak" (i.e. produce an unpleasant sound effect) in particular when rubbing the hair together while sliding the fingers along the hair from root to tip.
[0007] Furthermore, hair treated with such compositions is not easy or quick to dry.
[0008] Finally, the immediate benefits provided by such compositions are not always sufficient for the most damaged hair and / or tend to fade quickly in over time, or even disappear after shampooing.
[0009] The present invention aims to provide compositions which do not have the drawbacks mentioned above, and which are capable of providing good conditioning properties to the hair, such as a natural and clean feel, a smooth character to the touch and / or visual appearance, shine, softness, flexibility, lightness, a homogeneous coating of the fiber, as well as good detangling properties; these properties being advantageously long-lasting over time.
[0010] The present invention therefore relates in particular to a cosmetic composition, in particular for hair, comprising: (i) one or more alpha,omega-bis-amino silicones, (ii) one or more amino silicones, other than alpha,omega-bis-amino silicones (i),
[0011] (iii) one or more cationic surfactants comprising at least two fatty chains, and
[0012] (iv) one or more fatty esters,
[0013] the weight ratio between the total content of alpha-omega bis-amino silicone(s) (i) on the one hand, and the total content of amino silicone(s) (ii) different from the silicones (i) on the other hand, preferably being greater than or equal to 1.
[0014] The composition according to the invention makes it possible to confer good cosmetic properties on the hair, in particular to provide a very good level of hair care to the hair, in particular to weakened or damaged hair, in particular in terms of smoothness to the touch and visually, softness, suppleness, or even strengthening and / or repair of the hair, in particular damaged ends.
[0015] The composition according to the invention has good qualities of use. It is easy to apply, to spread on the keratin fibers and melts on application.
[0016] If necessary, it is easily removed by simply rinsing the keratin fibers, without leaving them with a greasy feel or appearance.
[0017] Even without rinsing the composition, when it is used as a leave-on for example, the fibers remain light, uncharged and non-sticky, and have a clean feel.
[0018] In addition, this composition has good durability of effects over time (at least for 24 hours) and good persistence of effects, for example after at least one shampoo.
[0019] In particular, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to give the hair, upon application, properties of smoothness, softness, suppleness and lightness; after 1 shampoo, the level of care provided by the composition according to the invention remains very high, in particular on dry hair, on which it is noted that the smooth (slippery) feel is always present, and in a homogeneous manner from the roots to the ends. hair.
[0020] In the present application, and unless otherwise indicated, the term "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more"; and the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...". (i) Alpha, omega-bis-amino silicones
[0021] The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more alpha,omega-bis-amino silicones, i.e. comprising terminal amino groups; this means that the groups located at the end of the chain (the terminal groups in alpha and omega positions) comprise an amino group. The amino group may be a primary, secondary or tertiary amine as well as a quaternary ammonium.
[0022] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more alpha,omega-bis-amino silicones corresponding to formula (I): RRR in which: - the radicals R, independently of one another, represent a hydrogen atom, an OH group or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl group, - the radicals Rb R2, R3 and R4, independently of one another, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group or a C1-C6 aminoalkyl group; - x is between 0 and 6; y is between 0 and 6, and n is such that the molecular mass by weight (Mw) of the amino silicone is between 5,000 and 200,000. Preferably, the radicals R are identical and represent CH3 (methyl). Preferably, RB R2, R3 and R4, independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, preferably linear saturated, C1-C4, better still C2-C4, in particular ethyl; or a C2-C4 aminoalkyl group, in particular of structure -(CaH2a)-NH2 with a = 2 to 4; in particular aminoethyl (-CH2-CH2-NH2). Preferably, x is between 1 and 5, better between 2 and 4, even better x=3. Preferably, y is between 1 and 5, better between 2 and 4, even better y=3. Preferably, x=y. Preferably, n is such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is between 10,000 and 150,000 g / mol, or even between 15,000 and 100,000 g / mol.
[0023] In a preferred embodiment, the alpha-omega amino silicone corresponds to the formula (I) in which R = methyl, x = y = 3 and Ri = R2 = R3 = R4 = H; it is then a bis-aminopropyl dimethicone (INCI name).
[0024] The composition comprises a total content of alpha,omega-bis-amino silicone(s) (i) preferably ranging from 0.001 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.005 to 3% by weight, preferentially 0.01 to 1% by weight, even better still from 0.02 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0025] The composition comprises a total content of alpha,omega-bis-amino silicone(s) of formula (I) preferably ranging from 0.001 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.005 to 3% by weight, preferentially 0.01 to 1%, even better still from 0.02 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (ii) Amino silicones
[0026] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more amino silicones (ii), different from alpha,omega-bis-amino silicones (i).
[0027] The term “amino silicone” means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.
[0028] The weight-average molecular masses of these amino silicones can be measured by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25°C) in polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are p styragel columns. The eluent is THF, the flow rate is 1 ml / min. 200 μl of a 0.5% by weight solution of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is done by refractometry and UVmetry.
[0029] The amino silicones (ii) which can be used in accordance with the invention can be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity ranging from 5*106 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, for example from 1*105 to 1 m2 / s.
