Perfumed cosmetic compositions

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, containing from 1 to 40% of at least one perfumed concentrate in the oily phase, and containing less than 8% of ethanol, said composition comprising from 1 to 80% of at least one polyol chosen from glycerin, diglycerin and butylene glycol; from 0.5 to 15% of at least one emulsifier; the droplets of the composition having an average size of 30 to 300 nm, the percentages being given by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The invention also relates to the process for preparing the composition and its use. Figure for abstract: no figure

Description

Title of the invention: Perfumed cosmetic compositions

[0001] The invention relates to perfumed liquid cosmetic compositions, containing low or even zero alcohol contents. The invention also relates to methods for preparing such compositions; it also relates to the use of such compositions, in particular for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials.

[0002] Application FR 3 057 461 describes oil-in-water (O / W) nanoemulsions exhibiting good stability over time and formulated with a hydrophobic modified inulin polymer. However, these compositions do not contain perfume.

[0003] Perfumes are generally formulated from alcoholic extract, and therefore contain significant quantities of alcohol. Ethanol allows the perfuming ingredients to be well solubilized, and is an important vector for perfuming. However, the presence of alcohol can cause intolerance or allergy reactions in people with sensitive skin during repeated applications, or in the event of exposure to the sun. In addition, regulations aim to limit the presence of volatile compounds.

[0004] It is therefore desirable to develop "alcohol-free" perfumes. Such compositions must be liquid, so that they can be vaporized (i.e. diffused in fine droplets, or "spray") during use. These perfumed compositions pose specific difficulties for their stabilization, which generally prevent the integration of high concentrations of perfumed extracts.

[0005] EP1010416 relates to H / W compositions based on a solid surfactant at a temperature temperature less than or equal to 45°C, comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, which can be used for the treatment of dry skin.

[0006] WO02 / 32390 describes perfuming compositions in the form of an emulsion containing polyethoxylated surfactants.

[0007] WO 2021 / 156521 describes perfumed cosmetic compositions containing less than 10% alcohol and stabilized by a mixture of high density oils and hydrogenated lecithin.

[0008] However, there is still a need for perfumed compositions containing perfume contents of the same order as those of classic perfumes and / or eau de toilette and not containing alcohol. It is also desirable to have liquid and "vaporizable" (or sprayable) perfumed compositions that are stable over time.

[0009] There is also a need to have perfumed compositions that do not contain ingredients from the petroleum industry or that are potentially incompatible with formulations meeting the "organic" label. In particular, the presence of ethoxylated derivatives is not desirable in this context.

[0010] Surprisingly, it has been found within the scope of the present invention that these aims and others can be achieved with compositions in the form of H / W nanoemulsions containing polyols.

[0011] This is why the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, containing from 1 to 40% of at least one perfumed concentrate in the oily phase, in particular from 1 to 30%, and in particular from 5 to 20%, and containing less than 8% of ethanol, in particular less than 5% of ethanol, said composition comprising from 1 to 80% of at least one polyol chosen from glycerin, di-glycerin and butylene glycol, from 0.5 to 15% of at least one emulsifier chosen from glyceryl oleate citrate, sorbitan laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, dilauryl citrate, the potassium salt of the esters of phosphoric acid and cetyl alcohol, the sodium salt of N-Stearoyl L-glutamic acid, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate and soybean seed extract, in particular glycine soybean seed extract (glycine soja seed extract) optionally in admixture with glycerin, as well as the mixture of these emulsifiers in all proportions,the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0012] The droplets of the composition have an average size of 30 to 300 nm and preferably of 50 to 200 nm.

[0013] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has droplets with an average size less than or equal to 120 nm, in particular approximately 90 to 1 10 nm. The size can be determined by methods known to those skilled in the art; non-limiting examples include measurement by dynamic light scattering (DLS).

[0014] The compositions according to the present invention are essentially free of ethoxylated derivatives, such as polyethoxylated surfactants. By essentially free is meant that the concentration of such derivatives is zero or less than or equal to 1%.

[0015] According to an advantageous embodiment, the compositions according to the present invention are essentially free of hydrogenated lecithin. By essentially free is meant that the concentration of such derivatives is zero or less than or equal to 1%.

