Compact powder based on at least two lamellar fillers, perlite, a spherical filler, non-volatile oils, an amorphous hydrocarbon sequence copolymer and a particulate colorant

Abstract

Title: Compact powder based on at least two lamellar fillers, perlite, a spherical filler, non-volatile oils, an amorphous hydrocarbon sequence copolymer, and a particulate colorant. The present invention relates to a compact powder obtained by wet process ("Wet Process") containing at least: A) an oily phase in an amount of at least 10.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said oily phase comprising a) at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and at least one non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil; and B) a powdery phase in an amount of at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said powdery phase comprising at least: i) at least two lamellar fillers of different natures; and ii) perlite; and iii) at least one spherical filler selected from mineral fillers, organic fillers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof;(iii) at least one particulate coloring agent; (c) at least one amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer; (d) at least one particulate coloring material; said composition not containing talc particles, silicone compounds, or microplastic particles;

Description

Title of the invention: Compact powder based on at least two lamellar fillers, perlite, a spherical filler, non-volatile oils, an amorphous hydrocarbon sequence copolymer and a particulate colorant

[0001] The present invention relates to a solid composition in the form of a compact powder, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratinous materials, more particularly for makeup and / or care of keratinous materials, such as skin, said compact powder being prepared by a wet process.

[0002] Skin care and / or makeup compositions are generally used to give an attractive color to the skin, such as the face, but also to mask skin imperfections, such as redness, marks, fine lines and wrinkles.

[0003] The aforementioned powders are primarily used to add color, a matte finish, and, for those specifically designed for facial skin, to improve the hold of foundation or, if used alone, to provide coverage (face powder, eyeshadow, blush). These formulations are particularly appreciated by users due to their lightness, softness, and non-sticky or non-greasy feel.

[0004] Generally, these compositions combine a predominant powder phase with a binding phase, most often a liquid oil phase. The powder phase consists primarily of fillers combined with pigments, the quantity of which is adjusted to provide the desired makeup effect, which is generally color-based.

[0005] To obtain a composition in compacted solid form, it is known from the prior art to use compacted makeup powders formed by a mixture of powders with a fatty binder and shaped for example by compression.

[0006] However, these compact powders have the particular disadvantage of being fragile. Thus, as the percentage of pigments increases within the product, its manufacture and compaction become complicated, if not impossible, to achieve on an industrial scale, given the quality and productivity requirements. Furthermore, significant quantities of powdered phase in the compact powder do not provide satisfactory sensory properties when the powder is taken from its packaging and / or when it is applied to the skin. It is also difficult for the formulator to achieve good adhesion of the product to the skin. To overcome these drawbacks, if we increase the amount of oily binder, this composition will tend to wax, that is to say, to harden during use until it prevents removal.

[0007] Among the qualities sought in compact makeup powders, we can mention: - good cohesion and homogenization of the composition, - good impact resistance, - a good texture, - an appropriate hardness, - good adhesion to the skin, - good product application regardless of the applicator (in terms of sufficient quantity of product), - Comfortable application without drying the skin, - good powder retention properties, - good sensory properties at the time of sampling, - good sensory properties at the time of product application.

[0008] It is known in the prior art to manufacture such compositions by using volatile organic solvents (isodecane, isopropanol) implemented in a wet preparation process called a "WET PROCESS," to inject one or more powders of a given color into a respective cup. These solvents allow the powder to become fluid and form a slurry, which is then shaped in a cup and subsequently evaporates.

[0009] Compact powders obtained by this wet process technique have already been proposed in patent EP2928448B1; said powders comprising: - an oil phase greater than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, - a powdery phase greater than or equal to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising at least one spherical filler and at least one lamellar filler; the spherical filler(s) and the lamellar filler(s) being present at a respective total weight content such that the weight ratio of the spherical filler(s) to the lamellar filler(s) is greater than or equal to 0.01, preferably between 0.02 and 15.

[0010] A compact powder containing at least: was also proposed in patent application EP3595620 - an oily phase in an amount of at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said oily phase comprising at least one non-volatile, non-phenylated silicone oil; and - a powdered phase in an amount of at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said powdered phase comprising at least mica particles; and - at least one amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer; said composition not containing any untreated silicone talc particles and being capable of being obtained by a wet preparation process comprising at least the following steps: (i) the oily phase, the amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer, the powdered phase and at least one volatile solvent are mixed to form a slurry; and (ii) the slurry is injected into a container (bucket or mold) and shaped by compaction, in particular pressing and / or suction to obtain the composition in powder form.

[0011] These compact powders obtained by wet mixing contain a high quantity of lamellar particles such as mother-of-pearl and talc to maintain good injectability in the manufacturing process and, after evaporation of the volatile solvent, to obtain satisfactory product deposition, cohesion, and impact resistance. The presence of high quantities of mother-of-pearl and talc tends to produce compact powders with glossy or satin effects. The applicant observed during its research that reducing the amount of mother-of-pearl and talc in these compact powders to obtain a matte finish led to problems such as cracking, failure to pick up the powder, hardness without the possibility of product deposition, discomfort, and lack of homogeneity.

[0012] These same compact powders also contain organic fillers, most often made up of synthetic polymer particles called microplastics, which also provide comfort, glide, and uniformity to the makeup. These are not biodegradable.

[0013] According to the definition of the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA), "microplastic filler" means a solid-form synthetic microparticle composed of polymer, less than 5 mm in size, insoluble and non-biodegradable. Microplastic fillers are generally dry and soft to the touch.

[0014] The compact powders obtained by wet mixing known in the prior art also generally include silicone compounds such as phenylated or non-phenylated silicone oils, silicone elastomers to provide ease of application, facilitate spreading, or provide adhesion. These silicone compounds are, however, not biodegradable.

[0015] The compact powders obtained by wet process known in the prior art comprising talc, silicone compounds and / or microplastic particles do not have sufficient transparency for natural-looking makeup, tend to produce a grey (“ashy”) effect on the skin after application.

[0016] There remains a need to find new homogeneous, transparent compact powders obtained by wet process, without talc, without silicone compound and without microplastic, having both good injectability in the wet manufacturing process, and after evaporation of the volatile solvent, good product deposition, good cohesion, good shock resistance, good sliding effect, good matte finish, significantly reduced grey effect and good sensory appeal.