[0030] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) (ii) are chosen from, alone or as a mixture: (a) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (IV): (IV) in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight average molecular weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000;
[0031] b) amino silicones corresponding to formula (V): R'aG3a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2b)mO-SiG3aR'a (V)
[0032]
[0033] in which: - G, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, OH, CrC8 alkyl, for example methyl, or CrC8 alkoxy, for example methoxy, group, - a and a', identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a or a' is equal to zero - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1, - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the groups -NR”-QN(R”)2, -N(R”)2, -N+(R”)3 A, -N+ H(R”)2 A, -N+H2(R”) A , -NR”-Q-N+(R”)H2 A , -NR”-Q-N+(R”)2H A and -NR”-QN +(R”)3 A, in which R”, identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide; The amino silicones corresponding to formula (V) can advantageously be chosen from, alone or as a mixture: (A) silicones called “trimethylsilylamodimethicone” corresponding to formula (VI): (VI)
[0034] in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; (B) amino silicones of the following formula (VII):
[0035] (VII) in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n designating a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m designating a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; and - Rb R2, R3, identical or different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in C1-C4, at least one of the radicals R1 to R3 designating an alkoxy radical. Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1. The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3500 to 200,000. (C) amino silicones of the following formula (VIII): (VIII) in which: - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p designating a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q designating a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and - Rb R2, different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in C1-C4, one at less radicals R1 or R2 denoting an alkoxy radical. Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95. The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200000, more preferably from 5000 to 100000 and in particular from 10000 to 50000.
[0036] Commercial products comprising silicones of structure (VII) or (VIII) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different from formulas (VII) or (VIII).
[0037] A product containing amino silicones of structure (VII) is offered by the company WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652. A product containing amino silicones of structure (VIII) is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing amino silicones of structure (VIII) is offered by WACKER under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.
[0038] When these amino silicones are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature but preferably cationic and / or non-ionic. The number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, in particular as amino silicones of formula (VIII), microemulsions are used whose average particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nm (inclusive) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (inclusive). Thus, the microemulsions of amino silicone of formula (VIII) offered under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company WACKER may be used according to the invention.
[0039] (D) amino silicones of the following formula (IX): in which:
[0040] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n designating a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m designating a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear. The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 3500 to 200,000. A silicone with this formula is, for example, XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION from DOW CORNING (INCI name amodimethicone and trideceth-6 and cetrimonium chloride). (E) amino silicones of the following formula (X):
[0041] in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched. The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000. A silicone with this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from DOW CORNING. (c) amino silicones corresponding to formula (XI):
[0042] in which: - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl; - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a C1-C18 divalent alkyleneoxy radical, for example C1-C18 linked to Si by a SiC bond; - Q is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate; - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8; - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50; d) amino silicones of formula (XIII):
[0043] (XIII) in which: - R1, R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group, - R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group, - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and - x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g; e) multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group. Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units of general formulas: [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N(H)-R-] or [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-] in which: - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100; - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably between 4 and 100, more particularly between 5 and 30; - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000; - R' ' is a hydrogen atom or a methyl; - R, identical or different, represent a linear or branched C2-Ci2 divalent hydrocarbon radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially R denote a CH 2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; and - R', identical or different, represent a linear or branched C2-Ci2 divalent hydrocarbon radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R', identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially R' denote -CH(CH3)-CH2-,
[0044] The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85 mol%. The amine level is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2. The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000, more particularly between 10000 and 200000. Examples include silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.
[0045] f) amino silicones of formulae (XIV) and (XV): CH. > I R s -b ; 3 €MS | -»• s R* -s?.............|.......o.......If........æ 4 I CH. NH | (XIV) HR. £ in which: - R, R' and R'”, identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group, - A denotes a C3 alkylene radical; and - m and n are numbers such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000; in which: - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably x ranges from 10 to 2000, and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably y ranges from 1 to 100; - R1 and R2, identical or different, preferably identical, denote an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0046] Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched. In particular, the following divalent groups can be mentioned: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-,
[0047] Preferably, R1 and R2 are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferentially, R1 and R2, identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.
[0048] The amino silicone(s) are preferably of formula (XV) with: - x ranging from 10 to 2,000, and in particular from 100 to 1,000; - ranging from 1 to 100; - A comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and - R1 and R2 being independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferentially, R 1 and R 2, identical or different, being chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.
[0049] A preferred silicone of formula (XV) is bis-cetearylamodimethicone. Mention may be made in particular of the amino silicone sold under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive.
[0050] g) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups on a single chain end or on the side chains, such as those of formula (XVI), (XVII) or (XVIII): Or (XVII) Or HH, (XVIII) --g — 'OO 1 —— In formula (XVI), the values of n and m are such that the weight average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 1000 and 55000. Examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI) include the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the company Shin Etsu.
[0051] In formula (XVII), the value of n is such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 3000. As an example of amino silicones of formula (XVII), we can cite the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.
[0052] In formula (XVIII), the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 50,000. As an example of amino silicones of formula (XVIII), we can cite aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 fluid by the company Dow Corning.
[0053] In a particularly preferred manner, the amino silicone(s) (ii) are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (V), even better from those corresponding to one of the formulas (VI), (VII), (VIII), (IX) and / or (X) above, and even more preferably, the amino silicone(s) (ii) are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (X).
