COMPOSITION COMPRISING A SPECIAL SILICONE EMULSION, A CATIONIC POLYSACCHARIDE, A SOLID FATTY ALCOHOL AND A CATIONIC SURFACTANT
The composition addresses the damage caused by aggressive detergents by using a specific oil-in-water silicone emulsion with cationic polysaccharides and surfactants, enhancing hair feel and detangling, and improving styling ease.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024000831
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-01-29
- Publication Date
- 2026-02-13
- Estimated Expiration
- 2034-01-29
AI Technical Summary
Existing detergent compositions for keratinous fibers, such as shampoos, cause damage to hair due to their aggressive nature, leading to issues like frizz, poor cosmetic properties, and difficulty in detangling, despite the use of conditioners like cationic polymers and silicones.
A composition comprising an oil-in-water silicone emulsion with specific silicone mixtures, cationic polysaccharides, cationic surfactants, and solid fatty alcohols, which improves hair feel, reduces frizz, and enhances detangling and styling ease.
The composition provides improved hair condition and quality, making hair easier to detangle and style, while maintaining cleanliness and lightness, with long-lasting benefits.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING A PARTICULAR SILICONE EMULSION, A CATIONIC POLYSACCHARIDE, A SOLID FATTY ALCOHOL AND A CATIONIC SURFACTANT
[0001] The present invention relates to a keratin fiber treatment composition and, in particular, human keratin fibers such as hair, which comprises a specific oil-in-water silicone emulsion, at least one cationic polysaccharide, at least one fatty alcohol and at least one cationic surfactant.
[0002] The invention also relates to a process for treating keratinous fibers, preferably for washing and / or revitalizing keratinous fibers, comprising applying a composition according to the invention to the keratinous fibers.
[0003] It is common to use detergent cosmetic compositions, such as shampoos and shower gels, essentially based on surfactants, to wash keratinous materials, such as, in particular, hair and skin. These compositions are applied to the keratinous materials, which are preferably wet, and the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands or a washcloth allows, after rinsing with water, the removal of the various types of dirt initially present on the hair or skin.
[0004] These compositions contain significant levels of "detergent" surfactants which, in order to formulate cosmetic compositions with good cleansing power, must in particular give them good foaming power.
[0005] Surfactants useful for this purpose are generally of anionic, non-ionic and / or amphoteric type and, in particular, of the anionic type.
[0006] These compositions generally have good cleansing power, but the intrinsic cosmetic properties associated with them remain quite poor, in particular because the relatively aggressive nature of such a cleansing treatment can, in the long term, lead to more or less pronounced damage to the hair fiber, this damage being associated in particular with the progressive elimination of lipids or proteins contained in or on the surface of this fiber.
[0007] Thus, in order to improve the cosmetic properties of the above detergent compositions and, more particularly, those which are to be applied to sensitized hair (i.e. hair which has been damaged or weakened, in particular under the chemical action of atmospheric agents and / or hair treatments such as perming, dyeing or bleaching), it is now common to introduce additional cosmetic agents called conditioners into these compositions. These conditioners are primarily intended to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects caused by the various treatments or aggressions to which hair fibers are subjected more or less repeatedly. They can, of course, also improve the cosmetic appearance of natural hair.
[0008] The most commonly used conditioners in shampoos to date include cationic polymers, silicones and / or silicone derivatives, which provide a softness and smoothness that are significantly better than those that can be obtained with corresponding cleansing compositions in which they are absent.
[0009] The use of a mixture of silicone and cationic polymer is particularly well known. However, compositions containing them still have many drawbacks, such as insufficient silicone deposition on the hair and therefore a significant impact on its cosmetic properties and, more specifically, with regard to detangling wet or dry hair.
[0010] There is therefore a real need to offer compositions, such as cosmetic and / or revitalizing compositions of keratin fibers and, in particular, human keratin fibers, that overcome the drawbacks described above, namely, that effectively remove dirt and excess sebum, are particularly suitable for damaged hair, reduce frizz, and improve the cosmetic properties of said fibers, such as softness, smooth texture, ease of styling, and especially ease of detangling and combing. These cosmetic properties can also be long-lasting.
[0011] These objectives are achieved with the present invention, one subject of which is a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising:
[0012] a) an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 less than 350 nm and comprising:
[0013] - a silicone mixture comprising (i) a trial-terminated dialkylpolysiloxane (ii) a kylsilyl having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25 °C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25 °C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone,
[0014] - a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more non-ionic emulsifiers, in which the emulsifier mixture has an HLB value of 10 to 16, and
[0015] - water;
[0016] b) at least one cationic polysaccharide;
[0017] c) at least one cationic surfactant and
[0018] d) at least one solid fatty alcohol, preferably containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms.
[0019] It has been noted that the composition according to the invention, when applied to keratinous fibers, in particular to human keratinous fibers such as hair, leads to an improvement in the condition and quality of the hair, in terms of hair feel (e.g., smooth feel, soft feel, revitalized feel, non-greasy, non-loaded) and ease of styling (e.g., combing, detangling, desirable volume, suppleness, less frizz).
[0020] In particular, it has been observed that keratinous fibers, especially hair (wet or dry), treated with the composition according to the invention are easier to detangle and easier to style.
[0021] In addition, the composition according to the invention has good detergent power and keratinous fibers, in particular hair, treated with the composition according to the invention are particularly clean and light.
[0022] The observed properties of the composition according to the invention are particularly durable.
[0023] The present invention also relates to a method for treating keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair, preferably for washing and / or revitalizing keratinous fibers, comprising applying a composition according to the invention to the keratinous fibers.
[0024] Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and example that follows.
[0025] In this description, and unless otherwise indicated:
[0026] - the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be replaced by this one;
[0027] - the expression "between" is equivalent to the expression "ranging from" and can be replaced by this one, and implies that the limits are included;
[0028] - for the purposes of the present invention, the expression "greater than" and respectively The expression "less than" is meant to mean an open range which is strictly greater than, respectively strictly less than, and therefore the limits are not included;
[0029] - According to this application, the expression "keratinous fibers" refers to preference for human keratinous fibers such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and body hair, preferably hair, eyebrows and eyelashes, even more preferably, hair;
[0030] - for the purposes of the present invention, the term "hair" refers to the hairs covering The scalp. This term does not refer to body hair other than that of the scalp, eyebrows, or eyelashes.
[0031] - for the purposes of the present invention, the expression "fatty substance" is intended to designate a non-oxyalkylated organic compound, which is insoluble in water at 30 °C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e., 1.013 x 10⁵ Pa), meaning that it has a solubility in water less than or equal to 5% (g of compound per mL of water) and, preferably, less than or equal to 1%, even more preferably less than or equal to 0.1%. For example, fatty acids and fatty alcohols are, within the meaning of the present invention, fatty substances. The specific oil-in-water emulsion
[0032] The composition according to the present invention comprises an oil-in-water (or silicone-in-water) emulsion having a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm and containing:
[0033] - a silicone mixture comprising (i) a trial-terminated dialkylpolysiloxane (ii) a kylsilyl having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25 °C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25 °C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone,
[0034] - a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more non-ionic emulsifiers, in which the mixture of emulsifiers has an HLB value of 10 to 16, and
[0035] - water.
[0036] In oil-in-water emulsion, or silicone-in-water emulsion, one liquid phase (the dispersed phase) is dispersed in the other liquid phase (the continuous phase); in the present invention, the silicone mixture, or silicone phase, is dispersed in the continuous aqueous phase.
