Cosmetic composition comprising cationic dextran polymers, specific anionic surfactants and alkyl(amidoalkyl)betaine surfactants, and cosmetic processing method

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition not comprising a sulfated anionic surfactant, comprising: (i) one or more cationic dextran polymers, (ii) one or more anionic surfactants selected from olefin sulfonates and / or amino acid-derived anionic surfactants, and (iii) one or more amphoteric surfactants of the alkyl(amidoalkyl)betaine type. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method, preferably for cleansing and / or washing keratinous materials, particularly hair, comprising a step of applying such a composition to said keratinous materials.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising cationic dextran polymers, specific anionic surfactants and alkyl(amidoalkyl)betaine surfactants, and cosmetic processing method

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one cationic dextran polymer in association with specific anionic and amphoteric surfactants. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, particularly for washing, of keratinous materials, particularly hair, using said composition.

[0002] It is known to use liquid detergent hair compositions (or shampoos) for cleaning and / or washing hair. These compositions are based primarily on conventional surfactants, including anionic, non-ionic, and / or amphoteric surfactants, but generally anionic. These compositions are applied to wet hair, and the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands allows, after rinsing with water, the removal of various types of dirt initially present on the hair.

[0003] Among the anionic surfactants that could be used, sulfated surfactants, such as alkyl sulfate or alkyl ether sulfate salts, are particularly noteworthy. These surfactants are known to generate abundant foam, making it easy to remove dirt by dispersing it in water, ultimately leading to a feeling of cleanliness.

[0004] In order to preserve natural resources, and in particular water, it is in the interest to offer compositions which make it possible to reduce the amount of water needed, in particular when using the product, especially for rinsing.

[0005] In addition, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say, whose design and development take into account environmental issues, is becoming a major concern in order to help meet global challenges.

[0006] It is therefore essential to propose compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients that address these environmental challenges. In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or those with a high naturalness index and / or of natural origin, and more specifically of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical-derived compounds.

[0007] There is therefore a real need to offer cosmetic compositions that are easy to rinse, in particular to save water when rinsing, while maintaining on the one hand good properties of use such as good intrinsic cleansing power and good quality of foam (abundance in particular), and on the other hand excellent cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of suppleness, detangling, smooth touch.

[0008] It is possible to solve these problems and achieve these goals through the present invention, which relates in particular to a cosmetic composition comprising:

[0009] (i) one or more cationic dextran polymers,

[0010] (ii) one or more anionic surfactants selected from olefin sulfonates and / or anionic surfactants derived from amino acids, and

[0011] (iii) one or more amphoteric surfactants of the alkyl(amidoalkyl)betaine type,

[0012] said composition not comprising an anionic sulfated surfactant.

[0013] The composition according to the invention is particularly easy and quick to rinse, in particular thanks to the use of particular anionic and amphoteric surfactants, as a replacement for the usual sulfated anionic surfactants.

[0014] The composition according to the invention makes it possible to significantly reduce its environmental impact compared to a conventional washing composition based on sulfated surfactants, particularly in terms of water saving.

[0015] In addition, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to give the treated hair good cosmetic properties: the hair is particularly supple, easy to detangle, smooth to the touch, and without a heavy effect (natural touch).

[0016] In this description, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0017] - the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for it;

[0018] - the expression "between" is equivalent to the expression "ranging from" and can be used there to be substituted, and implies that the limits are included;

[0019] - by "keratinous materials" means keratinous fibers, and in particular the hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, skin, nails, mucous membranes or scalp;

[0020] - "keratin fibers" in this application means the fibers human keratin and more specifically hair. Cationic dextran

[0021] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more basic dextran (or dextran) polymers functionalized with one or more cationic groups; these polymers may be referred to in the remainder of this description as "cationic dextrans" or "cationic dextran polymers".

[0022] The cationic group(s) carried by the dextran polymer may be cationic groups and / or groups ionizable into cationic groups; advantageously, this or these groups are of the quaternary ammonium type.

[0023] The cationic dextrans according to the invention do not comprise an anionic group and / or a group ionizable into an anionic group. Furthermore, they are not siliconized (do not comprise a Si-O motif).