[0017] The applicant unexpectedly discovered that these objectives could be achieved with a solid composition in the form of a compact powder, including a physiologically acceptable medium and containing at least: A) an oil phase in an amount of at least 10.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said oil phase comprising a) at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and b) at least one non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil and B) a powdered phase in an amount of at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said powdered phase comprising: (i) at least two lamellar charges of different natures; and ii) perlite; and iii) at least one spherical charge selected from mineral charges, naturally occurring organic charges, and mixtures thereof; and iii) at least one particulate coloring agent; and C) at least one amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer; and D) at least one particulate coloring matter; said composition not containing talc particles, silicone compounds, or microplastic particles; said composition being capable of being obtained by a wet preparation process comprising at least the following steps: 1) The oily phase, the amorphous hydrocarbon sequence copolymer, the powdered phase, and at least one volatile solvent are mixed to form a slurry; and The sludge is injected into a container and shaped by compaction, in particular pressing and / or suction, to obtain the composition in the form of a compact powder.

[0018] This discovery is the basis of the invention.

[0019] Objects of the invention

[0020] Thus, a first object of the present invention is a solid composition in the form of a compact powder, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium and containing at least: A) an oil phase in an amount of at least 10.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said oil phase comprising a) at least one oil non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil and at least one non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil and B) a powdered phase in an amount of at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said powdered phase comprising at least: i) at least two lamellar fillers of different natures; and ii) perlite; and (ii) at least one spherical charge selected from mineral charges, naturally occurring organic charges, and mixtures thereof; and iii) at least one particulate coloring agent; and C) at least one amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer; and D) at least one particulate coloring matter; said composition not containing talc particles, silicone compounds, or microplastic particles; said composition being capable of being obtained by a wet preparation process comprising at least the following steps: 1) the oily phase, the amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer, the powdered phase and at least one volatile solvent are mixed to form a slurry; and the slurry is injected into a container and shaped by compaction, in particular pressing and / or suction to obtain the composition in the form of a compact powder.

[0021] A second object of the present invention is a method of coating keratinous materials, in particular skin, and more particularly a method of making up and / or caring for said keratinous materials, comprising applying to them the composition as defined above.

[0022] Definitions

[0023] In the context of the present invention, "keratinic material" means in particular the skin (face, cheeks, eyelids).

[0024] By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomforts (tingling, pulling), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.

[0025] For the purposes of this invention, "charges" means colorless or white solid particles of all shapes, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic nature, which are insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0026] The term "talc particle" means particles of hydroxylated magnesium silicate with the molecular formula Mg3Si4Oio(OH)2, called talc and belonging to the phyllosilicate chemical family. Said talc particle may be untreated or surface-treated. knowing whether uncoated or superficially coated, such as with a surface treatment agent chosen from silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance promoting dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

[0027] By "composition not containing talc particles" is meant any composition containing less than 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or less than 0.5% by weight, or less than 0.1% by weight or even free of talc particles.

[0028] For the purposes of the present invention, "silicone compound" means any organic molecule comprising in its structure at least one Si-O group, in particular organosiloxane.

[0029] By "composition not containing silicone compound" is meant any composition containing less than 1.0% by weight, or less than 0.5% by weight, or less than 0.1% by weight of silicone compound in relation to the total weight of the composition, or free from silicone compound.

[0030] By "composition not containing microplastic particles" is meant any composition containing less than 1.0% by weight, or even less than 0.5% by weight, or even less than 0.1% by weight of microplastic particles in relation to the total weight of the composition, or even free of microplastic particles.

[0031] For the purposes of the present invention, the following definitions apply: - By "solid," we mean the state of the composition at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), that is, a composition of high consistency that retains its shape during storage. Unlike so-called fluid compositions, it does not flow under its own weight. It is advantageously characterized by a hardness as defined below. - by "compact powder," a mass of product whose cohesion is ensured at least in part by compaction or, preferably, pressing during manufacturing. In particular, by performing a measurement with a TA.XT.plus Texture Analyser® sold by Stable Micro Systems, the compact powder according to the invention can advantageously exhibit a compressive strength between 0.1 and 1 kg, notably between 0.2 and 0.8 kg, referred to the surface area of ​​the moving part used (in this case, 7.07 mm²). This strength is measured by moving a cylindrical moving part with a flat end, SMS P / 3, in contact with the powder, over a distance of 2 mm and at a speed of 0.5 mm / second; more generally, this powder can be obtained by compaction, or preferably by pressing.

[0032] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a dry extract content greater than or equal to 95%, better to 98%, or even equal to 100%.

[0033] For the purposes of the present invention, “dry extract content” means the non-volatile matter content.

[0034] The quantity of dry extract (abbreviated DA) of a composition according to the invention is measured using a commercial halogen moisture analyzer, the "HALOGEN MOISTURE ANALYZER HR 73®", from Mettler TOLEDO. The measurement is based on the weight loss of a sample dried by halogen heating and therefore represents the percentage of residual material once the water and volatile matter have evaporated. This technique is fully described in the documentation for the apparatus supplied by Mettler TOLEDO.

[0035] The measurement protocol is as follows:

[0036] Approximately 2 g of the composition, hereinafter referred to as the sample, is spread onto a metal dish which is then placed in the halogen dryer mentioned above. The sample is then subjected to a temperature of 105 °C until a constant weight is obtained. The wet mass of the sample, corresponding to its initial mass, and the dry mass of the sample, corresponding to its mass after halogen heating, are measured using a precision balance.

[0037] The experimental error related to the measurement is on the order of plus or minus 2%. The dry extract content is calculated as follows: Dry Extract Content (expressed as % by weight) = 100 x (Dry Mass / Wet Mass). Residual volatile solvent

[0038] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises less than 0.5% by weight of residual volatile solvent(s) from the wet preparation process, better less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] Volatile solvents can be chosen from water, C2-C4 monoalcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, ethers such as dicaprylyl ether, and volatile hydrocarbon oils such as C8-C16 isoparaffins like isododecane. Preferably, isoparaffins such as isododecane will be used.

[0040] Oily phase

[0041] The composition of the invention comprises an oily phase. Said phase is liquid (in the absence of a structuring agent) at room temperature (20-25 °C). It is organic and immiscible in water.

[0042] The oily phase (or grease phase) of the compositions according to the invention comprises a) at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and b) at least one non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and optionally c) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil as well as ingredients soluble or miscible in said oils.

[0043] The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature. (20-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure. These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0044] The term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more functions selected from among the hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions.

[0045] By "nonpolar hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil containing exclusively hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0046] By "polar hydrocarbon oil", we mean an oil containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and one or more functions selected from among the hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions.

[0047] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having, in particular, a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).

