A process for treating keratin fibers using one or more specific peptides or a composition comprising them.

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers using one or more specific peptides or a composition comprising them.

Description

Title of the invention: A method for treating keratin fibers using one or more specific peptides or a composition comprising them Technical field of the invention

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for treating keratin fibers using one or more particular peptides or a composition comprising them. Context of the invention

[0002] External atmospheric agents such as pollution and inclement weather, as well as mechanical or chemical treatments, or certain routines such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming, straightening, and repeated washing, can damage and weaken hair. Hair can become deformed and damaged and, over time, become dry, rough, brittle, dull, split, and / or limp.

[0003] In order to remedy this, it is common to use hair compositions designed to condition the hair by providing satisfactory cosmetic properties, including smoothing, shine, softness to the touch, suppleness, lightness, good detangling properties leading to ease of combing, good hair discipline which is thus easier to style and keeps its shape.

[0004] These hair care compositions, intended to be applied regularly to the hair, may be, for example, conditioners, masks or serums, and may be in the form of gels, hair lotions and more or less thick care creams.

[0005] However, the conditioning effect conferred by such hair care products generally fades rapidly over time, does not always have a satisfactory residual effect after shampooing, and does not prevent irreversible hair deformation due to fiber elongation, for example during combing or detangling, nor does it repair or prevent hair breakage.

[0006] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is, products whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern in order to help address global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions that address these environmental challenges, particularly by reducing the use of petrochemical-derived compounds.

[0007] Thus, there is a real need to develop a hair treatment process that can remedy these drawbacks and that is in particular capable of preserving or even improving the quality of the fiber, in particular softness, detangling, smoothness to the touch, discipline and / or shine and / or preventing irreversible deformation of the hair due to the elongation of the fibers, for example during combing or detangling, in particular damaged and / or sensitized hair, and / or repairing or preventing breakage of the hair, in particular damaged and / or sensitized hair.

[0008] The applicant has surprisingly discovered that all or part of these objectives can be achieved by the process according to the present invention. Summary of the invention

[0009] According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a method for treating keratin fibers comprising a) the application to keratin fibers of one or more compounds P or of a composition (C) comprising them, the compound(s) P being chosen from peptides whose sequence consists of 3 to 6 amino acids, the C-terminal end of the peptides being chosen from lysine or arginine and / or the sequence of peptides comprising lysine-lysine or arginine-arginine or lysine-arginine or arginine-lysine, the N-acylated derivatives of these peptides, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures.

[0010] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to the composition (C) as defined above, in which the pH of the composition (C) is between 3.5 and 6.5, preferably between 3.5 and 5.5, more preferably between 4 and 5, even more preferably between 4.25 and 4.75, most preferably the pH of the composition (C) is 4.

[0011] According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to the use of one or more compounds P as defined above or of a composition (C) as defined above for the care of keratin fibers, preferably to give keratin fibers softness to the touch and / or a smooth feel and / or shine, more preferably to give softness to the touch and / or a smooth feel.

[0012] According to a fourth aspect, the present invention relates to the use of one or more compounds P as defined above or of a composition (C) as defined above to prevent irreversible deformation of keratin fibers during combing and / or detangling.

[0013] According to a fifth aspect, the present invention relates to the use of one or more compounds P as defined above or of a composition (C) as defined above to repair and / or prevent the breakage of keratin fibers. Detailed description of the invention

[0014] For the purposes of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0015] ■ By "keratin fibers" we mean fibers of human or animal origin such as such as hair, body hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, wool, angora, cashmere, or fur. According to the present invention, the keratin fibers are preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably hair.

[0016] ■ By "abhed keratin fibers", we mean dry, rough keratin fibers, brittle, split and / or soft.

[0017] ■ By "sensitized keratin fibers", we mean bleached keratin fibers, artificially colored, straightened and / or permed.

[0018] ■ By "heterocyclic group" is meant a monocyclic or polycyclic group, condensed or not, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or not, comprising from 3 to 10 carbon atoms and of which at least one of the links is a heteroatom chosen from the nitrogen, oxygen or sulfur atom.

