SOLID COMPOSITION COMPRISING ESTER OILS, VEGETABLE WAXES, SOLID HYDROCARBON COMPOUNDS OTHER THAN WAXES, CELLULOSE PARTICLES AND THE PROCESS FOR ITS IMPLEMENTATION

Abstract

Title: SOLID COMPOSITION COMPRISING ESTER OILS, VEGETABLE WAXES, SOLID HYDROCARBON COMPOUNDS OTHER THAN WAXES, CELLULOSE PARTICLES AND METHOD FOR IMPLEMENTING IT The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition comprising: * 2 to 10% by weight, in a filler selected from cellulose particles; * at least one first polar hydrocarbon ester oil; * optionally at least one second oil selected from linear nonpolar hydrocarbon oils in the C15-C30 range, or branched in the C17-C30 range, and preferably squalane; * at least one mixture of polar hydrocarbon waxes comprising sunflower wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil and at least one third polar hydrocarbon wax, different from sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil; the total wax content being less than 20% by weight;* at least one solid hydrocarbon compound at 20°C, other than waxes, selected from vegetable butters or butters derived from vegetable oils, polyesters obtained at least from a dimer of mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acids; the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the polyester resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched C6-C10 dicarboxylic acid and an ester of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, possibly hydroxylated, linear or branched, in C6-C20; as well as mixtures thereof;* optionally at least one additional oil, selected from polar or nonpolar hydrocarbon oils other than the first and second oils, with a content not exceeding 5% by weight. It also relates to a makeup and / or lip care process, consisting of applying said composition.

Description

Title of the invention: SOLID COMPOSITION COMPRISING ESTER OILS, VEGETABLE WAXES, SOLID HYDROCARBON COMPOUNDS DIFFERENT FROM WAXES, CELLULOSE PARTICLES AND THE PROCESS OF IMPLEMENTING THEM

[0001] The present invention relates to solid compositions comprising at least one ester-type hydrocarbon oil, at least one mixture of waxes comprising sunflower wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil and a third different polar hydrocarbon wax, at least one solid ester-type compound, different from the waxes, and at least one cellulose-based particulate filler as well as a method for implementing it.

[0002] The present invention relates to solid compositions intended for application to human keratinous materials, more particularly the skin and / or lips, and preferably the lips. These compositions are advantageously intended for the makeup and / or care of said keratinous materials.

[0003] Cosmetic compositions intended for application, particularly to the lips, especially for care and / or makeup, have been known for a very long time and come in a wide variety of forms. These compositions can range from fluid, more or less viscous formulations, such as oils and glosses, to solid compositions in the form of a stick, with or without support, pencil-like compositions, or compositions packaged in jars.

[0004] The compositions may also be anhydrous or be in the form of emulsions, direct (oil-in-water) or inverse (water-in-oil).

[0005] The present invention relates more particularly to compositions in the form of a stick, preferably comprising little or no water.

[0006] Anhydrous compositions, liquid or solid, dedicated in particular to makeup and / or lip care, with a rather glossy result, are generally obtained from mixtures comprising relatively high levels of non-volatile oils, often hydrocarbons or silicones, as well as coloring materials such as mother-of-pearl and / or pigments.

[0007] In the case of solid compositions, structuring agents, such as nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes like polyethylene waxes or Fischer-Tropsch waxes, are generally added to the aforementioned mixtures. These compounds stiffen the The compositions must be formulated into sticks that retain their shape during storage and do not break during application, without compromising their performance. The compositions must remain flexible enough to allow for easy application and the deposition of an appropriate amount of product onto keratinous materials, particularly the lips.

[0008] In recent years, a new trend has clearly emerged among consumers who are turning, albeit less exclusively, to the performance of makeup formulations. Indeed, increasing attention is being paid to the ingredients used, and in particular to their natural character.

[0009] This is why there is an increasing trend towards avoiding the use of raw materials traditionally employed until now, such as those derived from petroleum or silicones, without compromising the performance of the compositions. These compositions must, among other characteristics, provide comfortable, non-sticky deposits and maintain sufficient gloss over time.

[0010] Thus, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is, products whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern in order to help meet global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients that can address these environmental challenges.

[0011] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds.

[0012] The present invention falls within this trend and therefore relates more particularly to solid compositions, especially for makeup and / or the care of human keratinous materials, particularly lips, promoting the use of compounds of natural origin, particularly plant-based or of plant origin. Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention advantageously allow for limiting the presence, or even eliminating, of liquid or solid ingredients derived from petroleum chemistry, or silicone ingredients.

[0013] One of the difficulties encountered with ingredients of natural origin is that, due in part to their affinity for one another, the compositions are not always properly structured. Thus, compositions in the form of sticks may be either too soft or too hard, preventing satisfactory application of the composition and / or potentially causing the stick to break.

[0014] The objectives of the present invention are therefore to provide solid cosmetic compositions, particularly in stick form, whose content of ingredients derived from the petroleum industry, such as oils or solid compounds, would be limited or, advantageously, zero, and which exhibit the mechanical properties required for easy, regular, and appropriate application of the composition, without causing breakage of the stick. Furthermore, the resulting deposit must remain comfortable, with little or no stickiness, while still being sufficiently glossy.

[0015] These and other objectives are achieved by the present invention, which therefore relates to solid cosmetic compositions comprising: * 2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in a filler chosen from among the cellulose particles; * at least one first polar hydrocarbon ester oil; * possibly at least one second oil chosen from among the linear nonpolar hydrocarbon oils comprising 15 to 30 carbon atoms, or branched oils comprising 17 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably squalane; * at least one mixture of polar hydrocarbon waxes comprising sunflower wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil and at least one third polar hydrocarbon wax, different from sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil; the total wax content being less than 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; * at least one solid hydrocarbon compound at 20°C, different from the aforementioned waxes, chosen from vegetable butters or butters derived from vegetable oils, polyesters obtained at least from a dimer of a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid; the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms; polyesters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched C6-C1O dicarboxylic acid and an ester of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, possibly hydroxylated, linear or branched, in C6-C2O; as well as mixtures thereof, * possibly at least one additional oil, chosen from polar or non-polar hydrocarbon oils, different from the first and second oils, silicone oils, at a content not exceeding 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] It also relates to a makeup and / or care process, in which the previously defined composition is applied to human keratinous materials, in particular to the skin and / or lips, and preferably to the lips.

[0017] The present invention makes it possible to obtain a stable, solid composition, more particularly in stick form, which is very easily applied to human keratinous materials, especially the lips, in a precise, homogeneous, and sufficiently glossy deposit. The resulting deposit also offers comfort particularly remarkable, providing a "cushion" effect, with a feeling of lip protection and hydration.

[0018] It was found, quite surprisingly, that despite a relatively low wax content, the composition according to the invention exhibits a very satisfactory, even relatively high, hardness, considering this fact. The stick is thus advantageously resistant to application. It was further found that, despite this hardness, the composition, when applied to keratinous materials, particularly the lips, develops a very surprising "melting" character, which one would have expected to experience with a much softer composition than that according to the invention.

[0019] Another surprising characteristic is that despite its very "melting" texture upon application, the amount deposited is not excessive. The deposit is slightly sticky or not sticky at all, sufficiently glossy, very comfortable, and without an oily feeling.

[0020] These and other advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the description and examples that follow.

[0021] Note that in the rest of the description, unless otherwise indicated, the bounds indicated for a domain are included in that domain.

[0022] The expressions "at least one" and "several" are used interchangeably.

[0023] In addition, the sum of the quantities of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Protocol for measuring hardness

[0024] The hardness of the composition is measured according to the following protocol: The stick is kept at 20°C for 16 hours before the hardness measurement. Hardness is measured at 20°C using the "butter wire" method, which involves cutting a stick of the product, preferably cylindrical (11.6 mm diameter), transversely with a rigid tungsten wire 0.25 mm in diameter, moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm / min. Measurements are taken at least 10 mm from the sample holder. The hardness of the samples, expressed in grams, is measured, for example, using a static fragility tester (breakmeter - Industrial Electronics). The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged. The hardness is the average of the three values ​​read using the equipment mentioned above.

[0025] According to this measurement method, the composition according to the invention preferably has a hardness at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure of between 80 and 150 g, more particularly 80 to 120 g.

