HAIR TREATMENT PROCESSES
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024004724
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-12-20
- Filing Date
- 2024-05-06
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-02
- Estimated Expiration
- 2034-05-06
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair treatments struggle to effectively remove minerals from hair fibers and limit their uptake, leading to dull, dry, and damaged hair, especially after chemical treatments like bleaching and dyeing.
A synergistic combination of amino acids, osmolytes, and carboxylic acids in a treatment composition, applied to the hair to limit mineral capture and remove minerals, thereby enhancing shine and reducing damage.
The treatment composition significantly increases hair shine and reduces signs of damage by effectively limiting mineral uptake and removing minerals from hair fibers, particularly in hair damaged by harsh chemical treatments.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: METHODS HAIR TREATMENT Technical field
[0001] The present disclosure relates to methods of treating hair, for example to remove minerals from hair fibers and / or to limit the uptake of minerals from hair fibers. The methods also improve the shine of the treated hair. CONTEXT
[0002] Consumers desire to have healthy and strong hair. However, although consumers regularly take care of their hair as part of ordinary hygiene routines, for example, by washing and conditioning their hair, this can have a negative impact on the appearance of the hair due to impurities in the water such as minerals. In addition, various hair treatments, such as those for modifying or improving the appearance of the hair, for example by changing the color, style and / or shape of the hair, can damage the hair due to the harsh chemicals used. This damage can actually result in a higher degree of mineral capture in the hair fiber, not only from the water, but also from the hair treatment products themselves.For example, hair that has been dyed and / or bleached may have increased levels of minerals such as copper, magnesium, calcium, zinc, and silicon. As a result, hair that has been bleached, dyed, relaxed, straightened, repeatedly styled, etc., is often dull, dry, frizzy, and generally unpleasant to the touch and appearance. Consumers are therefore seeking compositions and processes to enhance the overall health of the hair, as well as its appearance and feel, for example, to provide hair that is soft and smooth to the touch and also shiny and healthy.
[0003] However, it has proven difficult to formulate compositions that satisfactorily address these desires. For example, some compositions that attempt to address the problem of damage only coat the hair with compounds that can improve the feel and appearance of the hair; however, this approach is only temporary and superficial. Rather than preventing or repairing the hair, this approach simply masks hair damage until the next rinse or wash. Other compositions that attempt to address damage within the hair fiber, for example, by chelation or complexation of minerals have been proposed, but to date, they are unsatisfactory.
[0004] The present inventors have now discovered a synergistic combination of components that is surprisingly effective in treating damaged hair by limiting the capture of minerals in the hair fibers and / or removing minerals from the hair fibers. Hair treated with compositions according to the disclosure exhibits surprisingly increased shine and reduced signs of damage, particularly in hair that has been damaged by harsh chemical treatments. SUMMARY
[0005] The disclosure relates to methods of treating hair, for example to limit the capture of minerals in hair fibers and / or to remove minerals from hair fibers, as well as to increase the shine of treated hair. Compositions that can be used in the methods (also referred to as a "treatment composition") comprise a synergistic combination of one or more amino acids, one or more osmolytes, and one or more carboxylic acids.
[0006] In various embodiments, treatment compositions that may be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, and (d) at least one solvent. The compositions optionally further include (e) at least one additional component selected from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations thereof. The pH of the compositions is generally less than 7 or less than about 6, for example, from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4.
[0007] In some embodiments, treatment compositions that may be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise at least one amino acid selected from basic amino acids, for example, arginine, histidine, lysine, their salts, or combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the total amount of basic amino acids and / or their salts ranges from about 0.1% to about 15%, preferably from about 1% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%, more preferably from about 3% to about 7%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one amino acid selected from acidic or neutral amino acids and their salts, for example, serine.In various embodiments, the total amount of acidic or neutral amino acids and their salts ranges from about 0.01% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 4%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 3%, and most preferably from about 0.25% to about 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In still other embodiments, . the compositions comprise a mixture of basic, acidic and / or neutral amino acids, for example the compositions may comprise arginine and serine. In various embodiments, the total amount of amino acids and their salts ranges from about 0.1% to about 15%, preferably from about 1% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%, more preferably from about 3% to about 7%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0008] In certain preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions that can be used in the methods according to the disclosure comprise one or more amino acids selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the foregoing (particularly alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts), and combinations of two or more thereof.
[0009] In various embodiments, the treatment compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise at least one osmolyte selected from carbohydrate sugars, methylsulfonium compounds, polyamines and / or amino acid derivatives such as betaines, preferably selected from the compounds of formula (II). In various embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition ranges from about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3%, and most preferably from about 2% to about 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.In various embodiments, the treatment composition has a weight ratio of total amino acid to total osmolyte that is equal to or greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 1, preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25.
[0010] In various embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise at least one carboxylic acid selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof, and preferably citric acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof. In various embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts ranges from about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably from about 1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 2% to about 12%, more preferably from about 3% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts and the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 0.7, preferably ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5.
[0011] The solvent may comprise water and / or at least one non-aqueous solvent and, in some embodiments, comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent. Optionally, the treatment compositions comprise water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, and have a total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranging from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 5% to about 20%, more preferably from about 5% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 8% to about 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0012] The treatment compositions may optionally also include at least one additional component selected from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations thereof.
[0013] In some embodiments, treatment compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise (a) at least one amino acid and / or one of its salts, preferably at least one basic amino acid and / or one of its salts, (b) at least one betaine, preferably at least one compound of formula (II), for example glycine betaine, in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, (c) at least one carboxylic acid and / or one of its salts, (d) at least one solvent, preferably comprising at least one polyol, and (e) optionally at least one additional component selected from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations thereof.For example, in at least some embodiments, the treatment composition comprises arginine and the total amount of amino acids ranges from about 1% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and the total amount of carboxylic acids ranges from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The pH of the compositions is generally less than about 7, for example, from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4. In various embodiments, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 18%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.In some embodiments, the treatment composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts, for example arginine, serine, their salts, or their combinations, and the total amount of betaines, preferably selected from the compounds of formula . (II) and their salts, for example glycine betaine, which is equal to or greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 1, preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. In some embodiments, the treatment composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and their salts to the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts that is greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 0.7, preferably from about 0.75 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5.
[0014] In preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise (a) at least one amino carboxylic acid or one of its salts, preferably selected from arginine and / or one of its salts, (b) at least one betaine derivative, preferably selected from glycine betaine, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably selected from citric acid, lactic acid and / or their salts, and (d) water.For example, the composition may comprise (a) from about 2% to about 6% arginine and / or a salt thereof, (b) from about 0.5% to about 3.5% glycine betaine, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably selected from citric acid, lactic acid and / or their salts, and (d) water and optionally at least one non-aqueous solvent, preferably comprising at least one polyol, wherein the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts ranges from about 2% to about 10%, and wherein all amounts are by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The pH of the compositions is generally less than about 7, for example, from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4.In various embodiments, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 18%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and their salts to glycine betaine equal to or greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 1, preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25.In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and their salts to the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 0.7, preferably from about 0.75 to about 2, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5. In some embodiments, the compositions include at least one additional component selected from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations thereof. If present, the compositions comprise . serine in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 2%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 1% by weight, and most preferably from about 0.05% to about 0.5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. When the compositions comprise serine, the compositions may optionally have a weight ratio of total amino acid to serine of greater than about 2, preferably from about 2 to about 15, more preferably from about 4 to about 14, more preferably from about 6 to about 13, and most preferably from about 8 to about 12.When the compositions comprise serine, the compositions may optionally have a weight ratio of glycine betaine to serine greater than about 2, preferably from about 2 to about 10, more preferably from about 3 to about 8, more preferably from about 3.5 to about 7, and most preferably from about 4 to about 6.
[0015] The methods include applying a treatment composition according to the disclosure to the hair to limit the capture of minerals in the hair fibers, remove minerals from the hair fibers, and / or increase the shine of the treated hair. The composition may be left on the hair for an optional resting period and, optionally, rinsed from the hair. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
[0016] [Fig 1A-1B] Figures 1A-1B are graphs showing the elasticity of hair fibers of strands S1-S8 after one treatment (IA) and five treatments (IB).
[0017] [Fig 2A-2B] Figures 2A-2B are graphs showing the elasticity of hair fibers of strands S9-S16 after one treatment (2A) and five treatments (2B).
[0018] [Fig.3] [Fig.3] is a graph showing the elasticity of hair fibers of S17-S21 highlights after five treatments.
[0019] [Fig 4A-4B] Figures 4A-4B are graphs showing the breaking strain of hair fibers treated with compositions according to the disclosure and comparative compositions.
[0020] [Fig 5A-5B] Figures 5A-5B show the structures of certain exemplary osmolytes that may be included in compositions according to the disclosure. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0021] The disclosure relates to methods of treating hair, for example, to limit the capture of minerals in hair fibers and / or to remove minerals from hair fibers. Hair treated according to the disclosure exhibits a surprisingly increased shine and reduced signs of damage. Without wishing to theorize, it is believed that this is due to the unexpected synergistic ability of the combination of amino acids, osmolytes and carboxylic acids to limit the capturing minerals in hair fibers and / or removing minerals from hair fibers, which was not previously known to have this effect. I. COMPOSITIONS
[0022] Treatment compositions that may be used in methods according to the present disclosure comprise (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, and (d) at least one solvent. The compositions may optionally comprise one or more additional components, such as fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations thereof. Amino acids
[0023] Compositions that may be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise at least one amino acid. Optionally, in various embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure may comprise one, two, or three amino acids. Amino acids that may be selected include those that are basic, acidic, or neutral at neutral pH. In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one basic amino acid.
[0024] As used herein, the term "amino acid" includes amino carboxylic acids and their salts as well as amino sulfonic acids and their salts. As used herein, amino acids are understood to be organic compounds containing a carboxylic acid group (-COOH) (amino carboxylic acids) and / or a sulfonic acid group (-S(=O)2 -OH) (amino sulfonic acids) and an amino group (-NH2) which may be primary or secondary, or may be intracyclic, as well as a side chain (R group) specific to each amino acid.