[0019] ■ by "alkyl group" is meant a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, for example methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl or eicosyl.

[0020] ■ By "(Cx-Cy) alkyl group" is meant an alkyl group comprising from x to y atoms of carbon.

[0021] ■ by "salt" is meant an addition salt with an organic acid or base or Mineral. Addition salts with an acid are chosen from among those with organic or mineral acids, such as hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, nitric acid, sulfuric acid, citric acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, tosylic acid, benzenesulfonic acid, phosphoric acid, or acetic acid. Addition salts with a base are chosen from among those with organic or mineral bases, such as alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonia, amines, or alkanolamines.

[0022] ■ by "isomer" we mean an optical isomer, geometric isomer or tautomer.

[0023] The expressions "at least one" and "one or more" are synonymous and may can be used interchangeably.

[0024] The expressions "between ... and ...", "includes from ... to ...", "made up of ... to ...", and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood inclusive of bounds, unless otherwise specified. Keratin fiber processing method

[0025] According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers as defined above.

[0026] The applicant has found, surprisingly, that the process according to the present invention makes it possible to preserve or even improve the quality of keratin fibers, in particular damaged and / or sensitized keratin fibers in order to repair them and / or reduce breakage and also to improve their softness, detangling, smoothness to the touch, discipline and / or shine. Compounds P

[0027] The compound(s) P are chosen from peptides whose sequence consists of 3 to 6 amino acids, the C-terminal end of the peptides being chosen from lysine or arginine and / or the sequence of peptides comprising lysine-lysine or arginine-arginine or lysine-arginine or arginine-lysine, the N-acylated derivatives of these peptides, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures.

[0028] The compound(s) P may be chosen from peptides whose sequence consists of 3 amino acids, the C-terminal end of the peptides being chosen from lysine or arginine and / or the sequence of peptides comprising lysine-lysine or arginine-arginine or lysine-arginine or arginine-lysine, the N-acylated derivatives of these peptides, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures.

[0029] The compound(s) P may be chosen from peptides whose sequence consists of 4 amino acids, the C-terminal end of the peptides being chosen from lysine or arginine and / or the sequence of peptides comprising lysine-lysine or arginine-arginine or lysine-arginine or arginine-lysine, the N-acylated derivatives of these peptides, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures.

[0030] The compound(s) P may be chosen from peptides whose sequence consists of 5 amino acids, the C-terminal end of the peptides being chosen from lysine or arginine and / or the sequence of peptides comprising lysine-lysine or arginine-arginine or lysine-arginine or arginine-lysine, the N-acylated derivatives of these peptides, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures.

[0031] The compound(s) P may be chosen from peptides whose sequence consists of 6 amino acids, the C-terminal end of the peptides being chosen from lysine or arginine and / or the sequence of peptides comprising lysine-lysine or arginine-arginine or lysine-arginine or arginine-lysine, the N-acylated derivatives of these peptides, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures.

[0032] Preferably, the compound(s) P are chosen from peptides whose sequence consists of 3 or 4 amino acids, the C-terminal end of the peptides being chosen from lysine or arginine and / or the sequence of peptides comprising lysine- lysine or arginine-arginine or lysine-arginine or arginine-lysine, the N-acylated derivatives of these peptides, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures.

[0033] According to a first embodiment, the compound(s) P are chosen from peptides whose sequence consists of 3 to 6 amino acids, preferably 3 or 4 amino acids, the C-terminal end of the peptides being chosen from lysine or arginine, the N-acylated derivatives of these peptides, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures.

[0034] According to a second embodiment, the compound(s) P are selected from peptides whose sequence consists of 3 to 6 amino acids, preferably 3 or 4 amino acids, and the sequence comprises lysine-lysine or arginine-arginine or lysine-arginine or arginine-lysine, the N-acylated derivatives of these peptides, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof. According to this second embodiment, the C-terminal end of the peptides may not be selected from lysine or arginine.