[0026] The value can also be converted to Nm1 according to the following calculation: (Y x 103 x 9.8) / L; Y representing the hardness value in grams; L representing the highest dimension through which the wire passes - in the case of a cylindrical rod, L is equal to the diameter (in meters). Gloss measurement protocol

[0027] The brightness of the composition is measured according to the following protocol: To perform the measurement, the sample to be tested is heated to a temperature sufficient to allow it to spread. More specifically, this temperature is around 98°C. The composition is then spread onto a Byko Chart 2A® or Penopac IA® type contrast card from BYK, in the form of a film, using an automatic film spreader of the Byko-Drive XL® type from BYK equipped with a film spreading bar such as a variable slit height square 5353® from BYK, set for a slit height of 50.8pm.

[0028] The contrast card is placed on the applicator platform, and the bar with the 50.8 µm slot on the contrast card is positioned over the area to be filled in. Approximately 2 g of product is deposited directly in front of the bar. The automatic applicator is then started, and the bar is moved to ensure the deposition of a uniform film of the desired thickness.

[0029] The film is left to dry at 25°C for 15 minutes.

[0030] The gloss of the film applied to the black areas of the contrast card is measured with an angle of incidence of 60°; this is expressed in gloss units (Gloss Units).

[0031] The gloss unit is a measurement scale of a glossmeter (example: Rhopoint IQ-S® from Konica Minolta), established from a reference standard in highly polished black glass, with a defined refractive index and specular reflectance of 100 gloss units at a given angle, with the minimum point established at 0 for a perfectly matte surface.

[0032] The measurement can be repeated over time to evaluate the maintenance of the gloss.

[0033] The composition is considered brilliant within the meaning of the invention, when the gloss value is at least 5, more particularly at least 6, and preferably at least 7.5. According to one embodiment of the invention, the gloss value is at most 20, more particularly at most 15. CELLULOSE PARTICLES

[0034] The composition according to the invention comprises from 2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a filler selected from cellulose particles.

[0035] The cellulose particles usable according to the invention are preferably spherical (cellulose beads).

[0036] For the purposes of this invention, spherical particles are defined as solid or porous particles, whose surface may or may not be smooth, having an average circularity parameter of at least 0.95. The circularity parameter is defined as the ratio of the circumference of a disk having the same area as the particle to the perimeter of the particle. A value of 1 characterizes perfectly spherical particles.

[0037] The "average circularity" can be determined by an image analysis method. In particular, the "average circularity" can be an arithmetic mean of circularity obtained by image analysis of a scanning electron microscope (SEM) image of not less than 2000 particles observed at a magnification of 1000 by detection of secondary electrons using a scanning electron microscope (SEM).

[0038] The "circularity" of each particle is a value determined by the following formula: C = 4irS / L², where C represents a circularity, S represents an area (projected area) of the particle in the image, and L represents a length of a periphery (perimeter) of the particle in the image. As the average circularity approaches 1, the shape of each particle becomes more spherical.

[0039] They preferably have an average size (D(50) in volume) less than or equal to 40 pm, preferably ranging from 1 to 20 pm, even more preferably from 2 to 15 pm.

[0040] Particle sizes can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the Malvem MasterSizer 2000. The data are processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, accurate for isotropic particles, allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0041] Among the cellulose particles that can be used according to the invention, we can mention in particular those sold by the company Daito under the brand name Cellulobeads® such as Cellulobeads USF®, Cellulobeads USF-X®, Cellulobeads D-5®, Cellulobeads D-10®, Cellulobeads D-30®.

[0042] Preferably, the cellulose particle content varies from 3 to 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. FIRST OIL

[0043] The composition according to the invention comprises at least a first non-volatile, polar hydrocarbon ester oil.

[0044] By "non-volatile oil" is meant fatty compounds, insoluble in water, liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa), whose vapor pressure at 20°C is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than or equal to 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD 104 standard).

[0045] By "polar hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and also comprising at least one oxygen atom, and possibly nitrogen. It may contain one or more alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine, and / or amide groups. Such oils are therefore distinct from silicone oils since they are devoid of silicon atoms.

[0046] A polar hydrocarbon ester oil in the sense of the invention, comprises, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one ester function (-C(=O)-O-).

[0047] More particularly, the first oil is chosen from among non-volatile hydrocarbon ester oils comprising one or more ester functions, possibly hydroxylated, and comprising at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, or aromatic, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0048] Preferably, the first oil is chosen from: - vegetable oils; - ester oils, different from vegetable oils, possibly hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, comprising at least one hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated or aromatic, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms; polyesters resulting from the esterification of a polyol, at least one monocarboxylic acid and at least one dicarboxylic acid; - liquid polyesters resulting from the reaction of a dimer of mono- or polyunsaturated acid, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms; - as well as their mixtures.

[0049] Suitable ester oils include vegetable oils; ester oils other than vegetable oils, selected from mono- and di-esters, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, possibly hydroxylated, comprising at least 12 carbon atoms and advantageously from 12 to 80 carbon atoms; triesters, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, possibly hydroxylated, comprising up to 80 carbon atoms; tetraesters, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, possibly hydroxylated, comprising from 35 to 80 carbon atoms; polyesters obtained from the esterification of a polyol, at least one monocarboxylic acid and at least one dicarboxylic acid; liquid polyesters resulting from the reaction of fatty acid dimers, mono- or polyunsaturated, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, as well as their mixtures.

[0050] Examples of vegetable oils include castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, rosa canina oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, kaya oil, marula oil, camelina oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, corn germ oil, bran oil rice, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, hazelnut oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, meadowfoam oil, black cumin oil,Buriti oil, sandalwood oil, babassu oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0051] Preferably, the vegetable oil may be chosen from castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, macadamia oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, maize germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, safflower oil, meadowfoam oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0052] Among the monoesters or diesters, one can cite those obtained from monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic fatty acid, saturated or unsaturated, in particular comprising from 4 to 28, preferably from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, possibly comprising at least one free hydroxyl, on the one hand, and from monoalcohol or polyol, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 2 to 26, in particular from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, and 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, on the other hand; the number of carbon atoms being at least 12, preferably at least 16, as well as mixtures thereof. Examples include octyl-2-dodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isostearyl heptanoate, cetostearyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, and myristate of 2-Octyldodecyl, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, octyl stearate, octyl-2 stearate dodecyl, glycerin stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl behenate, isocetyl stearate, mixtures of esters of capric acid, caprylic acid and coconut alcohol (Ci2-Ci8 alcohols), octyl-2 dodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, diisostearyl adipate, or mixtures thereof.

[0053] One can also mention mono- and diesters, possibly hydroxylated, of a mono- or polycarboxylic acid in C2-C8 and of a C2-C8 alcohol. In particular, suitable for the implementation of the invention are monoesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic acid and a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated; and diesters of a C2-C8 dicarboxylic acid and a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated; such as diisopropyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dibutyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) succinate.

[0054] We can also mention mono- and di- esters of monocarboxylic acid, saturated or unsaturated, in particular comprising from 4 to 28 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, and of diols, in particular glycols, especially C2-C5, of glycerol or polyglycerol (preferably 2 to 3 moles of glycerol). Examples include propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monoricinoleate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, ethylene glycol dibenzoate, diethylene glycol dibenzoate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0055] Suitable for the invention are triesters obtained from mono- or polycarboxylic acids, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated, or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated, in C2-C40, preferably in C4-C40 and from polyols or monoalcohols in C2-C40, preferably in C3-C40. Examples include triacetin, as well as triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, in C4-C36, more particularly in C8-C20, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, in particular, saturated triglycerides such as Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, for example such as the products marketed under the DUB MCT range by the company Stéarinerie Dubois, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, triglycerides of acid in C[8 36 such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 marketed by Stéarineries Dubois), glyceryl triisostearate. We can also mention glycerol or polyglycerol triesters (preferably 2 or 3 moles of glycerol) and monocarboxylic acids such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate), glyceryl-2 tridecyl tetradecanoate. As an example, we can also mention triesters, of an acid comprising three carboxylic functions, in C2-C9, possibly hydroxylated, and of a monoalcohol in C2-C20. We can cite the esters of citric acid such as triethyl citrate, trioctyl citrate, tributyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, as well as tridecyl trimellitate, and their mixtures.

