LINSEED OIL CONCENTRATED IN UNSAPONIFIABLES AND ITS APPLICATIONS

Abstract

The invention relates to a lipid extract of linseed oil Linum usitatissimum, concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction, its preparation process and a cosmetic, pharmaceutical or dermatological composition comprising a suitable excipient and said lipid extract. The invention also relates to such an extract or such a composition for its use in the prevention or treatment of disorders or pathologies of the skin, mucous membranes or appendages. The invention finally relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care process for dry skin, preferably with a feeling of tightness, comprising the topical or oral administration, preferably topical, of such an extract or such a composition.

Description

Title of the invention: LINSEED OIL CONCENTRATED IN UNSAPONIFIABLES AND ITS APPLICATIONS FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The invention relates to a lipid extract of linseed oil Linum usitatissimum, concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction, as well as a cosmetic, pharmaceutical or dermatological composition comprising a suitable excipient and said lipid extract.

[0002] The invention also relates to a process for preparing a lipid extract of linseed oil Linum usitatissimum, concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction, as well as the concentrate capable of being obtained by said process. The invention also relates to such a composition or such a concentrate (i.e. an oil concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction) for its use in the prevention or treatment of disorders or pathologies of the skin, mucous membranes or superficial body growths. The invention also relates to such an extract for its use in the prevention or treatment of disorders or pathologies of the skin, mucous membranes or superficial body growths. The invention finally relates to a process for cosmetic care of the skin, superficial body growths or mucous membranes, with a view to improving their condition or appearance, consisting of administering such a composition or such an extract, in particular in order to improve the physical / physiological and psychological well-being of the user.The invention also relates to such a composition for its use in improving the structure and appearance of the epidermis and dermis. STATE OF THE ART

[0003] Flax is a self-pollinating dicotyledon that belongs to the Linaceae family and the genus Linum. Worldwide, there are about 200 species of flax, most of which are wild. For thousands of years, the peoples of Central Asia, the Egyptians, the Greeks and the Gauls have encouraged the development of a species called usitatissimum. This cultivated flax (Linum usitatissimum LJ), very different from its ancestors, is an annual species. Flax varieties differ depending on whether they are intended for fiber or oil. In general, fiber varieties are taller (one meter) than those intended for harvesting seeds for oil extraction.

[0005] The seeds are smooth, flat, oblong, small and light (between 4 and 7 grams per thousand grains) and brown in color when ripe. They end in a slightly curved beak. Flax seed is rich in oil, which represents 35 to 50% of its mass. dry. Linolenic acid (omega 3) can represent 55 to 75% of the fatty acids that make up this oil.

[0006] In terms of properties, although omega-3 fatty acids have been associated with improved cardiovascular blood flow, human trial results are mixed regarding the effectiveness of flaxseed products for coronary artery disease or hyperlipidemia.

[0007] The therapeutic effect of linseed oil on acute and chronic arthritis in albino rats has been reported as well as anti-ulcer activity in animal models has been demonstrated. Antimicrobial activity has been reported in the case of bovine mastitis.

[0008] The Applicant has discovered that a brown linseed oil, Linum usitatissimum, concentrated in unsaponifiables, also called "concentrate", has cosmetic and dermatological properties never described until now. In particular, this is the first time that linseed oil concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction has been used as such, for its specific properties, such as a remarkable anti-aging effect, hair protection and in the prevention and / or treatment of disorders related to epidermal tissue. Summary of the invention

[0009] According to a first aspect, the invention relates to a lipid extract of linseed oil Linum usitatissimum, characterized in that said lipid extract is a linseed oil concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction, containing from 1.5% to 100%, advantageously 3.5% to 100% by weight of unsaponifiables, relative to the total weight of the extract.

[0010] According to a second aspect, the invention relates to a process for preparing an extract according to the invention, comprising the following successive steps: a. molecular distillation of a crude or refined oil from flax seeds Linum usitatissimum; b. where applicable, extraction of the unsaponifiable matter; c. recovery of the concentrated unsaponifiable oil obtained following step a) or of the unsaponifiable obtained following step b); d. optionally a step of deodorization and / or decolorization of the concentrated unsaponifiable oil or the unsaponifiable.

[0011] According to a third aspect, the invention relates to a composition comprising, as active ingredient, a lipid extract of linseed oil Linum usitatissimum according to the invention and a suitable excipient.

[0012] According to a fourth aspect, the invention relates to a composition or an extract according to the invention, for its use as, or in, a cosmetic composition, dermatological, pharmaceutical, nutraceutical or as a dietary supplement.

[0013] According to a fifth aspect, the invention relates to an extract or a composition according to the invention, for its use in preventing and / or treating disorders or pathologies of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or appendages, advantageously inflammatory reactions, disorders linked to intrinsic or extrinsic stress such as psychological stress, stress linked to a state of anxiety, stress linked to radical attacks linked or not to chemical or atmospheric pollution, and / or linked to exposure to UV or IR, disorders of the barrier or homeostasis, photosensitized skin, mechanical and / or thermal aggressions, or for its use as a healing agent.

[0014] According to a sixth aspect, the invention relates to an extract or a composition according to the invention, for its use in stimulating, restoring or regulating the metabolism of skin and mucous membrane cells and / or for its use in the prevention and / or treatment of disorders linked to epidermal and dermal tissue, advantageously chosen from atopic dermatitis, xerosis and psoriasis.

[0015] According to a seventh aspect, the invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method for healthy dry skin, preferably with a feeling of tightness, comprising the topical or oral administration, preferably topical, of an extract or a composition according to the invention.

[0016] According to an eighth aspect, the invention relates to a method for cosmetic care of healthy integuments, in particular hair, comprising the application to the healthy integuments of an extract or a composition according to the invention. DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES

[0017] [Fig.l]: Example of histology of reconstructed skin with young vs. old fibroblasts.

[0018] [Fig.2]: Illustrative images of histology in an aged reconstructed skin model (HPS staining: hematoxylin, phloxine, saffron)

[0019] [Fig.3]: Scoring irregularities. Significance D0 vs D28 and D0 vs D56: S = significant (p<0.05), Significance active vs placebo: solid line = significant (p<0.05).

[0020] [Fig.4]: Scoring of under-eye wrinkles. Significance D0 vs D28 and D0 vs D56: S = significant (p<0.05), LS = borderline significant (p<0.1) DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0021] The subject of the invention is a linseed oil Linum usitatissimum, concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction, called concentrate, said “concentrate” being a seed oil of Linum usitatissimum concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction, containing 1.5% to 100% by weight, advantageously 3.5% to 100% by weight, of unsaponifiables relative to the total weight of the extract.

[0022] Unsaponifiable matter is the fraction of a fatty substance which, after prolonged action of an alkaline base, remains insoluble in water and can be extracted by an organic solvent. Five major groups of substances are present in most unsaponifiable matter of vegetable oils: saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbons, aliphatic or terpenic alcohols, sterols, tocopherols, tocotrienols, carotenoid pigments and xanthophylls.

[0023] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “linseed oil” means an oil obtained from linseed.

[0024] Linum usitatissimum seed oil concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction contains the fatty acids of the original oil and the fatty acid distribution of the concentrated Linum usitatissimum oil is identical to that of the Linum usitatissimum oil before concentration. Similarly, the unsaponifiable compounds and their respective distribution are identical in the starting oil and the concentrated oil. On the other hand, the oil is concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction, in particular it comprises more than 1.5% or 2% by weight of unsaponifiables, relative to the total weight of the oil, advantageously more than 3.5% by weight of unsaponifiables.