[0035] According to a third embodiment, the compound(s) P are chosen from peptides whose sequence consists of 3 to 6 amino acids, preferably 3 or 4 amino acids, the C-terminal end of the peptides being chosen from lysine or arginine and the sequence of the peptides comprising lysine-lysine or arginine-arginine or lysine-arginine or arginine-lysine, the N-acylated derivatives of these peptides, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures.

[0036] Preferably, the compound(s) P are non-acylated.

[0037] Preferably, the compound(s) P are chosen from compounds of formula (I): AA1-AA2-(AAi)n-AA3 (I) Formula (I) in which: - AAi, AA2, AA3 and AA;, identical or different, designate an amino acid; - n denotes an integer equal to 0, 1, 2 or 3, preferably n is equal to 0 or 1; - when n is equal to 2 or 3, the amino acids AA are either identical or different; it being understood that: - at least one of the amino acids AA, AA2, AA3, or AA; is chosen from lysine or arginine; and - if AA3 designates lysine or arginine then AA2 and AA; designate any amino acid; and - if AA3 is different from lysine and arginine, then at least two adjacent amino acids are chosen from lysine-lysine or arginine-arginine or lysine-arginine or arginine-lysine.

[0038] Preferably, the amino acids AA1, AA2, AA3 and AA3 are chosen independently from arginine, lysine, glycine, proline, alanine, valine, leucine, threonine, beta-alanine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, asparagine or methionine, preferably from arginine, lysine, glycine, proline, alanine, valine, leucine or threonine.

[0039] The amino acids AAb AA2, AA3 and AA; may be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL ​​configuration, preferably of L configuration.

[0040] More preferably, the amino acids AA2, AA3 and AA; are selected from L-arginine, L-lysine, glycine, L-proline, L-alanine, L-valine, L-leucine, L-threonine, beta-alanine, L-isoleucine, L-phenylalanine, L-asparagine or L-methionine, preferably from L-arginine, L-lysine, glycine, L-proline, L-alanine, L-valine, L-leucine or L-threonine.

[0041] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) P are selected from Leucine-Alanine-Lysine (LAK), Valine-Proline-Lysine (VPK), Glycine-Lysine-Arginine (GKR), Arginine-Proline-Arginine (RPR), Threonine-Lysine-Proline-Arginine (TKPR), Alanine-Lysine-Lysine (AKK), Valine-Lysine-Lysine (VKK), Arginine-Arginine-Arginine (RRR), Arginine-Lysine-Arginine-Arginine (RKRR), Arginine-Arginine-Lysine-Lysine-Proline (RRKKP), their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures.

[0042] According to a more preferred embodiment, the compound(s) P are selected from L-leucine-L-alanine-L-lysine (LAK), L-valine-L-proline-L-lysine (VPK), glycine-L-lysine-L-arginine (GKR), L-arginine-L-proline-L-arginine (RPR), L-threonine-L-lysine-L-proline-L-arginine (TKPR), L-alanine-L-lysine-L-lysine (AKK), L-valine-L-lysine-L-lysine (VKK), L-arginine-L-arginine-L-arginine (RRR), L-arginine-L-lysine-L-arginine-L-arginine (RKRR), L-arginine-L-arginine-L-lysine-L-proline (RRKKP), their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures.

[0043] The chemical synthesis of peptides can be carried out in solution or on a solid phase. The process consists of forming, in a directed and selective manner, an amide bond between an N-protected amino acid and an amino acid bearing a free amino group and a protected carboxyl group. In solid-phase synthesis, the carboxyl group's protecting group is bonded to a polymer support. After bond formation, the protecting group of the peptide's amino function is removed, and the next N-protected amino acid is coupled. Composition (C)

[0044] According to one embodiment, the compound(s) P are included in a composition (C).

[0045] Composition (C) preferably comprises a total content of compounds P ranging from 0.005% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, most preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C).

[0046] Composition (C) is a cosmetic composition, i.e. which comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium compatible with human keratin fibers.

[0047] Preferably, composition (C) comprises water. Composition (C) may, in addition to water, comprise at least one water-miscible solvent, preferably selected from ethanol, isopropanol, glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

[0048] Composition (C) may include, in addition to water, a solvent selected from C2-C4 alcohols, polyols, polyol ethers and mixtures thereof.

