Cosmetic composition comprising a cationic dextran and a glucamide, and cosmetic processing method

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, particularly for cleaning keratin fibers, comprising one or more cationic dextran polymers and one or more glucamide compounds. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method, preferably for cleaning and / or washing keratin materials, particularly hair, using said composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising a cationic dextran and a glucamide, and cosmetic processing method

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, particularly for hair, comprising specific cationic polymers in combination with specific nonionic surfactants. The invention also relates to a treatment method, particularly for washing, of keratinous materials, particularly hair, using said composition.

[0002] It is known to use liquid detergent hair compositions (or shampoos) for cleaning and / or washing hair. These compositions are based primarily on conventional surfactants, including anionic, non-ionic, and / or amphoteric surfactants, but generally anionic. These compositions are applied to wet hair, and the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands allows, after rinsing with water, the removal of various types of dirt initially present on the hair.

[0003] Among the anionic surfactants that could be used, sulfated surfactants, such as alkyl sulfate or alkyl ether sulfate salts, are particularly noteworthy. These surfactants are known to generate abundant foam, making it easy to remove dirt by dispersing it in water, and leading to a feeling of cleanliness.

[0004] In order to preserve natural resources, and in particular water, it is beneficial to offer formulations that reduce the amount of water required, especially during product use, particularly for rinsing. Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products—that is, products whose design and development take environmental issues into account—is becoming a major concern in order to contribute to addressing global challenges.

[0005] It is therefore essential to propose compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients that address these environmental challenges. In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or those with a high naturalness index and / or of natural origin, and more specifically of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds.

[0006] There is therefore a real need to offer cosmetic compositions that are easy to rinse off, particularly in order to save water during rinsing, while maintaining good performance properties such as good cleansing power. intrinsic and good quality of foam (abundance in particular), and on the other hand excellent cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of suppleness, detangling, smooth feel, cleaner and less loaded, of the treated hair.

[0007] It is possible to solve these problems and achieve these goals through the present invention, which relates in particular to a cosmetic composition comprising:

[0008] (i) one or more cationic dextran polymers, and

[0009] (ii) one or more glucamide compounds.

[0010] The composition according to the invention is particularly easy to rinse, notably thanks to the use of specific surfactants, replacing some or all of the usual sulfated surfactants. The composition according to the invention makes it possible to significantly reduce its environmental impact compared to a conventional washing composition, particularly in terms of water conservation.

[0011] Moreover, the composition according to the invention has good performance qualities, in particular allowing the generation of an adequate quantity of foam, of good quality, in particular exhibiting a nice creaminess (creamy foam).

[0012] In addition, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to give the treated hair good cosmetic properties: the hair is particularly supple, easy to detangle, smooth to the touch, while retaining a clean and unloaded feel.

[0013] In this description, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0014] - the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for it;

[0015] - the expression "between" is equivalent to the expression "ranging from" and can be used there to be substituted, and implies that the limits are included;

[0016] - by "keratinous materials" means keratinous fibers, and in particular the hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, skin, nails, mucous membranes or scalp;

[0017] - "keratin fibers" in this application means the fibers human keratin and more specifically hair. Cationic dextran

[0018] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more basic dextran (or dextran) polymers functionalized with one or more cationic groups; these polymers may be referred to in the remainder of this description as "cationic dextrans" or "cationic dextran polymers".

[0019] The cationic group(s) carried by the dextran polymer may be cationic groups and / or groups ionizable into cationic groups; advantageously, this or these groups are of the quaternary ammonium type.

[0020] The cationic dextrans according to the invention do not comprise an anionic group and / or a group ionizable into an anionic group. Furthermore, they are not siliconized (do not comprise a Si-O motif).

[0021] Dextran is a branched polymer of dextrose (or glucose); the glucose units are generally linked by alpha 1-6 bonds; the polymer also has branches generally made up of alpha 1-3 bonds.

[0022] It can in particular be represented in the following manner: a-L6

[0023] The cationic dextran polymer further carries one or more cationic functions, preferably of the quaternary ammonium type, generally linked to the dextran polymer by one of its pendant oxygen atoms.

[0024] Quaternary ammonium cationic functions are advantageously of the type

[0025] -OX-N+R1R2R3, A, in which:

[0026] O represents an oxygen atom during the dextran polymer,

[0027] X is a divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of the alkylene type, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group,

[0028] RI, R2, R3, identical or different, are hydrocarbon radicals, linear or branched, comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably methyl; and

[0029] A is a cosmetically acceptable counter-ion.

