COSMETIC SKINCARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION CONTAINING CROSS-CUT POLYGLUTAMIC ACID

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: - at least one aqueous phase gelled by cross-linked polyglutamic acid or one of its salts, and - at least one oily phase gelled by at least one non-siliconized elastomer.

Description

Title of the invention: COSMETIC SKINCARE AND / OR MAKEUP COMPOSITION COMPRISING CROSS-CROSS-CUT POLYGLUTAMIC ACID FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and in particular to compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, having sensory qualities upon application, and preferably composed of ingredients of natural origin. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Today, consumers are looking for more natural cosmetic products, composed of ingredients of natural origin. However, some synthetic ingredients are difficult to replace. This is particularly true of silicone elastomers.

[0003] Upon their introduction to the cosmetic raw materials market, silicone elastomers enjoyed considerable success, primarily due to their sensory benefits. These polymers can indeed give cosmetic formulations a particularly pleasant feel, characterized as soft, silky, or powdery. Elastomers also provide a mattifying effect to the skin; these optical properties are referred to as "soft focus," which explains their use in many makeup and skincare products. Silicone elastomers also have the advantage of easily increasing the viscosity of certain anhydrous formulas or water-in-oil emulsions, while simultaneously improving their sensory profile, a phenomenon known as a "cushioning effect."

[0004] However, silicone elastomers are ingredients that are not of natural origin, and which are also not biodegradable.

[0005] We are currently looking for compositions comprising more ingredients of natural origin, and in particular not comprising silicone elastomer, but without compromising on the sensory properties of said cosmetic compositions.

[0006] By “naturally sourced ingredients” we mean ingredients derived from nature but which have been physically transformed or have been extracted or chemically treated.

[0007] To the best of the Applicant's knowledge, it is not currently possible to substitute these silicone elastomers with a single ingredient; some use super-absorbent polymers in aqueous phase for their sensory properties (freshness, cushioning effect, glide) but these are of synthetic origin and These products are controversial because they are considered plastic beads and therefore non-biodegradable. Examples include products with INCI names such as sodium polyacrylate, sodium acrylates crosspolymer-2, or sodium polyacrylate starch, like Kobo's Makimousse-12.

[0008] We are therefore looking for new alternatives to more natural aqueous gelling agents, which are compatible with cross-linked polyurethane elastomers, such as those described in application WO202141046 of Grant Industries Inc and marketed under the name Gransense™.

[0009] However, the Applicant has demonstrated that the use of a cross-linked poly-gamma-glutamate (abbreviated gamma-PGA or PGA), known for its water retention and skin hydration properties (EP 1 563 831), made it possible to obtain, in association with a cross-linked polyurethane elastomer (non-silicone elastomer), a stable and homogeneous composition with sensory properties of freshness, glide on application and cushioning effect, compared to other aqueous gelling agents (such as cross-linked hyaluronic acid, for example).

[0010] The association according to the invention therefore constitutes an alternative to silicone elastomers for formulations comprising an aqueous phase, which are sought for their cooling effect upon application. Description of the invention

[0011] The Applicant has thus shown that a cosmetic skincare and / or makeup composition comprising a combination of a crosslinked gamma-PGA hydrogel or one of its salts, with an oily phase gelled by at least one non-silicone elastomer, has freshness properties combined with a "gummy / cushion" type sensory effect when the said composition is applied, and this without using any silicone elastomer.

[0012] To this end, according to a first aspect of the invention, a cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials is proposed, comprising: - at least one aqueous phase gelled by cross-linked polyglutamic acid or one of its salts, and - at least one oily phase gelled by at least one non-silicone elastomer.

[0013] According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition further contains at least one amphiphilic compound.

[0014] The present invention also relates to a method for preparing a cosmetic composition as described above, comprising at least one mixing step: - of at least one aqueous phase gelled by cross-linked polyglutamic acid or one of its salts, and - of at least one oily phase gelled by at least one non-siliconized elastomer.

[0015] Finally, another object of the invention is a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the lips or of the skin of the face, comprising the application on said keratinous materials of a cosmetic composition as described above.

[0016] By "cosmetic composition" we mean any composition with a cosmetic purpose, that is to say aesthetic, which may be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body and more particularly with keratinous materials, in particular human skin and / or lips.

[0017] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratinous materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response.

[0018] The term "keratinous materials" according to the invention refers to skin and / or its appendages, and more particularly to human skin and / or lips. Specifically, this includes skin of the face and / or neck and / or body, and lips. The keratinous materials within the scope of the invention are healthy, that is, they do not exhibit any disorders or abnormalities indicative of a pathological condition (i.e., "unhealthy" subjects, those suffering from a pathology). The terms "healthy skin and / or lips" and "skin and / or lips" will be used interchangeably throughout the rest of this description. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0019] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be used as a makeup and / or skincare composition.

[0020] This cosmetic composition advantageously presents properties of freshness, application comfort (in particular "rolling on the skin") and optical blurring properties, while being free of silicone elastomer.

[0021] This composition may be an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion formulation or a reverse water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion formulation.

[0022] This composition may also be a gel / gel formulation, consisting of two gelled phases, one aqueous and the other oily. Such gel / gel formulations are known to those skilled in the art, in particular in patent application FR 3 002 449.

[0023] According to this embodiment of the invention, the composition is characterized in that the two aqueous and oily phases form a macroscopically homogeneous mixture, i.e. a gel / gel type formulation.

[0024] By 'macroscopically homogeneous mixture', we mean a mixture in which each of the gelled phases cannot be distinguished by the naked eye; in other words, the two gelled phases form interpenetrating macro-domains leading to a for Stable, homogeneous and consistent mixture. This is referred to as a 'gel / gel' formulation, as both phases have a gel-like texture.

[0025] According to a particular embodiment, the skincare and / or makeup composition according to the invention may be in a fluid galenic form or in gel form. GELIFIED AQUEOUS PHASE

[0026] The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase gelled by cross-linked polyglutamic acid or one of its salts. Polyglutamic acid or one of its salts

[0027] Polyglutamic acid, also known as poly-gamma-glutamate or "Natto gum", and abbreviated as gamma-PGA, is a naturally occurring polymer produced by microorganisms, particularly of the genus Bacillus such as B. liche-niformis and B. subtilis, and in particular by the variety known as B. natto.