[0025] Linum usitatissimum seed oil concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction advantageously comprises fatty acids having from 12 to 22, more advantageously from 16 to 20, carbon atoms. These fatty acids can be saturated, monounsaturated or polyunsaturated. The oil can be refined according to processes known to those skilled in the art such as physical refining (degumming with water, deacidification by deodorization by steam stripping) and chemical refining (degumming with water or acid treatment in order to remove phospholipids, neutralization of free fatty acids using a basic solution, decolorization, refrigeration and deodorization), in particular by deodorization by steam stripping.

[0026] An example of characteristics of brown linseed oil (Linum usitatissimum) is given in the following table.

[0027] [Tables 1] Fatty cut (% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil) C16 (palmitic acid) 4.0-10.0 Cl6' (palmitoleic acid) < i.o Cl8 (stearic acid) <6.0 Cl8' (oleic acid) 15-35% Cl8" (linoleic acid) 10-25% Cl8'" (a-linolenic acid) 40-65% C20 (arachidic acid) < i.o C20' (eicasenoic acid) < i.o C22 (behenic acid) < i.o Tocopherol content (g / 100 g) 0.010-0.050 Sterol content (g / 100 g) 0.3 - 0.7 Total unsaponifiable content (g / 100 g) 0.4-1.1

[0028] From this oil, the invention consists of a linseed oil Linum usitatissimum - concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction - also called the "concentrate". It advantageously comprises from 1.5 to 20% by weight of unsaponifiables, typically from 4 to 15%, for example from 4 to 11%, relative to the total weight of the oil. It advantageously has the following specifications.

[0029] [Tables2] Fatty fraction (% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil) C16 (palmitic acid) 4.0-10.0 Cl6' (palmitoleic acid) < i.0 Cl8 (stearic acid) <6.0 Cl8' (oleic acid) 15-35% Cl8" (linoleic acid) 10-25% Cl8"' (a-linolenic acid) 40-65% C20 (arachidic acid) < 1.0 C20' (eicasenoic acid) < 1.0 C22 (behenic acid) < 1.0 Tocopherol content (g / 100g) 0.10-0.50 Sterol content (g / 100g) 3-7 Total unsaponifiable content (g / 100g) 4-11

[0030] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the tocopherol content by weight is greater than 0.01% by weight, preferably greater than 0.05%, or even greater than 0.1% relative to the total weight of the extract. The γ-tocopherol content may be greater than 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of tocopherols, preferably greater than 80% by weight, preferably greater than 90 or 95% by weight. The tocopherol content may be between 0.01 and 2% by weight, preferably 0.05 and 1%, more preferably between 0.1 and 0.50% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract.

[0031] According to another preferred embodiment, the sterol content of the extract according to the invention is greater than 1.5% by weight, preferably greater than 2%, more preferably greater than 3%, relative to the total weight of the extract. The sterol content of the extract according to the invention may be between 0.5 and 15% by weight, preferably 1.5 and 10%, more preferably between 3 and 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract. Advantageously, the lipid extract comprises: - at least 10% by weight of campesterol relative to the total weight of sterols, - at least 15% by weight of beta-sitosterol relative to the total weight of sterols, and / or - at least 20% by weight of delta7-stigmasterol relative to the total weight of sterols.

[0032] Advantageously, the unsaponifiable fraction is as described below.

[0033] [Tables3] Tocopherol content g / 100g concentrate 0.1-0.50 Of which 90-100% y-tocopherol Total sterol content g / 100g oil 3.0-7.0% relative campesterol 10-20%% relative stigmasterol 3-8%% relative beta-sitosterol 18-35%% relative delta 5-avenasterol 2-10%% relative delta7-stigmasterol 20-40%

[0034] Relative %: relative to the total weight of sterols

[0035] The extract according to the invention is advantageously obtained by a process comprising the following successive steps: a. molecular distillation of a crude or refined linseed oil Linum usitatissimum; b. where applicable, extraction of the unsaponifiable matter; c. recovery of the concentrated unsaponifiable oil obtained following step a) or of the unsaponifiable obtained following step b); and d. optionally a step of deodorization and / or decolorization of the concentrated unsaponifiable oil or the unsaponifiable.

[0036] When it is desired to recover the oil enriched (concentrated) in unsaponifiable matter, step b) is not carried out. When it is desired to recover the unsaponifiable fraction, step b) is carried out.

[0037] This step b) advantageously comprises the following successive steps: i. saponification of concentrated linseed oil into its unsaponifiable fraction obtained following step a), ii. then extraction of the unsaponifiable matter using a suitable solvent, such as ethyl acetate and hexane.

[0038] The invention also relates to a process for preparing an extract according to the invention comprising the following successive steps: a. molecular distillation of a crude or refined linseed oil Linum usitatissimum; b. where applicable, extraction of the unsaponifiable matter; c. recovery of the concentrated unsaponifiable oil obtained following step a) or of the unsaponifiable obtained following step b); d. optionally a step of deodorization and / or decolorization of the concentrated unsaponifiable oil or the unsaponifiable.

[0039] The molecular distillation step a) is preferably carried out using a device chosen from centrifugal type molecular distillers and scraped film type molecular devices.

[0040] Centrifugal type molecular distillers are known to those skilled in the art. For example, application EP 493 144 describes a molecular distiller of this type. Generally, the product to be distilled is spread in a thin layer on the heated surface (hot surface) of a conical rotor rotating at high speed. The distillation enclosure is placed under vacuum. Under these conditions, there is evaporation and not boiling, from the hot surface, of the constituents of the oil such as the unsaponifiables, the advantage being that the oil and its constituents, in particular the unsaponifiables (these products being known to be fragile), are not degraded during evaporation.

[0041] Scraped film type molecular distillers are also known to those skilled in the art. Generally, they comprise a distillation chamber equipped with a rotating scraper, allowing the continuous spreading on the evaporation surface (hot surface) of the products to be distilled. The product vapors are condensed by means of a refrigerated finger, placed in the center of the distillation chamber. The peripheral feed and vacuum systems are very close to those of a centrifugal distiller (feed pumps, vane and oil diffusion vacuum pumps, etc.). The recovery of residues and distillates is done by gravitational flow in the appropriate containers.

[0042] At the end of the fractionation step, typically the molecular distillation step, the distilled fraction rich in unsaponifiables advantageously represents 3 to 15% by weight of the starting oil, and the distilled fraction rich in triglycerides advantageously represents 85 to 97% by weight of the starting oil.

[0043] It was further verified that this process did not cause any chemical modification or alteration of the unsaponifiable compounds, and that the highly unsaturated fractions were preserved. Consequently, the fatty acid distribution of concentrated linseed oil is identical to that of linseed oil before concentration.

[0044] Following this molecular distillation step, the product obtained may optionally be deodorized and / or decolorized by methods known to those skilled in the art, for example deodorized by steam stripping or molecular distillation, or decolorized by treatment on activated carbon.

[0045] The linseed oil concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction thus obtained has the characteristics described above.

[0046] When it is desired to recover the oil enriched with unsaponifiable matter, step b) is not carried out.

[0047] When it is desired to recover the unsaponifiable fraction, step b) is carried out. This step advantageously comprises the following successive steps: i. saponification of concentrated linseed oil into its unsaponifiable fraction obtained following step a), ii. then extraction of the unsaponifiable matter using a suitable solvent, such as ethyl acetate and hexane.

[0048] The unsaponifiable matter of linseed oil can be obtained by methods known to those skilled in the art. For example, it can be obtained by carrying out saponification on linseed oil concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction, then by extracting this unsaponifiable matter using a suitable solvent. Typically, the unsaponifiable matter is then washed until the soaps are completely removed and then the solvent is evaporated. Finally, the unsaponifiable matter advantageously undergoes deodorization with water vapor and then stripping with nitrogen in order to remove traces of solvent.

[0049] The unsaponifiable linseed oil thus obtained advantageously has the characteristics described above.

[0050] In the remainder of the description, the term “extract according to the invention” will be used to designate the extract as such, as defined above, or the extract capable of being obtained by the process according to the invention as described above.

