Cosmetic composition comprising cationic dextran polymers and specific anionic surfactants, and cosmetic processing method

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising one or more cationic dextran polymers and one or more anionic surfactants of the formula RXL-(Y-)y Ay+, wherein: - R is a C6-C30 alkyl group, optionally oxyethylenated, - X is a divalent radical selected from -OC(O)- and -C(O)-O-, - L is a divalent or trivalent hydrocarbon group in the C1-C6 range, and - Y- is a sulfonate or carboxylate group. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, preferably for cleansing and / or washing keratinous materials, particularly hair, comprising a step of applying such a composition to said keratinous materials.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising cationic dextran polymers and specific anionic surfactants, and cosmetic processing method

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one cationic dextran polymer, in association with specific anionic surfactants. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, particularly for washing, of keratinous materials, particularly hair, using said composition.

[0002] It is known to use liquid detergent hair compositions (or shampoos) for cleaning and / or washing hair. These compositions are based primarily on conventional surfactants, including anionic, non-ionic, and / or amphoteric surfactants, but generally anionic. These compositions are applied to wet hair, and the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands allows, after rinsing with water, the removal of various types of dirt initially present on the hair.

[0003] Among the anionic surfactants that could be used, sulfated surfactants, such as alkyl sulfate or alkyl ether sulfate salts, are particularly noteworthy. These surfactants are known to generate abundant foam, making it easy to remove dirt by dispersing it in water, ultimately leading to a feeling of cleanliness.

[0004] In order to preserve natural resources, and in particular water, it is in the interest to offer compositions which make it possible to reduce the amount of water needed, in particular when using the product, especially for rinsing.

[0005] In addition, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say, whose design and development take into account environmental issues, is becoming a major concern in order to help meet global challenges.

[0006] It is therefore essential to propose compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients that address these environmental challenges. In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or those with a high naturalness index and / or of natural origin, and more specifically of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical-derived compounds.

[0007] There is therefore a real need to offer cosmetic compositions that are easy to rinse off, particularly in order to save water during rinsing, while retaining on the one hand good usage properties such as good intrinsic cleansing power and good quality of foam (abundance in particular), and on the other hand excellent cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of suppleness, detangling, smooth touch, while maintaining a natural feel to the hair.

[0008] It is possible to solve these problems and achieve these goals through the present invention, which relates in particular to a cosmetic composition comprising:

[0009] (i) one or more cationic dextran polymers, and

[0010] (ii) one or more anionic surfactants corresponding to the following formula (I):

[0011] RXL-(Y )y Ay+ in which:

[0012] - R is an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 6 to 30 atoms of carbon, in particular from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms, possibly including 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, in particular from 1 to 10, better from 1 to 4 ethylene oxide motifs;

[0013] - X is a divalent radical chosen from -OC(O)- and -C(O)-O-,

[0014] - L is a divalent or trivalent hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, especially from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, better from 1 to 3 carbon atoms; y = 1 when L is divalent and y = 2 when L is trivalent;

[0015] - Y, which can be identical or different when y=2, is chosen from the group sulfonate SO3 and the carboxylate group COO, and

[0016] - A+ or A++ is a cosmetically acceptable counter-ion.

[0017] The composition according to the invention is particularly easy and quick to rinse, in particular thanks to the use of particular anionic surfactants, in addition to or replacement of the usual sulfated anionic surfactants.

[0018] The composition according to the invention makes it possible to significantly reduce its environmental impact compared to a conventional washing composition based on sulfated surfactants, particularly in terms of water saving.

[0019] In addition, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to give the treated hair good cosmetic properties: the hair is particularly supple, easy to detangle, smooth to the touch, and without a heavy effect (natural touch).

[0020] In this description, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0021] - the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for it;

[0022] - the expression "between" is equivalent to the expression "ranging from" and can be used there to be substituted, and implies that the limits are included;

[0023] - by "keratinous materials" means keratinous fibers, and in particular the hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, skin, nails, mucous membranes or scalp;

[0024] - "keratin fibers" in this application means the fibers human keratin and more specifically hair. Cationic dextran

[0025] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more basic dextran (or dextran) polymers functionalized with one or more cationic groups; these polymers may be referred to in the remainder of this description as "cationic dextrans" or "cationic dextran polymers".

