COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS COMPRISING AN AMPHIPHILIC LIPID MATERIAL

The combination of fatty alcohol, fatty amide, sugar ether surfactant, and amphoteric surfactant in a hair care composition enhances softness and stability of the pearlescent effect, addressing the challenges of existing compositions.

FR3159515A3Active Publication Date: 2025-08-29LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2024001930
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Utility models
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2024-02-28
Publication Date
2025-08-29
Estimated Expiration
2034-02-28

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing hair care compositions struggle to provide a stable pearlescent effect while maintaining good conditioning properties and improving the softness and revitalization of damaged hair.

Method used

A composition comprising fatty alcohol with a carbon chain of 20 to 26 carbon atoms, fatty amide, sugar ether surfactant, and amphoteric surfactant, particularly lecithin, which enhances softness and provides a pearlescent appearance.

Benefits of technology

The composition improves the softness and revitalization of keratinous fibers, such as hair, while achieving a stable pearlescent effect.

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Abstract

COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS COMPRISING AN AMPHIPHILIC LIPID MATERIAL The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for keratinous fibers, comprising (a) at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms; (b) at least one fatty amide; (c) at least one sugar ether surfactant; and (d) at least one amphiphilic surfactant. The composition according to the present invention has a good pearly appearance while providing keratinous fibers such as hair with improved softness. Figure for abstract: none
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Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS COMPRISING A LIPID MATERIAL AM PHIPHILE Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for keratinous fibers comprising at least one amphoteric surfactant, in particular a hair care composition comprising at least one amphoteric surfactant, as well as a cosmetic process using the composition. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] It is well known that the detangling and softness effects of hair products are widely acclaimed by customers. It is also well known that a hair conditioner is recommended for the treatment of damaged hair that has been sensitized (i.e. damaged and / or weakened) to varying degrees under the action of an atmospheric agent or under the action of mechanical or chemical treatments, such as dyeing, bleaching and / or permanent waving operations. When damaged, the hair is often difficult to detangle and lacks softness. It is well known in the art to use a hair conditioner in compositions for washing or caring for the hair in order to facilitate the detangling of the hair and to obtain the soft and shiny effect.

[0003] For centuries, the soft, shimmering luster of pearls has held a special fascination for human beings. It is therefore not surprising that manufacturers of cosmetic preparations strive to give their products an attractive, precious and rich appearance.

[0004] Although a large number of pearlescent compositions and formulations are known from the prior art, it is often difficult to obtain a pearlescent conditioner with a pearlescent effect that is stable over time while maintaining good conditioning properties.

[0005] For example, WO 2013 / 189037 discloses a personal care composition comprising a time-stable pearlescent revitalizing composition, comprising: a) at least one fatty alcohol containing a fatty chain with at least 22 carbon atoms, b) at least one fatty amide,

[0006] c) at least one alkyl polyglycoside, and d) at least one conditioning agent. It also provides a simplified process for preparing this conditioner at low temperature.

[0007] However, there is still a demand for cosmetic compositions with an improved pearlescent appearance, and which can provide improved revitalizing effects, such than a softening effect on keratinous fibers. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0008] An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition with an improved pearling effect as well as to give a keratinous fiber such as hair an improved revitalizing effect, such as a softening effect.

[0009] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition comprising: a. at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms; b. at least one fatty amide; c. at least one sugar ether surfactant; and d. at least one amphoteric surfactant.

[0010] The (a) fatty alcohol may have a carbon chain containing from 20 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0011] The quantity of the (a) fatty alcohol(s) may range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0012] The (b) fatty amide may be chosen from those formed by reaction of an alkanolamine and a C4-C2s fatty acid.

[0013] The (b) fatty amide may be chosen from Cocamide MIPA, Cocamide MEA (coco monoethanolamide), and mixtures thereof.

[0014] The amount of the (b) fatty amide(s) may range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0015] The (c) sugar ether surfactant may be chosen from alkyl glucoside type surfactants.

[0016] Alkyl glucoside surfactants can be represented by the following general formula:

[0017] E^O-CEUOjXGX

[0018] in which • Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30, preferably 6 to 28, and more preferably 8 to 26 carbon atoms, or an aralkyl radical containing from 7 to 30, preferably 7 to 28, and more preferably 7 to 26 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of Ri denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 with 30 carbon atoms; • R2 represents an alkylene radical containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; • G represents a reduced sugar containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms; • t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10; and • v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15.

[0019] The alkyl glucoside surfactants may be selected from the group consisting of caprylyl / capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside, Ci2_20 alkyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

[0020] The amount of the (c) sugar ether surfactant(s) may range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] The (d) amphoteric surfactant may be chosen from phospholipids.

[0022] The (d) amphoteric surfactant may be chosen from phosphoacylglycerol, more precisely preferably chosen from lecithins.

[0023] The amount of the (d) amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition may range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0024] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one betaine compound, preferably chosen from trimethyl glycine, carnitine and proline betaine, more preferably the betaine compound comprises trimethyl glycine, preferably in an amount ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 2.5% to 7%, and in particular from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0025] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for revitalizing or caring for keratinous fibers, comprising:

[0026] the application to the keratinous fiber of the composition according to the present invention; and

[0027] the optional rinsing of the composition from the keratinous fibers. Best mode for carrying out the invention

[0028] After extensive research, the inventors surprisingly discovered that an addition of the (d) amphoteric surfactant to the combination of ingredients (a) to (c) can impart improved softness to the keratinous fibers. Furthermore, the inventors surprisingly discovered that an addition of the (d) amphiphilic lipid material can make the composition slightly yellowish, which imparts an improved pearly appearance to the composition, and thus finalized the invention.

[0029] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises: a. at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms; b. at least one fatty amide; c. at least one sugar ether surfactant; and d. at least one amphoteric surfactant.

[0030] The present invention can provide keratinous fibers such as hair with improved softness. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be used to revitalize and / or care for keratinous fibers.

[0031] The term "keratinous fibers" herein refers to fibers containing keratin as a main constituent, and examples thereof include hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and the like. It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is used for a cosmetic process for keratinous fibers and, more preferably, hair.