[0025] Amino carboxylic acids that may be selected include, for example, alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, and combinations of two or more of these.Exemplary amino sulfonic acids include aminomethane sulfonic acid, 2-aminoethane sulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropane sulfonic acid, aminobutane sulfonic acid, aminohexane sulfonic acid, aminoisopropyl sulfonic acid, aminododecyl sulfonic acid, aminobenzene sulfonic acid, aminotoluene sulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diamino benzene sulfonic acid, amino phenol sulfonic acid, amino propyl benzene sulfonic acid, amino hexyl benzene sulfonic acid, and combinations of two or more of these. them.
[0026] Amino acid salts are also included in the term "amino acid", whether indicated or not. By way of non-limiting example, salts that may be selected include salts with organic or inorganic bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium or calcium salts; and zinc salts.
[0027] Further, the amino acids may be in the D, L, or DL configuration. In some preferred embodiments, it is advantageous to select amino acids in the L configuration, for example, L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine, L-lysine, or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0028] In certain embodiments, it is particularly advantageous to select one or more amino carboxylic acids. Thus, in various embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more amino acids of formula (I): COOH (I) H — C — R
[0029] in which:
[0030] - p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, and
[0031] - when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, knowing that this ring can be substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or alkyl (C1-C4); or
[0032] - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group (Cl-Cl2) saturated, linear or branched, preferably an alkyl group (C1-C4), optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2, NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring.
[0033] In certain embodiments when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 ring members, this cycle not being substituted.
[0034] In some embodiments when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C1-C4) alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring. In some embodiments, p is preferably 2.
[0035] In some embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise one or more amino acids selected from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the foregoing (particularly alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more thereof. In at least some embodiments, the amino acid compounds in the composition consist essentially of or consist of amino acids selected from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the foregoing (particularly alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0036] In some embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of glycine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of arginine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of proline and / or its salts. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of methionine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of serine and / or its salts.In still further embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of arginine and / or its salts. In still further embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of histidine and / or its salts. In still further embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of lysine and / or its salts. In still further embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of basic amino acids and / or their salts.
[0037] In various embodiments, the total amount of amino acids may range from about 0.1% to about 15%, such as from about 0.1% to about 12%, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5.5%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4.5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3.5%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2.5%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.5% to about 15%, from about 0.5% to about 12%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 5.5%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4.5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3.5%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 1.5%, from about 0.5% to about 1%, from about 1% to about 15%, from about 1% to about 12%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 9%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 5.5%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4.5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3.5%, from about 1% to about 3%,from about 1% to about 2.5%, from about 1% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 1.5%, from about 1.5% to about 15%, from about 1.5% to about 12%, from about 1.5% to about 10%, from about 1.5% to about 9%, from about 1.5% to about 8%, from about 1.5% to about 7%, from about 1.5% to about 6%, from about 1.5% to about 5.5%, from about 1.5% to about 5%, from about 1.5% to about 4.5%, from about 1.5% to about 4%, from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, from about 1.5% to about 3%, from about 1.5% to about 2.5%, from about 1.5% to about 2%, from about 2% to about 15%, from about , 2% to about 12%, from about 2% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 9%, from about 2% to about 8%, from about 2% to about 7%, from about 2% to about 6%, from about 2% to about 5.5%, from about 2% to about 5%, from about 2% to about 4.5%, from about 2% to about 4%, from about 2% to about 3.5%, from about 2% to about 3%, from about 2% to about 2.5%, from about 2.5% to about 15%, from about 2.5% to about 12%, from about 2.5% to about 10%, from about 2.5% to about 9%, from about 2.5% to about 8%, from about 2.5% to about 7%, from about 2.5% to about 6 %, from about 2.5% to about 5.5%, from about 2.5% to about 5%, from about 2.5% to about 4.5%, from about 2.5% to about 4%, from about 2.5% to about 3.5%, from about 2.5% to about 3%, from about 3% to about 15%, from about 3% to about 12%, from about 3% to about 10%, from about 3% to about 9%, from about 3% to about 8%, from about 3% to about 7%, from about 3% to about 6%,from about 3% to about 5.5%, from about 3% to about 5%, from about 3% to about 4.5%, from about 3% to about 4%, from about 3% to about 3.5%, from about 3.5% to about 15%, from about 3.5% to about 12%, from about 3.5% to about 10%, from about 3.5% to about 9%, from about 3.5% to about 8%, from about 3.5% to about 7%, from about 3.5% to about 6%, from about 3.5% to about 5.5%, from about 3.5% to about 5%, from about 3.5% to about 4.5%, %, from about 3.5% to about 4%, from about 4% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 12%, from about 4% to about 10%, from about 4% to about 9%, from about 4% to about 8%, from about 4% to about 7%, from about 4% to about 6%, from about 4% to about 5.5%, from about 4% to about 5%, from about 4% to about 4.5%, from about 4.5% to about 15%, from about 4.5% to about 12%, from about 4.5% to about 10%, from about 4.5% to about 9%, from about 4.5% to about 8%, from about 4.5% to about 7%, from about 4.5% to about 6%, from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, or about 4.5% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.In preferred embodiments, the total amount of amino acids ranges from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, from about 3% to about 7%, from about 3.5% to about 6.5%, from about 3.75% to about 6.25%, from about 4% to about 6%, from about 4.25% to about 5.75%, from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, from about 4.75% to about 5.25%, or from about 4.8% to about 5.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of amino acids may be about 4.5%, about 4.6%, about 4.7%, about 4.8%, about 4.9%, about 5.0%, about 5.1%, about 5.2%, about 5.3%, about 5.4%, or about 5.5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any of the foregoing values as upper and lower limits.In certain preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise a total amount of basic amino acids in any of the above ranges and amounts.
[0038] In a preferred embodiment, the treatment compositions comprise arginine and / or a salt thereof. In another preferred embodiment, where more than one amino acid is present, arginine is present in the composition in an amount greater than the combined amounts of the other amino acids present, for example, arginine comprises more than about 50%, such as more than about 60%, more than about 70%, more than about 80%, more than about 90%, more than about 95%, more than about 98%, or more than about 99% of all amino acids present in the composition. In another preferred embodiment, arginine is the only basic amino acid in the composition.
[0039] In various preferred embodiments, the treatment composition comprises arginine in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 10%, such as from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, preferably from about 3% to about 7%, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably still from about 3.75% to about 6.25%, preferably from about 4% to about 6%, more preferably from about 4.25% to about 5.75%, more preferably still from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, even more preferably from about 4.75% to about 5.25%, and most preferably from about 4.8% to about 5.2%, or may be present in an amount of about 4.5%, about 4.6%, about 4.7%, about 4.8%, about 4.9%, about 5.0%, about 5.1%, about 5.2%, about 5.3%, about 5.4% or about 5.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits.
[0040] In another preferred embodiment, treatment compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise serine and / or a salt thereof. If present, the amount of serine may range from about 0.01% to about 2%, such as from about 0.01% to about 1.5%, from about 0.01% to about 1%, from about 0.01% to about 0.5%, from about 0.01% to about 0.4%, from about 0.01% to about 0.3%, from about 0.01% to about 0.2%, from about 0.01% to about 0.1%, from about 0.05% to about 2%, from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, from about 0.05% to about 1%, from about 0.05% to about 0.5%, from about 0.05% to about 0.4%, from about 0.05% to about 0.3%, from about 0.05% to about 0.2%, from about 0.05% to about 0.1%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, from about 0.1% to about 1% or from about 0.1% to about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.For example, in certain preferred embodiments, the compositions may comprise serine in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 1%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 0.75%, and most preferably from about 0.4% to about 0.6%, such as 0.1%, 0.25%, about 0.5%, about 0.75%, or about 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any of the foregoing values as upper and lower limits.
[0041] In some embodiments, it may be advantageous to select at least one basic amino acid and at least one additional amino acid selected from acidic and / or neutral amino acids. For example, in preferred embodiments, it may be advantageous to include at least one basic amino acid and serine in compositions that may be used in methods according to the disclosure, and to select total amounts of basic amino acids and serine such that the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to the total amount of serine that is greater than about 2, such as greater than about 3, greater than about 4, greater than about 5, or greater than about 6.For example, the composition may have a weight ratio of total basic amino acids to total serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, such as about 4 to about 14, about 6 to about 13, about 8 to about 12, or about 9 to about 11. In other examples, the weight ratio of total basic amino acids to serine may be about 8, about . 9, about 10, about 11, or about 12. In certain preferred embodiments, the composition comprises serine and has a weight ratio of total basic amino acids to serine of from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11, or is about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11, or about 12, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing values as upper and lower limits.
[0042] In still other preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise serine and arginine, and have a weight ratio of arginine to serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11, or is about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11, or about 12, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any of the foregoing values as upper and lower limits. Osmolytes
[0043] Osmolytes are molecules, generally of lower molecular weight, used by cells to maintain cell volume, regulate osmotic pressure and maintain cellular homeostasis, for example in response to environmental stressors. Organic osmolytes include amino carboxylic acids, amino sulfonic acids, their salts and derivatives, carbohydrates such as sugars and sugar alcohols (polyols), polyamines, betaines, methylsulfonium compounds (e.g., dimethylsulfonopropionate) and urea. For the purposes of this disclosure, "osmolytes" include amino carboxylic acid derivatives, amino sulfonic acid derivatives, and salts of the derivatives (collectively referred to herein as "amino acid derivatives"), but do not include the amino carboxylic acids, amino sulfonic acids, or their salts that are described above, and do not include polyols.
[0044] Compositions that may be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise one or more osmolytes, preferably one or more organic osmolytes. In some embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise more than one osmolyte. While not wishing to theorize, it is believed that the use of osmolytes in combination with amino acids according to the disclosure limits the capture of minerals in the hair fibers and / or removes minerals from the hair fibers, wherein the osmolytes and amino acids act together in the hair fibers to prevent the capture and / or remove the presence of such minerals.