[0026] The cationic group(s) carried by the dextran polymer may be cationic groups and / or groups ionizable into cationic groups; advantageously, this or these groups are of the quaternary ammonium type.

[0027] The cationic dextrans according to the invention do not comprise an anionic group and / or a group ionizable into an anionic group. Furthermore, they are not siliconized (do not comprise a Si-O motif).

[0028] Dextran is a branched polymer of dextrose (or glucose); the glucose units are generally linked by alpha 1-6 bonds; the polymer also has branches generally made up of alpha 1-3 bonds.

[0029] It can in particular be represented in the following way: a-1.6

[0030] The cationic dextran polymer further carries one or more cationic functions, preferably of the quaternary ammonium type, generally linked to the dextran polymer by one of its pendant oxygen atoms.

[0031] Quaternary ammonium cationic functions are advantageously of the type

[0032] -OX-N+R1R2R3, A, in which:

[0033] O represents an oxygen atom during the dextran polymer,

[0034] X is a divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of the alkylene type, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group,

[0035] RI, R2, R3, identical or different, are hydrocarbon radicals, linear or branched, comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably methyl; and

[0036] A is a cosmetically acceptable counter-ion.

[0037] Preferably, Rl=R2=R3=methyl.

[0038] Preferably, A is a halide, in particular a chloride.

[0039] Preferably, X is a divalent hydroxylated radical, in particular a radical divalent hydroxypropyl (hydroxypropylene), preferably linear.

[0040] Preferred cationic dextran polymers are chosen from dextran polymers bearing quaternary ammonium cationic functions of the type:

[0041] -OX-N+(CH3)3, A- in which:

[0042] O represents an oxygen atom during the dextran polymer,

[0043] X is a divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of the alkylene type, linear or branched, comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group, and

[0044] A is a halide, in particular a chloride.

[0045] A particularly preferred cationic dextran polymer can be represented by the following formula:

[0046] With R, independently of each other, representing H or a radical

[0047] -CH2CH(OH)CH2N+(CH3)3 Cl, at least one of the radicals R being different from H.

[0048] Special mention will be made of the polymer bearing the INCI name: DEXTRAN HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE.

[0049] Preferably, the cationic dextran polymer(s) have a weight average molecular weight (Mw) ranging from 1,000 to 3,000,000 daltons, better from 50,000 to 2,000,000 daltons, even better from 100,000 to 1,000,000 daltons, or even from 125,000 to 800,000 daltons.

[0050] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the cationic dextran polymer(s) in a total content of 0.01 to 10% by weight, better 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better 0.1 to 3% by weight, or even 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Specific non-sulfated anionic surfactants

[0051] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more anionic surfactants corresponding to the formula (I): RXL-(Y)y Ay+

[0052] in which:

[0053] - R is an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 6 to 30 atoms of carbon, in particular from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms, possibly including 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, in particular from 1 to 10, or even from 1 to 4 ethylene oxide motifs;

[0054] - X is a divalent radical chosen from -OC(O)- and -C(O)-O-,

[0055] - L is a divalent or trivalent hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, compre consisting of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 1 to 4 carbon atoms, better 1 to 3 carbon atoms; y = 1 when L is divalent and y = 2 when L is trivalent;

[0056] - Y, which can be identical or different when y=2, is chosen from the group sulfonate SO3 and the carboxylate group COO, and

[0057] - A+ or A++ is a cosmetically acceptable counterion, and can represent H or when the anionic surfactant is in salt form, an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, an alkaline earth metal such as magnesium, an ammonium, a derivative of amines and in particular of amino alcohols.

[0058] These surfactants of formula (I) are non-sulfated; they can be sulfonates or carboxylic (or carboxylates).

[0059] It is obviously possible to use a mixture of anionic surfactants of formula (I).

[0060] Preferably, in formula (I), L is a divalent group -CH2-, -CH2-CH2- or -CH2-CH(CH3)- or a trivalent group -CH-CH2-.

[0061] Preferably, A represents an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, an alkaline earth metal such as magnesium, or an ammonium.

[0062] Preferably, Y- is a sulfonate group when y=1, and a sulfonate group and a carboxylate group when y=2.