[0030] Preferably, Rl=R2=R3=methyl.

[0031] Preferably, A is a halide, in particular a chloride.

[0032] Preferably, X is a divalent hydroxylated radical, in particular a radical divalent hydroxypropyl (hydroxypropylene), preferably linear.

[0033] Preferred cationic dextran polymers are chosen from dextran polymers bearing quaternary ammonium cationic functions of the type:

[0034] -OX-N+(CH3)3, A- in which:

[0035] O represents an oxygen atom during the dextran polymer,

[0036] X is a divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of the alkylene type, linear or branched, comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group, and

[0037] A is a halide, in particular a chloride.

[0038] A particularly preferred cationic dextran polymer is represented by the following formula:

[0039] With R, independently of each other, representing H or a radical

[0040] -CH2CH(OH)CH2N+(CH3)3 Cl, at least one of the radicals R being different from H.

[0041] Special mention will be made of the polymer bearing the INCI name: DEXTRAN HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE.

[0042] Preferably, the cationic dextran polymer(s) have a weight average molecular weight (Mw) ranging from 1,000 to 3,000,000 daltons, better from 50,000 to 2,000,000 daltons, even better from 100,000 to 1,000,000 daltons, or even from 125,000 to 800,000 daltons.

[0043] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the cationic dextran polymer(s) in a total content of 0.01 to 10% by weight, better 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better 0.1 to 2% by weight, or even 0.15 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Glucamide compounds

[0044] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more glucamide compounds.

[0045] The glucamide compounds usable according to the invention are described in particular in patent applications WO 92 06154, US 5194639 and DE 44 43 645.

[0046] Preferably, the glucamide compounds are chosen from acyl-glucamides, preferably having a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms (including the carbon atom of the carbonyl group -C(O)-), better ranging from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, even better from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0047] Preferably, the glucamide compounds are chosen from acyl-methyl glucamides, preferably having a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms (including the carbon atom of the carbonyl group), better from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, even better from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0048] Preferably, the glucamide compounds are chosen from those with the following general formula (A): R, I r Gr " o

[0049] in which:

[0050] - the Gl-N group represents a glucamine (N being the nitrogen atom of the glucamine), - Ri represents a C1-C2 alkyl radical, preferably a methyl,

[0051] - R2 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical, in C3-C29, of preferably in C5-C19, better in C7-C13; possibly substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups -OH.

[0052] Preferably, glucamine (or Gl-N group) represents a monovalent radical CH2(OH)-CH(OH)-CH(OH)-CH(OH)-CH(OH)-CH2-N-.

[0053] Preferably, in formula (A) above:

[0054] - Ri represents a methyl group, and

[0055] - R2 represents a linear alkyl radical in C3-C29, preferably in C5-C19, better in C7-C13.

[0056] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least two glucamide compounds; preferably the composition according to the invention comprises two glucamide compounds.

[0057] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "glucamide" and "glucamine" encompass all of their respective isomers.

[0058] Among the glucamide compounds that can be used according to the invention, the following may be mentioned in particular, alone or in mixtures:

[0059] - myristoyl methylglucamide, lauroyl methylglucamide, capryloyl methylglucamide, caproyl methylglucamide, cocoyl methylglucamide, nonanoyl methylglucamide, oleyl methylglucamide, sunfloweroyl (sunfloweroyl) methylglucamide, oleoyl methylglucamide oleate, stearoyl methylglucamide stearate, tocopheryl methylglucamide succinate.

[0060] Glucomamide compounds selected from, alone or in mixtures, myristoyl methylglucamide, lauroyl methylglucamide, capryloyl methylglucamide, caproyl methylglucamide, cocoyl methylglucamide, nonanoyl methylglucamide, oleyl methylglucamide and sunfloweroyl (sunfloweroyl) methylglucamide are particularly preferred; and selected from, alone or in mixture, myristoyl methylglucamide, lauroyl methylglucamide, capryloyl methylglucamide, caproyl methylglucamide.

[0061] Among the mixtures of glucamide compounds, lauroyl / myristoyl methylglucamide and capryloyl / caproyl methylglucamide are particularly preferred.