[0049] Preferably, composition (C) comprises water and optionally a solvent selected from ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0050] Composition (C) preferably comprises from 30% to 99.995% by weight of water, more preferably from 50% to 99.995% by weight of water.

[0051] The composition (C) may further comprise at least one cosmetic ingredient selected from non-ionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, fillers, film-forming polymers, cationic, anionic or neutral polymers, associative polymers, plasticizers, silicones, thickening agents, oils, antifoaming agents, moisturizing agents, emollients, penetration enhancers, perfumes, preservatives and mixtures thereof.

[0052] These common cosmetic ingredients may be present in the composition (C) in usual quantities, easily determinable by those skilled in the art, and which may range, for each ingredient, from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C). Those skilled in the art shall take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition (C), as well as their quantities, so as not to impair the properties of the composition (C).

[0053] Composition (C) may be in all the galenic forms conventionally used for hair application. By way of non-limitation, composition (C) may be in the form of a lotion, cream, mousse, gel, spray or hairspray.

[0054] Composition (C) can be used in rinsed or non-rinsed application.

[0055] Composition (C) may be in the form of a shampoo, a mask, a conditioning composition, or a pre-shampoo treatment. Composition (C) may also be in the form of a composition to be added or mixed before application to a shampoo, a mask, or a conditioning composition.

[0056] Composition (C) may be packaged in a pump bottle or in an aerosol container, in order to ensure application of composition (C) in spray form (lacquer) or in foam form. In these cases, composition (C) preferably comprises at least one propellant.

[0057] The composition pH (C) is preferably between 3.5 and 6.5, more preferably between 3.5 and 5.5, even more preferably between 4 and 5, most preferably between 4.25 and 4.75. Preferably, the composition pH (C) is equal to 4. The pH can be adjusted using an organic or mineral acid or an organic or mineral base commonly used in cosmetics.

[0058] Composition (C) can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers, preferably to wet keratin fibers.

[0059] Preferably, the keratin fibers are damaged and / or sensitized keratin fibers, in particular damaged and / or sensitized hair.

[0060] The bath ratio of the composition applied to the keratin fibers can range from 0.01 to 10. As an example, the bath ratio can be 0.4. By bath ratio, we mean the ratio between the total weight of the applied composition and the total weight of keratin fibers to be treated.

[0061] The process may include at least one additional step a') of washing the keratin fibers prior to or simultaneous with step a), preferably prior to step a), and / or at least one additional step subsequent to step a) chosen from the following steps b) to d): b) a step of applying the composition (C) to the keratin fibers, preferably lasting at least 10 seconds, said application step possibly being carried out under an airtight film such as a papillote or plastic film; c) a rinsing and / or washing step of the keratin fibers; d) a step of drying the keratin fibers in ambient air or using a heating device.

[0062] Preferably, the process includes step a') as described above and additional steps b), c) and d) as described above and carried out in that order.

[0063] The composition setting step can have a duration ranging from 10 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably ranging from 30 seconds to 30 minutes, more preferably ranging from 30 seconds to 15 minutes.

[0064] The washing step a') or c) can for example be carried out using shampoo.

[0065] The temperature of the heating device can range from 45°C to 230°C, preferably from 45°C to 100°C, more preferably from 50°C to 80°C. A hair dryer, a heated helmet, an iron, or a heated brush can be used as a heating device, for example.

[0066] Step d) of drying can also be a combination of air drying or drying with a heating device at a temperature ranging from 50°C to 80°C such as a hair dryer or a heated helmet, possibly followed by a step of passing through the iron, preferably a straightening iron.

[0067] Steps a') and a) to c) or steps a') and a) to d) may be repeated as many times as necessary, and each cycle of steps a) to c) or a) to d) may be separated from the next by a few minutes to a few days or weeks. Different hair treatments of the invention may be performed between different application cycles, before or after.

