COMPOSITION SUITABLE FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS

Abstract

COMPOSITION SUITABLE FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS The present invention relates principally to a composition for keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: (a) at least one fatty amine; (b) at least one quat ester; and (c) at least one sucrose ester. The present invention can improve, for example, the smooth texture of keratinous fibers, such as hair, compared to a composition comprising only a fatty amine. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION SUITABLE FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS technical field

[0001] The present invention relates mainly to a composition suitable for the treatment, preferably for revitalization, of keratinous fibers such as hair. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] In the field of hair cosmetics, a variety of leave-in and rinse-out type hair care cosmetic products are used for hair treatment, for example for hair revitalization.

[0003] Hair treatment cosmetics often include a cationic or potentially cationic ingredient to anticipate improved cosmetic performance, such as a smooth texture, by deposition of the cationic or potentially cationic ingredient on the hair fiber. A fatty amine is one such ingredient widely used in hair treatment cosmetics. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0004] There is still a need to further improve the cosmetic performance of hair treatments based on fatty amine.

[0005] An objective of the present invention is to propose a composition that is useful for the treatment of keratinous fibers such as hair, based on fatty amine, which can offer keratinous fibers improved cosmetic performance such as an improved smooth texture.

[0006] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition for keratinous fibers, such as hair comprising: a. at least one fatty amine; b. at least one quat ester; and c. at least one sucrose ester.

[0007] The (a) fatty amine can be chosen from among the fatty amidoamines.

[0008] The (a) fatty amine can be chosen from among the fatty amidoamines meeting the formula (II) below:

[0009] R-CO-N(H)-R”-N(R')2 (II)

[0010] in which: • R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkyl radical or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a C5-C29 alkyl radical, better still a C5-C23, linear or branched, or a C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably a C7-C23, linear or branched; • R'1, which may be the same or different, represents a radical based divalent hydrocarbons (e.g., an alkylene group) containing fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms; and • R', which can be the same or different, represents a radical based monovalent hydrocarbons (e.g., an alkyl group) linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0011] The (a) fatty amine may be selected from the group consisting of stearami-dopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and one of their mixtures.

[0012] The quantity of the (a) fatty amine(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0013] The (b) quat ester can be represented by the following general formula (1):

[0014] R1CO-O-CH2CH2-N+(R3)2-CH2CH2-O-OCR2 A (1)

[0015] in which • each of R'CO and OCR2 independently designates a linear or branched acyl group, saturated and unsaturated, preferably saturated, having 10 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 14 to 20 carbon atoms, • R3 independently designates an alkyl group at C,4 such as a methyl group, or a hydroxyalkyl group at C1_4 such as a hydroxyethyl group (-CH2CH2OH), and • A is a counterion.

[0016] The (b) quat ester may be selected from the group consisting of distea-roylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and one of their mixtures.

[0017] The quantity of the (b) quat ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0018] The (c) sucrose ester may be selected from esters of sucrose and at least one fatty acid in the C6-C30 range, preferably linear or branched C12-C22, saturated or unsaturated.

[0019] The (c) sucrose ester may be selected from the group consisting of sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, and a mixture thereof.

[0020] The quantity of the (c) sucrose ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one oil.

[0022] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be 7 or less, preferably 6 or less, and more preferably 5 or less.

[0023] The composition according to the present invention may comprise:

[0024] from 0.01% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of (a) at least one fatty amine selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and one of their mixtures;

[0025] from 0.01% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of (b) at least one quat ester selected from the group consisting of distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and a mixture thereof; and

[0026] from 0.01% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of (c) at least one sucrose ester selected from the group consisting of sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, and a mixture thereof.

[0027] The present invention also relates to a process for treating keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the steps of: i. application of the composition according to the present invention to keratinous fibers; and ii. Optional rinsing of keratinous fibers with or without drying of the keratinous fibers after rinsing. Best embodiment of the invention

[0028] After extensive research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to propose a composition that is useful for the treatment of keratinous fibers such as hair, based on fatty amine, and which can offer keratinous fibers improved cosmetic performance such as a reinforced smooth texture.

[0029] Thus, the present invention relates primarily to a composition for keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising:

[0030] (a) at least one fatty amine;

[0031] (b) at least one quater ester; and

[0032] (c) at least one sucrose ester.

[0033] The present invention can improve the treatment of keratinous fibers, such as hair, based on at least one fatty amine, by co-using at least one quat ester and at least one sucrose ester, with the fatty amine, to provide keratinous fibers with improved cosmetic performance such as a reinforced smooth texture.

[0034] Thus, the composition according to the present invention can improve, for example, the smooth texture of keratinous fibers, such as hair, compared to a composition including only a fatty amine.

[0035] In addition, the composition according to the present invention can also improve another texture of keratinous fibers, for example, by providing a sheathed feel and suppleness.

[0036] Consequently, the composition according to the present invention is useful for the treatment of keratinous fibers such as hair, in particular for the revitalization of keratinous fibers.

[0037] The present invention will be described in detail below.

[0038] [Composition]

[0039] The composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0040] (a) at least one fatty amine;

[0041] (b) at least one quater ester; and

[0042] (c) at least one sucrose ester.