[0032] The composition according to the present invention has an improved pearlescent appearance. Thus, the composition according to the present invention has a more attractive appearance.

[0033] Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in more detail. [Composition]

[0034] The composition according to the present invention comprises: a. at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms; b. at least one fatty amide; c. at least one sugar ether surfactant; and d. at least one amphoteric surfactant.

[0035] The composition according to the present invention will be described in detail below.

[0036] (Fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms)

[0037] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms. A single type of fatty alcohol may be used, or two or more different types of fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

[0038] The carbon chain of the (a) fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, the carbon chain of the (a) fatty alcohol is a saturated carbon chain.

[0039] The carbon chain of the (a) fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. Preferably, the carbon chain of the (a) fatty alcohol is a linear carbon chain.

[0040] In a preferred embodiment, the carbon chain of the (a) fatty alcohol is a linear and saturated carbon chain.

[0041] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from a saturated and unsaturated, linear or branched radical containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms, for example from 20 to 24 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from C20-C24 alkyl and C20-C24 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

[0042] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is a saturated and unsaturated radical containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably from 20 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0043] Examples of (a) fatty alcohol include arachidonyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0044] In a preferred embodiment, the (a) fatty alcohol is selected from fatty alcohols having a linear and saturated carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms, such as arachidonic alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0045] The fatty alcohol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 2% by weight or more, and even more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] The fatty alcohol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, and even more preferably 7% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] The fatty alcohol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and in particular from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] In the context of this patent specification, any combination of the above upper limit values ​​and lower limit values ​​may be available to represent the preferred range of the quantity. (Fatty amide)

[0049] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one fatty amide. A single type of fatty amide may be used, or two or more different types of fatty amides may be used in combination.

[0050] The term "fatty amide" may herein refer to a reaction product of a fatty acid or fatty acid ester with an alkanolamine. The fatty amide may be a type of non-ionic surfactant.

[0051] The term "fatty acid" herein refers to a monofunctional carboxylic acid with an aliphatic chain containing a relatively large amount of carbon atoms.

[0052] The fatty acid may be linear or branched. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is selected from linear fatty acids. The fatty acid may be saturated or unsaturated. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is selected from saturated fatty acids and unsaturated fatty acids having 1 or 2 carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0053] Non-limiting examples of the fatty acid include saturated or unsaturated linear fatty acids having from 4 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms. In particular, the fatty acid may include a mixture of two or more saturated and unsaturated linear fatty acids having from 4 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0054] The fatty acid of the fatty amide may be monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated, and for example may be polyoxyethylenated. Preferably, the fatty acid is not monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated.

[0055] The term "alkanolamine" herein refers to a compound having an alkane skeleton with at least one hydroxy group and at least one amine group.

[0056] The alkane skeleton of the alkanolamine may be linear or branched, and may have 1 to 10, preferably 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0057] The amine group of the alkanolamine may be a primary amine group or a secondary amine group. Preferably, the amine group of the alkanolamine is a primary amine group.

[0058] The (b) fatty amides may include those formed by reaction of an alkanolamine and a C4-C28 fatty acid. These surfactants may be selected from mono-alkanolamides and di-alkanolamides of C6-C24 fatty acids, and preferably from mono-alkanolamides and di-alkanolamides of C8-C22 fatty acids or C8-C20 fatty acids, and may have a C2-3 hydroxyalkyl group.

[0059] The (b) fatty amide may be a fatty acid monoalkanolamide represented by the following general formula:

[0060] RrC(O)-NH-R2

[0061] in which • Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl radical, preferably linear, containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms, or an alkenyl radical containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms; • R2 represents a hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. The term “hydroxyalkyl” denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical in which at least one hydrogen atom is substituted by a hydroxy group (-OH). Hydroxyalkyl may include one or more hydroxy groups, but preferably one hydroxy group.

[0062] In a preferred embodiment, R2 represents a hydroxyalkyl radical where a hydroxy group is located at a terminal of the alkyl chain, namely the hydroxyalkyl has a primary alcohol radical. Thus, the b) fatty amide can be a fatty acid monoalkanolamide represented by the following general formula:

[0063]

[0064] RrC(O)-NH-R3-CH2OH in which Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms, or an alkenyl radical containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms; R3 represents a single bond or a linear or branched alkylene radical, preferably linear, containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0065] The (b) fatty amide may be a fatty acid di-alkanolamide represented by the following general formula:

[0066]

[0067] RrC(O)-N(R2)2 in which Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl radical, preferably linear, containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms, or an alkenyl radical containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms; R2 represent, identical or different, a hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. The term "hydroxyalkyl" denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical in which at least one hydrogen atom is substituted by a hydroxy group (-OH). The hydroxyalkyl may include one or more hydroxy groups, but preferably one hydroxy group.

[0068] The (b) fatty amide may be a fatty acid di-alkanolamide represented by the following general formula:

[0069]

[0070] RrC(O)-N(R3-CH2OH)2 in which Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms, or an alkenyl radical containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms; R3 represents a single bond or a linear or branched alkylene radical, of preferably linear, containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0071] Examples of (b) fatty amides include, but are not limited to:

[0072] oleic acid diethanolamide, oleic acid monoisopropanolamide, myristic acid monoethanolamide, soybean fatty acid diethanolamide, stearic acid ethanolamide, linoleic acid diethanolamide, behenic acid monoethanolamide, isostearic acid monoisopropanolamide, erucic acid diethanolamide, ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide, coconut isopropanolamide (INCI name: Cocamide MIPA), coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide (INCI name: Cocamide MEA), coconut fatty acid diethanolamide, palm kernel fatty acid diethanolamide, lauric monoethanolamide, lauric diethanolamide, lauric isopropanolamide, polyoxyethylenated coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide, and their mixtures.

[0073] In a preferred embodiment, the (b) fatty amide is selected from Cocamide MIPA, Cocamide MEA (coco monoethanolamide), and mixtures thereof.

