COMPOSITION COMPRISING A PARTICULAR SILICONE EMULSION, A CATIONIC POLYSACCHARIDE, A SOLID FATTY ALCOHOL AND A CATIONIC SURFACTANT
The composition addresses the issue of poor silicone deposition in cosmetic treatments by using an oil-in-water emulsion with a specific silicone blend and cationic agents, enhancing hair quality and styling ease.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024000831
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-01-29
- Publication Date
- 2025-08-01
- Estimated Expiration
- 2034-01-29
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions for keratinous fibers, particularly hair, suffer from insufficient deposition of silicones, leading to poor cosmetic properties such as detangling and styling issues, while aggressive cleaning treatments cause damage and loss of natural oils and proteins.
A composition comprising an oil-in-water silicone emulsion with a specific silicone blend, cationic polysaccharide, cationic surfactant, and solid fatty alcohol, which improves deposition and retention of silicones on hair, enhancing softness, smoothness, and ease of styling.
The composition effectively improves hair feel and styling ease, providing long-lasting benefits of smoothness, reduced frizz, and improved detangling, while maintaining cleanliness and reducing greasiness.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING A PARTICULAR SILICONE EMULSION, A CATIONIC POLYSACCHARIDE, A SOLID FATTY ALCOHOL AND A CATIONIC SURFACTANT
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for treating keratinous fibers and, in particular, human keratinous fibers such as hair, which comprises a specific oil-in-water type silicone emulsion, at least one cationic polysaccharide, at least one fatty alcohol and at least one cationic surfactant.
[0002] The invention also relates to a method for treating keratinous fibers, preferably for washing and / or revitalizing keratinous fibers, comprising the application to the keratinous fibers of a composition according to the invention.
[0003] It is common to use detergent cosmetic compositions, such as shampoos and shower gels, essentially based on surfactants, to wash keratinous materials, such as, in particular, hair and skin. These compositions are applied to the keratinous materials, which are preferably wet, and the foam generated by massage or rubbing with the hands or a washcloth makes it possible, after rinsing with water, to remove the various types of dirt initially present on the hair or skin.
[0004] These compositions contain significant levels of “detergent” surfactants which, in order to be able to formulate cosmetic compositions with good washing power, must in particular give them good foaming power.
[0005] The surfactants useful for this purpose are generally of the anionic, non-ionic and / or amphoteric type and, in particular, of the anionic type.
[0006] These compositions generally have good washing power, but the intrinsic cosmetic properties associated with them nevertheless remain quite poor, in particular because the relatively aggressive nature of such a cleaning treatment can, in the long term, lead to more or less pronounced damage caused to the hair fiber, this damage being associated in particular with the progressive elimination of the lipids or proteins contained in or on the surface of this fiber.
[0007] Thus, in order to improve the cosmetic properties of the above detergent compositions and, more particularly, those which must be applied to sensitized hair (i.e. hair which has been damaged or weakened, in particular under the chemical action of atmospheric agents and / or hair treatments such as permanent waving, dyeing or bleaching), it is now common to introduce additional cosmetic agents called conditioners into these compositions. These conditioners are mainly intended to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced by the various treatments or attacks to which the hair fibers are subjected more or less repeatedly. They can, of course, also improve the cosmetic behavior of natural hair.
[0008] The conditioners most commonly used in shampoos today include cationic polymers, silicones and / or silicone derivatives, which impart softness and smoothness that are significantly better than those obtainable with corresponding cleansing compositions that lack them.
[0009] The use of a mixture of silicone and cationic polymer is in particular known. However, the compositions which contain them still have numerous drawbacks, such as insufficient deposition of silicones on the hair and therefore a strong impact on their cosmetic properties and, more particularly, with regard to the detangling of wet or dry hair.
[0010] There is therefore a real need to provide compositions, such as cosmetic and / or revitalizing compositions for keratinous fibers and, in particular, for human keratinous fibers, which make it possible to overcome the drawbacks described above, namely which effectively remove dirt and excess sebum, which are particularly suitable for damaged hair, reduce frizz and improve the cosmetic properties of said fibers, such as softness, smooth texture, ease of styling and, in particular, ease of detangling and combing. These cosmetic properties can also be long-lasting.
[0011] These objectives are achieved with the present invention, a subject of which is a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising:
[0012] a) an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm and comprising:
[0013] - a silicone blend comprising (i) a trial-terminated dialkylpolysiloxane alkylsilyl having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone,
[0014] - a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more non-ionic emulsifiers, wherein the emulsifier mixture has an HLB value of 10 to 16, and
[0015] - water;
[0016] b) at least one cationic polysaccharide;
[0017] c) at least one cationic surfactant and
[0018] d) at least one solid fatty alcohol, preferably containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms.
[0019] It has been noted that the composition according to the invention, when applied to keratinous fibers, in particular to human keratinous fibers such as hair, leads to an improvement in the condition and quality of the hair, in terms of hair feel (e.g., smooth feel, soft feel, revitalized feel, non-greasy, non-burdened) and ease of styling (e.g., combing, detangling, desirable volume, suppleness, less frizz).
[0020] In particular, it has been observed that keratinous fibers, in particular hair (wet or dry), treated with the composition according to the invention are easier to untangle and easier to style.
[0021] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention has good detergent power and the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, treated with the composition according to the invention are particularly clean and light.
[0022] The observed properties of the composition according to the invention are particularly durable.
[0023] The present invention also relates to a method for treating keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair, preferably for washing and / or revitalizing the keratinous fibers, comprising the application to the keratinous fibers of a composition according to the invention.
[0024] Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the example which follows.
[0025] In this description, and unless otherwise indicated:
[0026] - the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and may be replaced by it;
[0027] - the expression “between” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from” and can be replaced by this one, and implies that the limits are included;
[0028] - within the meaning of the present invention, the expression “greater than” and respectively the expression "less than" is intended to mean an open range which is strictly greater, respectively strictly less, and therefore the limits are not included;
[0029] - According to the present application, the expression “keratinous fibers” designates preferably human keratinous fibers such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and body hair, preferably hair, eyebrows and eyelashes, even more preferably, hair;
[0030] - for the purposes of the present invention, the term “hair” designates the hairs covering the scalp. This term does not refer to body hair other than that of the scalp, eyebrows, or eyelashes.
[0031] - for the purposes of the present invention, the expression “fatty substance” is intended denote a non-oxyalkylenated organic compound, which is insoluble in water at 30°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 x 105 Pa), i.e. it has a solubility in water of less than or equal to 5% (g of compound per mL of water) and, preferably, less than or equal to 1%, even more preferably less than or equal to 0.1%. For example, fatty acids and fatty alcohols are, within the meaning of the present invention, fatty substances. The specific oil-in-water emulsion
[0032] The composition according to the present invention comprises an oil-in-water (or silicone-in-water) emulsion having a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm and containing:
[0033] - a silicone blend comprising (i) a trial-terminated dialkylpolysiloxane alkylsilyl having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone,
[0034] - a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more non-ionic emulsifiers, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has an HLB value of 10 to 16, and
[0035] - water.
