CAMELINA CAKE EXTRACT AND COMPOSITION INCLUDING, IN PARTICULAR FOR COSMETIC TREATMENT.

Abstract

The present invention relates to a camelina press cake extract and a composition comprising said extract, for cosmetic treatment. The extract according to the invention has anti-aging, pigment-enhancing, and moisturizing effects, notably by acting on the production of various molecules such as hyaluronic acid, collagen, laminins, and melanin, and by inhibiting oxidation, radicals, and glycation.

Description

Title of the invention: CAMELINA CAKE EXTRACT AND COMPOSITION INCLUDING, IN PARTICULAR FOR A COSMETIC TREATMENT.

[0001] The present invention relates to a camelina cake extract, a composition comprising said extract and uses, in particular for a cosmetic treatment.

[0002] “Cosmetic treatment” means a treatment that treats healthy skin and / or skin appendages, said treatment being intended to improve or beautify their appearance and condition. Such a treatment has no therapeutic purpose.

[0003] The present invention relates in particular to the cosmetic industry which manufactures and / or uses products intended for the treatment of the skin, including the scalp, mucous membranes and appendages (such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, hair) of mammals, animals or humans, to improve their appearance and / or general condition.

[0004] These industries are in increasing demand for new products, in particular for new active ingredients which are derived from plants because these make it possible to combine effectiveness, limitation of the risks of irritation and allergy, reduction of side effects, biodegradability, with the possibilities of labelling / certifications and alignment with a logic of sustainable development and / or fair trade.

[0005] Camelina (Camelina saliva), also called "bastard flax" or "German sesame", is native to northern Europe and Central Asia. It has been cultivated in Europe for over 3,000 years, mainly for the production of vegetable oil, animal fodder, heating fuel or as engine fuel.

[0006] Camelina seed oil is interesting for its high levels of unsaturated fatty acids such as alpha-linolenic acid (also called omega-3) and linoleic acid (also called omega-6), which help to reduce the risk of cardiovascular disease.

[0007] In cosmetics, camelina seed oil, rich in unsaturated fatty acids and vitamin E, is used for its soothing, antioxidant properties and to maintain the quality of the skin barrier.

[0008] Camelina seed oil generates a large quantity of solid by-products called camelina cakes.

[0009] The term "oilseed cake" refers to the solid residues resulting from the extraction of the fruits and / or seeds of oilseed plants. Generally, only one extraction is carried out, but several extractions may be considered before recovering the press cake.

[0010] The term "oilseed or oil-bearing plant" refers to a plant from whose fruits or seeds vegetable oil is extracted. These are mechanically pressed to produce vegetable oils that are primarily used in the food industry.

[0011] Camelina cakes, like many other oilseed cakes, are used as fodder for feeding livestock and for fertilizing soils.

[0012] However, there remains a need to find new ways of valorizing high value added camelina cake.

[0013] The present invention aims to provide a new non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment to improve and / or beautify the general condition of the skin and its appendages.

[0014] To this end, the present invention proposes an extract of camelina cake for a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin and its appendages.

[0015] According to the invention, "topical treatment" or "topical use" means an application intended to act at the site where it is applied: skin, mucous membranes and / or hair. Preferably, according to the invention, the treatment is topical.

[0016] The camelina cake extract according to the invention can be obtained by the usual solid / liquid extraction techniques including for example maceration, simple decoction, infusion, leaching, reflux extraction, subcritical or supercritical fluid extraction, extraction by means of ultrasound or microwaves or any other physical and / or chemical method such as percolation, digestion, cryoextraction, enzymatic digestion, etc.

[0017] By "maceration" is meant a process consisting of soaking a plant or part of a plant in an extraction solvent at room temperature.

[0018] By “infusion” we mean a process consisting of bringing the extraction solvent to a boil before pouring it onto the plant or part of the plant.

[0019] By "decoction" we mean a process consisting of mixing the plant or part of a plant with the extraction solvent, and then bringing the whole to a boil.

[0020] By "by digestion" we mean a process consisting of mixing the plant or part of the plant with the extraction solvent, and then heating the mixture below the boiling point.

[0021] Preferably, according to the invention, the extract is obtained by reflux extraction, maceration, decoction, infusion, leaching, subcritical or supercritical fluid, ultrasound or microwave extraction, percolation, digestion, cryoextraction, or enzymatic digestion. Preferably, the extract is obtained by reflux extraction, maceration, decoction, infusion, by leaching, by means of ultrasound or microwaves, by percolation, by digestion or by enzymatic digestion; preferably, by digestion.