[0054] The total content of the amino silicone(s) (ii) other than the silicones (i), in the composition according to the invention, preferably ranges from 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.005 to 3% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0055] Better still, the total content of amino silicones of formula (V), in particular of amino silicones corresponding to one of the formulas (VI), (VII), (VIII), (IX) and / or (X) above, preferably ranges from 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.005 to 3% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0056] Even better, the total content of amino silicones of formula (X) preferably ranges from 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0057] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of alpha-omega bis-amino silicone(s) (i) on the one hand, and the total content of amino silicone(s) (ii) different from the silicones (i) on the other hand, is greater than or equal to 1, better still greater than or equal to 1.5, even better still greater than or equal to 1.8, preferably greater than or equal to 2. For the sake of clarity, it is specified that this is the ratio (i) / (ii).
[0058] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of alpha-omega bis-amino silicone(s) (i) on the one hand, and the total content of amino silicone(s) (ii) different from the silicones (i) on the other hand, ranges from 1 to 10, better still from 1.5 to 5, even better still from 1.8 to 4, preferentially from 2 to 3.
[0059] Preferably, the total content of alpha-omega bis-amino silicones (i) and of amino silicone(s) (ii) different from the silicones (i) (= the total content of silicones (i) + (ii), i.e. the total content of amino silicones), is between 0.002 and 10% by weight, in particular between 0.005 and 5% by weight, better still between 0.01 and 2% by weight, even better still between 0.05 and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the com- position.
[0060] Preferably, the total content of silicones (amined and non-amined) in the composition according to the invention is between 0.002 and 10% by weight, in particular between 0.005 and 5% by weight, better still between 0.01 and 2% by weight, even better still between 0.05 and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (iii) Cationic surfactants
[0061] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants comprising at least two fatty chains (iii), in particular 2 or 3 fatty chains, preferably 2 fatty chains.
[0062] The term "cationic surfactant" means a positively charged surfactant when it is contained in the composition according to the invention. This surfactant may carry one or more positive permanent charges or contain one or more cationizable functions within the composition according to the invention.
[0063] By fatty chain is meant a carbon chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; or an aromatic cycle; optionally substituted and / or interrupted, for example by a hydroxyl, acetate, amine or amide group; preferably, the fatty chain(s), identical or different, being linear or branched, better linear; saturated or unsaturated, in particular comprising one or more C=C double bonds, preferably saturated or comprising a single C=C double bond.
[0064] In particular, the cationic surfactant(s) (iii) may correspond to the formula (la) as defined below:
[0065] in which:
[0066] - R5 and R6, identical or different, represent an aliphatic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, said aliphatic group possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or halogens; or an aromatic group such as an aryl or alkylaryl group, in particular a benzyl group;
[0067] - R7 and R8, identical or different, represent an aliphatic, linear or branched, containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0068] - Y is a cosmetically acceptable counterion.
[0069] Preferably, R5 represents a benzyl group or a saturated, linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, said aliphatic group possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen and / or nitrogen.
[0070] Preferably, R6 represents a benzyl group or a saturated, linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, said aliphatic group possibly comprising one or more hetero- atoms such as oxygen and / or nitrogen.
[0071] The aliphatic groups are for example chosen from C8-C30 alkyl, C8-C30 alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene(C2-C6), C8-C30 alkylamide, alkyl(C12-C22)amidoalkyl(C2-C6), alkyl(C12-C22)acetate and hydroxyalkyl(C8-C30) groups.
[0072] In particular, R5 may be a saturated linear C8-C30, especially C12-C24, alkyl group, or a (C12-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl group. Preferably, R5 may be a behenyl, cetyl, stearyl or stearamidopropyl radical.
[0073] In particular, R6 may be a saturated linear C8-C30, especially C12-C24, alkyl group or a (C12-C22)alkylacetate group. Preferably, R6 may be a benzyl, behenyl, cetyl, stearyl or myristylacetate radical.
[0074] Preferably, R7 and R8, identical or different, represent a linear saturated alkyl group comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Preferably, R7 and R8 represent a methyl group.
[0075] Preferably, Y- is an anion chosen from halides such as chloride, bromide and iodide; phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Cl-C4)- or alkyl(Cl-C4)aryl-sulfonates.
[0076] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (Ia) are chosen from dialkyl(C8-C30)dimethylammonium salts, and in particular distearyldimethylammonium salts, dicetyldimethylammonium salts, benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.
[0077] More particularly, they are chosen from halides, in particular dialkyl(C8-C30)dimethylammonium chlorides, and in particular halides, in particular distearyldimethylammonium chlorides, halides, in particular dicetyldimethylammonium chlorides, halides, in particular benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, halides, in particular steara-midopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium chlorides; or among the alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfates, in particular the methosulfates, of dialkyl(C8-C30)dimethylammonium, and in particular the alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfates, in particular the methosulfates, of distearyldimethylammonium, the alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfates, in particular the methosulfates, of dicetyldimethylammonium, the alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfates, in particular the methosulfates, of benzyldimethylstearylammonium, the alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfates, in particular the methosulfates, of stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium; as well as their mixtures.
[0078] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (Ia) are chosen from halides, in particular chlorides, or alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfates, in particular methosulfates, of dicetyldimethylammonium.