[0048] The oily phase is present in the composition of the invention in an amount of at least 10.0% by weight, preferably from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. a. Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0049] By way of example of a non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil usable in the invention, one may cite: - triglycerides made up of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular whose fatty acids can have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and especially from C18 to C36, these oils being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; These oils may include heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil (820.6 g / mol), corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, squash oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, rosehip oil; shea oil; or even caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel; - linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, such as cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate;lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate; - polyesters obtained by condensation of dimers and / or trimers of unsaturated fatty acids and diols such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Examples include the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA®, - di-alkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains being either identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis; - linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, - aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-phenyl ethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyl octyl salicylate, - dimer diol and mono- or dicarboxylic acid esters and polyesters, such as dimer diol and fatty acid esters and dimer diol and dicarboxylic acid esters, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7® marketed by NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL and described in US application 2004-175338, the contents of which are incorporated into this application by reference; - fatty alcohols with 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleic alcohol; - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being either identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis; and - and their mixtures.

[0050] According to a preferred embodiment, the polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name mination DUB B1215® sold by the company STARINERIES DUBOIS, the product with the trade name ERCAREL AB / TO® sold by the company ERCA or the product sold under the trade name FINSOLV TN® by the company INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS.

[0051] According to a particular form, the polar non-volatile oil or oils is / are present in the composition of the invention in an amount less than or equal to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. a. Non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon oils

[0052] By way of example of a non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon oil that can be used in the invention, one may cite: - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene; - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not such as Parleam, squalane.

[0053] According to a preferred form, the non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s) is / are selected from squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and their mixtures.

[0054] In a preferred form, the non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s) is / are present in an amount less than or equal to 50% by weight, and more preferably from 25 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, a. Additional volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0055] The composition according to the invention may further comprise c) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil in an amount less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0057] In particular, the hydrocarbon volatile oil or oils present in the composition of the invention are residual and come from the wet process manufacturing of the composition.

[0058] By way of example of a volatile hydrocarbon oil usable in the invention, one may cite volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from among hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars® or Permetyls®, C8-C16 branched esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Soit® by the SHELL company, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in Cognis patent application DE10 2008 012 457.

[0059] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises isododecane in an amount less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] Powdered phase

[0061] The powdered phase comprises at least: i) at least two lamellar charges of different natures ii) of pearlite; and iii) at least one spherical charge chosen from among mineral charges, organic charges of natural origin; and iii) at least one particulate coloring agent.

[0062] A solid composition according to the invention has a powder phase content greater than or equal to 40% by weight, and more particularly ranging from 50 to 85% by weight, better from 60 to 80% by weight, relative to its total weight of the composition.

[0063] Lamellar charges

[0064] The powder phase comprises i) at least two lamellar fillers of different nature.

[0065] The term "lamellar charge" or "platelet charge" means a charge formed of parallelepiped-shaped particles (rectangular or square surface), discoidal (circular surface) or ellipsoidal (oval surface), characterized by three dimensions: a length, a width and a height, particles which are insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting temperature of the medium (approximately 100 °C).

[0066] When the shape of the particles in a lamellar charge is circular, the length and width are identical and correspond to the diameter of a disk, while the height corresponds to the thickness of the disk. When the surface is oval, the length and width correspond respectively to the major and minor axes of an ellipse, and the height corresponds to the thickness of the elliptical disk formed by the platelet. When the surface It is polygonal, preferably parallelepiped; the length and width can be of the same or different dimensions: when they are the same dimension, the general shape of the parallelepiped's surface is square; otherwise, the general shape is rectangular. As for the height, it corresponds to the thickness of the parallelepiped.

[0067] The length of the lamellar particles suitable for the invention preferably varies from 0.01 to 100 pm, better from 0.1 to 50 pm, and even better from 1 to 50 pm. The width of these wafers preferably varies from 0.01 to 100 pm, better from 0.1 to 50 pm, and even better from 1 to 10 pm. And the height (thickness) of these wafers preferably varies from 0.1 nm to 1 pm (0.1 to 1000 nm), better from 1 nm to 600 nm, and even better from 1 nm to 500 nm.

[0068] The compositions according to the invention comprise, preferably, at least two lamellar fillers of different natures chosen from natural micas, a synthetic fluor-phlogopite, clays such as magnesium and aluminum silicates, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, a boron nitride, barium sulfate, aluminum oxides, N-lauroyl lysine and mixtures thereof.

[0069] According to a preferred form, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two lamellar fillers selected from natural micas, synthetic fluorphlogopites, N-Lauroyl Lysine, a boron nitride and mixtures thereof.

[0070] According to a particularly preferred form, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture comprising at least one natural mica, a synthetic fluorphlogopite, N-Lauroyl Lysine and a boron nitride.

[0071] As an example of N-Lauroyl Lysine, the commercial product AMIHOPE LL® sold by the company AJINOMOTO can be cited.

[0072] Boron nitride

[0073] There are several polymorphic forms of boron nitride: - hexagonal boron nitrides (denoted h-BN), - rhombohedral boron nitrides (denoted r-BN), - amorphous boron nitrides (denoted a-BN), - turbostratic boron nitrides (denoted t-BN), - cubic boron nitrides (denoted c-BN), and - wurtzite-type hexagonal boron nitrides (denoted w-BN).

[0074] The hexagonal boron nitride h-BN has a so-called hexagonal sheet structure, formed by the AB AB type stacking of BN planes, which perfectly overlap from one plane to another thanks to the difference in chemical nature of the elements B and N.

[0075] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, boron nitride particles having a plate-like and hexagonal shape (denoted h-BN) will be used.

[0076] Preferably, boron nitride particles have an average particle size ranging from 0.1 to 25 pm and preferably from 0.3 to 15 pm.

[0077] The particle size is measured using a laser diffraction distribution method with a Nikkiso Microtrac® or Malvern 3042407 16 Mastersizer® type instrument, specifically by measuring the values ​​D

[10] , D

[50] , and D

[90] . D

[10] represents the maximum size of 10% of the particles by volume. D

[50] represents the maximum size of 50% of the particles by volume. D

[90] represents the maximum size of 90% of the particles by volume.

[0078] The boron nitride particles according to the invention can be selected from the following commercial products: RONAFLAIR BORONEIGE SQ-6 ® sold by MERCK, SP2® and SP8® sold by Saint Gobain Ceramics, SOFTOUCH BORON NITRIDE CC6657®, CC6058®, CC6059® products sold by MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS.