[0022] Preferably, according to the invention, the solvent used to prepare the camelina cake extract is selected from an aqueous, alcoholic, hydroalcoholic, glycolic, lipid solvent, or a mixture thereof, such as water, a C1, C2, C3, or C4 alcohol, or a polyol selected from pentanediol, sorbitol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, hexanol, caprylic / capric triglyceride (CGT), a vegetable oil, or a mixture thereof. Preferably, the extraction solvent is an aqueous, alcoholic, or hydroalcoholic solvent, and more preferably, a hydroalcoholic solvent.

[0023] The water-alcohol ratio of the hydroalcoholic solvent is preferably between 90:10 and 10:90, preferably between 80:20 and 20:80, preferably between 30:70 and 70:30, and more preferably between 40:60 and 60:40. More preferably, the water-alcohol ratio of the hydroalcoholic solvent is 40:60.

[0024] Preferably, the hydroalcoholic solvent is a mixture of ethanol and water.

[0025] Preferably, according to the invention, the extract obtained above is dried to obtain a powder by means of vacuum concentration, dehydration, freeze-drying, spray drying, and / or zeodration. Preferably, according to the invention, the extract is dried by zeodration.

[0026] Advantageously, the extract dried by zeodration undergoes very gradual temperature variations between -20°C and 70°C. This gradualness prevents denaturation of the extract's molecular structure and consumes little energy.

[0027] The camelina cake extract according to the invention mainly contains polyphenols including flavonoids, carbohydrates, proteins, minerals and lipids.

[0028] Preferably according to the invention, the camelina cake extract contains at least 1% polyphenols, preferably at least 2% polyphenols, preferably at least 3% polyphenols, preferably still at least 4% polyphenols relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

[0029] Preferably according to the invention, the camelina cake extract contains between 1% and 10% polyphenols, preferably between 2% and 8% polyphenols, preferably between 3% and 6% polyphenols relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

[0030] Preferably according to the invention, the camelina cake extract contains at least 1% flavonoids, preferably at least 2% flavonoids, preferably at least 3% flavonoids relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

[0031] Preferably according to the invention, the camelina cake extract contains between 1% and 10% flavonoids, preferably between 2% and 8% flavonoids, preferably between 3% and 6% flavonoids relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

[0032] Preferably according to the invention, the camelina cake extract does not contain more than 10% lipids, preferably not more than 5% lipids, preferably still not more than 2% lipids relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

[0033] Preferably according to the invention, the camelina cake extract contains between 0.01% and 10% lipids, preferably between 0.1% and 5% lipids, preferably still between 0.5% and 3% lipids relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

[0034] The extract according to the invention, dried or not, can be used as is or in a composition, diluted in a physiologically acceptable medium. The nature of the medium is defined according to the properties of the camelina cake extract and also according to the intended use of the composition formed: a simple ingredient or a more sophisticated pharmaceutical form of a final composition for the consumer.

[0035] By "physiologically acceptable medium" means, according to the present invention, without limitation, an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a microemulsion, an aqueous gel, an anhydrous gel, a serum, a vesicle dispersion, a powder.

[0036] “Physiologically acceptable” means that the compositions are suitable for a Topical or transdermal use, in contact with mucous membranes, nails, scalp, hair, fur, and mammalian, and more specifically human, skin, of compositions that can be ingested or injected into the skin, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic reaction, and other adverse effects. This "physiologically acceptable medium" forms what is classically called the excipient of the composition.

[0037] Preferably, according to the invention, the physiologically acceptable medium can be an aqueous, hydroglycolic, or hydroalcoholic medium, or formed by a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, or a microemulsion. Even more preferably, it is glycolic. Even more preferably, the physiologically acceptable medium is glycerin.

[0038] In vitro test results are given later in the description demonstrating cosmetic activities concerning the beautification and / or general improvement of the skin through the use of a camelina cake extract:

[0039] - an increase in collagen VII and laminins strengthening the dermo- junction epidermal (DEJ) which ensures good anchoring of keratinocytes to the basal lamina and better communication between cells allowing polarization of Keratinocytes, therefore a better skin barrier. This makes it less fragile, which contributes to the suppleness and elasticity of the epidermis.