[0016] The invention also relates to a process for preparing such compositions comprising the following steps:

[0017] a) preparation of an aqueous phase containing an aqueous solvent, at least one polyol and optionally an emulsifier and / or at least one stabilizer,

[0018] b) preparation of an oily phase containing at least one oil, a perfumed concentrate and optionally an emulsifier,

[0019] c) introduction of the oily phase into the aqueous phase with stirring at a speed between 1000 and 3000 rpm, to obtain a first emulsion,

[0020] d) introduction of the emulsion obtained at the end of step c into a high pressure homogenizer,

[0021] e) passing the emulsion at least once through the high-pressure homogenizer under temperature conditions of 25 to 50°C and at pressures of 10,000 to 30,000 Psi;

[0022] with the condition that at least one of the oily or aqueous phases contains at least one emulsifier.

[0023] Advantageously, in step a), an aqueous phase is prepared containing an aqueous solvent, a preservation system, at least one polyol and optionally an emulsifier and / or at least one stabilizer.

[0024] The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials comprising the application to the skin and / or hair of a perfumed composition in the form of an H / W emulsion according to the invention or capable of being obtained by the process described here.

[0025] Indeed, the compositions developed within the framework of the present invention can contain high contents of perfumed concentrate, similar to those of alcoholic perfumes, without presenting the drawbacks thereof.

[0026] The compositions according to the invention are considered to be stable. Stability can be assessed by eye and can be considered as an absence of creaming and / or an absence of phase separation between an oily phase and an aqueous phase and / or an absence of coalescence of oil particles in the emulsion.

[0027] It can also be evaluated by measuring the size of the emulsion droplets and the absence of any notable change in the latter over time.

[0028] Stability can for example be observed after storage at 25°C and / or at 50°C for one month and / or at 45°C for three months.

[0029] In this text, unless otherwise specified, percentages are expressed by weight.

[0030] By perfumed concentrate (or perfumed ingredient) within the meaning of the present invention is meant in particular ingredients whose INCI name includes "perfume" (perfume) or "fragrance". This is a compound or mixture of compounds that are at least partially volatile at room temperature and whose odor can be detected. They can belong to different chemical classes and will be adapted by a person skilled in the art according to the desired olfactory effect.

[0031] These may be, for example, essential oils of natural or synthetic origin. ...

[0032] Mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of extracts of flowers, bark, buds, leaves or fruit of plants, such as rosemary leaf extract, orange blossom extract, bergamot extract, lavender extract.

[0033] Examples of essential oils include bergamot, rose, lavender, sandalwood, cardamom, sage, chamomile, clove, lemon balm, mint, cinnamon leaf, juniper, vetiver, frankincense, galbanum and labdanum.

[0034] Examples of fragrance materials of synthetic origin are hedione, ethylene brassilate and habanolide, benzyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, citronellyl acetate, citronellyl formate, geranyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate. , benzyl formate, ethyl methyl phenyl glycinate alkylcyclohexyl propionate, styralyl propionate and benzyl salicylate, benzylethyl ether, linear alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, ionones such as alpha-isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone, a nethol, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol, terpineol, terpenes.

[0035] These compounds often come in the form of a mixture of two or more of these odorous substances.

[0036] These perfumed concentrates are in a non-alcoholic medium. They can be in aqueous or oily phase, generally in oily phase.

[0037] The compositions according to the invention contain low concentrations of ethanol, or are even free of ethanol.

[0038] Preferably, the ethanol content is less than or equal to 3%, advantageously less than or equal to 1%. The compositions may be essentially free of ethanol, i.e. the ethanol concentration is less than or equal to 0.1%, and optionally zero.

[0039] The content of perfumed concentrate in the compositions according to the invention may vary, for example, from 1 to 30%, in particular from 3 to 20%; the concentration of perfumed concentrate may thus be greater than or equal to 3%, in particular greater than or equal to 8%, in particular greater than or equal to 10%. The compositions according to the invention may in particular contain from 8 to 18% of perfumed concentrate and in particular from 10 to 15%.

[0040] The compositions according to the invention are formulated in a physiologically and preferably cosmetically acceptable medium.