[0079] The lamellar fillers are advantageously present in a composition according to the present invention at a total content of 10 to 60% by weight, better of 20 to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0080] Perlite

[0081] The perlites usable according to the invention are generally aluminosilicates of volcanic origin and have the following composition - 70.0-75.0% by weight of silica SiO2 - 12.0-15.0% by weight of aluminium oxide oxide A12O3 - 3.0-5.0% sodium oxide Na2O2 - 3.0-5.0% potassium oxide K2O - 0.5-2% iron oxide Fe2O3 - 0.2-0.7% magnesium oxide MgO - 0.5-1.5% calcium oxide CaO - 0.05 - 0.15% titanium oxide TiO2.

[0082] Preferably, the perlite is ground, dried, and then calibrated in a first step. The resulting product, called Perlite Ore, is gray in color and approximately 100 µm in size. The Perlite Ore is then expanded (1000°C / 2 seconds) to produce 30 more or less white particles. When the temperature reaches 850-900°C, the water trapped within the material's structure vaporizes, causing the material to expand relative to its original volume.

[0083] The expanded perlite particles according to the invention can be obtained by the expansion process described in US patent 5,002,698. 35

[0084] Preferably, the perlite particles used will be ground; in this case they are called Expanded Milled Perlite (EMP).

[0085] They preferably have a particle size defined by a median diameter D50 ranging from 0.5 to 50 pm and preferably from 0.5 to 40 pm.

[0086] Preferably, the perlite particles used have an apparent uncompacted density at 25°C ranging from 10 to 400 kg / m3 (DIN 53468 standard) and preferably from 10 to 300 kg / m3.

[0087] Preferably, the perlite sold by the company Miyoshi Kasei under the trade name Perlite-M SZ12® is used.

[0088] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises perlite in a content ranging from 5 to 45% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 25 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] Spherical charge

[0090] A composition according to the invention comprises one or more spherical filler(s) chosen from among inorganic fillers, organic fillers of natural origin.

[0091] By “organic charge of natural origin” is meant any charge derived from a plant and having undergone one or more chemical modifications, for example by synthesis reaction.

[0092] By "spherical", it is understood that the particle has a sphericity index, that is to say the ratio between its largest diameter and its smallest diameter, of less than 1.2.

[0093] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the average diameter of spherical charge(s) according to the invention can vary from 1 to 100 pm, preferably from 1 to 50 pm, in particular less than 30 pm, and more particularly ranging from 1 to 25 pm.

[0094] By "average diameter" of the particles, we mean the average diameter over 50% by volume of the particles (D[0,5]) obtained using a laser diffraction particle size analyzer (e.g. Mastersizer 2000® from Malvern).

[0095] The spherical charges of the present invention may be porous or non-porous, hollow or solid.

[0096] An inorganic spherical filler according to the invention can be chosen from the group consisting of glass microbeads; silica microbeads, in particular amorphous porous silica microbeads, and mixtures thereof.

[0097] Examples of glass microbeads include: - those with the INCI name: GLASS BEADS such as the commercial product P2015SL® (9-11 pm) by the company PRIZMALITE; - hollow microspheres with INCI name: CALCIUM ALUMINIUM BORO-SILICATE such as the commercial product LUXSIL COSMETIC MICROSPHERES® (9-13 pm) by the company POTTERS.

[0098] As an example of spherical particles of amorphous silica, the following commercial products can be used: Silica 35 Beads SB-150®, SB-300® or SB 700®, preferably SB 300® from MYOSHI KASEI; the SUNSPHERE® or SOLASPHERE® range from Asahi Glass AGC SI-TECH, including SUNSPHERE H-51®, SUNSPHERE 12L®, SUNSPHERE H-201®, H-52® and SUNSPHERE® or SOLASPHERE H-53®; SUNSIL 1308® from Sunjin; SPHERICA P-1500® from Ikeda Corporation; SY-LOSPHERE® from Fuji Silysia; the SILICA PEARL® and SATINIER® ranges from JGC Catalysts and Chemicals, more specifically SATINIER Ml3® and Satinier Ml6® silicas, the MSS-500® silicas from KOBO, and more specifically MSS-500-20N®, as well as Silica Shells® from KOBO.

[0099] The naturally occurring organic spherical fillers can be selected from spherical cellulose beads and / or microcrystalline cellulose in sphere form, and mixtures thereof. The cellulose beads that can be used are not limited by the type of cellulose, such as cellulose I, cellulose II, or similar.

[0100] Examples of cellulose microbeads include the commercial products CELLULOSE BEADS USF® (4-7 pm), CELLULOSE BEADS D-10® (< 15 pm), CELLULOSE BEADS D-30® (< 30 pm) and CELLULOSE BEADS D-100® (< 100 pm) sold by DAITO.

[0101] More particularly, the composition comprises at least one spherical filler selected from glass microbeads with INCI name: CALCIUM ALUMINIUM BO-ROSILICATE, porous amorphous silica microbeads, and mixtures thereof.

[0102] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises the spherical charge(s) in a total quantity ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0103] Amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer

[0104] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer, also called an amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer, preferably a soluble or dispersible copolymer in the oil phase.

[0105] Such a copolymer can therefore act as a gelling agent for this oily phase.

[0106] The hydrocarbon sequence copolymer can be, in particular, a diblock, triblock, multiblock, radial, star copolymer, or mixtures thereof.

[0107] Such sequenced hydrocarbon copolymers are described in US-A-2002 / 005562 and US-A-5,221,534 patent.

[0108] The copolymer may have at least one block whose glass transition temperature is preferably less than 20 °C, preferably less than or equal to 0 °C, preferably less than or equal to -20 °C, and preferably even less than or equal to -40 °C. The glass transition temperature of said block may be between -150 °C and 20 °C, in particular between 100 °C and 0 °C.

[0109] The hydrocarbon sequence copolymer present in the composition according to the invention is preferably an amorphous copolymer formed by polymerization of an olefin. The olefin may, in particular, be an ethylenically unsaturated monomer.

[0110] As an example of an olefin, one can cite the monomers of ethylenic carbide, having in particular one or two ethylenic unsaturations, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene, or pentadiene.

[0111] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon sequence copolymer is an amorphous sequence copolymer of styrene and olefin.

[0112] Preferred in particular are sequenced copolymers comprising at least one styrene block and at least one block comprising motifs selected from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butylene, isoprene or a mixture thereof.

[0113] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer is hydrogenated to reduce residual ethylenic unsaturations after polymerization of the monomers.

[0114] In particular, the hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer is a copolymer, possibly hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and ethylene / alkylene blocks in C3-C4.