[0062] Preferably, the total content of glucamide compound(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, and preferably from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] Preferably, the total content of glucamide compound(s) of formula (A) present in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, and preferably from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] Preferably, the total content of glucamide compounds selected from, alone or in mixture, myristoyl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl methyl glucamide, and caproyl methyl glucamide, in the composition shall be from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, and preferably from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional non-ionic surfactants

[0065] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may optionally include further one or more additional non-ionic surfactants, different from the glucamide compounds above, in particular such as those described in "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.

[0066] By way of examples of additional non-ionic surfactants, the following compounds may be cited, alone or in mixtures:

[0067] - alkyl(C8-C24)oxyalkylened phenols;

[0068] - C8-C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated or glycerol-based, preferably comprising one or two C8-C30 fatty chains;

[0069] - C8-C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated;

[0070] - C8-C30 acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols;

[0071] - C8-C30 acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and sorbitol esters preferably oxygenated;

[0072] - C8-C30 acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of (poly)glycerol;

[0073] - C8-C30 fatty acid and sucrose esters,

[0074] - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylated and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs, alkyl (C8-C30)(poly)glucoside esters,

[0075] - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated;

[0076] - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates.

[0077] The oxyalkylated motifs are more particularly oxyethylated, oxypropylated, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylated. The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene is preferably from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100; better from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol is in particular from 1 to 50, better from 1 to 10.

[0078] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactants according to the invention do not include oxypropylene motifs.

[0079] Preferably, they comprise a number of moles of ethylene oxide ranging from 1 to 250, in particular from 2 to 100, better from 2 to 50.

[0080] As an example of non-ionic glycerolated surfactants, preferred are mono- or polyglycerolated C8-C40 alcohols, comprising 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably 1 to 10 moles of glycerol.

[0081] Examples include lauryl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauryl alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleyl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol with 6 moles of glycerol.

[0082] Among glycerol alcohols, C8 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, C1 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, and C12 alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol are preferred in particular.

[0083] By way of example of C8-C30 acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and (poly)glycerol, C8-C30 acid esters, preferably C10-C24, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol, are used.

[0084] Non-ionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants may advantageously conform to the formula RlO-(R2O)t-(G)v in which:

[0085] - RI represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 atoms of carbon, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms; preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0086] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0087] - G represents a sugar motif comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably the glucose, fructose or galactose; even better, glucose;

[0088] -1 denotes a value from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, better still from 0 to 3, even better 0;

[0089] - v denotes a value from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization (v) being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0090] The glycosidic bonds between the sugar motifs are generally of type 1-6 or 1-4, preferably of type 1-4.

[0091] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant.

[0092] The additional non-ionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from, alone or in mixture:

[0093] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxygenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains, in particular at least one alkyl chain in C8-C20, in particular in C10-C18;

[0094] - C8-C30 acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of (poly)glycerol, in particular monoglyceryl oleate and / or polyglyceryl caprates, especially PG-4 caprate and / or glyceryl oleate;

[0095] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxygenated, and

[0096] - alkyl(C8-C3O)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylated, preferably comprising 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs.

[0097] Preferably, the additional non-ionic surfactant(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixture:

[0098] - C8-C30 acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of (poly)glycerol and

[0099] - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylated, preferably comprising 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs.

[0100] Most preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional non-ionic surfactants, which are advantageously selected from, alone or in mixture, C8-C30 acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and (poly)glycerol; preferably from monoglyceryl oleate and / or polyglyceryl caprates, especially PG-4 caprate and / or monoglyceryl oleate; even better monoglyceryl oleate.

[0101] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the additional non-ionic surfactant(s), when present, in a total content of 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0102] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the additional non-ionic surfactant(s) selected from, alone or in mixture, C8-C30 acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and (poly)glycerol; better from monoglyceryl oleate and / or polyglyceryl caprates, in particular PG-4 caprate and / or monoglyceryl oleate; even better monoglyceryl oleate, when present, in a total content of 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Anionic sulfate surfactants

[0103] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more anionic surfactants, in particular one or more sulfate (or sulfated) anionic surfactants.

[0104] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants, in particular one or more sulfate (or sulfated) anionic surfactants.

[0105] The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.

[0106] In the present description, an entity is qualified as "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium, pH for example) and not comprising a cationic charge.

[0107] In a manner known per se, anionic surfactants may comprise sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) groups (or functions), alone or in mixture.