[0041] By physiologically acceptable medium is meant a medium compatible with the skin or the appendages. This is in particular a cosmetically acceptable medium. This means a medium or excipients well tolerated by the skin and having a pleasant odor and appearance.

[0042] By cosmetic product or composition is meant a substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact with the superficial parts of the human body or with the teeth and oral mucous membranes, with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, maintaining them in good condition or correcting body odors. A cosmetic treatment process within the meaning of the invention has the same objectives.

[0043] By oily phase is meant a physiologically acceptable oil or mixture of oils. These may be oils of mineral or vegetable origin, synthetic oils and their mixture. It may in particular comprise at least one oil chosen from sweet almond oil, apricot kernel oil, grape seed oil, macadamia oil, sunflower oil, liquid fraction of shea butter, avocado oil, soybean oil, jojoba oil, caprylic / capric triglyceride, the ester of caprylic / capric acid and coconut oil, the diester of caprylyl alcohol and carbonic acid, decyl oleate, or Di-n-octylether.

[0044] The oily phase may further contain fatty substances such as fatty alcohols or fatty acids, such as for example cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol.

[0045] The aqueous phase comprises an aqueous medium, i.e. consisting essentially of water and / or hydrophilic solvents, preferably water. The aqueous phase may comprise in particular water selected from the group consisting of floral waters, steam distilled water derived from plants, distilled water, purified water, hot spring water, deep water and mixtures thereof.

[0046] The aqueous phase may comprise, for example, glycols and / or water-soluble components.

[0047] A steam distilled water derived from plants may be lavender water, rose water, orange blossom water, or mint water.

[0048] The aqueous phase can represent from 10 to 80% of the composition, in particular from 20 to 75%, notably from 25 to 70%.

[0049] The composition according to the invention is liquid. Thus the composition has a viscosity at room temperature of 20 to 600 cps, in particular of 20 to 300 cps. This viscosity can be measured by methods known to those skilled in the art, for example using a Brookfield type viscometer.

[0050] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition further contains at least one additional stabilizing agent and / or emulsifier.

[0051] In particular, it may contain a stabilizing agent chosen from cellulose and its derivatives, a hydrophobic modified inulin polymer (for example inulin lauryl carbamate), bentonite and cetearyl alcohol. Cellulose derivatives include microcrystalline cellulose and cellulose gum.

[0052] The concentration of stabilizing agent, when present in the composition, is generally 0.5 to 5%.

[0053] The concentration of polyols in the composition will be adapted by a person skilled in the art. This concentration will in particular be from 2 to 30%, in particular from 5 to 25%, for example from 10 to 20%.

[0054] The compositions according to the invention optionally contain additives such as ingredients chosen from preservatives, pH adjusters and sequestering agents.

[0055] The nature and content of these additives will be adapted by a person skilled in the art. The total content will generally be less than or equal to 5%, in particular from 0 to 2.5%, in particular from 0.5 to 1%. Preferably, the preservatives are chosen from preservation systems compatible with green chemistry standards.

[0056] In particular, the various constituents of the composition according to the invention preferably meet the criteria set by the ISO 12128 standard, which establishes the criteria for naturalness.

[0057] According to variants of the preparation process according to the invention, step c) is carried out for a period of 2 to 30 min, in particular for 2 to 10 min.

[0058] As indicated in the above, in step e) the emulsion passes at least once through the high-pressure homogenizer. By at least one is meant one or more, and in particular from 1 to 10 times, in particular from 1 to 5 times, for example 2, 3 or 4 passes through the high-pressure homogenizer.

[0059] In steps a) and b) of respective preparation of the aqueous and oily phases, an emulsifier or a mixture of emulsifiers is optionally introduced.

[0060] According to one of the advantageous embodiments of the invention, the polyols present in the composition consist of glycerin, diglycerin, or a mixture of glycerin and diglycerin, in particular glycerin or a mixture of glycerin and diglycerin.

[0061] Such compositions contain in particular an oily emulsifier, preferably an emulsifier with an HLB greater than 4, in particular with an HLB greater than 10, advantageously glyceryl oleate citrate.

[0062] According to a variant of the invention, the composition contains an emulsifier with an HLB greater than 4 which is polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate.