[0074] The fatty amide(s) (b) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 2% by weight or more, and even more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] The fatty amide(s) (b) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, even more preferably 7% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] The fatty amide(s) (b) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0077] In one embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio between the (a) fatty alcohol(s) and the (b) fatty amide(s) included in the composition may be from 10:1 to 1:10, preferably from 5:1 to 1:5, and more preferably from 3:1 to 1:3, and even more preferably from 2:1 to 1:2. (Sugar ether surfactant)

[0078] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one sugar ether surfactant. A single type of sugar ether surfactant may be used, or two or more different types of sugar ether surfactants may be used in combination.

[0079] The (c) sugar ether surfactant is a surfactant that has at least one sugar moiety and at least one ether linkage. The sugar ether surfactant may be a type of ten- non-ionic sioactives.

[0080] It is preferable that the (c) sugar ether is chosen from alkyl glucoside type surfactants.

[0081] The alkyl glucoside surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of alkyl glucosides and alkyl polyglucosides.

[0082] The alkyl glucoside surfactant can be represented by the following general formula:

[0083] R10-(R20)t(G)v

[0084] in which • Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30, preferably 6 to 28, and more preferably 8 to 26 carbon atoms, or an aralkyl radical containing from 7 to 30, preferably 7 to 28, and more preferably 7 to 26 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of Ri denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; • R2 represents an alkylene radical containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; • G represents a reduced sugar containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms; • t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10; and • v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15.

[0085] The reduced sugar containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms represented by G in the above formula may be selected from the group consisting of glucose, fructose and galactose.

[0086] The alkyl glucoside surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of caprylyl / capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside, Ci2_20 alkyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

[0087] Examples of alkylpolyglucoside surfactant that may be cited include decylglucoside (alkyl-C9 / Cn-polyglucoside (1.4)), for example the product sold under the name MYDOL 10 by the company Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name PLANTAREN 2000 UP and Plantacare 2000 UP by the company BASF, and the product sold under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by the company Seppic; caprylyl / capryl glucoside for example the product sold under the name Oramix CG 110 by the company SEPPIC or under the name Lutensol GD 70 by BASF; laurylglucoside for example the products sold under the names Plantaren 1200 N and Plantacare 1200 by the company Henkel; coco-glucoside, for example the product sold under the name Plantacare 818 / UP by Henkel, cetostearyl glucoside possibly mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name MONTANOV 68 by Seppic, under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302 by Henkel, arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of alcohols. arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV 202 by Seppic, cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of a mixture (35 / 65) with cetyl and stearyl alcohols, marketed under the name MONTANOV 82 by Seppic, a Ci2_20 alkyl glucoside, for example, in the form of a mixture with Ci4-22 alcohols, marketed under the name MONTANOV L by Seppic, and mixtures thereof.

[0088] The (c) sugar ether surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 1.5% by weight or more, and even more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] The (c) sugar ether surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, even more preferably 7% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0090] The (c) sugar ether surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably 1.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] In one embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio of the (a) fatty alcohol(s) to the (c) sugar ether surfactant(s) included in the composition may be from 10:1 to 1:10, preferably from 5:1 to 1:5, more preferably from 3:1 to 1:3, and even more preferably from 2:1 to 1:2.

[0092] In one embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio of the (b) fatty amide(s) to the (c) sugar ether surfactant(s) included in the composition may be from 10:1 to 1:10, preferably from 5:1 to 1:5, more preferably from 3:1 to 1:3, and even more preferably from 2:1 to 1:2. (Amphoteric surfactant)

[0093] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one amphoteric surfactant. A single type of amphoteric surfactant may be used, or two or more different types of amphoteric surfactants may be used in combination.

[0094] The amphoteric surfactant(s), which is (are) preferably non-silicone, used in the composition according to the present invention may be one or more derivatives of optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, derivatives in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate.

[0095] The amphoteric surfactant may preferably be chosen from the group consisting of betaines and amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives.

[0096] The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines and alkylami-doalkylsulfobetaines, in particular, (C8-C24)alkylbetaines, (C8-C24)alkylamido(Ci-C8)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines and (C8-C24)alkylamido(Ci-C8)alkylsulfobetaines. In one embodiment, the betaine-type amphoteric surfactants are selected from (C8-C24)alkylbetaines, (C8-C24)alkylamido(Ci-C8)alkylsulfobetaines, sulfobetaines and phosphobetaines.

[0097] The amphoteric surfactant used may preferably be chosen from phospholipids. These phospholipids are preferably chosen from phosphoacyl-glycerol, more preferably chosen from lecithins.

[0098] The lecithin according to the present invention can come from soybeans, sunflowers, eggs, and mixtures thereof. In a particular embodiment, the lecithin comes from soybeans, such as that sold under the name EMULMETIK 100 J by the company CARGILL.

[0099] The amount of the (d) amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.3% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0100] Furthermore, the amount of the (d) amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and, more preferably, 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0101] The amount of the (d) amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Other optional ingredients)

[0102] - Water

[0103] The composition according to the present invention may include water.

[0104] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention includes water.

[0105] The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or more, preferably 40% by weight or more and more preferably 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 85% by weight or less, and more preferably 75% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 30% to 95% by weight, preferably from 40% to 85% by weight and more preferably from 50% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0108] - Oil

[0109] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be the same or different.

[0110] Herein "oil" means a fatty compound or a fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0111] The optional ingredient of the oil herein is selected from oils other than the above (a) fatty alcohol.

[0112] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0113] The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, hydrocarbon oils, fatty alcohols other than (a) fatty alcohol, and fatty acids.

[0114] Examples of vegetable oils include apricot oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0115] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0116] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

[0117] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0118] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0119] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, stearate isocetyl, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0120] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0121] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylethylethylyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.

[0122] As ester oils, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and, preferably, C12-C22 fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates compounds based on oxygen-bearing hydrocarbons containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0123] Examples of suitable sugars include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkylated derivatives, such as methylated derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0124] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C6-C30, and preferably C12-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0125] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0126] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as tetraethyl pentaerythrityl hexanoate.

[0127] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0128] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name GlucateDO by the Amerchol company, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0129] Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0130] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0131] The hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from: • lower C6-C16 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that may be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.

[0132] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or vaseline, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0133] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.