[0115] Examples of diblock copolymers, preferably hydrogenated, include styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene copolymers, and styrene-ethylene / butylene copolymers. Diblock polymers are notably sold under the name Kraton® G1701E by Kraton Polymers.

[0116] Examples of triblock copolymers, preferably hydrogenated, include styrene-ethylene / propylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-isoprene-styrene copolymers, and styrene-butadiene-styrene copolymers. Triblock polymers are notably sold under the names Kraton® G1650, Kraton® G1652, Kraton® G1657®, Kraton® DI 101, Kraton® DI 102, and Kraton® DI 160 by Kraton Polymers.

[0117] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer is a hydrogenated styrene-ethylene / butylene-styrene triblock copolymer with INCI name: HYDROGENATED STYRENE / BUTADIENE COPOLYMER like the commercial product ELLAMERA TER SET 503® sold by Kraton Polymers.

[0118] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises a content of 0.5 to 5% by weight of active substance of sequenced hydrocarbon copolymer(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, better 0.5 to 2% by weight.

[0119] Particulate coloring agent

[0120] The particulate colouring agent according to the invention is preferably chosen from pigments, pearls, reflective particles and mixtures thereof.

[0121] A composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of particulate coloring agent(s) ranging from 5 to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition

[0122] Pigments

[0123] By "pigments" we mean particles of any shape, white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble in the physiological environment, intended to color the composition.

[0124] Pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

[0125] One can cite, among the mineral pigments, titanium dioxide, possibly Surface treated zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metallic powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder.

[0126] Organic pigments may be selected from the materials below and their mixtures: - cochineal carmine, - organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthenic, pyrenic, quinoline, triphenylmethane, and fluorane dyes.

[0127] Among the organic pigments, mention may be made in particular of the D&C certified pigments known under the following designations: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6.

[0128] The chemical materials corresponding to each of the organic coloring materials mentioned above are referred to in the book "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", Edition 1997, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by "The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association", the contents of which are incorporated into this application by reference.

[0129] Preferably, pigments chosen from - titanium dioxide (CI 77891) such as the commercial product HOMBITAN FF PHARMA® sold by the company VENATOR, - red iron oxides (CI 77491) such as the commercial product SUNPURO RED IRON OXIDE C33-8001® sold by the company SUN, - yellow iron oxides (CI 77492) such as the commercial product SUNPURO YELLOW IRON OXIDE C33-9001® sold by the company SUN; - black iron oxides (CI 77499) such as the commercial product SUNPURO BLACK IRON OXIDE C33-7001 sold by the company SUN, and - their mixtures such as the mixture of red and black iron oxides sold under the trade name UNIPURE RED LC 383® by the company SENSIENT.

[0130] Mother-of-pearl

[0131] By “mother-of-pearl”, one must understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

[0132] Examples of mother-of-pearl include pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also consist of mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic colorants are superimposed.

[0133] Mother-of-pearl may in particular have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, green, blue, violet and / or copper colour or reflection.

[0134] By way of illustration of the mother-of-pearls that can be introduced into the composition, we can mention the gold-colored mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name of Brillant Gold 212G® (Timica), Gold 222C® (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold® (Timica), Gold 4504® (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by the company MERCK under the name Bronze Fine® (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze® (17353) (Colorona) and by the company ENGELHARD under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearls, notably marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C® (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR® 101 (Cosmica) and by the company MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange® (17449) (Microna); brown mother-of-pearls, notably marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Nu-Antique Copper 340XB® (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509® (Chromalite);copper-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Copper 340A® (Timica); red-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Sienna Fine® (17386) (Colorona); yellow-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow® (4502) (Chromalite); red-tinted mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, notably marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012® (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Tan Opale G005® (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, notably marketed by the company; ENGELHARD under the name Nu Antique Bronze 240 AB® (Timica), blue mother-of-pearls notably marketed by MERCK under the name Matte Blue® (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearls with a silvery sheen notably marketed by MERCK under the name Xirona Silver®, and orange-pink-green-gold mother-of-pearls notably marketed by MERCK under the name Indian Summer® (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.

[0135] As further examples of mother-of-pearls, one may also mention particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.

[0136] Particles having a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are notably sold under the name Metashine MC1080RY® by the company Toyal.

[0137] Finally, among the examples of nacres that can also be mentioned, we can cite polyethylene terephthalate flakes, in particular those sold by Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver IP 0.004X0.004® (silver flakes).

[0138] A composition according to the invention may comprise a nacre content ranging from 0 to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0139] Non-ionic emulsifying surfactants

[0140] According to a preferred form, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one emulsifying non-ionic surfactant of HLB less than or equal to 8.

[0141] For the purposes of the present invention, "emulsifying surfactant" means an amphiphilic surfactant compound, that is to say, having two parts of different polarity. In general, one part is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oil phase), and the other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by their HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) value, where HLB is the ratio of the hydrophilic to the lipophilic part of the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB System: A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984). For nonionic emulsifying surfactants usable according to the invention, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the Griffin method or the Da Vies method.

[0142] The surfactant or emulsifying surfactant(s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] The surfactants preferably used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from: - esters and ethers of sugars such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan mono-isostearate, sorbitan tri-stearate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, methyl glucose isostearate, sucrose (poly)palmitostearate, sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose tribehenate, sucrose oleate, sucrose distearate, sucrose polylaurate, sucrose laurate, sucrose hexaerucate, and mixtures thereof, for example Arlatone 2121® marketed by ICI or SPAN 65V® from UNIQEMA; - fatty acid esters, particularly C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22, and polyol esters, particularly glycerol or sorbitol esters, such as glyceryl stearate, for example sold under the name TEGIN M® by GOLDSCHMIDT, polyglycerol diisostearate, polyglycerol isostearate, polyglycerol monostearate, diglycerol tetraisostearate, polyethylene glycol diisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, glycerol monooleate, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name IMWITOR 312® by HULS, diethylene glycol (di)laurate, decaglyceryl pentaoleate, decaglyceryl pentadiisostearate, glyceryl caprate / caprylate, polyglyceryl-2 (iso-)stearate, and glyceryl (poly)ricinoleate; - oxyalkylated alcohols, in particular oxyethylated and / or oxypropylated alcohols which may contain from 1 to 15 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene motifs, in particular fatty alcohols in C8-C24, and preferably in C12-C18, ethoxylated such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 2 oxyethylene motifs (CTFA name "Steareth-2") such as BRU 72® marketed by the company UNIQEMA, oxyethylated oleyl alcohol; - fatty alcohols such as cetostearyl alcohol; - oxyethylenated and / or oxyproprylenized silicone compounds, having for example 3 to 20 oxyalkylenated motifs and in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxyproprylenized dimethicones, elastomers or non-elastomers; and their mixtures.