[0063] A composition particularly suitable for implementing the invention thus contains from 5 to 25%, in particular from 10 to 20% of glycerin or a mixture of glycerin and diglycerin, from 0.5 to 15%, in particular from 0.5 to 5%, in particular from 0.5 to 3% of an oily emulsifier which is glyceryl-oleate citrate, and from 1 to 20%, in particular from 5 to 20%, in particular from 8 to 15% of perfumed concentrate. Such a composition is stable over time, without it being necessary to introduce additional emulsifiers or stabilizing agents, which may therefore be absent from the composition. However, according to certain embodiments, at least one emulsifier additional and / or at least one stabilizing agent may be added to said composition.

[0064] The oily phase in the composition containing the oily emulsifier which is glyceryl oleate citrate described above comprises in particular caprylic / capric triglyceride, coconut caprylate / caprate and / or their mixture in any proportions; these components may for example be present at contents of 0.5 to 10%, in particular 0.5 to 5%, in particular 0.5 to 3%.

[0065] As mentioned above, the perfume or perfume concentrate is in the oil phase of the composition.

[0066] The composition may be prepared by the process according to the invention. In particular, the preparation may comprise the following steps.

[0067] At room temperature, the components of the aqueous phase (water, polyols and additives) are mixed with moderate stirring until the mixture is homogeneous.

[0068] The components of the oily phase (emulsifier, oil and perfume concentrate) are mixed with moderate stirring.

[0069] The oily phase is then added to the aqueous phase. The mixture is homogenized with stirring to obtain an emulsion.

[0070] The emulsion is passed through the high pressure homogenizer at 20000PSI or greater than 100MPa.

[0071] According to another embodiment, the emulsifier present in the compositions according to the invention is an aqueous emulsifier with an HLB greater than 10, preferably based on glycerin and glycine soybean extract, optionally mixed with glycerol; advantageously the emulsifier is present at a concentration of 0.5 to 15%, in particular 0.5 to 10%, in particular 1 to 6%.

[0072] The polyols present in the composition consist of glycerin, glycine, or a mixture of glycerin and diglycerin.

[0073] The compositions containing such an aqueous emulsifier preferably contain a stabilizer chosen from an inulin polymer modified with carbamate groups such as inulin lauryl carbamate, an optionally modified cellulose such as microcrystalline cellulose, bentonite and mixtures thereof. Said compositions optionally comprise an additional emulsifier; this additional emulsifier (or co-emulsifier) ​​is an oily emulsifier chosen from sorbitan laurate, Polyglyceryl 4-Laurate, Dilauryl Citrate and mixtures thereof and the sodium salt of N-stearoyl L-glutamic acid. The co-emulsifier(s) may thus be present at a concentration of 0 to 2%.

[0074] The composition may be prepared by the process according to the invention. In particular, the preparation may comprise the following steps:

[0075] At room temperature, the following is dispersed in an aqueous medium with vigorous stirring: microcrystalline cellulose and cellulose gum (and, if applicable, bentonite). The other components of the aqueous phase (water, polyols and additives) are added, followed by the glycine soybean extract last. Homogenize with moderate stirring.

[0076] The components of the oily phase (co-emulsifier, oil and perfume concentrate) are further mixed with moderate stirring.

[0077] The oily phase is added to the aqueous phase. The mixture is homogenized with stirring to obtain an emulsion.

[0078] Perform a pass through the high pressure homogenizer at 20000PSI or greater than 1000MPa.

[0079] According to another embodiment, the emulsifier present in the composition according to the invention is a mixture of oily emulsifiers chosen from sorbitan laurate, Polyglyceryl 4-Laurate and Dilauryl Citrate; advantageously, the oily emulsifier is a mixture of these three compounds.

[0080] The compositions containing such an oily emulsifier preferably contain a stabilizer chosen from an inulin polymer modified by carbamate groups such as inulin lauryl carbamate, an optionally modified cellulose such as microcrystalline cellulose and mixtures thereof or bentonite.

[0081] Advantageously, the polyol in these compositions consists exclusively of glycerin.