[0043] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention should be a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratin fibers, and even more preferably a cosmetic composition for the revitalization of keratin fibers. It is particularly preferable that the keratin fibers be hair.

[0044] (Fat amine)

[0045] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one fatty amine. Two or more fatty amines may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of fatty amine or a combination of different types of fatty amines may be used.

[0046] The term "fatty amines" refers to primary, secondary, or tertiary fatty amines, which are optionally (poly)oxyalkylated, or their salts. Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C6-C3 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amines according to the present invention are not quantified. Preferably, the fatty amines according to the present invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0047] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one fatty amine comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0048] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one fatty amine selected from among the tertiary fatty amines.

[0049] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more tertiary fatty amines selected from fatty amidoamines.

[0050] The (a) fatty amine that can be used in the context of the present invention can be chosen from the fatty amines corresponding to formula (I) below:

[0051] RN(R')2(I)

[0052] in which: • R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular, a C6-C30 alkyl radical, preferably C8-C24, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a C6-C30 alkyl radical, preferably C8-C24, linear or branched, or a C6-C30 alkenyl radical, preferably C8-C24, linear or branched; and • R', which may be identical or different, represent a radical based of monovalent hydrocarbons, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, containing fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0053] The (a) fatty amine corresponding to formula (I) above may be chosen, for example, from dimethyllauramine, dimethylbehenamine, dimethylcocamine, dimethylmyristamine, dimethylpalmitamine, dimethylstearamine, dimethyl-tallowamine, dimethylsojamine and mixtures thereof.

[0054] The (a) fatty amine that can be used in the context of the present invention can also be chosen from fatty amidoamines, preferably fatty amidoamines corresponding to formula (II) below:

[0055] R-CO-N(H)-R”-N(R’)2 (II)

[0056] in which: • R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a C5-C29 alkyl radical, better still a C5-C23, linear or branched, or a C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably C7-C23, linear or branched; • R'1, which may be the same or different, represents a radical based divalent hydrocarbons (e.g., an alkylene group) containing fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms; and • R', which can be the same or different, represents a radical based monovalent hydrocarbons (e.g., an alkyl group) linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0057] The (a) fatty amine corresponding to formula (II) above may be chosen, for example, from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, sojamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, visonamidopropyl dimethylamine, avoinamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicami-dopropyl dimethylamine, and their mixtures.

[0058] Preferably, the (a) fatty amine can be chosen from among the fatty amidoamines, preferably from among the fatty amidoamines of formula (II) above.

[0059] It is preferable that the (a) fatty amine be chosen from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and one of their mixtures.

[0060] The chemical structure of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine can be represented by the formula (III) below:

[0061] in which • R denotes an alkyl group in Cp for stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0062] Thus, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention comprise (a) at least one fatty amine selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and one of their mixtures.

[0063] The quantity of the (a) fatty amine(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] The quantity of the fatty amine(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0065] Thus, the quantity of the (a) fatty amine(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0066] (Ester Quat)

[0067] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one quat ester. Two or more quat esters may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of quat ester or a combination of different types of quat esters may be used.

[0068] The term "quater ester" here refers to a chemical compound comprising both at least one quaternary nitrogen atom and at least one ester bond in its cationic part. Preferably, it refers to a class of surfactant quaternary ammonium compounds corresponding to the general formula R1R2R3R4N+A, in which at least one, preferably two, of the hydrocarbon groups, R1 to R4, has 6 or more carbon atoms, preferably 8 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms, and at least one ester bond such as -C(=O)-O- and -OC(=O)-, and A refers to any anionic counterion.

[0069] Preferably, the (b) quat ester is selected from among quat diesters that have a quaternary nitrogen atom and two groups, preferably two hydrocarbon groups, in which each of the groups has 6 or more carbon atoms, preferably 8 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms, and at least one ester bond, preferably one ester bond, as mentioned above. It is more preferable that, in the quat diesters, the oxygen atom of the ester bond is linked to the quaternary nitrogen atom via a Cm alkyl group such as an ethyl group.

[0070] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (b) quat ester can be represented by the following general formula (1):

[0071] R1CO-O-CH2CH2-N+(R3)2-CH2CH2-O-OCR2 A (1)

[0072] in which • each of R'CO and OCR2 independently designates a linear or branched acyl group, saturated and unsaturated, preferably saturated, having 10 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 14 to 20 carbon atoms, • R3 independently designates an alkyl group in Cm such as a methyl group, or a hydroxyalkyl group in Ci_4 such as a hydroxyethyl group (-CH2CH2OH), and • A is a counterion.

[0073] In a preferred embodiment, the radicals R1 and R2 in formula (1) are each independently linear alkyl groups having 9 to 27 carbon atoms, preferably 11 to 23 carbon atoms, and more preferably 13 to 19 carbon atoms.

[0074] In formula (1), the counterion A can be chosen from chloride, bromide, methosulfate MeSO4 (where Me is methyl, CH3), tosylate, phosphate, sulfate, hydrogen sulfate, lactate and citrate, more preferably from chloride and methosulfate MeSO4. The counterion A- can in particular be chloride.