[0108] For the purposes of the present invention, anionic sulfate surfactant is understood to be an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3), but not comprising a carboxylate function, nor a sulfonate function.

[0109] Anionic sulfate surfactants can thus be selected from, alone or in mixtures, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ethers sulfates, alkylamidoethers sulfates, alkylaryl polyethers sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; as well as salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds being able to be (poly)oxyalkylated, in particular (poly)oxyethylated and then preferably having from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0110] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohols.

[0111] Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0112] Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are preferably used, and in particular salts of sodium or magnesium.

[0113] Preferably, the anionic sulfate surfactants are selected from, alone or in mixtures:

[0114] - alkyl sulfates, especially in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10- C20, or even C10-C16, as well as their salts;

[0115] - alkyl ether sulfates, in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10-C20, or even in C10-C16, preferably comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs; as well as their salts;

[0116] said salts being in particular chosen from among the salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0117] Preferably, the anionic sulfate surfactant(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixture, alkali or alkaline earth metal salts of alkyl sulfates or alkyl ethers sulfates, in particular in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10-C20, or even in C10-C16; advantageously in C10-C20, or even in C10-C16; and in particular alkali or alkaline earth metal salts of lauryl sulfate or lauryl ethers sulfate, such as sodium lauryl sulfate or sodium lauryl ethers sulfate.

[0118] Advantageously, when present, the total content of sulfate anionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention can range from 2 to 25% by weight, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 8 to 18% by weight, even more preferably from 10 to 16% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0119] Advantageously, the total content of anionic sulfate surfactants selected from, alone or in mixture:

[0120] - alkyl sulfates, especially in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10- C20, or even C10-C16, as well as their salts;

[0121] - alkyl ether sulfates, in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10-C20, or even in C10-C16, preferably comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs; as well as their salts;

[0122] said salts being in particular chosen from alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol; in the composition according to the invention can range from 2 to 25% by weight, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 8 to 18% by weight, even more preferably from 10 to 16% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0123] The composition according to the invention may also include one or more anionic surfactants selected from sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) anionic surfactants. A mixture of these anionic surfactants may obviously be used.

[0124] It is understood in this description that:

[0125] - anionic carboxylate surfactants comprise at least one function carboxylic or carboxylate (-COOH or -COO ), and may possibly further include one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functions;

[0126] - anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), and may possibly include one or more additional sulfate functions, but do not include a carboxylate function.

[0127] The anionic carboxylic surfactants that may be used therefore include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO).

[0128] They may be selected from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, acylalaninates; acylisethionates, alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkylethercarboxylic acids, alkyl(aryl in C6-C30)ethercarboxylic acids, alkylamidoethercarboxylic acids; as well as the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds can be polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0129] C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and their salts, can also be used.

[0130] Among the carboxylic surfactants above, special mention may be made of polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, such as the compounds offered by the company KAO under the names AKYPO.

[0131] The polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1):

[0132] R1-(OC2H4)n-OCH2COOA (1)

[0133] in which:

[0134] - Ri represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a radical alkyl(C8-C9)phenyl, a radical R2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C2i alkyl or alkenyl radical;

[0135] preferably Ri is an alkyl radical in C8-C20, preferably in C8-Ci8, and aryl preferably designates phenyl,

[0136] - n is an integer or decimal (average value) ranging from 2 to 24, from preference from 2 to 10,

[0137] - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine residue or triethanolamine.

[0138] Mixtures of compounds of formula (1) can also be used, in particular mixtures of compounds having different Ri groups.

[0139] Particularly preferred polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are those of formula (1) in which:

[0140] - Ri designates an alkyl radical in Ci2-CM, cocoyl, lauroyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl,

[0141] - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

[0142] - n varies from 2 to 20, preferably 2 to 10.

[0143] Even more preferably, compounds of formula (1) are used in which Ri designates an alkyl radical in Ci2, A designates a hydrogen or sodium atom and n varies from 2 to 10.