[0068] In the case where the process does not include step c) of rinsing and / or washing the keratin fibers, the composition may, for example, include a solvent mixture such as a water / ethanol mixture comprising at least 10%, preferably at least 20%, and more preferably at least 30% by weight of ethanol. The use of such a mixture makes it possible, in particular, to facilitate the evaporation of the composition. Uses

[0069] According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to the use of one or more compounds P as defined above or of a composition (C) as defined above for the care of keratin fibers, preferably to give keratin fibers softness to the touch and / or a smooth feel and / or shine, more preferably to give softness to the touch and / or a smooth feel.

[0070] Preferably, the keratin fibers are damaged and / or sensitized keratin fibers, in particular damaged and / or sensitized hair.

[0071] According to a fourth aspect, the present invention relates to the use of one or more compounds P as defined above or of a composition (C) as defined above to prevent irreversible deformation of keratin fibers during combing and / or detangling.

[0072] Preferably, the keratin fibers are damaged and / or sensitized keratin fibers, in particular damaged and / or sensitized hair.

[0073] According to a fifth aspect, the present invention relates to the use of one or more compounds P as defined above or of a composition (C) as defined above to repair and / or prevent the breakage of keratin fibers.

[0074] Preferably, the keratin fibers are damaged and / or sensitized keratin fibers, in particular damaged and / or sensitized hair.

[0075]

[0076]

[0077]

[0078]

[0079] Examples The following examples help to better understand the invention, but are not intended to be limiting. Example 1 a. Preparation of compositions The following compositions Cl to Cl 1 were prepared from the ingredients mentioned in the table below. [Table 1] Composition Peptide - Mass NaOH INouHCl IN Distilled water Cl (Invention) LAK - 0.25g Qsp pH4 Qsp 10g C2 (Invention) VPK - 0.50g Qsp pH4 Qsp 10g C3 (Invention) GKR- 1.0g Qsp pH4 Qsp 10g C4 (Invention) RPR - 0.50g Qsp pH4 Qsp 10g C5 (Invention) TKPR - 2.0g Qsp pH4 Qsp 10g C6 (Invention) VKK- 1.0g Qsp pH4 Qsp 10g C7 (Invention) AKK - 0.48g Qsp pH4 Qsp 10g C8 (Invention) RRR-0.51g Qsp pH4 Qsp 10g C9 (Invention) RKRR - 0.45g Qsp pH4 Qsp 10g CIO (Invention) RRKKP - 0.40g Qsp pH4 Qsp 10g Eyelash (Comparison-Pla cebo) - Qsp pH4 Qsp 10g b. Evaluation of breakage and irreversible hair deformation

[0080] Compositions Cl to Cl 1 were applied to strands of hair according to the application protocol described below and the strands were evaluated with regard to their integrity, namely their resistance to breakage and irreversible deformation according to the test protocol described below. Application Protocol

[0081] Strands of dark brown hair (type II, see de La Mettrie R, et al. Shape variability and classification of human hair: A worldwide approach. Human Biology. 2007; 79: 265-281) are bleached by two successive bleachings, then washed with DOP shampoo and finally squeezed dry between the fingers (2 passes). The damp strands are placed on a flat surface, and compositions Cl to Cl 1 are applied separately to the strands with a bath ratio of 0.4 (i.e., 0.4 g of composition per 1 g of hair). The strands are then gently massaged with the fingers in circular motions along the length of the strand (2 times) and left to rest for 5 minutes. The strands are then rinsed under tap water for 10 seconds, squeezed dry, and then dried in an oven at 60°C (10 min / g of hair). These steps of shampooing, applying the formulas, rinsing and then drying are repeated to have 5 applications in total. Test protocol

[0082] The test consists of pulling on wet hair to see if the hair breaks, becomes irreversibly deformed, or deforms and then returns to its original shape and length. The test is commonly used by hairdressers to assess the integrity of their clients' hair. The test involves taking a strand of hair, soaking it in water for 30 seconds, and then taking and holding three hair fibers between the index finger and thumb of each hand (each hand holds one end of the fibers). The fibers are then placed under slight tension by moving the fingers and thumbs of each hand apart so that there are 3 centimeters of fiber between the hands, and then pulling to stretch the fibers an additional 1 cm. A ruler is used to ensure that the stretching distances are maintained. The fibers are held for 3 seconds, and then the tension is gently released. The fibers are placed horizontally on absorbent paper for 5 minutes to dry and then evaluated..