[0028] This is a glutamic acid polymer in which the peptide bonds are located between the amine group of one residue and the carboxyl group of another residue. It can consist of L-glutamic acid, D-glutamic acid, or a racemic mixture of the two enantiomers.

[0029] This polymer can be crosslinked by any means known to those skilled in the art. In particular, the crosslinking of gamma-PGA can be achieved by irradiation with gamma rays or electron beams, or by the action of chemical crosslinking agents.

[0030] Preferably, gamma-PGA is crosslinked by irradiation with electron beams.

[0031] After crosslinking, gamma-PGA becomes a hydrophilic gelling agent with high water absorption capacity, capable of forming a “hydrogel” (aqueous gel) in low percentage mixtures.

[0032] This crosslinked polymer can be used in the form of a salt, in particular a sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium salt or any combination of these salts.

[0033] According to a preferred embodiment, the aqueous phase of the cosmetic composition is gelled by a cross-linked gamma-PGA sodium salt.

[0034] Such a crosslinked gamma-PGA salt in the form of an aqueous gel (hydrogel) is supplied by the company TOA KASEI, in two formats: one comprising 2% of active material under the name TOA SPR-2, and the other comprising 12% of active material under the name TOA SPR-12.

[0035] According to one embodiment of the invention, the percentage of crosslinked gamma-PGA or one of its salts in the composition is between 0.1 and 15% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0036] The aqueous phase of the composition comprises an aqueous solution of gamma-PGA.

[0037] According to one embodiment of the invention, the percentage of crosslinked gamma-PGA or one of its salts in the aqueous phase is between 0.2 and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

[0038] The aqueous phase of the composition comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

[0039] The term 'water-soluble solvent' according to the invention means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure). Examples include:

[0040] - lower C1-C5 monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and their mixtures, preferably ethanol;

[0041] - C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, preferably C3-C5 glycols;

[0042] - C2-C32 polyols such as glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylenes glycols, and their mixtures,

[0043] and mixtures thereof.

[0044] It may also include additional hydrophilic gelling agents (distinct from gamma-PGA), antioxidants, preservatives and mixtures thereof.

[0045] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises, in the aqueous phase, at least one polyol, preferably chosen from glycerol or a diol or one of their combinations, and more preferably contains a combination of glycerol, butylene glycol and hexanediol.

[0046] The presence of at least one polyol in the aqueous phase of the composition makes it possible to provide hydrating properties to the cosmetic composition.

[0047] Generally, the aqueous and oily phases forming the composition according to the invention will typically be present in a weight ratio ranging from 95 / 5 to 5 / 95, in particular from 30 / 70 to 80 / 20. Those skilled in the art will be able to adjust the ratio between the two phases according to the desired optical and sensory properties. Preferably, for a fresh and blurring composition, it may be advantageous to use an aqueous / oily phase weight ratio ranging from 60 / 40 to 80 / 20.

[0048] The viscosity of the phases can be measured according to the technologies well known to the person of art.

[0049] In particular, viscosity measurements are performed using a rheometer connected to the Rhéolab QC software, on formulation samples, at 25°C. The oscillator used for all measurements is the finned oscillator. The measurement time is 3 minutes at a rotation speed of 100 rpm.

[0050] In the case of a gel / gel type formulation, it is advantageous that the viscosity of the two aqueous and oily phases be close. GELIFIED OILY PHASE

[0051] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one oily phase gelled by at least one non-siliconized elastomer. Gelling agent for the oil phase

[0052] The oily phase of the composition according to the invention is gelled by the presence of at least one non-siliconized elastomer.

[0053] By 'elastomer', we mean a cross-linked polymer having elastic properties.

[0054] A first example of a non-siliconized elastomer is a crosslinked polyester derived from castor oil.

[0055] Another example of a non-siliconized elastomer is a cross-linked polyurethane elastomer.

[0056] The cross-linked polyurethane elastomer is particularly in gel form, wherein the cross-linked polyurethane elastomer is dispersed in at least one solvent. The non-siliconized elastomer gel may comprise one or more cross-linked polyurethane elastomers.

[0057] Preferably the polyurethane elastomer(s) is / is micronized (particle size from 1 to 100 microns, preferably 1 to 60 microns in diameter).

[0058] Thus, the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer gel used in the invention may consist of a single crosslinked polyurethane elastomer (copolymer) or a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers (copolymers), the elastomer (copolymer) or the mixture of elastomers (copolymers) being obtained by reacting a (poly)isocyanate with a prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups and a cosmetic solvent under conditions for forming the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer. In particular, a urethanation reaction catalyst, such as a bismuth- or zinc-based catalyst, is used.

[0059] The cross-linked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer of the invention is advantageously bio-based, that is to say, obtained from raw materials of natural origin (85%, preferably 90%, or even 95% bio-based). Thus, according to a preferred method, the prepolymer, the (poly)isocyanate, and the cosmetic solvent are of natural origin (for example, plant-based) at more than 85%, or even more than 95%.

[0060] The crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer of the invention may consist of a single crosslinked polyurethane elastomer (copolymer) or a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers (copolymers), the copolymer or mixture of copolymers being obtained from a prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups and a (poly)isocyanate and at least one solvent, in particular from a dimer or trimer of carboxylic acid, preferably in C16-C20, a polyol and a diisocyanate.

[0061] According to a particular mode, the polyol is selected from the group consisting of an aliphatic diol comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as 1,2 ethanediol, pro-panediols such as 1,2 propanediol, 1,3 propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, preferably propanediols and butanediol; a fatty acid triglyceride comprising at least two -OH groups, such as ricinoleic acid triglyceride or a vegetable source containing it, such as castor oil.

[0062] According to a particular mode, the pre-polymer is a copolymer of dilinoleic acid and propanediol (DAPD) or a copolymer of dilinoleic acid and butanediol (DABP).

[0063] According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)isocyanate is a diisocyanate, in particular an aliphatic diisocyanate containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably selected from 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI), 1,5-pentamethylene diisocyanate (PDI), or isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI). A preferred (poly)isocyanate is pentamethylene 1,5-diisocyanate trimer.