[0024] Dextran is a branched polymer of dextrose (or glucose); the glucose units are generally linked by alpha 1-6 bonds; the polymer also has branches generally made up of alpha 1-3 bonds.

[0025] It can in particular be represented in the following way: 4--O-CH, | .............| a-1.6

[0026] The cationic dextran polymer further carries one or more cationic functions, preferably of the quaternary ammonium type, generally linked to the dextran polymer by one of its pendant oxygen atoms.

[0027] Quaternary ammonium cationic functions are advantageously of the type

[0028] -OX-N+R1R2R3, A, in which:

[0029] O represents an oxygen atom during the dextran polymer,

[0030] X is a divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of the alkylene type, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group,

[0031] RI, R2, R3, identical or different, are hydrocarbon radicals, linear or branched, comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably methyl; and

[0032] A is a cosmetically acceptable counter-ion.

[0033] Preferably, Rl=R2=R3=methyl.

[0034] Preferably, A is a halide, in particular a chloride.

[0035] Preferably, X is a divalent hydroxylated radical, in particular a radical divalent hydroxypropyl (i.e. hydroxypropylene), preferably linear.

[0036] Preferred cationic dextran polymers are chosen from dextran polymers bearing quaternary ammonium cationic functions of the type:

[0037] -OX-N+(CH3)3, A- in which:

[0038] O represents an oxygen atom during the dextran polymer,

[0039] X is a divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of the alkylene type, linear or branched, comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group, and

[0040] A is a halide, in particular a chloride.

[0041] A particularly preferred cationic dextran polymer can be represented by the following formula:

[0042] With R, independently of each other, representing H or a radical

[0043] -CH2CH(OH)CH2N+(CH3)3 Cf, at least one of the radicals R being different from H.

[0044] Special mention will be made of the polymer bearing the INCI name: DEXTRAN HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE.

[0045] Preferably, the cationic dextran polymer(s) have a weight average molecular weight (Mw) ranging from 1,000 to 3,000,000 daltons, better from 50,000 to 2,000,000 daltons, even better from 100,000 to 1,000,000 daltons, or even from 125,000 to 800,000 daltons.

[0046] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the cationic dextran polymer(s) in a total content of 0.01 to 10% by weight, better 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better 0.1 to 3% by weight, or even 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] Anionic surfactants olefin sulfonate or amino acid derivatives

[0048] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants selected from olefin sulfonates and / or anionic surfactants derived from amino acids.

[0049] It can therefore comprise one or more anionic surfactants of the olefin sulfonate type, one or more anionic surfactants derived from amino acid, or a mixture of these different types of anionic surfactants. Olefins sulfonates

[0050] The composition according to the invention can therefore comprise one or more anionic surfactants selected from olefin sulfonates, preferably from alpha-olefin sulfonates, even better from linear alpha-olefin sulfonates, preferably comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even better 12 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular 14 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0051] Sulfonate olefins are known compounds and are described in particular in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Chemical Industries or in US patent 8211850. These compounds are generally obtained by sulfonation of long-chain alpha-olefins.

[0052] The linear α-olefin sulfonates according to the invention generally comprise, in a known manner, a mixture of linear sulfonate alkenes, in particular of formula (A), optionally mixed with linear sulfonate hydroxyalkanes, in particular of formula (B).

[0053] Linear sulfonate alkenes therefore correspond to formula (A):

[0054] R-CH2-CH=CH-(CH2)n-SO3M

[0055] in which:

[0056] - R is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, even better from 10 to 14 carbon atoms;

[0057] - n is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 1 and 4, and even better n=l;

[0058] - M being a cosmetically acceptable cation, in particular chosen from the cation ammonium, cations from alkali or alkaline earth metals, cations from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those from alkali metals; and in particular Na+ or K+.

[0059] Preferably, R represents a linear alkyl radical comprising 8 to 14 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 12 carbon atoms.

[0060] Preferably, M is derived from an alkali metal, in particular Na+ or K+.