[0083] The test is carried out in parallel on 5 sets of 3 fibers, i.e. a total of 15 fibers.

[0084] The hair integrity performance is classified according to the following rules: • If the sum of irreversibly broken and deformed fibers is equal to or greater than 10, the hair has very poor integrity. • If the sum of irreversibly broken and deformed fibers is between 6 and 9 inclusive, the hair has poor integrity. • If the sum of irreversibly broken and deformed fibers is between 2 and 5 inclusive, the hair has good integrity. • If the sum of irreversibly broken and deformed fibers is 1 or less, the hair has very good integrity. Results of integrity measures

[0085] The results of the integrity measurements for each of the compositions Cl to Cl 1 tested are summarized in the table below.

[0086] [Tables2] Composition Number of broken fibers Number of irreversibly deformed fibers Comment on integrity Cl (Invention) 1 2 Good C2 (Invention) 0 2 Good C3 (Invention) 0 2 Good C4 (Invention) 0 3 Good C5 (Invention) 0 2 Good C6 (Invention) 0 2 Good C7 (Invention) 0 4 Good C8 (Invention) 0 3 Good C9 (Invention) 0 2 Good IOC (Invention) 0 1 Very good Cil (Comparative-P lacebo) 3 6 Poor

[0087] The results show that the compositions according to the present invention make it possible to prevent irreversible hair deformation and hair breakage. Example 2

[0088] a. Preparation of compositions

[0089] The following compositions C12 to C16 were prepared from the ingredients mentioned in the table below.

[0090] [Tables3] Composition Peptide - Mass (mg) - Concentration NaOH INor H Cl IN Distilled water C12 (Invention) LAK - 30mg (0.01M) Qsp pH4 Qsp 10g C13 (Invention) VPK - 34mg (0.01M) Qsp pH4 Qsp 10g C14 (Invention) TKPR - 58mg (0.01M) Qsp pH4 Qsp 10g C15 (Invention) AKK-35mg (0.01M) Qsp pH4 Qsp 10g C16 (Comparison - PI acebo) - Qsp pH4 Qsp 10g

[0091] b. Evaluation of the hydrophobicity of hair

[0092] The C12 to C16 compositions were applied to strands of hair according to the application protocol described below and the strands were evaluated with regard to their hydrophobicity according to the test protocol described below. Application Protocol

[0093] Strands of dark brown hair (type II, see de La Mettrie R, et al. Shape variability and classification of human hair: A worldwide approach. Human Biology. 2007; 79: 265-281) are washed with Elseve Dream Long shampoo (0.2 g of shampoo / g of hair). The strands are gently massaged with the fingers in circular motions along the length of the strand (twice) for a total of approximately 15 seconds, rinsed under running tap water for 60 seconds, and then squeezed dry between the fingers (twice along the length of the strand). The damp strands are placed on a flat surface, and compositions C12 to C16 are applied separately to the strands with a bath ratio of 0.2 (i.e., 0.2 g of composition per 1 g of hair). The strands are then gently massaged with the fingers in circular motions along the length of the strand (2 times) and then treated with Elseve Dream Long conditioner (0.1g of conditioner / g of hair).The strands are gently massaged with the fingers using circular motions. along the strand (2 times) for a total of about 15 seconds, rinsed under tap water for 15 seconds, squeezed between fingers (2 passes along the strand), combed and then dried in a dryer at 60°C (10 min / g of hair). Test protocol

[0094] The surface of natural hair is hydrophobic due to the presence of natural lipids, the most abundant of which is 18-methyleicosanoic acid. These surface lipids are attached to the epicuticle by a thioester bond, providing the natural hair with lubrication that facilitates detangling and styling. In damaged hair, environmental conditions (e.g., UV exposure) or exposure to cosmetic treatments (e.g., bleaching) can break these thioester bonds, leading to a loss of surface lipids, which are replaced by sulfonic acid groups. This makes the hair surface more hydrophilic and compromises its natural lubrication (Popescu and Höcker, Chem. Soc. Rev., 2007, 36, 1282-1291). Therefore, a highly desirable property of hair is the hydrophobicity of its surface.