[0036] In the oil-in-water emulsion, or silicone-in-water emulsion, one liquid phase (the dispersed phase) is dispersed in the other liquid phase (the continuous phase); in the present invention, the silicone mixture, or silicone phase, is dispersed in the continuous aqueous phase.
[0037] fi) trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes
[0038] The silicone mixture comprises a trialkylsilyl-terminated dialkylpolysiloxane, preferably of formula (A):
[0039] R'3SiO(R'2SiO)pSiR'3 (A)
[0040] in which:
[0041] - R', identical or different, are a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, more preferably methyl, and
[0042] - p is an integer from 500 to 2,000, preferably from 1,000 to 2,000;
[0043] The trialkylsilyl-terminated (or end-blocked or in the α, β position) dialkylpolysiloxanes according to the invention have a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s (100,000 excluded) at 25°C, preferably a viscosity of 40,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25°C, more preferably a viscosity of 51,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25°C.
[0044] The trialkylsilyl-terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes according to the invention are preferably linear but may contain, in addition to R'2SiO2 / 2 units (D units) in formula (A), RSiO3 / 2 units (T units) and / or SiO4 / 2 units (Q units), in which R', identical or different, are a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0045] Preferably, R', which may be identical or different, are alkyl radicals, preferably C1-C18 alkyl radicals, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl and tert-pentyl radicals, hexyl radicals, such as the n-hexyl radical, heptyl radicals, such as the n-heptyl radical, octyl radicals, such as the n-octyl radical and isooctyl radicals, such as the 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl radical, nonyl radicals, such as the n-nonyl radicals, decyl radicals, such as the n-decyl radical, dodecyl radicals, such as the n-dodecyl radical, and octadecyl radicals, such as the n-octadecyl radical; alkenyl radicals, such as the vinyl radical and the allyl radical; cycloalkyl radicals, such as the cycloopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, and methylcyclohexyl radicals;aryl radicals, such as phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl and phenanthryl radicals; alkaryl radicals, such as o-, m- and p-tolyl radicals, xylyl radicals and ethylphenyl radicals; and aralkyl radicals, such as benzyl radical and a- and b-phenylethyl radical. The methyl radical is most preferred. ;
[0046] Preferably, the trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes are trimethylsilyl terminated PDMS (polydimethylsiloxanes or dimethicones).
[0047] fii) amino silicones
[0048] The silicone mixture comprises an amino silicone which is preferably of formula (B):
[0049] XR2Si(OSiAR)n(OSiR2)mOSiR2X (B)
[0050] in which:
[0051] - R, identical or different, are a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or even better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and even better still a methyl;
[0052] - X, identical or different, are R or a hydroxyl group (OH) or a C alkoxy rC6; preferably X is R, namely a monovalent hydrocarbon radical comprising from 1 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or even better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and even better still a methyl;
[0053] - A is an amino radical of formula -R*-[NR2-R3-]XNR22, or the amino forms protonated of said amino radical, in which R1 is a C1-C6 alkylene radical, preferably a radical of formula -CH2CH2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, R2, identical or different, are a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, preferably a hydrogen atom, R3 is a C1-C6 alkylene radical, preferably a radical of formula -CH2CH2- and x is 0 or 1;
[0054] and
[0055] - m + n is an integer from 50 to about 1000, preferably from 50 to 600.
[0056] Preferably, A is an amino radical of formula -R1-[NR2-R3-]xNR22, or the protonated amino forms of said amino radical, wherein R1 is -CH2CH2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, R2 are hydrogen atoms, R3 is -CH2CH2- and x is 1.
[0057] Preferably, R, which may be identical or different, are alkyl radicals, preferably Cr-C28 alkyl radicals, more preferably Cr-Ci8 alkyl radicals such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl and tert-pentyl radicals, hexyl radicals, such as the n-hexyl radical, heptyl radicals, such as the n-heptyl radical, octyl radicals such as the n-octyl radical and isooctyl radicals such as the 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl radical, nonyl radicals such as the n-nonyl radicals, decyl radicals, such as the n-decyl radical, dodecyl radicals, such as the n-dodecyl radical, and octadecyl radicals, such as the radical n-octadecyl; alkenyl radicals such as the vinyl and allyl radicals; cycloalkyl radicals, such as the cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl and methylcyclohexyl radicals;aryl radicals, such as the phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl and phenanthryl radicals; alkaryl radicals, such as the o-, m- and p-tolyl radicals, the xylyl radicals and the ethylphenyl radicals; and aralkyl radicals such as the benzyl radical and the a- and b-phenylethyl radicals. The methyl radical is most preferred. ;
[0058] The amino silicones according to the invention have a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C, preferably of 1,500 to 15,000 mPa.s.
[0059] The amino silicones according to the invention have an amine index of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, preferably of 3.5 to 8 mg.
[0060] The mole percentage of amine functionality is preferably in the range of about 0.3% to about 8%.
[0061] Examples of amino silicones useful in the silicone blend of the invention include a trialkylsilyl terminated amino silicone.
[0062] Most preferably, the amino silicones are trimethylsilyl-terminated aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane copolymers, most preferably trimethylsilyl-dimethylsiloxane-terminated aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane copolymers. The amino radical A can be partially or fully protonated by adding acids to the amino silicone, in which the salt forms of the amino radical are obtained. Examples of acids are carboxylic acids having 3 to 18 carbon atoms which can be linear or branched, such as formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, pivalic acid, sorbic acid, benzoic acid, salicylic acid. The acids are preferably used in amounts of 0.1 to 2.0 moles per 1 mole of amino radical A in the amino silicone of formula (B).
[0063] The silicone mixture preferably comprises (i) one or more trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C in an amount of 70 to 90% by weight, preferably 75 to 85% by weight and (ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, in an amount of 10 to 30% by weight, preferably 15 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the silicone mixture, mixture of emulsifiers
[0064] The oil-in-water emulsion further comprises a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more non-ionic emulsifiers. It may optionally comprise one or more cationic surfactants.
[0065] The emulsifier mixture has an HLB value of 10 to 16.
[0066] The non-ionic emulsifiers may be chosen from the non-ionic surfactants described below.
[0067] Mention may be made of alcohols, α-diols and alkylphenols (C1-20), these compounds being polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups optionally ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups optionally ranging from 2 to 30; or alternatively compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular, from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0068] Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylenated and preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide, in particular oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C6-24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
[0069] Mention may also be made of non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented in particular by the following general formula:
[0070] R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v
[0071] in which:
[0072] - Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an al-kylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises from 6 to 24 carbon atoms carbon and, in particular, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
[0073] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
[0074] - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
[0075] -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4,
[0076] - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4.
[0077] Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds having the formula described above in which:
[0078] - Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical, comprising from 8 with 18 carbon atoms,
[0079] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
[0080] -1 denotes a number ranging from 0 to 3, and preferably equal to 0,
[0081] - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;
[0082] - the degree of polymerization, namely the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.
[0083] The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C8 / C16 1,4-alkyl(poly)glycosides and in particular decyl glucosides and caprylyl / caprylyl glucosides are most particularly preferred.
[0084] Among the commercial products, we can cite the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, or the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK.