[0134] The fatty alcohol as an optional oily ingredient is selected from fatty alcohols other than (a) fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms. Thus, the fatty alcohol as an optional oily ingredient may be selected from fatty alcohols having a carbon chain containing from 4 to 19 carbon atoms. carbon and / or fatty alcohols having a carbon chain containing 27 or more carbon atoms.

[0135] The fatty acids that may be used in the composition of the present disclosure may be saturated or unsaturated and comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. As non-limiting examples, they may be selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid.

[0136] It may be preferable for the oil to be chosen from synthetic ester oils, fatty alcohols having a carbon chain containing from 4 to 17 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0137] The amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0138] - Solid fatty compound

[0139] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one solid fatty compound. A single type of solid fatty compound or a combination of different types of solid fatty compounds may be used.

[0140] Herein a “solid fatty compound” means a fatty compound or a fatty substance which is in the form of a solid at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0141] The solid fatty compound may be chosen from a group consisting of solid alkanes, non-silicone oils of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol, non-silicone wax, provided that they are solid at room temperature and under atmospheric pressure.

[0142] The amount of the solid fatty compound(s) in the above composition may be from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] - Hydrophilic thickener

[0144] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic thickener. A single type of hydrophilic thickener or a combination of different types of hydrophilic thickeners may be used.

[0145] The term "hydrophilic" herein refers to materials soluble in water at a concentration of 1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

[0146] The hydrophilic thickener(s) may be one or more thickeners natural or synthetic hydrophilic thickener(s). The hydrophilic thickener(s) may preferably be chosen from thick polymers thickening polymers bearing sugar units, such as non-associative thickening polymers bearing sugar units.

[0147] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “sugar unit” means an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprises at least 4 carbon atoms.

[0148] The sugar units may optionally be modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.

[0149] The sugar units that may be included in the hydrophilic thickening polymers of the present invention are preferably derived from one or more of the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

[0150] It is preferable to choose the thickener from among polysaccharides.

[0151] Thickening polymers containing sugar units which may in particular be mentioned include native gums such as: a. tree or shrub exudates, including: • gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); • gum ghatti (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); • karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); • gum tragacanth (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); a. gums derived from algae, including: • agar-agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); • alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); • carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); a. gums derived from seeds or tubers, including: • guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); • carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); • fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); • tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); • konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); a. microbial gums, including: • xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); • gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); • scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer); a. plant extracts, including: • cellulose (glucose polymer); • starch (glucose polymer) and • inulin.

[0152] These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. As a physical treatment, temperature can in particular be mentioned.

[0153] Chemical treatments that may be cited include esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments can lead to polymers that may in particular be non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric.

[0154] Preferably, the thickening polymers carrying sugar units are not chemically or physically treated.

[0155] The non-ionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention can be modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0156] Among the C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, by way of example, of the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0157] These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides, for example, propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

[0158] The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum.

[0159] Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.

[0160] Among the starches that can be used, mention may be made, for example, of macromolecules in the form of polymers comprising basic units which are anhydroglucose units. The number of these units and their assembly make it possible to distinguish amylose (linear polymer) from amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, may vary depending on the botanical origin of the starches.

[0161] The botanical origin of the starch molecules that can be used in the present invention can be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, among corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

[0162] Starches can be chemically or physically modified, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.

[0163] According to the invention, amphoteric starches may also be used, these amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of the carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of the primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.

[0164] The starches may optionally be C1-C6 hydroxyalkylated or C1-C6 alkylated (such as acetylated). The starches may also have undergone heat treatments.

[0165] The non-associative thickening polymers of the invention may be cellulose-based polymers not comprising a C10-C30 fatty chain in their structure.

[0166] According to the invention, the expression "cellulose-based polymer" designates any polysaccharide compound having in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together via [3-1,4] bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

[0167] Thus, the cellulose polymers which can be used according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.

[0168] Among these cellulose-based polymers, we distinguish cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers.

[0169] Cellulose esters include inorganic cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetobutyrates, acetopropionates and acetotrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetobutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetopropionate sulfates. Cellulose ester ethers include hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

[0170] Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers without a C10-C30 fatty chain, i.e. which are “non-associative”, mention may be made of (C1-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses; ethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (e.g., Natrosol 250 HHR supplied by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (e.g., Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl-(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (e.g., Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical); hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses, (e.g., Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

[0171] Among the anionic cellulose ethers without fatty chain, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and their sodium salts.

[0172] Among the cationic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain, mention may be made of cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US patent 4,131,576, such as (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl celluloses, for example hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.

[0173] The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, can, for example, range from 0.4 to 1.2.

[0174] The amount of the hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0175] -Betdine compound

[0176] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one betaine compound. A single type of specific betaine compound may be used, or two or more different types of betaine compounds may be used in combination.

[0177] The term "betaine compound" herein refers to an amphoteric compound having a positively charged cationic moiety and a negatively charged anionic moiety, wherein no hydrogen atom is bonded to a positively charged atom in the positively charged cationic moiety, and the positively charged cationic moiety is not adjacent to the negatively charged anionic moiety.

[0178] For the purposes of the present invention, the betaine compound herein is not a surfactant, which comprises at least one hydrophilic portion and at least one hydrophobic portion, such as hydrocarbon groups having 8 or more carbon atoms. Thus, the betaine compound herein is different from (d) amphoteric surfactant.

[0179] The positively charged cationic moiety in the betaine compound includes, but is not limited to, a quaternary ammonium cation, a phosphonium cation, and a sulfonium cation. Preferably, the betaine includes a quaternary ammonium cation as the positively charged cationic moiety.

[0180] The negatively charged anionic moiety in the betaine compound includes, but is not limited to, a carboxylate anion.

[0181] The molecular weight of the betaine compound is not particularly limited, but generally 1000 or less, preferably 500 or less, and more preferably 300 or less. Unless otherwise indicated in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means a number average molecular weight.

[0182] The betaine compound is preferably chosen from trimethyl glycine, carnitine and proline betaine or stachydrine, and more preferably the betaine compound comprises trimethyl glycine.

[0183] The amount of the betaine compound(s) in the composition may range from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2.5% to 7% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0184] - Cationic surfactant

[0185] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one cationic surfactant. If two or more cationic surfactants are used, they may be the same or different.