[0037] fi) trialkylpolysiloxanes terminated by trialkylsilyl
[0038] The silicone mixture comprises a trialkylpolysiloxane terminated by trialkylsilyl, preferably of formula (A):
[0039] R'3SiO(R'2SiO)pSiR'3 (A)
[0040] in which:
[0041] - R', identical or different, are a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, more preferably methyl, and
[0042] - p is an integer from 500 to 2000, preferably from 1000 to 2000;
[0043] The trialkylpolysiloxanes terminated by trialkylsilyl (or with blocked end or in a,co position) according to the invention have a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s (100,000 excluded) at 25 °C, preferably a viscosity of 40,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25 °C, more preferably a viscosity of 51,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25 °C.
[0044] The trialkylpolysiloxanes terminated by trialkylsilyl according to the invention are preferably linear but may contain in addition to R'2SiO2 / 2 motifs (D motifs) in formula (A), RSiO3 / 2 motifs (T motifs) and / or SiO4 / 2 motifs (Q motifs), in which R', identical or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0045] Preferably, R', identical or different, are alkyl radicals, preferably Ci-Ci8 alkyl radicals, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl and tert-pentyl radicals, hexyl radicals, such as the n-hexyl radical, heptyl radicals, such as the n-heptyl radical, octyl radicals, such as the n-octyl radical and isooctyl radicals, such as the 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl radical, nonyl radicals, such as n-nonyl radicals, decyl radicals, such as the n-decyl radical, dodecyl radicals, such as the n-dodecyl radical, and octadecyl radicals, such as the n-octadecyl radical; alkenyl radicals, such as the vinyl radical and the allyl radical; cycloalkyl radicals, such as the cycloopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, and methylcyclohexyl radicals;Aryl radicals, such as phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl, and phenanthryl radicals; alkaryl radicals, such as o-, m-, and p-tolyl radicals, xylyl radicals, and ethylphenyl radicals; and aralkyl radicals, such as the benzyl radical and the α- and β-phenylethyl radicals. The methyl radical is preferred above all.
[0046] Preferably, trialkylsiloxanes terminated by trialkylsilyl are PDMS (polydimethylsiloxanes or dimethicones) terminated by trimethylsilyl.
[0047] fii) amino silicones
[0048] The silicone mixture comprises an amino silicone which preferably has formula (B):
[0049] XR2Si(OSiAR)n(OSiR2)mOSiR2X (B)
[0050] in which:
[0051] - R, identical or different, are a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, better from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or even better from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and even better a methyl;
[0052] - X, identical or different, are R or a hydroxyl group (OH) or an alkoxy in C rC6; preferably X is R, namely a monovalent hydrocarbon radical comprising from 1 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, better from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or even better from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and even better a methyl;
[0053] - A is an amino radical of formula -R*-[NR2-R3-]XNR22, or amino forms protonated of said amino radical, in which R1 is a Ci-C6 alkylene radical, preferably a radical of formula -CH2CH2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, R2, identical or different, are a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, preferably a hydrogen atom, R3 is a Ci-C6 alkylene radical, preferably a radical of formula -CH2CH2- and x is 0 or 1;
[0054] and
[0055] - m + n is an integer from 50 to about 1000, preferably from 50 to 600.
[0056] Preferably, A is an amino radical of formula -R1-[NR2-R3-]xNR22, or the amino protonated forms of said amino radical, in which R1 is -CH2CH2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, R2 are hydrogen atoms, R3 is -CH2CH2- and x is 1.
[0057] Preferably, R, whether identical or different, are alkyl radicals, preferably CrC28 alkyl radicals, more preferably CrCi8 alkyl radicals such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl and tert-pentyl radicals, hexyl radicals, such as the n-hexyl radical, heptyl radicals, such as the n-heptyl radical, octyl radicals such as the n-octyl radical and isooctyl radicals such as the 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl radical, nonyl radicals such as n-nonyl radicals, decyl radicals, such as the n-decyl radical, dodecyl radicals, such as the n-dodecyl radical, and octadecyl radicals, such as the n-Octadecyl; alkenyl radicals such as the vinyl and allyl radicals; cycloalkyl radicals, such as the cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl and methylcyclohexyl radicals;Aryl radicals, such as the phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl, and phenanthryl radicals; alkaryl radicals, such as the o-, m-, and p-tolyl radicals, the xylyl radicals, and the ethylphenyl radicals; and aralkyl radicals such as the benzyl radical and the α- and β-phenylethyl radicals. The methyl radical is preferred above all.
[0058] The amino silicones according to the invention have a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25 °C, preferably of 1,500 to 15,000 mPa.s.
[0059] The amino silicones according to the invention have an amine index of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, preferably of 3.5 to 8 mg.
[0060] The molar percentage of amine functionality is preferably in the range of about 0.3% to about 8%.
[0061] Examples of amino silicones useful in the silicone blend according to the invention include a trialkylsilyl-terminated amino silicone.
[0062] Preferably, amino silicones are trimethylsiloxane-terminated copolymers of aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane, or preferably, trimethylsilyl-dimethylsiloxane-terminated copolymers of aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane. The amino radical A can be partially or totally protonated by adding acids to the amino silicone, thereby obtaining the salt forms of the amino radical. Examples of acids are carboxylic acids having 3 to 18 carbon atoms, which can be linear or branched, such as formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, pivalic acid, sorbic acid, benzoic acid, and salicylic acid. The acids are preferably used in amounts of 0.1 to 2.0 moles per mole of amino radical A in the amino silicone of formula (B).
[0063] The silicone mixture preferably comprises (i) one or more trialkylpolysiloxanes terminated with trialkylsilyl having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25 °C in an amount of 70 to 90% by weight, preferably 75 to 85% by weight and (ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25 °C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, in an amount of 10 to 30% by weight, preferably 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture, emulsifier mixture
[0064] The oil-in-water emulsion further comprises a mixture of emulsifiers including one or more non-ionic emulsifiers. It may optionally include one or more cationic surfactants.
[0065] The emulsifier mixture has an HLB value of 10 to 16.
[0066] Non-ionic emulsifiers can be chosen from the non-ionic surfactants described below.
[0067] Reference may be made to alcohols, a-diols and alkylphenols (in C1-20), these compounds being polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30; or alternatively to compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular, from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0068] Reference may also be made to ethylene oxide and propylene oxide condensates with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having 2 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, polyglycerol fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5, and in particular 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters preferably containing 2 to 40 ethylene oxide motifs, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylated and preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters containing 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C6 24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10.14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
[0069] We can also mention non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented in particular by the following general formula:
[0070] R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v
[0071] in which:
[0072] - Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an al-kylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 atoms of carbon and, in particular, 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
[0073] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
[0074] - G represents a sugar motif comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
[0075] -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4,
[0076] - v designates a value from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4.
[0077] Preferably, alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds having the formula described above in which:
[0078] - Ri designates a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical, comprising 8 with 18 carbon atoms,
[0079] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
[0080] -1 denotes a number from 0 to 3, and preferably equal to 0,
[0081] - G designates glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;
[0082] - the degree of polymerization, namely the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.
[0083] The glucoside linkages between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C8 / Ci6 1,4 alkyl(poly)glycosides, and in particular decyl glucosides and caprylyl / caprylyl glucosides, are most particularly preferred.
