Cosmetic composition comprising a skin active agent

Abstract

Cosmetic Composition Comprising a Skin Active Agent A cosmetic composition comprising: (a) a hydrophobic polymer formed as a reaction product of a natural or food-derived oil and a methacrylate or acrylate polymer; (b) one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer; (c) one or more skin active agents; (d) one or more surfactants; and (e) water is described. The composition is an oil-in-water emulsion. Methods of making and using the cosmetic composition are also described. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising a cutaneous active agent FIELD OF DISCLOSURE

[0001] The present disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions comprising a hydrophobic polymer and one or more skin active agents. Methods of manufacturing the composition and methods of treating the skin are also disclosed. CONTEXT

[0002] The skin is a unique and complex organ that extends throughout the body. It is essential for protecting the body from external threats, regulating body temperature, and preventing moisture loss. It also serves as a sensory organ and produces vitamin D. There are different types of skin in different parts of the body. For example, the skin on the face is different from that of the scalp, and even the skin on the palm of the hand is different from the skin on the back of the hand.

[0003] The skin constitutes the integumentary system which includes three layers: the epidermis, the dermis and the hypodermis. The epidermis is the outermost layer of the skin and the first line of defense against external threats, such as microbes. The human epidermis is primarily composed of keratinocytes containing other cell types, including melanocytes and Langerhans cells. Each of these cell types contributes, through its specific function, to the essential role played by the skin. Melanocytes impart a characteristic color and tone to the skin. The epidermis is essentially impermeable to water and therefore helps maintain hydration and prevents the body from absorbing water when bathing. Unlike other cells, epidermal cells have a unique ability to regenerate and can therefore heal after being injured.

[0004] The middle layer of the skin that lies just beneath the epidermis is the dermis, which includes connective tissue, collagen, elastin, hair follicles, lymph nodes, and sweat glands. The dermis provides strong support to the epidermis. It is also its nourishing layer. The dermis primarily includes fibroblasts, but leukocytes, mast cells, or tissue macrophages are also present. The dermis also contains blood vessels and nerve fibers. The acellular portion (i.e., the area between the cells) of the dermis is called the extracellular matrix. The extracellular matrix of the skin is composed of various extracellular components, including proteins, especially collagen fibers, and elastin. Other components of the extracellular matrix of the skin include glycosaminoglycans (e.g., hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, dermatan sulfate, keratan sulfate, heparan sulfate, etc.), proteoglycans (e.g., fibromodulin, decorin, biglycan, perlecan, heparan sulfate proteoglycan 2, agrin, versican, aggrecan, lumican, collagen type IX, collagen type XII, collagen type XIV, testican 1, testican 2, etc.), and various glycoproteins (e.g., fibrillin 1, thrombospondins-1 and -2, tenascins-C and -X, osteopontin, fibronectin, laminins-5 and -6, vitronectin, etc.). These extracellular components are synthesized by dermal fibroblasts, making dermal fibroblasts the main constituent of the structural assembly of the dermis.

[0005] The extracellular matrix is ​​a highly heterogeneous amalgam of morphologically diverse architectural entities. It organizes and confers structural integrity to individual tissues, in addition to modulating cellular behavior by interacting with cell surface receptors and soluble growth factors. Dysfunctions and changes in extracellular matrix components can therefore interfere with both tissue integrity and cellular performance. Dysfunctions and changes in extracellular matrix components of skin and mucosa in humans can lead to skin aging, skin atrophy, skin lesions, skin wounds, and other problems.

[0006] The hypodermis is the deepest layer of the skin and is composed primarily of fatty and connective tissue. It connects the skin to the underlying fascia (tissue) of bones and muscles. The hypodermis is not always classified as an official layer of the skin, but it nevertheless provides important functions such as energy storage, body insulation, and prevention of skin sagging. The hypodermis houses fat storage cells that act as energy reservoirs and act as a cushion against impacts.

[0007] Over time, the skin ages, which can lead to wrinkles, brown spots, and a loss of elasticity and volume. Skin aging includes both chronological aging (endogenous aging), which is natural aging that occurs over time due to natural biological processes, and degenerative aging due to external influences, such as exposure to harmful sunlight, pollution, lack of hydration, etc. Ultraviolet rays, such as UVB, have a wavelength in the range of 280 nm to 320 nm and are known to damage the skin and accelerate aging. UVB rays stimulate reactive oxygen species (ROS) and free radicals in skin cells, which accelerates the intracellular signaling system and induces oxidative stress on biomolecules, such as DNA, proteins, and lipids. Increased oxidative stress in skin cells can cause stimulation of epidermal keratinocytes or dermal fibroblasts and, through a series of intracellular signal transduction, the expression of genes such as matrix metalloproteinase (MMP), a collagen-degrading enzyme, can increase.

[0008] There are many treatments available to treat the skin. For example, the importance of collagen in the aging process has led to the development of many topical products containing collagen. Other components, such as retinoic acid, vitamin C, and hyaluronic acid, are used in topical formulations to stimulate collagen synthesis. Some cosmetic procedures, such as laser skin resurfacing, are used to reduce facial wrinkles and skin irregularities. Topical administration of proteins known to inhibit one or more signaling pathways that exhibit altered activity after UV exposure has been explored. However, there are difficulties associated with the use of whole proteins that cannot be effectively delivered via the epidermis.Furthermore, large proteins can be unstable, difficult to formulate, and ineffective topically. Despite the number of products and treatments that have been proposed, none of them satisfactorily elicit the skin's intrinsic repair and regeneration mechanisms. SUMMARY OF DISCLOSURE

[0009] The present disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions in the form of oil-in-water dispersions. The compositions effectively incorporate and deliver skin active agents to the skin. This is achieved, at least in part, through the inclusion of a unique hydrophobic polymer, which is solubilized in an oil or oil phase. The hydrophobic polymer helps stabilize the dispersion, reduces the size of the oil droplets, and improves the penetration of the skin active agents into the skin. Skin active agents can be difficult to formulate into cosmetic compositions and deliver into the skin. For example, many skin active agents suffer from solubility and stability issues. Even if skin active agents are successfully formulated for stability, a stable formulation does not necessarily ensure that the skin active agents will penetrate the skin.However, the oil-in-water emulsions in the present case are both stable and effective in delivering skin active agents deep into the skin.

[0010] Oil-in-water dispersions can become physically unstable due to causes such as creaming, sedimentation, flocculation, phase inversion, and coalescence. The tendency toward instability depends, at least in part, on droplet size, droplet distribution, and the amount and type of emulsifiers. and mutual solubility between the phases. Improved adsorption of the emulsifier leads to a reduction in interfacial tension, lowers the interface free energy and thus promotes emulsification and emulsion stability. The inventors have discovered that the unique hydrophobic polymers of the present emulsions positively influence (reduce) interfacial tension and contribute to a robust and stable cosmetic composition that successfully incorporates and delivers skin active agents in large quantities.

[0011] The cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: a. a hydrophobic polymer formed as a reaction product of a natural or food-derived oil and a methacrylate or acrylate polymer; b. one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the reaction product of (a); c. one or more cutaneous active agents; d. one or more surfactants; and e. water.

[0012] The hydrophobic polymer is a single reaction product of a natural or food-derived oil and an acrylate or methacrylate polymer. Preferably, the hydrophobic polymer is a reaction product of a methacrylate polymer and a natural or food-derived oil. The natural or food-derived oil is preferably a drying oil or a semi-drying oil. Non-limiting examples include linseed oil, sunflower oil, tung oil, fish oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, or combinations thereof. The methacrylate polymer may be formed from methacrylate monomers, for example, monomers selected from isobutyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, and combinations thereof.In a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic polymer is formed from a natural or food-derived oil and an isobutyl methacrylate polymer and may preferably be an isobutyl methacrylate polymer.

[0013] In various embodiments, the hydrophobic polymer is the reaction product of about 50 to about 85 parts by weight of the natural or food-derived oil and about 15 to about 50 parts by weight of the methacrylate or acrylate polymer. More specifically, the hydrophobic polymer may be the reaction product of about 72 to about 77 parts by weight of the natural or food-derived oil and about 23 to about 28 parts by weight of a methacrylate polymer. For example, the hydrophobic polymer may be the reaction product of a linseed oil and a poly(isobutyl methacrylate) in a suitable solvent, such as, for example, 2,2,4-trimethyl-1,3-pentanediol monoisobutyrate. Preferably, the reaction product is formed from about 72 to about 77% of a linseed oil and about 23 to about 28% of an isobutyl methacrylate polymer in a suitable solvent, such as 2,2,4-trimethyl-1,3-pentanediol monoisobutyrate.

[0014] One or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer of (a) are used to solubilize the hydrophobic polymer. A single solvent may be used or a combination of solvents, the combination of solvents being capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer. In various embodiments, the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer have a dispersion component (D), a polar component (P) and a hydrogen bonding component (H), and a distance (Ra) according to Hansen solubility parameters of less than or equal to 13.4 MPa0'5, wherein the distance (Ra) is defined by formula (I):

[0015] CT"“ *2 (I) LJ Ra = ^D-Di) +(PP{)

[0016] in which • Di is 16.8 MPa0'5, • Pi is 4.8 MPa0'5, and • Ht is 13.0 MPa05.

[0017] Non-limiting examples of solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer of (a) include polycitronellol acetate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, isododecane, isohexadecane, tetradecane, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, ethanol, phenoxyethanol, castor oil, and mixtures thereof. Polycitronellol acetate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, isododecane, and mixtures thereof are particularly useful.

[0018] Surfactants include anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric (zwitterionic) surfactants, and nonionic surfactants. In various embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure include one or more anionic surfactants and, optionally, one or more nonionic surfactants. Further, one or more of the surfactants may preferably be a biosurfactant.

[0019] Non-limiting examples of biosurfactants include glycolipids (e.g., sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, cellobiose lipids, mannosylerythritol lipids, and trehalose lipids), lipopeptides (e.g., surfactin, iturin, fengycin, arthrofactin, and lichenysin), flavolipids, phospholipids (e.g., cardiolipins), fatty acid ester compounds, fatty acid ether compounds, and high molecular weight polymers such as lipoproteins, lipopolysaccharide-protein complexes, and polysaccharide-protein-fatty acid complexes. Preferably, at least one of the biosurfactants is a glycolipid. Non-limiting examples of glycolipids include sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, trehalose lipids, mannosylerythritol lipids and combinations thereof. Rhamnolipids are particularly preferred.

[0020] Non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants include sulfate-based surfactants, glutamate surfactants, acyl taurates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, or combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure include one or more acyl taurate surfactants.

[0021] A wide variety of skin active agents can be incorporated into cosmetic compositions due in part to their amazing stability and versatility. For example, the oil phase of the cosmetic composition may include one or more lipophilic skin active agents. The aqueous phase may include one or more hydrophilic skin active agents. Non-limiting examples of useful skin active agents include ceramides, ceramide precursors, cholesterol, cholesterol sulfate, b-glucan, carob seed extract, eperua falcata extract, amino acids, niacinamide and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, allantoin, omega fatty acids, vitamins, vitamin precursors, retinoids such as retinol, retinoic acid, tretinoin, isotretinoin, adapalene, or mixtures thereof.

[0022] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes one or more ceramides, for example one or more ceramides selected from ceramide EOP, ceramide AS, ceramide AP, ceramide NS, ceramide NP, ceramide NH, ceramide AH, ceramide EOH, ceramide EOS, ceramide AdS, ceramide NdS and ceramide EOdS, protein-bound ceramides, phytosphingosine, sphingosine, ceramide precursors, or combinations thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes ceramide-EOP, ceramide-NP, ceramide-EP, or mixtures thereof.

[0023] The disclosure further relates to methods of incorporating a skin active agent into cosmetic compositions, methods of stabilizing compositions comprising skin active agents, methods of delivering one or more skin active agents into the skin and methods of treating the skin with the cosmetic compositions. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING

[0024] An implementation of the present technology is described, by way of example only, with reference to the attached figure, in which:

[0025] [Fig.l] [Fig.l] represents a cryogenic scanning electron microscopy of a droplet containing skin active agents (ceramides) dispersed in an oil-in-water dispersion of the invention.

[0026] It is understood that the various aspects are not limited to the arrangements and instrumentality shown in the drawings. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE DISCLOSURE

[0027] The cosmetic compositions are in the form of oil-in-water emulsions that stably incorporate and deliver skin active agents, in large amounts, to the skin. Methods of preparing and using the cosmetic compositions, including methods of treating the skin, are also described. The cosmetic compositions are surprisingly versatile, robust, and effective. The compositions typically include: a. a hydrophobic polymer that is a reaction product of a natural or food-derived oil and a methacrylate or acrylate polymer; b. one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer of (a); c. one or more cutaneous active agents; d. one or more surfactants; and e. water;

[0028] wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water dispersion.

[0029] The cosmetic composition may optionally include one or more additional components, for example, water-soluble solvents, thickening agents, film-forming polymers, miscellaneous ingredients (for example, vitamins, antioxidants, etc.), cholesterol, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, botanical extracts, or mixtures thereof. a. Hydrophobic polymer #

[0030] The hydrophobic polymer is a reaction product of a natural or food-derived oil (oil component) and an acrylate component. In particular, the natural or food-derived oil may be a drying oil, preferably linseed oil. The reaction product may include an isobutyl methacrylate backbone with a plurality of linseed oil side chains. Preferably, the reaction product is a product sold under the trademark MYCELX® from MYCELX Technologies Corporation of Gainesville, Georgia. See U.S. Patent No. 5,698,139 for a description of MYCELX substances.