[0064] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention: - the prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups is a copolymer of a carboxylic acid dimer or trimer and a polyol, in particular a C12-C18 fatty acid dimer, preferably dilinoleic acid, and a polyol selected from the group consisting of an aliphatic diol comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as 1,2-ethanediol, propanediols such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, preferably propanediols and butanediol; a fatty acid triglyceride comprising at least two -OH groups, such as ricinoleic acid triglyceride or a vegetable source containing it, such as castor oil, and in that - (Poly)isocyanate is a diisocyanate, in particular an aliphatic diisocyanate which may contain 5 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI), 1,5-pentamethylene diisocyanate (PDI) or isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI).

[0065] Cosmetic solvents used in the synthesis of crosslinked polyurethane elastomer and / or the formation of crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel may include esters, ethers, alkanes, and mixtures thereof. In a particular manner, the following may be used: triglycerides of vegetable origin such as glyceryl trihexanoate, glyceryl triheptanoate (triheptanoin), glyceryl trioctanoate, coco-caprylate / caprate, C9-C22 alkanes such as undecane, tridecane; esters of natural origin and mixtures thereof, preferably glyceryl triheptanoate (triheptanoin), coco-caprylate / caprate, C9-C22 alkanes, esters of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.

[0066] Thus, according to a particular mode, the polyurethane elastomer gel or copolymer of the invention comprises at least one solvent selected from the group consisting of triglycerides of vegetable origin such as glycerol trihexanoate, glycerol triheptanoate (triheptanoin), glycerol trioctanoate, coco-caprylate / caprate, C9-C22 alkanes such as undecane, tridecane; esters of natural origin and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerol triheptanoate (triheptanoin), coco-caprylate / caprate, C9-C22 alkanes, esters of natural origin and mixtures thereof.

[0067] According to a particular mode, the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel used in the compositions according to the invention may comprise from 5 to 30% by weight, in particular from 5 to 17% by weight of crosslinked polyurethane elastomer(s) active material, and from 70 to 95% by weight, in particular from 83 to 95% by weight of solvent(s).

[0068] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises a crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel comprising at least one solvent and a single crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers, said elastomer or said mixture of elastomers being obtained from a prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups and a (poly)isocyanate.

[0069] The elastomer gel may comprise at least one solvent and a crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or a mixture of crosslinked polyurethane elastomers.

[0070] According to a particular embodiment, the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel used according to the invention is the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel prepared in Example 6 or Example 9 of Grant Industries Inc.'s international application WO202141046. The prepolymer is a copolymer of C8 dimeric acid and 1,3-propanediol (DAPD) or 1,4-butanediol (DABD), the polyisocyanate is a trimer of pentylene dii-isocyanate (PDT), the catalyst is bismuth neodecanoate, and the solvent is a mixture of coco-caprylate / caprate and glycerol triheptanoate. The concentrated gel is then formed by micronizing said crosslinked polyurethane elastomer and adding glycerol triheptanoate. The concentrated gel is then diluted with the addition of C9-C12 alkanes (Vegelight 1214).

[0071] Such cross-linked polyurethane elastomer gels are marketed under the name Gransense™ by Grant Industries.

[0072] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer or one of the copolymers of the mixture is obtained from dilinoleic acid, propanediol or butanediol and pentamethylene diisocyanate.

[0073] This crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer of the invention can be described as a non-siliconized elastomer of polyester nature and have the INCI name: polyurethane-10 Elastomer or polyurethane-100 Elastomer.

[0074] The following commercial references of the company Grant can be cited in particular Industries Inc.:

[0075] - GRANSENSE TC-1IX, INCI name Coco-Caprylate / Caprate (and) Triheptanoin (and) Polyurethane-10 Elastomer; and

[0076] - GRANSENSE TC-8X, INCI name Coco-Caprylate / Caprate (and) Triheptanoin (and) C9-12 Alkane (and) Polyurethane-100 Elastomer.

[0077] According to another particular embodiment, the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel or copolymer of the invention comprises a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers, said mixture being obtained from dilinoleic acid / polyols and isophorone diisocyanate prepolymers, the two polyols being butanediol and castor oil.

[0078] Thus, according to another particular and preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a mixture of at least two cross-linked polyurethane elastomers or copolymers of the invention, said mixture being obtained from dilinoleic acid / two polyol prepolymers and isophorone diisocyanate, the two polyols being butanediol and castor oil. For example, the mixture contains a first copolymer obtained from dilinoleic acid and butanediol, and a second copolymer obtained from isophorone diisocyanate and castor oil. The mixture of these two elastomers or copolymers may have the following INCI names:

[0079] - Triheptanoin (and) Coco-Caprylate / Caprate (and) Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer Elastomer, or

[0080] - Coco-Caprylate / Caprate (and) Triheptanoin (and) C9-12 Alkane (and) Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer Elastomer.

[0081] In particular, the chemical compounds Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer and Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer, as contained in products marketed under the name GRANSENSE™, may be used.

[0082] The following commercial references of Grant Industries Inc. can be cited in particular:

[0083] - GRANSENSE TC-18X-C INCI name: Coco-Caprylate / Caprate (and) Tri heptanoin (and) C9-12 Alkane (and) Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer

[0084] - GRANSENSE TC-21X-C INCI name: Triheptanoin (and) Coco- Caprylate / Caprate (and) Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer

[0085] - GRANSENSE TC-21X-SBC with INCI name: Triheptanoin (and) Coco- caprylate / caprate (and) Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer (and) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter).

[0086] The cross-linked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer of the invention (alone or a mixture of two elastomers or copolymers) will generally be present in the position in a total raw material content ranging from 5% to 60% by weight, in particular from 10% to 50% and especially from 15% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] The crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer of the invention (alone or a mixture of two copolymers) will generally be present in the composition in a total dry (active) matter content ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, in particular from 1% to 3% and especially from 2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0088] The oily phase may further include a "fat phase structuring agent" chosen in particular from waxes, additional gelling agents distinct from those mentioned above, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof.

[0089] In particular, other oily gelling agents may be present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention, in combination with the crosslinked polyester and / or the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer, in particular oily gelling agents of natural origin.

[0090] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the oily phase further comprises hydroxystearic acid.

[0091] Such an oily gelling agent is commercially available, notably under the name CASID® HSA, this product being distributed by the company Vertellus.

[0092] According to a particular mode, the composition according to the invention may comprise an oily phase gelled by at least one cross-linked polyurethane elastomer, said oily phase representing from 15 to 40% by weight, in particular from 20 to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 25 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] The oily phase of the composition may include additional oils, distinct from the oils used in the synthesis of the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer described above.

[0094] Preferably, additional hydrocarbon oils will be used.