[0056] Regarding tetraesters, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, possibly hydroxylated, comprising in particular 35 to 80 carbon atoms, we can mention tetraesters of pentaerythritol or of polyglycerol and a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetradecanoate, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0057] Polyesters obtained by esterifying a polyol, at least one monocarboxylic acid, and at least one dicarboxylic acid, as described in particular in US patent 7317068, are also suitable. The polyol more particularly comprises 2 to 20 carbon atoms and 2 to 8 hydroxyl groups, preferably pentaerythritol. More particularly, the monocarboxylic acid comprises 4 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably stearic, isostearic, caprylic, capric acids, or combinations thereof. As for the dicarboxylic acid, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated, or aromatic, it more particularly comprises 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably adipic acid.Examples include the product with the INCI name: Pentaerythrityl Isostearate / Caprate / Caprylate / Adipate, marketed notably under the name Supermol® L by the company Croda, and the product with the INCI name: Pentaerythrityl Adipate / Caprate / Caprylate / Heptanoate marketed under the name Lexfeel® 700 EX-LO-MB by the company Inolex.

[0058] Liquid polyesters resulting from the reaction of a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms. The carboxylic acid dimer is in particular derived from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, notably at C16 to C22, and more particularly at C8, such as linoleic acid. Suitable polyesters include, alone or in mixtures: - polyesters obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimers and diols such as those described in patent application FR 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol, or 1,3-propanediol. to mention in particular the Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer (INCI name) marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast® 14436H, the Dilinoleic Acid / Propanediol Copolymer (INCI name) marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast® Green 3000; - copolymers with INCI name Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate / Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, as marketed under the name Hailucent® ISDA by the company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo;

[0059] - polyesters resulting from the reaction of a mono- or polyunsaturated acid dimer, The fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms with at least one alcohol dimer (diol dimer), preferably saturated, in which the alcohol comprises 16 to 22 carbon atoms. Examples include compounds with the INCI name Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, marketed by Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan® DD-DA5 and DD-DA7.

[0060] Preferably, the polar hydrocarbon oil(s) are chosen from: - vegetable oils, in particular castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, macadamia oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, maize germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, safflower oil, meadowfoam oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, as well as mixtures thereof; - linear or branched triesters, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprising up to 80 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, in C4-C36, more particularly in C8-C2o, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, such as Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (INCI name); triesters of glycerol or polyglycerol and monocarboxylic acids such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate: INCI name); - tetraesters comprising in particular 35 to 80 carbon atoms, such as pentaerythrityl tetraesters or polyglycerol and monocarboxylic acid tetraesters, for example such as tetraisostearate pentaerythrityl, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate; - polyesters resulting from the reaction of a mono- or polyunsaturated acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms with at least one alcohol dimer (diol dimer), preferably saturated, of which the alcohol comprises 16 to 22 carbon atoms, such as the compounds with INCI name Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate; - their mixtures.

[0061] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the content of first oil(s) represents from 10 to 60% by weight, preferably from 15 to 55% by weight, preferably from 20 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. SECOND OIL

[0062] The composition according to the invention may optionally include at least one second oil selected from linear nonpolar hydrocarbon oils comprising 15 to 30 carbon atoms, or branched oils comprising 17 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably squalane.

[0063] By "nonpolar hydrocarbon oil" is meant hydrocarbon compounds liquid at 20°C comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure.

[0064] The squalane usable in the composition according to the invention is preferably of vegetable origin, and may come in particular from olives, or even from sugar cane.

[0065] Squalane is marketed, among others, by the company Amyris under the name Neossance Squalane, by the company Biosynthis under the name Squalive.

[0066] Nonpolar hydrocarbon oils such as linear, saturated hydrocarbon mixtures with the following INCI names could also be suitable: C15-19 Alkane (INCI name), C18-21 Alkane (INCI name), C21-28 Alkane (INCI name).

[0067] Preferably, the composition includes squalane as a second oil.

[0068] Advantageously, when the composition includes it, the content of the second oil represents 10 to 30% by weight, preferably 12 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0069] Preferably, if the composition includes squalane as a second oil, the content of a second nonpolar hydrocarbon oil other than squalane advantageously represents less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more particularly less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably the composition does not include any nonpolar hydrocarbon oil(s) other than squalane. ADDITIONAL OILS

[0070] The composition according to the present invention may optionally include at least one additional oil, different from the first and second oil.

[0071] The additional oil(s) may be more particularly chosen from among polar or non-polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oils, or from among silicone oils non-volatile, including hydrocarbon or silicone volatile oils, as well as their mixtures.

[0072] By "siliconized oil" is meant an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups. Additional non-volatile oils

[0073] According to a first variant, the additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil can be chosen from fatty alcohols in the form Ci0-C26, preferably monohydroxylated; from ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, identical or not, the R, R' groups represent a hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, preferably in C3-Ci6; and mixtures thereof.

[0074] Alcohols are more particularly alcohols comprising a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, comprising 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably comprising 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms. They are preferably monohydroxylated.

[0075] Preferably, the said alcohol(s) are chosen from lauric alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof, and preferably octyldodecanol.

[0076] With regard to ethers of formula ROR' and carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', suitable in particular are dicaprylyl ether, dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C14-15 dialkyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof.

[0077] If the composition includes it, then the additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil is chosen from fatty alcohols, preferably octyldodecanol, or dicaprylyl ether, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0078] If the composition includes them, the content of additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil(s) is less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, and even more advantageously less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition is free of them.

[0079] According to a second variant, the additional oil may optionally be chosen from non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils, different from the second oil, alone or in mixtures.

[0080] These oils can be of various origins, in particular from the petrochemical industry.

[0081] Examples of additional non-polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oil include paraffin oil, polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] Advantageously, if the composition includes them, the content of additional non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s) is less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, and more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition is free of them.

[0083] According to a third variant, the additional oil can be chosen from non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils, or phenylated oils comprising or not at least one dimethicone fragment.

[0084] The term “phenylated” specifies that said oil includes in its structure at least one phenyl radical.

[0085] The term “dimethicone fragment” refers to a divalent siloxane group in which the silicon atom bears two methyl radicals, this group not being located at one or both ends of the molecule. It can be represented by the following formula: -(Si(CH3)2-O)-.

[0086] Preferably, the silicones do not contain C2-C3 alkylene oxide group(s) or glycerol group(s).

[0087] Among the non-volatile non-phenylated silicones, we can mention polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: Dimethicone), alkyldimethicones comprising at least one alkyl group in C2-C24, as well as their mixtures.

[0088] Among the non-volatile phenyl silicones comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, the following INCI name compounds may be cited: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane and their mixtures.

[0089] With regard to phenylated silicone non-volatile oils, devoid of phenylemethicone fragment(s), the following INCI names may be cited: Phenyltrimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane, alone or in mixtures.

[0090] More specifically, if the composition includes them, the content of non-volatile silicone oil(s) is less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition is free of them. Additional volatile oils

[0091] By "volatile oil" is meant an oil (therefore liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure), having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular going to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly going to 1300 Pa.

[0092] According to a first variant, the additional oil can be chosen from among volatile nonpolar hydrocarbon oils.

[0093] It should be noted that such oils may come from the petroleum-related industry (petrochemical industry) or be of vegetable origin.

[0094] Examples of volatile nonpolar hydrocarbon oils include, in particular: - branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane, isohexadecane; - linear alkanes in C8-C14, for example such as the mixture of n-decane (CIO) and n-dodecane (C12) sold by Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight silk, the n-dodecane (C12) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (Cil) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 of the Cognis Company and their mixtures; - and their mixtures.

[0095] Advantageously, if the composition includes them, the content of additional volatile nonpolar hydrocarbon oil(s) is less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight, and even more preferably the composition does not include any volatile nonpolar hydrocarbon oil(s).

[0096] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the content of nonpolar hydrocarbon oil(s), volatile or non-volatile, from the petrochemical industry, is less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition is free of it.

[0097] According to a second variant, the additional oil can be chosen from among the silicone volatile oils.