[0045] In preferred embodiments, the useful osmolytes are chosen from carbohydrate sugars, polyamines, amino acid derivatives such as betaines, and more preferably are chosen from the compounds of formula (II) or their salts:
[0046] (Rl)(R2)(R3)m-A+-CR4R5-(X)nY (II)
[0047] in which:
[0048] - RI, R2 and R3 are independently selected from alkyl groups C1-C4, preferably C1-C2 alkyl groups, more preferably methyl;
[0049] - A is N or S;
[0050] - m and n are independently 0 or 1;
[0051] - X is a divalent alkyl group (= an alkylene group), linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH) or amino (-NH2); and
[0052] - Y is -COO- or -OSO3-;
[0053] provided that:
[0054] • when A is S, then m = 0 and R4 and R5 are chosen independently from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), preferably (C1-C6), more preferably (C1-C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH or -CONH2;
[0055] • when A is N and m = 0, R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl (Cl- C8) saturated, linear or branched, preferably a (C1-C4) alkyl group; and R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably from 5 to 6 ring members, knowing that this cycle can be substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (C1-C4) alkyl; and
[0056] • when A is N and m = 1, then R4 and R5 are chosen independently from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains) (C1-C10), preferably (C1-C6), more preferably (C1-C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH or -CONH2.
[0057] Useful and non-limiting polyamine compounds may comprise primary and / or secondary and / or tertiary and / or quaternary amine functional groups. For example, polyamines that may be selected include diamines, triamines, tetramines, pentamines and polyamines or polymeric polyamines, such as, for example, hexamethylenediamine, diethylenetetramine, diethylenetriamine, polyethyleneimine (PEI), polyvinylamine, polyetheramine, polylysine, ethylenediamine, 1,3-diaminopropane, cadaverine, spermidine, spermine, putrescine, tetraethylmethylenediamine, triethylenetetramine, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, useful polyamines are selected from putrescine, spermidine and / or spermine.
[0058] Useful and non-limiting examples of betaines include glycine betaine, valine betaine, alanine betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, etc. Betaine salts may also be used and are expressly included in the term "betaine" unless otherwise expressly indicated. In particularly preferred embodiments, the betaines are selected from those corresponding to formula (II). Examples of useful compounds of formula (II) include the compounds shown in Figures 5A and 5B. As shown in [Fig. 5A], in some embodiments, the compounds of formula (II) are in the zwitterionic form, and as shown in [Fig. 5B], in some embodiments, the compounds of formula (II) have a corresponding counterion, X.The counterion is not limited and may be any suitable counterion, for example, a chloride ion, a bromide ion, an iodide ion, a sulfate anion, a sulfonate anion, a methyl sulfate anion, a phosphate anion, a nitrate anion, etc. Thus, as used herein, a "compound of formula (II)" expressly includes both the ionic form of the compound as well as the salt forms, whether or not specified.
[0059] As shown in Figures 5A-5B, examples of useful compounds of formula (II) include betaine and betaine derivatives (referred to herein as "betaines"), e.g., valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyl lysine, glycine betaine (trimethyl glycine), histidine betaine, N-methyl histidine betaine, alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine and / or dimethylsulfoniopropionate. In a preferred embodiment, the osmolyte is glycine betaine (trimethyl glycine), alone or in combination with one or more additional osmolytes, for example one or more additional compounds of formula (II).
[0060] In certain preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II). In additional preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more compounds of formula (II) i.e. a zwitterionic amino acid derivative bearing a quaternary ammonium group and comprising in total from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0061] In certain preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein R1 = R2 = methyl; A is N; and / or Y is COO-. In certain other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein R3 is methyl. In other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein X is a divalent, linear or branched, preferably saturated alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by a group selected from hydroxyl or amino.In still further preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein X is a divalent, linear or branched, preferably saturated alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms (unsubstituted), such as methylene or ethylene.In other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which R4 and R5, which may be the same or different, are selected from a hydrogen atom, a saturated, linear or branched alkyl group (C1-C10), preferably alkyl (C1-C6), more preferably alkyl (C1-C4); a phenyl group; a benzyl group; an alkyl group substituted by a cyclic group (saturated or unsaturated, mono or bicyclic); a cyclic group (saturated or unsaturated, mono or bicyclic) substituted by an alkyl group; all these groups being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl. (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2; more preferably where R4 is hydrogen and / or where R5 is a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched alkyl (C1-C6), more preferably alkyl (C1-C4); optionally substituted by a group selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -COOH or -CONH2. In certain preferred embodiments, when A is N and m = 0, R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably from 5 to 6 ring members, optionally substituted by a hydroxy group. In other preferred embodiments, RI = R2 = methyl, A is N, Y is COO-, and X (if applicable) is a divalent alkyl group which may be straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms.
[0062] In a preferred embodiment, the treatment composition comprises at least one compound of formula (II) in which RI = R2 = R3 = methyl; A is N; Y is COO-; X is a divalent, linear or branched, preferably saturated alkyl group, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by a group selected from hydroxyl or amino, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms (unsubstituted), such as methylene or ethylene; R4 is hydrogen; and R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably from 5 to 6 ring members, optionally substituted by a hydroxy group.
[0063] In preferred embodiments, the osmolyte in the composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more of the compounds shown in Figures 5A and 5B. In more preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise trimethyl glycine (interchangeably referred to as glycine betaine), optionally in combination with at least one additional osmolyte, and in particularly preferred embodiments, the osmolyte in the composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of glycine betaine optionally with at least one additional compound of formula (II).
[0064] Useful and non-limiting examples of carbohydrate sugars that may be used include C3-C6 monosaccharides, for example, pentoses and / or derivatives thereof, or hexoses and / or derivatives thereof. For example, the sugars may optionally be selected from xylose, arabinose, ribose, 2-deoxy-ribose, ribulose, deoxy-ribulose, arabinose, xylulose, allose, altrose, glucose (including dextrose), glucosamine, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, sorbose, psicose, fructose, tagatose, or combinations of two or more thereof. In at least some embodiments, the sugars are selected from disaccharides, e.g., sucrose (also saccharose), maltose, lactose, cellobiose, trehalose, dextran, or from polysaccharides, e.g., maltotriose, starch, dextrins, cellulose, glycogen, or combinations of two or more of these.In some embodiments, the sugars are preferably selected from trehalose, glucose, sucrose, fructose, fructans or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0065] In various embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition may range from about 0.01% to about 15%, such as, for example, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 1%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 9%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 2%, from about 1.5% to about 10%, from about 1.5% to about 9%, from about 1.5% to about 8%, from about 1.5% to about 7%, from about 1.5% to about 6%, from about 1.5% to about 5%, from about 1.5% to about 4%, from about 1.5% to about 3%, from about 1.5% to about 2%, from about 2% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 9%, from about 2% to about 8%, from about 2% to about 7%, from about 2% to about 6%, from about 2% to about 5%, from about 2% to about 4%, from about 2% to about 3%, from about 2.25% to about 10%, from about 2.25% to about 9%, from about 2.25% to about 8%, from about 2.25% to about 7%, from about 2.25% to about 6%, from about 2,25% to about 5%, from about 2.25% to about 4%, from about 2.25% to about 3%, from about 2.5% to about 10%, from about 2.5% to about 9%, from about 2.5% to about 8%, from about 2.5% to about 7%, from about 2.5% to about 6%, from about 2.5% to about 5%, from about 2.5% to about 4%, from about 2.5% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition may be about 2.0%, about 2.1%, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9%, or about 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits.
[0066] In preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise at least one betaine, and the total amount of betaines ranges from about 0.5% to about 5%, for example from about 1% to about 5%, preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% or from about 2% to about 2.5%, more preferably from about 2.25% to about 2.75%, and most preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or may be from about 2.0%, about 2.1%, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9%, or about 3.0% by weight, for example. relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any of the preceding as upper and lower limits.
[0067] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the treatment composition comprises glycine betaine in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 5%, for example from about 1% to about 5%, preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% or from about 2% to about 2.5%, more preferably from about 2.25% to about 2.75%, and most preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or the glycine betaine may be present in an amount of about 2.0%, about 2.1%, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9% or about 3.0%, by weight based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.
[0068] In some embodiments, it may be advantageous to select the amounts of amino acids and osmolytes so as to obtain a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) and their salts in the composition to the total amount of osmolytes in the composition that is greater than about 0.1, for example, greater than about 0.2, greater than about 0.5, greater than about 1, greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2. In various embodiments, the weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) and their salts to the total amount of osmolytes may range from about 0.1 to about 10, such as from about 0.2 to about 8, from about 0.5 to about 6, from about 1 to about 5, from about 1.2 to about 4, or from about 1.5 to about 3.5.In other embodiments, the weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) and their salts to the total amount of osmolytes may range from greater than 1 to about 4, such as from about 1.25 to about 3.5, from about 1.5 to about 3, from about 1.75 to about 2.5, from about 1.75 to about 2.25, or from about 1.8 to about 2.2. For example, the weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) in the composition to the total amount of osmolytes in the composition may be about 1.1, about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1, about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4, or about 2.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing values as upper and lower limits.
[0069] In some embodiments, the compositions comprise a total amount of amino acids selected from compounds of formula (I), and a total amount of osmolytes selected from compounds of formula (II) such that a weight ratio of compounds of formula (I):compounds of formula (II) is greater than about 0.5, greater than about 0.75, or greater than about 1, for example, greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2. In some embodiments, the weight ratio of compounds of formula (I) to compounds of formula (II) in the composition may range from about 0.5 to about 6, for example, from about 1 to about 4, from about 1.25 to about 3.5, from about 1.5 to about 3, from about 1.75 to about 2.5, from about 1.75 to about 4. at about 2.25, or from about 1.8 to about 2.2. For example, the weight ratio of compounds of formula (I):compounds of formula (II) in the composition may be about 0.5, about 0.6, about 0.7, about 0.8, about 0.9, about 1, about 1.1, about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1, about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4, or about 2.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing values as upper and lower limits.