[0095] In particular, hydrocarbon oils can be selected from saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched liquid fatty alcohols, in C10-C26, ester oils, vegetable oils, triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] Examples of vegetable oils include: sunflower oil, jojoba oil, castor oil and mixtures thereof.

[0097] Among the ester oils, the following may be mentioned in particular:

[0098] - C8-C18 fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters, in particular coco-caprylate caprate, which is an ester of naturally occurring fatty alcohols (e.g., coconut), caprylic acid, and capric acid.

[0099] - fatty acid esters, in particular of 4 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0100] - synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which Ri re presents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that Ri+R2 is >16, such as isononyl isononanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl-2-dodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, the 2-Octyldodecyl myristate, 2-Diethylhexyl succinate;

[0101] - linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number from 35 to 70;

[0102] - hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total number of carbons from 35 to 70, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaisostearate, polyglyceryl 10 nonaisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

[0103] - esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms;

[0104] - C24-C28 branched fatty alcohol or fatty acid esters;

[0105] - oligomeric polyester dimers obtained by reaction between a fatty alcohol and a dimeric fatty acid; one can cite in particular the dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (ex: Lusplan™);

[0106] - esters of amino acid derivatives; one can cite in particular Di(phytosteryl) octyldodecyl)N-Lauroyl-L-glutamate (e.g. Eldew®);

[0107] - polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of car- acid(s) boxyl(s) hydroxylated by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, possibly unsaturated;

[0108] - and their mixtures. Amphibious compound

[0109] According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises at least one amphiphilic compound.

[0110] Such an amphiphilic compound possesses both a hydrophilic and a hydrophobic group. Such compounds promote the homogeneous mixing of the two aqueous and oily phases present in the compositions according to the invention.

[0111] Preferably, this amphiphilic compound is chosen from: - a polyglycerol ester of C6-C30 fatty acids, particularly C10-C20 and preferably C12-C20, - a fatty alcohol in the C16-C22 range, - a non-ionic surfactant, and - their mixtures.

[0112] Any combination of these amphiphilic compounds may be present in the composition according to the invention.

[0113] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises, as an amphiphilic compound, a polyglycerol and fatty acid ester in C6-C30, in particular in C10-C20 and preferably in C12-C20.

[0114] Fatty acids may be selected in particular from citric acid (C6), capric acid (C10), lauric acid (C12), myristic acid (C14), palmitic acid (C16), stearic or isostearic acid (C18), ricinoleic acid (C18), oleic acid (C18), linoleic acid (C18), and mixtures thereof.

[0115] Comme esters de polyglycérol et d’acide gras utilisés selon l’invention, on peut citer notamment les composés suivants : Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprate, Poly-glyceryl-3 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-4 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-10 Decalinoleate, Poly-glyceryl-10 Decaoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Decacasterate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicaprate, Po-lyglyceryl-3 Dicocoate, Polyglyceryl-10 Didecanoate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Dilaurate, Polyglycerin-2 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Poly-glyceryl-10 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dipalmitate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate, Poly-glyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Heptaoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Heptastearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Hexaoleate,Polyglyceryl-10 Hexaoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isopalmitate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-5 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Poly-glyceryl-3 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Poly-glyceryl-8 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Palmitate, Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentalaurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentalinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Pentaoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Pentaricinoleate, Poly-glyceryl-6 Pentaricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate, Poly-glyceryl-3 Polyrisinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate,Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquiisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquioleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Ses-quistearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Stéarate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stéarate, Polyglyceryl-4 Stéarate, Polyglyceryl-8 Stéarate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stéarate, Polyglyceryl-2 Tetraisostearate, Po-lyglyceryl-6 Tetraoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Tetraoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Tetrastearate, , Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Trioleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Tristearate, Polyglyceryl Tristearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Tristearate, et leurs mélanges.

[0116] Selon une mise en œuvre préférée, le composé amphiphile est choisi parmi le poly-glyceryl-3 laurate, le polyglyceryl-6 laurate, le polyglyceryl-10 laurate, le polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, le polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, et leurs mélanges.

[0117] For example, the polyglyceryl-3 laurate compound is commercially available, in particular under the following trade name: HYDRAMOL TGL ESTER MB.

[0118] The compound polyglyceryl-6 laurate is notably contained in the product bearing the trade name FLUIDIFEEL EASY.

[0119] The polyglyceryl-10 Laurate compound is notably contained in the product with the trade name S-FACE 10G-L.

[0120] The compound polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate is notably contained in the product with the trade name S-FACE IS-1001P.

[0121] The compound polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate is notably contained in the product with the trade name BENTONE® LUXE WN.

[0122] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises, as an amphiphilic compound, a C16-C22 fatty alcohol.

[0123] The term "C16-C22 fatty alcohol" refers to alcohols comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, and more particularly monoalcohols. Examples of C16-C22 fatty alcohols that can be used according to the invention include linear or branched C16-C22 fatty alcohols, whether synthetic or natural. Specific examples of preferred fatty alcohols include stearyl (C18), isostearyl (C18), oleic (C18), 2-hexyldecyl (C16), isocetyl (C16), octyldodecanol (C20), and mixtures thereof.

[0124] According to a preferred embodiment, the amphiphilic compound is chosen from stearyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol.

[0125] For example, isostearyl alcohol (INCI name: ISOSTEARYL ALCOHOL) is notably contained in the product with the trade name EMULFREE CGB MB.

[0126] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises, as an amphiphilic compound, a non-ionic surfactant.

[0127] Among non-ionic surfactants, alkyl glucosides and sorbitan esters may be mentioned in particular.

[0128] An alkyl glucoside is preferably chosen from lauryl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, and their combination.

[0129] A combination of lauryl glucoside and myristyl glucoside is notably contained in the product with the trade name FLUIDIFEEL EASY.

[0130] Among sorbitan esters, there are hydrophilic and lipophilic sorbitan esters.

[0131] Advantageously, in the composition according to the invention, a lipophilic sorbitan ester, of HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) less than or equal to 6, will be used.

[0132] Among the lipophilic sorbitan esters, examples include sorbitan monostearate (HLB = 4.7), sorbitan monoisostearate (HLB = 5), sorbitan sesquiisostearate (HLB = 4.5), and sorbitan sesquioleate (HLB = 3.7).

[0133] According to a particular embodiment, the amphiphilic compound present in the composition is sorbitan sesquiisostearate.