[0084] Among the commercial products, we can mention the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, or the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK.
[0085] Non-ionic emulsifiers could preferably be chosen from ethoxylated aliphatic alcohols, polyoxyethylenated surfactants, carboxylic esters, polyethylene glycol esters, a sorbitol ester and their ethoxylated derivatives, fatty acid glycol esters, carboxylic amides, monoalkanolamine condensates, polyoxyethylenated fatty acid amides.
[0086] Preferably, non-ionic emulsifiers are chosen from:
[0087] (i) polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers, in particular fatty (poly)ethoxylated alcohols of formula:
[0088] R3-(OCH2CH2)cOH
[0089] with:
[0090] - R3 representing a linear or branched C8-C40 alkyl or alkenyl group, of preferably an alkyl or alkenyl group at C8-C30, optionally substituted with a or several hydroxyl groups, and
[0091] - c being an integer between 1 and 200 inclusive, preferably between 2 and 150 and more particularly between 4 and 50, most preferably between 8 and 20.
[0092] Fatty (poly)ethoxylated alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, oxygenated with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 EO);
[0093] (ii) polyoxyalkylene (C8-C32)alkylphenyl ethers,
[0094] (iii) polyoxyalkylated sorbitan fatty acid esters (C8-C32), in particular polyethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters containing preferably from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, most preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; preferably polyoxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters (C10-C24) containing preferably from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, most preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; and
[0095] (iv) polyoxyethylenated (C8-C32) fatty acid esters containing, for example, 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide; preferably polyoxyethylenated (C10-C24) fatty acid esters containing, for example, 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide.
[0096] Preferably, the non-ionic emulsifiers could be chosen from an alkyl ether of polyalkylene glycol and alkyl esters of polyalkylene glycol; preferably of polyethylene glycol (PEG).
[0097] Some useful emulsifiers are:
[0098] - polyethylene glycol octyl ether; polyethylene glycol lauryl ether; polyethylene neglycol tridecyl ether; polyethylene glycol cetyl ether; polyethylene glycol stearyl ether; among the latter, trideceth-3, trideceth-10 and steareth-6 can be mentioned in particular.
[0099] - polyethylene glycol nonylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol dodecylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol cetylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol stearylphenyl ether;
[0100] - polyethylene glycol monostearate, sorbitan, polyethylene glycol monooleate sorbitan.
[0101] - polyethylene glycol stearate, and in particular PEG-100 stearate.
[0102] Most preferably, the non-ionic emulsifiers are chosen from steareth-6, PEG-100 stearate, trideceth-3 and trideceth-10 and their mixture; preferably, all these emulsifiers are present in the emulsifier mixture.
[0103] The emulsifier mixture could include one or more cationic emulsifiers that could be selected from tetraalkylammonium halides, tetraarylammonium halides, tetraalkylarylammonium halides and their salts; quaternary ammonium compounds, including salts; preferably, the cationic emulsifiers could be selected from cetrimonium halides or behentrimonium halides, such as chloride.
[0104] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the mixture of emulsifiers in a total quantity of 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 8 to 15% by weight, most preferably 10 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
[0105] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises non-ionic emulsifiers in a total quantity of 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 8 to 15% by weight, most preferably 10 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
[0106] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises cationic emulsifiers, where appropriate, in a total amount of 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
[0107] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the silicone mixture in a total quantity of 40 to 60% by weight, more preferably 45 to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
[0108] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the trialkylpolysiloxane(s) terminated by trialkylsilyl in a total amount of 35 to 45% by weight, more preferably 38 to 42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
[0109] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the amino silicone(s) in a total quantity of 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 8 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
[0110] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises water in an amount of 25 to 50% by weight, more preferably 30 to 45% by weight, most preferably 35 to 42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
[0111] The oil-in-water emulsion could, in addition, comprise a biocide, such as phenoxyethanol, which could be present in the emulsion in an amount of 0.5 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
[0112] A process for preparing the oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises:
[0113] - a step of mixing one or more trial-terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes kylsilyl with a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa·s at 25 °C and one or more amino silicones with a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa·s at 25 °C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, at a temperature of 15 °C to 40 °C, preferably at 25 °C, to obtain a mixed silicone fluid, then
[0114] - a step of adding a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more emulsifiers non-ionic emulsifiers, in which the emulsifier mixture has an HLB value of 10 to 16, to the mixed silicone fluid to obtain a silicone-emulsifier mixture, then
[0115] - a homogenization step of the silicone-emulsifier mixture followed by
[0116] - a step of adding, preferably in stages, water, preferably half-water neralized, to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 less than 350 nm.
[0117] The process for preparing the oil-in-water emulsion could further include a step of adding a biocide. A biocide could be added to protect the emulsion against microbial contamination. The amount of biocide depends on the type of biocide and the manufacturer's recommendations.
[0118] The preparation of the emulsifier mixture could be carried out by mixing one or more non-ionic emulsifiers.
[0119] The pH of the oil-in-water emulsion after neutralization (i.e., after adding the biocide) is preferably 4 to 6.
[0120] The oil-in-water emulsion has a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm, preferably from 100 nm to 300 nm, more preferably from 150 nm to 250 nm, even more preferably from 150 nm to 225 nm, and most preferably from 160 nm to 200 nm. It corresponds to the mean hydrodynamic diameter of the particles. The particle size D50 is expressed in volume. The particle size D50 could be measured using a ZetaSizer instrument from Malvern, UK, model Nano-ZS, which is based on the photon correlation spectroscopy (PCS) method. Particle size measurement
[0121] The particle size of an emulsion could be measured using a ZetaSizer instrument from Malvern, UK, model Nano-ZS, based on the photon correlation spectroscopy (PCS) method. The D50 value of the particle size (average hydrodynamic diameter of the particles) is measured, the evaluation algorithm being "cumulant analysis".
[0122] For example, 0.5 g of the emulsion sample is placed in a 250 mL beaker, 100 mL of demineralized water is added, and the two are thoroughly mixed to obtain the sample test solution. The sample test solution is then poured into the cuvette cell and placed in the slit of the instrument to measure the particle size of the emulsion. D50 is defined as the particle diameter value at 50% in the cumulative distribution. For example, if D50 = 170 nm, then 50% of the particles in the sample are larger than 170 nm and 50% are smaller than 170 nm, or approximately 50% by volume of all the droplets in the emulsion are 170 nm. Viscosity measurement
[0123] Viscosity, in particular of silicones or emulsion, is measured at 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa).
[0124] For viscosities between 1000 and 40,000 mPa.s at 25 °C: the viscosity could be measured using an Anton Paar rheometer; model MCR101, single air gap cylinder geometry: CC27 spindle and shear rate of 1 s 1 for 2 minutes, at 25 °C.
[0125] For viscosities between 40,000 and 100,000 mPa.s at 25 °C: the viscosity could be measured using an Anton Paar rheometer; model MCR101, cone 25-6 (cone-plane geometry: 25 mm dia. / cone 6°); the "zero air gap" setting being made and with a shear rate of 1 s 1 for 2 minutes, at 25 °C.