[0085] The non-ionic emulsifiers could, preferably, be chosen from ethoxylated aliphatic alcohols, polyoxyethylenated surfactants, carboxylic esters, polyethylene glycol esters, a sorbitol ester and their ethoxylated derivatives, fatty acid glycol esters, carboxylic amides, monoalkanolamine condensates, polyoxyethylenated fatty acid amides.
[0086] Preferably, the non-ionic emulsifiers are chosen from:
[0087] (i) polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers, in particular (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols of formula:
[0088] R3-(OCH2CH2)cOH
[0089] with:
[0090] - R3 representing a linear or branched C8-C40 alkyl or alkenyl group, of preferably a C8-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group, optionally substituted with a or more hydroxyl groups, and
[0091] - c being an integer between 1 and 200 inclusive, preferably between 2 and 150 and more particularly between 4 and 50, most preferably between 8 and 20.
[0092] The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, oxyethylenated with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 EO);
[0093] (ii) polyoxyalkylene (C8-C32)alkylphenyl ethers,
[0094] (iii) polyoxyalkylenated sorbitan (C8-C32) fatty acid esters, in particular polyethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, most preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; preferably polyoxyethylene sorbitan (C10-C24) fatty acid esters preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, most preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; and
[0095] (iv) polyoxyethylenated (C8-C32) fatty acid esters containing, for example, from 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide; preferably polyoxyethylenated (C10-C24) fatty acid esters containing, for example, from 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide.
[0096] Preferably, the non-ionic emulsifiers could be chosen from a polyalkylene glycol alkyl ether and polyalkylene glycol alkyl esters; preferably polyethylene glycol (PEG).
[0097] Some useful emulsifiers are:
[0098] - polyethylene glycol octyl ether; polyethylene glycol lauryl ether; polyethylene neglycol tridecyl ether; polyethylene glycol cetyl ether; polyethylene glycol stearyl ether; among these, we can cite more particularly trideceth-3, trideceth-10 and steareth-6.
[0099] - polyethylene glycol nonylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol dodecylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol stearylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol stearylphenyl ether;
[0100] - polyethylene glycol sorbitan mono stearate, polyethylene glycol monooleate sorbitan.
[0101] - polyethylene glycol stearate, and in particular PEG-100 stearate.
[0102] Most preferably, the non-ionic emulsifiers are chosen from steareth-6, PEG-100 stearate, trideceth-3 and trideceth-10 and their mixture; preferably, all these emulsifiers are present in the mixture of emulsifiers.
[0103] The emulsifier mixture could comprise one or more cationic emulsifiers which could be selected from tetraalkylammonium halides, tetraarylammonium halides, tetraalkylarylammonium halides and their salts; quaternary ammonium compounds, including salts; preferably, the cationic emulsifiers could be selected from cetrimonium halides or behentrimonium halides, such as chloride.
[0104] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the mixture of emulsifiers in a total amount of 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 8 to 15% by weight, most preferably 10 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
[0105] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises non-ionic emulsifiers in a total amount of 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 8 to 15% by weight, most preferably 10 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
[0106] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises cationic emulsifiers, where appropriate, in a total amount of 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
[0107] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the silicone mixture in a total amount of 40 to 60% by weight, more preferably 45 to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
[0108] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the trialkylsilyl-terminated dialkylpolysiloxane(s) in a total amount of 35 to 45% by weight, more preferably 38 to 42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
[0109] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the amino silicone(s) in a total amount of 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 8 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
[0110] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises water in an amount of 25 to 50% by weight, more preferably 30 to 45% by weight, most preferably 35 to 42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
[0111] The oil-in-water emulsion could further comprise a biocide, such as phenoxyethanol, which could be present in the emulsion in an amount of 0.5 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
[0112] A process for preparing the oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises:
[0113] - a step of mixing one or more trial-terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes alkylsilyl with a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and one or more amino silicones with a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, at a temperature of 15°C to 40°C, preferably at 25°C, to obtain a mixed silicone fluid, then
[0114] - a step of adding a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more emul non-ionic emulsifiers, wherein the emulsifier mixture has an HLB value of 10 to 16, to the mixed silicone fluid to obtain a silicone-emulsifier mixture, and then
[0115] - a step of homogenization of the silicone-emulsifier mixture followed by
[0116] - a step of adding, preferably in stages, water, preferably semi-solid water generalized, to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 less than 350 nm.
[0117] The method for preparing the oil-in-water emulsion could further comprise a step of adding a biocide. A biocide could be added to preserve the emulsion against microbial contamination. The biocide could be added at the level in order to preserve the emulsion against microbial contamination and obtain said emulsion. The amount of the biocide depends on the type of biocide and the manufacturer's recommendations.
[0118] The preparation of the emulsifier mixture could be carried out by mixing one or more non-ionic emulsifiers.
[0119] The pH of the oil-in-water emulsion after neutralization (i.e. after addition of the biocide) is preferably 4 to 6.
[0120] The oil-in-water emulsion has a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm, preferably from 100 nm to 300 nm, more preferably from 150 nm to 250 nm, even more preferably from 150 nm to 225 nm, and most preferably from 160 nm to 200 nm. It corresponds to the average hydrodynamic diameter of the particles. The particle size D50 is expressed in volume. The particle size D50 could be measured using a ZetaSizer device from Malvern, UK, model Nano-ZS, which is based on the photon correlation spectroscopy (PCS) method. Particle size measurement
[0121] The particle size of an emulsion could be measured using a ZetaSizer device from Malvern, UK, model Nano-ZS, based on the photon correlation spectroscopy (PCS) method. The D50 value of the particle size (average hydrodynamic diameter of the particles) is measured, the evaluation algorithm being "cumulant analysis".
[0122] For example, take 0.5 g of the emulsion sample into a 250 ml beaker, pour 100 ml of deionized water into it, and then mix them properly to obtain the sample test solution. The sample test solution is poured into the cuvette cell and placed in the slot of the instrument to measure the particle size of the emulsion. D50 is defined as the value of the 50% particle diameter in the cumulative distribution. For example, if D50 = 170 nm, then 50% of the particles in the sample are larger than 170 nm and 50% smaller than 170 nm or about 50% by volume of all the droplets in said emulsion are 170 nm. Viscosity measurement
[0123] The viscosity, in particular of silicones or emulsion, is measured at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa).
[0124] For viscosities between 1000 and 40,000 mPa.s at 25°C: the viscosity could be measured using an Anton Paar rheometer; model MCR101, single-gap cylinder geometry: CC27 spindle and shear rate of 1 s 1 for 2 minutes, at 25 °C.
[0125] For viscosities between 40,000 and 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C: the viscosity could be measured using an Anton Paar rheometer; model MCR101, cone 25-6 (cone-plate geometry: 25 mm dia. / cone 6°); the “zero air gap” setting being carried out and with a shear rate of 1 s 1 for 2 minutes, at 25°C.