[0095] After the cosmetic treatments described in the application protocol, the hair is gathered into 1.5 g strands by weighing using a precision balance (Perkin-Elmer). The strand is then cut into 3.5 cm long strips using razor blades. A plastic cable tie is attached to the middle of each strip to prevent the fibers from slipping.

[0096] The 3.5 cm wick is fixed in the sample holder of a Zwickiline Z2.5 mechanical testing machine (Zwick, Germany) equipped with a 100 Newton (N) measuring cell. The wick is immersed at a constant speed of 100 mm / min in a beaker filled with MilliQ® water. The water is changed between each measurement after the beaker has been thoroughly cleaned. The force required to fully immerse the wick in the water is recorded and plotted as a force / displacement curve. Upon entering the water, the wick resists immersion, causing an increase in the force exerted by the testing machine to maintain constant displacement. The area under this curve allows the total immersion energy to be determined.By subtracting the value measured for a cable tie alone, we obtain an immersion energy value that is correlated to the water contact angle on the hair surface, measured using the Willhelmy method (Neumann and Good, Techniques of Measuring Contact Angles, in Surface and Colloids Science, Vol. 11: Experimental Methods, 1979, Springer US, pp. 31-91). The impact of hair treatments on hydrophobic properties is determined by comparing the immersion energy for reference strands to the immersion energy for strands treated with the compositions according to the invention. The higher the immersion energy, the more hydrophobic the hair surface. Results of hydrophobicity measurements

[0097] The results of the hydrophobicity measurements for each of the C12 to C16 compositions tested are summarized in the table below.

[0098] [Tables4] Composition Immersion Energy (mJ) C12 (Invention) 0.0175 C13 (Invention) 0.0160 C14 (Invention) 0.0190 C15 (Invention) 0.0159 C16 (Comparative) 0.0105

[0099] The results show that the compositions according to the present invention improve the hydrophobicity of the fiber. Hair treated in this way is easier to style and detangle.

[0100] c. Evaluation of the smoothness to the touch – by the dry hair rubbing test

[0101] The C12 to C16 compositions were applied to strands of hair according to the application protocol described in paragraph b. above. Test protocol

[0102] The surface of a natural hair is perceived as smooth, i.e. with a low coefficient of friction, unlike that of a damaged hair which is perceived as rough, i.e. with a high coefficient of friction. Hair treatments that damage the hair, such as coloring and bleaching, are known to increase the hair's coefficient of friction. Therefore, the lower the coefficient of friction, the better the hair feels repaired and the easier it is to comb and detangle when dry.

[0103] During this test, a 3.5 cm long wick as prepared in paragraph b. above is fixed in the sample holder of a Zwickiline Z2.5 mechanical testing machine (Zwick, Germany) equipped with a 100 Newton (N) measuring cell. A normal force of 0.5 N is applied to the wicks using a clamp covered with disposable plastic foam. The foam is replaced after each Measurement. The testing machine imposes a constant speed of 100 mm / min to extract the hair strand from the gripper. During retraction, the force required to extract the hair strand is measured as a function of the displacement. The resulting force / displacement curve is characterized by a plateau at the end of the stroke, and the average force at this plateau is recorded. The impact of hair treatments on the friction properties is determined by comparing the average force at the plateau of reference hair strands to the average force at the plateau of treated hair strands.

[0104] For measurements in the dry state (dry friction force), the hair is conditioned at 25°C and 45% relative humidity.

[0105] Results of measurements of smoothness to the touch

[0106] The results of the measurements of the smoothness to the touch for each of the The C12 to C16 compositions tested are summarized in the table below.

[0107] [Tables5] Composition Friction Force (N) C12 (Invention) 0.330 C13 (Invention) 0.305 C14 (Invention) 0.347 C15 (Invention) 0.345 C16 (Comparative) 0.375

[0108] We observe lower friction forces on dry hair for hair treated by the process according to the present invention than for untreated hair. The hair surface is smoother. Treated hair is softer, easier to comb and detangle, than untreated hair.