[0070] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the treatment composition comprises arginine and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio of arginine to glycine betaine greater than 1, for example, greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2, for example, from greater than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25.In another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises arginine, serine and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio of the total amount of [arginine + serine] to glycine betaine greater than 1, for example greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2, for example from more than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. Carboxylic acids
[0071] Compositions that may be used in methods according to the disclosure include at least one carboxylic acid. Optionally, the compositions may comprise at least two carboxylic acids, at least three carboxylic acids, etc. According to various embodiments of the disclosure, useful carboxylic acids include organic compounds that include, for example, one (mono-), two (di-), three (tri-) or more acidic functional groups and at least one carbon atom.
[0072] The carboxylic acids that may be used may optionally have a molecular weight of less than about 500 g / mol, less than about 400 g / mol, less than about 300 g / mol, or less than about 200 g / mol. In preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids have a molecular weight of less than about 300 g / mol, or less than about 200 g / mol.
[0073] Salts of carboxylic acids may also be used, and are expressly included in the term "carboxylic acid" unless otherwise expressly indicated. Salts include salts with organic or inorganic bases, for example, alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium or calcium salts; and zinc. Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred in certain embodiments, and in particular sodium salts.
[0074] In preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids comprise from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 18 carbon atoms, from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 14 carbon atoms. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and / or a salt thereof. These (poly)acids are different from the amino acid type compounds described above. Useful (poly)acids comprise at least one -COOH group (in acid or salified form); they can thus comprise a single -COOH group (monoacid) or can comprise more than one, for example two -COOH groups (in acid or salified form), or two or three -COOH groups (in acid or salified form) (polyacids).Useful (poly)acids also comprise at least one -OH group, such as one to three or two to three -OH groups, for example, one, two, or three -OH groups. Preferably, the (poly)acids comprise a total of 2 to 8 or 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and two to three -OH groups, and their hydrocarbon chain is saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and preferably saturated and linear. In certain preferred embodiments, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise a total of 3 to 6 carbon atoms, one to three -OH groups, and two to three -COOH groups (in acid or salified form). Unless otherwise indicated, as used herein, the term "(poly)acid" includes both monobasic and polybasic acids.
[0075] Non-limiting examples of monocarboxylic acids that may be selected include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of lactic acid and / or a salt thereof.
[0076] Non-limiting examples of dicarboxylic acids that may be selected include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the compositions may include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0077] Non-limiting examples of tricarboxylic acids include citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of citric acid and / or a salt thereof.
[0078] In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid(s) may be selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof. In particularly preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids are selected from α-hydroxy acids and their salts, and in particular from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid, and their salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts.In some embodiments, it may be particularly advantageous to select citric acid, lactic acid and / or tartaric acid and / or their salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; preferably citric acid and / or its salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate.
[0079] The total amount of carboxylic acid(s) may range from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, in some embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acids ranges from about 1% to about 15%, such as from about 1% to about 12%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 9%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 5.5%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4.5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3.5%, from about 1% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 2.5%, from about 1% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 1.5%, from about 1.5% to about 15%, from about 1.5% to about 12%, 1.5% to about 10%, from about 1.5% to about 9%, from about 1.5% to about 8%, from about 1.5% to about 7%, from about 1.5% to about 6%, from about 1.5% to about 5.5%, from about 1,5% to about 5%, from about 1.5% to about 4.5%, from about 1.5% to about 4%, from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, from about 1.5% to about 3%, from about 1.5% to about 2.5%, from about 1.5% to about 2%, from about 2% to about 15%, from about 2% to about 12%, from about 2% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 9%, from about 2% to about 8%, from about 2% to about 7%, from about 2% to about 6%, from about 2% to about 5.5%, from about 2% to about 5%, from about 2% to about 4.5%, from about 2% to about 4%, from about 2% to about 3.5%, from about 2% to about 3 %, from about 2% to about 2.5%, from about 2.5% to about 15%, from about 2.5% to about 12%, from about 2.5% to about 10%, %, from about 2.5% to about 9%, from about 2.5% to about 8%, from about 2.5% to about 7%, from about 2.5% to about 6%, from about 2.5% to about 5.5%, from about 2.5% to about 5%, from about 2.5% to about 4.5%, from about 2.5% to about 4%, from about 2.5% to about 3.5%, from about 2.5% to about 3%, from about 3% to about 15%, from about 3% to about 12%, from about 3% to about 10%, from about 3% to about 9%, from about 3% to about 8%, from about 3% to about 7%, from about 3% to about 6%, from about 3% to about 5.5%, from about 3% to about 5%, from about 3% to about 4.5%, from about 3% to about 4%, from about 3% to about 3.5%, from about 3.5% to about 15%, from about 3.5% to about 12%, from about 3.5% to about 10%, from about 3.5% to about 9%, from about 3.5% to about 8%, from about 3.5% to about 7%, from about 3.5% to about 6%, from about 3.5% to about 5.5%, from about 3.5% to about 5%, from about 3.5% to about 4.5%, from about 3,5% to about 4%, from about 4% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 12%, from about 4% to about 10%, from about 4% to about 9%, from about 4% to about 8%, from about 4% to about 7%, from about 4% to about 6%, from about 4% to about 5.5%, from about 4% to about 5%, from about 4% to about 4.5%, from about 4.5% to about 15%, from about 4.5% to about 12%, from about 4.5% to about 10%, from about 4.5% to about 9%, from about 4.5% to about 8%, from about 4.5% to about 7%, from about 4.5% to about 6%, from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, from about 4.5% to about 5%, from about 5% to about 15%, from about 5% to about 12%, from about 5% to about 10%, from about 5% to about 9%, from about 5% to about 8%, from about 5% to about 7%, from about 5% to about 6.5%, from about 5% to about 6%, from about 5% to about 5.5%, from about 5.5% to about 15%, from about 5.5% to about 12%, from about 5.5% to about 10%, from about 5.5% to about 9%,from about 5.5% to about 8%, from about 5.5% to about 7%, from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, from about 5.5% to about 6%, from about 6% to about 15%, from about 6% to about 12%, from about 6% to about 10%, from about 6% to about 9%, from about 6% to about 8%, from about 6% to about 7%, or from about 6% to about 6.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In preferred embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acid(s) ranges from about 0.5% to about 20%, such as from about 2% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 10%, from about 4.5% to about 8%, from about 5% to about 7%, from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, from about 5.7% to about 6.3%, or from about 5.8% to about 6.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, in some preferred embodiments, the treatment composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid selected from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid,their salts, or combinations thereof, and has a total amount of carboxylic acids and salts ranging from about 0.5% to about 20%, such as, than about 2% to about 15%, about 4% to about 10%, preferably about 4.5% to about 8%, more preferably about 5% to about 7%, more preferably about 5.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably still about 5.7% to about 6.3%, and most preferably about 5.8% to about 6.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0080] It may be advantageous in some embodiments to select amounts of amino acids and carboxylic acids such that the composition has a weight ratio of total amino acids to total carboxylic acids greater than about 0.75. For example, in various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of total amino acids to total carboxylic acids greater than about 0.8, such as greater than about 0.9, greater than about 1, greater than about 1.1, greater than about 1.2, greater than about 1.3, greater than about 1.4, or greater than about 1.5. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of total amino acids to total carboxylic acids ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, such as about 0.8 to about 1.5, about 0.8 to about 1.35, or about 0.8 to about 1.2.In certain preferred embodiments, the composition comprises arginine and at least one carboxylic acid selected from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, their salts, or combinations thereof, and has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and their salts to the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.35, and most preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.2. Solvents
[0081] Compositions that may be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise at least one solvent. In various embodiments, the solvents may be selected from water, non-aqueous solvents, or a combination thereof.
[0082] In some embodiments, the solvent includes water. In some embodiments, the composition comprises from about 50% to about 98% water, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition comprises water in an amount ranging from 50% to about 95% by weight, such as from about 50% to about 90%, from about 55% to about 90%, from about 60% to about 90% by weight, or from about 60% to about 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0083] In other preferred embodiments, the solvent includes at least one non-aqueous solvent. Non-limiting examples of non-aqueous solvents that may be used include, for example, glycerin, C1-4 alcohols, organic solvents, fatty alcohols, fatty ethers, fatty esters, polyols, glycols, vegetable oils, mineral oils, liposomes, lamellar lipid materials, or combinations thereof. The non-aqueous solvent may be selected from organic solvents, for example, monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or their ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.
[0084] Preferably, the treatment compositions comprise at least one polyol. The polyols may be selected from diols and triols. In other embodiments, the polyols may be selected from C2-C16 polyols, such as C2-C12 polyols, C2-C8 polyols or C3-C8 polyols. In various embodiments, the polyols that may be used are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted polyols. Thus, in various embodiments, one or more polyols may be selected from C2-C16, C2-C12, C2-C8 or C3-C8 diols, or C2-C16, C2-C12, C2-C8 or C3-C8 triols, either of which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted.
[0085] By way of non-limiting example, polyols such as isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or their ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol may be chosen.In some embodiments, the polyols are selected from propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, heptanediol, octanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, trimethylolpropane, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 4-methylmethyl-1,2-pentanediol, or combinations of two or more thereof. In certain preferred embodiments, the polyols are selected from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, . triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, and combinations of two or more thereof. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the solvent comprises at least one polyol selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, glycerin, or combinations of two or more thereof. In at least some preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of one or more C2-C16 diols and / or C2-C16 triols, e.g., C2-C8 diols and / or C2-C8 triols.In other preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of one or more glycols, for example propylene glycol and / or dipropylene glycol, and in particularly preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of dipropylene glycol.
[0086] If present, the total amount of aqueous solvents in the composition may range from about 0.1% to about 20%, from about 1% to about 20%, from about 1.5% to about 15%, or from about 2% to about 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In certain preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, preferably selected from polyols.In some embodiments, the composition comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, wherein the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 0.5% to about 18%, preferably from about 1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 11%, and most preferably from about 3% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and optionally, wherein the non-aqueous solvent comprises at least one preferred solvent from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, or mixtures of two or more thereof, preferably selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, or a mixture of two or more thereof. Surfactants
[0087] Compositions that may be used in methods according to the disclosure may optionally comprise at least one surfactant. For example, the compositions may comprise one or more cationic surfactants, and / or amphoteric surfactants, and in some embodiments the compositions may comprise mixtures of surfactants having the same or different ionicities.