[0144] According to a particular form, the non-ionic emulsifying surfactant of HLB less than or equal to 8 is sorbitan isostearate of INCI name: SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE such as the commercial product SPAN® 120 sold by the company CRODA.

[0145] Preparation process (wet process)

[0146] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is obtained by a wet process comprising the following steps: - the oily phase, the amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer, the powdered phase and at least one volatile solvent are mixed to prepare a slurry. - the said slurry is injected and then shaped in a container by compaction, in particular pressing and / or aspiration to obtain the final compact powder.

[0147] Preferably, a mud drying step is also carried out molded in the container.

[0148] Mixing step

[0149] In this step, the components of the oily phase, the components of the powdery phase and the volatile solvent(s) are mixed to prepare the slurry which is a thick suspension of the powdery materials in the liquid formed by the oily phase and the volatile solvent(s).

[0150] According to a first variant, the components of the powder phase and those of the oily phase are first mixed together and then, in a second step, the volatile solvent(s) are added to the mixture obtained.

[0151] According to a second variant, the components of the oily phase and the volatile solvent(s) are first mixed together and then, in a second step, the components of the powdered phase are added to the mixture obtained.

[0152] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the quantity of oily phase and the quantity of powdery phase are such that the weight ratio of oily phase / powdery phase varies from 20 / 80 to 45 / 55, preferably from 25 / 75 to 40 / 60.

[0153] Volatile organic solvents may be selected from water, C2-C4 monoalcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, ethers such as dicaprylyl ether, volatile cyclic or linear silicone oils, and hydrocarbons such as isoparaffins like isododecane. Preferably, isoparaffins such as isododecane will be used.

[0154] According to the present invention, the mixing with the powdered phase can be carried out with any type of mixer such as a Lodige type mixer.

[0155] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mixed powder can also undergo grinding, for example with an Alpine-type pin mill or a cutting robot.

[0156] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mixing of volatile solvents can be carried out in any suitable container such as a bowl. It can also be carried out in a planetary mixer. The required dispersion time is not limited and may depend on certain factors such as the type of mixer. For example, if a planetary mixer is used, the dispersion time can vary from 15 to 20 minutes.

[0157] The total quantity of oily phase, powdered phase and volatile solvent is not limited. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio of the total quantity of oily phase and powdered phase to the quantity of volatile solvent(s) can be 5 / 1, preferably 3 / 1, and more preferably 2 / 1.

[0158] If necessary, degassing can be carried out during the mixing step. The oil phase, the powder phase, and the volatile solvent(s) can be mixed in a vacuum chamber. The degassing time may depend on factors such as the pressure in the vacuum chamber. It can vary from 15 to 20 minutes. It is best to agitate the slurry for effective degassing.

[0159] Formatting step

[0160] In this step, the slurry is injected and then shaped in a container such as a bucket or mold by compaction, in particular pressing and / or suction. Preferably, this is done by

[0161] A cup or a bowl can be used as a container. The container may have small openings that allow only the solvent to escape by suction.

[0162] Examples of methods for pouring the sludge into the container include injection through the top of the container (“top injection”) or injection through the back of the container (“back injection”).

[0163] According to the so-called “top injection” method, the slurry is poured into the container from above. This method is particularly suitable for the preparation of compact, multicoloured powders.

[0164] According to the so-called “back injection” method, the sludge is injected from the bottom of the container by means of a suitable mechanism for introducing it into the container. In particular, a machine called the Pilot Back Injection machine sold by NANYO CO.LTD is used.

[0165] This injection method is suitable for a wide range of pressed makeup powders and is particularly well-suited for obtaining complex-shaped pressed powders. The powder introduced into the container is molded by compression and / or suction. Preferably, compression and suction are carried out simultaneously.

[0166] Compaction, in particular pressing, can be carried out by applying pressure to the slurry in the container by mechanical means such as a press with a flat or uneven surface (possibility of relief). Suction can be carried out, for example, by reducing the pressure in the container by vacuum. Compaction, in particular pressing and suction, can be repeated several times. If necessary, vibration can be applied to the container and / or the press.

[0167] Drying stage

[0168] In this step, the molded slurry is dried to obtain a compact powder free of volatile solvent or containing a very small amount of volatile solvent. By drying, the remaining volatile solvent(s) can be completely removed. The drying temperature and time depend on several factors, such as the components of the composition and the type of volatile solvent used. For example, drying can be carried out at a temperature of 60 to 100°C for a period of 1 to 12 hours.

[0169] Cosmetic process

[0170] The invention also relates to a method for coating keratinous materials, more particularly for makeup and / or care of keratinous materials, such as skin, particularly the face or eyelids, characterized in that it comprises the application to said keratinous materials of a composition as defined above.

[0171] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be a powder, a foundation, a blush or an eyeshadow.

[0172] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be applied by means of any applicator suitable for compact powders intended to be applied to the face or eyelids such as a powder puff or a brush.

[0173] Such compositions are notably prepared according to the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

[0174] Together

[0175] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic set or kit comprising: (i) a container delimiting one or more compartments(d), said container being closed by a closing element and possibly not watertight; and ii) a makeup and / or skincare composition according to the invention arranged inside said compartment(s).

[0176] The container may, for example, be in the form of a jar or a case. The closure element may be in the form of a lid comprising a mounted hood that can be moved by translation or pivoting relative to the container housing the makeup and / or skincare composition(s).

[0177] Said cosmetic set can be associated with an applicator such as a puff, a foam applicator or a brush.

[0178] Cosmetic additives

[0179] The composition may contain conventional cosmetic additives such as fat-soluble colouring materials, preservatives, perfumes, antioxidants, moisturizing agents, lipophilic actives such as vitamins, lipophilic UV filters.

[0180] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0181] Fat-soluble coloring agents

[0182] A composition according to the invention may include at least one fat-soluble coloring material and preferably at a rate of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0183] For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the color effect sought and the colonic intensity provided by the coloring materials considered and its adjustment clearly falls within the competence of the person skilled in the art.

[0184] By "liposoluble colouring material", in the sense of the invention, is meant any compound generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with a fat and capable of colouring.

[0185] Fat-soluble colorants suitable for the invention may include, in particular, synthetic or natural fat-soluble colorants such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotenes (3-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin.