[0126] Three measurements are taken for each sample and the viscosity value is taken at 60 seconds. The products in the MCR Rheometer range operate in accordance with USP (US Pharmacopeia Convention) 912 - Rotary Rheometer Methods. Amine index measurement
[0127] The amine value is determined by acid-base titration using a potentiometer [Brand: Veego; Model: VPT-MG]. 0.6 g of sample is taken into a 500 mL beaker, and a 1:1 toluene-butanol mixture is added and stirred to thoroughly mix the sample; the sample solution is then titrated with 0.1 N HCl solution. A blank value determination with the 1:1 toluene-butanol mixture is also performed. The amine value is calculated using the aforementioned potentiometer.
[0128] The amine index is calculated according to the formula:
[0129] 56.11 x (V - VBianc) x N / W mg KOH / g of sample,
[0130] in which
[0131] - V = volume of HCl required in ml, Vbianc = volume of HCl for blank value (without sample) with the 1:1 toluene-butanol mixture in ml; N = Normality of HCl, namely 0.1 N, W = weight of the sample taken in grams. HLB value
[0132] The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and designates the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant or emulsifier. In the present invention, HLB values refer to values at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure.
[0133] The HLB can be measured by experimental determination or can be calculated.
[0134] The calculation of the HLB value of a non-ionic surfactant is done according to the following equation: HLB = (E + P) / 5, E being the percentage by weight of the oxyethylene content and P being the percentage by weight of the polyhydric alcohol content, described in the publication Griffin, J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (vol.5, no.4), pages 249-256.
[0135] It can also be determined experimentally according to the book by F. Puisieux and Mr. Seiller entitled "Galenica 5: Dispersed Systems - Volume I - Surface Agents and Emulsions - Chapter IV - Concepts of HLB and Critical HLB, pages 153-194 - paragraph 1.1.2. Experimental Determination of HLB, pages 164-180".
[0136] The calculated HLB corresponds to the preferred HLB values which must be taken into account.
[0137] Said calculated HLB could be defined as follows:
[0138] “Calculated HLB = 20 x molar mass of the hydrophilic part / total molar mass.”
[0139] For an oxyethylenated fatty alcohol, the hydrophilic part corresponds to the oxyethylene motifs condensed on the fatty alcohol and the "calculated HLB" then corresponds to the "Griffin HLB" as defined above.
[0140] For an ester or an amide, the hydrophilic part is naturally defined as being located beyond the carbonyl group, starting with the fatty chain(s).
[0141] For ionic surfactants / emulsifiers, the HLB value of each individual surfactant / emulsifier can be calculated by applying Davies' formula as described in Davies JT (1957), "A quantitative kinetic theory of emulsion type, I. Physical chemistry of the emulsifying agent", Gas / Liquid and Liquid / Liquid Interface (Proceedings of the International Congress on Surface Activity): 426-438.
[0142] According to the formula, the HLB is derived by summing the hydrophilic / hydrophobic contribution offered by the structural components of the emulsifier:
[0143] HLB = (number of hydrophilic groups) - n(number of groups per CH2 group) + 7.
[0144] Approximate HLB values for some cationic emulsifiers are given in Table IV, in "Cationic emulsifiers in cosmetics", GODFREY, J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists (1966) 17, pages 17-27.
[0145] When two emulsifiers A and B of known HLB are mixed for use, the HLB mixture is said to be the HLB required for the mixture. This is expressed by the equation (WAHLBA + WbHLBb) / (Wa + WB) = HLB mixture, where WA = the quantity (weight) of the first emulsifier (A) used and WB = the quantity (weight) of the second emulsifier (B); HLBa, HLBb = the HLB values assigned to emulsifiers A and B; HLB mixture = the HLB of the mixture.
[0146] Said oil-in-water emulsion is described for example in document WO 2017 / 108824.
[0147] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the oil-in-water emulsion a) in an amount from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 12% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better from 0.5% to 8%, or even better from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0148] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises trialkylpolysiloxane(s) terminated by trialkylsilyl having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25 °C in a total amount of 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 5% by weight, even more preferably 0.5% to 4% by weight, better 0.7% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0149] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises amino silicone(s) having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25 °C and an amine index of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, in a total quantity of 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 3% by weight, even more preferably 0.1% to 2% by weight, better 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic polysaccharides
[0150] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic polysaccharide.
[0151] According to the present invention, the term "cationic polysaccharide" means any polysaccharide comprising cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups, and not comprising anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
[0152] These cationic polysaccharides according to the invention are non-silicone cationic polysaccharides. In other words, the cationic polysaccharides according to the invention do not contain any silicon (Si) atoms.
[0153] Among the cationic polysaccharides that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and cationic galactomannan gums.
[0154] Cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in French patent 1,492,597, and examples include polymers sold under the name UCARE POLYMER “JR” (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400 or LR 30M) by Dow Chemical. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium compounds of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group. Polyquatemium-10 is, for example, one such polymer.
[0155] Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described, in particular, in US patent 4,131,576, and examples include hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance, hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, or hydroxypropyl-celluloses grafted, in particular, with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium. Commercial products cor Products that meet this definition are more specifically the products sold under the names CELQUAT L 200 and CELQUAT H 100 by the company National Starch.
[0156] Cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, preferably Ci-C6 trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium (e.g., the chloride) may be used. Such products are notably sold under the names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17, and JAGUAR C162 by the Rhodia company.
[0157] Preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) is / are chosen from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums and mixtures thereof; more preferably from cationic galactomannan gums.
[0158] Preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) is / are chosen from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, modified or unmodified guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and mixtures thereof; more preferably from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups.
[0159] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydroxypropylguar hydroxypropyltrimonium salt and / or at least one guar hydroxypropyltrimonium salt, in particular at least one hydroxypropylguar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and / or at least one guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
[0160] Preferably, the total amount of cationic polysaccharide(s) ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.015% to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.02% to 3% by weight, better from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0161] Preferably, the total amount of cationic galactomannan gum(s) ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.015% to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.02% to 3% by weight, better from 0.05% to 2% by weight and, better still, from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0162] Preferably, the total amount of guar gum(s) comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.015% to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.02% to 3% by weight, better from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0163] Preferably, the total amount of hydroxypropylguar hydroxypropyltrimonium salt(s), guar hydroxypropyltrimonium salt(s), or a mixture thereof, ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.015% to 4% by weight, and even more Preferably from 0.02% to 3% by weight, better from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic surfactants
[0164] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant.
[0165] According to the invention, cationic surfactants c) are different from cationic polysaccharides b).
[0166] Cationic surfactants can be selected from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts optionally polyoxyalkylated, quaternary ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.
[0167] Quaternary ammonium salts include, in particular:
[0168] - quaternary ammonium salts of formula (la):
[0169] in which: • the R8 to Ru groups, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the R8 to Ru groups comprising from 8 to 30 and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, the aliphatic groups possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens; and • X is an anion chosen in particular from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates or (CrC4)alkylarylsulfonates;
[0170] The aliphatic groups R8 to Ru can be selected from the following: alkyl groups in Ci-C30, alkoxy groups in CrC3o, polyoxyalkylene groups in C2-C6, alkylamide groups in CrC3o, alkylamido groups in Ci2-C22-alkyl groups in C2-C6, alkyl acetate groups in Ci2-C22 and hydroxyalkyl groups in Ci-C30.
[0171] Special mention may be made of tetraalkylammonium halides, especially chlorides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride.
[0172] Other examples include palmitlamidopropyltrimethylammonium or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristyle acetate)-ammonium halides, and especially chlorides; especially the product sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the Van company Dyk.