[0040] - an increase in the anti-radical effect, the antioxidant effect, as well as a anti-glycation effect, allowing the preservation of the dermal extracellular matrix (ECM) and preventing premature aging of the skin and its appendages, which can lead to wrinkles and fine lines, thinning of the skin, degradation of the ECM and / or proteins, etc.

[0041] The increase in oxidizing and radical forms is linked to age and / or repeated environmental stresses, such as UV radiation. Radicals and reactive oxygen species attack, in particular, membrane lipids and / or functional proteins of the dermal ECM, such as collagens.

[0042] Glycation also affects proteins and / or reducing sugars. These interactions with proteins and / or reducing sugars alter the mechanical and elastic properties of the dermal ECM, which becomes less supple, more rigid, but also more flaccid and less reactive. Glycation is visually manifested on the skin by the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, dull, sagging, lackluster, tired-looking skin, and skin lacking tone and suppleness.

[0043] The strengthening of the DEJ and the preservation of the dermal ECM allow for denser, plumper, firmer, more supple and more elastic skin with, as a result, a more homogeneous, smoother skin texture and a better complexion radiance.

[0044] - a stimulation of melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity.

[0045] Melanin is responsible for the dark pigmentation of the skin. It is also the natural pigment of the eyes, hair, eyelashes and fur (melanogenesis), to intensify the normal pigmentation of the skin and its appendages without solar or UV radiation.

[0046] To stimulate melanin synthesis, one of the methods is to increase the activity of tyrosinase, which is the first enzyme in the melanin biosynthesis chain and which transforms tyrosine into DOPA-quinone.

[0047] A pigment-promoting active ingredient will act primarily on stimulating melanin synthesis in order to intensify normal pigmentation of the skin and hair without solar or UV radiation. Melanocytes located in the epidermis produce melanin from the amino acid tyrosine. Tyrosinase and other enzymes then act to transform tyrosine and form melanin.

[0048] Applications will include repigmentation of white skin spots and accelerating and / or intensifying tanning. An active ingredient can also be used Propigmenting agent for the prevention and repigmentation of hair, body hair, eyelashes and / or eyebrows (treatment of graying). Applications may be for cosmetic purposes, including self-tanning or evening out skin tone treatments, treatments to strengthen the phototype of people with fair and sun-sensitive skin, skin preparation treatments before sun exposure, and treatments for white spots, particularly those due to partial melanocyte deficiency.

[0049] - an increase in hyaluronic acid synthesis.

[0050] Hyaluronic acid is a major component of the epidermis, contributing to the barrier function and maintaining adequate skin hydration. It is capable of holding 1000 times its weight in water. It is in the form of a nourishing aqueous gel that fills the spaces between keratinocytes. In this way, it prevents skin dryness, which is known to alter skin texture, giving it a rough and coarse feel.

[0051] Thus, the present invention preferentially proposes the use of camelina press cake extract from the species Camelina saliva, for at least one treatment selected from:

[0052] - an anti-aging treatment through the strengthening of the DEJ and / or the preservation of the dermal ECM;

[0053] - a propagating treatment through the stimulation of tyrosinase activity and of melanin synthesis; and / or

[0054] - a moisturizing treatment through the increase in hyaluronic acid synthesis.

[0055] These cosmetic effects can be considered according to the invention separately or in combination.

[0056] The present invention therefore covers a non-therapeutic cosmetic topical treatment method for beautifying or improving the appearance and general condition of the skin and / or hair and treating imperfections, in a subject who needs an effective amount of at least one camelina cake extract according to the invention or a composition comprising it, in a physiologically acceptable excipient.

[0057] The "effective" amount of camelina seed cake extract according to the invention, that is, its dosage, depends on the intended use of the composition. It depends on various factors, such as age, the condition and severity of the skin disorder and / or skin appendages. An effective amount means a non-toxic quantity sufficient to achieve the desired effect.

[0058] To be present in an effective quantity in a final composition intended for the consumer, the proportions of dry camelina press cake extract according to the invention are generally between 0.000001% and 15% by weight of the total composition, preferably between 0.00001% and 10%, preferably even between 0.0001% and 5% depending on the intended use of the composition, the desired effect (more or less pronounced), and the frequency of application. Preferably, the effective amount is between 0.001% and 1% of the total weight of the composition.

[0059] All percentages and ratios used in this application are by weight of the total composition and all measurements are taken at 25°C, unless otherwise specified.

[0060] For example, for a cosmetic facial treatment, the European Cosmetics Directive has set a standard application quantity of a cream of 2.72 mg / cm2 / day / person and for a body lotion of 0.5 mg / cm2 / day / person.