[0075] In a more preferred embodiment, in formula (1) above, R'CO and OCR2 can be derived from • (a) octadecanoic acid: this yields, for example, distea-roylethyl dimonium chloride, • (1b) eicosanoic acid: this gives, for example, dieosanoic chloride soylethyl dimonium • Docosanoic acid: this yields, for example, didoco-soylethyl dimonium chloride, • (Id) tetracosanoic acid: this yields, for example, ditetra-cosoylethyl dimonium chloride, • (the) oleic acid: this yields, for example, dio-oleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, • (If) the fatty acid at C20-22: this gives, for example, dibehen-noylethyl dimonium chloride, and • (1g) the fatty acid in C18 22: this gives, for example, stea- chloride roylethyl behenoylethyl dimonium or distearoylethyl dimonium chloride or distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and • (Ih) the fatty acid in Ci6 22: this gives, for example, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride or dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.

[0076] Preferably, the (b) quat ester is chosen from the group consisting of distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dibehenoylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride and one of their mixtures.

[0077] In particular, it is preferable that the (b) quat ester be chosen from the group consisting of distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and a mixture thereof. As distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, Varisoft EQ 65 MB, marketed by Evonik, can be used. As dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, Varisoft EQ 90, com- marketed by Evonik can be used.

[0078] The quantity of the (b) quat ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0079] The quantity of the (b) quat ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0080] Thus, the quantity of the (b) quat ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0081] (Sucrose ester)

[0082] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one sucrose ester. Two or more quaternary esters may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of sucrose ester or a combination of different types of sucrose esters may be used.

[0083] The (c) sucrose ester may be selected from sucrose esters and at least one fatty acid. In one embodiment, the (c) sucrose ester may be selected from sucrose esters and at least one C6-C30 fatty acid, preferably linear or branched C12-C22, saturated or unsaturated. The fatty acids may include, but are not limited to, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, caproic acid, capric acid, and lauric acid.

[0084] The (c) sucrose ester can also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0085] The (c) sucrose ester may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof.

[0086] It is preferable that the (c) sucrose ester be chosen from among the sucrose monoesters, and more preferably from the group consisting of sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, and one of their mixtures.

[0087] The quantity of the (c) sucrose ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0088] The quantity of the (c) sucrose ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] Thus, the quantity of the (c) sucrose ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0090] (Water)

[0091] The composition according to the present invention may include (d) water.

[0092] Thus, if the composition according to the present invention comprises (d) water, the composition according to the present invention is not anhydrous.

[0093] The quantity of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] Furthermore, the quantity of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0095] The quantity of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 20% to 95% by weight, preferably from 30% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0096] (Oil)

[0097] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one oil. Two or more oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.

[0098] Here, “oil” refers to a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid, paste, or solid at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oil(s), those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0099] The (e) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0100] The (e) oil may be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.

[0101] Examples of oils of vegetable origin include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, jojoba esters, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0102] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

[0103] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0104] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0105] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.

[0106] Esters of dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in Ci-C22, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols in C4-C26, can also be used.

[0107] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; trii-socetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.

[0108] As ester oils, esters and sugar diesters of C6-C30 fatty acids, and preferably C2-C22, may be used, which are different from (c) sucrose ester. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to compounds based on oxygen-bearing hydrocarbons containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0109] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0110] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of fatty acids in the C6-C30, and preferably in the C2-C22 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated range. If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0111] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0112] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0113] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0114] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0115] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for instance, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0116] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0117] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methyl-hydrogenopolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dode-camethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0118] Preferably, silicone oils are selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and polyorgano- liquid siloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0119] These silicone oils can also be organo-modified. The organo-modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

[0120] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968) by Walter Noll, Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0121] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and even more particularly from: i. Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7, and preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. Examples include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia; decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia; and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Also included are cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylal-kylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide, with the formula:

[0122] We can also mention mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; i. Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 1976, pp. 27–32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.

[0123] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups.

[0124] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following may be cited, without limitation: the products

[0125]

[0126]

[0127]

[0128]

[0129]

[0130] following commercial agents: • Silbione® oils from the 47 and 70 047 ranges or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000; • the oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia; • Dow Corning's 200 series oils, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; • Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils from the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric. We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company. Silicones containing aryl groups include polydiarylsiloxanes, notably polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples include products sold under the following names: • Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range by Rhodia; • the oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia; • Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning; • silicones from Bayer's PK range, such as product PK20; • certain oils from General Electric's SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265. Organomodified liquid silicones may contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone from Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide. Hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from: • Lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam^ and squalane. Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for instance, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof. It is preferable that the (e) oil be chosen from among polar oils, more preferably ester oils, and even more preferably monoester oils.

[0131] The quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0132] Furthermore, the quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0133] The quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 3% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0134] (Fatty alcohol)

[0135] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one fatty alcohol. Only one type of fatty alcohol may be used, or two or more different types of fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

[0136] The term "fatty" here means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have at least 6, preferably at least 8, and more preferably at least 10 carbon atoms, are included within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols can be linear or branched. Two or more fatty alcohols can be used in combination.