[0173] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline of formula (lia): A .......co.......H-1 x '1 * (linked \___________ / R w |
[0174] in which • Rn represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, • Rn represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C4 alkyl group, or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, • Ru represents an alkyl group in Ci-C4, • R15 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group in CrC4, • X is an anion specially chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (CrC4)alkyl sulfates, and (CrC4)alkylsulfonates or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates;
[0175] Preferably, Rn and Rn denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl group and R[5 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 or W90 by the company Evonik.
[0176] - quaternary di- or triammonium salts of formula (Ilia): R^ R, g 1 ...............N—R S1 | 2X' ,
[0177] in which: • Rie denotes an alkyl group comprising 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, • Rn denotes hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a -(CH2)3-N+(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a) group; Ri6a, Rna, and Rj8a, which may be identical or different, denote hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, • Ris, R19, and R2i, which may be identical or different, denote hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms and • X is a union, specially chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates and (CrC4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
[0178] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, (Quaternium 75), sold by the Finetex company;
[0179] - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, of formula (IVa) below: —R» o 'r R2r-~c+Qc,H^OH);^ —o™trR23 x W FU
[0180] in which: • R22 is chosen from among the Ci-C6 alkyl groups and the hydroxyalkyl groups or dihydroxyalkyl in C1-C6, • R23 is chosen from the R26-C(=O)- group; the hydrocarbon groups Ci-C22 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated R27; and a hydrogen atom, • R25 is chosen from the R28-C(=O)- group; the hydrocarbon groups Ci-C6 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated R29; and a hydrogen atom, • R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from among the linear or branched hydrocarbon groups, saturated or unsaturated in C7 to C2i, • r, s and t, which can be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6, • rl and tl, which can be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, • y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10, • x and z, which can be the same or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10, • X is an anion,
[0181] it being understood that r2+ rl= 2r and tl+ t2= 2t, and that the sum of x + y + z goes from 1 to 15,
[0182] provided that, when x = 0, R23 denotes R27 and that when z is equal to 0, R25 designates R29.
[0183] The alkyl groups in R22 may be linear or branched, preferably linear. Preferably, R22 designates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and, more particularly, a methyl or ethyl group.
[0184] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.
[0185] When R23 is an R27 hydrocarbon group, it may comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or otherwise it may comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0186] When R25 is a hydrocarbon group R29, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0187] Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C2i hydrocarbon groups and, more particularly, from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C2p alkyl and alkenyl groups
[0188] Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
[0189] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
[0190] Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly equal to 2.
[0191] Anion X is preferably a halide, preferably a chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, a (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonate or a (CrC4)alkylarylsulfonate, a methanesulfonate, a phosphate, a nitrate, a tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate, or any other ammonium-compatible anion bearing an ester function. Anion X is more particularly a chloride, a methyl sulfate, or an ethyl sulfate.
[0192] In particular, the composition according to the invention makes use of ammonium salts of formula (IVa) in which: • R22 designates a methyl or ethyl group, • x and y are equal to 1, • z is equal to 0 or 1, • r, s and t are equal to 2, • R23 is chosen from the R26-C(=O)- group; the methyl, ethyl or hy groups drocarbons in C[4-C22, and a hydrogen atom, • R25 is chosen from the R28-C(=O)- group; and a hydrogen atom, • R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from among the linear or branched hydrocarbon groups, saturated or unsaturated in Cn to Cp and, preferably, among linear or branched alkyl and alkenyl groups, saturated or unsaturated in Cn to Ci7.
[0193] Advantageously, hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.
[0194] In another embodiment, ammonium salts of formula (IVa) are also more particularly used in the composition according to the invention, in which: R22= R25= methyl, R23 is R26-C(=O)-, R24 and R26 = C7-C2i hydrocarbon-based groups, and x = y =1, z = 0 and t = r = 3, t2= r2=6, l|= ri= 0.
[0195] Among the compounds of formula (IVa), mention may be made of salts, especially chloride or methyl sulfate of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxy-ethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethyl-ethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or Sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
[0196] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylated, with fatty acids or with specially prepared mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification may be followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin. These compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by Henkel, Stepanquat® by Stepan, Noxamium® by CECA or Rewoquat® WE 18 by Evonik.
[0197] The composition according to the present invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester, and triester salts, with diester salts being the majority by weight. Ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, as described in US patents 4,874,554 and 4,137,180, may also be used. Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, sold by Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131, may also be used.
[0198] The cationizable surfactants that can be used may be selected from fatty alkylamines such as fatty dialkylamines. Non-limiting examples include dimethyl lauramine, dimethyl behenamine, dimethyl cocamine, dimethyl myristamine, dimethyl palmitamine, dimethyl stearamine, dimethyl tallowamine, dimethyl sojamine and mixtures thereof.
[0199] Fatty dialkylamines are preferably compounds of fatty amidoamines, their salts or mixtures thereof. Examples that are not exhaustive include oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleylhydroxyethylimidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamido-propyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, brassicamido-propyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine and palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0200] Non-polymer mono-, di- and / or tricarboxylic acids may be used to "neutralize" fatty dialkylamines. In some cases, the one or more non-polymer mono-, di- and / or tricarboxylic acids include at least one dicarboxylic acid. Non-limiting examples include lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, benzoic acid, or mixtures thereof. In particular, lactic acid or tartaric acid or mixtures thereof are useful, especially in combination with fatty dimethylamines such as, for example, stearamidopropyldimethylamine.
[0201] Preferably, the cationic surfactants are chosen from quaternary ammonium salts of formula (la) and of formula (IVa) as described above and their mixtures.
[0202] More preferably, cationic surfactants are chosen from those of formula (C) below: CH, O (C) IJ II ur CHt”CH”O”C”R1 H,G. / 2 JX + zN H„C \ CHr-CH-O—C~R2 X- 2 ! He ch3 O
[0203] in which: • RI and R2 are independently a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon fraction comprising 11 to 23 carbon atoms; • X is an anion specially chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, preferably a methosulfate.
[0204] By unsaturated hydrocarbon fraction, it is understood that the hydrocarbon radical comprises at least one carbon-carbon double bond (C=C) and / or at least one carbon-carbon triple bond. It may of course include several carbon-carbon double and / or triple bonds.
[0205] Preferably, RI represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising 13 to 21 carbon atoms, in particular 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and in particular 17 to 18 carbon atoms. When unsaturated, RI preferably comprises at least one double bond (C=C) and, in particular, a single double bond, two double bonds, or three double bonds.
[0206] Preferably, R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising 13 to 21 carbon atoms, in particular 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and in particular 17 to 18 carbon atoms. When unsaturated, R2 preferably comprises at least one double bond (C=C) and, in particular, a single double bond, two double bonds, or three double bonds.
[0207] Preferably, RI and R2 comprise the same number of carbon atoms. Preferably, R2 represents an oleyl group. Preferably, RI represents an oleyl, stearyl, or isostearyl group. When unsaturated, RI preferably comprises at least one double bond (C=C) and, in particular, a single double bond, two double bonds, or three double bonds.
[0208] According to a preferred embodiment, RI represents a stearyl group or an isostearyl group and R2 represents an oleyl group.
[0209] These cationic surfactants are described in particular in US documents 6,653,275, US 20140286889 and EP 0 240 727.
[0210] A preferred cationic surfactant is bis-(isostearoyl / oleoyl isopropyl)dimonium salt, in particular bis-(isostearoyl / oleoyl isopropyl)dimonium methosulfate or chloride.