[0126] Three measurements are made for each sample and the viscosity value is taken at 60 seconds. The MCR Rheometer range of products operate in accordance with USP (US Pharmacopeia Convention) 912 - Rotational Rheometer Methods. Amine Index Measurement
[0127] The amine value is determined by acid-base titration using a potentiometer [Brand: Veego; Model: VPT-MG]. 0.6 g of sample is taken into a 500 ml beaker and a 1:1 toluene-butanol mixture is added and stirred to mix the sample well; the sample solution is then titrated with a 0.1 (N) HCl solution. A blank value determination with the 1:1 toluene-butanol mixture is also performed. The calculation of the amine value is performed using the aforementioned potentiometer.
[0128] The amine index is calculated according to the formula:
[0129] 56.11 x (V - VBianc) x N / W mg KOH / g of sample,
[0130] in which
[0131] - V = volume of HCl required in ml, Vbianc = volume of HCl for blank value (without sample) with the toluene-butanol mixture 1:1 in ml; N = Normality of HCl, i.e. 0.1 N, W = weight of the sample taken in grams. HLB Value
[0132] The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and designates the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant or emulsifier. In the present invention, the HLB values refer to the values at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
[0133] HLB can be measured by experimental determination or can be calculated.
[0134] The calculation of the HLB value of a non-ionic surfactant is made according to the following equation: HLB = (E + P) / 5, E being the weight percentage of the oxyethylene content and P being the weight percentage of the polyhydric alcohol content, described in the publication Griffin, J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (vol. 5, no. 4), pages 249-256.
[0135] It can also be determined experimentally according to the book by F. Puisieux and M. Seiller entitled “Galenica 5: Dispersed systems - Volume I - Surface agents and emulsions - Chapter IV - Concepts of HLB and critical HLB, pages 153-194 - paragraph 1.1.2. Determination of HLB by experimental means, pages 164-180”.
[0136] The calculated HLB corresponds to the preferred HLB values that should be taken into account.
[0137] Said calculated HLB could be defined as follows:
[0138] “Calculated HLB = 20 x molar mass of the hydrophilic part / total molar mass.”
[0139] For an oxyethylenated fatty alcohol, the hydrophilic part corresponds to the oxyethylene units condensed on the fatty alcohol and the “calculated HLB” then corresponds to the “Griffin HLB” as defined above.
[0140] For an ester or an amide, the hydrophilic part is naturally defined as being located beyond the carbonyl group, starting with the fatty chain(s).
[0141] For ionic surfactants / emulsifiers, the HLB value of each individual surfactant / emulsifier can be calculated by applying the Davies formula as described in Davies JT (1957), "A quantitative kinetic theory of emulsion type, I. Physical chemistry of the emulsifying agent", Gas / Liquid and Liquid / Liquid Interface (Proceedings of the International Congress on Surface Activity): 426-438.
[0142] According to the formula, the HLB is derived by summing the hydrophilic / hydrophobic contribution offered by the structural components of the emulsifier:
[0143] HLB = (number of hydrophilic groups) - n(number of groups per CH2 group) + 7.
[0144] Approximate HLB values for some cationic emulsifiers are given in Table IV, in "Cationic emulsifiers in cosmetics", GODFREY, J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists (1966) 17, pages 17-27.
[0145] When two emulsifiers A and B of known HLB are mixed for use, the HLB Mix is said to be the HLB required for the mixture. This is expressed by the equation (WAHLBA + WbHLBb) / (Wa + WB) = HLBMix, where WA = the amount (weight) of the first emulsifier (A) used and WB = the amount (weight) of the second emulsifier (B); HLBa, HLBb = the HLB values assigned to emulsifiers A and B; HLBMix = the HLB of the mixture.
[0146] Said oil-in-water emulsion is for example described in document WO 2017 / 108824.
[0147] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the oil-in-water emulsion a) in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 12% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 8%, or even better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0148] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the trialkylsilyl-terminated dialkylpolysiloxane(s) having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight, better still from 0.7 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0149] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the amino silicone(s) having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine index of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic polysaccharides
[0150] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic polysaccharide.
[0151] According to the present invention, the term "cationic polysaccharide" designates any polysaccharide comprising cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups, and not comprising anionic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into anionic groups.
[0152] These cationic polysaccharides according to the invention are non-silicone cationic polysaccharides. In other words, the cationic polysaccharides according to the invention do not contain a silicon (Si) atom.
[0153] Among the cationic polysaccharides which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and cationic galactomannan gums.
[0154] Cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in French patent 1,492,597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name UCARE POLYMER “JR” (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400 or LR 30M) by the company Dow Chemical. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group. Polyquatemium-10 is for example one of these polymers.
[0155] Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl-celluloses grafted, in particular with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. Commercial products cor meeting this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names CELQUAT L 200 and CELQUAT H 100 by the company National Starch.
[0156] Cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US patents 3,589,578 and US 4,031,307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, preferably C1-C6 trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, the chloride) may be used. Such products are sold in particular under the names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 and JAGUAR C162 by the company Rhodia.
[0157] Preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) is (are) chosen from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums and their mixtures; more preferably from cationic galactomannan gums.
[0158] Preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) is (are) chosen from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, modified or unmodified guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and mixtures thereof; more preferably from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups.
[0159] More preferably still, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydroxypropylguar hydroxypropyltrimonium salt and / or at least one guar hydroxypropyltrimonium salt, in particular at least one hydroxypropylguar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and / or at least one guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
[0160] Preferably, the total amount of cationic polysaccharide(s) ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.015% to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.02% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0161] Preferably, the total amount of cationic galactomannan gum(s) ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.015% to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.02% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight and, even better still, from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0162] Preferably, the total amount of guar gum(s) comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.015% to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.02% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0163] Preferably, the total amount of hydroxypropylguar hydroxypropyltrimonium salt(s), guar hydroxypropyltrimonium salt(s) or mixture thereof ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.015% to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.02% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and even better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic surfactants
[0164] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant.
[0165] According to the invention, the cationic surfactants c) are different from the cationic polysaccharides b).
[0166] The cationic surfactants may be chosen from salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.
[0167] As quaternary ammonium salts, we can cite in particular:
[0168] - quaternary ammonium salts of formula (la):
[0169] in which: • the groups R8 to Ru, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to Ru comprising from 8 to 30 and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, the aliphatic groups possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens; and • X is an anion chosen in particular from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates or (CrC4)alkylarylsulfonates;
[0170] The aliphatic groups R8 to Ru may be selected from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, C2-C6 polyoxyalkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, C1-C22 alkylamido-C2-C6 alkyl, C1-C22 alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl.
[0171] Mention may be made especially of tetraalkylammonium halides, especially chlorides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride.
[0172] Mention may also be made of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristyl acetate)-ammonium halides, and especially chlorides; especially the product sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk.
[0173] - imidazoline quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IIa): A .......co.......H-1 x '1 * (liai \___________ / R w |
[0174] in which • Rn represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, • Rn represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, • Ru represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, • R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a CrC4 alkyl group, • X is an anion specially selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (CrC4)alkyl sulfates, and (CrC4)alkylsulfonates or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates;
[0175] Preferably, Rn and Rn denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R 14 denotes a methyl group and R[5 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 or W90 by the company Evonik.