[0134] For example, such a compound is contained in the product with the trade name SALACOS 182 V.

[0135] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the amphiphilic compound is chosen from polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, lauryl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, sorbitan sesquiisostearate and mixtures thereof.

[0136] In certain special cases, and in particular when the composition according to the invention is in the form of a reverse water-in-oil emulsion, it is advantageous for the cosmetic composition to comprise a combination of at least two amphiphilic compounds.

[0137] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the amphiphilic compound is a combination of polyglyceryl-6 laurate, lauryl glucoside and myristyl glucoside.

[0138] Such a combination is commercially available, for example in the commercial product called FLUIDIFEEL EASY (INCI name: Lauryl Glucoside (and) Myristyl Glucoside (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate).

[0139] According to another embodiment of the invention, the amphiphilic compound is a combination of polyglyceryl-3 laurate and stearyl alcohol.

[0140] Such a combination is commercially available, for example it is contained in the commercial product EMULFREE CGB MB.

[0141] Other combinations of amphiphilic compounds may be used, in particular by combining several commercial products.

[0142] For example, a combination of sorbitan sesquiisostearate (as contained in the product SALACOS 182 V) and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (as contained in the product BENTONE® LUXE WN) will be advantageously used.

[0143] The total content of amphiphilic compound(s) in the composition of the invention shall be, in particular, from 1 to 12% by weight, in particular from 3 to 9% by weight total composition. Other additional compounds

[0144] The composition according to the invention may advantageously further contain additional compounds selected in particular from dispersants, emulsifiers, film-forming agents, fillers, colouring materials, in particular pigments, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, cosmetic actives, and mixtures thereof.

[0145] According to a particular method, the additional compounds will be chosen from fillers, coloring materials, and mixtures thereof.

[0146] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises fillers.

[0147] The presence of one or more fillers makes it possible to provide a matte finish and a blurring and filling effect to the skincare and / or makeup compositions of the invention. The optical properties of a cosmetic composition are often obtained through the presence of at least one filler. By blurring or "soft-focus" effect, it is understood that the fillers used according to the invention are capable of reducing the visibility of skin imperfections through an immediate optical effect.

[0148] The term “fillers” means particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the composition medium. These fillers are used, in particular, to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to impart a mattifying effect. The fillers may be mineral or organic and of any shape: platelet, spherical, or oblong.

[0149] The fillers according to the invention are selected in particular from: cellulose powders, lauroyl lysine, lauroyl lysine fermented by saccharomyces, boron nitride powders, silica powders, silica powders treated with lauroyl lysine, starch powders, calcium carbonate, and mixtures thereof.

[0150] According to a preferred embodiment, the fillers present in the composition of the invention are lipophilic fillers.

[0151] According to a particular mode, the fillers used in the composition according to the invention are in particular chosen from silica (in particular silica powders), such as that marketed under the name Sunsphere H33 and lauroyl lysine fermented by saccharomyces of INCI name Saccharomyces ferment lauroyl lysine, such as that marketed under the name Granpowder BBP-700 by Grant Industries.

[0152] The fillers may or may not be treated to facilitate their dispersion in the aqueous or oily phase of the composition, preferably in the oily filler.

[0153] The total content of fillers according to the invention shall in particular range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0154] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises at least a coloring agent, and in particular at least one pigment.

[0155] For the purposes of this invention, a coloring agent is defined as a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium. A coloring agent may be selected from organic or inorganic coloring agents, optical effect materials, and mixtures thereof, soluble or insoluble in the oil phase of the invention.

[0156] By “pigment” we mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit.

[0157] According to a particular method, the pigment(s) are notably chosen from mineral and / or organic pigments, composite pigments (based on mineral and / or organic materials), mother-of-pearl or pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0158] Among the "mineral pigments", examples may be given to titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), possibly surface treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue.

[0159] Among the "organic pigments", examples include D & C red No. 19; D & C red No. 9; D & C Red No. 22; D & C Red No. 21; D & C Red No. 28; D & C Yellow No. 6; D & C orange No. 4; D & C orange No. 5; D & C Red No. 27; D & C red No. 13; D & C Red No. 7; D & C Red No. 6; D & C Yellow No. 5; D & C Red No. 36; D & C Red No. 33; D & C orange No. 10; D & C yellow No. 6; D & C Red No. 30; D & C red No. 3; D & C Blue 1; carbon black and carmine-based lakes.

[0160] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least iron oxides.

[0161] The pigments and fillers may or may not be surface-treated to facilitate their solubilization in the aqueous or oily phase of the emulsion. In particular, the pigments are dispersed in the oily phase of the invention.

[0162] Advantageously, the pigments are surface-treated with at least one hydrophobic or lipophilic treatment agent for improved dispersion in the oil phase. The hydrophobic treatment agent is notably selected from the group consisting of metallic soaps, N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; diisostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, and mixtures thereof, in particular N-acylated amino acids or their salts.

[0163] In particular, pigments, when present in the composition, are present in a total content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 3% to 8% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0164] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition of the invention is characterized in that it comprises less than 5% silicone compound by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 1% silicone compound by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or is even devoid of silicone compound. Preparation process

[0165] The present invention also relates to a method for preparing a cosmetic composition as described above, comprising at least one mixing step: - of at least one aqueous phase gelled by cross-linked polyglutamic acid or one of its salts, and - of at least one oily phase gelled by at least one non-siliconized elastomer.

[0166] Depending on the desired formulation for the composition according to the invention, a person skilled in the art will adapt this process according to their general knowledge to obtain an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion or gel / gel type formulation.

[0167] According to a preferred embodiment, the preparation process is carried out under conditions conducive to obtaining a macroscopically homogeneous mixture.

[0168] A person skilled in the art will know how to adjust the ratio between the two gelled phases according to the desired optical and sensory properties. Preferably for a fresh and blurring composition, it may be advantageous to use a weight ratio of aqueous phase to oily phase ranging from 60 / 40 to 80 / 20. cosmetic process

[0169] The present invention also relates to a method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the lips or of the skin of the face, comprising the application on said keratinous materials of a cosmetic composition as described above.

[0170] The combination of at least one aqueous phase gelled by cross-linked polyglutamic acid or one of its salts, and at least one oily phase gelled by at least one non-silicone elastomer, as described above, makes it possible to obtain a skincare and / or makeup composition for keratinous materials which has characteristics similar to those obtained with silicone elastomers, while not containing said silicone elastomers: in particular, during its application, a cooling and rolling effect on the skin, with a "cushion effect" type application comfort.