[0137] The (f) fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from Ci2-C24 alkyl and Ci2-C24 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0138] Non-limiting examples of (f) fatty alcohols that may be cited include lauric alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonylic alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and any mixture thereof.

[0139] Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0140] Fatty alcohol can represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol can coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.

[0141] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is selected from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and alcohol stearyl (cetearyl alcohol).

[0142] It is preferable that the (f) fatty alcohol be chosen from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.

[0143] The quantity of the (f) fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0144] Furthermore, the quantity of the (f) fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0145] The quantity of the (f) fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0146] (Hydroxy acid)

[0147] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (g) at least one hydroxy acid or one of its salts. If two or more hydroxy acids or their salts are used, they may be identical or different.

[0148] The (g)hydroxyacid may comprise at least one mono- or polycarboxylic acid comprising at least one hydroxyl functional group. The (g)hydroxyacid may be selected from α- and [3-hydroxyacids. For example, the (g)hydroxyacid may be an α-hydroxyacid. The α and [3] positions reflect the fact that at least one of the hydroxyl groups occupies an α or [3] position relative to at least one of the carboxyl groups of the acid; that is, it is attached, respectively, either to the carbon bearing the hydroxyl group or to the carbon adjacent to the one bearing the carboxyl group. The acid may be present in a form selected from the free acids, their associated salts (such as salts with organic bases and alkali metals), for example, depending on the final pH given to the composition, and optionally the corresponding lactides (i.e., the form obtained by autoesterification of the molecules). AHA:

[0149] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one α-hydroxy acid (AHA) or one of its salts as (g) hydroxy acid or one of its salts. If two or more α-hydroxy acids or their salts are used, they may be identical or different.

[0150] The term "α-hydroxy acid", or "AHA", here denotes a carboxylic acid which has at least one hydroxyl group on the adjacent (alpha) carbon atom.

[0151] The α-hydroxy acid can be represented by the following chemical formula (I):

[0152] (Ra)(Rb)C(OH)COOH

[0153] where • Ra and Rb are H, F, Cl, Br, I, an alkyl, aralkyl or aryl group in saturated or unsaturated form, isomeric or non-isomeric, straight-chain or branched or cyclic, having 1 to 25 carbon atoms, and furthermore, Ra and Rb may bear OH, CHO, COOH and an alkoxyl group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms.

[0154] The hydrogen atom attached to the carbon atom may be substituted by F, Cl, Br, I, or a lower alkyl, aralkyl, aryl, or alkoxyl group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms. Alpha hydroxy acids may be present as the free acid or lactone, or as a partial salt with an organic base or an inorganic alkali. Alpha hydroxy acids may exist as stereoisomers such as the D, L, DL, and meso forms.

[0155] When Ra and Rb are alkyl groups, they can independently be found in any of the following groups: Ci-C5, C6-C10, Cn-Ci5, Ci6-C20, C21-C25, and C26-C29. The compounds in the above chemical formula therefore include all possible combinations of Ra and Rb. Included in the above is a subgenus of compounds having Ra and Rb independently selected from Ci-Ci2.

[0156] Typical alkyl, aralkyl, aryl and alkoxyl groups for Ra and Rb include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, pentyl, octyl, lauryl, stearyl, benzyl, phenyl, methoxyl and ethoxyl.

[0157] The alpha hydroxy acids of the first group can be subdivided into 1. alkyl alpha hydroxyacids, 2. Aralkyl and aryl alpha hydroxy acids, 3. polyhydroxy alpha hydroxyacids, 4. Alpha hydroxy polycarboxylic acids, and 5. various alpha hydroxy acids.

[0158] The following are the representative alpha hydroxy acids in each subgroup. 1. Alkyl alpha hydroxy acids: 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (glycolic acid), 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (lactic acid), 2-methyl 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (methyl lactic acid), 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-Hydroxyeicosanoic acid (alpha hydroxyarachidonic acid), 2-Hydroxytetraeicosanoic acid (cerebronic acid), 2-Hydroxytetraeicosenoic acid (alpha hydroxynervonic acid) and 2,4-Dihydroxy-3,3-Dimethylbutanoic acid (pantoic acid) 2. Aralkyl and aryl alpha hydroxy acids: 2-phenyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (mandelic acid); 2,2-diphenyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (benzyl acid), 3-phenyl 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (phenyllactic acid), 2-phenyl 2-methyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (atrolactic acid) and 4-hydroxymandelic acid. 3. Polyhydroxy alpha hydroxy acids: 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid (glyceric acid); 2,3,4-trihydroxybutanoic acid (isomers; erythronic acid, threonic acid); 2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxypentanoic acid (isomers; ribonic acid, arabinoic acid, xylonic acid, lyxonic acid); 2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyhexanoic acid (isomers; allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid, talonic acid); 2,3,4,5,6,7-hexahydroxyheptanoic acid (isomers; glucoheptonic acid, galactoheptonic acid, mannoheptonic acid, etc.) 4. Alpha hydroxy polycarboxylic acids: 2-hydroxypropane-1,3-dioic acid (tartronic acid); 2-hydroxybutane-1,4-dioic acid (malic acid); 2-hydroxy-2-methylbutane-1,4-dioic acid (citramalic acid); 2,3-dihydroxybutane-1,4-dioic acid (tartaric acid); 2,3,4-trihydroxypentane-1,5-dioic acid (isomers; ribaric acid, arabic acid, xylaric acid, lyxaric acid); 2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxyhexane-1,6-dioic acid (isomers; glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, allaric acid, altraric acid, gularic acid, idaric acid, talaric acid); 2-hydroxy-1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid (citric acid); l-hydroxy-l,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid (isocitric acid); l-hydroxy-l,2,4-butanetricarboxylic acid (homoisocitric acid); 2-hydroxy-3-hexadecyl-1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid (n-hexadecyl citric acid; agaricic acid). 5. Various alpha-hydroxy acids: glyceruronic acid, erythronic acid, threonic acid; 2,3,4-trihydroxypentanuronic acids (isomers; riburonic acid, arabinuronic acid, xyluronic acid, lyxuronic acid); 2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxyhexanurononic acid (isomers; alluronic acid, altruronic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, guluronic acid, iduronic acid, galacturonic acid, taluronic acid); 2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyheptanuronic acid (isomers; alloheptanuronic acid, altroheptanuronic acid, glucoheptanuronic acid, mannohepta-nuronique acid, guloheptanuronic acid, idoheptanuronic acid, galacto-heptanuronic acid, taloheptanuronic acid).