[0144] Preferably, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are selected from, alone or in mixtures:

[0145] - acylglutamates, particularly in C6-C24, or even in C12-C20, such as stearoylglutamates and cocoyl glutamates, and in particular disodium cocoyl glutamate and disodium stearoylglutamate;

[0146] - acylalaninates, particularly in C6-C24, or even in C12-C20, such as cocoyl alaninates, and in particular sodium cocoyl alaninate;

[0147] - acylsarcosinates, particularly in C6-C24, or even in C12-C20, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, lauroylsarcosinates, cocoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate;

[0148] - acyllactylates, particularly in the C12-C28 or even C14-C24 range, such as behenoyllactylates and lauroyl lactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate and sodium lauroyl lactylate;

[0149] - C6-C24 acylglycinates; or even C2-C20 acylglycinates, such as cocoyl and lauroyl glycinates, and in particular sodium cocoyl glycinate and sodium lauroyl glycinate;

[0150] - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, and in particular alkyl(C12-C20) ethercarboxylates;

[0151] - polyoxyalkylened alkyl(C6-C24) (amido) ether carboxylic acids, in in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0152] in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0153] The anionic sulfonate surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3).

[0154] They may be selected from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds can be polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0155] Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are selected from, alone or in mixtures:

[0156] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, particularly C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates;

[0157] - C6-C24 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, in particular Ci2-C20;

[0158] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C20)acylisethionates, such as cocoyl and lauroyl isethionates, and in particular sodium cocoyl isethionate and sodium lauroyl isethionate;

[0159] in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0160] Advantageously, when present, the total content of anionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention can range from 2 to 25% by weight, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 8 to 18% by weight, and even more preferably from 10 to 16% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants

[0161] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

[0162] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

[0163] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) may in particular be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, possibly quatemized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0164] Examples include compounds with formulas (3), (4) and (5):

[0165] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO, M+, X (3)

[0166] in which:

[0167] - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

[0168] - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and

[0169] - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

[0170] - M+ represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such that sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine, and

[0171] - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as the one chosen among the halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent;

[0172] Ra -CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (4)

[0173] in which:

[0174] - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX';

[0175] - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2;

[0176] - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2- COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;

[0177] - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z' ;

[0178] - Z' represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as that sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0179] - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra-COOH of preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially in Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group.

[0180] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0181] As an example, we can cite cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

[0182] Ra-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (5)

[0183] in which:

[0184] - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z”;

[0185] - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent an alkyl radical or hydroxyalkyl in C1 to C4;

[0186] - Z” represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0187] - R, represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra—COOH of preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil;

[0188] - n and n', independently of each other, denotes an integer from 1 to 3.

[0189] Among the compounds of formula (5) we can mention the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

[0190] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) may also be selected from, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and alkyl(C8-C20)-amidoalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines.

[0191] Preferably, when present, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, compounds of formula (3) and compounds of formula (4) as defined above.

[0192] Better still, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from among the alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines such as cocobetaine, the alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

[0193] When present, the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0194] When present, the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) selected from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof, in the composition according to the invention, may range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic surfactants

[0195] The composition according to the invention may also include one or more cationic surfactants, preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, possibly polyoxyalkylated, or their salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0196] The term "fatty amine" means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, possibly (poly)oxyalkylated, or its salts and comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C8-C30. Said cationic surfactants are non-siliconized, that is to say they do not contain a Si-O group.

[0197] Preferably, the useful fatty amines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0198] Fatty amines include amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention can advantageously be chosen from among the fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain being able to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0199] Amidoamine is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0200] Fatty amidoamine is understood to be an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C3o hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0201] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0202] Among the fatty amidoamines according to the invention, particular mention may be made of amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R')2 in which:

[0203] - R represents a monovalent linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, linear or branched, or a C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably C7-C23, linear or branched;

[0204] - R' ' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 atoms of carbon, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better, 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.

[0205] Examples include the following fatty amidoamines: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and their mixtures.

[0206] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0207] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are not in quatemized form when introduced into the composition according to the invention (which does not exclude the fact that they may quatemize in situ).

[0208] Preferably, when present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention shall be 0.05 to 5% by weight, better 0.1 to 2% by weight, better still 0.2 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0209] Preferably, when present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) selected from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, possibly polyoxyalkylated, or their salts, and mixtures thereof, in the composition according to the invention, shall be 0.05 to 5% by weight, better 0.1 to 2% by weight, better still 0.2 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0210] Preferably, when present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from among the amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R')2, their salts, and their mixtures, in the composition according to the invention, is 0.05 to 5% by weight, better 0.1 to 2% by weight, better still 0.2 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Other ingredients

[0211] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents selected from C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; and mixtures thereof.