[0031] The hydrophobic polymer is composed of an oily component and a polymeric component, generally reacted in a solvent. In one embodiment Preferably, the hydrophobic polymer is a reaction product of a linseed oil and a poly(isobutyl methacrylate), reacted in a solvent, such as 2,2,4-trimethyl-1,3-pentanediol monoisobutyrate as a solvent.

[0032] The oil component is derived from glycerin and carboxylic acids, such as a flaxseed fatty acid, to form monoglycerides, diglycerides, and triglycerides. The oil component is preferably of plant origin or naturally occurring origin. Vegetable oils are obtained by cold pressing the seeds of a plant to obtain the oil therein. Among the vegetable oils, drying oils such as linseed oil and tung oil, semi-drying oils such as soybean oil and cottonseed oil, and non-drying oils such as coconut oil can be used as the oil component. The oil component typically forms about 72% to 77%, or most preferably 74.62%, of the hydrophobic polymer (e.g., linseed oil / isobutyl methacrylate).

[0033] The polymer component may be derived from α- and β-unsaturated carbonyl compounds. The polymer component is the resulting product of a monomer which is an ester of an acrylic acid, a crotonic acid, an isocrotonic acid, a methacrylic acid, a sorbic acid, a cinnamic acid, a maleic acid, a fumaric acid and a methylmethacrylic acid. Non-limiting examples of useful polymers that cover any number of reaction possibilities between esters of these compounds include acrylate polymers, methyl methacrylate polymers, methyl methacrylate / n-butyl methacrylate polymers, methacrylate copolymers, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, n-butyl / isobutyl methacrylate copolymers, or mixtures thereof.

[0034] The hydrophobic polymer is a reaction product generally formed in a liquid solvent capable of dissolving or diluting the polymer component (poly(oil / polymer)) and the hydrophobic polymer. The solvent or diluent should generally include any liquid or mixture of liquids capable of dissolving or diluting a hydrophobic polymer product. The solvent / diluent can control evaporation, desired flow rate, and coalescence of the hydrophobic polymer. The solvent can be, for example, an aliphatic hydrocarbon, an aromatic hydrocarbon, alcohols, ketones, ethers, aldehydes, phenols, carboxylic acids, carboxylates, synthetic chemicals, and naturally occurring substances. Preferably, the solvent is 2,2,4-trimethyl-1,3-pentanediol monoisobutyrate. Hydrophobic polymers according to the present disclosure and methods of making them are described, for example, in U.S. Pat.Nos. 5,437,793, 5,698,139, 5,837,146, 5,961,823, 6,180,010, 6,475,393 and 6,805,727. The preferred hydrophobic polymer may be designated as poly(linseed oil / isobutyl methacrylate).

[0035] The amount of hydrophobic polymer in the cosmetic composition varies, but may be from about 0.01 to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of the hydrophobic polymer in the cosmetic composition is about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.5 to about 15% by weight, about 0.5 to about 12% by weight, about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight or from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. a. Solvent capable of solubilizing (a)#

[0036] The oil phase of the emulsion includes the hydrophobic polymer of (a) dissolved in one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer. The one or more solvents may include one or more solvents used to generate or solubilize the hydrophobic polymer, for example, 2,2,4-trimethyl-1,3-pentanediol monoisobutyrate. The one or more solvents may be a single solvent or a plurality of solvents. For example, in various embodiments, the solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer of (a) have a dispersion component (D), a polar component (P), a hydrogen bonding component (H), and a distance (Ra) of less than or equal to 13.4 MPa0.5 according to Hansen solubility parameters, wherein the distance (Ra) is defined by formula (I):

[0037] Ra = + (P - P^ + (H - h / ®

[0038] in which • Dr is 16.8 MPa0'5, • Pi is 4.8 MPa0'5, and • Hi is 13.0 MPa05.

[0039] In a preferred embodiment, the one or more solvents have a dispersion component (D), a polar component (P), a hydrogen bonding component (H) and a distance (Ra) less than or equal to 9.9 MPa0.5 according to Hansen solubility parameters, wherein the distance (Ra) is defined by the formula (I):

[0040] Ra = + (P - Pj2 + (H - ®

[0041] in which • Di is 16.4 MPa0'5, • Pi is 5.0 MPa0'5, and • Hx is 11.7 MPa0'5.

[0042] The solvent may be an oil. The term "oil" means a non-aqueous, water-immiscible compound that is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; 1.013 x 105 Pa). The solvent may be a non-silicone oil (e.g., an oil that does not contain silicon atoms and, in particular, does not contain Si-O groups). Non-limiting examples of the one or more solvents include caprylic / capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate, polycitronellol acetate, isododecane, and mixtures thereof. The solvents may include acetone. The solvents may include oleic acid. The solvents may include an oil containing oleic acid (such as a vegetable oil). Table 1 below shows the values ​​of D, P and H, as well as Ra for the permissible and preferred ranges, for several solvents.

[0043] [Tables 1] Table 1 Solvent (b) DPH Ra (Allowable Range) Ra (Preferred Range) Ethanol 15.8 8.8 19.4 7.81 8.67 Octyldodecanol 16.1 2.2 7.4 6.33 5.17 Isopropyl Myristate 15.9 2.1 2.8 10.70 9.41 Isopropyl Alcohol 15.8 6.1 6.4 7.02 5.54 Phenoxyethanol 17.8 5.7 14.3 2.55 3.88 CCTG 18.22 5.39 14.74 3.38 4.76 Castor Oil 15.9 4.6 12 2.07 1.12 Polycitronellol Acetate 16.4 3 4.2 9.02 7.76 Acetone 15.5 10.4 7 8.61 7.38 Oleic acid 16 2.8 6.2 7.27 5.98

[0044] In some embodiments, if oleic acid is used, at least a portion of the oleic acid may be provided by a vegetable oil. The vegetable oil may be a seed or nut oil. The vegetable oil may have an oleic acid content of at least 20% by weight of the vegetable oil. The vegetable oil may include sunflower oil, soybean oil, macadamia nut oil and / or avocado oil. In some embodiments, the composition may include macadamia nut oil and may be free, or substantially free, of other vegetable oils.

[0045] For the purposes of this disclosure, the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer of (a) may not individually solubilize the hydrophobic polymer but, when combined with other solvents, the combination solubilizes the hydrophobic polymer. Thus, when referring to a total amount of one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer, the inclusion of all solvents that solubilize the hydrophobic polymer in combination is contemplated, even if one or more solvents in the combination do not individually solubilize the hydrophobic polymer.

[0046] Non-limiting examples of solvents useful for solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer of (a), individually or in combination with other solvents, include polycitronellol acetate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, isododecane, isohexadecane, tetradecane, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecanol, ethanol, phenoxyethanol, castor oil and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, at least one of the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer of (a) is selected from caprylic / capric triglyceride, polycitronellol acetate, isododecane and mixtures thereof. In another preferred embodiment, at least one of the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer of (a) is polycitronellol acetate.

[0047] Non-limiting solvents which, individually or in combination with other solvents, are useful for solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer of (a) include dioctylcyclohexane, mineral oil, isocetyl palmitate, isocetyl palmitate, cyclopentasiloxane, dicaprylyl carbonate, octyl isostearate, trimethylhexyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl ether, dihexyl carbonate, polydecene, octyl cocoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isohexyl decanoate, isodecyl octanoate, dihexyl ether, isododecane, isodecyl 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoate, erucate oleyl, passiflora incamata oil, jojoba oil, octyl palmitate, macadamia nut oil, isopropyl stearate, rapeseed oil, hexyldecanol, isotridecyl 3,5,5-trimethylhexanonanoate, polycitronellol acetate, mixed decanoyl and octanoyl glycerides, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, ester of 3,5,5-trimethyl, cetearyl octanoate, dimethicone, isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecanol, dioctyl adipate, isopropyl myristate, octyl palmitate (2-ethylhexyl palmitate), octyldodecyl myristate, butyloctanoic acid, isopropyl stearate, caprylic / capric triglycerides, isopropyl isostearate, , jojoba oil, cyclomethicone, peanut oil, almond oil, sunflower oil, decyl oleate, avocado oil, olive oil, dibutyl adipate, castor oil, calendula oil, wheat germ oil, decyl oleate, avocado oil, calendula oil, propylene glycol monoisostearate, cocoglycerides, butylene glycol caprylate / caprate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, diglyceryl caprylic / capric succinate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, cetearyl isononanoate, cetearyl octanoate, cetyl dimethicone, coco caprylate / caprate, cocoglycerides, dialkyl tartaric acid C12-13, dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether, hexyldecanol, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, isohexadecane, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, octyl octanoate, octyl palmitate, octyl stearate,octyldodecanol, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl stearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, phenyl trimethicone, polydecene, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, stearyl heptanoate, tricaprylin, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, triisostearin or combinations thereof.

[0048] Additional useful solvents include hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for example, triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin seed oil, grape oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil, avocado oil, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acid, for example those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil and caprylyl glycol; synthetic esters and ethers, especially of fatty acids, for example purcellin oil, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate;hydroxylated esters, for example isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate or triisocetyl citrate; fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates; polyol esters, for example propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, for example pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate or isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, sold in particular under the trade name Eldew SL 205 by the company Ajinomoto; linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane, a hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil, or the mixture; of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Cn) sold under the reference Cetiol UT by the company Cognis; fluorinated oils which are partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based, for example those described in document JP-A-2 295 912; silicone oils, for example volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular volatile silicone oils, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms;phenylsilicones, for example phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes or 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; mixtures thereof.;

[0049] Other specific examples of solvents include cocoglyceride, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, dicapryl maleate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate, octyl stearate, isostearyl linoleate, lanolin oil, coconut oil, cocoa butter, olive oil, avocado oil, aloe extracts, jojoba oil, castor oil, fatty acids such as oleic acid, stearic acid, fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, diisopropyl adipate, hydroxybenzoate esters, benzoic acid esters of C9-C15 alcohols, isononanoate isononyl, alkanes, mineral oil, silicone, dimethylpolysiloxane, ether, polyoxypropylene butyl ether, polyoxypropylene cetyl ether, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, aryl alkyl benzoate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, or mixtures thereof.

[0050] The total amount of the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer of (a) in the cosmetic composition will vary. In some cases, the oil phase of the oil-in-water emulsions is primarily the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer. For example, the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer of (a) may be in amounts of about 10 to about 70% by weight, based on the total amount of the cosmetic composition.In other embodiments, the total amount of the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer may be in amounts of about 10 to about 60 wt%, about 10 to about 50 wt%, about 10 to about 40 wt%, about 10 to about 30 wt%, about 20 to about 70 wt%, about 20 to about 60 wt%, about 20 to about 50 wt%, about 20 to about 40 wt%, about 30 to about 70 wt%, about 30 to about 60 wt%, about 30 to about 50 wt%. weight, from about 30 to about 40% by weight, from about 40 to about 70% by weight, from about 40 to about 60% by weight, or from about 40 to about 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0051] The oil-in-water emulsions forming the cosmetic composition do not require a high amount of an oil phase, which is dispersed in droplets throughout the aqueous phase. Thus, in various embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include about 0.05 to about 20% by weight of the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer may be from about 0.05 to about 15 wt%, from about 0.05 to about 10 wt%, from about 0.05 to about 8 wt%, from about 0.05 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.05 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 20 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 15 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.5 to about 20% by weight, about 0.5 to about 15% by weight, about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, or about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, about 2 to about 20% by weight, about 2 to about 15% by weight, about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 5 to about 20% by weight, about 5 to about 10% by weight, about 10 to about 30% by weight or about 15 to about 30% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. a. Skin active agents#

[0052] Skin active agents are ingredients included in the cosmetic composition to benefit, treat, or improve the health, appearance, or integrity of the skin. Skin active ingredients are often classified according to their function. Non-limiting examples include anti-acne compounds, anti-inflammatory compounds, skin renewal compounds, compounds that improve skin barrier function, depigmentation compounds, anti-wrinkle compounds, anti-aging compounds, and the like.For example, cutaneous active agents include acne rosacea inhibitors (e.g., metronidazole, sulfacetamide, sulfacetamide sodium, sulfur, dapson, doxycycline, minocycline, clindamycin, clindamycin phosphate, erythromycin, tetracyclines, azelaic acid, calcium dobesilate, maleic acid, and any compatible combination thereof); a-adrenergic receptor agonists (e.g., clonidine, amphetamine, doxtroamphetamine, apraclonidine, dipivefrine, a-methyldopa, oxymetazoline, oxymetazoline hydrochloride, methoxamine, metaraminol, medetomidine, dexmedetomidine, ethylnorepinephrine, guanfacine, . guanabenz, phenylephrine, phenylephrine hydrochloride, ephedrine, epinine, epinephrine, ethylnorepinephrine, levaterol, lofexidine, norepinephrine, norephrine, norephrenephrine, propylenephrine, pseudohedrenephrine, propylephrine methamphetamine, a-methylnorepinephrine, methylphenidate, mephentermine, midodrine, mivazerol, moxonidine, desglymidodrine, tetrahydrozoline, tetrahydrozoline hydrochloride, cirazoline, amidephrine, brimonidine, brimonidine tartrate, naphazoline, isoproterol, xylazine, xylometazoline and / or tizanidine); chemicals and botanical extracts with vasoconstrictor properties, including, but not limited to, corticosteroids, ephedrine, pseudoephedrine, caffeine and / or escin; extracts of ephedra, phedra sinica, hamamelis viginiana, hydrastis canadensis, lycopus virginicus, aspidosperma quebracho, cytisus scoparius, raphanus sativus linn (radish leaf extracts), horse chestnut, etc.