[0079] The cationic surfactants (iii) may also be chosen from quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (IVa): Q h I x q——N---( C. H ?|O) K 4a
[0080] in which:
[0081] - R42 is selected from C1 to C6 alkyl groups and hydroxyalkyl groups or C1-C6 dihydroxyalkyls;
[0082] - R45 represents a group R48-C(O)-,
[0083] - R43 is chosen from:
[0084] - the group R46-C(O)-,
[0085] - the R47 groups which are linear or C1 to C22 hydrocarbon groups branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted by one or more OH;
[0086] - the hydrogen atom,
[0087] - R44, R46 and R48, identical or different, are chosen from hydro groups C7 to C21 carbon, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;
[0088] - r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;
[0089] - y and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 1 to 10;
[0090] - x is an integer ranging from 0 to 10;
[0091] - X is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion;
[0092] provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15 and that when x is 0 then R43 designates R47.
[0093] The alkyl groups R42 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R42 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl, ethyl or hydroxyethyl group.
[0094] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.
[0095] When Ri3 is a hydrocarbon group R47, it can comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and be optionally substituted by an OH.
[0096] Advantageously, R44, R6 and R8, identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn to C2i hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11 to C2i alkyl and alkenyl groups.
[0097] Preferably, x is 0 or 1. Advantageously, y and / or z is equal to 1. Better still y=z=1.
[0098] Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3.
[0099] The anion X is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or a (Cl-C4)alkylsulfate, more particularly methylsulfate. However, it is possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function. The anion X is even more particularly chloride or methylsulfate.
[0100] More particularly, the quaternary ammonium salts corresponding to formula (IVa) are used in the composition according to the invention, in which:
[0101] R42 denotes a methyl, ethyl or hydroxyethyl group;
[0102] y=z=l and x is equal to 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2 or 3;
[0103] R43 is chosen from the group R46-C(O)-, the methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl groups or hydrocarbons in CM to C22, and the hydrogen atom;
[0104] R44, R46 and R48, identical or different, are chosen from hydrocarbon groups C13 to C17, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably among C13 to Cp alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
[0105] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.
[0106] Examples that may be mentioned include salts (chloride or methosulfate in particular) of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, and mixtures thereof.
[0107] The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, on C10 to C30 fatty acids or on mixtures of C10 to C30 fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol.Such compounds are, for example, marketed under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.
[0108] Mention may be made of salts (chloride or methosulfate in particular) of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmonium, and in particular of dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium, of dio-leoylethylhydroxyethylmonium; mention may also be made of salts of bis-(Isostearoyl / Oleoyl Isopropyl) dimonium, in particular the product Varisoft EQ100 offered by the company Evonik.
[0109] The composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of different cationic surfactants comprising at least two fatty chains (iii), in particular 2 or 3 fatty chains, preferably 2 fatty chains; in particular a mixture of surfactants of formula (Ia) and / or of formula (Iva).
[0110] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, alone or as a mixture, one or more cationic surfactants chosen from:
[0111] - dialkyl(C8-C30)dimethylammonium salts, and in particular distea- ryldimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium salts, benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium salts;
[0112] - diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium salts, diacyloxyethylhydroxye- salts ethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium salts; and in particular dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium salts, dioleoylethylhydroxyethylmonium salts;
[0113] - bis-(Isostearoyl / Oleoyl Isopropyl) dimonium salts;
[0114] said salts being advantageously chosen from halides, in particular chlorides and / or (Cl-C4)alkylsulfates, in particular methosulfates.
[0115] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the cationic surfactant(s) comprising at least two fatty chains (iii) in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0116] Better still, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises the cationic surfactant(s) chosen from, alone or as a mixture, dialkyl(C8-C30)dimethylammonium salts, diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium salts, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium salts; bis-(Isostearoyl / Oleoyl Isopropyl) dimonium salts; in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0117] Even better, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises the cationic surfactant(s) chosen from dialkyl(C8-C30)dimethylammonium salts in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional cationic surfactants
[0118] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more additional cationic surfactants, different from the cationic surfactants comprising at least two fatty chains (iii) above.
[0119] Said additional cationic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, possibly polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0120] Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C s to C 30 hydrocarbon chain.
[0121] Among the quaternary ammonium salts other than cationic surfactants of formula (Ia), we can notably cite:
[0122] (a) cationic surfactants of formula (Ib):
[0123] in which:
[0124] - RI represents an aliphatic group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, said aliphatic group possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or halogens;
[0125] - R2 to R4, identical or different, represent an aliphatic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0126] - X is an anion.
[0127] Preferably, RI represents a saturated, linear or branched aliphatic group, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, said aliphatic group possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen and / or nitrogen.
[0128] The aliphatic groups are for example chosen from C8-C30 alkyl, C8-C30 alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene(C2-C6), C8-C30 alkylamide, alkyl(C12-C22)amidoalkyl(C2-C6), alkyl(C12-C22)acetate and hydroxyalkyl(C8-C30) groups.
[0129] In particular, RI may be a saturated linear C8-C30, especially C12-C24, alkyl group, or a (C12-C22)amidoalkyl (C2-C6) group. Preferably, RI may be a behenyl, cetyl or palmitylamidopropyl radical.
[0130] Preferably, R2 to R4, identical or different, represent a linear saturated alkyl group comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Preferably, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl group.
[0131] Preferably, X- is an anion chosen from halides such as chloride, bromide and iodide; phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Cl-C4)- or alkyl(Cl-C4)aryl-sulfonates.