[0212] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises water, in particular in a total content of between 65 and 98% by weight, preferably between 70 and 95% by weight, preferably between 75 and 92% by weight, even better between 80 and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0213] The pH of the composition according to the invention generally varies from 3 to 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6, preferably from 4 to 5.5.

[0214] The invention further relates to a cosmetic treatment process, preferably for cleaning and / or washing keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers, especially human keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising a step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition as defined above.

[0215] Preferably, a step of rinsing the keratinous materials, for example with water, is implemented after the step of applying the composition according to the invention.

[0216] A drying step of the keratin materials may be provided in the process according to the invention, in particular after the rinsing step, in particular using a heating means such as a hair dryer.

[0217] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention but are not intended to be limiting. In these examples, quantities are expressed in grams of active substance (AS) unless otherwise stated. Example 1

[0218] Cosmetic compositions A according to the invention and B comparative are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below.

[0219] [Tables 1] Composition A (invention) B (comparative) Sodium laureth sulfate 13.5 13.5 Cocamidopropyl betaine 0.9 0.9 Lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide 1 1 Glyceryl oleate 0.4 0.4 Brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine 0.3 0.3 Dextran hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.3 - Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride - 0.3 Sodium chloride 0.15 0.15 Glutamic acid 0.1 0.1 Preservatives, perfumes Qs Qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100

[0220] Compositions are obtained that can be used as a rinse-off shampoo for washing hair. A / Evaluation of cosmetic performance

[0221] The cosmetic performance in terms of smoothness to the touch provided by compositions A and B is evaluated.

[0222] Each of compositions A and B was applied to wet hair strands (5.4 g strands, sensitized SA20), at a rate of 1.5 g of composition per gram of strand. The strands were rinsed without waiting time. The evaluation on wet hair was carried out.

[0223] A score of 0 was assigned to the strands treated with comparative composition B, and a score ranging from -3 to +3, in increments of 0.5, was assigned to the strands treated with composition A. The comparative evaluation was carried out blindly by 3 experts.

[0224] Each entire note corresponds to the following elements:

[0225] + / - 3: large difference

[0226] + / - 2: average difference

[0227] + / - 1: small difference

[0228] 0: equivalent (no difference).

[0229] Results are considered better when the score is positive, and worse when the score is negative.

[0230] The smoothness to the touch was assessed as follows: assessment by touch of the homogeneity of the hair from root to tip by taking a strand of hair at the root and sliding it between the fingers to the tips; the more uniform the sensation to the touch, the better the smoothness to the touch.

[0231] The following results are obtained (average of 3 scores):

[0232] [Tables2] Smooth touch A (invention) B (comparative) Expert 1 1.5 0 Expert 2 1.0 0 Expert 3 1.0 0 Average 1.2 0 Standard deviation 0.3 0

[0233] [Tables3] Clean touch (less loaded) A (invention) B (comparative) Expert 1 1.0 0 Expert 2 1.0 0 Expert 3 1.0 0 Average 1.0 0 Standard deviation 0 0

[0234] With the application of composition A according to the invention, it can be observed that the hair has a smoother feel, and also a more regular feel throughout the strand, compared with the comparative composition B. They have a less loaded, therefore cleaner, feel than the comparative strands. B / Evaluation of rinseability performance

[0235] To evaluate rinseability performance, three drops of artificial sebum were applied using a pipette to strands of hair (5.4 g, sensitized SA20) and distributed along the entire length of the strand. The strands were then wetted and towel-dried.

[0236] Then 0.25g of the composition to be tested was applied to the strand. The strand was then rinsed until the sensation to the touch of the strand no longer changed, i.e. when there was no more sebum on the strand.

[0237] The time required to rinse each strand was compared with that obtained with a reference shampoo (Garnier Fructis Aloe Hydrabomb). The shorter the rinsing time, the easier the rinsing.

[0238] Each expert (3 experts) assigned a score corresponding to the rinsing times, ranging from -3 to 3, in increments of 0.5, to the wicks to be evaluated, according to the same rating scale as described above. A score of 0 was assigned to the reference composition.

[0239] The following results are obtained:

[0240] [Tables4] Rinsability A (invention) B (comparative) Reference Expert 1 +1 -2.5 0 Expert 2 +1.5 -1.5 0 Expert 3 +1 -2 0 Average +1.2 -2 0 Standard deviation 0.3 0.5 0

[0241] It is observed that composition A according to the invention is easier to rinse than the comparative composition and the reference composition.