[0211] Preferably, the total amount of cationic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0212] Preferably, the total amount of quaternary ammonium salt(s) selected from those of formula (la), those of formula (IVa), those of formula (C) and mixtures thereof shall be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0213] Preferably, the total amount of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (C) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0214] Preferably, the total amount of bis-(isostearoyl / oleoyl isopropyl)dimonium salt(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0215] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of the cationic surfactant(s) c) to the total content of the cationic polysaccharide(s) b) is greater than or equal to 1; more preferably, from 1 to 10; even more preferably, from 1.1 to 8; better from 1.5 to 6; even better from 2 to 5.
[0216] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of cationic surfactant(s) selected from those of formula (la), those of formula (IVa), those of formula (C) and their mixtures, to the total content of the cationic polysaccharide(s) b) is greater than or equal to 1; more preferably from 1 to 10; even more preferably from 1.1 to 8; better from 1.5 to 6; even better from 2 to 5.
[0217] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (C) to the total content of the cationic polysaccharide(s) b) is greater than or equal to 1; more preferably, from 1 to 10; even more preferably from 1.1 to 8; better from 1.5 to 6; even better from 2 to 5. Solid fatty alcohols
[0218] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid fatty alcohol, preferably containing 8 to 40, more preferably 10 to 30, even more preferably 12 to 24, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0219] According to the present invention, "fatty alcohol preferably containing 8 to 40 carbon atoms" means a non-oxyalkylated and non-glycerolated alcohol comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain preferably comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms. Hydrocarbon means a hydrocarbon structure composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms.
[0220] The fatty alcohols according to the invention are non-glycerolized and non-oxyalkylated; more particularly non-glycerolized, non-oxyethylated and non-oxypropylated.
[0221] By "solid fatty alcohol" is meant a fatty alcohol having a melting point above 30 °C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 0.5 Pa).
[0222] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1013 x 10⁵ Pa).
[0223] The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear or branched, and preferably comprise 8 to 40, more preferably 10 to 30, even more preferably 12 to 24, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0224] More preferably, the solid fatty alcohols according to the invention are solid fatty monoalcohols.
[0225] The saturated solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably linear. They may optionally include in their structure at least one ring Aromatic or not. Preferably, they are acyclic.
[0226] More particularly, the solid saturated fatty alcohols of the invention are selected from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol.
[0227] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are chosen from solid fatty alcohols containing 14 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0228] More preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are chosen from among the saturated and linear solid fatty alcohols; preferably the saturated and linear solid fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0229] Even more preferably, fatty alcohols are chosen from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol.
[0230] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl alcohol.
[0231] Preferably, the total amount of solid fatty alcohol(s) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better from 0.5% to 3% by weight, and even better from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0232] Preferably, the total amount of saturated and linear solid fatty alcohol(s) containing 8 to 40 carbon atoms ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better from 0.5% to 3%, and better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0233] Preferably, the total amount of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixtures in the composition ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better from 0.5% to 3%, and better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Anionic surfactants
[0234] Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one anionic surfactant.
[0235] The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
[0236] In this description, a species is said to be "anionic" when it carries at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized in the form of a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example, the medium or the pH) and that it does not include any cationic charge.
[0237] The anionic surfactants that can be used are, for example, selected from carboxylate anionic surfactants, sulfonate anionic surfactants, sulfate anionic surfactants and mixtures thereof; more particularly from sulfate anionic surfactants.
[0238] It is understood in this description that: • Anionic carboxylate surfactants include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ) and may optionally also include one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functions; • Anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise carboxylate functions and • Anionic sulfate surfactants include at least one sulfate function, but do not include carboxylate or sulfonate functions.
[0239] Sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used include at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3).
[0240] They can be selected from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates and also salts of these compounds.
[0241] The alkyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 28, better still from 10 to 24 or even from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designates a phenyl or benzyl group.
[0242] These compounds are optionally polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated, and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs and even better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.
[0243] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be selected from alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts and, in particular, amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium salt.
[0244] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be cited include mono-ethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
[0245] Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and, in particular, salts of sodium or magnesium are preferably used.
[0246] More preferably, anionic surfactants are chosen from among alkyl(ether) sulfate type anionic surfactants and, even better, from among the salts of Ci2-Ci4 alkyl(ether)sulfate and, in particular, the lauryl ethersulfate salts.
[0247] Suitable anionic surfactants in the composition of the present invention can be oxyethylated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs.
[0248] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) is / are present in a total quantity ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30%, more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, even more preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, better from 5% to 20% by weight, or even better from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0249] Preferably, when the one or more anionic surfactants are chosen from those of the alkyl(ether)sulfate type, the one or more alkyl(ether)sulfate type surfactants are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 30%, even more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, or even more preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, better from 5% to 20% by weight, or better still from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0250] Preferably, when the one or more anionic surfactants are selected from the salts of Ci2-CM alkyl(ether)sulfate, the one or more salts of Ci2-Ci4 alkyl(ether)sulfate are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 30%, even more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, or even more preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, better from 5% to 20% by weight, or better still from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0251] Preferably, when the one or more anionic surfactants are selected from lauryl ether sulfate salts, the one or more lauryl ether sulfate salts are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 30%, even more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, or even more preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, better from 5% to 20% by weight, or better still from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0252] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the total amount of anionic surfactant(s), in particular alkyl(ether)sulfate type surfactants, in particular Ci2-Ci4 alkyl(ether)sulfate salts and even more particularly lauryl ether sulfate salts, is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, better greater than or equal to 7% by weight, or even better greater than or equal to 10% by weight and even better 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants
[0253] Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant.
[0254] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) which may be used in the present invention may in particular be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
[0255] More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is / are chosen from (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine and mixtures thereof.
[0256] Preferably, the total amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.01% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 20%, even more preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, better still from 1% to 10% by weight, and even better from 1.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0257] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more anionic surfactants and one or more amphoteric surfactants.
[0258] More preferably, the composition comprises: • one or more anionic surfactants of the alkyl(ether) sulfate type, in particular salts of Ci2-CM alkyl(ether) sulfate such as lauryl ethersulfate salts and • one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants selected from (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
[0259] Preferably, the total quantity of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (cumulative) may range from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight and even more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, better from 5% to 22% by weight, or even better from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0260] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention may, in addition, comprise at least one thickening polymer.
[0261] According to the present invention, the term "thickening polymers" refers to polymers which, by their presence at a concentration of 0.05% by weight, increase the viscosity of the cosmetic compositions into which they are introduced of at least 20 cps (20 mPa.s), preferably at least 50 cps (50 mPa.s), at room temperature (25 °C), at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s 1 (viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or similar).
[0262] According to the invention, the thickening polymers that can be used are different from cationic polysaccharides b) and quaternary ammonium salts c).
[0263] The thickening polymer(s) which can be used in the process according to the invention is / are preferably chosen from among non-associative thickening polymers without sugar motifs, associative thickening polymers and mixtures thereof.
[0264] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "sugar motif" means an oxygen hydrocarbon compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which includes at least 4 carbon atoms.
[0265] More preferably, the thickening polymers are chosen from crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers. Among homopolymers of this type, examples include those crosslinked with an allylic alcohol ether from the sugar range, for example the products sold under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by Noveon or the products sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by 3 VS A. These polymers have the INCI name Carbomer.