[0053] In a preferred embodiment, the skin active agents are selected from ceramides, ceramide precursors, free fatty acids, linoleic / oleic acids, cholesterol, cholesterol sulfate, glucan b, carob seed extract, eperua falcata extract, amino acids, niacinamide and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, glycerin, allantoin, squalane, omega fatty acids, or combinations thereof.

[0054] Additional non-limiting examples include chemicals or botanical extracts with anti-inflammatory properties (e.g., corticosteroids (for short-term use)), non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, bisabolol, glycyrrhetinic acid, glycerin, plant extracts with anti-inflammatory properties (e.g., tea extracts, chamomile extracts), anti-inflammatory interleukins (e.g., II-Ira); isoprenylcysteine ​​analogs (i.e., N-acetyl-S-farnesyl-L-cysteine), aromatic aldehydes with anti-inflammatory properties (e.g., 4-ethoxybenzaldehyde), etc., as well as any compatible combination thereof); chemicals or botanical extracts with antimicrobial properties (e.g., antibiotics including, but not limited to, gentamicin, penicillins, cephalosporins, quinolones, ciprofloxacin and / or novobiocin); chemicals or botanical extracts with antifungal properties (e.g., ketoconazole, naphtifin hydrochloride, oxyconazole nitrate, sulconazole nitrate, urea, terbinafine hydrochloride, selenium sulfide, etc.); chemicals or botanical extracts with antidandruff properties; chemicals or botanical extracts with antiseborrheic properties; keratolytic agents or botanical extracts with keratolytic properties (i.e., alpha-hydroxy acids; beta-hydroxy acids, polyhydroxy acids, urea, salicylic acid, etc.); chemicals with astringent properties; . serine protease inhibitors; saturated dicarboxylic acids; alpha-hydroxy acids (e.g., glycolic acids, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, etc.); beta-hydroxy acids (e.g., carnitine, 3-hydroxybutyric acid, 3-hydroxypropionic acid, [3-hydroxy-[3-methylbutyric acid, salicylic acid, etc.).

[0055] Other non-limiting examples of skin active agents include retinoic acid, tretinoin, isotretinoin, adapalene, retinol and / or their derivatives; benzoyl peroxide; dapsone; kinetin (N6-furfuryladenine) and their derivatives (e.g., furfurylaminotetrahydropyranyladenine); niacinamide (nicotinamide), and combinations thereof. Other non-limiting examples of skin active agents include metronidazole, sulfacetamide, sodium sulfacetamide, sulfur, tetracyclines, doxycycline, clindamycin, clindamycin phosphate, erythromycin and / or minocycline, azelaic acid, calcium dobesylate, caffeine, theobromine, theophylline and / or their derivatives (i.e., xanthines), vitamin A, vitamin B1, vitamin B2, vitamin B3, vitamin B5, vitamin B6, vitamin B7, vitamin B9, vitamin B12, vitamin C, vitamin D, vitamin E and vitamin K, creatine,carnitine, and essential fatty acids such as linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid, zinc salts such as, for example, zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, zinc glycinate, zinc gluconate, zinc histidine, zinc L-2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate (zinc PCA), a zinc salt of linoleic acid, a zinc salt of linolenic acid, a zinc salt of azelaic acid, zinc peptides, zinc oxide, copper salts such as, but not limited to, copper sulfate, copper chloride, copper glycinate, copper gluconate, copper histidine, copper L-2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate (copper PCA), a copper salt of linoleic acid, a copper salt of linolenic acid, a copper salt of azelaic, copper peptides, ,

[0056] In various embodiments, the one or more skin active agents are optionally selected from madecassoside, retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (pyridoxine or chloride), selenium, samphire, cinnamon extract mixtures, zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidonecarboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cystate, copper and copper pidolate as Cuivridone Solabia, plant extracts of Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha pipenta, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia officinalis and Thymus vulgaris, meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria) extracts and their mixtures.

[0057] In various embodiments, one or more cutaneous active agents may be selected from adenosine, 2-[4-(2-hydroxyethyl)piperazin-1-yl]ethanesulfonic acid ue (HEPES), hyaluronic acid, lanolin, citric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, salicylic acid, vitamin C, a vitamin, a retinoid, a retinal, a retinoic acid, a carotenoid, an amino acid, a protein, an enzyme, and a coenzyme. In some cases, the active ingredient is adenosine.

[0058] The cutaneous active agent may be chosen from lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, AHA, BHA, sodium pidolate, serine, sodium lactate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, an extract of Imperata cylindra sold under the name Moist 24 by Sederma, homopolymers of acrylic acid as Lipidure-HM from NOF Corporation, beta-glucan and in particular carboxymethyl beta-glucan sodium Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry, a mixture of passion flower, apricot, corn, and rice bran oils sold by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids, a C-glycoside derivative, in particular C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, for example, such as the product manufactured by the company Chimex under the trade name “Mexoryl SBB”, a rosehip oil marketed by Nestlé, an extract of micro-algae Prophyridium cruentum enriched with zinc, marketed under the name Vincience Algualane Zinc,marine collagen and chondroitin sulfate spheres (Atelocollagen) sold by Engelhard Lyon under the name Marine Filling Spheres, hyaluronic acid spheres such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon, and arginine.

[0059] Depigmenting agents include vitamin C and its derivatives and in particular vitamin CG, CP and 3-O ethyl vitamin C, alpha and beta-arbutin, ferulic acid, lucinol and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, tranexamic acid and its derivatives, gentisic acid, homogentisic acid, methyl gentisate or homogentisate, dioic acid, D-panthetin calcium sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, ceramides and their counterparts, derived from plants such as chamomile, red strawberry, the aloe family (vera, ferox, bardensis), blackberry, skullcap, a fruit of the kiwi (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa root, such as that sold by Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Liquid Botanpi Be,a brown sugar (Saccharum officinarum) extract such as the molasses extract marketed by Taiyo Kagaku under the name Liquid Molasses, but this list is not exhaustive. Particular depigmenting agents include vitamin C and its derivatives, and in particular vitamin CG, CP and 3-0 ethyl vitamin C, alpha and beta-arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, panthetin D calcium sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, a kiwi fruit (Actinidiadia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, a Paeonia suffruticosa root extract, such as that sold by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B. ,

[0060] Useful skin active agents include adenosine and its derivatives and retinol and its derivatives, such as retinyl palmitate, ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; tocopherol and its derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinic acid and its precursors such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and its precursors such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid, C-glycoside compounds and their derivatives as described in particular in EP-1345919, in particular C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane as described in particular in EP-1345919, plant extracts including sea fennel and olive leaf extracts, as well as their hydrolyzed derivatives such as protein hydrolysates or soy proteins, algae extracts and in particular laminaria, bacterial extracts,sapogenins such as diogenin and Dioscorea plant extracts, in particular wild yam, including: α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides and their acyl derivatives, in particular {2-[acetyl-(3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl)-amino]-3-methyl-}acetic acid and lipopeptides marketed by the company under the trade names SEDERMA Matrixyl 500 and Matrixyl 3000; lycopene, manganese salts and magnesium salts, in particular gluconates, and mixtures thereof.

[0061] Adenosine derivatives include in particular non-phosphate derivatives of adenosine, such as in particular 2'-deoxyadenosine, 2',3'-adenosine isopropoylidene; toyocamycin, 1-methyladenosine, N-6-methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide, 6-methylmercaptopurine riboside and 6-chloropurine riboside.

[0062] Other derivatives include adenosine receptor agonists such as phenylisopropyl adenosine ("PIA"), 1-methylisoguanosine, N6-cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N6-cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro-N6-cyclopentyladenosine, 2-chloroadenosine, N6-phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, MECA, N6-phenethyladenosine, 2-p-(2-carboxy-ethyl) phenethyl-amino-5'- -N-ethylcarboxamido adenosine (CGS-21680), N-ethylcarboxamido-adenosine (NECA), 5'(N-cyclopropyl)-carboxamidoadenosine, DPMA (PD 129,944) and metrifudil.

[0063] In one embodiment, the composition comprises an active ingredient that treats oily skin. These active substances may be sebum-regulating or antiseborrheic agents capable of regulating the activity of the sebaceous glands. These include: retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (pyridoxine or) chloride, selenium, sea fennel; —mixtures of cinnamon, tea and octanoylglycine extracts such as Seppic's 15 Sepicontrol A5 TEA; —the mixture of cinnamon, sarcosine and octanoylglycine marketed in particular by Seppic under the trade name Sepicontrol A5; —zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidonecarboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate 20, zinc cystate; —derivatives in particular copper and copper pidolate in the form of Cuivridone Solabia—plant extracts of Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha pipenta, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia officinalis and Thymus vulgaris, all marketed for example by Maruzen; —extracts of meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria), such as those sold under the name Sebonormine by Silab; —extracts of the algae Laminaria saccharina, such as those sold under the name Phlorogine by Biotechmarine;—root extracts of mixtures of crown vetch (Sanguisorba officinalis / Poterium officinale), ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis) and cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as those sold under the name Sebustop by Solabia; —flax seed extracts such as those sold under the name Linumine by Lucas Meyer; —Phellodendron extracts such as those sold under the name Phellodendron Extract BG by Maruzen or Oubaku liquid B by Ichimaru Pharcos; —mixtures of argan oil, Serenoa serrulata (saw palm) extract and sesame seeds such as those sold under the name Regu SEB by Pentapharm; —mixtures of extracts of willowherb, Terminalia chebula, nasturium and bioavailable zinc (microalgae), such as those sold under the name Seborilys Green Tech; —extracts of Pygeum afrianum such as those sold under the name Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract by Euromed;—Serenoa serrulata extracts such as those sold under the name Viapure Sabal by Actives International, and those sold by the company Euromed; —mixture extracts of plantain, Berberis aquifolium and sodium salicylate such as those sold under the name Seboclear Rahn; —clove extract such as that sold under the name Clove extract powder by Maruzen; argan oil such as that sold under the name Lipofructyl Laboratories Serobiologiques; —lactic protein filtrates, such as those sold under the name Normaseb by Sederma; —laminaria algae extracts, such as those sold under the name Laminarghane by Biotechmarine; —laminaria digitata algae oligosaccharides, such as those sold under the name Phycosaccharide 30 AC by the company Codif; —sugar cane extracts such as those sold under the name Policosanol by the company Sabinsa, sulfonated shale oil, such as that sold under the name Ichtyol Pale by Ichthyol;—extracts of meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria) such as those sold under the name Cytobiol Ulmaire by societeLibiol —sebacic acid, notably sold in the form of a sodium polyacrylate gel under the name Sebosoft by Sederma; —glucomannans extracted from konjac tuber and modified with alkylsulfonate chains such as those sold under the name Biopol Beta by Arch Chemical; — ; Sophora angustifolia extracts, such as those sold under the name Sophora powder or Sophora extract by Bioland; —quinquina succirubra bark extracts such as those sold under the name Red Bark HS by Alban Muller; —Quillaja saponaria extracts such as those sold under the name Panama wood HS by Alban Muller; —glycine grafted onto an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG or by SEPPIC; —the mixture of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid, such as that sold in gel form under the name AC.Net by Sederma; —phthalimidoperoxyhexanoic acid; —tri(C12-C13) citrate sold under the name COSMACOL ECI by Sasol; trialkyl(C14-C15) citrate sold under the name COSMACOL ECL by Sasol; —10-hydroxydecanoic acid, including mixtures of hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid, and 1,10-decandiol such as those sold under the name Acnacidol BG from Vincience and mixtures thereof.

[0064] Other skin active agents useful herein include those selected from N-acetyl D-glucosamine, panthenol (e.g., DL panthenol available from Alps Pharmaceutical Inc.), tocopheryl nicotinate, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, flavonoids (e.g., flavanone, chalcone), famesol, phytantriol, glycolic acid, lactic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, cis-retinoic acid, trans-retinoic acid, retinol, retinyl esters (e.g., retinyl propionate), phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, tocopherol and its esters (e.g., tocopheryl acetate: DL-a-tocopheryl acetate available from Eisai), azelaic acid, arachidonic acid, tetracycline, ibuprofen, naproxen, ketoprofen, hydrocortisone, acetaminophen, resorcinol,phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, octopirox, lidocaine hydrochloride, clotrimazole, miconazole, ketoconazole, neomycin sulfate, theophylline, and mixtures thereof.

[0065] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes one or more skin active agents selected from free ceramides, for example, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide AS, Ceramide AP, Ceramide NS, Ceramide NP, Ceramide NH, Ceramide AH, Ceramide EOH, Ceramide EOS, Ceramide AdS, Ceramide NdS and Ceramide EOdS, protein-bound ceramides, phytosphingosine, sphingosine, ceramide precursors, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, cholesterol, cholesterol sulfate, or combinations thereof.