[0051] The invention also relates to a composition comprising, as active ingredient, a lipid extract of linseed oil according to the invention and a suitable excipient.

[0052] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises from 0.01% to 20%, advantageously from 0.05 to 15%, more advantageously 0.1 to 10%, by weight of said lipid extract, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] The lipid extract according to the invention is advantageously used as an active agent in a composition such as a cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical composition, which may comprise one or more suitable excipients.

[0054] The composition according to the invention can be formulated in the form of different preparations suitable for topical, oral or vaginal administration, preferably topical.

[0055] According to a first variant, the different preparations are suitable for topical administration and include in particular creams, emulsions, milks, ointments, lotions, oils, aqueous or hydro-alcoholic or glycolic solutions, powders, patches, sprays, shampoos, varnishes or any other product for external application.

[0056] The composition comprising a linseed oil concentrate having the indicated specifications is particularly intended for cosmetic, pharmaceutical and dermatological use.

[0057] In the context of cosmetic, pharmaceutical or dermatological use, the composition will advantageously be formulated in the form of a preparation suitable for topical administration.

[0058] In the context of nutraceutical use, the composition is advantageously formulated in the form of a preparation suitable for oral administration. The extract according to the invention can be included either in a food supplement or in a nutraceutical composition. The food supplement can be in the form of the extract according to the invention as such or in the form of gelatin or vegetable capsules or soft capsules. Said food supplement can then contain from 10 to 100% by weight of the extract according to the invention.

[0059] The composition of the present invention can be incorporated directly and without further modification into nutraceuticals, dietary products, particularly high-protein products, or beverages, using techniques such as mixing, infusion, injection, blending, absorption, kneading, and spraying.

[0060] The composition according to the invention may also contain the usual adjuvants in the pharmaceutical, dermatological, cosmetic or nutraceutical fields, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, thickeners, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, chelating agents, odor absorbers, chemical or mineral filters, mineral pigments, surfactants, polymers, silicone oils and coloring matters. The quantities of these different adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields considered, for example from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, may be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase, into the lipid vesicles and / or into the nanoparticles. A person skilled in the art is able to choose the appropriate adjuvants depending on the intended application.

[0061] As oils which can be used in the compositions for implementing the invention, mention may be made of mineral oils, oils of vegetable origin (apricot oil, sunflower oil, plum oil), oils of animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and fluorinated oils (perfluoropolyethers). Fatty alcohols (cetyl alcohol), fatty acids and waxes (beeswax) may also be used as fatty substances.

[0062] As emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers which can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, fatty acid and polyol esters such as glyceryl stearate and sorbitan tristearate.

[0063] As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made in particular of carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomer), acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides, natural gums and clays, and, as lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids, hydrophobic silica and polyethylenes.

[0064] The optimal administration methods, dosages and galenic forms of the compositions according to the invention can be determined according to the criteria generally taken into account in establishing a pharmaceutical, dermatological or cosmetic treatment adapted to a patient, such as, for example, the extent of the skin area to be treated, tolerance to the treatment, and skin type.

[0065] The invention also relates to an extract according to the invention or a composition according to the invention for its use as, or in, a cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical, nutraceutical composition or as a food supplement.

[0066] The extract according to the invention, and in particular a concentrate of linseed oil concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction, makes it possible to: - Protect the epidermis from oxidative damage; - Restore the lipid compounds of the barrier and more particularly ceramides in a context of dry skin; - Protect the skin against the effects of aging (telomere protection) and restore dermal compounds (typically collagen I); - Protect hair from damage caused by various stresses such as bleaching or heat.

[0067] The composition or extract according to the present invention can be used in the prevention and / or treatment of disorders or pathologies of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or appendages, advantageously inflammatory reactions, disorders linked to intrinsic or extrinsic stress such as psychological stress, stress linked to a state of anxiety, stress linked to radical attacks linked or not to chemical or atmospheric pollution, and / or linked to exposure to UV or IR, disorders of the barrier or homeostasis, photosensitized skin, mechanical and / or thermal aggressions, or for its use as a healing agent. In particular, the composition or extract according to the invention is used to stimulate, restore or regulate the metabolism of skin and mucous membrane cells and / or in the prevention and / or treatment of disorders linked to epidermal and dermal tissue and to protect hair fibers from various stresses.

[0068] The extract or composition according to the invention can be used: - As an anti-aging agent, - to prevent an alteration of and / or maintain the homeostasis of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or appendages, - as an antioxidant and / or anti-inflammatory agent.

[0069] In particular, the extract or composition according to the invention can be used as a protector and repairer of the skin barrier and / or as a protector of hair fibers. The composition or extract according to the invention can also be used to prevent or delay the phenomena of skin dryness, signs of aging and damage to hair fibers. The extract or composition according to the invention can be used to prevent or delay premature skin aging, in particular photo-induced, advantageously to prevent, reduce and / or treat wrinkles, fine lines or an alteration of the microrelief.

[0070] Preferably, the extract or composition according to the invention is used in the prevention and / or treatment of pathologies or conditions chosen from the group consisting of superficial scars, fragile lips and cheilitis, and fragile, delipidated and sensitive skin. It is also used to stimulate, restore or regulate the metabolism of skin and mucous membrane cells and / or for its use in the prevention and / or treatment of disorders related to epidermal and dermal tissue, preferably related to epidermal tissue. Indeed, the extract according to the invention has a particularly pronounced activity on the epidermis. These disorders are advantageously chosen from atopic dermatitis, xerosis and psoriasis.

[0071] Advantageously, the invention also relates to an extract or a composition according to the invention for preventing and / or treating dry skin, xerosis, sensitive skin, irritations, fragile lips, cheilitis, atopic dermatitis, eczema and psoriasis. These disorders may be skin disorders linked to intrinsic or extrinsic stress such as psychological stress.

[0072] The invention also relates to the use of an extract according to the invention or of a composition according to the invention for the manufacture of a cosmetic, pharmaceutical or dermatological composition for preventing and / or treating disorders or pathologies cited above. The invention further relates to a method for preventing and / or treating disorders or pathologies of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or appendages, comprising the administration, in particular the topical administration, of an effective amount of an extract according to the invention or of a composition according to the invention, to a subject in need thereof. Preferably, the disorders or pathologies of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or appendages are as defined above.

[0073] The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of dry, damaged and / or mature skin, comprising the administration, orally or topically, of an extract or a composition according to the invention.

[0074] Another aspect of the invention relates to an extract or a composition according to the invention, for its use in strengthening the mechanical properties of the skin and mucous membranes, in particular in combating withered, soft, distended, sagging and / or thinned skin, and / or strengthening and / or restoring the elasticity or firmness of the skin.

[0075] The invention also relates to a method for cosmetic care of the skin and / or the appendages and / or the mucous membranes with a view to improving their condition and / or their appearance, advantageously with a view to improving the firmness, elasticity or tone of the skin comprising the topical or oral administration, preferably topical, of an extract or a composition according to the invention.

[0076] The invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method for dry skin, preferably with a feeling of tightness, comprising the topical or oral administration, preferably topical, of an extract or a composition according to the invention.

[0077] It also relates to a cosmetic care method for the hair appendages, in particular the hair, comprising the application to the hair appendages of an extract or a composition according to the invention. The extract or the composition according to the invention are particularly effective in providing a “sheathing” effect to the hair, that is to say forming a protective film of the hair sheath. Thus, they make it possible to protect colored or non-colored hair from exposure to the sun or exposure to sea water. The cosmetic care method according to the invention also makes it possible to repair damaged hair appendages, preferably following exposure to the sun or to sea water.