[0186] The cationic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

[0187] Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be cited include, but are not limited to:

[0188] those of general formula (B3) below:

[0189] in which • R1, R2, R2, and R4, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched aliphatic radicals including from 1 to 30 atoms of carbon and optionally including heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. Aliphatic radicals may be selected, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene C 2-C 6 alkylamide, (C 12-C 22 )alkylamido(C 2-C 6 )alkyl, (C 12-C 22 )alkylacetate and hydroxyalkyl radicals; and aromatic radicals such as aryl and alkylaryl; and X is selected from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 2-C 6 )alkyl sulfates and alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates;

[0190] imidazoline quaternary ammonium salts, for example those of formula (B4) below:

[0191] in which: • R5 is chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derivatives of tallow or coconut fatty acids; • R6 is chosen from hydrogen, C1-C4 alkyl radicals and alkenyl and alkyl radicals including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; • R7 is chosen from C1-C4 alkyl radicals; • R8 is chosen from hydrogen and CrC4 alkyl radicals; and • X is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates and alkylaryl sulfonates. In one embodiment, R5 and R6 are, for example, a mixture of radicals selected from alkenyl and alkyl radicals including from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as tallow fatty acid derivatives, R7 is methyl and R8 is hydrogen. Examples of these products include, but are not limited to, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) and Quatemium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are sold under the names “Rewoquat” W75, W90, W / 75PG and W75HPG by Witco;

[0192] the quaternary di- or tri-ammonium salts of formula (B5): r „ , (B5) ; Rw R<2 | N —(CHs)s ----- N — [ j

[0193] in which: • R9 is chosen from aliphatic radicals including from 16 to 30 carbon atoms; • Rio is chosen from hydrogen or alkyl radicals including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3 (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a)N+X-_; • Ru, R12, Rb, Ru, Ri6a, Ri7a, and Ri8a, which may be the same or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl radicals including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and • X is chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethyl sulfates and methyl sulfates.

[0194] An example of such a quaternary di-ammonium salt is FINQUAT CT-P from FINETEX (Quatemium-89) or FINQUAT CT (Quatemium-75);

[0195] and

[0196] quaternary ammonium salts including at least one ester function, such as those of formula (B6) below:

[0197] Q (CsH2sO)z—R25 (B6) II R24---C---(OC,H,2(OH)„),---N — (GHefOHJd-OJx—R23 x~ R22

[0198] in which: • R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl radicals and hydroxyalkyl radicals and C1-C6 dihydroxyalkyl; • R23 is chosen from:

[0199] the radical below:

[0200] the radicals R27 based on saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched C1-C22 hydrocarbons, and hydrogen, • R25 is chosen from:

[0201] the radical below: f '

[0202] radicals R29 based on saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched C1-C6 hydrocarbons, and hydrogen, • R24, R26 and R28, which may be the same or different, are chosen from: C7 to C2i saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched hydrocarbon groups; • r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 2 to 6; • each of rl and tl, which may be the same or different, is equal to 0 or 1, and r2+rl=2r and t l+2t=2t; • y is chosen from an integer ranging from 1 to 10; • x and z, which can be the same or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 10; • X is selected from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions; provided that the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 15, that when x is equal to 0, R23 denotes R27 and that when z is equal to 0, R25 denotes R29. R22 may be selected from linear and branched alkyl radicals. In one embodiment, R22 is selected from linear alkyl radicals. In another embodiment, R22 is selected from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl and dihydroxypropyl radicals, for example methyl and ethyl radicals. In one embodiment, the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 10. When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R27, it may be long and include from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and include from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R 25 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R29, it may include, for example, from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.By way of non-limiting example, in one embodiment, R24, R26 and R28, which may be the same or different, are selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated Cn-C2i hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example, from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated Cn-C2[ alkyl and alkenyl radicals. In another embodiment, x and z, which may be the same or different, are 0 or 1. In one embodiment, y is 1. In another embodiment, r, s and t, which may be the same or different, are 2 or 3, for example 2. The anion X may be selected, for example, from halides, such as chloride, bromide and iodide; and C1-C4 alkyl sulfates such as methyl sulfate.However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate and lactate, and any other anion that is compatible with ammonium including an ester function, are other non-limiting examples of anions that can be used according to the present invention. In one embodiment, Fanion X is selected from chloride and methyl sulfate.

[0203] In another embodiment, the ammonium salts of formula (B6) may be used, wherein: • R22 is chosen from methyl and ethyl radicals, • x and y are equal to 1; • z is equal to 0 or 1; • r, s and t are equal to 2; • R23 is chosen from:

[0204] the radical below:

[0205] methyl, ethyl and C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and hydrogen; • R25 is chosen from:

[0206] the radical below: O '

[0207] and hydrogen; • R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from the linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon radicals, for example among linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.

[0208] In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.

[0209] Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (B6) that may be cited include salts, for example chloride and methyl sulfate, of diiacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, diiacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, mono-acyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethyl-ammonium, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl radicals may include from 14 to 18 carbon atoms, and may be derived, for example, from a vegetable oil, for example palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl radicals, these radicals may be the same or different.

[0210] These products can be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or optionally oxyalkylenated alkyldiisopropanolamine on fatty acids or on mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification can be followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin and glycerol chlorohydrin.

[0211] The quaternary ammonium salts cited above which can be used in the composition according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, those corresponding to formula (I), for example tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for example dialkyldimethylammonium and alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical includes from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride; palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name "Ceraphyl70" by the Van Dyk company.

[0212] According to one embodiment, the cationic surfactant which can be used in the composition according to the present invention is chosen from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, quaternium-80, quaternium-83, quaternium-87, quaternium-22, behenylamidopropyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.

[0213] The amount of the cationic surfactant(s) may be from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0214] - Silicone

[0215] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one silicone. Only one type of silicone may be used, but two or more different types of silicone may be used in combination.

[0216] The silicone may be selected from the group consisting of polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional moiety selected from poly(oxyalkylene) moieties, amine or amino moieties, alkoxy moieties, hydroxyl moieties, acyloxyalkyl moieties, carboxylic acid moieties, hydroxyacylamino moieties, acrylic moieties, polyamine moieties and oxazoline moieties, and silicone-based celluloses.