[0063] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of formula (I) are chosen from, alone or in mixture, the compounds of formula (I) in which:

[0064] - X is -OC(O)-, L is a methylene group and Y- is a sulfonate group SO3-;

[0065] - X is -OC(O)-, L is a trivalent group comprising 2 to 3 carbon atoms, specifically 2 carbon atoms; y=2 and one of the Y- is a sulfonate group, the other Y is a carboxylate group; or

[0066] - X is -C(O)-O-, L is a divalent group (alkylene) comprising 2 to 3 atoms of carbon, specifically -CH2-CH2- or -CH2-CH(CH3)- ; and Y is a sulfonate group.

[0067] Preferably, A represents an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, or an alkaline earth metal such as magnesium, an ammonium.

[0068] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of formula (I) are chosen from, alone or in mixture:

[0069] - alkylsulfoacetates and their salts, alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0070] - acyl isethionates and their salts, acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0071] - acyl methylisethionates and their salts, the acyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0072] - alkylsulfosuccinates and their salts, alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0073] - alkyl ether sulfosuccinates and their salts, alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 24, even better 10 to 20, or even 10 to 16, carbon atoms; and comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, in particular 1 to 10, or even 1 to 4 ethylene oxide motifs;

[0074] preferably in the form of salts, in particular selected from alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0075] Even more preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of formula (I) are chosen from, alone or in mixture:

[0076] - alkylsulfoacetates and their salts, alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0077] - acyl methylisethionates and their salts, acyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0078] - alkyl ether sulfosuccinates and their salts, alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 24, even better 10 to 20, or even 10 to 16, carbon atoms; and comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, in particular 1 to 10, or even 1 to 4 ethylene oxide motifs;

[0079] preferably in the form of salts, in particular selected from alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0080] In particular, we can mention lauryl sulfoacetate or cocoyl sulfoacetate salts, especially sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and sodium cocoyl sulfoacetate; Cocoyl methylisethionate or lauryl methylisethionate salts, including sodium cocoyl methylisethionate and sodium lauryl methylisethionate; cocoyl isethionate or lauryl isethionate salts, including sodium cocoyl isethionate and sodium lauryl isethionate; laureth sulfosuccinate salts, including disodium laureth sulfosuccinate; lauryl sulfosuccinate or coco sulfosuccinate salts, including disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium coco sulfosuccinate.

[0081] Advantageously, the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) of formula (I), in the composition according to the invention, ranges from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.8 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0082] Better, the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) of formula (I) chosen from, alone or in mixture:

[0083] - alkylsulfoacetates and their salts, alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0084] - acyl isethionates and their salts, acyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0085] - acyl methylisethionates and their salts, acyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0086] - alkylsulfosuccinates and their salts, alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0087] - alkyl ether sulfosuccinates and their salts, alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 24, even better 10 to 20, or even 10 to 16, carbon atoms; and comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, in particular 1 to 10, or even 1 to 4 ethylene oxide motifs;

[0088] preferably in the form of salts, in particular selected from salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohols,

[0089] in the composition according to the invention, ranges from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.8 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0090] Even better, the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) of formula (I) chosen from, alone or in mixture:

[0091] - alkyl sulfoacetates and their salts, alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0092] - acyl methylisethionates and their salts, the acyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0093] - alkyl ether sulfosuccinates and their salts, alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 24, even better 10 to 20, or even 10 to 16, carbon atoms; and comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, in particular 1 to 10, or even 1 to 4 ethylene oxide motifs;

[0094] preferably in the form of salts, in particular selected from alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol;

[0095] in the composition according to the invention, ranges from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.8 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Optional sulfated anionic surfactants

[0096] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more anionic sulfate (or sulfated) surfactants.

[0097] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic sulfate (or sulfated) surfactants.

[0098] The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.

[0099] In the present description, an entity is qualified as "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium, pH for example) and not comprising a cationic charge.

[0100] In a manner known per se, anionic surfactants may comprise sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) groups (or functions), alone or in mixture.

[0101] For the purposes of the present invention, anionic sulfate surfactant is understood to be an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3), but not comprising a carboxylate function, nor a sulfonate function.