Claims

Demands

1. A process for treating keratin fibers comprising a) applying to keratin fibers one or more compounds P or a composition (C) comprising them, the compound(s) P being selected from peptides whose sequence consists of 3 to 6 amino acids, the C-terminal end of the peptides being selected from lysine or arginine and / or the sequence of peptides comprising lysine-lysine or arginine-arginine or lysine-arginine or arginine-lysine, the N-acylated derivatives of these peptides, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.

2. A method for treating keratin fibers according to the preceding claim, wherein the compound(s) P are selected from the compounds of formula (I): AA1-AA2-(AAi)n-AA3 (I) Formula (I) in which: - AA1, AA2, AA3, and AAj, identical or different, denote an amino acid; - n denotes an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, or 3, preferably n is equal to 0 or 1; - when n is equal to 2 or 3, the amino acids AA1, AA2, AA3, or AA1 are identical or different; it being understood that: - at least one of the amino acids AA1, AA2, AA3, or AA1 is selected from lysine or arginine; and - if AA3 denotes lysine or arginine, then AA1, AA2, and AA1 denote any amino acid; and - if AA3 is different from lysine and arginine, then at least two adjacent amino acids are chosen from lysine-lysine or arginine-arginine or lysine-arginine or arginine-lysine.

3. A method according to the preceding claim, wherein the amino acids AA1, AA2, AA3 and AA3 are independently selected from arginine, lysine, glycine, proline, alanine, valine, leucine, threonine, beta-alanine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, asparagine or methionine, preferably from arginine, lysine, glycine, proline, alanine, valine, leucine or threonine.

4. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound(s) P are selected from Leucine-Alanine-Lysine (LAK), Valine-Proline-Lysine (VPK), Glycine-Lysine-Arginine (GKR), Arginine-Proline-Arginine (RPR), Threonine-Lysine-Proline-Arginine (TKPR), Alanine-Lysine-Lysine (AKK), Valine-Lysine-Lysine (VKK), Arginine-Arginine-Arginine (RRR), Arginine-Lysine-Arginine-Arginine (RKRR), Arginine-Arginine-Lysine-Lysine-Proline (RRKKP), their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.

5. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (C) comprises a total content of compounds P ranging from 0.005% to 25% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C).

6. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (C) comprises water, preferably from 30% to 99.995% by weight of water, preferably from 50% to 99.995% by weight of water.

7. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the pH of the composition (C) is between 3.5 and 6.5, preferably between 3.5 and 5.5, more preferably between 4 and 5, even more preferably between 4.25 and 4.75, most preferably the pH of the composition (C) is 4.

8. A method according to any one of the preceding claims further comprising at least one additional step a') of washing the keratin fibers prior to or simultaneous with step a), preferably prior to step a) and / or at least one additional step subsequent to step a) selected from the following steps b) to d): b) a step of applying the composition (C) to the keratin fibers, preferably of a duration of at least 10 seconds, said application step being optionally carried out under an airtight film such as foil or plastic film; c) a step of rinsing and / or washing the keratin fibers; d) a step of drying the keratin fibers in ambient air or with the aid of a heating device.

9. 9. Composition (C) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the pH of composition (C) is between 3.5 and 6.5, preferably between 3.5 and 5.5, more preferably between 4 and 5, even more preferably between 4.25 and 4.75, most preferably the pH of composition (C) is 4.

10. Use of one or more compounds P as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4 or of a composition (C) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 7 for the care of keratin fibers, preferably to impart to keratin fibers softness to the touch and / or a smooth feel and / or shine, more preferably to impart softness to the touch and / or a smooth feel.

11. Use of one or more compounds P as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4 or of a composition (C) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 7 to prevent irreversible deformation of keratin fibers during combing and / or detangling.

12. Use of one or more compounds P as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4 or of a composition (C) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 7 to repair and / or prevent breakage of keratin fibers.

13. 13. Use according to any one of claims 10 to 12, wherein the keratin fibers are damaged and / or sensitized keratin fibers.