[0061] According to other features, the cosmetic treatment process according to the invention can be associated with one or more other skin treatment processes, such as light therapy, heat therapy or aromatherapy treatments.

[0062] According to the invention, it is possible to propose multi-compartment devices or kits intended for the implementation of the process described above, and which could include, by way of example, and without limitation, in a first compartment a composition containing a camelina cake extract according to the invention in an excipient, and in a second compartment an additional active ingredient acting jointly according to the invention in an excipient and / or additional active ingredient, the compositions contained in said first and second compartments being herein considered as a combination composition for simultaneous, separate or spread-out use in particular in one of the treatments defined above.

[0063] According to other advantageous features, the camelina cake extract according to the invention can be used in combination with one or more additional active ingredients at effective concentrations advantageously providing a synergistic effect or as reinforcement to achieve the desired effects described for the invention.Additional active ingredients can be chosen from a range of sources, including anti-redness, anti-blemish, and calming agents; ingredients for treating sensitive and reactive skin; radiation filtering agents (including UVA, UVB, IR, and blue light); moisturizing, humectant, exfoliating, smoothing, toning, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle and fine line agents; agents that improve mechanical and elastic properties and skin radiance; detoxifying agents; agents that inhibit hair regrowth; agents that act on the skin barrier; anti-acne agents; agents that regulate sebum secretion; mattifying agents; unifying agents; anti-inflammatory agents; antioxidants; free radical scavengers; anti-glycation agents; eye contour agents (anti-dark circles and anti-puffiness); agents that promote blood circulation; peptides; vitamins; ceramides; and more. These active ingredients can be obtained synthetically or from plant-based materials, such as plant extracts or products of plant cultivation or fermentation.

[0064] The "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook" published by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, DC, describes a wide variety, without limitation, of cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the skincare industry, which are suitable for use as additional ingredients in compositions according to the present invention, provided they are physically and chemically compatible with the other ingredients of the composition and especially with the active ingredients of the present invention. Furthermore, the nature of these additional ingredients must not unacceptably alter the benefits of the active ingredients of the invention. These additional ingredients may be synthetic or natural, such as plant extracts, or derived from a biofermentation process.

[0065] Other skin care actives which are particularly useful in combination with the composition according to the invention can be found in the commercial documentation of Alban Muller International, Crodarom and Sederma, and on the website www.croda.com.

[0066] More specifically, the camelina cake extract according to the invention can be combined with at least one of the compounds selected from vitamin compounds, groups BC, E, F, D and A in particular, compounds such as niacinamide or tocopherol, retinoid compounds such as retinol, hyaluronic acid, a-lipoic acid, resveratrol, peptides or ceramides, which are classic active ingredients used in topical cosmetic compositions.

[0067] The present invention also proposes the use of a camelina cake extract, as described above, for the manufacture of a composition for a cosmetic treatment, as also described above.

[0068] The composition for use according to the invention can be offered in any galenic form (examples are given later in the description) defined according to the purpose of the composition and its site of application.

[0069] A composition according to the invention can be applied to the face, body, décolleté, in any form or vehicle known to those skilled in the art, in particular in the form of a solution, dispersion, emulsion, paste or powder, individually or premixed or be conveyed individually or premixed by vectors such as macrocapsules, microcapsules or nanocapsules, macrospheres, microspheres, or nanospheres, liposomes, oleosomes or chylomicrons, macroparticles, microparticles or nanoparticles, macrosponges, microsponges or nanosponges, microemulsions or nanoemulsions, or adsorbed onto powdered organic polymers, talcs, bentonites, spores or exines and other mineral or organic supports.

[0070] In cosmetics in particular, applications may be proposed, especially in ranges of facial and / or body skin care and makeup-care ranges, particularly eyelashes and eyebrows.

[0071] For example, the galenic form of the composition may be a lotion, a cream, a butter, a milk, a solid form, a mousse, a gel, a deodorant, an antiperspirant, a shampoo, a conditioner, a hair mask, a face mask, a shower gel, etc.

[0072] The galenic formulas may be included in ranges of personal care and / or beauty products, including ranges of skin care, cleansing, makeup, makeup removal, sun protection, artificial tanning, pre-shave, shaving, or after-shave, moisturizing, humectant, emollient, conditioning, exfoliating, astringent, depilatory, anti-perspirant or antiperspirant, deodorant, deodorizing, etc.