[0088] Although the compositions may optionally include one or more anionic surfactants and / or nonionic surfactants, in at least some embodiments, the compositions are free or substantially free of anionic surfactants and / or nonionic surfactants. For example, in some embodiments, the compositions comprise less than about 3%, such as less than about 2.5%, less than about 2%, less than about 1.75%, less than about 1.5%, less than about 1.25%, less than about 1%, less than about 0.75%, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.25%, less than about 0.2%, less than about 0.1%, less than about 0.05%, less than about 0.01%, or less than about 0.001% of anionic surfactants and / or nonionic surfactants.
[0089] In at least some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant. The term "cationic surfactant" refers to a surfactant that can be positively charged when contained in the composition(s) according to the disclosure. This surfactant may carry one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more cationizable functionalities in the composition according to the disclosure. Other non-limiting examples of useful cationic surfactants include brassicamidopropyl chloride, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetylamine hydrofluoride, chlorallylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium-15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quatemium-5), dodecyl dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium chloride (Quatemium-14), Quaternium-22, Quatemium-26,Quaternium-18 hectorite, dimethylaminoethylchloride hydrochloride, cysteine hydrochloride, diethanolammonium phosphate POE(10) oleyl ether, diethanolammonium phosphate POE(3) oleyl ether, tallow alkonium chloride, dimethyl dioctadecylammoniumbentonite, stearalkonium chloride, domiphene bromide, denatonium benzoate, myristalkonium chloride, laurtrimonium chloride, ethylenediamine dihydrochloride, guanidine hydrochloride, pyridoxine HCl, iofetamine hydrochloride, meglumine hydrochloride, methylbenzethonium chloride, myrtrimonium bromide, oleyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-1, procaine hydrochloride, cocobetaine, stearalkonium bentonite, hectonite stearalkonium, stearyl trihydroxyethyl propylenediamine dihydrofluoride, sulfrimonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethyl ammonium bromide, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, or combinations thereof. In preferred embodiments,the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant chosen from brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, chloride of, behentrimonium, cetrimonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, or combinations of two or more of these.
[0090] If present, the total amount of cationic surfactants may be up to about 10%, such as up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7%, up to about 6%, up to about 5%, up to about 4%, up to about 3.5%, up to about 3%, up to about 2.5%, up to about 2%, up to about 1.5%, up to about 1%, or up to about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of cationic surfactants may be from about 0.001% to about 10%, from about 0.01% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, or from about 0.5% to about 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.In at least some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant, and have a total amount of cationic surfactants ranging from about 0.25% to about 8%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 7%, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 6% and most preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0091] In at least some embodiments, the composition comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant. Non-limiting examples of useful amphoteric surfactants include secondary and tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives where the aliphatic radical may be straight or branched chain and one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms and one contains an anionic group such as carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate. Examples of amphoteric surfactants include sodium cocaminopropionate, sodium cocaminodipropionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, sodium cornamphopropionate, sodium lauraminopropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, sodium cornamphopropionate, sodium lauriminodipropionate, ammonium cocaminopropionate,cocaminodipropionate d'ammonium, cocoamphoacétate d'ammonium, cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate d'ammonium, cocoamphopropionate d'ammonium, cornamphopropionate d'ammonium, lauraminopropionate d'ammonium, lauroamphoacétate d'ammonium, lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate d'ammonium, lauroamphopropionate d'ammonium, cornamphopropionate d'ammonium, lauriminodipropionate d'ammonium, cocaminopropionate de triéthanolamine, cocaminodipropionate de triéthanolamine, cocoamphoacétate de triéthanolamine, cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate de triéthanolamine, cocoamphopropionate de triéthanolamine, cornamphopropionate de , triethanolamine, triethanolamine lauraminopropionate, triethanolamine lauroamphoacetate, triethanolamine lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, triethanolamine lauroamphopropionate, triethanolamine cornamphopropionate, triethanolamine lauriminodipropionate, cocoamphodipropionic acid, diosdic caproamphodiacetate, diosdic caproamphoadipropionate, diosdic capryloamphodiacetate, diosdic capryloamphodipriopionate, disodium cocoamphocarboxyethylhydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium dicarboxyethylcocopropylenediamine, disodium laureth-5 carboxyamphodiacetate, disodium lauriminodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium oleoamphodipropionate, Disodium PPG-2-isodecethyl-7 carboxyamphodiacetate, lauraminopropionic acid, lauroamphodipropionic acid, lauryl aminopropylglycine and lauryl diethylenediaminoglycine.
[0092] Betaine surfactants may also be used. For example, coco dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl alphacarboxyethyl betaine, cetyl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, cetyl dimethyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxyethyl) carboxymethyl betaine, stearyl bis-(2-hydroxypropyl) carboxymethyl betaine, oleyl dimethyl gamma-carboxypropyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxypropyl) alpha-carboxyethyl betaine, coco dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, stearyl dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl sulfoethyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxyethyl) sulfopropyl betaine, oleyl betaine or cocamidopropyl betaine may be selected.
[0093] If present, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may be up to about 10%, such as up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7%, up to about 6%, up to about 5%, up to about 4%, up to about 3.5%, up to about 3%, up to about 2.5%, up to about 2%, up to about 1.5%, up to about 1%, or up to about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may be from about 0.001% to about 6%, from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, or from about 0.5% to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In at least some other embodiments, the compositions are free or substantially free of amphoteric surfactants.
[0094] In certain preferred embodiments, the surfactant does not include behentrimonium chloride. In certain preferred embodiments, the surfactant comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more alkylamidoamines, for example, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine. Fatty compounds
[0095] Optionally, compositions that may be used in methods according to the disclosure may include at least one fatty compound. In some embodiments, the at least one fatty compound may be selected from lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, oils such as mineral, vegetable, animal, silicone and non-silicone oils, silicone and non-silicone waxes, or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0096] In some embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure include at least one fatty compound selected from volatile and non-volatile silicone oils, which may optionally be amino-functionalized. Non-limiting examples of silicone oils that may be used include dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone and stearoxytrimethylsilane.For example, the composition may comprise at least one silicone selected from amodimethicone, PEG-7 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-14 dimethicone, PEG-17 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-3 / 10 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-4 / 12 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-17 / 18 dimethicone, cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone benzoate, PEG-7 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-8 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-10 dimethicone phosphate, or a mixture of two or more of them. In certain preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise a silicone oil component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of dimethicone, amodimethicone, or a mixture thereof.
[0097] As further examples, the silicone oil may be selected from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.
[0098] In some embodiments, compositions that may be used in methods according to the disclosure include at least one fatty compound selected from fatty alcohols. In some embodiments, "fatty alcohol" refers to any alcohol with a carbon chain of C5 or more, such as, for example, C8 or more, C10 or more, or C12 or more, such as from 6 to 30 carbon atoms or from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Fatty alcohols may be alkoxylated or unalkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched.
[0099] For example, the fatty alcohols may be chosen from arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, coconut alcohol, decyl alcohol, hydrogenated tallow alcohol, jojoba alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palm alcohol, palm kernel alcohol, stearyl alcohol, tallow alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, or combinations of two or more thereof. In certain preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise a fatty alcohol component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.
[0100] Useful and non-limiting fatty acids may be straight or branched chain acids and / or may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include dibasic, tribasic, and other multiple acids as well as salts of these fatty acids. For example, the fatty acid may optionally include or be selected from lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arachidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, or combinations thereof.
[0101] In some embodiments, fatty acid esters or fatty alcohol esters may be selected. For example, esters of linear or branched C1-C26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyacids and linear or branched C1-C26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being more particularly greater than or equal to 10, may be used. In other embodiments, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used. By way of non-limiting examples, isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate, (iso)stearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, isocetyl isostearate,cetyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, isocetyl isostearate, isocetyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl oleate, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl palmitate, methyl acetyl ricinoleate, myristyl stearate, octyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate,dioctyl maleate, glyceryl undecylenate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, monoricinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate, triisopropyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate and / or polyethylene glycol distearates may be selected. In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one fatty acid ester and / or one fatty alcohol ester, for example pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.
[0102] In some embodiments, compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise at least one wax. Non-limiting examples of waxes that may be used include beeswax, hydrogenated olive alkyl esters, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cork or sugarcane fiber wax, rice wax, rice bran wax, montan wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, hydrogenated palm kernel glycerides / palm glycerides, palm butter, sumac wax, aurantium dulcium (orange) peel wax, theobroma grandiflorum butter, helianthus annuus (sunflower) wax, siliconyl candelilla wax, Chinese wax, cetyl palmitate, lanolin, shellac, spermaceti, esters of cetyl, hydrogenated castor wax;triglyceride esters such as tribehenin (glyceryl tribehenate); synthetic waxes such as hydrocarbon waxes and polyethylene waxes obtained by polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene, polypropylene waxes, or mixtures of two or more of these waxes. In certain preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise a wax component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of cetyl esters.;
[0103] In some embodiments, the composition comprises one or more fatty compounds selected from oils of animal, vegetable or mineral origin (e.g., lanolin, squalene, fish oil, perhydrosqualene, mink oil, turtle oil, soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, peanut oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, cucumber oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, wheat germ oil, calophyllum oil, macadamia oil, coconut oil, cereal germ oil, bancoul nut oil, thistle oil, candelilla oil, safflower oil, safflower oil or shea butter), linear or branched hydrocarbons (e.g., polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, polydecenes such as polydecene hydrogenated, or also linear, branched and / or cyclic alkanes which are optionally volatile, such as, for example, isohexadecane, isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane), mono- and / or polyesters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols (for example, mono- and polyesters of hydroxy acids and fatty alcohols, esters of benzoic acid and fatty alcohols, polyesters of polyols, C5-C9 dipentaerythrityl esters, trimethylolpropane polyesters, propylene glycol polyesters or hydrogenated castor oil polyesters), perfluorinated and / or organofluorinated oils, fluorosilicone oils, or mixtures of two or more of them. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids that may be used optionally include branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, isostearic acid, or mixtures of two or more thereof.