[0061] Preferably, the linear sulfonate alkenes according to the invention have the following formula: O He _ R-CH—CH=CH—CH—S-0 M+ * He O

[0062] in which:

[0063] - R is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, even better from 10 to 12 carbon atoms;

[0064] - M being a cosmetically acceptable cation, in particular chosen from the cation ammonium, cations from alkali or alkaline earth metals, cations from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those from alkali metals or alkali metals, and in particular Na+ or K+.

[0065] Linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates can have the formula (B):

[0066] R'-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-(CH2)n'-SO3M'

[0067] in which:

[0068] - R' is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, even better from 10 to 14 carbon atoms;

[0069] - n' is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 1 and 4, and even better n'=l ;

[0070] - M' being a cosmetically acceptable cation, in particular chosen from the cation ammonium, cations from alkali or alkaline earth metals, cations from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those from alkali metals, and in particular Na+ or K+.

[0071] Preferably, R' represents a linear alkyl radical comprising 8 to 14 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 12 carbon atoms.

[0072] Preferably, M' is derived from an alkali metal, in particular Na+ or K+.

[0073] Preferably, linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates have the following formula: O He _ R — CH—CH-CH—CH— SO M'+ * ! 4 4 j| OH q

[0074] in which:

[0075] - R' is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, even better from 10 to 12 carbon atoms;

[0076] - M' being a cosmetically acceptable cation, in particular chosen from the cation ammonium, cations from alkali or alkaline earth metals, cations from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those from alkali metals or alkali metals, and in particular Na+ or K+.

[0077] Preferably, R and R' are identical.

[0078] Preferably, M and M' are identical.

[0079] Preferably, the olefin sulfonates according to the invention are selected from linear α-olefin sulfonates comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even better 12 to 20 carbon atoms, especially 14 to 18 carbon atoms; especially alkali metals, particularly sodium.

[0080] We can cite in particular as commercial products, those offered under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40A or BIO-TERGE AS-40HA by the company STEPAN, or CALSOFT AOS-40 by the company PILOT CHEMICAL, or even NANSA LSS38 / AV by the company HUNTSMAN. Amino acid-derived surfactants

[0081] The composition according to the invention may include one or more anionic surfactants derived from amino acids (or amino acids).

[0082] In particular, these surfactants can conform to formula (I):

[0083] RC(O)-NH-L-(COO )x Ax+ in which:

[0084] - R is an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 6 to 30 atoms of carbon, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0085] - L is a divalent or trivalent hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, specifically from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 3 carbon atoms; x being equal to 1 when L is divalent and equal to 2 when L is trivalent; and

[0086] - A+ or A++ is a cosmetically acceptable counterion, and can represent H or when the anionic surfactant is in salt form, an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, an alkaline earth metal such as magnesium, an ammonium, a derivative of amines and in particular of amino alcohols.

[0087] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) derived from amino acids are chosen from, alone or in mixture, the compounds of formula (I) in which L is a divalent group -CH2- or -CH(CH3)- or a trivalent group -CH(CH2CH2-)-.

[0088] Preferably, A represents an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, an alkaline earth metal such as magnesium, or an ammonium.

[0089] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of formula (I) are chosen from, alone or in mixture:

[0090] - acyl alaninates and their salts, acyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0091] - acyl glycinates, as well as their salts, the acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, or even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; and / or

[0092] - acyl glutamates, as well as their salts, acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0093] preferably in the form of salts, in particular selected from alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0094] In particular, examples may be cited, alone or in combination:

[0095] - cocoyl alaninate salts, in particular sodium cocoyl alaninate,

[0096] - stearoyl glutamate salts, in particular sodium stearoyl glutamate and disodium stearoyl glutamate,

[0097] - cocoyl glutamate salts, in particular sodium cocoyl glutamate or disodium, TEA cocoyl glutamate (triethanolamine);

[0098] - lauroyl glutamate salts, in particular sodium lauroyl glutamate or disodium,

[0099] - palmitoyl glutamate salts, in particular sodium palmitoyl glutamate or magnesium,

[0100] - cocoyl glycinate salts, in particular sodium cocoyl glycinate or potassium.