[0186] Cosmetic applications

[0187] The composition used according to the invention may be a care and / or makeup composition for keratinous materials, in particular for the skin, cheeks and eyelids.

[0188] More specifically, the composition according to the invention is a skin care and / or makeup product, in particular for the face, cheeks or eyelids, and more particularly a foundation powder, a blush or an eyeshadow.

[0189] Such compositions are notably prepared according to the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

[0190] Packaging and application assembly or kit

[0191] The present invention also relates to an assembly, or kit, for the packaging and application of a cosmetic composition for coating keratinous materials, comprising: - a packaging device comprising said cosmetic composition of keratinous material coating as previously described, - an applicator of said composition.

[0192] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a makeup set comprising: i) an applicator ii) a composition according to the invention arranged inside a container.

[0193] The container may delimit one or more compartment(s). The container may, for example, be in the form of a tube.

[0194] Such an applicator may be attached to a cap mounted reversibly on said container between a closing position of said container and a makeup position.

[0195] Alternatively, such an applicator can be irreversibly mounted on said container. Examples of such applicators include felt-tip pens and brushes, which may be made of synthetic fibers.

[0196] It is understood that within the framework of the present invention, the weight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds are always expressed as a percentage of the total weight of the composition.

[0197] Throughout the application, the expression "includes a" or "comprises a" should be understood as meaning "containing at least one" or "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0198] It is understood that the following examples are given for illustrative purposes only and are in no way limiting the scope of protection conferred by this application.

[0199] Example 1 (invention) and example 1 (outside invention) of face powders

[0200] The following compositions were prepared.

[0201] [Tables 1] Phase Ingrédients Ex 1 (invention) Ex la (hors invention) Ex 1b (hors invention) A LAUROYL LYSINE (AMIHOPE LL® - AJINOMOTO) 5 5 5 BORON NITRIDE (SOFTOUCH BORON NITRIDE CC6058® - MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS) 3 3 3 SILICA (SOLASPHERE H-53®-Asahi Glass AGC SLTECH) 1 1 1 CALCIUM ALUMINUM BORO-SILICATE (LUXSIL COSMETIC MICROSPHERES® - POTTERS) 2 2 2 MAGNESIUM STEARATE 2 2 2 PERLITE (PERLITE-M SZ12® - Miyoshi Kase)i qsp 100 0 0 MICA (MEARLMICA SV® - COLORS AND EFFECTS / SUN CHEMICAL) 0,9 0,9 0,9 MICA (SERICITE SL® - SL HORIE KAKO) 26 26 26 TALC IMERCARE PHARMA 5T® - IMERYS) 0 qsp 100 0 TALC (and) METHICONE (SL2 TALC JA-46R® (NC) - DAITO KASEI KOGYO) 0 0 qsp 100 SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE 10 10 10 B TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891) (HOMBITAN FF PHARMA® -VENATOR) 0.75 0.75 0.75 YELLOWIRON OXIDES (CI 77492) (SUNPURO YELLOW IRON OXIDE C33-9001® - SUN) 1.1 1.1 1.1 RED IRON OXIDES (CI 77491) (SUNPURO RED IRON OXIDE C33-8001® - SUN) 0.53 0.53 0.53 BLACK IRON OXIDES (CI 77499) (SUNPURO BLACK IRON OXIDE C33-7001® - SUN) 0.2 0.2 0.2 C SQUALANE 10 10 10 HYDROGENATED POLY-ISOBUTENE 3.6 3.6 3.6 SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE (SPAN-120® - CRODA) 0.1 0.1 0.1 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.5 0.5 0.5 HYDROGENATED STYRENE / BUTADIENE COPOLYMER (ELLAMERA TER SET 503® -KRATON POLYMERS) 0.7 0.7 0.7 C12-C15 ALKYL BENZOATE (C12 / C15 BENZOATE (DUB B1215) - STEARINERIE DUBOIS) 7.7 7.7 7.7 ISODODECANE 0.1 0.1 0 Composition preparation protocol

[0202] 1. Preparation of phases A and B

[0203] The ingredients of phase A and the pigments of phase B were weighed in a large stainless steel bowl.

[0204] Phase A was ground in a robot cutter: 1 time for 15 seconds at 1500 rpm and then 3 times for 1 minute at 3000 rpm.

[0205] 2. Incorporation of phase C:

[0206] The ingredients of phase C (excluding isododecane) were heated (in a water bath at 75°C). Once phase C had melted, it was stirred using a deflocculator until a vortex forms (approximately 300 rpm) then it was introduced under agitation via the lid of the robot-cut: 1 time per minute at 1500 rpm.

[0207] The whole was ground in the Robot-coupe: 1 time 1 minute at 1500rpm, then 2 times 2 minutes at 3000rpm and 1 time 1 minute at 3000rpm.

[0208] 3. Preparation of the slurry:

[0209] The previously obtained mixture was diluted in a large quantity of isododecane to obtain the desired viscosity of the "powder / solvent" mixture. This paste was injected from the bottom (back injection) into the cups using a Pilot Back Injection machine sold by NANYO CO.LTD.

[0210] 4. Mud injection:

[0211] The back injection machine allowed the powder-solvent mixture, or slurry, to be injected from the bottom of the cup while simultaneously aspirating some of the dilution solvent. Throughout the injection process, the injection mold was kept under vacuum to allow the removal of isododecane, which was aspirated and collected in the vacuum trap. This vacuum facilitated the filling and homogenization of the cup.

[0212] The bottom-injected parts were then placed in a ventilated oven at 45°C until their weight stabilized. The product was then considered dry.

[0213] Example 1b outside the scope of the invention obtained by a conventional dry process (outside the scope of the invention)

[0214] Composition 1b without isododecane was prepared in the following manner:

[0215] Dry preparation protocol

[0216] 1. Preparation of phases A and B

[0217] The ingredients of phase A and the pigments of phase B were weighed in a large stainless steel bowl.

[0218] Phase A was ground in a robot cutter: 1 time for 15 seconds at 1500 rpm and then 3 times for 1 minute at 3000 rpm.

[0219] 2. Incorporation of phase C:

[0220] The ingredients of phase C, excluding isododecane, were heated in a bain-marie at 75°C. When phase C was melted, it was stirred using a deflocculator until a vortex formed (approximately 300 rpm) and then introduced under agitation via the lid of the robot-cutter: 1 time per minute at 1500 rpm.