[0176] - quaternary di- or triammonium salts of formula (Ilia): R^ R, g 1 ...............N—R S1 | 2X' ,
[0177] in which: • Rie denotes an alkyl group comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, • Rn denotes hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a); Ri6a, Rna and Rj8a, which may be the same or different, denote hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, • R19, R21, and R22, which may be the same or different, denote hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and • X is a union, specially chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates and (CrC4 )alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
[0178] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, (Quaternium 75), sold by the company Finetex;
[0179] - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, of formula (IVa) below: —R» o 'r R2r-~c+Qc,H^OH);^ —o™trR23 x W FU
[0180] in which: • R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl groups and hydroxyalkyl groups or C1-C6 dihydroxyalkyl, • R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=O)-; the hydrocarbon groups C1-C22 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated R27; and a hydrogen atom, • R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=O)-; the hydrocarbon groups C1-C6 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated R29; and a hydrogen atom, • R24, R26 and R28, which may be the same or different, are chosen from: linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups in C7 to C2i, • r, s and t, which can be the same or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6, • rl and tl, which can be the same or different, are equal to 0 or 1, • y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10, • x and z, which can be the same or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10, • X is an anion,
[0181] it being understood that r2+ rl= 2r and tl+ t2= 2t, and that the sum of x + y + z goes from 1 to 15,
[0182] provided that when x = 0, R23 denotes R27 and when z is equal to 0, R25 designates R29.
[0183] The alkyl groups in R22 may be linear or branched, preferably linear. Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and, more particularly, a methyl or ethyl group.
[0184] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.
[0185] When R23 is a hydrocarbon group R27, it may comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or otherwise it may comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0186] When R25 is a hydrocarbon group R29, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0187] Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C2i hydrocarbon groups and, more particularly, from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn to C2p alkyl and alkenyl groups.
[0188] Preferably, x and z, which may be the same or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
[0189] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
[0190] Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly equal to 2.
[0191] The anion X is preferably a halide, preferably a chloride, a bromide or an iodide, a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, a (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonate or a (CrC4)alkylarylsulfonate, a methanesulfonate, a phosphate, a nitrate, a tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium carrying an ester function. The anion X is more particularly a chloride, a methyl sulfate or an ethyl sulfate.
[0192] More particularly, use is made, in the composition according to the invention, of ammonium salts of formula (IVa) in which: • R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, • x and y are equal to 1, • z is equal to 0 or 1, • r, s and t are equal to 2, • R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=O)-; the methyl, ethyl or hy groups carbon atoms in C[4-C22, and a hydrogen atom, • R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=O)-; and a hydrogen atom, • R24, R26 and R28, which may be the same or different, are chosen from: linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn to Cp hydrocarbon groups and, preferably, among linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn to C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
[0193] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.
[0194] In another embodiment, use is also more particularly made, in the composition according to the invention, of ammonium salts of formula (IVa) in which: R22= R25= methyl, R23 is R26-C(=O)-, R24 and R26 = C7-C2i hydrocarbon-based groups, and x = y =1, z = 0 and t = r = 3, t2= r2=6, l|= ri= 0.
[0195] Among the compounds of formula (IVa), mention may be made of the salts, especially the chloride or methyl sulfate of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxy-ethylmethylammonium, triacyloxy-ethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains multiple acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.
[0196] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with mixtures especially of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification may be followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin. These compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by Henkel, Stepanquat® by Stepan, Noxamium® by CECA or Rewoquat® WE 18 by Evonik.
[0197] The composition according to the present invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts, with a majority by weight of diester salts. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function which are described in patents US-A-4,874,554 and US-A-4,137,180. It is also possible to use behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, sold by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131.
[0198] The cationizable surfactants that can be used can be chosen from fatty alkylamines such as fatty dialkylamines. Non-limiting examples include dimethyl lauramine, dimethyl behenamine, dimethyl cocamine, dimethyl myristamine, dimethyl palmitamine, dimethyl stearamine, dimethyl tallowamine, dimethyl soyamine and mixtures thereof.
[0199] The fatty dialkylamines are preferably fatty amidoamine compounds, their salts or their mixtures. Non-limiting examples include oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleylhydroxyethylimidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine and palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0200] Non-polymeric mono-, di- and / or tricarboxylic acids may be used. to “neutralize” fatty dialkylamines. In some cases, the one or more non-polymeric mono-, di-, and / or tricarboxylic acids include at least one dicarboxylic acid. Non-limiting examples include lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, benzoic acid, or mixtures thereof. In particular, lactic acid or tartaric acid or mixtures thereof are useful, especially in combination with fatty dimethylamines such as, for example, stearamidopropyldimethylamine.
[0201] Preferably, the cationic surfactants are chosen from quaternary ammonium salts of formula (Ia) and of formula (IVa) as described above and their mixtures.
[0202] More preferably, the cationic surfactants are chosen from those of formula (C) below: CH, O (C) IJ II ur CHt”CH”O”C”R1 H,G. / 2 JX + zN H„C \ CHr-CH-O—C~R2 X- 2 ! He ch3 O
[0203] in which: • RI and R2 are independently a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon moiety comprising 11 to 23 carbon atoms; • X is an anion specially chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, preferably a methsulfate.
[0204] By unsaturated hydrocarbon fraction is meant that the hydrocarbon radical comprises at least one carbon-carbon double bond (C=C) and / or at least one carbon-carbon triple bond. It can of course include several carbon-carbon double and / or triple bonds.
[0205] Preferably, RI represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical comprising 13 to 21 carbon atoms, in particular 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and in particular 17 to 18 carbon atoms. When it is unsaturated, RI preferably comprises at least one double bond (C=C) and, in particular, a single double bond, two double bonds or three double bonds.
[0206] Preferably, R2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical comprising 13 to 21 carbon atoms, in particular 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and in particular 17 to 18 carbon atoms. When it is unsaturated, R2 preferably comprises at least one double bond (C=C) and, in particular, a single double bond, two double bonds or three double bonds.
[0207] Preferably, RI and R2 comprise the same number of carbon atoms. Preferably, R2 represents an oleyl group. Preferably, RI represents an oleyl, stearyl or isostearyl group. When unsaturated, RI preferably comprises at least one double bond (C=C) and, in particular, a single double bond, two double bonds or three double bonds.
[0208] According to a preferred embodiment, R1 represents a stearyl group or an isostearyl group and R2 represents an oleyl group.
[0209] These cationic surfactants are in particular described in US documents 6,653,275, US 20140286889 and EP 0,240,727.
[0210] A preferred cationic surfactant is bis-(isostearoyl / oleoyl isopropyl)dimonium salt, particularly bis-(isostearoyl / oleoyl isopropyl)dimonium methosulfate or chloride.
[0211] Preferably, the total amount of cationic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0212] Preferably, the total amount of quaternary ammonium salt(s) chosen from those of formula (Ia), those of formula (IVa), those of formula (C) and their mixtures ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0213] Preferably, the total amount of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (C) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0214] Preferably, the total amount of bis-(isostearoyl / oleoyl isopropyl)dimonium salt(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0215] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of the cationic surfactant(s) c) to the total content of the cationic polysaccharide(s) b) is greater than or equal to 1; more preferably, ranges from 1 to 10; even more preferably, from 1.1 to 8; better still from 1.5 to 6; even better still from 2 to 5.