[0101] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants selected from:

[0102] - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even better from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, especially from 14 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0103] - acyl alaninates and their salts, acyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0104] - acyl glycinates, as well as their salts, the acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, or even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; and / or

[0105] - acyl glutamates, as well as their salts, acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0106] preferably in the form of salts, in particular selected from alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0107] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the anionic surfactant(s) selected from olefin sulfonates and / or anionic surfactants derived from amino acids, in a total quantity from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 4 to 18% by weight, preferably from 6 to 16% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0108] Advantageously, the total quantity of the anionic surfactant(s) selected from:

[0109] - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even better from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, especially from 14 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0110] - acyl alaninates and their salts, acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0111] - acyl glycinates, as well as their salts, the acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, or even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; and / or

[0112] - acyl glutamates, as well as their salts, acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0113] preferably in the form of salts, in particular selected from salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohols,

[0114] in the composition according to the invention, ranges from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 4 to 18% by weight, preferably from 6 to 16% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Optional additional anionic surfactants

[0115] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more additional anionic surfactants, different from the anionic surfactants selected from olefin sulfonates and amino acid-derived anionic surfactants, as described above.

[0116] This or these additional anionic surfactants are non-sulfated; they may be, in a known manner, sulfonates or carboxylics (or carboxylates).

[0117] Indeed, the cosmetic composition according to the invention does not comprise anionic surfactant of the sulfate type. This means that the total content of sulfated anionic surfactants is less than or equal to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, in particular less than or equal to 0.05% by weight, or even better, this content is equal to 0.

[0118] For the purposes of this invention, "sulfated anionic surfactant" means surfactants comprising at least one anionic group or a group ionizable into an anionic group, selected from among the sulfate functional groups (-OSO3H or -OSO3-); they may optionally include sulfonate and / or carboxylate groups. Examples include alkyl sulfates, alkylamidosulfates, alkyl ethersulfates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylarylethersulfates, and monoglyceride sulfates; as well as their salts.

[0119] As additional anionic surfactants that may be present in the composition according to the invention, the following anionic surfactants may be mentioned:

[0120] RXL-(Y )y Ay+

[0121] in which:

[0122] - R is an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 6 to 30 atoms of carbon, in particular from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms, possibly including 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, in particular from 1 to 10, or even from 1 to 4 ethylene oxide motifs;

[0123] - X is a divalent radical chosen from -OC(O)- and -C(O)-O-,

[0124] - L is a divalent or trivalent hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, compre consisting of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 1 to 4 carbon atoms, better 1 to 3 carbon atoms; y = 1 when L is divalent and y = 2 when L is trivalent;

[0125] - Y, which can be identical or different when y=2, is chosen from the group sulfonate SO3 and the carboxylate group COO, and

[0126] - A+ or A++ is a cosmetically acceptable counterion, and can represent H or when the anionic surfactant is in salt form, an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, an alkaline earth metal such as magnesium, an ammonium, a derivative of amines and in particular of amino alcohols.

[0127] Preferably, in formula (I), L is a divalent group -CH2-, -CH2-CH2- or -CH2-CH(CH3)- or a trivalent group -CH-CH2-.

[0128] Preferably, A represents an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, an alkaline earth metal such as magnesium, or an ammonium.

[0129] Preferably, Y- is a sulfonate group when y=1, and a sulfonate group and a carboxylate group when y=2.

[0130] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of formula (I) are chosen from, alone or in mixture, the compounds of formula (I) in which:

[0131] - X is -OC(O)-, L is a methylene group and Y- is a sulfonate group SO3-;

[0132] - X is -OC(O)-, L is a trivalent group comprising 2 to 3 carbon atoms, specifically 2 carbon atoms; y=2 and one of the Y- is a sulfonate group, the other Y is a carboxylate group; or

[0133] - X is -C(O)-O-, L is a divalent (alkylene) group comprising 2 to 3 atoms of carbon, specifically -CH2-CH2- or -CH2-CH(CH3)- ; and Y is a sulfonate group.

[0134] Preferably, A represents an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, or an alkaline earth metal such as magnesium, an ammonium.