[0159] The α-hydroxy acid may be chosen, for example, from the group consisting of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, gluconic acid, mucinic acid, and a mixture thereof. BHA:

[0160] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one [3-hydroxy acid (BHA) or one of its salts, as (g) hydroxy acid or one of its salts. If two or more [3-hydroxy acids or their salts are used, they may be identical or different.

[0161] The term “[3-hydroxy acid”, or “BHA”, here denotes a carboxylic acid which has at least one hydroxyl group on the beta carbon atom.

[0162] Examples of 3-hydroxy acids include, without limitation, salicylic acid and its derivatives, in particular its alkylated derivatives of formula (I) below or a salt of such a derivative: CQOH I w fô R2

[0163] in which: • RI represents a hydroxyl radical or ester with the formula:

[0164] -O-CO-R4

[0165] in which: • R4 is a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 26 carbon atoms, and preferably from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or an amine or thiol function optionally substituted by an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and preferably from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, • R2 and R3, independently of each other, are in position 3, 4, 5 or 6 on the benzene ring and represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or the radical:

[0166] -(O)n-(CO)m-R5

[0167] in which n and m, independently of each other, are each an integer equal to 0 or 1; provided that R2 and R3 are not simultaneously hydrogen atoms;

[0168] R5 represents a hydrogen atom, a linear, branched or cyclized saturated aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or an unsaturated radical containing from 3 to 18 carbon atoms, bearing one to nine conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds, the radicals being able to be substituted by at least one substituent selected from halogen atoms (fluorine, chlorine, bromine or iodine), trifluoromethyl radicals, hydroxyl in free form or esterified by an acid containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or carboxyl in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0169] The salicylic acid derivative of formula (I) is preferably such that RI represents a hydroxyl radical, R2 represents a hydrogen atom, R3 is at position 5 of the benzene ring and represents a -CO-R5 radical in which R5 represents a saturated aliphatic radical containing from 3 to 15 carbon atoms.

[0170] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the salicylic acid derivative of formula (I) is selected from 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 5-tert-octylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-5-methylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-6-methylsalicylic acid, 3,5-diisopropylsalicylic acid, 5-butoxysalicylic acid, 5-octyloxysalicylic acid, 5-propanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-hexadecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-oleoylsalicylic acid, 5-benzoylsalicylic acid, their monovalent and divalent salts, and mixtures thereof. This refers more specifically to 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (INCI: Capryloyl Salicylic Acid).

[0171] Preferred hydroxyacid:

[0172] It is preferable that the (g) hydroxy acid have two or more carboxylic groups, and more preferably two or three carboxylic groups.

[0173] It is also preferable that the (g) hydroxy acid have one or more hydroxyl groups, and more preferably one or two hydroxyl groups.

[0174] It is preferable that the (g) hydroxy acid be chosen from the α-hydroxy acid.

[0175] It is more preferable that the (g) hydroxyl acid be chosen from the group consisting of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, gluconic acid, mucinic acid, and a mixture thereof.

[0176] It is even more preferable that the (g) hydroxyl acid be chosen from the group consisting of citric acid, tartaric acid, and one of their mixtures.