[0216] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from those of formula (Ia), those of formula (IVa), those of formula (C) and their mixtures, to the total content of the cationic polysaccharide(s) b) is greater than or equal to 1; more preferably ranges from 1 to 10; even more preferably from 1.1 to 8; better still from 1.5 to 6; even better still from 2 to 5.
[0217] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (C) to the total content of the cationic polysaccharide(s) b) is greater than or equal to 1; more preferably, ranges from 1 to 10; even more preferably from 1.1 to 8; better still from 1.5 to 6; even better still from 2 to 5. Solid fatty alcohols
[0218] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid fatty alcohol, preferably containing from 8 to 40, more preferably from 10 to 30, even more preferably from 12 to 24, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0219] According to the present invention, the term "fatty alcohol preferably containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms" means a non-oxyalkylenated and non-glycerolated alcohol comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain preferably comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms. By hydrocarbon is meant a hydrocarbon structure composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms.
[0220] The fatty alcohols according to the invention are non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated; more particularly non-glycerolated, non-oxyethylenated and non-oxypropylenated.
[0221] By “solid fatty alcohol” is meant a fatty alcohol having a melting point above 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05 Pa).
[0222] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1013xl05 Pa).
[0223] The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear or branched, and preferably comprise from 8 to 40, more preferably from 10 to 30, even more preferably from 12 to 24, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0224] More preferably, the solid fatty alcohols according to the invention are solid fatty monoalcohols.
[0225] The saturated solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably linear. They can optionally comprise in their structure at least one ring aromatic or not. Preferably, they are acyclic.
[0226] More particularly, the solid saturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixtures such as cetearyl alcohol.
[0227] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are chosen from solid fatty alcohols containing from 14 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0228] More preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are chosen from saturated and linear solid fatty alcohols; preferably saturated and linear solid fatty monoalcohols containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0229] More preferably still, the fatty alcohols are chosen from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and their mixtures such as cetearyl alcohol.
[0230] According to a most preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl alcohol.
[0231] Preferably, the total amount of solid fatty alcohol(s) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, and even better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0232] Preferably, the total amount of saturated and linear solid fatty alcohol(s) containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 3%, and better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0233] Preferably, the total amount of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof in the composition ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 3%, and better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Anionic surfactants
[0234] Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one anionic surfactant.
[0235] The expression “anionic surfactant” designates a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
[0236] In the present description, a species is said to be “anionic” when it carries at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized in the form of a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example, the medium or the pH) and that it does not comprise any cationic charge.
[0237] The anionic surfactants which can be used are, for example, chosen from carboxylate anionic surfactants, sulfonate anionic surfactants, sulfate anionic surfactants and mixtures thereof; more particularly from sulfate anionic surfactants.
[0238] It is understood in this description that: • the carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functions; • the anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise carboxylate functions and • anionic sulfate surfactants include at least one sulfate function, but do not include carboxylate or sulfonate functions.
[0239] The anionic sulfate surfactants that can be used comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3).
[0240] They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates and also the salts of these compounds.
[0241] The alkyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 28, better still from 10 to 24 or even from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.
[0242] These compounds are optionally polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
[0243] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and, in particular, amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
[0244] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be cited include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
[0245] Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and, in particular, salts of sodium or magnesium are preferably used.
[0246] More preferably, the anionic surfactants are chosen from anionic surfactants of alkyl(ether) sulfate type and, better still, from Ci2-Ci4 alkyl(ether) sulfate salts and, in particular, lauryl ether sulfate salts.
[0247] Suitable anionic surfactants in the composition of the present invention may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
[0248] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) is (are) present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30%, more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, even more preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, better still from 5% to 20% by weight, or even better still from 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0249] Preferably, when the one or more anionic surfactants are chosen from those of alkyl(ether)sulfate type, the one or more surfactants of alkyl(ether)sulfate type are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 30%, even more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, or even more preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, better still from 5% to 20% by weight, or even better still from 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0250] Preferably, when the one or more anionic surfactants are chosen from C12-C14 alkyl(ether)sulfate salts, the one or more C12-C14 alkyl(ether)sulfate salts are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 30%, even more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, or even more preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, better still from 5% to 20% by weight, or even better still from 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0251] Preferably, when the one or more anionic surfactants are chosen from lauryl ether sulfate salts, the one or more lauryl ether sulfate salts are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 30%, even more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, or even more preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, better still from 5% to 20% by weight, or even better still from 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0252] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the total amount of anionic surfactant(s), in particular surfactants of alkyl(ether)sulfate type, in particular C12-C14 alkyl(ether)sulfate salts and even more particularly lauryl ether sulfate salts, is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 7% by weight, or even better still greater than or equal to 10% by weight and even better still 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants
[0253] Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant.
[0254] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) which may be used in the present invention may in particular be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
[0255] More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is (are) chosen from (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine and mixtures thereof.
[0256] Preferably, the total amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.01% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 20%, even more preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, better still from 1% to 10% by weight, and even better still from 1.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0257] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more anionic surfactants and one or more amphoteric surfactants.
[0258] More preferably, the composition comprises: • one or more anionic surfactants of the alkyl(ether) sulfate type, in particular the salts of Ci2-CM alkyl(ether) sulfate such as the salts of lauryl-ethersulfate and • one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants chosen from (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
[0259] Preferably, the total amount of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (cumulative) may range from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight and even more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, better still from 5% to 22% by weight, or even better still from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0260] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention may, in addition, comprise at least one thickening polymer.
[0261] According to the present invention, the expression "thickening polymers" designates polymers which, by their presence at a concentration of 0.05% by weight, increase the viscosity of the cosmetic compositions into which they are introduced of at least 20 cps (20 mPa.s), preferably at least 50 cps (50 mPa.s), at room temperature (25 °C), at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s 1 (the viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or similar).
[0262] According to the invention, the thickening polymers which can be used are different from the cationic polysaccharides b). and the quaternary ammonium salts c).
[0263] The thickening polymer(s) which can be used in the process according to the invention is (are) preferably chosen from non-associative thickening polymers without sugar units, associative thickening polymers and their mixtures.
[0264] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “sugar unit” means an oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which includes at least 4 carbon atoms.
[0265] Even more preferably, the thickening polymers are chosen from crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers. Among the homopolymers of this type, mention may be made of those crosslinked with an allyl alcohol ether from the sugar range, for example the products sold under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company Noveon or the products sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by the company 3 VS A. These polymers bear the INCI name Carbomer.
[0266] Preferably, when the composition comprises at least one thickening polymer, the total amount of thickening polymer(s) ranges from 0.01 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.015 to 2% by weight, even more preferably from 0.02 to 1% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight and better still from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0267] Preferably, when the composition comprises at least one crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer, the total amount of crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer(s) ranges from 0.01 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.015 to 2% by weight, even more preferably from 0.02 to 1% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight and better still from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0268] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one polyol.