[0078] The cosmetic uses and cosmetic care methods according to the present invention are typically carried out on healthy skin or healthy parts of the body and are not therapeutic. EXAMPLES Example 1#: Concentrate according to the invention

[0079] An example of a concentrate according to the invention is a refined oil of Linum usitatissimum concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction. The extract is prepared by molecular distillation (vacuum condition: 102 to 103 mbar; temperature of the distillation body between 250 and 280 °C).

[0080] This extract shows the following mass distribution:

[0081] [Tables5] Fatty cut (% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil) C16 (palmitic acid) 7.0% Cl6' (palmitoleic acid) 0.2% Cl8 (stearic acid) 4.4% Cl8' (oleic acid) 21.0% Cl8” (linoleic acid) 15.0% Cl8'” (a-linolenic acid) 51.5% C20 (arachidic acid) 0.1% C20' (eicasenoic acid) 0.1% C22 (behenic acid) 0.1% Tocopherol content (g / 100g) 0.35 Sterol content (g / 100g) 3.6 Total unsaponifiable content (g / 100g) 4.9

[0082] Tocopherols have the following mass distribution:

[0083] [Tableauxô] % a-tocopherol 2.6% [3-tocopherol 0% δ-tocopherol 1.1% y-tocopherol 96.4

[0084] Sterols have the following mass distribution:

[0085] [Tables?] Total Sterols Content g / 100g of oil 3.6% relative campesterol 14.6% relative stigmasterol 6.8% relative beta-sitosterol 27.7% % relative delta 5-avenaster ol 5.6% % relative delta7-stigmaster ol 36.8% Total unsaponifiable g / 100g of oil 4.9

[0086] Example 2: In vitro biological activity tests of the extract according to the invention

[0087] The extract tested is the concentrate of example 1. It will be named in the studies “ linseed oil concentrate”. Unless otherwise indicated, the percentages are expressed by weight of concentrate relative to the total weight of the tested composition. A - Induction of ceramides Materials and methods

[0088] The study was carried out on a Perfex vivo human skin explant model, developed by the company BIO-EC. This model has the particularity of cultivating the explants in the open air and not in an incubator, making it possible to mimic the real exchanges of the skin with the air.

[0089] The explants were treated topically with a formulation (cream) containing 1% of linseed oil concentrate from Example 1 or its placebo on D0, D2, D3 and D5. Immunolabeling of ceramides was performed on D6. The percentage of labeled surface in the stratum corneum was determined by image analysis. The results were statistically analyzed by one-way analysis of variance (ANOVA), followed by a Dunnett test.

[0090] b. Results

[0091] The results of the immunostaining are presented in the table below.

[0092] [Tables8] % surface area ceramide marking in stratum corneum Variation towards untreated control (%) Variation towards placebo (%) Untreated control 25.2 + 6.6 Placebo 18.1 + 6.8 -28% ns Concentrate lin 1% 40.4+ 10.6 +60% p<0.01 +123% p<0.0 01

[0093] 1% flaxseed oil concentrate significantly increased ceramide labeling by 60% (see table). Placebo tended to inhibit this immunolabeling. B - Antioxidant activity Materials and methods

[0094] Normal human epidermal keratinocytes were incubated for 1 h with the 2,7-DCDHF-DA probe. Then they were treated or not with linseed oil concentrate or linseed oil at 0.033% and 0.1% or the antioxidant reference molecule Vitamin E at 100pM. DMSO was used as a solubilization solvent for the active ingredient. The cells were treated in parallel with a hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) solution at 100pM for 20 minutes.

[0095] The production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) was evaluated by measuring the fluorescence emitted by the probe in contact with the ROS.

[0096] A DMSO control, solubilization solvent of linseed oil concentrate and linseed oil, was carried out in parallel. The results were statistically analyzed by a one-way analysis of variance (ANOVA), followed by a Tukey test.

[0097] b. Results

[0098] Linseed oil concentrate significantly inhibited ROS release at 0.033% and 0.1% (-38%*** and -58%*** respectively). Linseed oil, at the same concentrations, showed no effect (see tables below).

[0099] [Tables9] Quantification of R OS Fluorescence intensity (DFU) Variation versus untreated control (%) Variation versus DMSO control (%) Untreated control 1250 + 107 H2O2 lOOpM 7856 + 53 +528 % $$$ Reference (Vitamin E lOOpM) 3158+89 -60% *** DMSO control 6467 + 535 -18% ns Lin concentrate 0.033% 3984+ 81 -49% *** -38% *** Lin concentrate 0.1% 2712+ 110 -65% *** -58% ***

[0100] $$$p<0.001 vs Untreated Control; *** p<0.001; **p<0.01 vs H2O2 or control DMSO

[0101] [TableauxlO] Quantification of R OS Variation versus untreated or H2O2 control (%) Variation versus DMSO control (%) Fluorescence intensity (DFU) Untreated control 1156 + 30 H2O2 lOOpM 5724 + 298 +395 % $$$ Reference (Vitamin E lOOpM) 2988 +174 -48% *** DMSO control 4634+ ​​189 -19% ** LINSEED OIL 0.033% 5169+ 218 -10% ns +11.5% ns LINSEED OIL 0.1% 4286+ 294 -25% *** -7.5% ns

[0102] $$$p<0.001 vs Untreated Control; *** p<0.001; **p<0.01 vs H2O2 or control DMSO C - Telomere protection Materials and methods

[0103] Normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHF) were pre-treated for 3 days with 0.001% linseed oil concentrate or the positive reference Astragaloside IV at 30pM. Cell senescence was induced by H2O2 stress at 10pM on D3 and D4. The cells were treated with the active ingredient in parallel with H2O2 stress. Telomere length was analyzed on D5 by the in situ hybridization technique (FISH = fluorescent in situ hybridization).

[0104] The results were statistically analyzed by Student's t-test.

[0105] b. Results

[0106] Flaxseed oil concentrate significantly increased telomere length decreased by H2O2 stress. The active ingredient protected telomeres from H2O2 stress inducing premature senescence of fibroblasts. By protecting telomeres, flaxseed oil concentrate limits the process of cellular senescence and promotes cellular longevity, thus delaying skin aging.

[0107] [Tableauxll] Telomere length Total intensity / area of ​​nuclei Variation versus untreated control or H2O2 (%) Untreated control 77565 + 9211 H2O2 lOpM 47179 + 1912 -39% $ vs untreated control Reference 90593 + 7112 +92% ** vs H2O2 (Astragaloside IV 30pM) Flax concentrate 0.001% 103869+ 19143 +120% *

[0108] $ p<0.05 vs Untreated Control; * p<0.05; **p<0.01 vs H 2O 2 D - Induction of collagen I Materials and methods

[0109] Normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHF) were treated for 72 hours with 0.001% and 0.005% linseed oil concentrate. DMSO was used as the solubilizing solvent for the active ingredient. The amount of "total" collagen I (intercellular and matrix compartment) was analyzed by immunofluorescent labeling.

[0110] b. Results

[0111] Flaxseed oil concentrate significantly increased collagen I production by +27% (p<0.05 vs DMSO control - one-way ANOVA followed by Dunnett's test).

[0112] E - Gene expression screening in an aged skin explant model Material and method

[0113] Skin explants from a 54-year-old donor were treated for 48 hours (with treatment repeated at 24 hours) with the following products: - By the placebo topically (5mg / cm2) and in parallel systemically by the solubilization solvent (EtOH 0.075% / DMSO 0.025%), - By linseed oil concentrate formulated at 1% topically (5mg / cm2) and in parallel systemically by linseed oil concentrate at 0.01%.

[0114] Gene expression level analysis was performed by RT-qPCR. The results were statistically analyzed by Student's t-test.

[0115] b. Results

[0116] Flaxseed oil concentrate significantly increased the expression of a number of genes involved in epidermal structure and the dermo-epidermal junction. It also significantly increased the gene expression level of genes involved in telomere protection and longevity as well as several extracellular matrix genes (see table below).