[0177] Citric acid or its salts may be derived from natural sources, including, but not limited to, Amanatsu, Balady lemon, bergamot, bitter orange, blood orange, Buddha's hand, calamondin, Cambodian orange, the chinotto, citrange, citron, citrumelo, clementine, Corsican citron, desert lime, Etrog, Florentine citron, grapefruit, Greek citron, haruka, hassaku, hyuganatsu, first lady, Jabara, kabosu, combava, kanpei, kawachi bankan, key lime, kinkoji unshiu, kinnow, Kiyomi, kobayashi mikan, koji orange, kuchinotsu No.37, the kumquat, the lemon, the lime, the lumie, the mandarin orange, the mangshanyegan, the Meyer lemon, the Moroccan citron, the chinet, the navel orange, the orange, the orangelo, the oroblanco, the ichang papeda, the Persian lime, the pomelo, the pompia, the ponkan, the ponderosa lemon, the rangpur, the Microcitrus australis, the satsuma, the shangjuan, the shonan gold, the sudachi, the lime, the Taiwan tangerine, the tangelo, the tangerine, the tangor, the ugli, the Volkamer lemon, the yuko, the yuzu, the blueberry, the strawberry, the raspberry, the cranberry, the redcurrant, the blackcurrant, the gooseberry, the pineapple, the tamarind, the cherry, the peach, the apricot and the tomato. .

[0178] Tartaric acid or its salts may be derived from natural sources, including, but not limited to, grapes, apricots, apples, bananas, avocados and tamarind.

[0179] The (g) hydroxy acid(s) or its (their) salt(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0180] The (g) hydroxyl acid(s) or its (their) salt(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0181] The (g) hydroxyl acid(s) or its (their) salt(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0182] (pH)

[0183] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 7 or less, preferably of 6 or less, and more preferably of 5 or less, which is measured at 25 °C.

[0184] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 3 or more, which is measured at 25 °C.

[0185] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 3 to 7, preferably of 3 to 6, and more preferably of 3 to 5, which is measured at 25 °C.

[0186] (Alkaline agent)

[0187] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one alkali agent. Two or more alkali agents may be used in combination. Thus, a only one type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents may be used.

[0188] The alkaline agent can be used to correct the pH of the composition according to the present invention.

[0189] The alkali agent may be an inorganic alkali agent. Preferably, the alkali agent should be non-volatile. Preferably, the inorganic alkali agent should be chosen from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides; alkaline earth metal hydroxides; and alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.

[0190] Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are preferable as inorganic alkali metals.

[0191] The alkali agent may be an organic alkali agent. Preferably, the organic alkali agent should be chosen from the group consisting of monoamines and diamines, which are different from (a) fatty amine.

[0192] Examples of monoamines include alkanolamines such as mono-, di-, and triethanolamine, comprising 1 to 3 hydroxyalkyl (C1-C4) groups. In particular, alkanolamines may be selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

[0193] Diamines can be described by the structure (B) below: R R.

[0194] in which W denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a C1-C4 hydroxyl or alkyl radical, and Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives.

[0195] The quantity of the alkali agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0196] Furthermore, the quantity of the alkali agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0197] Thus, the quantity of the alkali agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0198] (Acid)

[0199] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one acid that is different from the (g) hydroxy acid. Two or more acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.

[0200] The acid can be used to correct the pH of the composition according to the present invention.

[0201] As an acid, we can cite all inorganic or organic acids that are commonly used in cosmetic products, such as citric acid, lactic acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid (HCl).

[0202] The quantity of the acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0203] Furthermore, the quantity of the acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0204] Thus, the quantity of the acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0205] (Other optional ingredients)

[0206] The composition according to the present invention may also include at least one other optional ingredient, selected in particular from: anionic, cationic, nonionic, and amphoteric surfactants; thickeners; sunscreens; moisturizers; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; antibacterial agents such as benzoic acid; preservatives such as phenoxyethanol; chelating agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizers or coalescers; fillers; emulsifiers; polymers, in particular revitalizing polymers such as cationic polymers; and perfumes. The composition may, of course, include several cosmetic ingredients listed above.

[0207] The composition according to the present invention may include one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols: in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and caprylyl glycol; other polyols such as glycerol; and ethers such as monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of propylene glycol and monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of butylene glycol.

[0208] Depending on their nature and the purpose of the composition, the above optional ingredient(s) may be present in normal quantities that can be easily determined by those skilled in the art and which may be, for each ingredient, between 0.01% and 80% by weight. Those skilled in the art shall take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition, as well as their quantities, so that they do not impair the properties of the composition according to the present invention.

[0209] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one silicone; however, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be free of any silicone.

[0210] The silicone can be chosen from organopolysiloxanes.

[0211] The expression "free of all silicone" means that the composition according to the present invention does not include a substantial amount of silicone. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of a silicone, in particular no silicone.

[0212] (Form)

[0213] The composition according to the present invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O / W, W / O or multiple type (if the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil); a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream (W / O) or (O / W) type; an aqueous gel; or any other cosmetic form.

[0214] The composition according to the present invention can be in any pharmaceutical form. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be in the form of any hair treatment in general, such as a cream, lotion, gel, or the like.

[0215] The composition according to the present invention can be used for the treatment of Preference is given to revitalization, and more preferentially to the smoothing of keratinous fibers such as hair.

[0216] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be of the rinse-off type. In other words, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be removed from the keratin fibers, by any means such as water (in this case, rinsed off), after having been applied to the keratin fibers.

[0217] [Process]

[0218] The present invention also relates to a process for treating keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising the steps of: i. application of the composition according to the present invention to keratinous fibers; and ii. Optional rinsing of keratinous fibers with or without drying of keratinous fibers after rinsing.

