CLEANSING AND / OR CARE COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS MATERIALS

The composition with Tephrosia purpurea extract and anionic surfactants addresses hair loss and scalp irritation, enhancing hair texture and volumization.

FR3163867A3Active Publication Date: 2026-01-02LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2024008413
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Utility models
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2024-06-26
Filing Date
2024-07-30
Publication Date
2026-01-02
Estimated Expiration
2034-07-30

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Conventional hair and scalp treatments fail to deliver a good volumized appearance, reduce hair loss, and improve smooth texture and detangling while causing scalp irritation and excessive coating deposits.

Method used

A composition comprising Tephrosia purpurea seed extract, anionic surfactants, niacinamide, and optional amphoteric and cationic polymers, which soothe the scalp, reduce hair loss, and enhance hair texture.

Benefits of technology

The composition improves hair smoothness, detangling, and volumization while reducing hair loss and soothing the scalp, with good foaming performance.

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Abstract

CLEANSING AND / OR CARE COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS MATERIALS The present invention relates to a cleansing and / or care composition for keratinous materials, comprising: a) at least one extract of Tephrosia purpurea seed; b) at least one anionic sulfate-type surfactant; and c) niacinamide and / or one of its derivatives. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for cleansing and / or caring for keratinous materials, comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous materials. Figure for the abstract: none
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Description

Title of the invention: CLEANSING AND / OR CARE COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS MATERIALS technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition and its use. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for cleansing and / or caring for keratinous materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for cleansing and / or caring for keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Hair loss in young people is a common problem that is usually triggered by stress, unhealthy lifestyle habits, and emotional disturbances. One of the main biochemical markers associated with stress-induced hair loss is cortisol, a hormone that can be activated by emotional stress. Elevated cortisol levels can lead to systemic and localized increases in the scalp, which in turn can cause follicular inflammation and further damage to hair follicles, ultimately resulting in hair loss.

[0003] Furthermore, the washing and rinsing stage is a critical time for observing hair loss. Intense friction, rubbing, and massaging during washing easily cause significant hair loss from the root and breakage of the hair fibers. In particular, when consumers comb their hair or run their fingers through it during rinsing, they readily notice numerous hair fibers left on the comb or their fingers.

[0004] Conventional hair and scalp treatments are typically designed to target hair fibers, providing a smooth texture and ease of detangling using cationic polymers. Excessive coating deposits on the fibers due to these conditioning polymers easily lead to flat hair and an oily scalp, along with scalp irritation and discomfort.

[0005] Some anti-hair loss products are not satisfactory in terms of soothing the scalp.

[0006] Thus, there is a need for products for the cleansing and / or care of keratinous materials, such as hair and / or scalp, which can deliver a good volumized appearance to the hair, soothe the scalp, reduce hair loss, while improving the smooth texture and detangling of the hair. Summary of the invention

[0007] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop compositions for the cleaning and / or care of keratinous materials, which can deliver a good volumized appearance to the hair, soothe the scalp, reduce hair loss, while improving the smooth texture and detangling of the hair.

[0008] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous materials, comprising: a. at least one extract of tephrosia purpurea seed; b. at least one anionic surfactant of the sulfate type; and c. niacinamide and / or one of its derivatives.

[0009] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic process for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous materials.

[0010] The inventors have discovered that the composition according to the present invention can improve the smooth texture and detangling of hair, and effectively combat hair loss.

[0011] The inventors also discovered that the composition according to the present invention can deliver a good volumized appearance to the hair and soothe the scalp.

[0012] The inventors have further discovered that the composition according to the present invention exhibits good foaming performance.

[0013] Other subjects, features, aspects, and advantages of the present invention will be presented in the following description and will be partly evident from the description or may be learned through practice of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0014] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between... and..." and "from... to...".

[0015] As used herein, the term "including" should be interpreted as encompassing all the features specifically mentioned as well as those optional, additional, unspecified.

[0016] As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the features specifically mentioned are present (i.e., * consisting of").

[0017] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention. When the definition of a term in this description is in conflict with the meaning commonly accepted by a person skilled in the art to which the present invention relates, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0018] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Accordingly, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​that may be modified according to the desired performance as required.

[0019] As used herein, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0020] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratinous materials" includes keratinous fibers, such as hair, and skin, such as the scalp.

[0021] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises: a. at least one extract of tephrosia purpurea seed; b. at least one anionic surfactant of the sulfate type; c. niacinamide and / or one of its derivatives. Tephrosia purpurea seed extracts

[0022] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one extract of tephrosia purpurea seed.

[0023] Tephrosia purpurea seed extract belongs to the wild indigo extracts. A specific extraction of the seeds of this plant was carried out to obtain a condensate enriched in specific sugars, such as stachyose and ciceritol. This proprietary extract has demonstrated its unique biological capabilities to interrupt the production of cortisol by skin cells, to activate the release of a natural calming neuropeptide that acts on mood, and to visibly improve complexion within two weeks.

[0024] The material is commercially available from Givaudan SA under the brand name Neurophroline®.

[0025] Advantageously, the extract of tephrosia purpurea seed is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.0001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.001% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Anionic sulfate-type surfactants

[0026] The composition includes at least one anionic surfactant of the sulfate type.

[0027] It is understood that, in the present description, sulfate-type anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3), but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate function.

[0028] They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also from the salts of these compounds;

[0029] - the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 28, more preferably from 14 to 24, even more preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0030] - these compounds preferably being polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and therefore preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs and more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0031] Preferably, anionic sulfate-type surfactants are chosen, alone or in combination, from among:

[0032] - C6-C24 alkyl sulfates and preferably C12-C20 alkyl sulfates,

[0033] - alkyl ether sulfates, preferably C6-C24 or more preferably in C12-C20, preferably comprising 2 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs;

[0034] preferably in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

[0035] When the sulfate-type anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be selected from alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts and, in particular, amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium salt.