[0098] By way of examples, one may mention in particular dimethicone of viscosity of less than 5cSt (5 x 103 mm2 / s, measured in particular according to the ASTM D-445 standard), octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0099] More particularly, if the composition includes them, the content of additional volatile silicone oil(s) is less than or equal to 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably the composition does not include any volatile silicone oil(s).

[0100] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention contains a content of less than or equal to 5% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 2% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of additional oil(s), volatile or non-volatile, silicone-based or hydrocarbon-based. Preferably, the composition is free of such oil(s). WAXES

[0101] The composition according to the invention further comprises a mixture of waxes including sunflower wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil and at least one additional polar hydrocarbon wax, different from the first two; the total wax content being less than 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0102] Preferably, the total wax content is less than or equal to 15% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0103] According to a particular embodiment, the total wax content is at least 7% by weight, preferably at least 9% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0104] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention does not include nonpolar hydrocarbon wax, such as polyethylene wax, Fischer Tropsch wax, or mixtures thereof, or does not include such wax in limited quantities, for example less than 1% by weight, more particularly less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Sunflower wax

[0105] Sunflower wax (INCI name: HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX) is obtained by cooling (winterizing) sunflower seed oil, filtering, and finally refining. It is notably marketed by the company Koster Keunen.

[0106] It is in the form of a solid with a melting point between 74 and 77°C. It is mainly composed of saturated monoesters comprising 42 to 62 carbon atoms.

[0107] More particularly, the composition according to the invention has a sunflower wax content of between 1.5 and 8% by weight, in particular between 1.8 and 8% by weight, preferably between 2 and 7% by weight, or even between 2 and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrogenated jojoba oil

[0108] Hydrogenated jojoba oil, with the INCI name Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil, is more particularly obtained by catalytic and total hydrogenation of jojoba oil obtained from the seeds of Simmondsia Chinensis. Total hydrogenation means obtaining a compound with an iodine value of less than 2.

[0109] Hydrogenated jojoba oil is in the form of a solid whose melting temperature is between 67 and 72°C, more particularly from 68 to 71°C.

[0110] Hydrogenated jojoba oil consists mainly of saturated monoesters, comprising 36 to 48 carbon atoms.

[0111] It is notably marketed by the company Vantage Speciality Chemicals under the trade name Desert Whale Jojoba Wax Flakes.

[0112] More specifically, the content of hydrogenated jojoba oil varies from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional waxes

[0113] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional polar hydrocarbon wax, different from sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil.

[0114] More particularly, in the sense of the invention, it is recalled that a wax is in general, a lipophilic compound solid at room temperature (20°C), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting temperature in particular greater than or equal to 45°C and less than or equal to 120°C, more particularly less than or equal to 90°C.

[0115] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature (or melting point) corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999.

[0116] The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC 2000" by TA Instruments with the "TA Universal Analysis" software.

[0117] The measurement protocol is as follows: A 5 mg sample of wax is placed in a crucible and subjected to a first temperature increase from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the melting point of the wax is measured, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve. Additional polar wax

[0118] By "polar hydrocarbon wax" is meant a wax formed essentially, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one oxygen atom, possibly nitrogen. These compounds therefore do not contain silicon atoms.

[0119] More particularly, the additional polar hydrocarbon wax, other than hydrogenated jojoba oil and sunflower wax, is selected from hydrocarbon waxes of the ester wax type, of the alcohol wax type, or mixtures thereof, and preferably at least from ester waxes.

[0120] According to the invention, "ester wax" means a hydrocarbon wax comprising at least one ester function (-OC(=O)-). Ester waxes may also be hydroxylated.

[0121] By "alcohol wax" according to the invention, we mean a hydrocarbon wax not comprising an ester function (therefore different from ester waxes), and comprising at least one hydroxyl function (-OH).

[0122] Among the hydrocarbon ester polar waxes that can be used within the scope of the present invention, the following may be mentioned, alone or in mixtures:

[0123] (i) Waxes of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri and R2 represent chains linear, branched or cyclic aliphatics with a number of atoms ranging from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen, and whose melting temperature ranges from 45 to 120°C, preferably from 45 to 100°C. In particular, an alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate in the C2O-C4O group (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can be used as an ester wax, alone or in a mixture, or an alkyl stearate in the C2O-C4O group. Such waxes are notably sold under the names KESTER WAX® K 82 P, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®, KESTER WAX® K 80 P, or KESTER WAX® K82H by the company KOSTER KEUNEN. Mixtures of carboxylic acid esters in the Ci4-Ci8 group and alcohols can also be used, such as the products Cetyl Ester Wax 814 from KOSTER KEUNEN, SP Crodamol MS MB AL, Crodamol MS PA from CRODA, and Miraceti from LASERSON.

[0124] ii) Diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), wherein R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group and may or may not contain one or several unsaturations. Preferably, the aliphatic group in C4-C30 is linear and unsaturated.

[0125] iii) Waxes of animal or vegetable origin, other than sunflower wax. Examples of suitable waxes include beeswax, lanolin wax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, refined or unrefined, and mixtures thereof.

[0126] iv) Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, other than hydrogenated jojoba oil, or by hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of vegetable origin (such as lauric, cetyl, stearyl, myristyl, behenyl alcohols) and vegetable oil, such as olive oil, castor oil. We can cite in particular waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oils having in particular fatty chains, linear or branched, in C8-C32, for example such as hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated coconut oil. As examples of waxes resulting from the hydrogenation of esters obtained from vegetable-derived C6-C22 fatty alcohols and vegetable oil, we can also mention the following INCI-named waxes: Hydrogenated Olive Oil Lauryl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Myristyl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Cetyl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters, Hydrogenated Cetyl Castor Esters, Hydrogenated Stearyl Castor Esters, Hydrogenated Behenyl Castor Esters. Such waxes are marketed under the names Phytowax® Olive 12 L44, Phytowax® Olive 14 L 48, Phytowax® Olive 16 L 55, Phytowax® Olive 18 L 57, Phytowax® Castor 16 L 64, Phytowax® Castor 18 L 69, and Phytowax® Castor 22 L 73 by the company Sophim. These waxes are described in application FR2792190.

[0127] (v) polyoxyalkylated or polyglycerolated waxes, natural or synthetic, of animal or vegetable origin; preferably polyoxyethylated beeswaxes, such as PEG-6 beeswax, PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylated carnauba waxes, such as PEG-12 carnauba; lanolin waxes, hydrogenated or not, polyoxyethened or polyoxypropylened, such as PEG-30 lanolin, PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerolated beeswaxes, in particular polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, esters from the reaction of vegetable waxes Acacia Decurrens Flower wax, Jojoba Esters, Sunflower Seed Wax and Polyglyceryl-3, and mixtures thereof.

[0128] vi) Waxes corresponding to partial or total esters, preferably total, of a saturated Ci6-C30 carboxylic acid, optionally hydroxylated, with glycerol, such as glyceryl tristearate (INCI name: Tristearin), glyceryl trihydroxystearate (INCI name: Trihydroxystearin), glyceryl tribehenate (INCI name: Tribehenin), alone or in mixture;

[0129] vii) Their mixtures.

[0130] Among the alcohol waxes, we can mention fatty alcohols, solid at 20°C, saturated or unsaturated, in C12-C24, preferably in C14-C20, preferably in C14-C18, for example alcohols chosen from cetearyl alcohol (C16 / C18 50 / 50), stearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, alcohols in C16-C22, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0131] Preferably, the additional polar hydrocarbon wax is chosen from ester waxes, in particular: * waxes of animal or vegetable origin, different from sunflower wax; * waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, other than hydrogenated jojoba oil, or by hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of vegetable origin and vegetable oil; * polyoxyalkylated or polyglycerolated waxes, natural or synthetic, of animal or vegetable origin, and their mixtures; * as well as their mixtures.

[0132] More particularly, the additional hydrocarbon polar wax(s) are selected from beeswax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, refined or unrefined, and mixtures thereof; from hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, as well as waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor or olive oil, and mixtures thereof.According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the additional wax(s) are chosen from among candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Myristyl Esters, and mixtures thereof.

[0133] Preferably, polyoxyalkylated or polyglycerolated waxes, natural or synthetic, of animal or vegetable origin, are chosen from polyglycerolated beeswaxes, in particular polyglyceryl-3 Beewax, esters from the reaction of vegetable waxes Acacia Decurrens Flower wax, Jojoba Esters, Sunflower Seed Wax and Polyglyceryl-3, and their mixtures.