[0219] Details of the composition used in the process according to the present invention are explained in the section entitled [Composition] above.

[0220] The process according to the present invention is intended for the treatment, preferably the revitalization, and more preferably the smoothing of keratin fibers such as hair. In this sense, the process according to the present invention is not intended for the remodeling of keratin fibers, for example, for the waving or permanent straightening of keratin fibers.

[0221] It is preferable that the keratin fibers be cleaned before step (i). This cleaning step can be carried out, for example, by shampooing the keratin fibers, followed by rinsing them. After rinsing, the keratin fibers can be dried. It is preferable that the keratin fibers be wetted just before step (i).

[0222] In step (i), the composition according to the present invention, which is explained above, is applied to keratinous fibers such as hair. The application of the composition according to the present invention can be carried out by any means, such as a brush or a comb.

[0223] The bath ratio between the composition applied according to the present invention and the keratinous fibers can range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and is preferably between 0.3 and 2. The expression "bath ratio" is intended to designate the weight ratio between the total weight of the composition applied and the total weight of the keratinous fibers.

[0224] It may be possible, after application of the composition according to the present invention, to leave the keratinous fibers as they are for a certain period of time; typically from 1 to 30 minutes, preferably from 2 to 20 minutes, and more preferably from 3 to 10 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow the composition to act on the keratinous fibers.

[0225] After step (i), the process according to the present invention may include the optional step of (ii) rinsing the keratinous fibers with or without drying the keratinous fibers after rinsing.

[0226] Thus, if step (ii) is present, the keratin fibers are rinsed to remove the composition according to the present invention from the keratin fibers. The rinsing step can be carried out with water. It is preferable that the keratin fibers be dried after rinsing. Drying of the keratin fibers can be carried out with a conventional drying method such as a hairdryer. [Use]

[0227] The present invention may also relate to a use of:

[0228] (c) at least one sucrose ester,

[0229] in a treatment composition, preferably for revitalizing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising (a) at least one fatty amine, and

[0230] (b) at least one quater ester,

[0231] in order to improve the texture, preferably the smooth texture, of keratinous fibers.

[0232] The texture in use according to the present invention may include not only a smooth texture, but also a sheathed feel and flexibility.

[0233] The above composition may further comprise (d) water and / or (e) at least one oil and / or (f) at least one fatty alcohol and / or (g) at least one hydroxy acid.

[0234] The above explanations concerning (a) fatty amine, (b) quat ester, and (c) sucrose ester, as well as (d) water, (e) oil, (f) fatty alcohol and (g) hydroxy acid, can be applied to those in the above composition used for use according to the present invention.

[0235] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0236] from 0.01% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of (a) at least one fatty amine selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and a mixture thereof;

[0237] from 0.01% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of (b) at least one quat ester selected from the group consisting of distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate and a mixture thereof; and

[0238] from 0.01% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of (c) at least one sucrose ester selected from the group consisting of sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, and a mixture thereof.

[0239] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention understand :

[0240] from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of (a) at least one fatty amine;

[0241] from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of (b) at least one quater ester; and

[0242] from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of (c) at least one sucrose ester selected from the group consisting of sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate and a mixture thereof.

[0243] EXAMPLES

[0244] We will describe the present invention in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 [Preparation]

[0245] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. The ingredients, with the exception of water, shown in Table 1 and a portion of water were mixed at 80 °C to form an emulsion. The emulsion was then cooled to room temperature, and the remaining water was added to the emulsion. The numerical values ​​for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on the "% by weight" as active substances.

[0246] [Tables 1] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. comp. 1 Ex. comp. 2 Ex. comp. 3 DISTEAROYLETHYL DIMONIUM CHLORIDE (65% by weight MA) (1) 1.8 1.8 1.8 - 1.8 1.8 STEARAMIDOPROPYL DIMETHYLAMINE 1.2 1.2 1.2 2.4 1.2 1.2 TARTARIC ACID 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.4 0.2 0.2 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 6 6 6 6 6 6 CETYL ESTERS (and) CETYL ESTERS 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE 2 2 2 2 2 2 BUTY-ROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER / BUTY-ROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER 1 1 1 1 1 1 HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL / HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 SUCCHAROSE LAURATE 0.5 - - - - - SUCCHAROSE PALMITATE - 0.5 - - - - GLYCERYL STEARATE SE (and) SUCCHAROSE STEARATE (2) - - 0.5 - - - SORBITAN OLEATE - - - - - 0.5 Preservative qs qs qs qs qs qs WATER qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 pH 3.93 3.73 3.75 3.66 3.61 4.08 Coefficient of friction 0.220 0.206 0.203 0.183 0.195 0.194

[0247] MA: Active ingredient

[0248] (1) sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the name VARISOFT EQ 65 MB (containing 65% active ingredient)

[0249] (2) sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the name TEGO CARE SE 121 MB [Reviews]

[0250] (Coefficient of friction)

[0251] All bleached hair strands (1 g, 27 cm) were washed once with shampoo. After shampooing, the hair strand was rinsed with water and then dried. Next, 0.4 g of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was applied to each hair strand and dried with a hairdryer.