[0066] In various embodiments, the total amount of skin active agents in the cosmetic composition of the disclosure may be in an amount of greater than zero to about 9% by weight, greater than zero to about 8% by weight, greater than zero to about 7% by weight, from greater than zero to about 6% by weight, from greater than zero to about 5% by weight, from greater than zero to about 4% by weight, from greater than zero to about 3% by weight, from greater than zero to about 2% by weight; from about 10 ppm to about 10 wt% (100,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 5 wt% (50,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 2.5 wt% (25,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 1 wt% (10,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 0.5 wt% (5,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 0.3 wt% (3,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 0.2 wt% (2,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 0.1 wt% (1,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to 500 ppm; from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 2.5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 1% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 0.5% by weight;from about 1 to about 10% by weight, from about 1 to about 8% by weight, from about 1 to about 6% by weight, from about 1 to about 5% by weight, from about 1 to about 4% by weight, from about 1 to about 3% by weight; from about 2 to about 10% by weight, from about 2 to about 8% by weight, from about 2 to about 6% by weight, from about 2 to about 5% by weight, from about 2 to about 4% by weight; from about 3 to about 10% by weight, from about 3 to about 8% by weight, from about 3 to about 6% by weight, from about 3 to about 5% by weight; from about 4 to about 10% by weight, from about 4 to about 8% by weight or from about 4 to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.; a. Surfactant#

[0067] As used herein, the term "surfactant" includes emulsifiers and detergents. Surfactants are compounds that reduce the surface tension between two liquids or between a liquid and a solid. Surfactants are amphiphilic, meaning they contain hydrophilic (water-loving) head groups and hydrophobic (water-unloving, oil-loving) tails. Surfactants adsorb at the interface between oil and water, thereby reducing the surface tension.

[0068] As used herein, an "emulsifier" is a surfactant that stabilizes emulsions. Emulsifiers coat the droplets of an emulsion and prevent them from clumping together or coalescing. An "emulsion" is a mixture of two or more liquids, with or without an emulsifier, that are normally immiscible. One of the liquids, the "dispersed phase," forms droplets in the other liquid, the "continuous phase."

[0069] A “detergent” is a surfactant that has cleaning properties in dilute solutions and is generally anionic.

[0070] The surfactants may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric (zwitterionic) or non-ionic. Preferably, the emulsions of the present case include one or more surfactants chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants (zwitterionic), nonionic surfactants, or mixtures thereof. In various embodiments, the emulsions are preferably free or essentially free of cationic surfactants. In other embodiments, the emulsions include one or more cationic surfactants. In preferred embodiments, the emulsions contain one or more biosurfactants, one or more anionic surfactants, optionally one or more nonionic surfactants, or mixtures thereof.

[0071] In a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present disclosure include a plurality of surfactants, wherein the plurality of surfactants includes one or more biosurfactants and one or more surfactants other than the one or more biosurfactants. In other embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure include one or more biosurfactants, one or more anionic surfactants, and, optionally, one or more nonionic surfactants.

[0072] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes one or more biosurfactants. In other embodiments, the cosmetic composition includes one or more biosurfactants and one or more additional surfactants other than the one or more biosurfactants selected from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, or combinations thereof. Biosurfactant

[0073] Biosurfactants are amphiphilic molecules, for example, glycolipids (e.g., sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, cellobiose lipids, mannosylerythritol lipids, and trehalose lipids), lipopeptides (e.g., surfactin, urin, fengycin, arthrofactin, and lichenysin), flavolipids, phospholipids (e.g., cardiolipins), fatty acid ester compounds, fatty acid ether compounds, and high molecular weight polymers such as lipoproteins, lipopolysaccharide-protein complexes, and polysaccharide-protein-fatty acid complexes.

[0074] Biosurfactants are environmentally friendly, biodegradable, and non-toxic and can be classified into high and low molecular weight biosurfactants. Low molecular weight biosurfactants effectively reduce surface and interfacial tension, and high molecular weight biosurfactants are more effective as agents for stabilizing emulsions. Examples of low molecular weight biosurfactants include glycolipids, such as rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, lipopeptides, and trehalolipids. These low molecular weight biosurfactants have hydrophilic heads composed of sugar units glycosidically linked to hydrophobic nonpolar portions. Examples of high molecular weight biosurfactants include polysaccharides, lipopolysaccharides, proteins, and lipoproteins. A polysaccharide-based biosurfactant can be classified into sorbitan esters, sucrose esters, and glucose-based surfactants, which include alkylpolyglycosides and fatty acid glucamides.

[0075] Non-limiting examples of biosurfactants include lipopeptides such as surfactin; fatty acids and phospholipids, polymer matrix biosurfactants; particulate biosurfactants; and bacterial biosurfactants composed of polysaccharides, proteins, lipopolysaccharides, lipoproteins, or complex mixtures of these biopolymers.

[0076] Non-limiting examples of commercially available biosurfactants include alkyl polyglycoside available under the trademark EcoSense® 3000 from Dow Chemical®; D-glucopranose, oligomeric, decyl octyl glycosides available under the trade name Glucopon® 215 from BASF Corporation®; rhamnolipids available under the trade name REWOFERM® SL ONE from Evonik®; D-Glucitol, l-deoxy-l-(methylamino)-, N-coco acyl derivatives available under the trade name GlucoTain® from Clariant®; rhamnolipids from Jeneil Biotech® and BioLoop® surfactants from Lankem® Ltd.

[0077] In one embodiment, the microbial biosurfactant is a glycolipid such as rhamnolipids (RLP), sophorolipids (SLP), trehalose lipid, or mannosylerythritol lipid (MEL). The biosurfactants may be added in purified form or may be present in the microbial-based composition due to microbial growth. The biosurfactant may be a sophorolipid. In some embodiments, the biosurfactant may also be a lipopeptide, such as surfactin, and / or a rhamnolipid.

[0078] In some embodiments, a mixture of biosurfactants is present. Preferably, the mixture comprises a rhamnolipid, and optionally one or both of a mannosylerythritol lipid, a surfactin, or a sophorolipid. In a preferred embodiment, the microbe is a non-pathogenic strain of Pseudomonas . Preferably, the strain is a rhamnolipid biosurfactant (RLP) producer.

[0079] Other microbial strains including, for example, other fungal strains capable of accumulating significant amounts of, for example, glycolipid biosurfactants may be used in accordance with the present invention. Biosurfactants useful according to the present invention include mannoprotein, beta-glucan and other metabolites that exhibit bioemulsifying and surface / interfacial tension reducing properties.

[0080] In various embodiments, the one or more biosurfactants are selected from surfactin, iturin, fengycin, lichenysin, serrawettin, phospholipids, rhamnolipid, sophorolipid, trehalolipid, mannosylerythritol lipids, cellobiolipids, lipoproteins, rubiwettins, trehalose, omithine, pentasaccharide lipids, viscosin, bacitracin, lipopeptides and combinations thereof. In one embodiment, the biosurfactants are selected from one or more glycolipids such as, for example, rhamnolipids, rhamnose-d-phospholipids, trehalose lipids, trehalose dimycolates, trehalose monomycolates, mannosylerythritol lipids, cellobiose lipids, ustilagic acid and / or sophorolipids.

[0081] In various embodiments, the biosurfactant has an anionic character, for example, sophorolipids, trehalolipid and rhamnolipids. Mono-rhamnolipids and di-rhamnolipids are preferred. The preferred alkyl chain length is C8 to C12. The alkyl chain may be saturated or unsaturated.

[0082] The term “rhamnolipids” includes compounds of general formula (II) and their salts, OH OH H

[0083] in which • mRL = 2, 1 or 0, • nRL = 1 or 0, • R1rl and R2rl = are independently organic residues having 2 to 24, preferably 5 to 13 carbon atoms, in particular optionally branched, optionally substituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, optionally unsaturated, in particular optionally mono-, bi- or tri-unsaturated alkyl residues, preferably those selected from the group consisting of pentenyl, heptenyl, nonenyl, undecenyl and tridecenyl and (CH2)O -CHs where o = 1 to 23, preferably 4 to 12. • If nRL = 1, the glycosidic bond between the two rhamnose units is preferably in the α-configuration. The optically active carbon atoms of the fatty acids are preferably present as R-enantiomers (e.g. I-3-{I-3-[2-O-(αL-rhamnopyranosyl)-αL-rhamnopyranos yl]oxydecanoyl}oxydecanoate).

[0084] The term "di-rhamnolipid" in the context of the present invention denotes compounds of the general formula (II) or their salts, where nRL=1.

[0085] The term "monorhamnolipid" in the context of the present invention denotes compounds of general formula (II) or their salts, where nRL=0.

[0086] The distinct rhamnolipids are abbreviated according to the following nomenclature: "diRL-CXCY" denotes the di-rhamnolipids of the general formula (II), in which one of the residues R1rl and R2rl=(CH2)o—CH3 where o=X-4 and the remaining residue R1 or R2=(CH2)O—CH3 where o=Y-4.

[0087] “monoRL-CXCY” denotes mono-rhamnolipids of general formula (II), in which one of the residues R1rl and R2RL=(CH.sub.2).sub.o—CH.sub.3 where o=X-4 and the remaining residue R1rl or R2rl=(CH2)o—CH3 where o=Y-4. The nomenclature used therefore does not distinguish between “CXCY” and “CYCX”.

[0088] For rhamnolipids where mRL=0, monoRL-CX or diRL-CX is used accordingly.

[0089] If one of the above-mentioned indices X and / or Y is provided with ":Z", this means that the respective residue R1rl and / or R2rl is equal to an unbranched, unsubstituted hydrocarbon residue having X-3 or Y-3 carbon atoms having Z double bonds.

[0090] Methods for preparing suitable rhamnolipids are disclosed, for example, in EP2786743 and EP2787065. Rhamolipids can also be produced by fermentation of Pseudomonas, in particular Pseudomonas aeruginosa, which are preferably non-genetically modified cells, a technology already disclosed in the eighties, as documented for example in EP0282942 and DE4127908. Rhamnolipids produced in Pseudomonas aeruginosa cells that have been improved to increase rhamnolipid titers by genetic modification can also be used in the context of the present invention; such cells have for example been disclosed by Lei et al. in Biotechnol Lett. Jun 2020;42(6):997-1002. Biosurfactants, in particular glycolipid surfactants, can be produced for example as described in EP 0 499 434, US Pat.No. 7 985 722, WO 03 / 006146, JP 60 183032, DE 19648439, DE 19600743, JP 01 304034, CN 1337439, . JP 2006 274233, KR 2004033376, JP 2006 083238, JP 2006 070231, WO 03 / 002700, FR 2740779, DE 2939519, US Patent No. 7,556,654, FR 2855752, EP 1445302, JP 2008 062179 and JP 2007 181789.

[0091] Rhamnolipids produced by Pseudomonas aeruginosa are commercially available from Jeneil Biotech Inc., for example under the trade name Zonix ®, from Logos Technologies (technology acquired by Stepan), for example under the trade name NatSurFact®, from Biotensidon GmbH, for example under the trade name Rhapynal®, from AGAE® Technologies, for example under the name R90, R95, R95Md, R95Dd, from Locus Bio-Energy Solutions and from Shanghai Yusheng Industry Co. Ltd., for example under the trade name Bio-201 Glycolipids®.

[0092] The total amount of the one or more biosurfactants in the cosmetic composition, if any, will vary, but may be from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of the one or more biosurfactants in the cosmetic composition is from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, or from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight. In another embodiment, the total amount of the one or more biosurfactants in the cosmetic composition is from about 0.5 to about 15% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.In yet another embodiment, the total amount of the one or more biosurfactants in the cosmetic composition is about 1 to about 15% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, or about 1 to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In preferred embodiments, the total amount of the one or more biosurfactants in the cosmetic composition is about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 6% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 4% by weight, or about 1 to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Anionic surfactants

[0093] Popular anionic surfactants known for their good detergent and foaming properties include sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth ether sulfate, which may be included. In other embodiments, it may be preferable that the cosmetic composition be free or essentially free of sulfate-based surfactants. In various embodiments, it may be preferable to include milder non-sulfate anionic surfactants, such as one or more anionic surfactants selected from alkyl sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acylisethionates, alkoxylated monobasic acids, amino acids acyls such as acyl taurates, acyl glycinates, acyl glutamates, acyl sarcosinates, their salts or mixtures thereof.

[0094] The total amount of the one or more anionic surfactants in the cosmetic composition will vary, but may be an amount of about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.In other embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include about 0.01 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 3 wt.%, about 1 to about 10 wt.%, about 1 to about 8 wt.%, about 1 to about 6 wt.%, about 1 to about 5 wt.% by weight or about 1 to about 3% by weight of the one or more anionic surfactants, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. a. Acyl isethionates #

[0095] Non-limiting examples of useful acyl isethionates include those of formulas (III) and (IV):

[0096] wherein R, R1, R2 and R3 are each independently selected from H or an alkyl chain having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched, and X is COO or SO3. Although sodium is represented as a cation in formulas (III) and (IV), the cation for formula (III) and formula (IV) may be an alkali metal ion such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions. Non-limiting examples of acyl isethionates include sodium isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate and sodium cocoyl methyl isethionate.