[0171] The invention will be illustrated by the following non-limiting examples. Percentages (%) are expressed as a percentage by weight of raw material relative to to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise stated. EXAMPLES

[0172] Example 1. Comparison of formulations comprising a gelled aqueous phase with crosslinked hydrophilic polymers: crosslinked poly-gamma-glutamate sodium, or a crosslinked sodium hyaluronate polymer

[0173] Several aqueous gels were produced with different hydrophilic polymers under the same conditions, with identical active ingredient concentrations and manufacturing processes: - with cross-linked sodium poly-gamma-glutamate (also noted as cross-linked gamma-PGA): TOA SPR 2 gel with 2% active ingredient, ready to use, and - with cross-linked hyaluronic acid (HYACROSS™ TL 200, marketed by Bloomage Biotechnologies) in powder form mixed extemporaneously by simple agitation with water to obtain an aqueous gel with 2% by weight of active material.

[0174] The oily gel is a ready-to-use GRANSENSE™ elastomer gel selected in particular from the following commercial references:

[0175] - GRANSENSE TC-18X-C INCI name: Coco-Caprylate / Caprate (and) Tri- heptanoin (and) C9-12 Alkane (and) Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer,

[0176] - GRANSENSE TC-21X-C INCI name: Triheptanoin (and) Coco- Caprylate / Caprate (and) Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer.

[0177] Each of these aqueous gels was then mixed with an oily gel comprising a non-siliconized elastomer (Gransense™) and an amphiphilic compound according to the following protocol: - the amphiphilic compound is added to the GRANSENSE™ oily gel by simple stirring; - the oily gel thus obtained is added to the aqueous gel by stirring with a Rayneri emulsifier.

[0178] The compositions studied include: - 65% of a gelled aqueous phase, or water (control) for comparison; - 30% of an oily phase gelled with the commercial product GRANSENSE TC-21X-C, and - 5% polyglyceryl-3 laurate as an amphiphilic compound.

[0179] The 3 formulations were evaluated by a panel of experts according to the following aspects: resistance to centrifugation (which allows us to evaluate the stability of the composition) and sensory experience during application (glide during application, powdery and soft finish, Boutant effect).

[0180] The following notations have been given:

[0181] For stability under centrifugation: OK: stable X: unstable, non-homogeneous, separation of the two phases (oily and aqueous) visible to the eye

[0182] For sensory perception: ++: excellent + : good - : not acceptable

[0183] The results obtained are presented in Table 1 below.

[0184] [Tables 1] Ingredients (trade name and chemical name) Composition with TOA SPR 2 hydrogel at 2% MA (invention) Composition with water without gelling agent (control) Composition with aqueous gel with 2% MA cross-linked HA (comparative) Chemical names Trade names (%) (%) (%) Water Water 65 63.7 Aqueous gel SODIUM HYA-LURONATE CROSSPOLYMER HYACROSS TL 200 1.3 Cross-linked poly-gamma glutamate hydrogel TOA SPR 2 65 Amphiphilic compound POLYGLYCERYL-3 LAURATE HYDRAMOL TGL ESTER MB 5 5 5 Oily gel Triheptanoin (and) Coco-caprylate / caprate (and) Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer GRANSENSE TC-21X-C 30 30 30 RESULTS CENTRIFUGATION STABILITY OK XX SENSORY Glide: + Finish: + Application: OK (round, cushion) X Glide: + Finish: - Application: X (stringy and sticky)

[0185] The centrifugation test result is unfavorable for the formulation containing the cross-linked AH gel; that is, the mixture of the two phases does not remain homogeneous when subjected to centrifugation. However, the test is conclusive for the composition according to the invention comprising the cross-linked gamma-PGA.

[0186] Regarding the sensory experience upon application, only the formulation containing cross-linked gamma-PGA provides a satisfactory result in terms of a powdery finish, as well as a smooth, cushion-like application. In contrast, the application of the comparative formulation containing cross-linked HA gel is stringy and sticky and provides no powdery effect (a sensation identical to the application of a very fine powder to the skin).

[0187] In conclusion, the use of crosslinked gamma-PGA as a hydrophilic gelling agent for an aqueous phase, in combination with an oily phase gelled by a non-siliconized elastomer (Gransense™), makes it possible to generate stable and visually homogeneous cosmetic compositions, exhibiting good glide on application, a powdery finish and a particularly pleasant application, compared to a composition comprising another crosslinked hydrophilic gelling agent.

[0188] Example 2. Effects of an amphiphilic compound on the stability and sensory properties of the composition

[0189] Compositions were prepared as described in Example 1, with different amphiphilic compounds, with the following composition: - 65% of an aqueous phase gelled with 2% MA crosslinked gamma-PGA salt, trade name TOA SPR 2; - 30% of an oily phase gelled with the commercial product GRANSENSE TC-21X-C, and - 5% of an amphiphilic compound.

[0190] The 3 amphiphilic compounds tested are the following compounds: - NEOSOLUE-AQUA S MB (test K) with INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-10 EICO-SANEDIOATE / TETRADECANEDIOATE (and) GLYCERIN - HYDRAMOL TGL ESTER MB (test L) with INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-3 LAURATE, and - FLORAESTERS K-20W JOJOBA (test M) INCI name: HYDROLYZED JOJOBA ESTERS and WATER. The 3 formulations were evaluated according to the following aspects: their stability after centrifugation, and the sensory experience and finish upon application to the skin (glide and shine).

[0191] The following notations were given.

[0192] For stability under centrifugation: OK: stable X: unstable, non-homogeneous, separation visible to the eye of the two phases (oily and aqueous).

[0193] For sensory perception: ++: excellent + : good - : not acceptable

[0194] The results obtained are presented in Table 2 below.