[0102] Anionic sulfate surfactants can thus be selected from, alone or in mixtures, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ethers sulfates, alkylamidoethers sulfates, alkylaryl polyethers sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; as well as salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 atoms of carbon, in particular from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds being able to be (poly)oxyalkylated, in particular (poly)oxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 1 to 20, or even from 1 to 10, ethylene oxide motifs.

[0103] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohols.

[0104] Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane.

[0105] Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are preferably used, and in particular salts of sodium or magnesium.

[0106] Preferably, the anionic sulfate surfactants are selected from, alone or in mixtures:

[0107] - alkyl sulfates, especially in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10- C20, or even C10-C16, as well as their salts;

[0108] - alkyl ether sulfates, in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10-C20, or even in C10-C16, preferably comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs; as well as their salts;

[0109] said salts being in particular chosen from among the salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0110] Preferably, the anionic sulfate surfactant(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixture, alkyl sulfates, especially C6-C30, better C8-C24, even better C10-C20, or even C10-C16, and their salts, especially chosen from alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts, or amino alcohol salts; even better from alkali or alkaline earth metal salts of alkyl sulfates, especially C6-C30, better C8-C24, even better C10-C20, or even C10-C16; advantageously C10-C20, or even C10-C16; and especially alkali or alkaline earth metal salts of lauryl sulfate, such as sodium lauryl sulfate.

[0111] Advantageously, the total content of sulfate anionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention can range from 1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 3 to 20% by weight, preferably from 4 to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] Advantageously, the total content of anionic sulfate surfactants selected from, alone or in mixture:

[0113] - alkyl sulfates, especially in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10- C20, or even C10-C16, as well as their salts;

[0114] - alkyl ether sulfates, in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10-C20, or even in C10-C16, preferably comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs; as well as their salts;

[0115] said salts being in particular chosen from among the salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol;

[0116] in the composition according to the invention can range from 1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 3 to 20% by weight, preferably from 4 to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0117] Advantageously, the total content of anionic sulfate surfactants selected from alkyl sulfates, in particular C6-C30, better C8-C24, even better C10-C20, or even C10-C16, as well as their alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, in the composition according to the invention can range from 1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 3 to 20% by weight, preferably from 4 to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0118] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more non-sulfate (or non-sulfated) anionic surfactants different from the surfactants of formula (I) above.

[0119] Advantageously, the total content of anionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention, when present, can range from 5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 6 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants

[0120] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

[0121] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

[0122] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) may in particular be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, possibly quatemized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0123] Among the usable secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, possibly quantified, as defined above, we may also mention the compounds with the following respective formulas (3) and (4):

[0124] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO, M+, X (3)

[0125] in which:

[0126] - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

[0127] - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and

[0128] - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

[0129] - M+ represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such that sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine, and

[0130] - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as the one chosen among the halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent;

[0131] Ra -CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (4)

[0132] in which:

[0133] - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX';

[0134] - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2;

[0135] - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2- COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;

[0136] - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z' ;

[0137] - Z' represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as that sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0138] - Ra- represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra-COOH of preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially in Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group.

[0139] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0140] As an example, we can cite cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

[0141] Compounds of formula (5) can also be used:

[0142] Ra -NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n -N(Rd)(Re) (5)

[0143] in which:

[0144] - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z”;

[0145] - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent an alkyl radical or hydroxyalkyl in C1 to C4;

[0146] - Z” represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0147] - R, represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra—COOH of preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil;

[0148] - n and n', independently of each other, denotes an integer from 1 to 3.

[0149] Among the compounds of formula (5) we can mention the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

[0150] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) may also be selected in particular from, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and alkyl(C8-C20)-amidoalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines.

[0151] Preferably, when present, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, compounds of formula (3) and compounds of formula (4) as defined above.

[0152] Preferably the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from among the alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines such as cocobetaine, the alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

[0153] When present, the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) may preferably range from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0154] Preferably, the total content of the amphoteric surfactant(s) selected from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, compounds of formula (3) and compounds of formula (4), in the composition according to the invention, can range from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better from 1 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0155] Preferably, the total content of the amphoteric surfactant(s) selected from, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C8-C20)betaines and alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, in the composition according to the invention, can range from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better from 1 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Other ingredients

[0156] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents selected from C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; and mixtures thereof.