[0073] The composition can also be incorporated on a non-woven or woven material, of natural or synthetic fibers, wool, or on any material intended to come into contact with the skin and which can be used in clothing, in particular tights and socks, shorts, day or night underwear, handkerchiefs, or fabrics, in order to exert its cosmetic effect through this skin / textile contact and allow continuous topical delivery (cosmetotextiles).

[0074] According to the invention, a woven or non-woven material comprising at least one camelina cake extract is also proposed, for use in a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0075] The present invention will be better understood in the light of the detailed description of embodiment examples, studies and figures described below.

[0076] 1. Example of obtaining a camelina cake extract according to the invention and a composition comprising

[0077] Plant material: camelina cake obtained after a single extraction in a camelina seed crusher.

[0078] Extraction solvent: Ethanol - Water (40:60)

[0079] Procedure: Camelina cake is ground and then extracted from the extraction solvent by digestion at approximately 50°C for about 2 hours. The resulting extract is filtered to remove solid plant debris. Several successive filtrations are performed, with a particle size ranging from 0 to 5 µm. The filtered extract is then concentrated under vacuum to evaporate some of the solvent, and then zeodrated to completely dry the filtered extract.

[0080] This operating method advantageously allows obtaining a dry extract of camelina cake comprising, in percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the extract Dry matter: approximately 5% polyphenols, including approximately 4% flavonoids and approximately 1% lipids. Polyphenols and flavonoids are identified by UV-visible spectrometry, and lipids by gravimetry.

[0081] To obtain a composition forming an active ingredient for a cosmetic formula intended for the consumer, the dry extract according to the invention is mixed with a physiologically acceptable matrix, consisting of glycerin. Examples of cosmetic formulas are described in paragraph 3 below.

[0082] This active ingredient is recommended in a composition at a concentration of 0.1 to 5%, preferably at a concentration of 0.5% to 3%, and even more preferably at a concentration of 1% to 2%. It is understood that these concentrations could vary without departing from the scope of the present invention, depending on the desired more or less pronounced effects.

[0083] 2. Evaluations of the different activities of the ingredient according to the invention by in vitro tests

[0084] Product tested: 20% of diluted dry extract as prepared above, in a DMSO - water mixture (50:50). 2.1. Anti-aging treatment

[0085] 2.1.1. Reinforcement of the dermo-epidermal junction Principle

[0086] The dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) ensures cohesion between the epidermis and the dermis. During aging, a decrease in the synthesis of these components (notably collagen VII and laminins) is observed. Aging of the DEJ affects the skin's elasticity, resilience, and loss of its dynamism. 2.1.1.1. Collagen VII Protocol

[0087] Human keratinocytes (HK) are cultured to subconfluence and then either or not (for control cases) brought into contact with the product according to the invention. Following this contact, collagen VII synthesis is evaluated using ELISA-type kits. An estimation of the cell quantity by DNA staining using Hoechst 33258 allows for normalization of the results. Results

[0088] Variation in the production of collagen VII by keratinocytes. Effect of 0.2% of the product according to the invention compared to the control (n=4):

[0089] [Tables 1] Collagen VII (pg / mL / 10⁶ cells) Variation (%); indicates activity Control 16.1 ± 1.1 Reference 0.2% of the product according to the invention 31.1 + 2.5 + 93%; p<0.01

[0090] The results show that the product according to the invention significantly increases the production of collagen VII in keratinocytes. 2.1.1.2. Laminates Protocol

[0091] Human keratinocytes (HK) are cultured to subconfluence and then either or not (for control cases) brought into contact with the product according to the invention. Following this contact, laminin synthesis is evaluated using ELISA-type kits. An estimation of the cell quantity by DNA staining using Hoechst 33258 allows for normalization of the results. Results

[0092] Variation in laminin production by keratinocytes. Effect of the product according to the invention at 0.065% compared to the control (n=4):

[0093] [Tables2] Laminins (pg / mL / 10⁶ cells) Variation (%); significance Control 28.0 + 1.7 Reference 0.065% of the product according to the invention 52.4 + 2.1 + 87%; p < 0.01

[0094] The results show that the product according to the invention significantly increases the production of laminins in keratinocytes. Conclusion

[0095] These results show that the product according to the invention has a direct action of strengthening the JDE by stimulating the synthesis of laminins and collagen VII.