[0117] This screening reveals a pro-epidermal effect and reinforcement of the dermo-epidermal junction.

[0118] [Tablesl2] Function Abbreviation Full name % induction (vs placebo) Dermo-epidermal junction COL17A1 Collagen type XVII alpha 1 +70%** LAMC2 Laminin gamma 2 +113%*** ITGAV Integrin alpha V +178%** ITGB6 Integrin beta 6 +151%*** NID1 Nidogen 1 +143%* COL7A1 Collagen type VII alpha 1 chain +28%* Lipid synthesis SPTLC1 Serine palmitoyltransferase long chain subunit 1 +38%** UGCG UDP-glucose ceramide glucosyltransferase +55%* ABCA12 ATP-binding cassette, sub-family A member 12 +64%* Cell interactions CD44 CD44 molecule +47%** CTNNA1 Catenin (cadherin-associated protein) alpha 1 +46%* DSP Desmoplakin +57%** EPPK1 Epiplakin 1 +105%*** SDC1 Syndecan 1 +37%** Proliferation MKI67 Proliferation marker Ki67 +43%* Telomere protection POT1 Protection of telomeres 1 +39%* CTC1 CTS telomere maintenance complex component 1 +44%* Longevity SIRT1 Sirtuin 1 +79%** FOXO3 Forkhead bo 03 +48%* Extracellular matrix HAS2 Hyaluronan synthase 2 +58%* DCN Decorin +37%* FBN1 Fibrillin 1 +185%**

[0119] * p<0.05; **p<0.01; ***p<0.001

[0120] F - Pro-epidermal activity and strengthening of the dermo-epidermal junction

[0121] Efficacy in an aged reconstructed skin model

[0122] This innovative model makes it possible to mimic the aging of the epidermis. It is a chimeric reconstructed skin model made from fibroblasts from an elderly donor and keratinocytes from a young donor. The cultured keratinocytes on an aged dermis will reconstruct an epidermis presenting alterations similar to chronological aging, such as a thinner epidermis, a disorganized dermo-epidermal junction and basal lamina (cf. [Fig.l]).

[0123] A. Materials and methods

[0124] The skin reconstruction was carried out over 42 days in several stages. A first stage of formation of an equivalent dermis was carried out with fibroblasts (57-year-old donor) and a matrix consisting of collagen, glycosaminoglycans and chitosan. The fibroblasts were treated every 2 days for a total of 5 treatments (from D10 to D20) with 0.01% linseed oil concentrate or the solubilization solvent (DMSO / Ethanol). The keratinocytes (28-year-old donor) were then seeded onto this aged equivalent dermis. The skins were placed in an air-liquid interface on D28 so that the keratinocytes could differentiate and form an epidermis. The epidermis were treated topically from D33 every other day for a total of 4 treatments (D33 to D39) with linseed oil concentrate formulated at 1% in the placebo or placebo. A positive retinol reference at 0.1 pM was carried out in parallel.

[0125] After 42 days of culture, the reconstructed skins were recovered and a histological analysis was carried out as well as immunostaining of markers of interest. The results were statistically analyzed by Student's t test.

[0126] b. Results Histological analysis

[0127] Histological analysis showed that linseed oil concentrate increased the thickness of the epidermis and improved its quality (see [Fig.2]).

[0128] The linseed oil concentrate according to the invention has: - increased the thickness of the epidermis: the number of living layers is greater, - improved the basal layer: the number of cells is greater and the cells are better aligned and organized, - improved terminal differentiation. Cytokeratin 10 analysis

[0129] Linseed oil concentrate significantly increased cytokeratin 10 labeling, reflecting improved differentiation and structure of the epidermis.

[0130] [Tables 13] Cytokeratin 10 immunostaining (%) Intensity of staining / area of ​​the epidermis Variation versus untreated control (%) Variation versus Placebo (%) Untreated control 48.20+ 1.75 Reference (Retinol 0.1 pM) 72.08 + 0.81 +50% *** Placebo 59.81 + 1.25 +24% *** Flaxseed concentrate 1% 70.85+ 1.77 +47% *** +18.5% ***

[0131] ***p<0.001 vs Untreated Control or Placebo Collagen XVII Analysis

[0132] Linseed oil concentrate significantly increased collagen XVII labeling, reflecting an improvement and strengthening of the dermo-epidermal junction (DEJ) (see Table below).

[0133] [Tablesl4] Collagen XVII immunostaining (%) Staining intensity / length JDE Variation versus untreated control (%) Variation versus Placebo (%) Untreated control 25.31 + 0.68 Reference (Retinol 0.1 pM) 30.10 + 0.71 + 19% *** Placebo 30.45 + 0.52 +20% *** Flaxseed concentrate 1% 35.17 + 0.97 +39% *** +15.5% ***

[0134] ***p<0.001 vs Untreated Control or Placebo Alpha 6 integrin analysis

[0135] Linseed oil concentrate significantly increased alpha 6 integrin labeling, reflecting an improvement and strengthening of the dermo-epidermal junction (DEJ) (see Table below).

[0136] [Tables 15] Alpha 6 integrin immunostaining (%) Labeling intensity / length of JDE Variation versus untreated control (%) Variation versus Placebo (%) Untreated control 21.35 + 0.62 Reference (Retinol 0.1 pM) 19.98 + 0.84 -6% ns Placebo 20.06 + 0.86 -6% ns Flax concentrate 1% 29.5+ 0.91 +38% *** +47% ***

[0137] ***p<0.001 vs Untreated Control or Placebo Analysis of laminin 332

[0138] Linseed oil concentrate significantly increased laminin 332 labeling, reflecting an improvement and strengthening of the dermoepidermal junction (DEJ) (see Table below).

[0139] [Tables 16] Immunostaining la minin 332 (%) Intensity of staining / length of JDE Variation versus untreated control (%) Variation versus Placebo (%) Untreated control 3.72 + 0.21 Reference (Retinol 0.1 pM) 2.54 + 0.06 -32% *** Placebo 7.65 + 0.45 +105% *** Flaxseed concentrate 1% 10.53+ 0.43 +183% *** +38% ***

[0140] ***p<0.001 vs Untreated Control or Placebo Fibrillin 1 analysis

[0141] Linseed oil concentrate significantly increased the labeling of fibrillin I (see Table below). Fibrillin I allows the anchoring of the different constituents of the extracellular matrix. This result therefore reflects an improvement and strengthening of the dermo-epidermal junction.

[0142] [Tablesl7] Fibrillin 1 immunostaining (%) Intensity of staining / dermal area Variation versus untreated control (%) Variation versus Placebo (%) Untreated control 35.45 + 1.68 Reference (Retinol 0.1 pM) 40.75 + 0.66 + 15% * Placebo 38.46 + 1.01 +8.5% ns Flax concentrate 1% 45.64 + 1.06 +29% *** +19% ***

[0143] *p<0.05; ***p<0.001 vs. Untreated Control or Placebo

[0144] In this aged epidermis model, the linseed oil concentrate according to the invention successfully countered the effect of aging. Indeed, it showed efficacy on the dermo-epidermal junction. It also promoted the proliferation and organization of cells in the basal layer, thus promoting a thicker and better structured epidermis. It increased key markers of epidermal stem cells such as collagen XVII and alpha-6 integrin. G - Skin explant model vs UV Material and method

[0145] Skin explants were pre-treated for 48 hours topically with linseed oil concentrate formulated at 1% and in parallel in the culture medium with linseed oil concentrate at 0.01% solubilized in an ethanol / DMSO mixture. A placebo condition was carried out (topical treatment with the placebo and treatment in the culture medium with the ethanol / DMSO mixture). A positive control corresponding to the topical application of a 1% Trolox solution was also carried out. After 48 hours of treatment, the explants were stressed by UV-A irradiation (6J / cm2). Labeling of carbonylated proteins was carried out 2 hours after UV-A irradiation. Histological analysis as well as immunolabeling of markers of interest were carried out 24 hours after UV-A stress.