[0217] Suitable silicones for the present invention include, but are not limited to, volatile and non-volatile, cyclic, linear and branched silicones, optionally modified with organic moieties, having a viscosity ranging from 5x106 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, for example, from 1x105 to 1 m2 / s.

[0218] The silicones which may be used for the present invention may be soluble or insoluble in the composition and may be, for example, polyorganosiloxanes which are not soluble in the composition. They may be in a form selected from fluids, waxes, resins and gums.

[0219] Organopolysiloxanes are defined, for example, by Walter NOLL in "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0220] When they are volatile, the silicones can be chosen from those having a boiling point ranging from 60°C to 260°C, for example: i. cyclic polydialkyl siloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, for example from 4 to 5, silicon atoms. Non-limiting examples of these siloxanes include octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane marketed, for example, under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE 7207 by UNION CARBIDE and SILBIONE 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane marketed under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as mixtures thereof. Cyclomethicones may also be used, for example, those marketed under the references DC 244, DC 245, DC 344, DC 345 and DC 246 by DOW CORNING. Cyclocopolymers of the dimethyl siloxane / methylalkyl siloxane type can also be used, such as SILICONE VOLATILE FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of formula

[0221] in which:

[0222] Combinations of cyclic polydialkyl siloxanes with organic silicon-derived compounds may also be used, such as a mixture of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilyl pentaerythritol (50 / 50), and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane; and i. linear volatile polydialkyl siloxanes comprising from 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity equal to or less than 5x106 m2 / s at 25 °C. A non-limiting example of such a compound is decamethyl tetrasiloxane marketed, for example, under the trade name “SH-200” by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones belonging to this class are also described, for example, in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27 to 32—TODD & BYERS “Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics”.

[0223] In at least one embodiment, the silicones may be chosen from non-volatile silicones, such as polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, waxes, gums, silicone resins and polyorganosiloxanes modified with the above organofunctional moieties.

[0224] According to one embodiment, the silicones may be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups known under the trade name dimethicones. The viscosity of these silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.

[0225] Non-limiting examples of commercial products corresponding to these polydial-kylsiloxanes include: • SILBIONE fluids from the 47 and 70 047 ranges and MIRASIL fluids marketed by RHODIA, for example fluid 70 047 V 500 000; • fluids from the MIRASIL range marketed by RHODIA; • fluids from the 200 range marketed by DOW CORNING such as DC200, viscosity 60,000 mm2 / s; • GENERAL ELECTRIC VISCASIL fluids and certain fluids in the SF range (for example, SF 96 and SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC; and • the fluid marketed under the reference DC 1664 by DOW CORNING.

[0226] Polydimethyl siloxanes having dimethyl silanol end groups can also be used, for example, those sold under the trade name dhne-thiconol (CTFA), such as the fluids of the 48 range marketed by RHODIA.

[0227] Products marketed under the trade names “AB IL Wax9800 and 9801” by GOLDSCHMIDT belonging to this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes, can also be used.

[0228] Polydimethylsiloxane waxes may also be used.

[0229] Suitable silicone gums for the present invention include, but are not limited to, polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes having high number average molecular weights ranging from 200,000 to 1,000,000, alone or as mixtures in a solvent. This solvent may be selected from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) fluids, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) fluids, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane, and mixtures thereof. The silicone gums may also be selected, for example, from amodimethicones (aminosilicones), such as the products marketed under the references DC 929 Emulsion and DC 939 Emulsion by DOW CORNING.

[0230] According to at least one embodiment, combinations of silicones may also be used, such as: • mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end of the chain, or dimethicool (CTFA), and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2 1401 marketed by DOW CORNING; • mixtures of polydimethylsiloxane gum and cyclic silicone, such as that the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid marketed by GENERAL ELECTRIC; this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a di-methicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000, solubilized in SF 1202 Silicone Fluid, a product corresponding to a decamethylcyclopentasilane; • mixtures of two PDMS of different viscosities, for example, mixtures of a PDMS gum and a PDMS fluid, such as the product SF 1236 marketed by GENERAL ELECTRIC. The product SF 1236 is a mixture of SE 30 gum defined above, with a viscosity of 20 m2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5x106 m2 / s. Such a product may comprise 15% of an SE 30 gum and 85% of an SF 96 fluid.

[0231] Organopolysiloxane resins suitable for the present invention include, but are not limited to, crosslinked siloxane systems comprising at least one of the following units:

[0232] R2SiO2 / 2, R3SiOi / 2, RSiO3 / 2, and SiO4 / 2, wherein R is an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 16 carbon atoms. According to at least one embodiment, R is a lower C1-C4 alkyl group, such as a methyl group.

[0233] These resins include, for example, the product marketed under the trade name "DOW CORNING 593" and those marketed under the trade names "SILICONE FLUID SS 4230 and SS 4267" by GENERAL ELECTRIC, which are dimethyl / trimethylsiloxane structured silicones.

[0234] Trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins may also be used, for example, those marketed under the trade names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by SHIN-ETSU.

[0235] The polyalkylaryl siloxanes may be chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenyl siloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenyl siloxanes with viscosities ranging from 1x105 to 5x102 m2 / s at 25°C.

[0236] Non-limiting examples of such polyalkylaryl siloxanes include products marketed under the following trade names: • SILBIONE fluids from the 70 641 range from RHODIA; RHODORSIL fluids from the 70 633 and 763 ranges from RHODIA; • the phenyl trimethicone fluid marketed under the reference DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID by DOW CORNING; • silicones from the BAYER PK range, for example the PK20 product; • silicones from the PN and PH ranges from BAYER, for example the products PN1000 and PH1000; and • certain fluids from the GENERAL ELECTRIC SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0237] The organomodified silicones that can be used according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, silicones such as those defined above and comprising at least one organofunctional moiety linked directly or by means of a hydrocarbon group within their structure.