[0082] A composition particularly suitable for implementing the invention thus contains from 5 to 25%, in particular from 10 to 20% of glycerin or a mixture of glycerin and diglycerin, from 0.5 to 15%, in particular from 0.5 to 5%, in particular from 0.5 to 3% of an oily emulsifier which is a mixture of sorbitan laurate, Polyglyceryl 4-Laurate and Dilauryl Citrate, and from 1 to 20%, in particular from 5 to 20%, in particular from 8 to 15% of perfumed concentrate.

[0083] According to another embodiment, the emulsifier of the composition according to the invention is an oily emulsifier which is the potassium salt of the esters of phosphoric acid and cetyl alcohol. The composition advantageously contains stabilizers chosen from cetearyl alcohol, an optionally modified cellulose such as microcrystalline cellulose and mixtures thereof.

[0084] The compositions according to the invention, as described above, may further contain at least one cosmetic active agent. This cosmetic active agent may in particular be chosen from anti-pollution agents, moisturizing agents, anti-aging agents, anti-seborrheic agents and anti-stress active agents; antioxidant agents, moisturizing agents; desquamating agents; agents improving the barrier function; agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation; depigmenting agents; anti-glycation agents; NO-synthase inhibitors; agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation; agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts and / or keratinocytes or stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes; muscle relaxants; tensing agents; anti-pollution and / or anti-free radical agents, sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.

[0085] Non-limiting examples of such cosmetic active ingredients include antioxidant agents, among which may be mentioned in particular tocopherol and its esters, in particular tocopherol acetate; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, in particular ascorbyl magnesium phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate; ferulic acid; serine; ellagic acid, phloretin, chelating agents, such as BHT, BHA, N,N'-bis(3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl)ethylenediamine and its salts, rosemary leaf extract, carbohydrate complexes, Shisandra Chinensis fruit extract and mixtures thereof.

[0086] The additional active ingredients may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 10%, in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] Indeed, the stability of the emulsions according to the invention is preserved with the incorporation of significant concentrations of cosmetic active ingredients, in addition to the presence of perfumed concentrate.

[0088] This results in particularly advantageous compositions, since they have both perfuming and care properties.

[0089] The cosmetic treatment process will thus aim to prevent or reduce skin signs such as a dull appearance of the complexion, hyperpigmentation of the skin or heterogeneity of its pigmentation and pigment spots, wrinkles and fine lines, thinning of the skin and loss of firmness and / or elasticity of the skin. The composition is suitable for application to the skin or skin appendages. The composition advantageously makes it possible to combat the signs linked to the action of free radicals on the skin or skin appendages, to restore the energy metabolism of the cell, to stimulate the production of collagen or elastin by the skin, and / or to combat the signs of skin aging.

[0090] The application may, for example, be daily, multi-daily or weekly. It may be continued for several days and / or several weeks, or even longer; it may be continuous or, for example, continued for 1 to 2 months and then resumed after an interruption.

[0091] The compositions according to the invention are liquid, they generally have a viscosity of 20 to 600 cps, in particular of 20 to 300 and in particular of 50 to 300 cps; the viscosity can be measured using a Brookfield type viscometer, as indicated previously.

[0092] They are vaporizable (or "sprayable") by a suitable device, such as a device under pressure projecting fine drops of the emulsion.

[0093] The stability of the compositions according to the invention is evaluated by measuring the evolution of the oil nano-droplets. No phase shift of the emulsion is observed during storage for 1 month at 55°C and / or 3 months at room temperature, 4°C and 45°C.

[0094] The invention will be better understood by reading the examples which follow. Example 1

[0095] A composition according to the invention is prepared with the following formula

[0096] [Tables 1] INCI EU % Water Qsp 100 Glycerin 20 Perfume 10.00 Glyceryl oleate Citrate 3 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 3 Active ingredients* 5.00 pH adjuster qs Preservatives qs 100.000000 *carbohydrate complex, rosemary extract, Shisandra Chinensis fruit extract

[0097] Operating mode:

[0098] At room temperature, mix the components of the aqueous phase (demineralized water, preservatives, glycerin and active ingredients) with moderate stirring until the mixture is homogeneous.