[0146] b. Results Thickness of the stratum corneum

[0147] The thickness of the stratum corneum was not impacted by UV-A stress in the explants treated with linseed oil concentrate. The active ingredient protected the morphology of the epidermis, altered by UV-A (see Table below).

[0148] [Tablesl8] Thickness of the stratum corneum (pm) Variation versus untreated or UVA control (%) Variation versus Placebo (%) Untreated control 19.08 + 0.99 UVA stress (6J / cm2) 10.05 + 0.46 -47% $$$ Reference (Trolox 1%) 14.41 + 1.00 +43% ** Placebo 14.10 + 1.13 +40% ** Flax concentrate 1% 22.97+ 1.02 +128% *** +63% ***

[0149] $$$p<0.001 vs Untreated Control; **p<0.01; ***p<0.001 vs UVA or Placebo - One-way ANOVA followed by Tukey's test Analysis of carbonylated proteins

[0150] Linseed oil concentrate decreased the amount of carbonylated proteins induced by UV-A. The active ingredient protected the epidermis from UV-A-induced oxidative damage (see Tables below).

[0151] Whole skin analysis:

[0152] [Tablesl9] Quantification of carbonylated proteins (intensity / surface) Variation versus untreated or UVA control (%) Variation versus Placebo (%) Untreated control 494.12 + 3.90 UVA stress (6J / cm2) 803.33 + 30.25 +63% $$$ Reference (Trolox 1%) 567.50 + 19.60 -29% *** Placebo 600.14 + 97.38 -25% *** Flax concentrate 1% 482.49+ 59.53 -40% *** -20% ns

[0153] $$p<0.01 ; $$$p<0.001 vs Untreated Control ; *** p<0.001 vs UVA ; *p<0.05 vs Placebo - One-way ANOVA followed by Dunnett's test

[0154] Analysis on epidermis:

[0155] [Tables20] Quantification of carbonylated proteins (intensity / surface) Variation versus untreated or UVA control (%) Variation versus Placebo (%) Untreated control 629.43 + 33.91 UVA stress (6J / cm2) 905.24 + 19.42 +44% $$ Reference (Trolox 1%) 898.95 + 83.98 0% ns Placebo 762.59 + 87.48 -16% ns Flax concentrate 1% 570.63+ 114.30 -37% *** -25% *

[0156] $$p<0.01 ; $$$p<0.001 vs Untreated Control ; *** p<0.001 vs UVA ; *p<0.05 vs Placebo - One-way ANOVA followed by Dunnett's test Filaggrin analysis

[0157] The linseed oil concentrate helped preserve the amount of filaggrin, altered by UV-A stress. The active ingredient protected the epidermis from oxidative damage induced by UV-A (A (see Table below).

[0158] [Tables21] Fila aggrin immunolabeling (intensity / surface) Variation versus untreated or UVA control (%) Variation versus Placebo (%) Untreated control 863.63 + 22.09 UVA stress (6J / cm2) 606.03 + 28.64 -30% $$$ Reference (Trolox 1%) 589.30 + 56.31 -3% ns Placebo 636.74 + 75.26 +5% ns Flax concentrate 1% 874.52+ 58.18 +44% *** +37% **

[0159] $$$p<0.001 vs Untreated Control; *** p<0.001 vs UVA; **p<0.01 vs Placebo - One-way ANOVA followed by Tukey's test Analysis of laminin 332

[0160] The linseed oil concentrate made it possible to preserve the quantity of laminin 332, altered by UV-A stress (see Table below).

[0161] [Tables22] Immunostaining la minin 332 (intensity / area) Variation versus untreated or UVA control (%) Variation versus Placebo (%) Untreated control 736.61 + 31.70 UVA stress (6J / cm2) 341.69 + 22.20 -54% $$$ Reference (Trolox 1%) 646.55 + 35.08 +89% *** Placebo 361.75 + 50.79 +6% ns Flax concentrate 1% 520.06+ 23.55 +52% *** +44% **

[0162] $$$p<0.001 vs Untreated Control; *** p<0.001 vs UVA; **p<0.01 vs Placebo - One-way ANOVA followed by Tukey's test Analysis of cytokeratin 14

[0163] The linseed oil concentrate made it possible to preserve the quantity of cytokeratin 14, altered by UVA stress (see Table below).

[0164] [Tables23] Cytokeratin 14 immunostaining (intensity / area) Variation versus untreated or UVA control (%) Variation versus Placebo (%) Untreated control 782.33 + 51.96 UVA stress (6J / cm2) 416.42 + 38.40 -47% $$$ Reference (Trolox 1%) 608.40 + 88.25 +46% * Placebo 614.24 + 19.78 + 48% ** Flax concentrate 1% 792.48 + 50.81 + 90% *** + 29% *

[0165] $$$p<0.001 vs Untreated Control; ***p<0.001; **p<0.01; *p<0.05 vs UVA or Placebo - One-way ANOVA followed by Tukey's test Fibrillin 1 analysis

[0166] The linseed oil concentrate made it possible to preserve the quantity of fibrillin 1 altered by UV-A stress (see Table below).

[0167] [Tableaux24] Fibrillin 1 immunostaining (intensity / surface) Variation versus untreated or UVA control (%) Variation versus Placebo (%) Untreated control 252.09 + 25.84 UVA stress (6J / cm2) 135.10 + 7.29 -46% $$$ Reference (Trolox 1%) 267.80+ 17.41 +98% *** Placebo 156.17 + 11.09 +16% ns Flax concentrate 1% 186.78+ 9.92 +38% * +20% *

[0168] $$$p<0.001 vs Untreated Control; ***p<0.001; *p<0.05 vs UVA - One-way ANOVA factor followed by Tukey test *p<0.05 vs Placebo (Student T test) Analysis of hyaluronic acid

[0169] Linseed oil concentrate increased hyaluronic acid labeling (see Table below).

[0170] [Tables25] Hyaluronic acid immunolabeling (intensity / surface) Variation versus untreated or UVA control (%) Variation versus Placebo (%) Untreated control 925.85 + 23.26 UVA stress (6J / cm2) 485.83 + 23.65 -48% $$$ Reference 820.98 + 66.30 +69% *** (Trolox 1%) Placebo 622.15 + 51.85 +28% * Flax concentrate 1% 874.52+ 50.40 +80% *** +41% ***

[0171] $$$p<0.001 vs Untreated Control; *** p<0.001; *p<0.05 vs UVA or Placebo - One-way ANOVA followed by Tukey's test

[0172] In this model mimicking aging that can be similar to chronological aging, the linseed oil concentrate demonstrated protective activity against aging induced by UV-A stress. Indeed, it showed a protective effect on the thickness of the stratum corneum as well as a protective effect on a certain number of markers (filaggrin, cytokeratin 14, laminin 332, hyaluronic acid and fibrillin 1) altered by UV-A stress. H - Conclusion

[0173] The linseed oil concentrate according to the invention has numerous biological activities: - Antioxidant activity: • Decrease in reactive oxygen species and carbonyl proteins. - Action on the epidermis: • Improvement of the horny layer (barrier effect): induction of ceramides, protection of the thickness of the stratum corneum, protection of filaggrin. • Improvement of living layers (epidermis differentiation): induction of cytokeratin 10, cytokeratin 14, reduction of carbonylated proteins, induction of markers of cell cohesion and the lipid synthesis pathway, increase in proliferation and organization of keratinocytes of the basal lamina. - Action on the dermo-epidermal junction: • Induction of markers Collagen XVII, integrin alpha-6, laminin V. - Dermal action: • Induction of hyaluronic acid and fibrillin-1 markers. - Protection of telomeres

[0174] Through these different activities, it is demonstrated that the linseed oil concentrate according to the invention prevents skin aging, particularly at the epidermal level, by strengthening the dermo-epidermal junction, by strengthening the densification of the epidermis and its longevity, by strengthening the skin barrier, through its lipid-replenishing action. and maintaining hydration. The active ingredient promotes the renewal and regeneration of the epidermis.