[0238] The organomodified silicones may include, for example, polyorganosiloxanes comprising: • polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy fractions optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl fractions, such as the products called di-methicone copolyols marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name DC 1248 and under the trade name DC Q2-5220 and the fluids SILWET L 722, L 7500, L 77, and L 711 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, and the (Ci2)alkyl-methicone copolyol marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name Q2 5200; • optionally substituted amine moieties, for example, the products marketed under the trade name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by GENESEE and the products marketed under the trade names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 and 939 by DOW CORNING. Substituted amine moieties may be selected, for example, from C 1 -C 4 alkyl amino moieties. The amino silicones may have additional C 1 -C 4 alkoxy functional groups; • alkoxylated fractions, such as the product marketed under the name “SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755” by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX 2428, 2434 and 2440 by Goldschmidt; • hydroxylated fractions, such as polyorganosiloxanes containing hydroxyalkyl functions described, for example, in French patent application No. FR-A-85 163 34; • acyloxyalkyl moieties, for example the polyorganosiloxanes described in US Patent No. 4,957,732; • anionic moieties of the carboxylic acid type, for example, the products described in European Patent No. 0 186 507, marketed by CHISSO CORPORATION, and anionic alkyl carboxylic moieties, such as those present in the product X-22-3701E marketed by SHIN-ETSU; 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; and 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate such as the products marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names “ABILS201” and “ABILS255”; • hydroxyacylamino moieties, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in European patent application No. 0 342 834. A non-limiting example of a corresponding commercial product is the product Q2-8413 marketed by DOW CORNING; • acrylic fractions, such as the products marketed under the names VS80 and VS70 by 3M; • polyamine fractions, and • oxazoline fractions

[0239] Silicones that may be used for the present invention may comprise 1 or 2 oxazoline groups; for example, poly(2-methyl oxazoline-b-dimethyl siloxane-b-2-methyl oxazoline) and poly(2-ethyl-2-oxazoline-dimethyl siloxane). Products marketed by KAO under the references OX-40, OS-51, OS-96, and OS-88 may also be used.

[0240] Suitable silicone-based celluloses that may be used for the present invention include the products marketed by SHIN-ETSU under the references X-22-8401 and X-22-8404.

[0241] It is preferable that the silicone is selected from the group consisting of dimethicones, amodimethicones (aminosilicones), and mixtures thereof.

[0242] The amount of silicone(s) in the composition may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0243] - pH correction agent

[0244] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be corrected to the desired value by using at least one pH correcting agent, such as an acidifying agent or a basifying agent, for example, which are commonly used in cosmetic products.

[0245] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be from 3 to 8, preferably from 3.5 to 7.0 and, more preferably, from 4.0 to 6.0.

[0246] Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.

[0247] The pH correction agent(s) may be used in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0248] - Optional ingredient

[0249] The composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the above-mentioned ingredients, optional ingredient(s) generally used in cosmetic products, in particular, surfactants / emulsifiers other than (b) fatty amide, and (c) sugar ether surfactant and (d) amphoteric surfactant; lipophilic thickeners; volatile or non-volatile organic cosmetic solvents tically acceptable; polyols such as glycerin, pentylene glycol; cationic, anionic or amphoteric polymers; natural extracts derived from animals or plants; waxes; preservatives; antioxidants; salts; and the like, within a range which does not affect the effects of the present invention.

[0250] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above (optional) ingredient(s) in an amount of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0251] The composition according to the present invention may be intended to be used as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be intended for application to keratinous fibers.

[0252] The composition according to the present invention may preferably be used as a rinse-off cosmetic composition for keratinous fibers such as hair. The term "rinse-off" here means that the composition according to the present invention is removed, by rinsing, from the keratinous fibers after having been applied to the keratinous fibers. Rinsing may be carried out with water, for example.

[0253] Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition for the hair, preferably a cosmetic hair care composition.

[0254] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional ingredients according to any of the processes which are well known to those skilled in the art.

[0255] If necessary, the above essential or optional ingredients may be heated. Thus, heating may be carried out when mixing the above essential and optional ingredients.

[0256] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention. The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with a conventional mixing means such as a stirrer and a homogenizer. [Shape]

[0257] The compositions used for the present invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O / W, W / O or multiple type (if the composition according to the present invention includes at least one oil); a suspension or emulsion of soft cream-like consistency (O / W) or (W / O); an aqueous gel; or any other cosmetic form, and preferably an emulsion.

[0258] The compositions used for the present invention may be in any dosage form. For example, the compositions used for the present invention may be in the form of any treatment for hair in general, such as a cream, lotion, gel, or the like.

[0259] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O / W emulsion.

[0260] The composition according to the present invention can be used for the treatment, preferably the revitalization, and more preferably the care of keratinous fibers such as hair. [Cosmetic process and use]

[0261] The present invention also relates to a process or cosmetic use for revitalizing or caring for keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising:

[0262] the application to the keratinous fiber of a composition comprising: a. at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms; b. at least one fatty amide; c. at least one sugar ether surfactant; and d. at least one amphoteric surfactant; and

[0263] optional rinsing of the composition of keratinous fibers.

[0264] The application of the composition can be carried out by any means, such as a brush, a comb, and the hands.

[0265] The cosmetic process or use according to the present invention may be carried out by heating the keratinous fibers, preferably the hair. Thus, the cosmetic process according to the present invention may further comprise a step of heating the keratinous fiber, preferably the hair, after the step of applying the composition to the keratinous fibers and before the optional rinsing step.

[0266] The heating temperature is not limited, and it may be, for example, greater than 50°C, preferably greater than 100°C, and more preferably greater than 150°C. The heating temperature may be less than 250°C.

[0267] The heating time may depend on the temperature of the heating device but also on the strength of the mechanical tension. It may be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes, and preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.

[0268] Heating can be achieved by conventional means, such as the application of a hair dryer.

[0269] The optional step of rinsing the keratinous fiber composition may be done with water.

[0270] The present invention also relates to the use of the composition comprising: a. at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms; b. at least one fatty amide; c. at least one sugar ether surfactant; and d. at least one amphoteric surfactant,

[0271] as a hair care or conditioning composition.

[0272] In consideration of the effect of imparting an improved softness appearance to the hair of the composition according to the present invention, the cosmetic process and use according to the present invention can provide the keratinous fibers with a good revitalizing effect.