[0221] The whole was ground in the Robot-coupe: 1 time 1 minute at 1500rpm, then 2 times 2 minutes at 3000rpm and 1 time 1 minute at 3000rpm.

[0222] 3. Compacting the powder by traditional press:

[0223] The bulk mixture was loaded, respecting a determined weight, into a container, which was itself placed in a support of the same dimensions. A fabric was placed on its surface, followed by an imprint the size of the container. The assembly, thus installed, was pressed at a pressure of 40 kgf / cm2 to form a complexion composition in the form of a compacted powder.

[0224] Transparency measurement

[0225] A piece of Supplale® was placed on the heating plate to temper it to 32°C.

[0226] Each product to be tested was sampled by performing 3 times a transverse movement, holding the sponge at an angle of approximately 45° to the surface of the powder and parallel to the direction of the movement.

[0227] Next, each product to be tested was applied to the Supplale by making a single transverse movement while holding the sponge at an angle of approximately 45° to the surface of the Supplale® and parallel to the direction of the movement. The application area is approximately 7 cm long across the width of the sponge.

[0228] The result obtained was then noted on a scale of 0 to 5 according to intensity relative to pre-established limits. 5 is equivalent to very good 4 is equivalent to good 3 is equivalent to medium 2 is equivalent to mediocre 1 is equivalent to low 0 is equivalent to impossible.

[0229] A difference of at least 1 is considered significant.

[0230] Evaluation of Matity

[0231] A protocol for evaluating matte finish was implemented on a panel of 10 experienced individuals. Matte finish is observed on the skin after application.

[0232] The panel gives a score from 0 to 5. 0 corresponds to a shiny powder. 5 corresponds to a matte powder.

[0233] A difference of at least 1 is considered significant.

[0234] Sensory Assessment

[0235] An evaluation protocol was implemented on a panel of 10 experienced individuals, and the result concerning: - the texture of the powder, - the sensory experience, and in particular the softness to the touch, the creaminess, the smoothness when scooping, - the application (quantity taken, ease of application, adhesion to the application), - the makeup result: uniformity, powdery effect, coverage, colour effect, matte finish, comfort throughout the day, hold and ease of removal of a composition according to the invention evaluated by the same persons.

[0236] The panel gives a score from 0 to 10. 0 corresponds to a powder that does not meet any of the above parameters. 10 corresponds to a powder satisfying all the above parameters.

[0237] A difference of at least 1 is considered significant.

[0238] The results of the comparative tests are shown in the table below:

[0239] [Tables2] Evaluations Exl (invention) without talc Ex la (non-invention) with talc Transparency 5 4 Evaluation of matte finish after application 5 4 Sensory evaluation 9 6

[0240] [Tables3] Evaluations Exl (invention) wet process Ex 1b (non-invention) dry process Sensory evaluation 9 1

Claims

Demands

1. A solid composition in the form of a compact powder, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium and containing at least: A) an oily phase in an amount of at least 10.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said oily phase comprising a) at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and at least one non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil; and B) a powdery phase in an amount of at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said powdery phase comprising at least: i) at least two lamellar fillers of different natures; and ii) pearlite; and iii) at least one spherical filler selected from mineral fillers, organic fillers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof; and iii) at least one particulate coloring agent; and C) at least one amorphous hydrocarbon sequence copolymer; and D) at least one particulate coloring matter;said composition not containing talc particles, silicone compounds, or microplastic particles; said composition being capable of being obtained by a wet preparation process comprising at least the following steps: (1) mixing the oily phase, the amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer, the powdered phase and at least one volatile solvent to form a slurry; and (2) injecting the slurry into a container and shaping it by compaction, in particular pressing and / or suction, to obtain the composition in the form of a compact powder.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the powder phase content varies from 50 to 85% by weight, preferably from 60 to 80% by weight, relative to its total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, comprising less than 0.5% by weight of residual volatile solvent(s) from the wet preparation process, preferably less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to claim 3, wherein the volatile solvent is selected from water, C2-C4 monoalcohols, ethers, hy- volatile oils drocarbonates, in particular chosen from among the C8-C16 isoparaffins, and more particularly isododecane.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polar non-volatile oil(s) is / are present in the composition of the invention in an amount less than or equal to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s) is / are selected from squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s) is / are present in an amount less than or equal to 50% by weight, and more preferably from 25 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least two lamellar fillers of different natures selected from natural mica, synthetic fluorphlogopite, clays such as magnesium and aluminum silicates, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, barium sulfate, aluminum oxides, N-lauroyl lysine, and mixtures thereof.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least two lamellar fillers of different natures selected from natural mica, synthetic fluorphlogopites, boron nitride, N-lauroyl lysine, and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to claim 10, comprising a mixture including at least one natural mica, one synthetic fluorphlogopite, N-Lauroyl Lysine and one boron nitride.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, or the lamellar fillers are present in a composition according to the present invention at a total content of 10 to 60% by weight, better 20 to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising perlite in a content of 5 to 45% by weight, and more preferably in a content of 25 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the inorganic spherical filler is selected from the group consisting of glass microbeads; silica microbeads, and mixtures thereof.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the naturally occurring organic spherical filler is selected from spherical cellulose beads and / or microcrystalline celluloses in the form of spheres, and mixtures thereof.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the spherical filler(s) in a total quantity from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer is an amorphous copolymer formed by polymerization of an olefin.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefin.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer is a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and C3-C4 ethylene / alkylene blocks.

20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the particulate colouring agent is selected from pigments, nacres, and mixtures thereof.

21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a total content of particulate colouring agent(s) ranging from 5 to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

22. Composition according to claim 19, wherein the pigments are selected from: - titanium dioxide (CI 77891), - red iron oxides (CI 77491), - yellow iron oxides (CI 77492), - black iron oxides (CI 77499), and - their mixtures.

23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one emulsifying non-ionic surfactant of HLB less than or equal to 8, in particular sorbitan isostearate of INCI name: SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE.

24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a foundation powder, a blush or an eyeshadow.

25. Cosmetic set or kit comprising: i) a container delimiting one or more compartments(d), said container being closed by a closing element and optionally being non-watertight; and ii) a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 24, disposed inside said compartment(s).

26. A method for coating keratinous materials, in particular skin, comprising applying to said keratinous materials a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 24.

27. ​​A method for preparing a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 24, characterized in that it comprises at least the following steps: (1) mixing the oily phase, the amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer, the powdered phase and at least one volatile solvent to form a slurry; and (2) injecting the slurry into a container and shaping it by compaction, in particular pressing and / or suction to obtain a compact powder.