[0252] The coefficient of friction of the dried hair strands was measured using the Handy Rub Tester TL701 from Trinity-Lab Inc.

[0253] The results are shown in Table 1 above.

[0254] The compositions according to Examples 1 to 3, which include stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, and sucrose esters (sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate), have a lower value than the composition according to Comparative Examples 1 to 3, which do not include the three ingredients. This indicates that the compositions with stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, and sucrose esters improve the smooth texture.

[0255] (Sensory analysis 1)

[0256] All bleached hair strands (2.7 g, 27 cm) were treated once with shampoo. After shampooing, the hair strand was rinsed with water and then dried. Next, 1.0 g of each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was applied to each hair strand and dried with a hairdryer.

[0257] A sensory test was conducted to evaluate the smooth texture, sheathing feel, and suppleness of hair fibers by comparing hair strands treated with the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 2 and 3 with the hair strand treated with the composition according to Comparative Example 1 standardized to 0. The relative scores for smooth texture, sheathing feel, and suppleness of hair fibers were averaged among four participants. A higher score indicates a smoother, more sheathed feel and more supple hair fibers.

[0258] The results are shown in Table 2 below.

[0259] [Tables2] Ex. comp. 1 Ex. comp. 2 Ex. comp. 3 Ex. 1 Smooth texture 0 0.5 -0.3 0.5 Sheathed sensation 0 0 0.3 1.0 Flexibility 0 -0.3 0 0.8

[0260] The composition according to Example 1, which includes (a) fatty amine (stearamidopropyl dimethylamine), (b) quat ester (distearoylethyl dimonium chloride), and (c) sucrose ester (sucrose laurate), shows higher values ​​than the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 to 3, which do not include the three ingredients. This indicates that the composition with (a) fatty amine, (b) quat ester, and (c) sucrose ester improves the smooth texture, sheathing feel, and suppleness of the hair fibers.

[0261] (Sensory Analysis 2)

[0262] All bleached hair strands (2.7 g, 27 cm) were treated once with shampoo. After shampooing, the hair strand was rinsed with water and then dried. Next, 1.0 g of each composition according to Examples 1 to 3 was applied to each hair strand and dried with a hairdryer.

[0263] A sensory test was conducted to evaluate the smooth texture, sheathing feel, and suppleness of the hair fibers by comparing hair strands treated with the compositions according to Examples 2 and 3 with the hair strand treated with the composition according to Example 1 standardized to 0. The relative scores for smooth texture, sheathing feel, and suppleness of the hair fibers were averaged among four participants. A higher score indicates a smoother, more sheathed feel and more supple hair fibers.

[0264] The results are shown in Table 3 below.

[0265] [Tables3] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Smooth texture 0 0.1 0.3 Sheathed feel 0 0.1 -0.1 Suppleness 0 0.3 -0.1

[0266] Compositions according to Examples 2 and 3 which include (a) fatty amine (stearamidopropyl dimethylamine), (b) quat ester (distearoylethyl dimonium chloride) and (c) sucrose ester (sucrose palmitate or stearate of Sucrose (which is different from sucrose laurate) shows almost the same results with the composition according to Example 1, which includes (a) fatty amine (stearamidopropyl dimethylamine), (b) quat ester (distearoylethyl dimonium chloride), and sucrose laurate. This indicates that the composition with (a) fatty amine, (b) quat ester, and (c) sucrose ester achieved a comparable level of smooth texture, sheathed feel, and suppleness regardless of the type of (c) sucrose ester used.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition for keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: (a) at least one fatty amine; (b) at least one quat ester; and (c) at least one sucrose ester.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein (a) fatty amine is selected from among the amidoamines.

3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein (a) the fatty amine is selected from fatty amidoamines corresponding to the formula (II) below: R-CO-N(H)-R”-N(R')2 (II) wherein: - R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a C5-C29 alkyl radical, more preferably a C5-C23, linear or branched, or a C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably C7-C23, linear or branched; - R'1, which may be the same or different, represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical (for example, a alkylene group) containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms;and - R', which may be identical or different, represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical (e.g., an alkyl group) linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.;

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (a) fatty amine is selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and a mixture thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) quat ester is represented by the following general formula (1): R1CO-O-CH2CH2-N+(R3)2-CH2CH2-O-OCR2 A (1) in which - each of R'CO and OCR2 independently designates a linear or branched acyl group, saturated and unsaturated, preferably saturated, having 10 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 14 to 20 carbon atoms, - R3 independently designates a C,4 alkyl group such as a methyl group, or a Ci_4 hydroxyalkyl group such as a hydroxyethyl group (-CH2CH2OH), and - A is a counterion.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (b) ester is selected from the group consisting of distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and a mixture thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the (c) sucrose ester is selected from sucrose esters and at least one C6-C3o fatty acid, preferably linear or branched Ci2-C22, saturated or unsaturated.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the (c) sucrose ester is selected from the group consisting of sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, and a mixture thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition further comprises (e) at least one oil.

10. Process for treating keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising the steps of: (i) applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the keratinous fibers; and (ii) optionally rinsing the keratinous fibers with or without drying the keratinous fibers after rinsing.