[0134] Preferably, the composition comprises, as additional polar wax(s), at least one wax, other than hydrogenated jojoba oil and sunflower wax, selected from ester waxes, in particular from vegetable waxes, notably candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, and mixtures thereof; from natural or synthetic polyglycerol waxes of animal or vegetable origin, notably polyglyceryl-3 Beewax, esters from the reaction of vegetable waxes Acacia Decurrens Flower wax, Jojoba Esters, Sunflower Seed Wax and Polyglyceryl-3, and mixtures thereof.

[0135] More particularly, the content of additional polar wax(s) varies from 3 to 9% by weight, preferably from 3.5 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0136] SOLID HYDROCARBONATE COMPOUNDS OTHER THAN WAXES

[0137] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid hydrocarbon compound at 20°C, different from the aforementioned waxes, selected from vegetable butters or butters derived from vegetable oils; polyesters obtained at least from a dimer of mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; polyester obtained from the condensation of a linear or branched C6-C10 dicarboxylic acid and an ester of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, in C6-C20; as well as mixtures thereof.

[0138] According to a first embodiment, said solid hydrocarbon compound is selected from vegetable butters, such as, for example, mango butter (INCI name: Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter), such as that marketed under the reference Trivent Mango Butter by Alzo, shea butter (INCI name Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), such as those marketed under the references Lipex 102, Lipex Shea, Lipex Sheasoft by Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuacu butter (INCI name: Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter), for example, marketed under the name Rain Forest 03410 by Beraca Sabara, murumuru butter (INCI name: ) marketed in particular under the reference RAIN FOREST 03710 by Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter (INCI name: Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter), for example, marketed under the reference PPP Cocoa Butter Deodorized by the company Dutch Cocoa,Jojoba butter (INCI name: Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Butter), notably marketed by the company Desert Whale under the name Iso Jojoba 50, as well as their blends.

[0139] Among suitable solid hydrocarbon compounds, mention may be made of butters obtained from vegetable oils, in particular obtained by partial or total hydrogenation of the oil, such as, for example, the compounds with the following INCI names: Hydrogenated Vegetable oil, marketed in particular under the name Akogel by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, under the name Cegesoft® HF 52 by BASF, Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides, notably marketed under the name Softisan 100 by IOI Oleo, partially hydrogenated olive oil, for example, marketed under the reference Beurrolive® by Soliance (INCI name: Hydrogenated Olive Oil), and their mixtures.

[0140] Also suitable are esters from the condensation of a linear or branched dicarboxylic acid, preferably saturated, in C6-C10 and of an ester of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, possibly hydroxylated, linear or branched, preferably saturated, in C6-C20, in particular the diester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of fatty acids in C6-C20 such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, the compound with INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, for example marketed under the reference SOFTISAN 649 by the company IOI Oleo.

[0141] With regard to polyesters obtained at least from a dimer of mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid; the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, examples may be cited:

[0142] * the dimer esters of dilinoleic alcohol and dilinoleic acid whose groups hydroxylateds are esterified by a mixture of phytosterols, behenyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool® G by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate);

[0143] * esters of dilinoleic acid and a mixture of phytosterols, alcohol isostearyl, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool® H or Plandool® S by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate);

[0144] * hydrogenated castor oil esters and dilinoleic acid dimer, such as those sold under the names Risocast®-DA-L or Risocast® DA-H by the company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate).

[0145] Preferably, the solid compound(s) at 20°C, other than waxes, are selected from vegetable butters, butters obtained from vegetable oils, triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, possibly mono- or polyhydroxylated, preferably Ci2-Ci8; polyesters obtained at least from a dimer of mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid; fatty acids comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms; esters resulting from the condensation of a dicarboxylic acid linear or branched C6-C2O and esters of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, C6-C2O; as well as mixtures thereof.

[0146] Advantageously, the solid compound at 20°C, different from the aforementioned waxes, is selected from: * the compounds with the following INCI names: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate; Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate; Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Diinoleate, their mixtures; * vegetable butters such as mango butter, shea butter, cupuacu butter, murumuru butter, cocoa butter, jojoba butter, and mixtures thereof; * compounds with INCI names Hydrogenated Vegetable oil, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides, and their mixtures; * the compound with the INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, * their mixtures; Even more preferably, the solid compound at 20°C, different from waxes, is chosen from the compounds with the following INCI names: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate; Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate; Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Diinoleate, their mixtures; vegetable butters such as mango butter, shea butter, cupuacu butter, murumuru butter, cocoa butter, jojoba butter, their mixtures; their mixtures.

[0147] The solid hydrocarbon compound, other than waxes, may be a pasty compound.

[0148] For the purposes of this invention, "pasty compound" means a lipophilic fatty solid compound with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, comprising, at a temperature of 20-25°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Thus, a pasty compound may have a melting point below 20-25°C.

[0149] The melting point of the pasty fat is determined according to the same principle as that detailed previously for waxes. In the case of a pasty compound, however, the measurement protocol is as follows:

[0150] Note that to determine the melting point of solid compounds other than waxes, the following protocol is used in particular: A 5 mg sample of pasty fat placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. The melting point of said pasty fat is the temperature value corresponding to the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature. It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fat at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at room temperature to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat. The enthalpy of fusion of a fat in a paste form is the enthalpy consumed by the fat to change from a solid to a liquid state. A fat in a paste form is said to be in a solid state when its entire mass is in crystalline solid form. A fat in a paste form is said to be in a liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of a fat-based substance is the amount of energy required to change the fat-based substance from a solid to a liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion of the fat-based substance is equal to the energy generated under the curve of the resulting thermogram.

[0151] Advantageously, the content of solid hydrocarbon compound(s) at 20°C other than waxes varies from 20 to 40% by weight, preferably from 25 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. COLORING MATERIALS

[0152] The composition according to the invention may optionally include at least one coloring material.

[0153] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the coloring matter can be chosen from powdered coloring materials, liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof. Powdered coloring materials

[0154] Powdered colouring materials may be selected from pigments, including mineral pigments, organic pigments, mother-of-pearl and mixtures thereof.

[0155] The term "pigments" means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit. These pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

[0156] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0157] By "mineral pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow, or red), or chromium oxides. Manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metallic powders such as aluminum and copper powder can be used. The following mineral pigments can also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, and ZrO2 mixed with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, and ZnS.

[0158] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can go up to 100 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 µm.

[0159] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and up to 100 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 µm.

[0160] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer, the Malvern Master Sizer 3000®, which allows for the determination of the particle size distribution of all particles over a wide range from 0.01 µm to 1000 µm. The data are processed based on the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is best suited for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron and allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0161] D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% of the particles have by volume.

[0162] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mineral pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter preferably being present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0163] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention by at least one compound selected from metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0164] According to a preferred mode, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with an N-acylated amino acid or one of its salts which can include an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group.

[0165] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylated amino acid derivative, which may be, in particular, a glutamic acid derivative and / or a of its salts, and more specifically a stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate. Examples of pigments treated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate include titanium dioxide pigments and black, red, and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade name NAI® by the company by Miyoshi Kasei.

[0166] According to a preferred method, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with isopropyl titanium triisostearyl titanate. Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include titanium dioxide pigments and black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade names BWB0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77499 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), BWY0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77492 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) and BWRO-12® (Iron Oxide CI77491 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) by Kobo.

[0167] The pigments that can be used according to the invention can also be organic pigments.

[0168] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from among the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0169] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 1725, 15510, 45370, 71105, red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives,phenolic compounds as described in patent FR2 679 771.

[0170] These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EPI 184426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of the organic pigments on the core.

[0171] The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer, we mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0172] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.

[0173] Among the organic dyes, we can mention cochineal carmine. We can also mention the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0174] Examples of lacquers include the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850 :1).

[0175] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one powdered colouring material of the mineral pigment type, in particular chosen from metallic oxides, and more particularly chosen from titanium dioxides, iron oxides, coated or uncoated, and mixtures thereof.