[0195] [Tables2] Ingredients (trade name and chemical name) K Assay (%) comparative L Assay (%) invention M Assay (%) comparative TOA SPR 2 Hydrogel 2% crosslinked poly-gamma glutamate hydrogel MA 65 65 65 NEOSOLUE-AQUA S MB POLYGLYCERYL-10 EICOSANEDI OATE / TETRADECANEDIOATE (and) GLYCERIN 5 HYDRAMOL TGL ESTER MB POLYGLYCERYL-3 LAURATE 5 FLORAESTERS K-20W JOJOBA HYDROLYZED JOJOBA ESTERS and WATER 5 GRANSENSE TC-21X-C Oily Gel Triheptanoin (and) Coco-caprylate / caprate (and) Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer 30 30 30 RESULTS CENTRIFUGATION X OK X SENSORIALITY Glide: - Gloss: ++ Glide: + Gloss: + Glide: - Gloss: +

[0196] These results show that the amphiphilic compound POLYGLYCERYL-3 LAURATE (test L) improves stability and sensory properties, particularly glide on application, compared to other amphiphilic compounds (tests K and M).

[0197] Example 3. Effects of lipophilic charges on the optical and sensory properties of the oily gel

[0198] The compositions studied include: - 76 or 92% of a ready-to-use, non-siliconized elastomer gelled oil phase, trade name GRANSENSE TC21XC; and - 8% or 24% of a lipophilic charge.

[0199] The lipophilic charges tested are as follows: SUNSPHERE H33 (INCI name: silica) and GRANDPOWDER BBP 700 (INCI name: Saccharomyces Ferment (and) Lauroyl Lysine).

[0200] These fillers were incorporated into the gelled oil phase comprising the GRANSENSE™ elastomer.

[0201] The two formulations were evaluated according to the following aspects: the Boutant effect, also known as the "blur effect", and the sensory experience upon application.

[0202] The given notations are as follows:

[0203] For the Boutant effect: + : good - : less good

[0204] For application: description of the effect obtained.

[0205] The results obtained are presented in Table 4 below.

[0206] [Tables3] Ingredients (trade name and INCI name) Percentage of GRANSENSE TC-21X-C Oily Gel Triheptanoin (and) Coco-caprylate / caprate (and) Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer 76% 92% SUNSPHERE H33 silica 8% GRANPOWDER BBP 700 Saccharomyces Ferment (and) Lauroyl Lysine 24% Evaluation Results: Budding effect and sensory experience upon application Budding effect: + Application: round and cushion Budding effect: + Application: round and cushion

[0207] The use of lipophilic fillers, such as silica and lauroyl lysine fermented by Saccharomyces, improves the Boutant effect and the sensory experience upon application (“cushion-like roundness”) of an oily gel containing Gransense™.

[0208] Alternatively, the inventors tested the interest of adding a hydrophilic filler to the aqueous gel phase.

[0209] Thus, aqueous gels comprising different hydrophilic fillers were prepared, including:

[0210] - 95% of a hydrogel comprising 2% MA crosslinked polyglutamic acid salt, trade name TOA SPR 2; and - 5% of a hydrophilic filler.

[0211] It has been observed that adding a hydrophilic filler to an aqueous gel does not simultaneously improve the blurring effect, provide a smooth finish, and ensure comfortable application on the skin. In particular, pilling occurs upon application and / or the blurring effect is insufficient.

[0212] Thus it is particularly advantageous to use lipophilic fillers that blur in the gelled oil phase, rather than hydrophilic fillers in the gelled aqueous phase. Example 4. Formulations

[0213] Several skincare and / or makeup compositions according to the invention have been prepared and are presented in Tables 5, 6 and 7 below. 4.1 Liquid Lip Formula

[0214] [Tables4] PHASE Chemical Name and Trade Name % by weight A 2% Crosslinked Poly-Gamma Glutamate Hydrogel MA TOA-SPR 2 Qsp 100 GLYCERIN 5 PURIFIED WATER COSM 3 B POLYGLYCERYL-3 LAURATE HYDRAMOL TGL ESTER MB 5 C TRIHEPTANOIN, COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE, DILINOLEIC ACID / BUTANEDIOL COPOLYMER, CASTOR OIL / IPDI COPOLYMER GRANSENSE TC-21X-C 29.7 SILICA SOLESPHERE H-33 2 HYDROXYSTEARIC ACID CASID HSA 0.3 D Dispersion of PIGMENTS in a mixture of oils POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIL SOSTEARATE TRIMETHYLOLPROPANE and TRIISOSTEARATE qs E AQUA, POLYURETHANE-35 BAYCUSAN C 1004 / 1 2 F ETHANOL 3

[0215] The formulation was prepared according to the following procedure: - Phase A is agitated in a deflocculator at 500 rpm. - Phase B is added to phase A and the mixture is blended for 5 minutes. - CASID HSA is melted into GRANSENSE™ in a water bath at 90°C, then the mixture is cooled while stirring, - the SOLESPHERE charge is dispersed in the GRANSENSE™ + CASID mixture to obtain phase C, - Phase D is added to phase C, - Mixture CD is added to AB, then rapidly agitated for 10 minutes in a deflocculator until a smooth and homogeneous texture is obtained. - Phase E is added to the mixture, which is stirred for 5 minutes, and - Phase F is added to the mixture, which is stirred for 5 minutes.

[0216] The resulting composition is stable and homogeneous in appearance.

[0217] It glides well on the lips and provides a refreshing effect upon application, a matte and transfer-proof finish. 4.2 CARE SERUM:

[0218] [Tables5] Phase Chemical Name and Trade Name % by weight A 12% Crosslinked Poly-Gamma Glutamate Hydrogel MA TOA-SPR 12 9.3 COSM PURIFIED WATER Qsp 100 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 1.1 1,2-HEXANEDIOL 1.1 Al GLYCEROL 5.0 B POLYGLYCERYL-3 LAURATE HYDRAMOL TGL ESTER MB 5.0 C Triheptanoin (and) Coco-caprylate / caprate (and) Di-linoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer GRANSENSE TC-21X-C 30.0 SILICA SOLESPHERE H-33 1.0 SACCHAROMYCES FERMENT (and) LAUROYL LYSINE GRANPOWDER BBP-700-LP 3.0

[0219] This formulation was prepared according to the following cold process under Rayneri, and comprises the following steps: - Preparation of phase A: formation of the y-PGA hydrogel Add water regularly, allowing the gel to swell, while stirring at 600-900 rpm and using a spatula, until a homogeneous and smooth gel is obtained. - Addition of phases A1 and B into phase A, - Preparation of phase C: the fillers are added to the oily gel until a white and homogeneous gel is obtained, - Phase C is introduced into mixture A and B, and kept under agitation for 15-20 minutes.

[0220] The resulting composition is stable and homogeneous in appearance.