[0097]

[0098] In some embodiments, a combination of sodium isethionate and sodium cocoyl isethionate is preferred. a. Alkyl sulfonates# Examples of alkyl sulfonates include aryl alkyl sulfonates, primary alkane disulfonates, alkene sulfonates, hydroxyalkane sulfonates, alkyl glyceryl ether sulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, alkylphenolpolyglycol ether sulfonates, alkylbenzenesulfonates, phenylalkanesulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkene sulfonates, hydroxyalkane sulfonates and disulfonates, secondary alkanesulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, ester sulfonates, sulfonated fatty acid glycerol esters, and alpha-sulfo fatty acid methyl esters, including a methyl ester sulfonate. In some cases, an alkyl sulfonate of formula (V) is particularly useful.

[0099]

[0100] R is selected from H or an alkyl chain having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. Sodium is represented as a cation in formula (V) above, but the cation may be an alkali metal ion such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions. In some cases, the alkyl sulfonate(s) are selected from C8-C16 alkyl benzenesulfonates, C10-C20 paraffin sulfonates, C10-C24 olefin sulfonates, their salts and mixtures thereof. C10-C24 olefin sulfonates may be particularly preferred. A non-limiting example of a C10-C24 olefin sulfonate that may be used in the present compositions is sodium C14-C16 olefin sulfonate. a. Alkyl sulfosuccinates# Non-limiting examples of useful sulfosuccinates include those of formula (VI): (VI)

[0101] wherein R is a straight or branched chain alkyl or alkenyl group having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, X is a number which represents the average degree of ethoxylation and may range from 0 to about 5, preferably from 0 to about 4, and most preferably from about 2 to about 3.5, and M and M' are monovalent cations which may be the same or different from each other. Preferred cations are alkali metal ions such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions.

[0102] Non-limiting examples of alkyl sulfosuccinate salts include disodium oleamido MIPA sulfosuccinate, disodium oleamido MEA sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, diammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, diammonium laureth sulfosuccinate, dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium oleamide MEA sulfosuccinate, sodium dialkyl sulfosuccinate, and a mixture thereof. In some cases, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate is particularly preferred. a. Alkyl sulfoacetates#

[0103] Non-limiting examples of alkyl sulfoacetates include, for example, alkyl sulfoacetates such as C4-C18 fatty alcohol sulfoacetates and / or salts thereof. A particularly preferred sulfoacetate salt is sodium lauryl sulfoacetate. Useful cations for the salts include alkali metal ions such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions. a. Alkoxylated monobasic acids#

[0104] Non-limiting examples of alkoxylated monobasic acids include compounds corresponding to formula (VII):

[0105] RO[CH2O]u[(CH2)xCH(R')(CH2)y(CH2)zO]v[CH2CH2O]wCH2COOH(VII)

[0106] in which: • R is a hydrocarbon radical containing from about 6 to about 40 carbon atoms; • u, v and w, independently of each other, represent numbers from 0 to 60; • x, y and z, independently of each other, represent numbers from 0 to 13; • R' represents hydrogen, alkyl, and

[0107] the sum of x+y+z > 0;

[0108] Compounds corresponding to formula (VII) can be obtained by alkoxylation of alcohols ROH with ethylene oxide as the sole alkoxide, or with several alkoxides and subsequent oxidation. The numbers u, v and w each represent the degree of alkoxylation. While at the molecular level the numbers u, v and w and the total degree of alkoxylation can only be whole numbers, including zero, at the macroscopic level they are average values ​​in the form of fractional numbers.

[0109] In formula (VII), R is linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted or unsubstituted. Typically, R is an acyclic, linear or branched C6-C40 alkyl or alkenyl group, or a (C1-C40)alkylphenyl group, more typically a C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl group or a (C4-C18)alkylphenyl group, and even more typically a C12-C18 alkyl or alkenyl group or a (C6-C16)alkylphenyl group; u, v, w, independently of each other, are typically a number from 2 to 20, more typically a number from 3 to 17, and most typically a number from 5 to 15; x, y, z, independently of each other, are typically a number from 2 to 13, more typically a number from 1 to 10 and most typically a number from 0 to 8.

[0110] Suitable alkoxylated monobasic acids include, but are not limited to: Butoxynol-5 carboxylic acid, Butoxynol-19 carboxylic acid, Capryleth-4 carboxylic acid, Capryleth-6 carboxylic acid, Capryleth-9 carboxylic acid, Ceteareth-25 carboxylic acid, Coceth-7 carboxylic acid, C9-Cn pareth-6 carboxylic acid, Cn-Ci5 pareth-7 carboxylic acid, C12-Ci3 pareth-5 carboxylic acid, C12-Ci3 pareth-8 carboxylic acid, C12-Ci3 pareth-12 carboxylic acid, C12-Ci5 pareth-7 carboxylic acid, C12-Ci5 pareth-8 carboxylic acid, C14-Ci5 pareth-8 carboxylic acid, Deceth-7 carboxylic acid, laureth-3 carboxylic acid, laureth-4 carboxylic acid, laureth-5 carboxylic acid, laureth-6 carboxylic acid, laureth-8 carboxylic acid, laureth-10 carboxylic acid, laureth-11 carboxylic acid, laureth-12 carboxylic acid, laureth-13 carboxylic acid, laureth-14 carboxylic acid, laureth-17 carboxylic acid, PPG-6-laureth-6 carboxylic acid,PPG-8-steareth-7 carboxylic acid, myreth-3 carboxylic acid, myreth-5 carboxylic acid, nonoxynol-5 carboxylic acid, nonoxynol-8 carboxylic acid, nonoxynol-10 carboxylic acid, octeth-3 carboxylic acid, octoxynol-20 carboxylic acid, oleth-3 carboxylic acid, oleth-6 carboxylic acid, oleth-10 carboxylic acid, PPG-3-deceth-2 carboxylic acid, capryleth-2 carboxylic acid, ceteth-13 carboxylic acid, deceth-2 carboxylic acid, hexeth-4 carboxylic acid, isosteareth-6 carboxylic acid, isosteareth-11 carboxylic acid, trideceth-3 carboxylic acid, trideceth-6 carboxylic acid, trideceth-8 carboxylic acid, acid trideceth-12 carboxylic acid, trideceth-3 carboxylic acid, trideceth-4 carboxylic acid, trideceth-7 carboxylic acid, trideceth-15 carboxylic acid, trideceth-19 carboxylic acid, undeceth-5 carboxylic acid and mixtures thereof. In some cases, preferred ethoxylated acids include oleth-10 acid, carboxylic acid, laureth-5 carboxylic acid, laureth-11 carboxylic acid and a mixture thereof. a. A. Amino acyl acids#

[0111] Acyl amino acids that may be used include, but are not limited to, amino acid surfactants based on alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine, threonine, and taurine. The most common cation associated with the acyl amino acid may be sodium or potassium. Alternatively, the cation may be an organic salt such as triethanolamine (TEA) or a metal salt. Non-limiting examples of acyl amino acids include those of formula (VIII): o r2 r3 <viii) R i--C—N—CH--(CIBX—X“

[0112] wherein R, R1, R2 and R3 are each independently selected from H or an alkyl chain having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and X is COO or SO3. a. Acyl taurates

[0113] Non-limiting examples of acyl taurates include those of formula (IX): (IX)

[0114] wherein R, R1, R2 and R3 are each independently selected from H or an alkyl chain having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, or from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, or from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and X is COO or SO3. Non-limiting examples of acyl taurate salts include sodium cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl lauroyl taurate. a. Acyl glycinates#

[0115] Non-limiting examples of acyl glycinates include those of formula (X): RC—NHCH2COONa

[0116] wherein R is an alkyl chain of 8 to 16 carbon atoms. Although sodium is represented as a cation in formula (X) above, the cation may be an alkali metal ion such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions. Non-limiting examples of acyl glycinates include sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, and potassium cocoyl glycinate, and in particular potassium cocoyl glycinate. a. Acyl glutamates #

[0117] Non-limiting examples of acyl glutamates include those of formula (XI): O (XI) RC—NH HOOCCH2CH2CHCOONa

[0118] wherein R is an alkyl chain of 8 to 16 carbon atoms. Sodium is represented as a cation in formula (XI) above, but the cation may be an alkali metal ion such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions.Non-limiting examples of acyl glutamates include dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, undecylenoyl sodium glutamate, triethanolamine mono-cocoyl glutamate, triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate, and disodium cocoyl glutamate. In some cases, sodium stearoyl glutamate is particularly preferred. a. Acyl sarcosinates:

[0119] Non-limiting examples of acyl sarcosinates include potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate and ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate.

[0120] The total amount of the one or more anionic surfactants in the cosmetic composition, if any, will vary, but may be from about 0.01 to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of the one or more anionic surfactants in the cosmetic composition, if any, is from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Amphoteric surfactants

[0121] The multi-phase cleaning compositions may optionally include one or more amphoteric surfactants. Non-limiting examples of amphoteric surfactants include betaines, alkyl amphoacetates and alkyl amphodiacetates, alkyl sulltaines, alkyl amphopropionates, and combinations thereof.

[0122] Non-limiting examples of betaine surfactants include cocobetaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, laurylhydroxy sulfobetaine, lauryldimethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, behenyl betaine, capryl / capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, stearyl betaine, or mixtures thereof.

[0123] Non-limiting examples of alkyl amphoacetates and alkyl amphodiacetates include C8-C20 alkyl amphoacetates and C8-C20 alkyl amphodiacetates, such as disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylampho-dipropionate, disodium caprylomphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid, and combinations thereof.

[0124] The total amount of the one or more amphoteric surfactants in the cosmetic composition will vary, but may be from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the final cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include from about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 6% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, or about 1 to about 3% by weight of the one or more amphoteric surfactants, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Nonionic surfactants

[0125] The multi-phase cleaning compositions may optionally include one or more non-ionic surfactants. Non-limiting examples of non-ionic surfactants include alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkoxylated polyol esters, alkoxylated glycerides, glucosides, alkanolamides, sorbitan derivatives, or combinations thereof.

[0126] Non-limiting examples of alkoxylated fatty alcohols include laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-7, laureth-9, laureth-12, laureth-23, ceteth-10, steareth-10, steareth-2, steareth-100, beheneth-5, beheneth-5, beheneth-10, oleth-10, pareth alcohols, trideceth-10, trideceth-12, C12-13 pareth-3, C12-13 pareth-23, C11-15 pareth-7, PEG hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-75 lanolin, Polysorbate-80, Polysobate-20, PPG-5 ceteth-20, PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, glycereth-26 (PEG-26 glyceryl ether), PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate, PEG-120 methyl glucose trioleate, PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0127] Non-limiting examples of alkoxylated polyol esters include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (under the INCI names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (under the INCI names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (under the INCI names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (under the INCI names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 EO (INCI name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.

[0128] Non-limiting examples of alkoxylated glycerides include PEG-6 almond glycerides, PEG-20 almond glycerides, PEG-35 almond glycerides, PEG-60 almond glycerides, PEG-192 apricot kernel glycerides, PEG-11 avocado glycerides, PEG-14 avocado glycerides, PEG-11 babassu glycerides, PEG-42 babassu glycerides, PEG-4 caprylic / capric glycerides, PEG-6 caprylic / capric glycerides, PEG-7 caprylic / capric glycerides, PEG-8 caprylic / capric glycerides, butter glycerides PEG-11 Cocoa Butter Glycerides, PEG-75 Cocoa Butter Glycerides, PEG-7 Coconut Glycerides, PEG-9 Coconut Glycerides, PEG-20 Corn Glycerides, PEG-60 Corn Glycerides, PEG-20 Evening Primrose Glycerides, PEG-60 Evening Primrose Glycerides, PEG-5 Hydrogenated Corn Glycerides, PEG-8 Hydrogenated Fish Glycerides, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, PEG-6 Hydrogenated Palm / Palm Kernel Glycerides, PEG-16 Macadamia Nut Glycerides, PEG-70 Mango Glycerides, PEG-13 Mink Glycerides, PEG-25 Moringa Glycerides, PEG-42 Mushroom Glycerides, PEG-2 Olive Glycerides, Glycerides PEG-6 olive glycerides, PEG-7 olive glycerides, PEG-10 olive glycerides, PEG-40 olive glycerides, PEG-18 palm glycerides, PEG-12 palm kernel glycerides, PEG-45 palm kernel glycerides, PEG-60 passionflower seed glycerides, PEG-60 safflower glycerides,PEG-60 shea butter glycerides, PEG-75 shea butter glycerides, PEG-75 shea butter glycerides, PEG-35 soy glycerides, PEG-75 soy glycerides, PEG-2 sunflower glycerides, PEG-7 sunflower glycerides, PEG-10 sunflower glycerides, PEG-13 sunflower glycerides, PEG-5 tsubakiate glycerides, PEG-10 tsubakiate glycerides, PEG-20 tsubakiate glycerides, PEG-60 tsubakiate glycerides, PEG-8 sodium palm carboxylate glycerides, or mixtures thereof.

[0129] Non-limiting examples of glucosides (also known as "alkylpolyglucosides") include lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, or combinations thereof.

[0130] Non-limiting examples of alkanolamides include cocamide MIPA, cocamide DEA, cocamide MEA, cocamide DIPA, and mixtures thereof.