[0175] Example 3: Objective evaluation of the protective / coating efficacy of the concentrate according to the invention compared to a control condition on damaged locks of hair.

[0176] The objective of this study was to objectively evaluate the protective / sheathing efficacy of an active ingredient compared to a control condition on damaged hair strands by measuring the permeability of the hair sheath after a single standardized application. Tested formula

[0177] The formulas of the cream containing the active ingredient and the placebo cream are presented in the table below.

[0178] [Tables26] Name Material % Active Material Placebo Deionized water 97.5456 98.5456 Sclerotium gum 0.1500 0.1500 Octanediol 0.3000 0.3000 Hydrolite-6 1.0000 1.0000 Linseed oil concentrate according to the invention 1.0000 Citric acid 0.0044 0.0044 Total 100.0000 100.0000 b. Methodology and protocol

[0179] Principle of fluorescence permeability measurement

[0180] In this study, Rhodamine B dye was used. It forms a fluorescent complex in the hair fiber which is detected when exposed to a fluorescence microscope coupled with compatible filters of emitted wavelength.

[0181] When a product with a protective / coating effect is applied to the hair, there is a bond between the active ingredients and the damaged sites of the hair and, thus, the number of sites available for binding with the dye marker is reduced. Therefore, the intensity of the fluorescence is lower. Wicks used

[0182] Fifteen braids of Afro hair, type 3C, were prepared, weighing 5.0 g each and measuring 25 cm in length. All strands underwent a pre-treatment process standard cleaning with a 10% sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) solution for 1 minute, then rinsed under running water. The strands were dried in a standardized environment at 55 ± 5% relative humidity and 22 ± 2 °C, for 24 hours before testing.

[0183] 5 groups of 3 wicks were formed: • 3 strands were taken to form the “virgin” group. • 6 wicks (3 wicks code TOI and 3 wicks code T02) were taken and have undergone a discoloration process. • 6 wicks (3 wicks code T03 and 3 wicks code T04) were taken and underwent a process simulating a year of hair damage.

[0184] The “bleaching” process of the TOI and T02 strands and the process simulating “one year of accumulated hair damage” of the T03 and T04 strands are described below. After the hair damage procedure, the hair was subjected to treatment with the active and placebo products, as illustrated in the table below.

[0185] [Tables27] Strand Code Number Damage Treatment “Virgin” strands N=3 None None TOI strands N=3 Bleaching Active (9058.05.05) T02 strands N=3 Placebo (9058.04.02) T03 strands N=3 1 year of damage Active (9058.05.05) T04 strands N=3 Placebo (9058.04.02)

[0186] The method of application of the active ingredient and placebo used is as follows: Wet the hair for 20 seconds and remove excess water. Apply 0.5 mL of product and rub into the hair for 30 minutes. Do not rinse.

[0187] After application of the products, the braids were dried for 24 hours in a controlled environment at 55 ± 5% relative humidity and 22 ± 2 °C. Damage to the wicks

[0188] Bleaching process a. In a non-metallic bowl, add the bleaching powder (Biocolor® Descolorante Râpido - Niasi®) and the 20 volume hydrogen peroxide (Biocolor® Agua Oxigenada Cremosa - Niasi™), in a ratio of 1:3. b. After 2 minutes of mixing, apply 10 g of the mixture to each strand. c. Rub each strand for 5 minutes, then let it rest for 30 minutes at 36°C in the oven. d. Rinse each strand for 5 minutes and remove excess water. e. Apply 2.0 g of shampoo and rub for 10 seconds. Rinse hair for 30 seconds and remove excess water, then dry hair for 10 minutes using a hair dryer.

[0189] One-year accumulated damage simulation process a. Comb the strands manually 5 times to untangle them, then place them in the automated comber. b. Set the machine temperature to 27°C and the rotation speed to 25 rpm. c. The strands are combed 3000 times at 27°C. d. The strands are swept 20 times with the thermal straightener. Each Sweeping is performed vertically, downwards, for 10 seconds each. The Taiff Expert Premium 175W thermal straightener is used at approximately 180°C. e. The above sequence is considered one cycle. The same procedure is repeated 4 more times, totaling 5 cycles (15,000 successive combings and 100 passes of the straightener). f. The braids are then bleached following the procedure described above.

[0190] c. Results

[0191] The fluorescence results after a single damage and a simulation of one year of cumulative damage are presented in the table below. The results show that after a single damage, the quantified fluorescence is significantly lower for the active ingredient compared to the placebo, reflecting a protective effect of the concentrate according to the invention. The same observation can be made for the simulation of one year of damage.

[0192] [Tables28] Parameter: Fluorescence Active (m ± o) Placebo (m ± o) A% (Pacebo / Active) p value (unpaired t test) Simple damage: Active vs Placebo 48.52+ 13.24 69.11 + 11.5 42.4% < 0.05 -S Cumulative damage: Active vs Placebo 64.7 ± 18.88 84.16 + 17.37 30.1% < 0.05 -S Example 4#: Anti-aging clinical study

[0193] The objective of this study is to objectively evaluate the effectiveness of the anti-aging activity of the concentrate according to the invention compared to a placebo on the basis of several evaluation criteria: wrinkle size, transepidermal water loss and certain biomarkers. Tested formula

[0194] The formulas of the cream containing the concentrate according to the invention and the placebo cream are presented in the table below.

[0195] [Tables29] % Active Ingredient Placebo Aqua 91.6956 92.6956 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 5.0 5.0 1,2-hexanediol 1.0 1.0 Linseed oil concentrate 1.0 Sclerotium gum 1.0 1.0 Caprylyl glycol 0.3 0.3 Citric acid 0.0044 0.0044 Total 100.00 100.00 b. Methodology and protocol

[0196] Blinded, parallel-group study - Before / After. Active versus placebo. 56 days of application with measurements at D0 - D28 - D56.

[0197] Panel: - 2 groups of 20 subjects - Female. - Age: between 45 and 65 years old. - Phototype: I to III - Caucasian.

[0198] Application twice a day, morning and evening as a facial treatment. Under conditions normal use, replacing usual facial care. Concentration on measurement areas: wrinkles, temples, cheeks, etc.

[0199] Inclusion criteria: - Subject with crow's feet wrinkles (score between 3 and 5 on the Bazin scale). - Subject with signs of dryness on the face. - Subject not appearing younger than his age.

[0200] Wrinkle measurement: - Measurements are taken directly in vivo, using the AEVA-HE2 / Evaface system, a high-resolution 3D scanning sensor for measuring the shape and relief of the skin. - Measurement of the microrelief at the temple level outside the crow's feet area. - Measured parameter: Rz = Average height of the asperity = Average relief. - Rz is the average of 5 unique roughness depths, measured in section In. The unique roughness depth is the difference between the highest profile peak and the deepest profile valley within a single measurement section (Ir).

[0201] Clinical evaluation of wrinkles: - Non-visual scale ranging from 0 (Irregular skin with many rough spots and imperfections) to 10 (smooth skin): regularity of the skin. - Clinical scoring is performed by an expert on a structured scale.