[0132] (b) quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as for example those of following formula (II): —N( FU ) —CO — FL
[0133] in which,
[0134] - R32 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 atoms of carbon, for example derived from tallow fatty acids,
[0135] - R33 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1 to C4 alkyl group or a group alkenyl or alkyl containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
[0136] - R34 represents a C1 to C4 alkyl group,
[0137] - R35 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1 to C4 alkyl group, and
[0138] - X is an anion, notably chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates, the alkyl and aryl groups of which preferably comprise respectively from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0139] Preferably, R32 and R33 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R34 denotes a methyl group, R35 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.
[0140] (c) quaternary di or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (III):
[0141] in which
[0142] - R36 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,
[0143] - R37 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 atoms of carbon or a group (R36a)(R37a)(R38a)N-(CH2)3, R36a, R37a, R»,. R38, R39, R4o and R^, identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
[0144] - X is an anion notably chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates.
[0145] Such compounds are for example Finquat CT-P proposed by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT proposed by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 75),
[0146] (d) quaternary ammonium salts comprising a single ester function, such as those of the following formula (IVb): hrr —C-- r<2
[0147] in which:
[0148] - R42 is selected from C1 to C6 alkyl groups and hydroxyalkyl groups or C1-C6 dihydroxyalkyls;
[0149] - R43 and R45, identical or different, are chosen from:
[0150] - linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 to C22 hydrocarbon groups,
[0151] - the hydrogen atom,
[0152] - R44 is chosen from C7 to C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;
[0153] - r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;
[0154] - y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
[0155] - x=z=0 ;
[0156] - X is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion;
[0157] provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15.
[0158] The alkyl groups R42 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R42 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
[0159] When R4Î is a hydrocarbon group, it may comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0160] When R45 is a hydrocarbon group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0161] Advantageously, R44 is chosen from Cn to C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly among the C 1 to C 2 i alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
[0162] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
[0163] Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3.
[0164] The anion X is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or a (Cl-C4)alkylsulfate, more particularly methylsulfate. However, it is possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function. The anion X is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.
[0165] More particularly, the ammonium salts of formula (IVb) are used in the composition according to the invention, in which:
[0166] R42 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,
[0167] y=letr=2;
[0168] R43 is selected from methyl, ethyl or C1 to C22 hydrocarbon groups, or the hydrogen atom;
[0169] R45 is the hydrogen atom;
[0170] R44 is chosen from linear or branched Cn to Cp hydrocarbon groups, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably among Cn to Cp alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
[0171] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.
[0172] Mention may be made, for example, alone or in a mixture, of salts (chloride or methosulfate in particular) of monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different.
[0173] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on C10 to C30 fatty acids or on mixtures of C10 to C30 fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin.
[0174] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional cationic surfactants corresponding to formula (Ib), and more particularly one or more additional cationic surfactants chosen from alkyl(C8-C30)trimethylammonium salts, and in particular cetyltrimethylammonium salts, behenyltrimethylammonium salts, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts and mixtures thereof.
[0175] More particularly, the composition comprises one or more additional cationic surfactants chosen from halides, in particular chlorides, of alkyl(C8-C30)trimethylammonium, and in particular halides, in particular chloride, of cetyltrimethylammonium, halides, in particular chloride, of behenyltrimethylammonium, halides, in particular chloride, of palmitylamido- propyltrimethylammonium; or alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfates, in particular methosulfates, of alkyl(C8-C30)trimethylammonium, and in particular alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfates, in particular methosulfate, of cetyltrimethylammonium, alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfates, in particular methosulfate, of behenyltrimethylammonium, alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfates, in particular methosulfate, of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium; and mixtures thereof.
[0176] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional cationic surfactants chosen from halides, in particular chlorides, of cetyltrimethylammonium or behenyltrimethylammonium, and alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfates, in particular methosulfates, of cetyltrimethylammonium or behenyltrimethylammonium.
[0177] When they are present, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises the additional cationic surfactant(s), in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 8% by weight, preferentially from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0178] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the additional cationic surfactant(s) corresponding to formula (Ib), when they are present, in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 8% by weight, preferentially from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (iv) Fatty esters
[0179] The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more fatty esters, that is to say comprising in total at least 8 carbon atoms.
[0180] The number of carbon atoms mentioned above refers to the ester itself.
[0181] These esters may be solid or liquid (at 25°C, 1 atm). For the purposes of this invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3 standard; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “MDSC 2920” by the company TA Instruments.
[0182] Advantageously, the composition comprises at least one solid fatty ester; it may also comprise at least one solid fatty ester and at least one liquid fatty ester.
[0183] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one fatty ester derived from an alcohol comprising at least 8 carbon atoms and / or from a carboxylic acid comprising at least 8 carbon atoms.
[0184] Preferably, the alcohol from which the ester that can be used according to the invention is derived is a saturated, linear or branched monoalcohol, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, more particularly from 9 to 28 carbon atoms, or even from 10 to 24 carbon atoms.
[0185] Preferably, the carboxylic acid from which the ester that can be used according to the invention is derived is saturated, linear or branched, and comprises at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, more particularly from 9 to 24 carbon atoms, or even from 10 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably saturated monocarboxylic acids.