[0242] Hair washed with the composition according to the invention also exhibits better cosmetic properties, in particular a smoother feel, on wet hair, compared to comparative composition B.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition comprising: (i) one or more cationic dextran polymers, and (ii) one or more glucamide compounds.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the cationic dextran polymer bears one or more quaternary ammonium cationic functions, advantageously of the type -OX-N+R1R2R3, A, wherein: O represents a pendant oxygen atom of the dextran polymer, X is a divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of the alkylene type, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group, RI, R2, R3, identical or different, are hydrocarbon radicals, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably methyl; and A is a cosmetically acceptable counterion;in particular of the type -OX-N+(CH3)3, A- in which: 0 represents an oxygen atom pendant to the dextran polymer, X is a divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of the alkylene type, linear or branched, comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group, and A is a halide, in particular a chloride.;

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic dextran polymer is represented by the following formula, in which R, independently of each other, represents H or a -CH2CH(OH)CH2N+(CH3)3 Cf radical, at least one of the R radicals being different from H;

4.

5.

6.

7. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic dextran polymer bears the INCI name: DEXTRAN HYDROXYPRO-PYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the cationic dextran polymer(s) in a total content of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better 0.1 to 2% by weight, or even 0.15 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the glucamide compound(s) are selected from acyl-glucamides, preferably having a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 8 to 14 carbon atoms; preferably, the glucamide compounds are selected from acyl-methyl glucamides, preferably having a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 8 to 14 carbon atoms. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the glucamide compound(s) are selected from those of the following general formula (A): [Chem.l] in which: - the Gl-N group represents a glucamine (N being the nitrogen atom of the glucamine), - Ri represents a C1-C2 alkyl radical, preferably a methyl, - R2 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical, in C3-C29, preferably in C5-C19, better in C7-C13; optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups -OH; preferably selected from, alone or in mixture, myristoyl methylglucamide, lauroyl methylglucamide, capryloyl methylglucamide, caproyl methylglucamide, cocoyl methylglucamide, nonanoyl methylglucamide, oleyl methylglucamide, sunfloweroyl (sunfloweroyl) methylglucamide, oleoyl methylglucamide oleate, stearoyl methylglucamide stearate, tocopheryl methylglucamide succinate.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of glucamide compound(s) ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, and preferably from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more additional non-ionic surfactants, in particular selected from, alone or in mixture: - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains, in particular at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain, in particular C10-C18; - esters of C8-C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of (poly)glycerol, in particular monoglyceryl oleate and / or polyglyceryl caprates, in particular PG-4 caprate and / or glyceryl oleate;- esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated, and - alkyl(C8-C3o)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylenated, preferably comprising 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs; preferably chosen from, alone or in mixture, the esters of C8-C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of (poly)glycerol; better from monoglyceryl oleate and / or polyglyceryl caprates, in particular PG-4 caprate and / or glyceryl oleate; even better monoglyceryl oleate.

10. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more anionic surfactants, in particular one or more sulfate anionic surfactants, in particular selected from, alone or in mixture: - alkyl sulfates, in particular C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, even better C10-C20, or even C10-C16, and their salts; - alkyl ether sulfates, in C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, even better C10-C20, or even C10-C16, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs; and their salts; said salts being in particular selected from alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts, or amino alcohol salts.

11. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants; in particular selected from: (i) the compounds of the following formulas (3), (4) and (5): Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO , M+ , X (3) wherein: - Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; - M+ represents a cationic counter-ion from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine, and - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counter-ion, such as one chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate;or else M+ and X are absent; Ra -CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (4) in which:;

12. - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX'; - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2; - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2 COOH, CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom; - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z'; - Z' represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially in Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group. Ra-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (5) in which: - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z' '; - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical in C1 to C4; - Z” represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; - R, represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil; - n and n', independently of each other, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3. (ii) alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and alkyl(C8-C20)-amidoalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines; and in particular cocobetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic surfactants, preferably selected from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylated, or their salts, and mixtures thereof; in particular from fatty amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R')2 in which: - R represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, or a linear or branched C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably C7-C23; - R' ' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still, 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising water, in particular in a total content of between 65 and 98% by weight, preferably between 70 and 95% by weight, preferably between 75 and 92% by weight, even better between 80 and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. A cosmetic treatment process, preferably for cleaning and / or washing keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers, especially keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising a step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13.