[0273] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. from 0.5% to 20% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol chosen from fatty alcohols having a linear and saturated carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms, such as arachidonic alcohol, behenyl alcohol, li-gnoceryl alcohol, and mixtures thereof; b. from 0.5% to 20% by weight of at least one fatty amide chosen from Cocamide MIPA, Cocamide MEA (coco monoethanolamide), and mixtures thereof; c. from 0.5% to 20% of at least one sugar ether surfactant selected from alkyl glucoside surfactants; and d. from 0.1% to 10% by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from phospholipids.

[0274] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. from 3% to 7% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol chosen from fatty alcohols having a linear and saturated carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms, such as arachidonic alcohol, behenyl alcohol, li-gnoceryl alcohol, and mixtures thereof; b. from 3% to 7% by weight of at least one fatty amide chosen from Cocamide MIPA, Cocamide MEA (coco monoethanolamide), and mixtures thereof; c. from 2% to 7% of at least one alkyl glucoside surfactant selected from the group consisting of caprylyl / capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside, Ci2_20 alkyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof; and d. from 0.5% to 3% by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from phosphoacylglycerol, more preferably chosen from lecithins. EXAMPLES

[0275] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, they should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. [Preparations]

[0276] Each of the compositions in the form of an O / W emulsion according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. When melting the behenyl alcohol, thickeners, and the like, it was heated up to 70°C until the ingredient was completely melted. The numerical values ​​of the amounts of the components shown in Table 1 are all based on the "% by weight" of the ingredients relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated - AM: Active Ingredient). [Evaluation]

[0277] 2.7 g of a strand of bleached Chinese hair 27 cm long was prepared. Each of the hair strands was washed once with a clarifying shampoo. After shampooing, the hair strand was rinsed with water and dried with a towel. 1 g of each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 was applied to the hair strand, and then the hair strand was left for 5 minutes under room conditions. The hair strand was then rinsed with water and dried with a hair dryer to obtain the treated hair strand. (Softening efficiency)

[0278] The softening effectiveness on hair was evaluated by several panelists with a score of 1 to 4 according to the following criteria and averaged.

[0279] 1: The hair was not soft

[0280] 2: The hair was slightly soft

[0281] 3: Hair was moderately soft

[0282] 4: the hair was very soft (Pearlescence intensity)

[0283] The evaluation of the pearl effect was carried out by visually observing the composition with the following criteria and by averaging.

[0284] 1: the composition was not pearly

[0285] 2: the composition was slightly pearly

[0286] 3: the composition was moderately pearly

[0287] 4: the composition was very pearly

[0288] The results are shown in Table 1 below.

[0289] [Table 1]

[0290] [Tables 1] Ingredient Ex. 1 Ex. Comp. 1 Ex. Comp. 2 Hydrophilic Thickener 1.4 1.4 1.4 Cetearyl Alcohol 5.5 5.5 5.5 Solid Esters 3.5 3.5 3.5 Ester Oil 2 2 2 Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-6 (and) Cetrimonium Chloride ** 1 1 1 Cationic Surfactant 3.4 3.4 3.4 Lecithin 1 - - Behenyl Alcohol 5 5 5 Cocamide MEA 5 5 5 Decyl Glucoside*2 5 5 5 Caramel Color - - 0.001 Trimethyl Glycine 3 3 3 Non-Ionic Surfactant 1 1 1 Preservative, Fragrance qs qs qs Citric Acid qs pH qs pH qs pH Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 PH Rating 4.2 4.2 4.2 Softening efficiency 4 2 2 Pearlescence intensity 4 3 4

[0291] *1: Sold by DOW under the trade name XIAMETER MEM-8299 EMULSION (containing 56% to 61% active ingredient)

[0292] *2: sold by BASF under the trade name PLANTAREN 2000 UP (containing approximately 53% active ingredient)

[0293] As can be seen from the tables, the compositions according to Example 1, which include the specific combination of ingredients (a) to (d), exhibited improved softening effectiveness on keratinous hair fibers. In addition, the composition exhibits an improved pearling effect.

[0294] On the other hand, the compositions according to Comparative Example 1, which do not include the (d) amphoteric surfactant, could not exhibit good softening efficiency on keratinous fibers. The pearlescent effect of Comparative Composition 1 is moderate. In addition, the composition according to Comparative Example 2, which includes caramel coloring instead of amphoteric surfactant, could exhibit good pearlescent effect, but the softening effect was inferior.

[0295] Accordingly, it can be said that the composition according to the present invention is very suitable as a cosmetic composition for treating keratinous substances, since it can provide an attractive appearance due to the improved pearlescent effect while providing the keratinous fibers with the improved cosmetic effect.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition, preferably cosmetic composition for keratinous fibers, comprising (a) at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms; (b) at least one fatty amide; (c) at least one sugar ether surfactant; and (d) at least one amphoteric surfactant.

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a) fatty alcohol has a carbon chain containing from 20 to 24 carbon atoms.

3. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the (b) fatty amide is selected from those formed by reaction of an alkanolamine and a C4-C28 fatty acid.

4. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the (b) fatty amide is selected from Cocamide MIPA, Cocamide MEA (coco monoethanolamide), and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the (c) sugar ether surfactant is chosen from alkyl glucoside surfactants.

6. A composition according to claim 5, wherein the alkyl glucoside surfactant is represented by the following general formula: RO-^OXtGX wherein - Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30, preferably 6 to 28, and more preferably 8 to 26 carbon atoms, or an aralkyl radical containing from 7 to 30, preferably 7 to 28, and more preferably 7 to 26 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of Ri denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; - R2 represents an alkylene radical containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; - G represents a reduced sugar containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms; - t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10; and - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15.

7. A composition according to claim 5 or 6, wherein the alkyl glucoside surfactant is selected from the group consisting of caprylyl / capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside,

8.

9.

10. arachidyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside, Ci2_20 alkyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the (d) amphoteric surfactant is chosen from phospholipids. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the (d) amphoteric surfactant is chosen from phosphoacylglycerol, more preferably chosen from lecithins. Cosmetic process for revitalizing or caring for keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: applying to the keratinous fiber the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9; and optional rinsing of the composition of keratinous fibers.

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