[0131] Non-limiting examples of sorbitan derivatives include polysorbates, e.g., polysorbate-20 (POE(20) sorbitan monolaurate), polysorbate-21 (POE(4) sorbitan monolaurate), polysorbate-40 (POE(20) sorbitan monopalmitate), polysorbate-60 (POE(20) sorbitan monostearate), polysorbate-61 (POE(4) sorbitan monostearate), polysorbate-65 (POE(20) sorbitan tristearate), polysorbate-80 (POE(20) sorbitan monooleate), polysorbate-81 (POE(4) sorbitan monooleate), polysorbate-85 (POE(20) sorbitan trioleate), sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan tristearate, or mixtures thereof.

[0132] The total amount of the one or more nonionic surfactants in the cosmetic composition will vary, but may be from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the final cosmetic composition. In other embodiments embodiment, the cosmetic composition may include from about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, from about 1 to about 10 ...0 to about 10% by weight, from about 0 to about 10% by weight, from about 0 to about 10% by weight, from about 0 to about 10% by weight, from about 0 to about 10% by weight, from about 0 to about 10% by weight, from about 0 to about 10% by weight, from about about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 6% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, or about 1 to about 3% by weight of the one or more nonionic surfactants, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Cationic surfactants

[0133] Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachimidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyldimethylamine, myristamidopropyldimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0134] The one or more cationic surfactants may be chosen from quaternary ammonium compounds, fatty dialkylamines, or mixtures thereof.

[0135] Non-limiting examples of quaternary ammonium compounds include cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, and combinations thereof.

[0136] Non-limiting examples of fatty dialkylamines include oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyl-dimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-propyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, their salts, and combinations thereof.

[0137] In various embodiments, the one or more cationic surfactants are preferably selected from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine or a mixture thereof.

[0138] The total amount of the one or more cationic surfactants in the cosmetic composition will vary, but may be from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.In other embodiments, the cosmetic composition includes from about 0.01 to about 8 wt%, from about 0.01 to about 6 wt%, from about 0.01 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.01 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 6 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 10 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 8 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 6 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, from about 1 to about 10 wt%, from about 1 to about 8% by weight, from about 1 to about 6% by weight, from about 1 to about 5% by weight, or from about 1 to about 3% by weight of the one or more cationic surfactants, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Water

[0139] The total amount of water in the cosmetic composition will vary, but may be from about 30 to about 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the mineral cosmetic. In other embodiments, the total amount of water may be about 30 to about 80 wt%, about 30 to about 70 wt%, about 30 to about 60 wt%, about 30 to about 50 wt%, about 40 to about 90 wt%, about 40 to about 80 wt%, about 40 to about 70 wt%, about 40 to about 60 wt%, about 40 to about 50 wt%, about 50 to about 90 wt%, about 50 to about 80 wt%, about 50 to about 70 wt%, about 50 to about 60 wt%, about 60 to about 90 wt%, about 60 to about 80 wt%, from about 50 to about 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Fatty alcohols

[0140] The cosmetic composition may optionally include one or more fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols generally include monohydric alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, although longer chain alcohols exceeding 30 carbons may be used. The fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohols may be straight or branched. In particular, the oil phase may comprise a straight chain saturated fatty alcohol with a terminal hydroxyl. Suitable fatty alcohols include decyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, icosyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol.

[0141] The total amount of the one or more fatty alcohols, if any, will vary, but may be from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of one or more fatty alcohols may be about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, about 2 to about 8 wt%, about 5 to about 10 wt%, or about 5 to about 15 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic compositions. Water-soluble solvent

[0142] The cosmetic composition optionally includes one or more water-soluble solvents. The term "water-soluble solvent" is interchangeable with the terms "water-soluble organic solvent" and "water-miscible solvent" and refers to a compound that is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and that has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, the water-soluble solvents have a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80% or 90%. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, organic solvents selected from glycerin, mono-alcohols (e.g., C2.8, C2.4 alcohols), polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols and a mixture thereof.

[0143] Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents include, for example, organic solvents selected from alcohols (e.g., C2.6, C2.4 alcohols), polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols and a mixture thereof. Non-limiting examples of monoalcohols and polyols include ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or their ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol. Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and propanediol.

[0144] Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents include alkanediols (polyhydric alcohols) such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol;glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether and dipropylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether;2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, l,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetin, diacetin, triacetin, sulfolane and a mixture thereof. ;

[0145] Polyhydric alcohols are useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and a mixture thereof. Polyol compounds may also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol and 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol and a mixture thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes one or more glycols selected from the group consisting of: among propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0146] The total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents in the cosmetic composition, if any, will vary, but may be from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 1 to about 20% by weight, from about 1 to about 15% by weight, from about 1 to about 10% by weight, or from about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Vitamins

[0147] The cosmetic composition may optionally include one or more vitamins for the skin. By "vitamins" is meant vitamins, provitamins and their salts, isomers and derivatives. Non-limiting examples of suitable vitamins include vitamin B compounds (including B1 compounds, B2 compounds, B3 compounds such as niacinamide, niacinnicotinic acid, tocopheryl nicotinate, C1-C18 nicotinic acid esters and nicotinyl alcohol; B5 compounds, such as panthenol or "pro-B5", pantothenic acid, pantothenyl; B6 compounds, such as pyroxidine, pyridoxal, pyridoxamine; carnitine, thiamine, riboflavin);vitamin A compounds and all natural and / or synthetic analogues of vitamin A, including retinoids, retinol, retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acid, retinaldehyde, retinyl propionate, carotenoids (pro-vitamin A) and other compounds that possess the biological activity of vitamin A; vitamin D compounds; vitamin K compounds; vitamin E compounds or tocopherol, including tocopherol sorbate, tocopherol acetate, other tocopherol esters and tocopherol compounds; vitamin C compounds, including ascorbate, ascorbyl esters of fatty acids and ascorbic acid derivatives, e.g., ascorbyl phosphates such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside and ascorbyl sorbate;and vitamin F compounds, such as saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids. In one embodiment, the composition comprises a vitamin selected from the group consisting of vitamin B compounds, vitamin C compounds, vitamin E compounds, and mixtures thereof. Alternatively, the vitamin is selected from the group consisting of niacinamide, tocopheryl nicotinate, pyroxidine, panthenol, vitamin E, vitamin E acetate, ascorbyl phosphates, ascorbyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof. ;

[0148] The total amount of the one or more vitamins, if any, will vary, but may be from about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. cosmetic. In other embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight or from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of one or more vitamins, based on the total weight of the mineral cosmetic. Antioxidants

[0149] The cosmetic compositions may optionally include one or more antioxidants. Suitable antioxidants include, but are not limited to, water-soluble antioxidants such as sulfhydryl compounds and derivatives thereof (e.g., sodium metabisulfite and N-acetyl cysteine), lipoic acid and dihydrolipoic acid, resveratrol, lactoferrin and ascorbic acid and ascorbic acid derivatives (e.g., ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl polypeptide and ascorbyl phosphate).

[0150] Oil-soluble antioxidants suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, butylated hydroxytoluene, retinoids (e.g., retinol and retinyl palmitate), tocopherols (e.g., tocopheryl acetate), sodium tocopheryl phosphate, tocotrienols, alkylresorcinols, curcurmin and its derivatives, and ubiquinone. Natural extracts containing antioxidants suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, extracts containing flavonoids and isoflavonoids and their derivatives (e.g., genistein and diadzein), extracts containing resveratrol, and the like. Examples of such natural extracts include grape seeds, green tea, pine bark, Phyllanthus emblica, and propolis.

[0151] The total amount of the one or more antioxidants, if any, will vary, but may be from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, or from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of one or more antioxidants, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Various ingredients

[0152] Cosmetic compositions may optionally include or exclude (or are substantially free of) one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Miscellaneous ingredients are ingredients that are compatible with the compositions and do not disrupt or materially affect the fundamental and novel properties of the compositions. Non-limiting examples of miscellaneous ingredients include: preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, etc.), composition colorants, etc. In various embodiments, the various ingredients are selected from preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, composition colorants, and mixtures thereof. In the context of the present disclosure, a “composition colorant” is a compound that colors the composition, but does not have an appreciable coloring effect on the hair.In other words, the composition colorant is included to impart coloring to the composition for aesthetic purposes, but is not intended to impart coloring properties to the hair. Hair styling gels, for example, may come in a variety of different colors (e.g., light blue, light pink, etc.), but applying the styling gel to the hair does not visibly change the color of the hair.

[0153] The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients in the cosmetic composition, if any, will vary, but may be an amount of about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.In other embodiments, the cosmetic composition includes about 0.1 to about 12 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 10 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 5 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 15 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 12 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 10 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 8 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 5 wt. %, about 1 to about 15 wt. %, about 1 to about 12 wt. %, about 1 to about 10 wt. %, about 1 to about 8 wt. %, about 1 to about 5 wt. %, about 2 to about 15 wt. %, about 2 to about 12 wt. %, about 2 to about 10 wt. %, about 2 to about 8 wt. %, or about 2 to about 5 wt. % of one or more various ingredients, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Aqueous phase

[0154] The cosmetic compositions are in the form of oil-in-water emulsions having an aqueous phase and an oily phase. The aqueous phase may constitute about 10 to about 90% by weight of the cosmetic composition, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the aqueous phase may constitute about 20 to about 80% by weight, about 30 to about 70% by weight, about 40 to about 60% by weight, about 10 to about 40% by weight, about 20 to about 50% by weight, about 30 to about 60% by weight, about 40 to about 80% by weight, about 50 to about 90% by weight, or about 60 to about 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Oily phase

[0155] The oil phase may constitute about 10 to about 90% by weight of the cosmetic composition, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the oil phase may constitute about 20 to about 80% by weight, about 30 to about 70% by weight, about 40 to about 60% by weight, about 10 to about 40% by weight, about 20 to about 50% by weight, about 30 to about 60% by weight, about 40 to about 80% by weight, about 50 to about 90% by weight, or about 60 to about 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Droplet size

[0156] In various embodiments, the average droplet size of the oil phase in the emulsions forming the cosmetic compositions is from about 10 nm to about 2 pm, from about 10 nm to about 1.5 pm, from about 10 nm to about 1 pm, from about 10 nm to about 800 nm, from about 10 nm to about 600 nm, from about 10 nm to about 500 nm, from about 10 nm to about 250 nm, from about 50 nm to about 2 pm, from about 50 nm to about 1.5 pm, from about 50 nm to about 1 pm, from about 50 nm to about 800 nm, from about 50 nm to about 600 nm, from about 50 nm to about 500 nm, from about 50 nm to about 250 nm, from about 100 nm to about 2 pm, from about 100 nm to about 1.5 pm, from about 100 nm to about 1 pm, from about 100 nm to about 800 nm, from about 100 nm to about 600 nm, from about 100 nm to about 500 nm, from about 100 nm to about 300 nm, from about 150 nm to about 500 nm, from about 150 nm to about 400 nm, from about 200 nm to about 500 nm,or from about 200 nm to about 300 nm. ,

[0157] Droplet size can be determined using Brookhaven Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS). DLS is a technique used to determine the size of droplets in a colloidal system or emulsion. When samples are illuminated with a monochromatic laser beam, the particles in the samples undergo Brownian motion, causing fluctuations in the intensity of the scattered light. The scattered light is then collected at different angles and the autocorrelation function of these intensity fluctuations is analyzed. The analysis provides information on the diffusion rate of the particles, from which the size distribution is inferred using mathematical models.Brookhaven's DLS instruments use advanced algorithms to accurately interpret data, providing insights into the dynamic behavior and size characteristics of particles ranging from a few nanometers to several micrometers in a liquid medium. Embodiments .