[0269] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" is intended to denote an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and carrying at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) carried by different carbon atoms, this compound being optionally cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.
[0270] According to the invention, the polyol which can be used is different from the fatty alcohols d).
[0271] More particularly, the polyol(s) which can be used according to the invention comprises from 2 to 30 hydroxyl groups, more preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and even more preferably from 2 to 3 hydroxyl groups.
[0272] The polyol(s) which may be used according to the invention generally comprise(s) at least three carbon atoms. More preferably, the polyol(s) which may be used according to the invention do not comprise(s) more than 8 carbon atoms.
[0273] Preferably, said polyol(s) which may be used according to the invention is (are) chosen from polyols comprising at least three carbon atoms and ethylene glycol, and are preferably chosen from 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol and a mixture of these compounds.
[0274] In a particularly preferred manner, the polyol(s) which can be used according to the invention is (are) chosen from glycerol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol or a mixture of these compounds, and preferably the polyol is hexylene glycol, glycerin or a mixture of these compounds.
[0275] Preferably, the polyol(s) represent(s) from 0.01% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0276] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises water.
[0277] The water advantageously represents from 30% to 95% by weight, preferably from 40% to 92% by weight, more preferably from 50% to 90% by weight and better still from 60% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0278] The pH of the composition of the invention is generally between 4 and 9, preferably between 4.5 and 8, better still, between 5 and 7.
[0279] The pH of the composition according to the invention can be corrected to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents generally used in cosmetic compositions, or by using standard buffer systems.
[0280] Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made of mineral acids, for example hydrochloric acid, (ortho)phosphoric acid, boric acid, nitric acid or sulfuric acid, or organic compounds, for example compounds comprising at least one carboxylic acid function such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, a sulfonic acid function, a phosphonic acid function or a phosphoric acid function.
[0281] The basifying agent(s) may be mineral, organic or hybrid.
[0282] The mineral alkaline agent or agents are preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium carbonate or bicarbonate, potassium carbonate or bicarbonate, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide or mixtures thereof.
[0283] The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additives.
[0284] As additives which may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, agents for preventing hair loss and / or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins, including panthenol, sunscreen agents, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or pearling agents, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives and pigments.
[0285] A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additives and their quantity so that they do not harm the properties of the composition according to the invention.
[0286] These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0287] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition, more preferably a hair composition such as a hair composition for cleaning and / or revitalizing the hair.
[0288] More preferably, the composition according to the invention is a shampoo, a conditioner or a hair mask.
[0289] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a cream-type texture.
[0290] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises:
[0291] - an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm and including: • a silicone mixture comprising (i) a trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, • an emulsifier mixture comprising one or more non-ionic emulsifiers, wherein the emulsifier mixture has an HLB value of 10 to 16, and • water;
[0292] - at least one cationic polysaccharide among cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums and mixtures thereof;
[0293] - at least one cationic surfactant chosen from quaternary ammonium salts chosen from those of formula (Ia), those of formula (IVa), those of formula (C) and their mixtures, as defined above; and
[0294] - at least one solid fatty alcohol chosen from saturated solid fatty alcohols and linear containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 12 to 24, better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0295] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises:
[0296] - an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm and including: • a silicone mixture comprising (i) a trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, • an emulsifier mixture comprising one or more non-ionic emulsifiers, wherein the emulsifier mixture has an HLB value of 10 to 16, and • water;
[0297] - at least one cationic polysaccharide among cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums and mixtures thereof;
[0298] - at least one cationic surfactant of formula (C) as defined above and
[0299] - at least one solid fatty alcohol chosen from saturated solid fatty alcohols and linear containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 12 to 24, better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms;
[0300] - at least one anionic surfactant of alkyl(ether) sulfate type, in particular a salt of C12-C14 alkyl(ether) sulfate such as lauryl ether sulfate salt;
[0301] - at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant chosen from (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof; and
[0302] - optionally at least one thickening polymer, preferably chosen from crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.
[0303] The present invention also relates to a method for treating keratinous fibers, preferably for washing and / or revitalizing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising a step of applying to the keratinous fibers a composition as described above.
[0304] Preferably, the keratinous fibers are rinsed after application to the keratinous fibers of the composition according to the invention.
[0305] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, after the application step, the composition according to the invention is removed after an optional exposure time. The exposure time of the composition on the keratinous fibers can range from a few seconds to 15 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to 10 minutes and even better still from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.
[0306] The composition could be applied to wet or dry keratinous fibers; preferably to wet keratinous fibers.
[0307] Finally, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as described above for washing and / or revitalizing keratinous fibers, preferably hair.
[0308] In the above description, all preferred embodiments regarding the components can be used individually or in combination.
[0309] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention.
[0310] EXAMPLES:
[0311] In the examples which follow and, unless otherwise indicated, the quantities are indicated as percentages by weight of active ingredient (AI) relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0312] Example 1: Preparation of an oil-in-water emulsion
[0313] 450 g of liquid amino silicone (aminoethyl-aminopropylmethylsiloxane copolymer - trimethylsilyl terminated dimethylsiloxane having an amine number of 7.2 mg KOH / g sample and a viscosity of 5600 mPa.s at 25 °C) was introduced into an emulsion tank. Stirring was started and 1800 g of liquid trimethylsilyl terminated dimethylsiloxane polymer with a viscosity of 61500 mPa.s at 25 °C was introduced under stirring into the same tank. The two liquids were mixed for 2 hours at room temperature.
[0314] In a separate tank, 49 g of steareth-6 and 62 g of PEG-100 stearate were introduced and heated to 60 °C. The temperature was maintained until both emulsifiers became liquid. 31 g of trideceth-3 and 350 g of trideceth-10 (80% active material) were then added. This mixture of non-ionic emulsifiers had an HLB value = 11.25.
[0315] 80 g of water and 6.2 g of glacial acetic acid were then added to the tank and mixing began. Mixing continued until the entire mass became a creamy paste. The entire paste was added to the emulsion tank. Homogenization was ensured for 30 minutes at room temperature. 79.6 g of demineralized water was added and homogenization was ensured for 60 minutes. 72.7 g of demineralized water was added and homogenization was ensured for 50 minutes. 197.4 g of demineralized water was added and homogenization was ensured for 5 minutes. 294.3 g of demineralized water was added and homogenization was ensured for 5 minutes. 180 g of demineralized water was added and homogenization was ensured for 5 minutes. 180 g of demineralized water was added and homogenization was ensured for 5 minutes. 197.4 g of demineralized water was added and homogenization was ensured for 5 minutes.197.4 g of demineralized water was added and homogenization was ensured for 3 minutes. 228.5 g of de- water was added.