[0176] The nacres can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica or bismuth oxychloride, coloured pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0177] Preferably, if the composition includes them, the powdered colorant(s) is / are present in the composition at a concentration ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and more particularly from 0.05 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Water-soluble or fat-soluble colorants

[0178] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one water-soluble or fat-soluble colouring material and preferably at a rate of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0179] For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the color effect sought and the colonic intensity provided by the coloring materials considered, and its adjustment clearly falls within the competence of the person skilled in the art.

[0180] Additional colouring materials suitable for the invention may be liposoluble.

[0181] By "liposoluble colouring material", in the sense of the invention, is meant any compound generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with a fat and capable of colouring.

[0182] Fat-soluble colorants suitable for the invention may be cited in particular as fat-soluble colorants, synthetic or natural such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotenes ([3-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin.

[0183] The additional coloring materials suitable for the invention may be water-soluble.

[0184] For the purposes of this invention, "water-soluble colouring material" means any compound, generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of colouring.

[0185] As examples of suitable water-soluble colorants for the invention, the following may be cited in particular: synthetic or natural water-soluble colorants such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin.

[0186] The water-soluble or fat-soluble colorant(s), if included in the composition, are preferably present at levels of less than 4% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.02 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. OPTIONAL CHARGES

[0187] The composition according to the invention may include at least one optional filler different from the cellulose particles described above.

[0188] The optional filler, different from the aforementioned cellulose particles, is chosen from mineral fillers, organic fillers, and mixtures thereof.

[0189] The term "charge" refers to a particle of organic or mineral nature, colorless or white, solid, of any shape, insoluble in the medium of the composition at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. These charges are advantageously dispersed in the composition.

[0190] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the content of optional filler(s) represents from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, if the composition comprises at least one filler, then the content The optional filler content is less than the cellulose content. Preferably, the composition does not include any optional fillers. Optional mineral fillers

[0191] The term “mineral filler” means any compound whose chemical structure does not include a carbon atom, regardless of the presence of a coating on said filler.

[0192] The fillers are in the form of particles and are distinct from the coloring materials which will be described below.

[0193] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be particles of lamellar, globular, spherical, fibrous, or any other intermediate shape between these defined forms. The fillers may be spherical, that is to say, comprising at least one generally rounded portion, in particular defining at least one portion of a sphere, preferably internally defining a concavity or a hollow (sphere, globules, bowls, horseshoe, etc.), or lamellar.

[0194] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the charges more particularly have an average particle size (expressed as volume average diameter - D

[50] ) of at least 1 pm, preferably at least 2 pm, advantageously between 2 and 15 pm. The particle size can be measured by laser diffraction using a commercial particle size analyzer of the Mastersizer 3000 type, from Malvern. (see also ISO 13320).

[0195] The fillers used in the composition according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular, they may be coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent, especially one that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler within the composition. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from silicones, in particular silanes; fluorinated derivatives; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof. The N-acylated amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl group.The salts of these compounds can be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine. The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds cited above refers in particular to an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0196] Such fillers may advantageously be selected from silica (INCI name: Silica), perlite, zeolites, calcium magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, kaolin, talc, natural or synthetic mica, boron nitride; silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass, bismuth oxychloride, glass or ceramic microcapsules; such as, for example, borosilicate particles, mixtures thereof. Optional organic fillers

[0197] By "organic charge" means, in the sense of the invention, solid particles of at least one hydrocarbon or silicone compound, preferably hydrocarbon, regardless of their coating.

[0198] The fillers are in the form of particles and may also be surface treated or not, by means of compounds such as those described above in the context of mineral fillers.

[0199] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fibrous, or any other intermediate form between these defined forms. The fillers may be spherical, that is to say, comprising at least one generally rounded portion, in particular defining at least one portion of a sphere, preferably internally defining a concavity or a hollow (sphere, globules, bowls, horseshoe, etc.), or lamellar.

[0200] Suitable fillers include micronized waxes, natural or synthetic, metallic soaps derived from carboxylic organic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, polysaccharide powders, and in particular starch powders, especially corn, wheat or rice starches, crosslinked or uncrosslinked, starch powders crosslinked by octenylsuccinate anhydride, waxy corn starch powders, C8-C22 N-acylated amino acids, for example, lauroyl lysine, and mixtures thereof.

[0201] Other examples, although not preferred, include acrylic (co)polymer particles and their derivatives, for example, polymers with the following INCI names: Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Methyl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates Crosspolymer, Lauryl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylate Crosspolymer; polyamide particles, such as Nylon; silicone particles, in particular silicone resin particles (for example, Polymethylsilsesquioxane); silicone elastomer particles, in particular Vinyl Dimethicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Diphenyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Diphenyl Dimethicone / Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Methylsilanol / Silicate Crosspolymer particles, and their mixtures.

[0202] Preferably, the optional organic filler is not chosen from silicone fillers, nor from acrylic (co)polymers, acrylonitril, polyurethane, polyamides, as described above.

[0203] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the composition does not include polymeric organic fillers, which are considered microplastics. It should be noted that, for the purposes of this invention, "microplastics" means solid, shape-stable polymer particles comprising carbon atoms in the polymer backbone, of synthetic origin or of chemically modified natural origin, insoluble in water (i.e., less than 2 g / L; OECD Directive 105), and smaller than 5 mm in size (and smaller than 15 mm for fibers). "Shape-stable" refers to particles that remain solid in the composition and after its use. For example, polymer particles that form a film in the composition or during its use are not considered to be shape-stable.If, however, it does include them, their content should preferably be less than 5% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight and advantageously less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, if the composition includes them, the content of the aforementioned microplastic-type organic fillers should be less than or equal to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and very advantageously, the composition should be free of them. WATER

[0204] The composition according to the invention may optionally include water. Preferably, the water content does not exceed 5% by weight, and more preferably does not exceed 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more advantageously, the water content, if the composition includes water, does not exceed 1% by weight, in particular does not exceed 0.5% by weight, and even more particularly does not exceed 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. OPTIONAL ADJUVANTS

[0205] Within the framework of the present invention, the composition may further contain at least one optional adjuvant chosen from those commonly used in the cosmetic field, in particular for makeup and / or skin and lip care compositions.

[0206] Examples include lipophilic mineral thickening agents, such as hydrophobic clays, like Disteardimonium Hectorite, Quatemium-18 Bentonites, Quatemium-18 / Benzalkonium Bentonite; and silicas pyrogenated treated hydrophobic or non-hydrophobic (Silica Dimethyl Silylate), or hydrophobic silica aerogels (Silica Silylate), organic thickeners such as dextrin esters; preservatives; antioxidants; complexing agents; solvents; active ingredients; perfumes; etc.

[0207] These adjuvants and their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the desired property of the composition of the invention.

[0208] These optional adjuvants may be present at a content of up to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0209] It should be noted that, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention does not contain oil or solid compound from the petrochemical industry. PREPARATION METHOD

[0210] The composition according to the invention can be prepared according to the conventional methods in the field.

[0211] Usually, the oils, waxes and solid fatty compounds are mixed at a temperature greater than or equal to the melting point of the solid fats.

[0212] Generally, the process is carried out at a temperature between 80 and 150°C, preferably between 85 and 130°C.

[0213] Once the mixture is homogenized, the pigments and fillers are then added while stirring.

[0214] The mixture is then poured into molds and cooled.

[0215] The solidified compositions are then demolded and packaged.

[0216] The following examples will help to better understand the invention, but are not intended to be limiting.

[0217] Raw materials are named by their chemical name or INCI name.