[0099] Mix the components of the oil phase (Glyceryl Oleate Citrate, caprylic / capric triglyceride and perfume) with moderate stirring

[0100] Emulsify: Add the oily phase to the aqueous phase. Homogenize under rotor stator at 2000RPM for 10 min

[0101] Adjust pH

[0102] Pass through high pressure homogenizer at 20000PSI or >100Mpa

[0103] The formula obtained is a sprayable, scented, opaque white liquid emulsion. The preparation is stable for one month at room temperature, 4°C, 45°C and 55°C. The viscosity measured using a Brookfield type viscometer is 32cps. The particle size measured with a DLS is 140nm.

[0104] Example 2: composition according to the invention [Tables 2] INCI EU % Water Qsp 100 Perfume 15.00 Diglycerin 15.00 Glycerin 15.00 Glyceryl oleate citrate 3.00 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 1.00 pH adjuster qs Preservatives Qs 100.00

[0105] Operating mode:

[0106] At room temperature, mix the components of the aqueous phase (demineralized water, diglycerin and glycerin preservatives) with moderate stirring until the mixture is homogeneous.

[0107] Mix the components of the oil phase (Glyceryl Oleate Citrate, caprylic / capric triglyceride and perfume) with moderate stirring

[0108] Emulsify: Add the oily phase to the aqueous phase. Homogenize under rotor stator at 2000RPM for 10 min

[0109] Adjust pH

[0110] Pass through high pressure homogenizer at 20000PSI or >100Mpa

[0111] The formula obtained is a sprayable, scented, opaque white liquid emulsion. The preparation is stable for one month at 55°C, three months at room temperature, 4°C and 45°C. The viscosity measured using a Brookfield type viscometer is around 30cps. The particle size measured with a DLS is 85nm.

[0112] Example 3: : composition according to the invention

[0113] [Tables3] INCI EU % Water Qsp 100 Perfume 12.00 Glycerin 15 Diglycerin 15 Sodium salt of N-Stearoyl L-glutamic acid 1.5 Hydrophobic modified inulin polymer 1.5 Microcrystalline cellulose 1 Glycinated soybean seed extract 1.5 Cellulose gum 0.5 pH adjuster qs Preservatives qs 100.000000

[0114] Operating mode:

[0115] At room temperature, disperse the microcrystalline cellulose and cellulose gum with vigorous stirring (rotor stator 2000RPM) for 15 minutes. Add the other components of the aqueous phase (glycerin, diglycerin, preservatives, hydrophobic modified inulin polymer) then glycerin, and the glycinated soybean seed extract last. Homogenize for 5 minutes with moderate stirring.

[0116] Mix the components of the oil phase (N-stearoyl L-glutamic acid sodium salt, Perfume) with moderate stirring

[0117] Emulsify: Add the oily phase to the aqueous phase. Homogenize under rotor stator at 2000RPM for 10 min

[0118] Adjust pH

[0119] Pass through high pressure homogenizer at 20000PSI or >100MPa.

[0120] The formula obtained is a sprayable, scented, opaque white liquid emulsion. The preparation is stable for one month at 4°C, 25°C, 45°C and 55°C. The viscosity measured using a Brookfield viscometer is 152 cps. The particle size measured with a DLS is 272 nm.

[0121] Example 4: composition according to the invention

[0122] [Tables4] INCI EU % wt Water Qsp 100 Glycerin 20.00 Perfume 10.00 Microcrystalline cellulose 1.00 Cetearyl alcohol 1.00 Potassium salt of the esters of phosphoric acid and cetyl alcohol 0.50 Cellulose gum 0.50 Preservatives qs pH adjuster qs 100.000000

[0123] At room temperature, disperse the microcrystalline cellulose and cellulose gum under vigorous stirring (rotor stator 2000RPM) for 15 minutes. Then heat to 80-85°C. Add the other components of the aqueous phase (glycerin, preservatives, potassium salt of the esters of phosphoric acid and cetyl alcohol) and the oily phase (except the perfume).

[0124] Emulsify: homogenize under rotor stator at 2000RPM for 10 min at 80°C

[0125] Let the product return to 45°C to add the perfume and stir for 10 min at 2500RPM. Let return to room temperature.

[0126] Adjust pH

[0127] Pass through high pressure homogenizer at 20000PSI or >100MPa.