[0096] The product according to the invention can thus improve skin aging linked to a disorganization of the DEJ, by counteracting the loss of suppleness and elasticity that it causes. 2.1.2. Antioxidant capacity Principle

[0097] Oxidative stress plays a central role in the skin's response to various stressors. Free radicals (H2O2, OH, O2-, O2, *O2 ...) cause damage to proteins, lipids and DNA, leading to premature aging of the skin. 2.1.2.1. Singlet Oxygen Protocol

[0098] A singlet O2 generating system receives or does not receive (for control cases) the product according to the invention. To measure the evolution, the degradation of uric acid is monitored at 292 nm by spectrophotometry. Results

[0099] Variation in singlet O2 production (n=6). Effect of 0.065% and 0.2% of the product according to the invention compared to the control:

[0100] [Tables3] O2 singlet (Mean variation in optical density) Variation (%); significance Control 31.71 + 2.39 Reference 0.065% of the product according to the invention 23.02 + 2.50 -ZI p<0.01 0.2% of the product according to the invention 13.10 + 3.32 - 59%; p<0.01

[0101] The results show that the product according to the invention significantly reduces the presence of singlet O2. 2.1.2.2. Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) Protocol

[0102] Normal human fibroblasts (NHFs) are cultured to confluence in their culture medium. The cells are then exposed to the product according to the invention for 24 hours and subsequently receive a fluorescent probe to label the intracellular production of reactive oxygen species (ROS). After incorporation for 30 minutes and rinsing, the cells are again exposed to the product according to the invention. The cells then receive, or do not receive, an agent designed to generate ROS (oxidative stress). A fluorescence reading (e.g., 490 nm / eM: 520 nm) allows estimation of the amount of intracellular ROS. The number of cells is estimated using the DNA staining method with the Hoechst 33258 to weight the data obtained. Results

[0103] Variation in ROS production in the intracellular content of fibroblasts, with or without oxidative stress. Effect of 0.065% and 0.2% of the product according to the invention compared to the control (n=3):

[0104] [Tables4] Variation (%); Significance Unstressed Stressed Control Reference 1 Reference 2 0.065% of the product according to the invention - 23%; p<0.05 - 86%; p<0.01 0.2% of the product according to the invention - 59%; p<0.01 - 94%; p<0.01

[0105] The results show that the product according to the invention makes it possible to significantly reduce the generation of reactive oxygen species in the intracellular content of fibroblasts that have received oxidative stress or not. 2.1.2.3. UVA Lipoperoxidation Protocol

[0106] Lipid peroxidation is evaluated using a test that monitors the onset of peroxidation (measuring the amount of conjugated dienes formed) of lipid membranes in the form of liposomes after oxidizing UVA radiation. Reduction by an antioxidant is sought. In this test, the product according to the invention is irradiated. Results

[0107] Variation of peroxidation (n=6). Effect of 0.065% of the product according to the invention compared to the control:

[0108] [Tables5] Lipoperoxidation (Average change in optical density) Variation (%); meaning activity Control 6.430 ± 0.753 Reference 0.065% of the product according to the invention 1.512 + 0.030 - 76%; p<0.01

[0109] The results show that the product according to the invention significantly reduces lipid peroxidation. Conclusion

[0110] The product according to the invention has a strong antioxidant capacity, enabling it to effectively combat premature skin aging that can lead to wrinkles and fine lines, thinning of the skin, degradation of ECM and / or proteins, etc. 2.1.3. Anti-glycation capacity Principle

[0111] Glycation of proteins with reducing sugars in the skin is also responsible for skin aging. Indeed, the formation of numerous proteins Glycated substances, whose functional, enzymatic, and structural properties are altered, have consequences for the proper functioning of the cell or the organism. This results in altered mechanical and elastic properties of the dermal extracellular matrix (ECM), which becomes less flexible, more rigid, but also more flaccid and less reactive, also reflected in a dull complexion. Protocol

[0112] The study of non-enzymatic glycation is carried out between a model protein, serum albumin, which serves as the target, and an edible reducing sugar derived from fruit. The protein is progressively and irreversibly glycated (bound to the sugar), in the presence or absence of the product according to the invention. This modification is monitored by fluorescence. Results

[0113] Glycation variation (n=4). Effect of 0.065% and 0.2% of the product according to the invention compared to the control:

[0114] [Tableauxô] Non-enzymatic glycation (Mean change in fluorescence unit) Variation (%); significance Control 95744 ± 2054 Reference 0.065% of the product according to the invention 17389 + 517 - 82%; p<0.01 0.2% of the product according to the invention 8070 ± 558 - 92%; p<0.01