[0218] The quantities indicated are as a percentage by weight of raw materials, except unless otherwise stated. EXAMPLES Example 1

[0219] The following composition has been prepared, the list of ingredients and their contents are summarized in the table below:

[0220] [Tables 1] Ingredients (chemical name or non-chemical name INCI) Phase Composition 1 Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate (Cosmol 43 V, Nisshin Oillio) A q.s. 100 Squalane (Neossance Squalane; Amyris) A 18.0 Dilinolyl Dimer Dilinoleate Dimer (Lusplan DD-DA7 ; Nippon Fine Chemical) A 6.6 Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Butter (Iso Jojoba 50; Desert W haie) A 2.9 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dilinoleate Dimer (Risocast DA-L, Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo) A 3.3 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (LIPEX 204 FFL, Aarhusk arlshamn) A 4.0 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (Lipex 102, Aarhuskarlsha mn) A 4.9 Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dily noleate (Plandool G7; Nippon Fine Chemical) A 17.6 Antioxidant A 0.5 Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (Sunflower Wax; Ke uster Keunen) B 3.5 Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil (Jojoba Wax Flakes, Desert Whale) B 1.8 Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina E00168; Keuster Keunen) B 4.1 Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax (Multiceras) B 1.2 Coloring materials (pigments) C 0.12 Cellulose (Cellulobeads D-10 ; Daito Kasei Kogyo) D 8.0 Actives / fragrance E qs

[0221] Process of preparation: - Grind the pigments in the quantity of oil(s) necessary to obtain a good dispersion of the pigments, taken from phase A (approximately the same content as the pigments) using a three-roll mill or ball mill. - Mix the remaining ingredients from phase A at a temperature between 95 and 100°C, while stirring. - Once the mixture is homogenized, add phase B while stirring. - When the mixture is homogeneous, add the pigment paste obtained previously, while stirring, then after homogenization, the filler particles, and finally the active ingredients, the perfume. - Pour the mixture into molds preheated to 42°C. - Place the molds at -25°C until the mold rises to a temperature of 4°C. - Pierce the sticks to unmold and package them in a supported lipstick device (diameter 11.6 mm). Composition evaluation

[0222] [Tables2] Appearance of the stick: Homogeneous, flawless, smooth and glossy. Hardness (protocol description): 100g. The formula is hard enough to be easily unmolded and packaged. Gloss (protocol description): 11. Application: Easy, precise application with good glide, without any "pushing." Upon application, the formula seems to melt and leave a homogeneous, glossy, very comfortable, non-sticky deposit with a feeling of care, hydration, and nourishment. Comparative Examples 2

[0223] The following comparative compositions were prepared, the list of ingredients and contents of which are summarized in the table below: Composition A in which the cellulose particles are replaced by nylon-12 particles Composition B in which the cellulose particles are replaced by silica particles

[0224] Composition C in which the cellulose particles are replaced by mica particles

[0225] [Tables3] Ingredient (chemical name or not INC I) Phase Composition A Composition B Composition C Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate (Cosmol 43 V, Nisshin Oillio) A qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Squalane (Neossance Squalane; Amy ris) A 18.0 18.0 18.0 Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate ( Lusplan DD-DA 7; Nippon Fine Chemical) A 6.6 6.6 6.6 Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Butter (Iso Jojoba 50; Desert Whale) A 2.9 2.9 2.9 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilin oleate (Risocast DA-L, Kokyu Alcoho 1 Kogyo) A 3,3 3,3 3,3 butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter (L ipex 204 FFL, Aarhuskarlshamn) A 4,0 4,0 4,à Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter ( Lipex 102, Aarhuskarlshamn) A 4,9 4,9 4,9 Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Di mer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Pla ndool G7; Nippon Fine Chemical) A 17,6 17,6 17,6 Antioxydant A 0,5 0,5 0,5 Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (Sunflower Wax; Keuster Keun en) B 3,5 3,5 3,5 Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil (Jojoba Wax Flakes, Desert Whale) B 1,8 1,8 1,8 Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina E00168; Keuster Keunen) B 4,1 4,1 4,1 Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax ( Multiceras) B 1,2 1,2 1,2 Matières colorantes (pigments) C 0,12 0,12 0,12 Nylon-12 (SP 50 ; Toray Industries) D 8,0 - - Silica (BA4 ; JGC Catalysts & Chemi cals) D - 8,0 - Mica (Mearlmica SV ; Sun Chemical) D - - 8,0 Actifs / parfum E qs qs qs

[0226] Procédé de préparation The compositions are prepared as detailed in example 1. Composition evaluation

[0227] [Tables4] Composition A Composition B Composition C Appearance of the stick Homogeneous, glossy with an oily appearance, smooth, without defects Homogeneous, glossy with an oily appearance, smooth, without defects Homogeneous, glossy, smooth, without defects Hardness (protocol description) 120g The composition is easily demolded and packaged. 106g The composition is easily demolded and packaged. 100g The composition is easily demolded and packaged. Gloss (protocol description) 3.3 3.3 3.9 Application Easy application, but the texture of the deposit is oily and sticky. Application remains easy even with significant slippage. The texture of the deposit is very oily, with a greasy feel and is more sticky. Application remains easy but more difficult. The deposit has an oily, stickier character. Example 3

[0228] The following composition was prepared, the list of ingredients and their contents are summarized in the table below:

[0229] [Tables5] Ingredients (chemical name or not INCI) Phase Composition 2 Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate (Cosmol 43 V, Nisshin Oillio) A qs 100 Squalane (Neossance Squalane; Amyris) A 18.00 Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Lusplan DD- DA7; Nippon Fine Chemical) A 6.56 Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Butter (Iso Jojoba 50; Desert W hedge) A 2.9 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate (Risocast DA-L, Ko kyu Alcohol Kogyo) A 3.3 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (Lipex 204 FFL, Aarhuska rlshamn) A 4.0 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER (Lipex 102, Aarhuskarlshamn) A 4.9 Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dili noleate (Plandool G7; Nippon Fine Chemical) A 17.6 Antioxidant A 0.50 Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (Sunflower Wax; Ke uster Keunen) B 3.5 Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil (Jojoba Wax Flakes, Desert Whale) B 1.8 Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina E00168; Keuster Keunen) B 4.10 Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax (Multiceras) B 1.2 Coloring materials (pigments) C 0.12 Cellulose (Cellulobeads USF; Daito Kasei Kogyo) D 8.00 Active ingredients / fragrance E qs

[0230] Preparation process The compositions are prepared as detailed in example 1. Composition evaluation

[0231] [Tableauxô] Appearance of the stick: Homogeneous, smooth, flawless, glossy. Hardness (protocol description): 145g. The composition is easily unmolded and packaged. Gloss (protocol description): 5. Application: Easy, precise application with good glide. Upon application, the composition melts and gives a homogeneous, glossy, non-sticky deposit. Comparative Example 4

[0232] The following comparative composition was prepared, in which squalane is replaced by hydrogenated polyisobutene, and the list of ingredients and contents of which are summarized in the table below:

[0233] [Tables?] Ingredients (chemical name or not INCI) Phase Composition D Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate (Cosmol 43 V, Nisshin Oillio) A qs 100 Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (Parleam; NOF Corporation) A 18.0 Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Lusplan DD-DA7; Nippo n Fine Chemical) A 6.6 Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Butter (Iso Jojoba 50; Desert Whale) A 2,9 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate (Risocast DA-L, K okyu Alcohol Kogyo) A 3,3 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (Lipex 204 FFL, Aarhusk arlshamn) A 4,0 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (Lipex 102, Aarhuskarlsh amn) A 4.9 Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Di linoleate (Plandool G7 ; Nippon Fine Chemical) A 17.6 Antioxydant A 0.5 Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed WaX (Sunflower Wax; Keuster Keunen) B 3,5 Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil (Jojoba Wax Flakes, Desert Whale) B 1,8 Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina E00168; Keuster Keune n) B 4,1 Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax (Multiceras) B 1,2 Matières colorantes (pigments) C 0,12 Cellulose (Cellulobeads D-10 ; Daito Kasei Kogyo) D 8.00 Actifs / parfum And qs

[0234] Preparation procedure On preparing the compositions as detailed in example 1. Evaluation of the composition

[0235] [Tables8] Appearance of the stick: The composition is too soft to be properly unmolded and packaged in a reproducible manner. Hardness (protocol description): 25g Gloss (protocol description): 10 Application: Application is more difficult because the formula tends to crush. The deposit is sticky and shiny.