[0158] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of: a. about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of a hydrophobic polymer, which is a reaction product of a natural or food-derived oil and a methacrylate or acrylate polymer, wherein preferably,

[0159] the hydrophobic polymer is a reaction product of: (a)(i) a natural or food-derived oil selected from linseed oil, sunflower oil, tung oil, fish oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil or combinations thereof, preferably linseed oil, and (a)(ii) a polymer derived from monomers selected from isobutyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl methacrylate and combinations thereof, preferably an isobutyl methacrylate polymer, wherein even more preferably,

[0160] the hydrophobic polymer is the reaction product of a linseed oil and a poly(isobutyl methacrylate); a. one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the reaction product of (a), in which preferably,

[0161] the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the reaction product of (a) have a dispersion component (D), a polar component (P) and a hydrogen bonding component (H), and a distance (Ra) less than or equal to 13.4 MPa0.5 according to the Hansen solubility parameters, in which the distance (Ra) is defined by the formula (I): [°1621 Ra = + (P - P^ + (H - h / ®

[0163] in which • Dr is 16.8 MPa0'5, • Pi is 4.8 MPa0'5, and • Hi is 13.0 MPa0.5, in which, more preferably,

[0164] the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the reaction product of (a) have a dispersion component (D), a polar component (P) and a hydrogen bond component (H), and a distance (Ra) less than or equal to 9.9 MPa0.5 according to the Hansen solubility parameters, in which the distance (Ra) is defined by the formula (I): [°1651 Ra = + (P - Pj2 + (H - ®

[0166] in which • Di is 16.4 MPa0'5, • Pr is 5.0 MPa0'5, and • IP is 11.7 MPa0'5, wherein, even more preferably,

[0167] at least one of the one or more solvents capable of dissolving the hydrophobic polymer of (a) is chosen from dioctylcyclohexane, a mineral oil, isocetyl palmitate, isocetyl palmitate, cyclopentasiloxane, dicaprylyl carbonate, octyl isostearate, trimethylhexyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl ether, dihexyl carbonate, a polydecene, octyl cocoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isohexyl decanoate, isodecyl octanoate, dihexyl ether, isododecane, 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoate isodecyl oleate, oleyl erucate, passiflora incamata oil, jojoba oil, octyl palmitate, macadamia nut oil, isopropyl stearate, rapeseed oil, hexyldecanol, isotridecyl 3,5,5-trimethylhexanonanoate, polycitronellol acetate, decanoyl and octanoyl glycerides mixed,2-ethylhexanoic acid, 3,5,5-trimethyl ester, cetearyl octanoate, dimethicone, isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecanol, dioctyl adipate, isopropyl myristate, octyl palmitate (2-ethylhexyl palmitate), octyldodecyl myristate, butyloctanoic acid, isopropyl stearate, caprylic / capric triglycerides, isopropyl isostearate, jojoba oil, cyclomethicone, peanut oil, almond oil, sunflower oil, decyl oleate, avocado oil, olive oil, dibutyl adipate, castor oil, calendula oil, wheat germ oil, decyl oleate, avocado oil, calendula oil, propylene glycol monoisostearate, cocoglycerides, butylene glycol caprylate / caprate, a C12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic / capric diglyceryl succinate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, cetearyl isonoanoate, cetearyl octanoate, cetyl dimethicone,coco caprylate / caprate, cocoglycerides, di-C12-13 alkyl tartaric acid, dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether, hexyldecanol, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, isohexadecane, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, octyl octanoate, octyl palmitate, octyl stearate, octyldodecanol, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl stearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, phenyl trimethicone, polydecene, dicaprylate / dicaprate propylene glycol, stearyl heptanoate, tricaprylin, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, triisostearin or combinations thereof; , a. one or more skin active agents, wherein preferably the one or more skin active agents include a ceramide; b. about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight of one or more surfactants, preferably a plurality of surfactants; and c. water; d. optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, preferably wherein the one or more miscellaneous ingredients, if any, are selected from preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, etc.), composition colorants, wherein, if any, they are preferably in an amount of about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight;

[0168] wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0169] The average droplet size in the dispersion is preferably from about 10 nm to about 1 pm, from about 10 nm to about 800 nm, from about 10 nm to about 600 nm, from about 10 nm to about 500 nm, from about 10 nm to about 250 nm, from about 50 nm to about 1 pm, from about 50 nm to about 800 nm, from about 50 nm to about 600 nm, from about 50 nm to about 500 nm, from about 50 nm to about 250 nm, from about 100 nm to about 1 pm, from about 100 nm to about 800 nm, from about 100 nm to about 600 nm, from about 100 nm to about 500 nm, from about 100 nm to about 300 nm, from about 150 nm to about 500 nm, from about 150 nm to about 400 nm, from about 200 nm to about 500 nm, or from about 200 nm to about 300 nm.

[0170] The pH of the cosmetic composition may be from about 4.5 to about 8.5. In other embodiments, the pH of the emulsion may be from about 5 to about 8, from about 5 to about 7, from about 5 to less than 7, from about 4.5 to about 6.5, from about 5 to about 6.5, from about 5.5 to about 6.5, from about 5 to about 6, or from about 6 to about 7.5.

[0171] In preferred embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises, consists of, or consists essentially of: a. about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of a hydrophobic polymer, which is a reaction product of a natural or food-derived oil and a methacrylate or acrylate polymer, wherein preferably,

[0172] the hydrophobic polymer is a reaction product of: (a)(i) a natural or food-based oil chosen from linseed oil, sunflower oil, tung, fish oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil or combinations thereof, preferably linseed oil, and (a)(ii) a polymer derived from monomers selected from isobutyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl methacrylate and combinations thereof, preferably an isobutyl methacrylate polymer, wherein even more preferably,

[0173] the hydrophobic polymer is the reaction product of a linseed oil and a poly(isobutyl methacrylate); a. about 0.1 to about 25% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 15 % by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the reaction product of (a), wherein preferably,

[0174] the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the reaction product of (a) have a dispersion component (D), a polar component (P) and a hydrogen bonding component (H), and a distance (Ra) less than or equal to 13.4 MPa0.5 according to Hansen solubility parameters, in which the distance (Ra) is defined by the formula (I):

[0175]

[0176] G 71i (2 (I) Ra^^D-DJ +(P-Pj + (HH}) in which • Dr is 16.8 MPa0'5, • Pi is 4.8 MPa0'5, and • Hi is 13.0 MPa0.5, in which, more preferably,

[0177] the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the reaction product of (a) have a dispersion component (D), a polar component (P) and a hydrogen bond component (H), and a distance (Ra) less than or equal to 9.9 MPa0.5 according to the Hansen solubility parameters, in which the distance (Ra) is defined by the formula (I):

[0178]

[0179] nv? / \2 7 72 (I) Ra^^DD^ +(PP^ +{H-Hj in which • Di is 16.4 MPa0'5, • Pi is 5.0 MPa0'5, and • Fold is 11.7 MPa0.5, in which, even more preferably,

[0180] at least one of the one or more solvents capable of dissolving the hydrophobic polymer of (a) is selected from dioctylcyclohexane, a mineral oil, isocetyl palmitate, isocetyl palmitate, cyclopentasiloxane, dicaprylyl carbonate, octyl isostearate, trimethylhexyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl ether, dihexyl carbonate, a polydecene, octyl cocoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isohexyl decanoate, isodecyl octanoate, dihexyl ether, isododecane, isodecyl 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoate, oleyl erucate, passiflora incamata oil, jojoba oil, octyl palmitate, macadamia nut oil, isopropyl stearate, rapeseed oil, hexyldecanol, isotridecyl 3,5,5-trimethylhexanonanoate, polycitronellol acetate, mixed decanoyl and octanoyl glycerides, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, 3,5,5-trimethyl ester, octanoate cetearyl alcohol, dimethicone, isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecanol, dioctyl adipate, isopropyl myristate, octyl palmitate (2-ethylhexyl palmitate), octyldodecyl myristate, butyloctanoic acid, isopropyl stearate, caprylic / capric triglycerides, isopropyl isostearate, jojoba oil, cyclomethicone, peanut oil, almond oil, sunflower oil,Decyl oleate, avocado oil, olive oil, dibutyl adipate, castor oil, calendula oil, wheat germ oil, decyl oleate, avocado oil, calendula oil, propylene glycol monoisostearate, cocoglycerides, butylene glycol caprylate / caprate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, diglyceryl caprylic / capric succinate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, cetearyl isononanoate, cetearyl octanoate, cetyl dimethicone, coco caprylate / caprate, cocoglycerides, di-C12-13 alkyl tartaric acid, dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether, hexyldecanol, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, isohexadecane, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, octyl octanoate, octyl palmitate, octyl stearate, octyldodecanol, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl stearate,pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, phenyl trimethicone, polydecene, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, stearyl heptanoate, tricaprylin, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, triisostearin or combinations thereof; , a. about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of one or more skin active agents; wherein preferably, at least one of the one or more skin active agents is a ceramide selected from ceramide EOP, ceramide AS, ceramide AP, ceramide NS, ceramide NP, ceramide NH, ceramide AH, ceramide EOH, ceramide EOS, ceramide AdS, ceramide NdS, ceramide EOdS, or mixtures thereof; b. about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight of one or more surfactants, wherein the surfactants are selected from:

[0181] (d)(i) one or more biosurfactants, preferably wherein at least one of one or more biosurfactants is a glycolipid selected from sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, trehalose lipids, mannosylerythritol lipids and combinations thereof, wherein preferably at least one of the one or more biosurfactants is a rhamnolipid; and / or

[0182] (d)(ii) one or more additional surfactants other than the one or more biosurfactants of (d)(i), preferably wherein the one or more additional surfactants other than the biosurfactants of (d)(i) include one or more anionic surfactants, one or more nonionic surfactants, one or more amphoteric surfactants, or a combination thereof; a. about 75 to about 95% by weight, preferably about 80 to about 95% by weight, more preferably about 85 to about 93% by weight of water; b. optionally, one or more water-soluble solvents, preferably wherein the one or more water-soluble solvents, if any, are selected from monoalcohols (e.g., C2-x or C2-4 alcohols), polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols and a mixture thereof, wherein, if any, the one or more water-soluble solvents are in an amount of about 0.01 to about 20% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 10% by weight; and c. optionally, one or more film-forming polymers; and d. optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, preferably in wherein the one or more miscellaneous ingredients, if any, are selected from preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, etc.), composition colorants, wherein, if any, they are preferably in an amount of about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight;

[0183] wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, and

[0184] all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.

[0185] The average droplet size is preferably from about 10 nm to about 1 pm, from about 10 nm to about 800 nm, from about 10 nm to about 600 nm, from about 10 nm to about 500 nm, from about 10 nm to about 250 nm, from about 50 nm to about 1 pm, from about 50 nm to about 800 nm, from about 50 nm to about 600 nm,

[0186]

[0187]

[0188]

[0189]

[0190]

[0191]

[0192] from about 50 nm to about 500 nm, from about 50 nm to about 250 nm, from about 100 nm to about 1 pm, from about 100 nm to about 800 nm, from about 100 nm to about 600 nm, from about 100 nm to about 500 nm, from about 100 nm to about 300 nm, from about 150 nm to about 500 nm, from about 150 nm to about 400 nm, from about 200 nm to about 500 nm, or from about 200 nm to about 300 nm. The pH of the cosmetic composition may be from about 4.5 to about 8.5. In other embodiments, the pH of the emulsion may be from about 5 to about 8, from about 5 to about 7, from about 5 to less than 7, from about 4.5 to about 6.5, from about 5 to about 6.5, from about 5.5 to about 6.5, from about 5 to about 6, or from about 6 to about 7.5. In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of: a. about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of a hydrophobic polymer which is the reaction product of a linseed oil and a poly(isobutyl methacrylate); b. about 5 to about 60% by weight, preferably about 10 to about 50% by weight, more preferably about 20 to about 45% by weight of one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the reaction product of (a), wherein preferably, the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the reaction product of (a) have a dispersion component (D), a polar component (P) and a hydrogen bonding component (H), and a distance (Ra) less than or equal to 13.4 MPa0.5 according to the Hansen solubility parameters, wherein the distance (Ra) is defined by the formula (I): Ra = + (P - P^ + (H - H ® in which • Dr is 16.8 MPa0'5, • Pi is 4.8 MPa0'5, and • Hi is 13.0 MPa0.5, in which, more preferably, the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the reaction product of (a) have a dispersion component (D), a polar component (P) and a hydrogen bond component (H), and a distance (Ra) less than or equal to 9.9 MPa0.5 according to the Hansen solubility parameters, wherein the distance (Ra) is defined by the formula (I): Ra = - ü / + (P - Pj)2 + (H - ®

[0193] in which • Dr is 16.4 MPa0'5, • Pi is 5.0 MPa0'5, and • Hr is 11.7 MPa0'5, wherein, even more preferably,

[0194] at least one of the one or more solvents capable of dissolving the hydrophobic polymer of (a) is chosen from dioctylcyclohexane, a mineral oil, isocetyl palmitate, isocetyl palmitate, cyclopentasiloxane, dicaprylyl carbonate, octyl isostearate, trimethylhexyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl ether, dihexyl carbonate, a polydecene, octyl cocoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isohexyl decanoate, isodecyl octanoate, dihexyl ether, isododecane, 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoate isodecyl oleate, oleyl erucate, passiflora incamata oil, jojoba oil, octyl palmitate, macadamia nut oil, isopropyl stearate, rapeseed oil, hexyldecanol, isotridecyl 3,5,5-trimethylhexanonanoate, polycitronellol acetate, decanoyl and octanoyl glycerides mixed,2-ethylhexanoic acid, 3,5,5-trimethyl ester, cetearyl octanoate, dimethicone, isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecanol, dioctyl adipate, isopropyl myristate, octyl palmitate (2-ethylhexyl palmitate), octyldodecyl myristate, butyloctanoic acid, isopropyl stearate, caprylic / capric triglycerides, isopropyl isostearate, jojoba oil, cyclomethicone, peanut oil, almond oil, sunflower oil, decyl oleate, avocado oil, olive oil, dibutyl adipate, castor oil, calendula oil, wheat germ oil, decyl oleate, avocado oil, calendula oil, propylene glycol monoisostearate, cocoglycerides, butylene glycol caprylate / caprate, a C12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic / capric diglyceryl succinate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, cetearyl isonoanoate, cetearyl octanoate, cetyl dimethicone,coco caprylate / caprate, cocoglycerides, di-C12-13 alkyl tartaric acid, dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether, hexyldecanol, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, isohexadecane, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, octyl octanoate, octyl palmitate, octyl stearate, octyldodecanol, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl stearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, phenyl trimethicone, polydecene, dicaprylate / dicaprate propylene glycol, stearyl heptanoate, tricaprylin, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, triisostearin or combinations thereof; , a. about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of one or more skin active agents; wherein preferably, at least one of the one or more skin active agents is a ceramide selected from ceramide EOP, ceramide AS, ceramide AP, ceramide NS, ceramide NP, ceramide NH, ceramide AH, ceramide EOH, ceramide EOS, ceramide AdS, ceramide NdS, ceramide EOdS, or mixtures thereof; b. about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight of one or more surfactants, preferably a plurality of surfactants, wherein the plurality of surfactants are preferably selected from