[0157] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises water in a total content of between 65 and 98% by weight, preferably between 70 and 95% by weight, preferably between 75 and 92% by weight, even better between 80 and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0158] The pH of the composition according to the invention generally varies from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 7, preferably from 4 to 6, and better from 5 to 6.

[0159] The invention further relates to a cosmetic treatment process, preferably for cleaning and / or washing keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers, especially human keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising a step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition as defined above.

[0160] Preferably, a step of rinsing the keratinous materials, for example with water, is implemented after the step of applying the composition according to the invention.

[0161] A drying step of the keratin materials may be provided in the process according to the invention, in particular after the rinsing step, in particular using a heating means such as a hair dryer.

[0162] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention but are not intended to be limiting. In these examples, quantities are expressed in grams of active ingredient (AI) unless otherwise stated. Example 1

[0163] Cosmetic compositions A according to the invention and B comparative are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below.

[0164] [Tables 1] Composition A (invention) B (comparative) Dextran hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.2 - Cationic guar - 0.2 Sodium laureth sulfate 9.2 9.2 Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate 0.8 0.8 Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate 0.3 0.3 Cocamidopropyl betaine 1.1 1.1 Cocobetaine 0.3 0.3 Cocamide MEA 0.8 0.8 Carbomer 0.2 0.2 Hexylene glycol 0.5 0.5 Glycol distearate 1.5 1.5 Sodium chloride 1.2 1.2 Preservatives, perfumes Qs Qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100

[0165] Compositions are obtained that can be used as a rinse-off shampoo for washing hair. A / Evaluation of cosmetic performance

[0166] The cosmetic performance in terms of coating / full feel provided by compositions A and B is evaluated.

[0167] Each of compositions A and B was applied to wet hair strands (5.4 g strands, sensitized SA20), at a rate of 0.6 g of composition per gram of strand. The strands were rinsed without any waiting time. The evaluation on wet hair was then carried out.

[0168] The charged nature of the touch was assessed as follows: the expert takes the lock of hair in his whole hand and slides his hand from root to tip in order to assess the presence of a deposit on the hair: the greater the deposit, the more charged the touch and therefore the less natural it is.

[0169] A score of 0 was assigned to the strands treated with comparative composition B, and a score ranging from -3 to +3, in increments of 0.5, was assigned to the strands treated with composition A. The comparative evaluation was carried out blindly by 3 experts.

[0170] Each entire note corresponds to the following elements:

[0171] + / - 3: large difference

[0172] + / - 2: average difference

[0173] + / - 1: small difference

[0174] 0: equivalent (no difference).

[0175] The note is positive if the touch is more charged, the note is negative if the touch is less charged (more natural).

[0176] The following results are obtained (average of 3 scores):

[0177] [Tables2] Charged touch on wet hair A (invention) B (comparative) Expert 1 -1 0 Expert 2 -1 0 Expert 3 -1 0 Average -1 0

[0178] It is observed that composition A according to the invention leads to hair with a less loaded feel, i.e. to hair with a more natural feel, compared to comparative composition B. B / Evaluation of rinseability performance

[0179] To evaluate rinseability performance, three drops of artificial sebum were applied using a pipette to strands of hair (5.4 g, sensitized SA20) and distributed along the entire length of the strand. The strands were then wetted and towel-dried.

[0180] Then 0.25g of the composition to be tested was applied to the strand. The strand was then rinsed until the sensation to the touch of the strand no longer changed, i.e. when there was no more sebum on the strand.

[0181] The time required to rinse each strand was compared with that obtained with a reference shampoo (Garnier Fructis Aloe Hydrabomb). The shorter the rinsing time, the easier the rinsing.

[0182] Each expert (3 experts) assigned a score corresponding to rinsing times ranging from -3 to 3, in increments of 0.5, to the wicks to be evaluated, according to the same rating scale as described above. A score of 0 was assigned to the reference composition.

[0183] The score is positive if the rinsing time is shorter, the score is negative if the rinsing time is longer.

[0184] The following results are obtained (average of 3 scores):

[0185] [Tables3] Rinsability A (invention) B (comparative) Reference Expert 1 +1 -1.5 0 Expert 2 +1.5 -2 0 Expert 3 +2 -2 0 Average +1.5 -1.8 0 Standard deviation 0.5 0.3 0

[0186] It is observed that composition A according to the invention is much easier to rinse than the comparative composition and the reference composition.