[0135] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of formula (I) are chosen from, alone or in mixture:

[0136] - alkyl sulfoacetates and their salts, alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0137] - acyl isethionates and their salts, acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0138] - acyl methylisethionates and their salts, the acyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0139] - alkylsulfosuccinates and their salts, alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0140] - alkyl ether sulfosuccinates and their salts, alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 24, even better 10 to 20, or even 10 to 16, carbon atoms; and comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, in particular 1 to 10, or even 1 to 4 ethylene oxide motifs;

[0141] preferably in the form of salts, in particular selected from alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0142] Even more preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of formula (I) are chosen from, alone or in mixture:

[0143] - alkyl sulfoacetates and their salts, alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0144] - acyl methylisethionates and their salts, acyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0145] - alkyl ether sulfosuccinates and their salts, alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 24, even better 10 to 20, or even 10 to 16, carbon atoms; and comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, in particular 1 to 10, or even 1 to 4 ethylene oxide motifs;

[0146] preferably in the form of salts, in particular selected from alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0147] In particular, examples include lauryl sulfoacetate or cocoyl sulfoacetate salts, especially sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and sodium cocoyl sulfoacetate; cocoyl methylisethionate or lauryl methylisethionate salts, especially sodium cocoyl methylisethionate and sodium lauryl methylisethionate; cocoyl isethionate or lauryl isethionate salts, especially sodium cocoyl isethionate and sodium lauryl isethionate; laureth sulfosuccinate salts, including disodium laureth sulfosuccinate; lauryl sulfosuccinate or coco sulfosuccinate salts, including disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium coco sulfosuccinate.

[0148] Advantageously, the total content of additional anionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention, when present, can range from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0149] When present, preferably the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) of formula (I) in the composition according to the invention, can range from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amphoteric surfactants

[0150] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants selected from alkyl(amidoalkyl)betaines.

[0151] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not include any amphoteric surfactant other than those selected from alkyl(amidoalkyl)betaines.

[0152] This or these surfactants can thus be chosen in particular from among, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines and alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines.

[0153] Preferably, they may be selected from, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C10-C18)betaines and alkyl(C10-C18)amidoalkyl(C3-C6)betaines; even better from, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C10-C16)betaines and alkyl(C10-C16)amidoalkyl(C3-C5)betaines. Cocobetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof may be mentioned in particular.

[0154] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants selected from alkyl(C10-C16)amidoalkyl(C3-C5)betaines, more preferably cocamidopropylbetaine.

[0155] Preferably, the total content of the amphoteric surfactant(s) selected from among the alkyl(amidoalkyl)betaines, in the composition according to the invention, can range from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better from 1 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0156] Preferably, the total content of the amphoteric surfactant(s) selected from the alkyl(C10-C16)amidoalkyl(C3-C5)betaines, in the composition according to the invention, can range from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better from 1 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Other ingredients

[0157] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents selected from the C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; and mixtures thereof.

[0158] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises water in a total content of between 65 and 98% by weight, preferably between 70 and 95% by weight, preferably between 75 and 92% by weight, even better between 80 and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0159] The pH of the composition according to the invention generally varies from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 7, preferably from 4 to 6, and better from 5 to 6.

[0160] The invention further relates to a cosmetic treatment process, preferably for cleaning and / or washing keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers, especially human keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising a step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition as defined above.

[0161] Preferably, a step of rinsing the keratinous materials, for example with water, is implemented after the step of applying the composition according to the invention.

[0162] A drying step of the keratinous materials may be provided in the process according to the invention, in particular after the rinsing step, in particular using a heating means such as a hair dryer.

[0163] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention but are not intended to be limiting. In these examples, quantities are expressed in grams of active ingredient (AI) unless otherwise stated. Example 1

[0164] Cosmetic compositions A according to the invention and B comparative are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below.

[0165] [Tables 1] Composition A (invention) B (comparative) Sodium cocoyl alaninate 12 12 Dextran hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.3 0.3 Cocamidopropyl betaine 4 - Sodium cocoamphoacetate - 4 Sodium chloride 0.7 0.9 Preservatives, perfumes Qs Qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100

[0166] Compositions are obtained that can be used as a rinse-off shampoo for washing hair. A / Evaluation of cosmetic performance

[0167] The cosmetic performance, in terms of smoothness to the touch, suppleness and detangling, provided by compositions A and B is evaluated.