[0104] If present, the total amount of fatty compounds in the composition may range from about 0.1% to about 20%, such as from about 1% to about 20%, from about 2% to about 15%, from about 3% to about 12%, or from about 5% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In certain preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one fatty compound selected from silicone oils, fatty alcohols, waxes, or combinations thereof, wherein the total amount of fatty compounds in the composition ranges from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 15%, more preferably from about 3% to about 12%, and most preferably from about 5% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Thickening agents
[0105] Compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure optionally comprise at least one thickening agent. Useful thickening agents include, but are not limited to, semi-synthetic polymers, such as semi-synthetic cellulose derivatives, synthetic polymers, such as carbomers, poloxamers, and acrylate / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymers, acrylate copolymers, polyethyleneimines (e.g., PEL10), natural polymers, such as acacia, tragacanth, alginates (e.g., sodium alginate), carrageenan, vegetable gums, such as xanthan gum, guar gum, petroleum jelly, waxes, related particulate colloids, such as bentonite, colloidal silicon dioxide, and microcrystalline cellulose, celluloses such as hydroethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose, and guars such as hydroxypropyl guar.
[0106] In some embodiments, the thickening agent may be selected from associative thickening polymers such as anionic associative polymers, amphoteric associative polymers, cationic associative polymers or nonionic associative polymers. A non-limiting example of an amphoteric associative polymer is acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, and non-limiting examples of anionic associative polymers include acrylates copolymer and acrylates-4 crosslinked polymer.
[0107] If present, the total amount of thickening agents may range from about 0.01% to about 8%, such as from about 0.05% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.2% to about 3%, or from about 0.3% to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Auxiliary components
[0108] Compositions that may be used in methods according to the disclosure may optionally include one or more auxiliary components. Non-limiting examples include preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, vitamin derivatives, ceramides, botanical extracts, proteins, protein hydrolysates, protein isolates, hydrotropes, pearling agents, buffers, sequestering agents, and the like.
[0109] The total amount of auxiliary components, if present, typically ranges from about 0.01% to about 10%, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, in some embodiments, the individual amounts of each component or the total amount of components may range from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3%, or from about 1% to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0110] Compositions that may be used in methods according to the disclosure typically have a pH of less than or equal to about 7, such as less than or equal to about 6, less than or equal to about 5, less than or equal to about 4.5, or less than or equal to about 4. For example, the compositions may have a pH ranging from about 1 to about 7, such as from about 2 to about 6, from about 2.5 to about 5.5, from about 2.5 to about 5, from about 2.5 to about 4.5, or from about 3 to about 4. In some embodiments, the pH of the composition may be, for example, about 3, about 3.25, about 3.5, about 3.75, or about 4, including all intermediate ranges and subranges.
[0111] The compositions may be in any suitable form. For example, the compositions may be a liquid, a gel, a gel-cream, a high, medium or low density cream, a serum, a lotion, etc. II. PROCESSES
[0112] The disclosure relates to methods of treating hair, for example, to limit the capture of minerals in hair fibers and / or to remove minerals from hair fibers. While not wishing to theorize, it is believed that the compositions described herein function in an entirely different and novel manner compared to known chelating or complexing agents that typically bind to minerals. Surprisingly, hair treated according to the disclosure exhibits increased shine and reduced signs of damage, including increased strength and / or reduced elasticity, particularly hair that has been damaged by harsh chemical treatments such as bleaching, dyeing, perming, straightening, relaxing, etc., even when compared to hair treated with other products claimed to repair similarly damaged hair.
[0113] The methods include applying a treatment composition according to the disclosure to the hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for a period of time ("treatment period", "resting period" or "setting period"), and optionally rinsing the composition from the hair.
[0114] The application period may be for a time deemed appropriate to allow the active agents to provide benefits to the hair, such as about 30 seconds, about 1 minute, about 2 minutes, about 5 minutes, about 10 minutes, about 15 minutes, about 20 minutes, about 30 minutes, about 45 minutes, about 1 hour, about 2 hours, about 4 hours, about 6 hours, about 8 hours, about 10 hours, about 12 hours, about 16 hours, about 20 hours, about 24 hours, etc., or may vary by a period of time using any of the foregoing values as upper and lower limits.By way of non-limiting example, the application period may range from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 4 hours, from approximately 5 minutes to approximately 2 hours, from approximately 10 minutes to approximately 1.5 hours, from approximately 20 minutes to approximately 1 hour, from approximately 1 hour to approximately 12 hours, from approximately 2 hours to approximately 10 hours, from approximately 4 hours to approximately 8 hours, from approximately 8 hours to approximately 24 hours, from approximately 8 hours to approximately 12 hours, etc. For example, an application time may be overnight or until the next rinsing or shampooing of the hair according to the user's usual hygiene rules.
[0115] Although not required, methods of using the treatment composition according to the disclosure may also include a step of heating the hair to which the composition has been applied, for example during the resting period while the composition is on the hair. For example, a hair dryer, a hair dryer hood, etc., may be used.
[0116] At least in some embodiments, the hair that may be treated according to the disclosed methods may be hair that has been previously bleached, dyed, straightened, relaxed, etc. It will be understood that the hair that is treated according to various methods described herein may be hair that has been previously subjected to such chemical treatments and is therefore in need of repair, mineral removal, or the like. Thus, the methods may occur within any time period following a chemical treatment such that benefits of repair, mineral removal, etc., are desired. For example, the methods may occur within six months following a chemical treatment such as a bleaching, dyeing, straightening, relaxing treatment, etc., such as within five months, within four months, within three months, within two months, within three months, within three weeks, within two weeks, within five days, within four days, within three days, within two days, within one day, within 12 hours, within 8 hours, within 6 hours, within 4 hours, within 2 hours, or within one hour of such treatment. The time period within which the methods according to the disclosure are contemplated to be performed is not limited.
[0117] In an exemplary embodiment, a hair treatment composition according to the disclosure may be applied to hair, for example, to limit the capture of minerals in and / or remove minerals from the hair fiber, to improve the general health and appearance of the hair, to improve the elasticity of the hair fibers, to prevent or reduce damage to the hair fibers, etc., by applying a composition to wet, damp, or dry hair, leaving the composition on the hair for an appropriate processing time, optionally rinsing the hair, and then, optionally, drying and / or styling the hair according to the individual's routine.
[0118] In other exemplary embodiments, a hair treatment composition according to the disclosure may be applied to the hair before, during, and / or after a chemical hair treatment process. For example, such a routine may include applying a composition according to the disclosure to wet, damp, or dry hair, leaving the composition on the hair for an appropriate treatment time, optionally rinsing the hair, and then substantially immediately thereafter (i.e., within the same chemical hair treatment process), preferably with an intervening rinsing of the hair, applying to the hair a chemical treatment such as a bleaching, coloring, straightening, relaxing, or permanent waving composition.Another such routine may include the application of a chemical treatment such as a bleaching, dyeing, straightening, relaxing or permanent waving composition to the hair, and substantially immediately thereafter (i.e. within . of the same chemical hair treatment process), preferably with intermediate rinsing of the hair, applying a hair treatment composition according to the disclosure to the hair. Thus, it is contemplated that the compositions according to the disclosure may be incorporated into a chemical hair treatment process, thereby reducing, minimizing or preventing damage to the hair that might otherwise result from such harsh chemical treatments.
[0119] Surprisingly, hair treated with compositions and methods according to the disclosure exhibits less damage than hair not treated with compositions and methods according to the disclosure, at least in part due to the reduced presence of minerals in the hair fiber. The reduction in damage is particularly notable in hair damaged due to harsh chemical treatments, such as bleaching, dyeing, perming, straightening, relaxing, etc., as well as due to repeated styling, for example, with heat or styling tools. Hair repaired using compositions and methods according to the disclosure may exhibit lower elasticity and / or higher tensile strength than similarly damaged but untreated hair according to the disclosure, even when compared to hair treated with other products intended to repair hair damage.
[0120] The expression "and / or" should be understood to include both the conjunctive and the disjunctive. For example, "amino acids and / or their salts" means "amino acids and their salts" as well as "amino acids or their salts", and expressly covers either.
[0121] As used herein, the term "salts" throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not limiting. Salts also include a dissociated form of a compound, for example, in an aqueous solution.
[0122] As used herein, if a component is described as being present "in an amount less than or equal to" a certain amount, it is intended that such component is in fact present in the composition, i.e., is present in an amount greater than 0%.
[0123] All quantities stated herein are relative to the amount of active ingredient unless otherwise stated.
[0124] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present disclosure, unless otherwise indicated.
[0125] As used herein, the term "applying a composition to the hair", and variations thereof, is intended to mean contacting the hair with at least one of the compositions of the disclosure, in any manner. It may also refer to contact with the hair in an effective amount.
[0126] The term "treating the hair" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refers to applying the compositions of the present disclosure to the surface of the hair. The term "treating the hair" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to contacting the hair with the compositions of the present disclosure.
[0127] As used herein, the phrases "limiting the uptake of minerals from hair fibers," "removing minerals from hair fibers," and similar language mean that hair treated with compositions according to the disclosure has lower amounts of minerals present within the hair fiber than hair not treated according to the disclosure. Although the limitation or removal of minerals achieved will vary, it is intended that any amount of reduced mineral content in the hair is encompassed by the methods of the disclosure. The content and amount of minerals present in the hair fiber may be determined by various methods known in the art such as various spectroscopy techniques, e.g., atomic absorption spectrometry, atomic fluorescence spectrometry, etc.
[0128] Use of the term "minerals," which may also be referred to as "metals" by those skilled in the art, is intended to refer to minerals such as calcium, magnesium, copper, iron, zinc, or the like, which are not generally present in natural hair. Unless otherwise indicated, the term "mineral" encompasses both ionic and salt forms.