[0266] Preferably, when the composition includes at least one thickening polymer, the total amount of thickening polymer(s) ranges from 0.01 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.015 to 2% by weight, even more preferably from 0.02 to 1% by weight, better from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight and better still from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0267] Preferably, when the composition comprises at least one crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer, the total amount of crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer(s) ranges from 0.01 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.015 to 2% by weight, even more preferably from 0.02 to 1% by weight, better from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight and better still from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0268] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one polyol.
[0269] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" is intended to designate an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) on different carbon atoms, this compound being optionally cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.
[0270] According to the invention, the polyol that can be used is different from fatty alcohols d).
[0271] More specifically, the polyol(s) which can be used according to the invention includes from 2 to 30 hydroxyl groups, more preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and even more preferably from 2 to 3 hydroxyl groups.
[0272] The polyol(s) that can be used according to the invention generally comprises at least three carbon atoms. More preferably, the polyol(s) that can be used according to the invention comprises no more than eight carbon atoms.
[0273] Preferably, said polyol(s) which can be used according to the invention is / are chosen from polyols comprising at least three carbon atoms and ethylene glycol, and are preferably chosen from 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol and a mixture of these compounds.
[0274] In a particularly preferred manner, the polyol(s) that can be used according to the invention is / are chosen from glycerol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol or a mixture of these compounds, and preferably the polyol is hexylene glycol, glycerin or a mixture of these compounds.
[0275] Preferably, the polyol(s) represent(s) from 0.01% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0276] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises water.
[0277] Water advantageously represents 30% to 95% by weight, preferably 40% to 92% by weight, more preferably 50% to 90% by weight and better 60% to 85% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
[0278] The pH of the composition of the invention is generally between 4 and 9, preferably between 4.5 and 8, better still, between 5 and 7.
[0279] The pH of the composition according to the invention can be corrected to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalizing agents generally used in cosmetic compositions, or by using standard buffer systems.
[0280] Examples of acidifying agents include mineral acids, for example hydrochloric acid, (ortho)phosphoric acid, boric acid, nitric acid or sulfuric acid, or organic compounds, for example compounds comprising at least one carboxylic acid function such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, a sulfonic acid function, a phosphonic acid function or a phosphoric acid function.
[0281] The alkalizing agent(s) may be mineral(s), organic or hybrid(s).
[0282] The mineral alkali agent(s) are preferably selected from aqueous ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates of alkali metal such as sodium carbonate or sodium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate or potassium bicarbonate, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide or mixtures thereof.
[0283] The composition according to the invention may also include one or more additives.
[0284] As additives that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, agents to prevent hair loss and / or to promote hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins, including panthenol, sunscreen agents, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives and pigments.
[0285] A person skilled in the art shall take care to select the optional additives and their quantity so that they do not impair the properties of the composition according to the invention.
[0286] These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0287] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition, more preferably a hair composition such as a hair composition for cleansing and / or revitalizing hair.
[0288] More preferably, the composition according to the invention is a shampoo, a conditioner or a hair mask.
[0289] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a cream-like texture.
[0290] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises:
[0291] - an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm and including: • a silicone mixture comprising (i) a trialkylpolysiloxane terminated by trialkylsilyl having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25 °C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25 °C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, • a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more non-ionic emulsifiers, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has an HLB value of 10 to 16, and • water;
[0292] - at least one cationic polysaccharide among the cationic celluloses, the cationic galactomannan gums and their mixtures;
[0293] - at least one cationic surfactant selected from quaternary ammonium salts chosen from those of formula (la), those of formula (IVa), those of formula (C) and their mixtures, as defined above; and
[0294] - at least one solid fatty alcohol selected from saturated solid fatty alcohols and linear molecules containing 8 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, even more preferentially from 12 to 24, better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0295] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises:
[0296] - an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 less than 350 nm and including: • a silicone mixture comprising (i) a trialkylpolysiloxane terminated by trialkylsilyl having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25 °C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25 °C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, • a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more non-ionic emulsifiers, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has an HLB value of 10 to 16, and • water;
[0297] - at least one cationic polysaccharide among the cationic celluloses, the cationic galactomannan gums and their mixtures;
[0298] - at least one cationic surfactant of formula (C) as defined above and
[0299] - at least one solid fatty alcohol selected from saturated solid fatty alcohols and linear containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 12 to 24, better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms;
[0300] - at least one anionic surfactant of the alkyl(ether) sulfate type, in particular a salt of C12-C14 alkyl(ether) sulfate such as lauryl ether sulfate salt;
[0301] - at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant selected from the (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof; and
[0302] - optionally at least one thickening polymer, preferably selected from the cross-linked acrylic acid homopolymers.
[0303] The present invention also relates to a process for treating keratinous fibers, preferably for washing and / or revitalizing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising a step of applying a composition such as described above to the keratinous fibers.
[0304] Preferably, the keratinous fibers are rinsed after the application of the composition according to the invention to the keratinous fibers.
[0305] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, after the application step, the composition according to the invention is removed after an optional contact time. The contact time of the composition on the keratinous fibers can range from a few seconds to 15 minutes, or even better, from 5 seconds to 10 minutes, and even better, from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.
[0306] The composition could be applied to wet or dry keratinous fibers; preferably to wet keratinous fibers.
[0307] Finally, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as described above for washing and / or revitalizing keratinous fibers, preferably hair.
[0308] In the above description, all preferred embodiments concerning the components can be used individually or in combination.
[0309] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention.
[0310] EXAMPLES:
[0311] In the following examples and unless otherwise indicated, quantities are given as percentages by weight of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0312] Example 1: Preparation of an oil-in-water emulsion
[0313] 450 g of liquid amino silicone (aminoethyl-aminopropylmethylsiloxane-trimethylsiloxane-terminated dimethylsiloxane copolymer having an amine value of 7.2 mg KOH / g of sample and a viscosity of 5,600 mPa·s at 25 °C) was introduced into an emulsion tank. Stirring was started, and 1,800 g of liquid trimethylsiloxane-terminated polymer with a viscosity of 61,500 mPa·s at 25 °C was introduced into the same tank while stirring. The two liquids were mixed for 2 hours at room temperature.
[0314] In a separate vessel, 49 g of steareth-6 and 62 g of PEG-100 stearate were introduced and heated to 60 °C. The temperature was maintained until both emulsifiers became liquid. Then, 31 g of trideceth-3 and 350 g of trideceth-10 (80% active material) were added. This mixture of nonionic emulsifiers had an HLB value of 11.25.
[0315] 80 g of water and 6.2 g of glacial acetic acid were then added to the vat and mixing began. Mixing continued until the entire mass became a creamy paste. The entire paste was transferred to the emulsion vat. Homogenization was ensured for 30 minutes at room temperature. 79.6 g of demineralized water was added and homogenization was ensured for 60 minutes. 72.7 g of demineralized water was added and homogenization was ensured for 50 minutes. 197.4 g of demineralized water was added and homogenization was ensured for 5 minutes. 294.3 g of demineralized water was added and homogenization was ensured for 5 minutes. 180 g of demineralized water was added and homogenization was ensured for 5 minutes. 180 g of demineralized water was added and homogenized for 5 minutes. 197.4 g of demineralized water was added and homogenized for 5 minutes.197.4 g of demineralized water were added and homogenization was ensured for 3 minutes. 228.5 g of demineralized water were added.