[0221] It is comfortable to apply (round, cushion-like application, rolling on the skin) and provides a cooling effect to the skin. It also has optical properties that blur and fill in skin imperfections. 4.3 COMPLEXION PRIMER:

[0222] [Tableauxô] Phase Ingredients (Chemical Name and Trade Name) % by weight A 2% Crosslinked Poly-Gamma Glutamate Hydrogel MA TOA-SPR 2 Qsp 100 A GLYCEROL 5.0 B POLYGLYCERYL-3 LAURATE HYDRAMOL TGL ESTER MB 5.0 C Pigments (Iron Oxides and Titanium Dioxide) 5.0 C PROPANEDIOL 4.0 C WATER 0.5 C POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID (and) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (and) ISOSTEARIC ACID (and) LECITHIN (and) POLY-GLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE APPLECARE PDS-300 MB 0.2 D Triheptanoin (and) Coco-caprylate / caprate (and) Di-linoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer GRANSENSE TC-21X-C 30.0 D SILICA SOLESPHERE H-33 1.0 D SACCHAROMYCES FERMENT (and) LAUROYL LYSINE GRANPOWDER BBP-700-LP 3.0 E Parfum 0.5

[0223] This formulation was prepared according to the following cold process under Rayneri. It includes the following steps: - Phase A is stirred; - Phase B is added to phase A, under stirring at approximately 500 rpm; - Preparation of phase C: the components are weighed, mixed and ground in the three-roller; - Phase C is added to phase A; - Preparation of phase D: the fillers are introduced into the oily gel until a white and homogeneous gel is obtained; - Phase D is added to aqueous phase A under stirring at 600 rpm, and the mixture is left under stirring for 15-20 minutes; - Phase E is added to the mixture.

[0224] The resulting composition is stable and homogeneous in appearance.

[0225] When applied to the skin, this tinted primer has a cooling effect, a rolling effect on the skin, and a matte and powdery finish.

[0226] 4.4 Tinted primer in the form of a reverse (water-in-oil) emulsion

[0227] In this water-in-oil emulsion, two amphiphilic compounds are present: - the sorbitan sesquiisostearate contained in the product SALACOS 182 V, and - the polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate contained in the product BENTONE® LUXE WN.

[0228] [Tables?] Phase Ingrédients (Nom chimique et Nom commercial) % en poids A SORBITAN SESQUIISOSTEARATE SALACOS 182 V LO A C9-12 ALKANE and COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE VEGELIGHT 1214 LC D 8.6 A C9-12 ALKANE (and) DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE (and) PROPYLENE CARBONATE VEGELIGHT BENTONE SILK 5.3 A Triheptanoin (and) Coco-caprylate / caprate (and) Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer GRANSENSE TC-21X-C 34.0 A Capric / Caprylic Triglycéride (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite BENTONE LUXE WN MB 8.0 Al Pigments traités ; sodium myristoyl glutamate 4.2 Al POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID (and) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (and) ISOSTEARIC ACID (and) LECITHIN (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE APPLECARE PDS-300 MB 0.2 Al C9-12 ALKANE and COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE VEGELIGHT 1214 LC D 1.0 B Hydrogel de poly-gamma glutamate réticulé à 2% MA TOA-SPR 2 Qsp 100 B GLYCEROL 10.0 B CHLORPHENESIN 0.27 B PENTYLENE GLYCOL 3.0 B CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 B1 ETHANOL 1.0 B2 SILICA AND AMINE ACID 3.75 B2 SACCHAROMYCES FERMENT (and) LAUROYL LYSINE 3.0 . GRANPOWDER BBP-700-LP C Parfums 0.5

[0229] This formulation was prepared according to the following cold process under emulsifier. It comprises the following steps: - Phase A is stirred, - Preparation of phase Al: the components are weighed, mixed and ground in a three-roll mill, - Phase Al is then added to phase A at 1700rpm, - Preparation of phase B: the components are weighed and mixed in the deflocculator at 350rpm until a homogeneous phase is obtained, - Phases B and B1 are added to phase A under emulsification at 2500rpm. - Phase B2 is added at a speed of 1800rpm, - Phase C is added to the mixture.

[0230] The resulting composition allows for a rolling effect during application and a soft, matte finish.

[0231] BIBLIOGRAPHICAL REFERENCES

[0232] WO 2021 / 41046

[0233] EP 1 563 831

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition for skincare and / or makeup of keratinic materials, comprising: - at least one aqueous phase gelled by cross-linked polyglutamic acid or one of its salts, and - at least one oily phase gelled by at least one non-siliconized elastomer.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the two aqueous and oily phases form a macroscopically homogeneous mixture.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that the aqueous phase is gelled by a cross-linked sodium salt of poly-gamma-glutamate (gamma-PGA).

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the percentage of crosslinked polyglutamic acid or one of its salts in the composition is between 0.1 and 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that at least one non-siliconized elastomer is a crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel comprising at least one solvent and a single crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers, said elastomer or said mixture of elastomers being obtained from a prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups and a (poly)isocyanate.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, further comprising at least one amphiphilic compound.

7. Cosmetic composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the amphiphilic compound is selected from a polyglycerol and fatty acid ester in C6-C30, in particular in C10-C20 and preferably in C12-C20, a fatty alcohol in C16-C22, a non-ionic surfactant, and mixtures thereof.

8. Cosmetic composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the amphiphilic compound is selected from polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, lauryl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, sesquii- Sorbitan sostearate and mixtures thereof.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, further comprising fillers, preferably lipophilic fillers, in particular silica and / or lauroyl lysine fermented by saccharomyces of INCI name: Saccharomyces ferment lauroyl lysine.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, further comprising at least one colouring material, and in particular at least one pigment.

11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the oily phase further comprises hydroxystearic acid.

12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the aqueous phase further contains at least one polyol, preferably selected from glycerol or a diol or one of their combinations, and more preferably contains a combination of glycerol, butylene glycol and hexanediol.

13. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it comprises less than 5% of silicone compound by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 1% of silicone compound by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or is devoid of silicone compound.

14. A method for preparing a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, comprising at least one mixing step: - of at least one aqueous phase gelled by cross-linked polyglutamic acid or one of its salts, and - of at least one oily phase gelled by at least one non-siliconized elastomer.

15. Cosmetic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the lips or facial skin, comprising the application on said keratinous materials of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13.