[0186] Preferably, the solid fatty esters are chosen from carboxylic acid esters, preferably monocarboxylic acid esters, saturated, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms and more particularly from 10 to 24 carbon atoms; and saturated monoalcohol esters, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms and more particularly from 10 to 24 carbon atoms.
[0187] Preferably, the liquid fatty esters are chosen from esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or poly-acids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or poly-alcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 8, in particular greater than or equal to 10. Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched. Preferably, the liquid fatty ester is chosen from liquid fatty esters of monoacid and monoalcohol.
[0188] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl, octyldodecyl or isocetyl behenates; isostearyl, lauryl, linoleyl or oleyl lactates; isostearyl, isocetyl, isodecyl or octyl octanoates; decyl or isodecyl oleates; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl or 2-hexyldecyl laurate; isocetyl or isobutyl stearate; isononyl or octyl isononanoates; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl or oleyl erucates; ethyl, isostearyl, 2-octyldecyl and isopropyl palmitates such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; and mixtures thereof.
[0189] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0190] It is also possible to use esters of C4 to C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols. Mention may in particular be made of diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.
[0191] Among the preferred fatty esters that may be used, there may be mentioned, alone or in a mixture:
[0192] - octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, octanoate stearyl, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, octyl pelargonate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate,
[0193] - C8-C32 alkyl palmitates, in particular C9-C26, or even C10-C24, such as that octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate;
[0194] - C8-C32 alkyl myristates, in particular C9-C26, or even C10-C24, such as that cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate;
[0195] - C8-C32 alkyl stearates, in particular C9-C26, or even C10-C24, such as octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate;
[0196] - C8-C32 alkyl isononanoates, in particular C9-C26, or even C10-C24, such as isononyl isononanoate.
[0197] Even more preferably, the composition may comprise one or more fatty esters chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
[0198] - C8-C32 alkyl palmitates, in particular C9-C26, or even C10-C24, such as that octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate;
[0199] - C8-C32 alkyl myristates, in particular C9-C26, or even C10-C24, such as that cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate;
[0200] - C8-C32 alkyl stearates, in particular C9-C26, or even C10-C24, such as octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate.
[0201] Particularly preferably, the composition comprises one or more solid fatty esters chosen from myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate; cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, myristyl myristate; myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.
[0202] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises said fatty ester(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even 0.3 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0203] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises said solid fatty ester(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even 0.3 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0204] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises said ester(s) chosen from myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate; cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, myristyl myristate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, and mixtures thereof, in a total amount ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even 0.3 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty alcohol
[0205] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more fatty alcohols, which may be chosen from liquid fatty alcohols, solid fatty alcohols, as well as their mixtures; advantageously at least one or more solid fatty alcohols.
[0206] The fatty alcohols that can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated. They are also non-silicone (do not contain Si-O bonds).
[0207] The fatty alcohols more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, substituted by at least one, in particular by one or more, hydroxyl groups, in particular by 1 to 4 hydroxyl groups (OH). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0208] The liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are more particularly chosen from alcohols, preferably monoalcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated or branched, comprising from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 24 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned are octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0209] The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are of structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 8 to 32, preferably from 10 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0210] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched monoalcohols, preferably linear and saturated.
[0211] Mention may in particular be made, alone or in a mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0212] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl alcohol.
[0213] When they are present, the composition according to the invention comprises said fatty alcohol(s) in a total amount ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 2 to 10% by weight, even better still 3 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0214] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises said solid fatty alcohol(s) in a total amount ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 2 to 10% by weight, even better still 3 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Other ingredients
[0215] The composition according to the invention may comprise water, preferably in a total content ranging from 65 to 98% by weight, preferably from 75 to 95% by weight, better still from 80 to 92% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0216] It may further comprise one or more organic solvents chosen in particular from linear or branched C1-C6 monoalcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol and C2-C10 polyols and polyol ethers, such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol (1,2-propanediol), propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, hexylene glycol.
[0217] The composition according to the invention may also comprise various adjuvants conventionally used in cosmetic compositions such as, alone or in a mixture: anionic, amphoteric or non-ionic surfactants; organic or mineral thickening agents; antioxidant agents; penetrating agents; sequestering agents; perfumes; dispersing agents; film-forming agents; ceramides; preservatives and opacifying agents. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition(s) envisaged.
[0218] The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers, in particular human fibers, such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined above.
[0219] The composition according to the invention can be applied to dry or wet keratin materials, possibly having previously been washed with a shampoo. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is applied to wet keratin materials.
[0220] The composition according to the invention can be applied with a leave-on time ranging from 1 to 15 minutes, preferably from 2 to 10 minutes.
[0221] After applying the composition according to the invention, the keratin materials can be rinsed with water, before being dried or left to dry. Preferably, there is no rinsing step.
[0222] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Example 1
[0223] The hair care compositions according to the invention (A) or comparative compositions (B1 and B2) are prepared from the following ingredients (% by weight of active material MA):
[0224] [Tables 1] Ingredients A B1 B2 Bis-aminopropyl dimethicone 0.07 0.07 0.07 Amodimethicone 0.03 0.03 0.03 Dicetyldimonium chloride 1 1 1 Cetyl esters 1 - - Cetearyl alcohol 6 6 7 Cetrimonium chloride 1 1 1 Water Qsp 100 Qsp100 Qsp 100
[0225] The compositions thus obtained can be used as a hair care composition, to be rinsed; in particular they can be applied to damp hair previously washed with shampoo and rinsed.