[0195] (d)(i) one or more biosurfactants, preferably wherein at least one of one or more biosurfactants is a glycolipid selected from sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, trehalose lipids, mannosylerythritol lipids and combinations thereof, wherein preferably at least one of the one or more biosurfactants is a rhamnolipid; and / or

[0196] (d)(ii) one or more additional surfactants other than the one or more biosurfactants of (d)(i), preferably wherein the one or more additional surfactants other than the biosurfactants of (d)(i) include one or more anionic surfactants, one or more nonionic surfactants, one or more amphoteric surfactants, or a combination thereof; a. about 30 to about 90% by weight, preferably about 40 to about 80% by weight, more preferably about 40 to about 70% by weight of water; b. optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, preferably wherein the one or more miscellaneous ingredients, if any, are selected from preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, etc.), composition colorants, wherein, if any, they are preferably in an amount of about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight;

[0197] wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0198] The average droplet size in the dispersion is preferably from about 10 nm to about 1 pm, from about 10 nm to about 800 nm, from about 10 nm to about 600 nm, from about 10 nm to about 500 nm, from about 10 nm to about 250 nm, from about 50 nm to about 1 pm, from about 50 nm to about 800 nm, from about 50 nm to about 600 nm, from about 50 nm to about 500 nm, from about 50 nm to about 250 nm, from about 100 nm to about 1 pm, from about 100 nm to about 800 nm, from about 100 nm to about 600 nm, from about 100 nm to about 500 nm, from about 100 nm to about 300 nm, from about 150 nm to about 500 nm, from about 150 nm to about 400 nm, from about 200 nm to about 500 nm, or from about 200 nm to about 300 nm.

[0199] The pH of the cosmetic composition may be from about 4.5 to about 8.5. In other embodiments, the pH of the emulsion may be from about 5 to about 8, from about 5 to about 7, from about 5 to less than 7, from about 4.5 to about 6.5, from about 5 to about 6.5, from about 5.5 to about 6.5, from about 5 to about 6, or from about 6 to about 7.5. EXAMPLES

[0200] An implementation of the present disclosure is provided by means of the following examples. The examples serve to illustrate the technology without being limiting in nature. Example 1

[0201] Composition A is a composition of the invention containing MycelX®. Composition B is identical to Composition A, but does not include MycelX®. Composition A of the invention was prepared by first combining MycelX® (Composition A), caprylic / capric triglyceride, surfactants (mRhamnolipid and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate), and ceramide, with only a small amount of water (about 15 to about 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the final cosmetic composition). A homogeneous composition was obtained, which was further diluted with water and gently mixed or stirred to form the final oil-in-water emulsion. Comparative Composition B was prepared based on a standard preparation procedure for oil-in-water emulsions. The ingredients were combined, without generating a first composition with a limited amount of water.The composition was processed using a high-speed Silverson homogenizer capable of generating fine droplet sizes in the range of 2 to 5 microns. Although the compositions were subjected to the high-speed homogenization process, the droplet size of the resulting emulsions was greater than 1 micron.

[0202] [Tables2] Comparative Invention AB (a) MYCELX®1 0.5 (b) caprylic / capric triglyceride 0.3 0.3 (c) m-RHAMNOLIPID 0.6 0.6 SODIUM METHYL COCOYL TAURATE 0.2 0.2 (d) Ceramides2 1 1 (e) Water QS QS DROPLET SIZE BY DILUTIO N 1:100 [nm] -150 nm > 4 pm Stable 45 °C 2 months Yes No Young's Modulus by AFM (Mpa) - 60-300 ND

[0203] 1 Product of the reaction of a linseed oil and a methacrylate polymer isobutyl

[0204] 2 Mixture of ceramide-EOP, ceramide-NP and ceramide-EP

[0205] After the emulsions were formed, the compositions were further diluted at a ratio of 1:100 with water and the droplet size was measured by Brookhaven Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS). DLS is a technique used to determine the droplet size in a colloidal system or emulsion. A Brookhaven instrument was used to determine the particle size distribution of the particles in each sample. When the samples are illuminated with a monochromatic laser beam, the particles in the samples undergo Brownian motion, which causes fluctuations in the intensity of the scattered light. The scattered light is then collected at different angles and the autocorrelation function of these intensity fluctuations is analyzed.The analysis provides information on the diffusion rate of particles, from which the size distribution is inferred using mathematical models. Brookhaven's DLS instruments use advanced algorithms to accurately interpret the data, providing insights into the dynamic behavior and size characteristics of particles ranging from a few nanometers to several micrometers in a liquid medium.

[0206] Cryo-scanning electron microscopy (Cryo-SEM) was used to visualize the droplets / spherical structures formed in Composition A of the invention. Cryo-SEM is a technique used to examine the ultrastructure of biological and other samples at cryogenic temperatures. It involves rapidly freezing the sample to preserve its native structure, transferring it to the SEM chamber while maintaining cryogenic conditions, and then imaging the sample surface using electrons. This method provides high-resolution images of samples, minimizing damage by beam and charging effects, making it suitable for various applications including structural analysis, cellular imaging and the study of soft materials. An image of a spherical droplet / structures formed in Composition A of the invention is shown in the figure.

[0207] Atomic force microscopy (AFM) is a high-resolution imaging and surface characterization technique used in nanoscience, materials science, and biology. AFM works by scanning a sharp tip (typically a few nanometers in diameter) attached to a flexible cantilever very close to the sample surface. The interaction forces between the tip and the sample surface cause the cantilever to deflect, and this deflection is measured to create high-resolution images and gather information about surface properties. AFM can provide nanoscale topographical information, measure mechanical properties, and even manipulate individual atoms and molecules on a surface. The spherical droplets / structures formed in Composition A of the invention were evaluated by AFM.They were smaller (<1 micron) and more uniformly dispersed (monodispersed) than the droplets of comparative composition B, and they exhibited a soft shell and a hard core with a Young's modulus of ~60 at 300 Mpa by AFM.

[0208] The foregoing description illustrates and describes the disclosure. Furthermore, the disclosure only shows and describes the preferred embodiments, but as aforesaid, it is to be understood that it may be used in various other combinations, modifications, and environments and may be subject to changes or modifications within the scope of the inventive concepts as expressed herein, consistent with the above teachings and / or the skill or knowledge of the relevant art. The embodiments described herein are further intended to explain the best modes known to the applicant and to enable others skilled in the art to use the disclosure in such or other embodiments and with the various modifications required by the particular applications or uses thereof.Accordingly, the description is not intended to limit the invention to the form disclosed herein. The appended claims are also intended to be construed as including other embodiments.

[0209] As used herein, the terms "comprising," "having," and "including" are used in their broad and non-limiting sense.

[0210] The terms "a", "an", "the" and "the" are understood to encompass the plural and the singular. Thus, the expression "a mixture thereof" also concerns "their mixtures". Throughout the disclosure, the expression "a mixture thereof" is used, after a list of elements as shown in the following example where the letters A through F represent the elements: "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture thereof." The phrase "a mixture thereof" does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F."

[0211] Similarly, the expression "a salt thereof" also relates to "salts thereof". Thus, when the disclosure refers to "a member selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof", it indicates that one or more of A, B, C, D and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included.

[0212] Salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not limiting. Suitable counterions for the components described herein are known in the art.

[0213] The expression “one or more” means “at least one” and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0214] The term “plurality” means “more than one” or “two or more”.

[0215] The term "transparent" with respect to a transparent composition indicates that the composition has a transmittance of at least 80% at a wavelength of 600 nm, measured, for example, using a Lambda 40 UV-visible spectrometer. The compositions may have, for example, a transmittance of at least 80%, at least 90%, or at least 95% at a wavelength of 600 nm, measured, for example, using a Lambda 40 UV-visible spectrometer. The term "clear" is interchangeable with the term "transparent" for the purposes of the present disclosure. In various embodiments, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure are transparent. This is due, at least in part, to the small size of the dispersed oil droplets.

[0216] The term "translucent" with respect to a translucent composition indicates that the composition has a transmittance of at least 50% at a wavelength of 600 nm, as measured, for example, using a Lambda 40 UV-visible spectrometer. In various embodiments, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure are translucent. This is due, at least in part, to the small size of the dispersed oil droplets.

[0217] Except in the working examples, or if otherwise indicated, all quantities expressing amounts of ingredients and / or reaction conditions may be modified in all cases by the term "about", meaning to within + / - 5% of the number indicated. Thus, for a range of "about 1 to about 10% by weight", the lower amount of "about 1% by weight" may extend up to 0.95% by weight, which is 5% less than 1% by weight. The upper amount of "about 10% by weight" may be up to 10.5% by weight, which is 5% more than 10% by weight, i.e., a range of "0.95% by weight to 10.5% by weight".

[0218] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise indicated.

[0219] Some of the various categories of components identified may overlap. In such cases where an overlap may exist and the composition includes both components (or the composition includes more than two overlapping components), an overlapping compound does not represent more than one component. For example, some compounds may be considered both an oily solvent and a surfactant. If a particular composition includes both an oily solvent and a surfactant, a single compound will serve solely as the oily solvent or solely as the surfactant (the single compound does not simultaneously serve as both the oily solvent and the surfactant).

[0220] As used herein, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, as well as each combination of subranges therein. Thus, a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as subranges such as 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc. All ranges and values ​​disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein may serve as a minimum or maximum value to infer a subrange, etc.

[0221] The term "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein means that there is less than about 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions. However, the compositions may include less than about 1% by weight, less than about 0.5% by weight, less than about 0.1% by weight, or none at all of the specified material. For example, if a composition is essentially free of compound X, the composition includes less than 2% by weight of compound X, or less than 1% by weight of compound X, or less than 0.5% by weight of compound X, or less than 0.1% by weight of compound X, or is free of compound X.

[0222] Any components presented positively in the present disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims, for example, a claimed composition may be “free,” “substantially free” (or “ substantially free”) of one or more components that are positively presented in the present disclosure.

Claims

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising: (a) a hydrophobic polymer formed as the reaction product of a natural or food-derived oil and a methacrylate or acrylate polymer; preferably wherein the hydrophobic polymer is the reaction product of about 72 to about 77 parts by weight of the natural or food-derived oil and about 23 to about 28 parts by weight of a methacrylate polymer, and even more preferably wherein the hydrophobic polymer is the reaction product of a linseed oil and a poly(isobutyl methacrylate); (b) one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the reaction product of (a); (c) one or more skin active agents; (d) one or more surfactants; and (e) water; wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the reaction product of (a) have a dispersion component (D), a polar component (P), a hydrogen bonding component (H), and a distance (Ra) of less than or equal to 13.4 MPa0'5 according to Hansen solubility parameters, wherein the distance (Ra) is defined by the formula (I): Ra^^D-üf + tP-P;)2 + ® wherein -Dr is 16.8 MPa0'5, - Pr is 4.8 MPa0'5, and -Hr is 13.0 MPa05.

3. A composition according to claims 1 or 2, wherein at least one of the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer of (a) is selected from polycitronellol acetate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, isododecane, isohexadecane, tetradecane, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, ethanol, phenoxyethanol, castor oil, or mixtures thereof.

4. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the one or more skin active agents are selected from ceramides, vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin D, vitamin E, niacinamide, caffeine, ferulic acid, salicylic acid, madecassoside, retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, or a combination thereof; and / or wherein the one or more skin active agents include at least one ceramide selected from ceramide EOP, ceramide AS, ceramide AP, ceramide NS, ceramide NP, ceramide NH, ceramide AH, ceramide EOH, ceramide EOS, ceramide AdS, ceramide NdS, ceramide EOdS, or mixtures thereof.

5. A cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the one or more skin active agents are a lipophilic skin active agent.

6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more biosurfactants are selected from glycolipids, wherein the biosurfactants are selected from sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, trehalose lipids, mannosylerythritol lipids, or mixtures thereof.

7. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one of the one or more surfactants is an anionic surfactant selected from acyl glutamates, acyl taurates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, or mixtures thereof, preferably wherein the anionic surfactants are an acyl taurate.

8. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion is a dispersion having a droplet size of about 10 nm to about 1 pm.

9. A cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim, comprising: (a) about 0.5 to about 10% by weight of a reaction product of a natural or food-derived oil selected from linseed oil, sunflower oil, tung oil, fish oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil or mixtures thereof, and a polymer formed from one or more monomers selected from methacrylate isobutyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate and n-butyl methacrylate or mixtures thereof; (b) about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the reaction product of (a); (c) one or more ceramides; (d) about 1 to about 10% by weight of a plurality of surfactants, wherein the plurality of surfactants comprises: (c)(i) about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of one or more rhamnolipids; and (c)(ii) about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of one or more additional surfactants selected from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and cationic surfactants; and (d) water; wherein the composition has an average droplet size of about 10 nm to about 2 pm, and all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the composition.

10. A method of treating the skin comprising applying the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the skin.

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