Claims

Demands

1. A solid cosmetic composition comprising: * 2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a filler selected from cellulose particles; * at least one first polar hydrocarbon ester oil; * optionally at least one second oil selected from linear nonpolar hydrocarbon oils comprising 15 to 30 carbon atoms, or branched hydrocarbon oils comprising 17 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably squalane; * at least one mixture of polar hydrocarbon waxes comprising sunflower wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil and at least one third polar hydrocarbon wax, different from sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil; the total wax content being less than 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;* at least one solid hydrocarbon compound at 20°C, other than waxes, chosen from vegetable butters or butters derived from vegetable oils, polyesters obtained at least from a dimer of mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid; the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms; polyester resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched C6-C1O dicarboxylic acid and an ester of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, possibly hydroxylated, linear or branched, in C6-C2O; as well as mixtures thereof; * optionally at least one additional oil, chosen from polar or nonpolar hydrocarbon oils other than the first and second oils, silicone oils, at a content not exceeding 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Solid cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the cellulose particles have an average size (d(50) by volume) less than or equal to 40 pm, preferably from 1 to 20 pm, preferably from 2 to 15 pm.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cellulose particle content varies from 3 to 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first oil is selected from non-volatile hydrocarbon ester oils comprising one or more ester functions, possibly hydroxylated, and comprising at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, or aromatic, the total number of carbon atoms being at least 12, and mixtures thereof; and preferably among vegetable oils; ester oils, other than vegetable oils, possibly hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, comprising at least one hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated or aromatic, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms; polyesters resulting from the esterification of a polyol, at least one monocarboxylic acid and at least one dicarboxylic acid; liquid polyesters resulting from the reaction of a dimer of a mono- or polyunsaturated acid, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first oil is selected from vegetable oils; ester oils other than vegetable oils, selected from mono- and di- esters, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated, comprising at least 12 carbon atoms and advantageously from 12 to 80 carbon atoms; triesters, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated, comprising up to 80 carbon atoms; tetraesters, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated, comprising from 35 to 80 carbon atoms; polyesters obtained from the esterification of a polyol, at least one monocarboxylic acid and at least one dicarboxylic acid;liquid polyesters resulting from the reaction of fatty acid dimers, mono- or polyunsaturated, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof; and preferably from: - vegetable oils; - triesters such as triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, in C4-C36, more particularly in C8-C20, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate; - tetraesters such as tetraesters of penthaerythritol or polyglycerol and a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate; - Liquid polyesters resulting from the reaction of a mono- or polyunsaturated acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms with at least one alcohol dimer (diol dimer), preferably saturated, of which the alcohol comprises 16 to 22 carbon atoms, such as the compounds with INCI name Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate; - their mixtures.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of first oil(s) represents from 10 to 60% by weight, preferably from 15 to 55% by weight, preferably from 20 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one second oil, preferably squalane.

8. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that, if the composition comprises squalane as a second oil, the content of the second nonpolar hydrocarbon oil other than squalane represents less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more particularly less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably the composition does not comprise any volatile nonpolar hydrocarbon oil(s) other than squalane.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of second oil(s) represents from 10 to 30% by weight, preferably from 12 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition may comprise at least one additional oil, different from the first and second oils, more particularly selected from non-volatile polar or non-polar hydrocarbon oils, from non-volatile silicone oils, from volatile hydrocarbon or silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the additional oil is selected from polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils such as Cl0-C26 fatty alcohols, preferably monohydroxylated; ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, whether identical or not, the R, R' groups represent a hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, preferably in C3-Ci6; and mixtures thereof; preferably at a content less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably, the composition is devoid of it.

12. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the additional oil is selected from non-polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oils, in particular selected from paraffin oil, polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, and mixtures thereof; preferably at a content less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably, the composition is devoid of it.

13. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the additional oil is selected from nonpolar hydrocarbon volatile oils, in particular selected from branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes, C8-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof; preferably with a content of less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably, the composition is devoid of it.

14. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the additional oil is selected from non-volatile or volatile silicone oils, preferably with a content less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably, the composition is devoid of it.

15. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the content of additional volatile or non-volatile, silicone or hydrocarbon oil(s) is less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably, the composition is devoid of it.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sunflower wax content is between 1.5 and 8% by weight, in particular between 1.8 and 8% by weight, preferably between 2 and 7% by weight, or even between 2 and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of hydrogenated jojoba oil is 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, preferably 1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the additional polar hydrocarbon wax, other than sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil, is selected from hydrocarbon waxes of the ester wax type, of the alcohol wax type, or mixtures thereof, and preferably at least one ester wax, selected from: i) waxes of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains of which the number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom in particular oxygen, and whose melting point temperature varies from 45 to 120°C, preferably a C2o-C4O alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate or a C2o-C4O alkyl stearate;(ii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(OCO-R4-COOR5), wherein R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group and may or may not contain one or more unsaturations; (iii) waxes of animal or vegetable origin, other than sunflower wax, such as beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, refined or unrefined, and mixtures thereof;(iv) waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, other than hydrogenated jojoba oil, or by hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of vegetable origin and vegetable oil; (v) polyoxyalkylated or polyglycerolated waxes, natural or synthetic, of animal or vegetable origin; preferably polyoxyethylated beeswaxes, such as PEG-6 beeswax, PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylated carnauba waxes, such as PEG-12 carnauba; lanolin waxes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, polyoxyethened or polyoxypropylened, such as PEG-30 Lanolin, PEG-75 Lanolin; PPG-5 Lanolin Wax Glyceride; polyglycerolated beeswaxes, in particular Polyglyceryl-3 Beewax, esters from the reaction of vegetable waxes Acacia Decurrens Flower wax, Jojoba Esters, Sunflower Seed Wax and Polyglyceryl-3, and mixtures thereof; vi) Waxes corresponding to partial or total esters, preferably total, of a saturated Ci6-C30 carboxylic acid, possibly hydroxylated, with glycerol, preferably the compounds with the following INCI names: Trihydroxystearin, Tristearin, Tribehenin, and mixtures thereof; vii) mixtures thereof.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the additional polar wax is selected from vegetable waxes, in particular candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, and mixtures thereof; from natural or synthetic polyglycerol waxes, of animal or vegetable origin, in particular polyglyceryl-3 Beewax, esters from the reaction of vegetable waxes Acacia Decurrens Flower wax, Jojoba Esters, Sunflower Seed Wax and Polyglyceryl-3, and mixtures thereof.

20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of additional polar wax(s) varies from 3 to 9% by weight, preferably from 3.5 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total wax content is less than or equal to 15% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, more advantageously to a content of at least 7% by weight, preferably of at least 9% by weight, in particular of at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrocarbon compound solid at 20°C differs from waxes selected from * the compounds with the following INCI names: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate; Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate; Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Diinoleate, mixtures thereof; * vegetable butters such as, for example, mango butter, shea butter, cupuacu butter, murumuru butter, cocoa butter, jojoba butter, mixtures thereof; - the compounds with the INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides, mixtures thereof; - the compound with the INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, - mixtures thereof; and preferably chosen from the compounds with the following INCI names: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate;Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate; Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Diinoleate, mixtures thereof; mango butter, shea butter, cupuacu butter, murumuru butter, cocoa butter, jojoba butter, mixtures thereof; mixtures thereof.

23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of solid hydrocarbon compound(s) at 20°C other than waxes varies from 20 to 40% by weight, preferably from 25 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition may comprise at least one colouring material selected from powdered colouring materials, fat-soluble colourings, water-soluble colourings, and mixtures thereof, in particular from pigments, as well as mixtures thereof.

25. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains less than 2% by weight of water, preferably less than 1% of water and advantageously less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, even more preferably, the composition is free of water.

26. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a gloss value of at least 5, more particularly of at least 6, preferably of at least 7.5, and at most 20, more particularly of at most 15; measured using a glossmeter according to the following protocol: The sample to be tested is heated to a temperature sufficient to allow its spreading; more particularly, this temperature is in the order of 98°C. The composition is then spread onto a contrast card of the Byko Chart 2A® or Penopac IA® type from BYK, in the form of a film, using an automatic film spreader of the Byko-Drive XL® type from BYK equipped with a film spreading bar such as a variable slit height square 5353® from BYK, set for a slit height of 50.8 µm.The contrast card is placed on the applicator platform, and the bar with the 50.8 µm slot is positioned on the contrast card, over the area to be filled in. Approximately 2 g of product is applied just in front of the bar. The automatic applicator is started, and the bar is moved to ensure the application of a uniform film of the desired thickness. The film is left to dry at 25°C for 15 minutes. The gloss of the applied film is measured on the black areas of the contrast card at an angle of incidence of 60°; this is expressed in Gloss Units.

27. ​​Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a stick, in particular having a hardness of between 80 and 150 g, more particularly 80 to 120 g.

28. A method for makeup and / or skin and / or lip care, consisting of applying the composition according to any one of the preceding claims.