[0202] Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements: - The skin barrier acts as a regulator of the skin's water balance. When it is damaged, the water exchange regulatory system becomes destabilized. This means that water migrates more easily to the external environment, thus increasing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). However, if the condition of the skin barrier improves, water loss decreases as the water exchange regulatory mechanism regains its balance. - Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements are performed with an Aquaflux® AF200 (BIOX) or a Tewameter TM300TM (Courage & Khazaka electronics). - The AquaFlux® chamber consists of a small cylinder, closed at its upper end by a condenser whose temperature (-7.6°C) is maintained below the freezing point of water by means of a Peltier cooler. This system makes it possible to control the humidity in the chamber independently of the ambient conditions (temperature and hygrometry variations). - The probe inlet, with a diameter of 7 mm, is placed in contact with the measured area. The water vapor from the skin is permanently transformed into ice by the condenser, thus maintaining a low humidity. On the other hand, in the measurement area, the humidity level is higher. This difference thus causes a migration of water vapor from the measurement area to the condenser by passive diffusion. The water vapor flux (expressed in g / m2 / h) is calculated from the measurements of this humidity gradient and Fick's first law of diffusion.

[0203] Evaluation of biomarkers: - Sampling by D-Squames - Biomarkers - Barrier function: Analysis of long ceramides (EOS) by liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC / MS).

[0204] c. Results Wrinkle measurement

[0205] The measurements of the Rz parameter are presented in the table below. A difference in favor of the active ingredient is observed at D28 for the Rz parameter. Thus the skin of the subjects using the active ingredient is smoother.

[0206] [Tables30] D0 (m+o) D28 (m+o) A(D28-D0) (m +o) A%(D28-D0) % of subjects with improvement Active 38.7+11.1 37.4±9.46 -1.29+3.7 -3.3% 58.3% Placebo 35.86+7.13 36.15+7.36 0.29+2.63 0.8% 45.8% AActive D28-D0 (m+o) APlacebo D28- D0 (m+o) AActive / APlacebo A%(AActive / AP lacebo) Active vs Place bo -1.29+3.7 0.29±2.63 1.58* -122.1% N / A

[0207] *:p<0,l Clinical evaluation of wrinkles

[0208] Figures 3 and 4 respectively show the comparison of the scoring of irregularities and wrinkles under the eyes. For the active ingredient at D28 an improvement in wrinkles under the eyes and a significant improvement in irregularities is observed. At D56 a significant improvement in wrinkles under the eyes and irregularities is observed. A significant difference in favor of the active ingredient is observed at D28 and D56 on the scoring of wrinkles under the eyes and irregularities. Transepidermal water loss measurements

[0209] An aggravation is observed at D28 for the placebo. The active ingredient compensates for the deleterious effect of the placebo. A significant difference in favor of the active ingredient is observed at D28. The active ingredient therefore acts in favor of the protection and repair of the barrier.

[0210] [Tables31] D0 (m+o) D28 (m+o) A(D28-D0) (m +o) A%(D28-D0) % of subjects with improvement Active 19.15+4.71 18.82+5.21 -0.33+4.6 -1.7% 45.8% Placebo 17.28+4.02 20.22+5.47 2.95+5.21 17.1% 25% AActive D28-D0 (m+o) APlacebo D28- D0 (m+o) AActive / APlacebo A%(AActive / AP lacebo) Active vs Place bo -0.33+4.6 2.95±5.21* 3.28* -996.3% N / A

[0211] *:p<0.05 Biomarker assessment

[0212] The results of the EEOS (AU / mg protein) are presented in the table below. The results demonstrate a significant improvement in favor of the active ingredient.

[0213] [Tables32] D0 (m+o) D56 (m+o) A(D56-D0) (m +o) A%(D56-D0) % of subjects with improvement Active 120.67+74.43 135.79+63.94 15.12+18.6* 12.5% ​​80% Placebo 115.13+64.19 120.08+53.27 4.95+23.42 4.3% 70% AActive D56-D0 (m+o) APlacebo D56- D0 (m+o) AActive / APlacebo A% (AActive / A Placebo) Active vs Place bo 15.12+18.6 4.95±23.42 -10.18 -67.3% N / A

[0214] *: p <0.05

Claims

Claims

1. Lipid extract of linseed oil Linum usitatissimum, characterized in that said lipid extract is a linseed oil concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction, containing from 1.5% to 100%, advantageously 3.5% to 100% by weight of unsaponifiables, relative to the total weight of the extract.

2. Extract according to claim 1, characterized in that the lipid extract has a tocopherol content by weight greater than 0.01% by weight, preferably greater than 0.05%, preferably greater than 0.1% by weight of tocopherols, relative to the total weight of the extract, advantageously the lipid extract comprising at least 90% by weight of γ-tocopherol relative to the total weight of tocopherols.

3. Extract according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the lipid extract has a sterol content greater than 1.5% by weight, preferably greater than 2%, more preferably greater than 3%, relative to the total weight of the extract, advantageously the lipid extract comprising: - at least 10% by weight of campesterol relative to the total weight of sterols, - at least 15% by weight of beta-sitosterol relative to the total weight of sterols, and / or - at least 20% by weight of delta-stigmasterol relative to the total weight of sterols.

4. Process for preparing an extract according to any one of claims 1 to 3, comprising the following successive steps: a. molecular distillation of a crude or refined oil of flax seeds Linum usitatissimum; b. where appropriate, extraction of the unsaponifiable matter; c. recovery of the oil concentrated in unsaponifiable matter obtained following step a) or of the unsaponifiable matter obtained following step b); d. optionally a step of deodorization and / or decolorization of the oil concentrated in unsaponifiable matter or of the unsaponifiable matter.

5. Process according to claim 4, characterized in that step b) comprises the following successive steps: i. saponification of the concentrated linseed oil into its unsaponifiable fraction obtained following step a); ii. then extraction of the unsaponifiable using a suitable solvent, such as ethyl acetate and hexane.

6. Composition comprising, as active ingredient, a lipid extract of linseed oil Linum usitatissimum according to any one of claims 1 to 3 and a suitable excipient.

7. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that it comprises from 0.01% to 20% by weight, advantageously from 0.05 to 15%, more advantageously 0.1 to 10%, by weight of said lipid extract, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to claim 6 or 7 or extract obtainable by the process according to claim 4 or 5 or extract according to any one of claims 1 to 3, for its use as, or in, a cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical, nutraceutical composition or as a food supplement.

9. Extract according to any one of claims 1 to 3 or extract obtainable by the process according to claim 4 or 5 or composition according to claim 6 or 7, for its use in preventing and / or treating disorders or pathologies of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or appendages, advantageously inflammatory reactions, disorders linked to intrinsic or extrinsic stress such as psychological stress, stress linked to a state of anxiety, stress linked to radical attacks linked or not to chemical or atmospheric pollution, and / or linked to exposure to UV or IR, disorders of the barrier or homeostasis, photosensitized skin, mechanical and / or thermal aggressions, or for its use as a healing agent.

10. Extract or composition according to claim 9, for its use: - as an anti-aging agent, - to prevent an alteration of and / or maintain the homeostasis of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or appendages, - as an antioxidant and / or anti-inflammatory agent.

11. Extract or composition according to claim 9 or 10, for its use in preventing or delaying premature skin aging, in particular photo-induced, advantageously in preventing, reducing and / or treating wrinkles, fine lines or an alteration of the microrelief.

12. Extract or composition according to any one of claims 9 to 11, for use in the prevention and / or treatment of pathologies or conditions chosen from the group consisting of superficial scars, fragile lips and cheilitis, and fragile, delipidated and sensitive skin.

13. Extract or composition according to any one of claims 9 to 12, for use in the prevention and / or treatment of dry skin.

14. Extract or composition according to any one of claims 9 to 13, for use in the prevention and / or treatment of damaged hair, preferably following exposure to the sun or sea water.

15. Extract according to any one of claims 1 to 3 or extract obtainable by the process according to claim 4 or 5 or composition according to claim 6 or 7, for its use in stimulating, restoring or regulating the metabolism of skin and mucous membrane cells and / or for its use in the prevention and / or treatment of disorders related to epidermal and dermal tissue, advantageously chosen from atopic dermatitis, xerosis and psoriasis.

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