[0129] Unless otherwise defined for any specific embodiment, the term "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein means that there is less than about 5% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, compositions may include less than about 4%, less than about 3%, less than about 2%, less than about 1.5%, less than about 1%, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.1%, less than about 0.01%, less than about 0.001%, or less than about 0.0001% of the specified material. A composition that is "free" of a component is deemed to contain no amount of the specified component.
[0130] The following examples serve to illustrate embodiments of the present disclosure without, however, being of a limiting nature EXAMPLES
[0131] The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and explanatory in nature only. In the Examples, unless otherwise indicated, quantities are expressed as a percentage by weight (% by weight) of active ingredients, relative to the total weight of the composition. Example #1 - Processing Compositions
[0132] Compositions 1A-1G according to the disclosure were prepared as shown in Table 1. The pH of each of compositions 1A-1G was about 3.5.
[0133] [Table 1]
[0134] [Tables 1] IA IB IC 1D 1E 1F IG Basic amino acid(s) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 2.0 Glycine betaine 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Citric and / or lactic acid 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 4.1 Neutral amino acid(s) 0.5 Preservative(s) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Solvents (water and / or non-aqueous solvents) QS QS QS QS QS QS QS
[0135] The compositions contained a synergistic combination of components: carboxylic acids (citric and / or lactic acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine) and amino acids (arginine and / or serine).
[0136] Example 2- Assessment of damage repair
[0137] In order to evaluate the ability of the compositions which can be used in methods according to the disclosure to minimize, prevent or repair damage to hair, the following studies were conducted. Example 2A#- Ultra-bleached hair
[0138] Eight strands (S1-S8) of virgin Caucasian hair were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleach powder:oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of about 55°C for about 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed, and then seven of the strands (S1-S7) were subjected to the following treatment routines (strand S8 did not undergo any treatment after rinsing the bleaching composition from the hair).
[0139] The SI strand was cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to sit on the strand for a period of about one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioning composition was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to sit for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated daily for five days.
[0140] Strands S2-S7 were each cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to sit on the strand for a period of about one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all of the shampoo was removed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioning composition was applied and distributed to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to sit for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately, one of compositions 1A-1F (Table 2A) was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to sit for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated daily for five days.
[0141] [Table 2] TABLE 2A IA IB IC 1D 1E 1F Wick S2 S3 S4 S5 S6 S7
[0143] The integrity of the hair fibers in each of the strands S1-S8 was studied after the first and fifth days. Elasticity was assessed to determine whether the hair fibers stretched, and if so, whether they returned to their original state (lower elasticity, i.e., healthy), whether the fibers stretched easily and remained stretched (higher elasticity, i.e., damaged), or whether the hair fibers broke during testing.
[0144] The evaluation was performed by stretching a standardized amount of wet hair fibers, with two experts independently evaluating each strand. The experts were trained to stretch the area of the strand being evaluated by uniformly applying manual pulling force using their hands / fingers. The strand behavior was ranked by each expert according to a 6-level scale as follows, with the result reported for each strand being the average of the two:
[0145] 0 = Natural, healthy hair (no damage);
[0146] 1 = Low elasticity (when stretched, hair fibers exhibit a slight elasticity, returning to the initial state after testing);
[0147] 2 = Moderate elasticity (when stretched, hair fibers exhibit a elasticity, returning to the initial state after the test);
[0148] 3 = High elasticity (when stretched, hair fibers exhibit a elasticity and some hair fibers do not return to the initial state after testing);
[0149] 4 = Very high elasticity (when stretched, hair fibers exhibit elasticity and most hair fibers do not return to their original state after testing); and
[0150] 5 = Immediate breakage (when stretched, hair fibers exhibit a high elasticity and break during testing).
[0151] The results showed that the hair fibers of strands S2-S7, treated with one of the compositions 1A-1F, surprisingly exhibited lower elasticity than the fibers of strands SI or S8 both after day 1 ([Fig.lA]) and day 5 ([Fig.lB]). In other words, the hair of strands SI and S8 were damaged by the aggressive bleaching process, resulting in increased elasticity, while the damage to strands S2-S7 had been repaired by treatment with one of the compositions 1A-1F. Example 2B# - Straightened and ultra-bleached hair
[0152] Eight strands (S9-S16) of Caucasian hair that had previously been straightened using formaldehyde were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (hydrogen peroxide 40V) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleach powder:oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of about 55°C for about 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed, and then seven of the strands (S9-S15) were subjected to the following treatment routines.
[0153] The S9 strand was cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to sit on the strand for a period of approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all of the shampoo was removed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioning composition was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to sit for a resting period of approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in hair straightener serum were applied to the hair. The treatment was repeated a second time. This treatment protocol was repeated daily for five days.
[0154] Strands S10-S15 were each cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to sit on the strand for a period of about one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all of the shampoo was removed. Immediately, one of compositions 1A-1F (Table 2B) was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to sit for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately, a commercially available conditioning composition was applied and distributed to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to sit for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly.A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in hair straightener serum were applied to the hair. This treatment protocol was repeated daily for five days.
[0155] [Table 3] TABLE 2B IA IB IC 1D 1E 1F Wick S10 SU S12 S13 S14 S15
[0157] The integrity of the hair fibers of each of the strands S9-S16 was studied in the same manner as described in Example 2A. The results showed that the hair fibers of the strands S10-S15, treated with one of the compositions 1A-1F, surprisingly exhibited lower elasticity than the fibers of the strands S9 and S16 both after day 1 ([Fig.2A]) and day 5 ([Fig.2B]).
[0158] Examples 2A-2B therefore demonstrate that treating hair that has been damaged by harsh chemical processes with a composition according to the disclosure surprisingly repairs the damage, leaving the hair less elastic than without treatment. Example #3#- Treatment compositions
[0159] Compositions 2A-2E according to the disclosure were prepared as shown in Table 3.
[0160] [Table 4]
[0161] [Tables3] 2A 2B 2C 2D 2E Basic amino acid(s) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Glycine betaine 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Citric acid 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 Silicone oil(s) (dimethicone 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3 1.0 and / or amodimethicone) Fatty alcohol(s) (stearyl alcohol and / or cetearyl alcohol) 4.5 4.5 6.0 5.0 6.0 Cetyl esters 1.0 Cationic surfactant(s) (cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride and / or stearamid opropyl dimethylamine) 1.6 1.6 1.6 2.5 1.6 Cocamidopropyl betaine 1.1 1.1 1.1 0.2 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.8 1.0 1.5 1.5 0.4 Auxiliary component(s) (pH adjusters, preservatives, v itamines, extracts) <2 <2 <2 <2 <2 Solvents (water and non-aqueous solvents) QS QS QS QS QS Measured pH 3.7 3.7 3.7 3.7 4.0
[0162] The compositions contained a synergistic combination of components: carboxylic acids (citric acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine) and amino acids (arginine).
[0163] Example 4- Assessment of damage repair
[0164] In order to evaluate the ability of the compositions according to the disclosure to minimize, prevent or repair damage to hair, the following studies were conducted.
[0165] A comparative product, Cl, had the following list of ingredients on the packaging: Water (Aqua / Water), Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate, Propylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Glycerin, Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Quaternium-91, Sodium Benzoate, Cetrimonium Methosulfate, Cetrimonium Chloride, Fragrance (Parfum), Tetrasodium EDTA, Polyquaternium-37, Benzyl Benzoate, Etidronic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Phytantriol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Panthenol, Jusenja (China) Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate.Composition Cl, which is described as a "pre-shampoo hair treatment that reduces breakage and split ends for visibly healthier hair," is touted as part of a system that claims its ability to "reform broken disulfide bonds damaged by chemical conditioning, heat, and styling." The . Instructions for composition Cl are to use the product before using the shampoo ("Cl-S") and conditioner ("Cl-C") that are part of this system, both of which include bis-aminopropyldiglycol dimaleate as the indicated active agent.
[0166] Example 4A- Ultra-bleached hair: Elasticity and resistance
[0167] Five strands (S17-S21) of virgin Caucasian hair were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleach powder:oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of about 55°C for about 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed, and then four of the strands (S17-S20) were subjected to the following treatment routines (strand S21 did not undergo any treatment after rinsing the bleaching composition from the hair).
[0168] The S17 strand was cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to remain on the strand for a period of approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all of the shampoo was removed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioning composition was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.
[0169] Strands S18 and S19 were each cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to remain on the strand for a period of about one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all of the shampoo was removed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioning composition was applied and distributed to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately, one of compositions 2D (S 18) or 2B (S 19) was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.
[0170] The strand S20 was treated with the composition Cl by applying the composition to the strand and distributing it so as to ensure that the hair was completely coated. The composition Cl was left on the hair for a resting period of approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately, the The strand was cleansed with Cl-S shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to sit on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately, Cl-C conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to sit for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.
[0171] Once the five treatments of the strands S17-S20 were finalized, the integrity of the hair fibers of each of the strands S17-S21 was studied in the same manner as that described in Example 2A. The results showed that the hair fibers of the strands S18 and S19, treated with the compositions 2D and 2B respectively, had lower elasticity than the fibers of the strands S17 and S20-S21 ([Fig.3]).
[0172] Next, the strength was evaluated using a Dia-Stron fiber tensile testing instrument known as MTT (Miniature Tensile Tester). The results showed that the hair in strands S18 and S19, treated with compositions 2D and 2B respectively, was surprisingly stronger than the hair in strands S17 or S20, meaning that a greater force was required to break the individual hair fibers in strands S18-S19. [Fig.4A] shows the breaking stress (MPa) for a control strand (CTL), consisting of the same hair but not bleached, strand S17, which was bleached but without further treatment, and strands S18 and S19, treated with compositions 2D and 2B respectively, and strand S20, treated with the comparative compositions. As shown in [Fig.4A], the breaking strain of the control strand (CTL) was more than double that of strand S17, demonstrating the significant damage caused by the bleaching process. After five (5) treatments with composition 2D (strand S18), 2B (strand S19), or the comparative compositions (S20), the breaking strain of the treated strands increased compared to strand S17. Surprisingly, the increase in breaking strain for strands S18-S19 was considered statistically significant compared to that of strand S20, meaning that compositions 2D and 2B repaired the hair to a greater extent than the comparative compositions.