[0316]
[0317]
[0318]
[0319] The mixture was mineralized and homogenized for 3 minutes. Finally, 40.5 g of 2-phenoxyethanol was added as a biocide and homogenized for another 3 minutes. A stable oil-in-water emulsion with a D50 particle size of 170 nm was obtained. Example 2: The following composition A according to the invention and the comparative compositions B and C were prepared from the ingredients indicated in Table 1 below (% by weight of active material - MA). [Table 1] Table 1: Ingredients A (Invention) B (Comparative) C (Comparative) Dimethicone (and) Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-10 (and) PEG-100 stearate (and) Steareth-6 (and) Trideceth-3 (from Example 1) 2% emulsion (i.e., 0.2% MA of amodimethicone + 0.8% MA of dimethicone) 2% emulsion (i.e., 0.2% MA of amodimethicone + 0.8% MA of dimethicone) 2% emulsion (i.e., 0.2% MA of amodimethicone + 0.8% MA of dimethicone) Hydroxypropylguar chloride Hydroxypropyltrimonium 0.3 - 0.3 Bis-(isostearoyl / oleoyl-sopropyl)dimonium methosulfate 1 1 - Cetearyl alcohol 1 1 1 Sodium laureth sulfate 13.9 13.9 13.9 Coco-betaine and Cocamidopropyl betaine 1.8 1.8 1.8 Carbomer 0.2 0.2 0.2 Glycerin 0.5 0.5 0.5 Hexylene glycol 0.5 0.5 0.5 Glycol distearate 1.6 1.6 1.6 Sodium chloride 0.35 0.35 0.35 Preservatives Qs Qs Qs Water Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100
[0320] Protocol:
[0321] The hair strands were shampooed, rinsed with water and placed on a heating plate (30 °C).
[0322] Next, 1.2 g of compositions A, B or C respectively was applied to a strand of hair (3 g, 20 cm, medium-lightened hair, from roots to tips). The strands were gently massaged by passing each strand approximately six times between two fingers for fifteen seconds, from roots to tips (without creating knots) so as to lather the compositions.
[0323] The strands were then rinsed with tap water and fingers were run through the hair fifteen times for ten seconds.
[0324] We finally passed each strand between two fingers to remove excess water (2 passes).
[0325] Each wet hair strand was placed on a combing machine (Diastron MTT 175 from Dia-Stron Limited UK) and a comb with a sensor was placed in the hair fibers.
[0326] Combing was carried out by sweeping the strand from root to tip and recording the force required to move the comb along the strand.
[0327] Three strands of hair were treated with each composition A, B or C, and strength measurements were taken 5 times per strand of hair treated.
[0328] In total, the measurements were carried out 15 times per composition under test.
[0329] The average maximum force was calculated from the 15 measured data points of the 3 strands of hair were treated with each composition. The average maximum force was calculated in gram-force (gf): 1 gf corresponds to approximately 0.0098 Newton.
[0330] The weaker the force, the easier the keratin fibers are to comb / untangle.
[0331] The same protocol was repeated with the same strands, once completely dry.
[0332] Test conditions: 23 °C, 54% humidity
[0333] Combing speed = 1,500 mm / minute
[0334] The results are shown in Tables 2 (dry combing) and 3 (wet combing) below.
[0335] [Table 2]
[0336] Table 2: Dry combing (average value of 15 measurements) Composition Maximum strengths (in gf) A 43.5 ± 6.2 (Invention) B (Comparative) 54.1 ± 6.2 C (Comparative) 87.2 ± 13.8
[0337] [Table 3]
[0338] Table 3: Wet combing (average value of 15 measurements) Compositions Maximum Strengths (in gf) A (Invention) 96.5 + 8.3 B (Comparative) 123.3 + 8.3 C (Comparative) 126.1 + 11.2
[0339] It is observed that the strands of hair treated with composition A according to the invention comprising the combination of a cationic polysaccharide with a cationic surfactant are much easier to comb (in wet and dry conditions), compared to the strands of hair treated with the comparative compositions B and C which do not include the combination of a cationic polysaccharide with a cationic surfactant.
[0340] These tests demonstrate the effect on hair detangling of the specific combination of a cationic polysaccharide with a cationic surfactant.
[0341] Furthermore, it has been noted that the hair strands treated with composition A according to the invention are smoother, softer, with less frizz and easier to style than the hair strands treated with comparative compositions B and C.
Claims
Demands
1. Composition comprising: a) an oil-in-water emulsion having a D50 particle size of less than 350 nm and comprising: - a silicone mixture comprising (i) a trialkylpolysiloxane terminated by trialkylsilyl having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25 °C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25 °C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, - a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has an HLB value of 10 to 16, and - water; b) at least one cationic polysaccharide; c) at least one cationic surfactant and d) at least one solid fatty alcohol.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein said trialkylpolysiloxane terminated by trialkylsilyl (i) is of formula (A): R'3SiO(R'2SiO)pSiR'3 (A) in which: - R', identical or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and - p is an integer from 500 to 2000, preferably from 1000 to 2000; and preferably is a trimethylsilyl-terminated PDMS.
3. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amino silicone (ii) is of formula (B): XR2Si(OSiAR)n(OSiR2)mOSiR2X (B) wherein: - R, identical or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, - X, identical or different, is R or a hydroxyl (OH) or alkoxy group in C1-C6; preferably X is R, - A is an amino radical of formula -R*-[NR2-R3-]XNR22, or amino protonated forms of said amino radical, wherein R1 is a C1-C6 alkylene radical, preferably a radical of formula -CH2CH2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2- ; R2, identical or different, is a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C4 alkyl radical, preferably a hydrogen atom; R3 is a Ci-C6 alkylene radical, preferably a radical of formula -CH2CH2-, and x is 0 or 1; and - m + n is an integer from 50 to about 1000, preferably from 50 to 600; preferably A is an amino radical of formula -R'-[NR2-R3-]XNR22, or the amino protonated forms of said amino radical, in which R1 is --CH2CH2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, R2 are hydrogen atoms, R3 is -CH2CH2-, and x is 1.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic polysaccharide(s) b) is / are selected from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, modified or unmodified guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and mixtures thereof; and even better from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic surfactant(s) c) is / are selected from those of formula (C) below: CH3 0 <C) H C / CH—CH-O-C-R1 / N+ H-C \ CHr“CH“O“C-R2 X- 2 ! Il CH„ O dans laquelle : - RI et R2 sont indépendamment une fraction hydrocarbonée saturée ou insaturée comprenant 11 à 23 atomes de carbone ; - X est un anion choisi dans le groupe des halogénures, phosphates, acétates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates ou (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, de préférence méthosulfate.
6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of cationic surfactant(s) c) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight. weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the solid fatty alcohol(s) d) contains from 8 to 40, in particular from 10 to 30, more particularly from 12 to 24, preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms; these are more preferably saturated linear solid fatty alcohols; more preferably saturated linear solid fatty monoalcohols and, even better, they are selected from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one anionic surfactant, preferably selected from alkyl(ether) sulfate type anionic surfactants; preferably from C12-C14 alkyl(ether) sulfate salts; even better from lauryl ether sulfate salts.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant; preferably selected from (C8-C2oalkyl)betaines, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines and mixtures thereof.
10. A process for treating keratinous fibers, preferably for washing and / or revitalizing keratinous fibers, comprising at least the application to the keratinous fibers of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9.