[0226] They can advantageously be applied to damaged hair.
[0227] The quantity of silicon deposited on dried hair is determined by compositions A, B1 and B2; the quantity is measured by X-ray fluorescence spectrometry. mass concentration of silicon element on the hair fiber.
[0228] The composition to be tested is applied to natural locks of hair, previously washed and still damp, at a rate of 0.4g of composition per g of lock; it is left to act for 2 minutes then the lock is rinsed with water for 10 seconds [flow rate = 300 1 / h - Temperature = 38°C] and the locks are dried in a study at 60°C for 30 minutes.
[0229] The quantity of silicon is measured for each of the treated strands.
[0230] The amount of silicon deposited corresponds to the amount of silicon measured at from which we subtract the quantity of silicon present on untreated natural hair (silicon content = measured content - natural silicon content).
[0231] The following results are obtained (average over 3 strands):
[0232] [Tables2] A B1 B2 Quantity of silicon deposited 126 ppm 87 ppm 93 ppm Standard deviation 15 1 22
[0233] It is noted that composition A according to the invention makes it possible to deposit a greater quantity of silicon on the locks of hair in comparison with composition B1 which does not comprise fatty esters, and also with composition B2 which comprises an identical total content of fatty substances (fatty alcohol + fatty ester), but does not comprise fatty ester.
[0234] 2 / The cosmetic performance on wet hair of compositions A and B2.
[0235] Apply 0.4g of Total Repair 5 treatment shampoo (ELSEVE - L'OREAL PARIS) per g of strand sensitized by a bleaching treatment, knead and lather; leave on for 30 seconds then rinse the strand with water for 15 seconds [flow rate = 3001 / h - Temperature = 35°C].
[0236] On washed and still wet hair, apply 0.4 g of the composition to be tested per g of strand; leave for 2 minutes then rinse the strand with water for 10 seconds [flow rate = 3001 / h - Temperature = 35°C].
[0237] The sensory cosmetic performances provided by compositions A and B2 are evaluated on damp hair after rinsing.
[0238] The criteria evaluated are smoothness to the touch and flexibility.
[0239] The evaluation is done blindly by 5 evaluators, who give a score ranging from 0 (very bad) to 5 (very good), in steps of 0.5.
[0240] Smoothness assessment: The assessor takes a lock of hair at the root and slides it between the fingers along the entire length of the lock to the tips. The more uniform and consistent the hair is from root to tip, the fewer rough spots it has, the less it catches the fingers, the better the smoothness to the touch.
[0241] Evaluation of flexibility: the evaluator takes the hair in both hands and tries to bend it. The more easily the hair can be bent and curved, the more malleable it is, the better the flexibility.
[0242] [Tables3] A B2 Smooth Touch 4.5 3.5 Flexibility 4 3
[0243] It is noted that the composition according to the invention provides performance in terms of smoothness to the touch and flexibility, superior to those provided by comparative composition B2 which comprises an identical content (7%) of fatty substances, but of a different nature.
Claims
Claims
1. Cosmetic composition, in particular hair composition, comprising: (i) one or more alpha,omega-bis-amino silicones, (ii) one or more amino silicones, different from the alpha,omega-bis-amino silicones (i), (iii) one or more cationic surfactants comprising at least two fatty chains, and (iv) one or more fatty esters, the weight ratio between the total content of alpha,omega-bis-amino silicone(s) (i) on the one hand, and the total content of amino silicone(s) (ii) different from the silicones (i) on the other hand, preferably being greater than or equal to 1.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the alpha,omega-bis-amino silicone(s) (i) are chosen from silicones corresponding to the following formula (I):
2. RRRK ? 5 i Kà* X '' .V v - VS À. .V ' £ -x RRR in which: - the radicals R, independently of one another, represent a hydrogen atom, an OH group or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl group, - the radicals Rh R2, Ri and R4, independently of one another, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group or a C1-C6 aminoalkyl group; - x is between 0 and 6; y is between 0 and 6, and n is such that the molecular mass by weight (Mw) of the amino silicone is between 5,000 and 200,000;preferably chosen from silicones of formula (I) in which: - the radicals R are identical and represent CH3 (methyl), and / or - RI, R2, R3 and R4, independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, preferably linear saturated, in C1-C4, better C2-C4, in particular ethyl; or a C2-C4 aminoalkyl group, in particular of structure -(CaH2a)-NH2 with a = 2 to 4; in particular aminoethyl, and / or - x is between 1 and 5, better between 2 and 4, even better x=3, and / or; - y is between 1 and 5, better between 2 and 4, even better y=3; preferentially chosen from amino silicones of formula (I) in which R = methyl, x = y = 3 and RI = R2 = R3 = R4 = H.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a total content of alpha,omega-bis-amino silicone(s) (i) ranging from 0.001 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.005 to 3% by weight, preferentially 0.01 to 1% by weight, even better still from 0.02 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the amino silicone(s) (ii) are chosen from, alone or as a mixture: (a) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (IV): (IV) in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight average molecular weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000; b) amino silicones corresponding to the formula (V): R'aG3a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2b)mO-SiG3aR'a (V) in which: - G, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, CrC8 alkyl, for example methyl, or CrC8 alkoxy, for example methoxy, - a and a', identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a or a' is equal to zero - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1, - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is a optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the groups -NR”-QN(R”)2, -N(R”)2, -N+(R”)3 A, -N+H(R”)2 A, -N +H2(R”) A, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)H2 A, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)2H A and -NR”-Q-N+(R”)3 A, in which R”, identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a CrC2o alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide; (c) amino silicones corresponding to formula (XI): in which: - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl; - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a CrCi8 alkylene radical or a divalent CrCi8 alkyleneoxy radical, for example CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond; - Q is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate; - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8; - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50; d) amino silicones of formula (XIII): (XIII) in which: - Rb R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group, - R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group, - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and - x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g; e) multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group. (f) amino silicones of formulae (XIV) and (XV): I Ah I $ $ :î II HH» £ (XIV) in which: - R, R' and R”', identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group, - A denotes a C3 alkylene radical; and - m and n are numbers such that the average molecular mass in compound weight is between 5000 and 500000; (XV) in which: - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably x ranges from 10 to 2000, and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably y ranges from 1 to 100; - R1 and R2, identical or different, preferably identical, denote an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. (g) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes containing primary amine groups on only one chain end or on the side chains, such as those of formula (XVI), (XVII) or (XVIII): Or (XVII) Or ,NH (XVIII) in formula (XVI), the values of n and m being such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 1000 and 55000; in formula (XVII), the value of n being such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 3000; in formula (XVIII), the values of n and m being such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 50,000. preferably, the amino silicone(s) (ii) being chosen from the amino silicones of formula (V), preferentially from those corresponding to one of the following formulas (VI), (VII), (VIII), (IX) and / or (X): (A) silicones called “trimethylsilylamodimethicone” corresponding to formula (VI): (VI) in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; (B) amino silicones of the following formula (VII): (VII) in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n designating a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m designating a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; and - Ri, R2, R3, identical or different, represent a CrC4 hydroxy or alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 designating an alkoxy radical. (C) amino silicones of the following formula (VIII): (VIII) in which: - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p designating a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q designating a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and - Rb R2, different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in C1-C4, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 denoting an alkoxy radical. (D) amino silicones of the following formula (IX): (IX) in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n designating a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m designating a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear. (E) amino silicones of the following formula (X): (X) in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having 4 to 8 atoms of carbon and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the total content of the amino silicone(s) (ii) other than the silicones (i) ranges from 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the weight ratio between the total content of alpha-omega bis-amino silicone(s) (i) on the one hand, and the total content of amino silicone(s) (ii) different from the silicones (i) on the other hand, is greater than or equal to 1, better still greater than or equal to 1.5, even better still greater than or equal to 1.8, preferably greater than or equal to 2.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the cationic surfactant(s) comprising at least two fatty chains (iii) are chosen from, alone or as a mixture: (a) cationic surfactants corresponding to formula (la) below: in which: - R5 and R6, identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, said aliphatic group possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or halogens; or an aromatic group such as an aryl or alkylaryl group, in particular a benzyl group; - R7 and R8, identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; - Y is a cosmetically acceptable counterion;preferably, among dialkyl(C8-C30)dimethylammonium salts, and in particular distearyldimethylammonium salts, dicetyldimethylammonium salts, benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium salts and mixtures thereof. (b) quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (IVa) below:; ç (WWA h X ^4S in which: - R42 is chosen from C1 to C6 alkyl groups and C1 to C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; - R45 represents a group R48-C(O)-, - R43 is chosen from: - the R46-C(O)- group, - the R47 groups which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 to C22 hydrocarbon groups, optionally substituted by one or more OH; - the hydrogen atom, - R44, R46 and R48, identical or different, are chosen from C7 to C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; - r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; - y and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 1 to 10; - x is an integer ranging from 0 to 10; - X is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15 and that when x is 0 then R43 denotes R47. preferably diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, the acyl groups preferably having 14 to 18 carbon atoms; diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmonium salts, and in particular dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium, dioleoylethylhydroxyethylmonium.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising the cationic surfactant(s) comprising at least two fatty chains (iii) in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims further comprising one or more additional cationic surfactants, different from the cationic surfactants comprising at least two fatty chains (iii), preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.2 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one solid fatty ester; in particular at least one solid fatty ester and at least one liquid fatty ester; the solid fatty esters preferably being chosen from saturated carboxylic acid esters, preferably monocarboxylic acid esters, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms and more particularly from 10 to 24 carbon atoms; and saturated monoalcohol esters, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms and more particularly from 10 to 24 carbon atoms.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising said fatty ester(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even 0.3 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising one or more fatty alcohols, in particular chosen from liquid fatty alcohols, solid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; advantageously at least one or more solid fatty alcohols; preferably in a total amount ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 2 to 10% by weight, even better still 3 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising water, preferably in a total content ranging from 65 to 98% by weight, preferably from 75 to 95% by weight, better still from 80 to 92% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers, in particular human fibers, such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Cosmetic composition comprising a bis-amine silicone, a cationic surfactant, a fatty alcohol and a fatty alcohol ester, cosmetic processing method and use
FR3130159A1