[0187] Hair washed with the composition according to the invention also exhibits better cosmetic properties, in particular a less loaded feel, which leads to a more natural feel, compared to that treated with comparative composition B.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition comprising: (i) one or more cationic dextran polymers, and (ii) one or more anionic surfactants of formula (I): RXL-(Y)y Ay+ in which: - R is an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms, optionally comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, in particular from 1 to 10, or even from 1 to 4 ethylene oxide motifs; - X is a divalent radical selected from -OC(O)- and -C(O)-O-, - L is a divalent or trivalent hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, better from 1 to 3 carbon atoms; y = 1 when L is divalent and y = 2 when L is trivalent; - Y, which can be the same or different when y=2, is chosen from the sulfonate group SO3 and the carboxylate group COO, and - A+ or A++ is a cosmetically acceptable counter-ion.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the cationic dextran polymer bears one or more quaternary ammonium cationic functions, advantageously of the type -OX-N+R1R2R3, A, wherein: O represents a pendant oxygen atom of the dextran polymer, X is a divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of the alkylene type, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group, RI, R2, R3, identical or different, are hydrocarbon radicals, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably methyl; and A is a cosmetically acceptable counterion;in particular of the type -OX-N+(CH3)3, A- in which: O represents an oxygen atom pendant to the dextran polymer, X is a divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of the alkylene type, linear or branched, comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group, and A is a halide, in particular a chloride.;

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic dextran polymer is represented by the following formula:

3. OR 1 i § 0™----QC | R<>X*****^^ CR [ 1 i OR with R, independently of each other, representing H or a radical -CH2CH(OH)CH2N+(CH3)3 Cl, at least one of the radicals R being different from H.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic dextran polymer bears the INCI name: DEXTRAN HYDROXYPRO-PYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the cationic dextran polymer(s) in a total content of 0.01 to 10% by weight, better 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better 0.1 to 3% by weight, or even 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more anionic surfactants of formula (I) in which: - X is -OC(O)-, L is a methylene group and Y- is a sulfonate group SO3-; - X is -OC(O)-, L is a trivalent group comprising 2 to 3 carbon atoms, in particular 2 carbon atoms; y=2 and one of the Y- is a sulfonate group, the other Y is a carboxylate group; or - X is -C(O)-O-, L is a divalent (alkylene) group comprising 2 to 3 carbon atoms, in particular -CH2-CH2- or -CH2-CH(CH3)-; and Y is a sulfonate group.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the anionic surfactant(s) of formula (I) are selected from, alone or in mixture: - alkylsulfoacetates and their salts, alkyl groups having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; - acyl isethionates and their salts, acyl groups having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; - acyl methylisethionates and their salts, acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; - alkylsulfosuccinates and their salts, alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;- alkyl ether sulfosuccinates and their salts, alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; and comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, in particular from 1 to 10, or even from 1 to 4 ethylene oxide motifs; preferably in the form of salts, in particular selected from the salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohols.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) of formula (I) ranges from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.8 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more anionic sulfate surfactants, in particular selected from, alone or in mixtures, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ethers sulfates, alkylamido ethers sulfates, alkylaryl polyethers sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 24, or even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl; these compounds can be (poly)oxyalkylated, in particular (poly)oxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 1 to 20, or even from 1 to 10, ethylene oxide motifs.

10. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, in particular selected from, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, compounds of formula (3) and compounds of formula (4): Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO , M+ , X (3) wherein: - Ra represents a C30 C10 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;- M+ represents a cationic counterion from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine, and - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as one chosen from among halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or else M+ and X are absent; Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (4) in which: - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX'; - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2; - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2 COOH, CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom; - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z'; - Z' represents a cationic counterion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine;- Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in; hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially in Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group; best chosen from alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising water, in particular in a total content of between 65 and 98% by weight, preferably between 70 and 95% by weight, preferably between 75 and 92% by weight, even better between 80 and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. A cosmetic treatment process, preferably for cleaning and / or washing keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers, especially human keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11.

13. A method according to claim 12, comprising a step of rinsing the keratin materials, for example with water, after the step of applying the composition.

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