[0115] The results show the strong anti-glycation potential of the product according to the invention. Conclusion

[0116] The product according to the invention has an anti-glycation power which also helps to fight against skin aging, allowing to preserve and / or improve the radiance of the complexion. 2.2. Propagating treatment 2.2.1. Melanin Production Protocol

[0117] Normal human cutaneous melanocytes (NHM) are cultured and in contact for 10 days with the product according to the invention. The culture media are changed every 2 or 3 days. At the end of this contact period, the cell mats are broken down and the melanin is extracted from the cells. The amount of melanin is evaluated by spectrophotometry at 490 nm, using a standard curve previously established from a melanin solution. A protein assay by the acid method is performed. Bicinchoninic (BCA) allows us to estimate the quantity of cells in order to homogenize the data obtained. Results

[0118] Variation in melanin production by MHN after 10 days. Effect of 0.2% of the product according to the invention compared to the control (n=4):

[0119] [Tables?] Melanin concentration (pg / mL / 10⁶ cells) Variation (%); significance Control 207.3 + 7.0 Reference 0.2% of the product according to the invention 302.0 + 21.2 + 46%; p<0.01

[0120] The results show that the product according to the invention significantly stimulates melanin production in cultured human melanocytes. 2.2.2. Tyrosinase Activity Protocol

[0121] Normal human cutaneous melanocytes (NHM) are cultured and incubated for 10 days with the product according to the invention. The culture media are changed every 2 or 3 days. After incubation, tyrosinase is extracted from the cells and its DOPA-oxidase activity is evaluated using the L-DOPA substrate at 37°C. The absorbance due to DOPA-quinone production is measured at 490 nm and converted into units of activity using a pre-established scale. A protein assay using the BCA method is used to estimate the number of cells and thus homogenize the data obtained. Results

[0122] Variation in tyrosinase activity by MHN after 10 days. Effect of 0.2% of the product according to the invention compared to the control (n=4):

[0123] [Tables8] Tyrosinase (pg / mL / 10⁶ cells) Variation (%); Significance Control 43.1 + 3.1 Reference 0.2% of the product according to the invention 82.9 + 5.7 + 92%; p < 0.01

[0124] The results show that the product according to the invention significantly increases tyrosinase activity. It can therefore promote more active melanogenesis. 2.3. Moisturizing treatment Protocol

[0125] Human keratinocytes are cultured to subconfluence and then brought into contact with the product according to the invention. Following this contact, hyaluronic acid synthesis is evaluated using an ELIS A assay. An estimation of the number of cells by DNA staining using the Hoechst 33258 allows for homogenization of the results. Results

[0126] Variation in hyaluronic acid production by keratinocytes. Effect of 0.065% of the product according to the invention compared to the control (n=4):

[0127] [Tables9] Hyaluronic acid (pg / mL / 10⁶ cells) Variation (%); significance Control 658.0 + 58.6 Reference 0.065% of the product according to the invention 1151.5 + 169.2 + 75%; p<0.01

[0128] The results show that the product according to the invention significantly increases the synthesis of hyaluronic acid in keratinocytes. 3. Example of a cosmetic formulation

[0129] Various cosmetic formulations are described below, containing the ingredient according to the invention, in particular as formulated in point 1 above.

[0130] Additional active ingredients, which may support and / or complement the activity of the ingredient according to the invention, may be added to the appropriate phase depending on their hydrophobic, hydrophilic, or amphiphilic nature. These ingredients may be of any category depending on their function(s), the area of ​​application (body, face, neck, bust, hands, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, etc.), the desired end effect, and the target consumer, for example, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, moisturizing, anti-dark circles, firming, anti-glycation, slimming, soothing, muscle relaxant, anti-redness, sensitive skin, anti-stretch marks, mattifying, etc. Example 1#: Cream gel

[0131] [TableauxlO] Raw materials % INCI name Phase A Water q.s. Water / Aqua Phase B Vegetable Glycerin PH 1.00 Glycerin Propanediol 3.00 Propanediol Euxyl PE 9010 0.80 Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin Phase C Xanthan gum 0.20 Xanthan gum Phase D Aristoflex® AVC 0.80 Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer Phase E SP Arlacel™ 165-FP 3.00 Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate Crodamol™ IPIS 6.00 Isopropyl Isostearate Phase F Ingredient according to the invention 1.00 / Phase G Citric acid 0.10 Citric acid Operating procedure