[0168] Each of compositions A and B was applied to wet hair strands (5.4 g strands, sensitized SA20), at a rate of 0.6 g of composition per gram of strand. The strands were rinsed without waiting time. The evaluation on wet hair was carried out.

[0169] A score of 0 was assigned to the strands treated with comparative composition B, and a score ranging from -3 to +3, in increments of 0.5, was assigned to the strands treated with composition A. The comparative evaluation was carried out blindly by 3 experts.

[0170] Each entire note corresponds to the following elements:

[0171] + / - 3: large difference

[0172] + / - 2: average difference

[0173] + / - 1: small difference

[0174] 0: equivalent (no difference).

[0175] Results are considered better when the score is positive, and worse when the score is negative.

[0176] The smoothness to the touch was assessed as follows: assessment by touch of the homogeneity of the hair from root to tip by taking a strand of hair at the root and sliding it between the fingers to the tips; the more uniform the sensation to the touch, the better the smoothness to the touch.

[0177] Flexibility was assessed as follows: the assessor takes the hair in their hands and tries to bend it. The more easily the hair can be bent and curved, the more malleable it is, and the better its flexibility.

[0178] Detangling was assessed as follows: detangling is assessed using a comb that the assessor slides from root to tip. The more easily the comb slides, the better the detangling.

[0179] The following results are obtained (average of 3 scores):

[0180] [Tables2] Smooth to the touch, Suppleness, Detangling. A (invention) B (comparative) A (invention) B (comparative) A (invention) B (comparative) Expert 1 +2 0 +1 0 +1 0 Expert 2 +2 0 +1 0 +1 0 Expert 3 +1 0 +1 0 +1 0 Mean +1.7 0 +1 0 +1 0 Standard deviation 0.6 0 0 0 0 0 B / Evaluation of rinseability performance

[0181] To evaluate rinseability performance, three drops of artificial sebum were applied using a pipette to strands of hair (5.4 g, sensitized SA20) and distributed along the entire length of the strand. The strands were then wetted and towel-dried.

[0182] Then 0.25g of the composition to be tested was applied to the strand. The strand was then rinsed until the sensation to the touch of the strand no longer changed, i.e. when there was no more sebum on the strand.

[0183] The time required to rinse each strand was compared with that obtained with a reference shampoo (Garnier Fructis Aloe Hydrabomb). The shorter the rinsing time, the easier the rinsing.

[0184] Each expert (3 experts) assigned a score corresponding to rinsing times ranging from -3 to 3, in increments of 0.5, to the wicks to be evaluated, according to the same rating scale as described above. A score of 0 was assigned to the reference composition.

[0185] The score is positive if the rinsing time is shorter, the score is negative if the rinsing time is longer.

[0186] The following results are obtained (average of 3 scores):

[0187] [Tables3] Rinsability A (invention) B (comparative) Reference Expert 1 +1 0 0 Expert 2 +1 -1 0 Expert 3 +1.5 0 0 Average +1.2 -0.3 0 Standard deviation 0.3 0.6 0

[0188] The foam generated by each of the compositions is similar in quantity and quality.

[0189] It is observed that composition A according to the invention is much easier to rinse off that the comparative composition and that the reference composition.

[0190] Hair washed with composition A according to the invention also exhibits better cosmetic properties, including a smoother feel, better suppleness and better detangling, on wet hair, compared to hair washed with comparative composition B.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition comprising: (i) one or more cationic dextran polymers, (ii) one or more anionic surfactants selected from olefin sulfonates and / or amino acid-derived anionic surfactants, and (iii) one or more amphoteric surfactants of the alky l(amidoalky l)betaine type, said composition not comprising any sulfated anionic surfactant.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the cationic dextran polymer bears one or more quaternary ammonium cationic functions, advantageously of the type -OX-N+R1R2R3, A, wherein: O represents a pendant oxygen atom of the dextran polymer, X is a divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of the alkylene type, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group, RI, R2, R3, identical or different, are hydrocarbon radicals, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably methyl; and A is a cosmetically acceptable counterion;in particular of the type -OX-N+(CH3)3, A- in which: 0 represents an oxygen atom pendant to the dextran polymer, X is a divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of the alkylene type, linear or branched, comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group, and A is a halide, in particular a chloride.;

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic dextran polymer is represented by the following formula:

3.