[0173] Example 4B - Straightened and ultra-bleached hair: Elasticity
[0174] Four strands (S22-S25) of Caucasian hair that had been previously straightened using formaldehyde were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (hydrogen peroxide 40V) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleach powder:oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of about 55°C. for approximately 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed and, for a five-week treatment period, each of the four strands was subjected to the following routine twice a week.
[0175] First, the strands were cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to sit on the strand for a period of about one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioning composition was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to sit for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in hair straightener serum were applied to the hair.
[0176] Three of the strands (S22-S24) were subjected to the following additional treatment routines once a week during the 5-week period.
[0177] The S22 strand was cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to remain on the strand for a period of approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all of the shampoo was removed. A mask composition was applied to the hair and left on the hair, after which the hair was rinsed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in hair straightener serum were applied to the hair.
[0178] The S23 strand was cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to remain on the strand for a period of about one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately, Composition 2C was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately, a commercially available conditioning composition was applied and distributed to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in hair straightener serum were applied to the hair.
[0179] Strand S24 was treated with composition C1 by applying the composition to the strand and distributing it so as to ensure that the hair was fully coated. Composition C1 was left on the hair for a resting period of approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately, the strand was cleansed with shampoo C1-S by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to remain on the strand for a period of approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately, conditioner C1-C was applied to the strand and distributed so as to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly.A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in hair straightener serum were applied to the hair.
[0180] After the five-week treatment period, the elasticity and strength of the hair fibers of each of the strands S22-S25 were investigated in the same manner as described in Example 2A. The results showed that the hair fibers of strand S23, treated with composition 2C, exhibited lower elasticity than the fibers of any of the strands S22 or S24-S25.
[0181] Example 4C - Straightened and ultra-bleached hair: Resistance
[0182] Four strands (S26-S29) of Caucasian hair that had been previously straightened using formaldehyde were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (hydrogen peroxide 40V) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleach powder:oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of about 55°C for about 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed and, during a treatment period of five weeks, each of the four strands was subjected to the following routine.
[0183] First, the strands were cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to sit on the strand for a period of about one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioning composition was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to sit for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in hair straightener serum were applied to the hair.
[0184] Three of the strands (S27-S29) were subjected to the following additional treatment routines once a week during the 5-week period.
[0185] Strands S27 and S28 were cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to remain on the strand for a period of about one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. One of compositions 2B (S28) or 2D (S27) was applied to the hair and left on the hair, after which the hair was rinsed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioning composition was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in hair straightener serum were applied to the hair.
[0186] Strand S29 was treated with composition C1 by applying the composition to the strand and distributing it to ensure that the hair was fully coated. Composition C1 was left on the hair for a resting period of approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately, the strand was cleansed with shampoo C1-S by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to remain on the strand for a period of approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately, conditioner C1-C was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly.A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in hair straightener serum were applied to the hair.
[0187] MTT tests were carried out in the same manner as described in Example 4A. The results showed that the hair in strands S27 and S28, treated with compositions 2D and 2B respectively, was surprisingly stronger than the hair in strands S26 or S29, meaning that a greater force was required to break the individual hair fibers in strands S27-S28. [Fig.4B] shows the breaking stress (MPa) for a control strand (CTL), consisting of the same hair but not bleached, strand S26, which was bleached but without further treatment, strands S27 and S28, treated with compositions 2D and 2B respectively, and strand S29, treated with the comparative compositions. As shown in [Fig.4B], the breaking stress of the control strand (CTL) was about three times higher than that of the S26 strand, showing the significant damage caused by the bleaching process.After five (5) treatments with composition 2B (wick S28), 2D (wick S27), the breaking stress of the treated wicks was increased compared to wick S26, and the improvement was considered statistically significant. [Fig.4B] however shows that the breaking stress. fracture of the wick treated with the comparative composition (S29) did not show any improvement in the fracture stress.
[0188] Examples 4A-4C thus demonstrate that treating hair that has been damaged by harsh chemical processes with a composition according to the disclosure surprisingly repairs the damage. The damage repair achieved with compositions according to the disclosure is also surprisingly greater than that achieved with a commercial product that claims to do the same. Example 5 - Compositions
[0189] Composition 3A according to the disclosure and a comparative composition C1 were prepared as shown in Table 4A.
[0190] [Table 5] TABLE 4A 3A Cl Basic amino acid(s) 5.0 5.0 Glycine betaine 2.5 Citric acid 6.1 6.1 Preservative(s) 0.5 0.5 Water QS QS
[0192] Composition 3A contained a synergistic combination of components that act together to limit mineral capture in hair fibers and / or remove minerals from hair fibers (carboxylic acids (citric acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine) and amino acids (arginine)), while Composition C1 did not include any osmolytes.
[0193] In order to evaluate the ability of hair treatment compositions to limit mineral capture in hair fibers, the following study was conducted. Three strands of virgin Caucasian hair were shampooed with a commercially available shampoo, rinsed, and dried. The strands were then bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleach powder:oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of about 55°C for about 45 minutes. The strands were again shampooed, rinsed, and dried. The previous steps of the process used tap water.
[0194] Finally, two of the strands were treated by applying equal amounts of composition 3A or composition Cl to one of the strands, leaving the
[0195]
[0196]
[0197]
[0198]
[0199]
[0200]
[0201]
[0202] compositions on the hair for a five-minute resting time, then rinsing it with deionized water. This process was repeated four more times for a total of five treatments per strand. One strand was not treated with any composition and served as a control. The wicks were then analyzed for calcium concentration by X-ray fluorescence, and the results are shown in Table 4B. [Table 6] TABLE 4B Control 3A Cl Ca concentration (ppm) 2746 1712 1819 The data in Table 4B show that the combination of carboxylic acids, osmolytes, and amino acids reduces the uptake of minerals such as calcium from tap water into the hair and / or removes calcium from the hair fiber. These results were astonishing. Although the comparative composition ensured a reduction in mineral capture in the hair, it was not known that the addition of osmolytes would improve the results as shown. Example 6#- Additional compositions Compositions 4A-4D according to the disclosure were prepared as shown in Table 5. [Table 7] [Tables 5] 4A 4B 4C 4D Basic amino acid(s) 5.50 5.50 3.80 3.80 Thickening agent(s) 0.30 0.90 0.90 Non-ionic surfactant(s) 0.30 1.50 0.50 0.50 Amphoteric surfactant(s) 0.30 Conditioning agent(s) 0.80 Cationic surfactant(s) 2.10 3.84 3.00 3.00 Glycine betaine 2.50 2.50 1.80 1.80 Citric acid 6.00 6.00 5.50 5.50 Wax(s) 0.50 0.50 Fatty alcohol(s) 6.30 6.30 Vegetable oil(s) 0.50 Fatty acid ester(s) 2.50 1.50 Additives (preservatives, perfume) <2 <2 <2 <2 Solvents (water and non-aqueous solvents) QS QS QS QS
[0203] Compositions 4A-4D, which contained a synergistic combination of components (carboxylic acids (citric acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine) and amino acids (arginine)), were expected to minimize, prevent and / or repair damage to the hair, and limit the capture of minerals in the hair fibers and / or remove minerals from the hair fibers. Example#?#- Additional compositions
[0204] The following compositions according to the disclosure may be prepared, and are expected to similarly limit the capture of minerals in hair fibers, and / or remove minerals from hair fibers, and minimize, prevent and / or repair damage to the hair.
[0205] [Table 8]
[0206] [Tableauxô] 5A 5B 5C 5D 5E Arginine 2.0 9.8 2.5 Lysine 2.5 2.0 10 Valine betaine 2.0 4.5 2.0 1.0 4.0 Citric acid 3 2.0 9.8 Lactic acid 2.0 10 2 Serine 0.05 0.5 0.05 0.5 Fatty compound(s) 10 8.0 9.0 15 Cationic and / or amphoteric surfactant(s) 3.0 0.5 2.5 5.0 Additional component(s) (e.g. pH adjusters, vitamins, preservatives, extracts, thickeners) <5 <5 <5 <5 <5 Solvent(s) (water and / or non-aqueous solvents) QS QS QS QS QS
[0207] The above examples demonstrate that the compositions and methods of the disclosure surprisingly minimize, prevent, and / or repair damage to hair, and limit the capture of minerals in hair fibers and / or remove minerals from hair fibers.
Claims
Claims
1. A method for limiting the capture of minerals in hair fibers and / or for removing minerals from hair fibers in the hair, comprising: i. applying a hair treatment composition to the hair, comprising: a. at least one compound selected from amino acids or their salts; b. at least one osmolyte; c. at least one compound selected from carboxylic acids or their salts; and d. at least one solvent, and i. optionally rinsing the hair.
2. The method of claim 1, wherein the hair treatment composition comprises b) at least one compound selected from valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyl lysine, glycine betaine, histidine betaine, N-methyl histidine betaine, alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine, their salts, or combinations of two or more of them, preferably comprising glycine betaine.
3. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the hair treatment composition comprises c) at least one compound selected from formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of them.
4. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the total amount of amino acids and their salts in the hair treatment composition ranges from about 2% to about 15%, preferably from about 2.5% to about 12%, more preferably from about 3% to about 10%, and more preferably from about 3.5% to about 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the total amount of osmolytes in the hair treatment composition is from about 0.5% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 8%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, and most preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
6. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts in the hair treatment composition is from about 3% to about 15%, preferably from about 3% to about 12%, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
7. A method according to one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the pH of the hair treatment composition ranges from about 2.5 to about 5, preferably from about 2.5 to about 4.5, more preferably from about 3 to about 4.
8. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the hair treatment composition comprises: a. at least one compound selected from basic amino acids or their salts; b. glycine betaine or a salt thereof; c. at least one compound selected from carboxylic acids having from 3 to 14 carbon atoms or their salts; and d. water and, optionally, at least one polyol.
9. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the hair treatment composition is rinsed from the hair after a leave-on period of from about 1 minute to about 24 hours.
10. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the hair to which the hair treatment composition is applied has increased shine compared to untreated hair.