[0132] Heat phase A to 80°C. Add phase B to phase A, while stirring. Disperse phase C in phase A+B. Disperse phase D in phase A+B+C. Heat E to 75°C. Add E to phase A+B+C+D, stirring vigorously. Allow to cool under a deflocculator. Add phase F to phase A+B+C+D+E. If necessary, adjust the pH to 5.5 using phase G. Example 2#: Lotion

[0133] [Tableauxll] Raw materials % INCI name Phase A Water QSP Water / Aqua Phase B Vegetable Glycerin PH 3.00 Glycerin Propanediol 5.00 Propanediol Phase C Euxyl PE 9010 1.00 Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin Phase D SP Crodasinic LS30 NT 3.00 Aqua (and) Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate Phase E Ingredient according to the invention 1.00 / Phase F Citric acid 0.10 Operating procedure

[0134] Weigh phase A. Add phase B to phase A. Add phase C to phase A+B. Add phase D to phase A+B+C. Add E to phase A+B+C+D. If necessary, adjust the pH to 5.5 using phase F. Example 3#: Serum

[0135] [Tables 12] Raw Materials % INCI Name Phase A Water QSP Water / Aqua Reconstituted Aloe Vera Gel 10.00 Aqua (and) Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder Phase B Vegetable Glycerin PH 3.00 Glycerin Sodium Benzoate 0.20 Sodium Benzoate Potassium Sorbate 0.07 Potassium Sorbate Dermofeel® PA 0.10 Phytic Acid (and) Aqua Phase C Actigum™ CS 11 GR non-ionized 0.20 Sclerotium Gum Phase D Xanthan Gum 0.80 Xanthan Gum Phase E Propanediol 2.00 Propanediol Phase F Ingredient according to the invention 1.00 / Phase G Citric Acid 0.13 Citric Acid Operating procedure

[0136] Heat phase A to 80°C. Add phase B to phase A, while stirring. Disperse phase C into phase A+B while stirring. Disperse phase D into phase A+B+C while stirring. Heat E to 75°C. Allow to cool while stirring. Add phase E to phase A+B+C+D. Add phase F to phase A+B+C+D+E. If necessary, adjust the pH to 5.5 using phase G.

[0137] Examples of other ingredients that may be added to this formulation:

[0138] Cosme-Phytami™ Camu Camu: active ingredient marketed by Alban Muller International, source of vitamin C to revitalize the skin and improve the radiance of the complexion.

[0139] Padinami™ EC: an active ingredient marketed by Alban Muller International, helps in the synthesis of hyaluronic acid and collagen, providing anti-aging and moisturizing properties.

[0140] Phytessence™ White Peony: active ingredient marketed by Crodarom, to unify the skin and improve the radiance of the complexion.

[0141] Crodarom® Green Caviar: active ingredient marketed by Crodarom, to maintain the skin's hydration level.

Claims

Demands

1. Camelina cake extract for topical non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin and its appendages.

2. Extract according to claim 1, characterized in that the extract is obtained by reflux extraction, maceration, decoction, infusion, leaching, using ultrasound or microwaves, percolation, digestion or enzymatic digestion.

3. Extract according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the extraction solvent is a hydroalcoholic solvent.

4. Extract according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is dried using vacuum concentration, dehydration, freeze-drying, spray drying and / or zeodration.

5. Cosmetic composition comprising camelina cake extract according to any one of claims 1 to 4 in a physiologically acceptable matrix.

6. Use of an extract according to any one of claims 1 to 4 or of a composition according to claim 5, for a topical non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin and its appendages.

7. Use according to claim 6, characterized in that the treatment is chosen from: - an anti-aging treatment; - a pro-igmenting treatment; and / or - a moisturizing treatment.

8. Use according to claim 7, characterized in that the anti-aging treatment is suitable for preserving and stimulating the elasticity and resilience of the skin.

9. Use according to claim 7 or 8, characterized in that the anti-aging treatment is a preventive antioxidant treatment preventing premature aging of the skin and its appendages.

10. Use according to claim 9, characterized in that the anti-aging treatment is an anti-wrinkle treatment.

11. Use according to claim 7 to 10, characterized in that the anti-aging treatment is a preventive anti-glycation treatment to preserve or improve the radiance of the complexion.

12. Use according to claim 7, characterized in that the pro-pigmenting treatment is suitable for repigmenting spots white, accelerate and / or intensify skin tanning, treat graying, even out skin tone and / or strengthen the phototype of people with fair and sun-sensitive skin.