4.

5.

6.

7. With R, independently of each other, representing H or a radical -CH2CH(OH)CH2N+(CH3)3 Cf, at least one of the radicals R being different from H. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic dextran polymer has the INCI name: DEXTRAN HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the cationic dextran polymer(s) in a total content of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better 0.1 to 3% by weight, or even 0.2 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more anionic surfactants selected from olefin sulfonates, preferably from alpha-olefin sulfonates, even better from linear alpha-olefin sulfonates, preferably comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even better 12 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular 14 to 18 carbon atoms; in particular alkali metals, in particular sodium. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more anionic surfactants derived from amino acids corresponding to the formula (I): RC(O)-NH-L-(COO-)x Ax+ in which: - R is an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; - L is a divalent or trivalent hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, better from 1 to 3 carbon atoms; x being equal to 1 when L is divalent and equal to 2 when L is trivalent; and - A+ or A++ is a cosmetically acceptable counterion, and may represent H or when the anionic surfactant is in salt form, an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, an alkaline earth metal such as magnesium, an ammonium, a derivative of amines and in particular of amino alcohols.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more anionic surfactants derived from amino acids selected from, alone or in mixture: - acyl alaninates and their salts, acyl groups having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; - acyl glycinates and their salts, acyl groups having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; and / or - acyl glutamates, as well as their salts, acyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 24, even better 10 to 20, or even 10 to 16, carbon atoms; preferably in the form of salts, in particular chosen from the salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohols.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the anionic surfactant(s) selected from olefin sulfonates and / or anionic surfactants derived from amino acids, in a total amount from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 4 to 18% by weight, preferably from 6 to 16% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising one or more additional anionic surfactants, different from the anionic surfactants selected from olefin sulfonates and amino acid-derived anionic surfactants; preferably conforming to the following formula (I): RXL-(Y)y Ay+ in which: - R is an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even 10 to 16, carbon atoms, possibly including 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, in particular 1 to 10, or even 1 to 4 ethylene oxide motifs; - X is a divalent radical chosen from -OC(O)- and -C(O)-O-, - L is a divalent or trivalent hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 3 carbon atoms; y = 1 when L is divalent and y = 2 when L is trivalent; - Y, which can be the same or different when y=2, is chosen from the sulfonate group SO3 and the carboxylate group COO, and - A+ or A++ is a cosmetically acceptable counterion, and can represent H or when the anionic surfactant is in salt form, an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, an alkaline earth metal such as magnesium, an ammonium, a derivative of amines and in particular of amino alcohols;Preferably chosen from among, alone or in mixture, the compounds of formula (I) in which: - X is -OC(O)-, L is a methylene group and Y- is a sulfonate group SO3-; - X is -OC(O)-, L is a trivalent group comprising 2 to 3 carbon atoms, in particular 2 carbon atoms; y=2 and one of the Y- is a sulfonate group, the other Y is a carboxylate group; or - X is -C(O)-O-, L is a divalent (alkylene) group comprising 2 to 3 carbon atoms, in particular -CH2-CH2- or -CH2-CH(CH3)-; and Y is a sulfonate group.

11. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more amphoteric surfactants selected from, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C8-C20)betaines and alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines; preferably from, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C10-C18)betaines and alkyl(C10-C18)amidoalkyl(C3-C6)betaines; even better from, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C10-C16)betaines and alkyl(C10-C16)amidoalkyl(C3-C5)betaines; in particular cocobetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the amphoteric surfactant(s) selected from alkyl(amidoalkyl)betaines, in a total content of 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better from 1 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising water, preferably in a total content of between 65 and 98% by weight, preferably between 70 and 95% by weight, preferably between 75 and 92% by weight, even better between 80 and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. A cosmetic treatment process, preferably for cleaning and / or washing keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers, especially human keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising a step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13.

15. A method according to claim 14, comprising a step of rinsing the keratin materials, for example with water, after the step of applying the composition.

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