[0128] The formula obtained is a sprayable, scented, opaque white liquid emulsion. The preparation is stable for one month at 4°C, 25°C, 45°C and 55°C. Low viscosity is not measured. The particle size measured with a DLS is 229.5nm.

[0129] Example 5: composition according to the invention

[0130] [Tables5] INCI EU % Water Qsp 100 Glycerin 25.00 Perfume 10.00 Hydrophobic modified inulin polymer 1.00 Bentonite 1.50 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.00 N-Stearoyl L-glutamic acid sodium salt 0.80 Preservatives qs pH adjuster qs 100.000000

[0131] Operating mode:

[0132] At room temperature, disperse the bentonite with vigorous stirring (rotor stator 2500RPM) for 15 minutes. Add the other components of the aqueous phase (glycerin, preservatives, hydrophobic modified inulin polymer and the sodium salt of N-Stearoyl L-glutamic acid)

[0133] Homogenize for 5 minutes with moderate stirring.

[0134] Mix the components of the oil phase (polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, perfume) with moderate stirring

[0135] Emulsion: Add the oily phase to the aqueous phase. Homogenize under rotor stator at 2000RPM for 10 min

[0136] Adjust pH

[0137] Pass through high pressure homogenizer at 20000PSI or >100MPa

[0138] The formula obtained is a sprayable, scented, opaque white liquid emulsion. The preparation is stable for one month at 4°C, 25°C, 45°C and 55°C. The viscosity measured using a Brookfield viscometer is 93 cps. The particle size measured with a DLS is 175 nm.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, containing from 1 to 40% of at least one perfumed concentrate in the oily phase, in particular from 5 to 20%, and containing less than 8% of ethanol, in particular less than 5% of ethanol, said composition comprising from 1 to 80% of at least one polyol chosen from glycerin, diglycerin and butylene glycol, from 0.5 to 15% of at least one emulsifier chosen from glyceryl oleate citrate, sorbitan laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate and dilauryl citrate, potassium salt of the esters of phosphoric acid and cetyl alcohol, sodium salt of N-Stearoyl L-glutamic acid, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate and glycinated soybean seed extract, droplets of the composition having an average size of 30 to 300 nm and preferably of 50 to 200 nm, the percentages being given by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it further comprises at least one stabilizing agent chosen from cellulose and its derivatives, bentonite, a hydrophobic modified inulin polymer, in particular inulin lauryl carbamate and cetearyl alcohol.

3. Composition according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one mixture of emulsifiers.

4. Composition according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyols present in the composition consist of glycerin, diglycerin, or a mixture of glycerin and diglycerin.

5. Composition according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyols are present at a concentration of 2 to 30%, in particular 5 to 25%.

6. Composition according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further contains at least one ingredient chosen from preservatives, pH adjusters and sequestering agents.

7. Composition according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains a cosmetic active agent chosen from anti-pollution agents, moisturizing agents, anti-aging agents, anti-seborrheic agents and anti-stress active agents, anti- oxidants, moisturizing agents; desquamating agents; barrier function improving agents; agents promoting skin microcirculation; depigmenting agents; anti-glycation agents; NO-synthase inhibitors; agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation; agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts and / or keratinocytes or stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes; muscle relaxants; tightening agents; anti-pollution and / or anti-free radical agents, sunscreens, and mixtures thereof in a concentration of 1 to 10% by weight.

8. Composition according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains from 20 to 75% of aqueous phase.

9. Process for preparing a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion according to at least one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a) preparation of an aqueous phase containing an aqueous solvent, at least one polyol and optionally an emulsifier and / or a stabilizer, b) preparation of an oily phase containing at least one oil, a perfumed concentrate and optionally an emulsifier, c) introduction of the oily phase into the aqueous phase with stirring at a speed of between 1000 and 3000 rpm, to obtain a first emulsion, d) introduction of the emulsion obtained at the end of step c into a high-pressure homogenizer, e) passage of the emulsion at least once through the high-pressure homogenizer under temperature conditions of 25 to 50°C and at pressures of 10,000 to 30,000 Psi; with the condition that at least one of the oily or aqueous phases contains at least one emulsifier.

10. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, characterized in that a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, or capable of being obtained by the process according to claim 9, is applied to the skin or hair.