[0316]
[0317]
[0318]
[0319] mineralized and homogenized for 3 minutes. Finally, 40.5 g of 2-phenoxyethanol was added as a biocide and homogenized for 3 minutes. A stable oil-in-water emulsion with a D50 particle size of 170 nm was obtained. Example 2: The following composition A according to the invention and comparative compositions B and C were prepared from the ingredients indicated in Table 1 below (% by weight of active material - MA). [Table 1] Table 1: Ingredients A (Invention) B (Comparative) C (Comparative) Dimethicone (and) Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-10 (and) PEG-100 Stearate (and) Steareth-6 (and) Trideceth-3 (of Example 1) 2% emulsion (i.e. 0.2% AM Amodimethicone + 0.8% AM Dimethicone) 2% emulsion (i.e. 0.2% AM Amodimethicone + 0.8% AM Dimethicone) 2% emulsion (i.e. 0.2% AM Amodimethicone + 0.8% AM Dimethicone) Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimoniu m chloride 0.3 - 0.3 Bis-(isostearoyl / oleoyl-sopropyl) dimonium methosulfate 1 1 - Cetearyl Alcohol 1 1 1 Sodium Laureth Sulfate 13.9 13.9 13.9 Coco-betaine and Cocamidopropyl Betaine 1.8 1.8 1.8 Carbomer 0.2 0.2 0.2 Glycerin 0.5 0.5 0.5 Hexylene Glycol 0.5 0.5 0.5 Glycol Distearate 1.6 1.6 1.6 Sodium Chloride 0.35 0.35 0.35 Preservatives Qs Qs Qs Water Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100
[0320] Protocol:
[0321] The hair strands were shampooed, rinsed with water and placed on a heating plate (30°C).
[0322] Then, 1.2 g of compositions A, B or C were applied respectively to a lock of hair (3 g, 20 cm, moderately bleached hair, from roots to ends). The locks were gently massaged by passing each lock approximately six times between two fingers for fifteen seconds, from roots to ends (without creating knots) so as to lather the compositions.
[0323] The strands were then rinsed with tap water and the fingers were run through the hair fifteen times for ten seconds.
[0324] Finally, each strand was passed between two fingers to remove excess water (2 passes).
[0325] Each strand of wet hair was placed on a combing machine (Diastron MTT 175 from Dia-Stron Limited UK) and a comb with a sensor was placed in the hair fibers.
[0326] Combing was performed by sweeping the strand from root to tip and recording the force required to move the comb along the strand.
[0327] 3 strands of hair were treated with each composition A, B or C, and the force measurements were carried out 5 times per strand of hair treated.
[0328] In total, measurements were carried out 15 times per test composition.
[0329] The average maximum force was calculated from the 15 measured data of the 3 strands of hair treated with each composition. The average maximum force in gram-force (gf) was calculated: 1 gf corresponds to approximately 0.0098 Newton.
[0330] The lower the force, the easier it is to comb / untangle the keratinous fibers.
[0331] The same protocol was repeated with the same strands, once completely dry.
[0332] Test conditions: 23°C, 54% humidity
[0333] Combing speed = 1500 mm / minute
[0334] The results are shown in Tables 2 (dry combing) and 3 (wet combing) below.
[0335] [Table 2]
[0336] Table 2: Dry combing (average value of the 15 measurements) Compositions Maximum forces (in gf) A 43.5 ± 6.2 (Invention) B (Comparative) 54.1 ± 6.2 C (Comparative) 87.2+13.8
[0337] [Table 3]
[0338] Table 3: Wet combing (average value of the 15 measurements) Compositions Maximum forces (in gf) A (Invention) 96.5 + 8.3 B (Comparative) 123.3 + 8.3 C (Comparative) 126.1 + 11.2
[0339] It is observed that the locks of hair treated with composition A according to the invention comprising the combination of a cationic polysaccharide with a cationic surfactant are much easier to comb (in wet and dry conditions), compared to the locks of hair treated with comparative compositions B and C which do not comprise the combination of a cationic polysaccharide with a cationic surfactant.
[0340] These tests demonstrate the effect on hair detangling of the specific combination of a cationic polysaccharide with a cationic surfactant.
[0341] Furthermore, it was noted that the locks of hair treated with composition A according to the invention are smoother, softer, with less frizz and easier to style than the locks of hair treated with comparative compositions B and C.
Claims
Claims
1. A composition comprising: a) an oil-in-water emulsion having a D50 particle size of less than 350 nm and comprising: - a silicone blend comprising (i) a trialkylsilyl-terminated dialkylpolysiloxane having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg KOH per gram of amino silicone, - an emulsifier blend comprising one or more non-ionic emulsifiers, wherein the emulsifier blend has an HLB value of 10 to 16, and - water; b) at least one cationic polysaccharide; c) at least one cationic surfactant and d) at least one solid fatty alcohol.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein said trialkylsilyl-terminated dialkylpolysiloxane (i) is of formula (A): R'3SiO(R'2SiO)pSiR'3 (A) in which: - R', identical or different, are a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and - p is an integer from 500 to 2,000, preferably from 1,000 to 2,000; and preferably is a trimethylsilyl-terminated PDMS.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the amino silicone (ii) is of formula (B): XR2Si(OSiAR)n(OSiR2)mOSiR2X (B) in which: - R, identical or different, are a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, - X, identical or different, are R or a hydroxyl (OH) or C1-C6 alkoxy group; preferably X is R, - A is an amino radical of formula -R*-[NR2-R3-]XNR22, or the protonated amino forms of said amino radical, in which R1 is a C1-C6 alkylene radical, preferably a radical of formula -CH2CH2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; R2, identical or different, are a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, preferably a hydrogen atom; R3 is a C1-C6 alkylene radical, preferably a radical of formula -CH2CH2-, and x is 0 or 1; and - m + n is an integer from 50 to about 1000, preferably from 50 to 600; preferably A is an amino radical of formula -R'-[NR2-R3-]XNR22, or the protonated amino forms of said amino radical, in which R1 is --CH2CH2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, R2 are hydrogen atoms, R3 is -CH2CH2-, and x is 1.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the cationic polysaccharide(s) b) is (are) chosen from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, modified or unmodified guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and mixtures thereof; and even better from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the cationic surfactant(s) c) is (are) chosen from those of formula (C) below: CH3 0 <C) H C / CH—CH-O-C-R1 / N+ H-C \ CHr“CH“O“C-R2 X- 2 ! Il CH„ O dans laquelle : - RI et R2 sont indépendamment une fraction hydrocarbonée saturée ou insaturée comprenant 11 à 23 atomes de carbone ; - X est un anion choisi dans le groupe des halogénures, phosphates, acétates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates ou (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, de préférence méthosulfate.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total amount of cationic surfactant(s) c) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight. weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the solid fatty alcohol(s) d) contains from 8 to 40, in particular from 10 to 30, more particularly from 12 to 24, better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms; they are more preferably saturated and linear solid fatty alcohols; more preferably saturated and linear solid fatty monoalcohols and, better still, they are chosen from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one anionic surfactant, preferably chosen from anionic surfactants of alkyl(ether) sulfate type; preferably from C12-C14 alkyl(ether) sulfate salts; even better from lauryl ether sulfate salts.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant; preferably chosen from (C8-C2oalkyl)betaines, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines and mixtures thereof.
10. A method of treating keratinous fibers, preferably washing and / or revitalizing keratinous fibers, comprising at least the application to the keratinous fibers of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9.
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