[0036] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be cited include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0037] Salts of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal and, in particular, sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.

[0038] Preferably, the anionic surfactant is chosen from sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and one of their combinations.

[0039] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 40% by weight, more preferably from 3% by weight to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Niacinamide and / or its derivatives

[0040] The composition of the present invention comprises niacinamide and / or its derivatives.

[0041] Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is a compound of formula (I) next:

[0042] Niacinamide derivatives that may be cited include, for example, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl alcohol, nicotinuric acid, nicotinylhydroxamic acid, nicotinic acid esters such as tocopherol nicotinate, amides derived from niacinamide by substitution of the hydrogen of -CONH2, products from a reaction with carboxylic acids and amino acids, esters of nicotinyl alcohol and carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid or palmitic acid.Other niacinamide derivatives include: 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N,N-dimethylnicotinamide, N-(hydroxymethyl)nicotinamide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol and niaprazine, methyl nicotinate and sodium nicotinate.

[0043] Advantageously, niacinamide and / or its derivatives are present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.001% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.002% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.005% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0044] The inventors discovered that the compound chosen from niacinamide and its derivatives can promote the ability of a tephrosia purpurea seed extract to prevent and / or reduce hair loss. Amphoteric surfactants

[0045] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant.

[0046] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant is chosen from betaines, (C8-C2o alkyl)betaines, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(Ci-C6 alkyl)betaines, and mixtures thereof.

[0047] In particular, we can cite, as betaines, the (alkyl in C8-C2o)betaines, such as cocobetaine, like the product sold under the name Dehyton AB-30® by the company Cognis, laurylbetaine, like the product sold under the name Genagen KB® by the company Clariant.

[0048] Examples of (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(Cl-C6 alkyl)betaines include cocamidopropylbetaine, sold under the name Lebon 2000 HG® by Sanyo or under the name Empigen BB® by Albright & Wilson, and lauramidopropylbetaine, sold under the name Rewoteric AMB12P® by Witco.

[0049] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant is chosen from among the (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C6-Cl alkyl)betaines, and more preferably from among the (C12-C20 alkyl)amido(C6-Cl alkyl)betaines. Most preferably, the amphoteric surfactant is cocamidopropylbetaine.

[0050] Advantageously, the amphoteric surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic polymer(s)

[0051] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one cationic polymer.

[0052] Preferably, the cationic polymer may comprise monomer motifs derived from a monomer substituted with a quaternary amine and / or ammonium and / or compatible spacer monomers.

[0053] Suitable cationic polymers include, for example: copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and l-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salt (e.g., chloride salt) (called Polyquaternium-16) such as those commercially available from BASF under the brand name LUVIQUAT (e.g., LUVIQUAT FC 370); copolymers of l-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (called Polyquaternium-11) such as those sold by Gar Corporation (Wayne, NJ, USA) under the brand name GAFQUAT (e.g., GAFQUAT 755N); and a cationic polymer containing a quaternary diallylammonium including, for example, a homopolymer of dimethyldiallyammonium chloride and the copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallyammonium chloride (called Polyquatemium-6 and Poly quaternium-7).

[0054] Other cationic polymers that can be used include polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives and starch derivatives Cationic. Cationic cellulose may be available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) in their Polymer JR (registered trademark) and LR (registered trademark) polymer lines, in the form of hydroxyethylcellulose salts that have reacted with a trimethylammonium substituted epoxide (called Polyquatemium-10). Another type of cationic cellulose includes quaternary ammonium polymeric salts of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with a lauryldimethylammonium substituted epoxide (called Polyquatemium-24). These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) under the Polymer LM-200 brand. In addition, or as an alternative, revitalizing cationic polymers may include, or be selected from, cationic guar gum derivatives, such as hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride.

[0055] Preferably, the cationic polymer is chosen from among the polyquatemiums.

[0056] More preferably, the cationic polymer is chosen from polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-3, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-12, polyquaternium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, polyquaternium-21, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-23, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-25, polyquaternium-26, the polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-29, polyquaternium-30, polyquaternium-40, polyquaternium-41, polyquaternium-42, polyquaternium-43, polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-45, polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-48, polyquaternium-49, polyquaternium-50, polyquaternium-51, polyquaternium-52,polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-54, polyquaternium-55, polyquaternium-56, polyquaternium-57, polyquaternium-58, polyquaternium-59, polyquaternium-60, polyquaternium-61, polyquaternium-62, polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65, polyquaternium-66, polyquaternium-67, and any combination thereof.

[0057] Most preferably, the cationic polymer is polyquaternium-67.

[0058] Advantageously, the cationic polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.08% by weight to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, and most preferably from 0.15% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty compounds

[0059] Preferably, the composition comprises a fatty compound selected from C12-C22 fatty alcohols and C12-C22 fatty acids.

[0060] The term "fatty compound" refers to organic compounds that are insoluble in water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility less than 5%, preferably 1%, and more preferably 0.1%). Furthermore, fatty compounds are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for example, chloroform, ethanol, benzene, and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0061] The fatty alcohols that can be used in the composition of the invention can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. Examples include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, heptadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0062] The fatty acid that can be used in the composition of the invention can be linear or branched and comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Examples include stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid and mixtures thereof.

[0063] Preferably, the fatty compound is chosen from C14-C20 fatty alcohols and C14-C20 fatty acids.

[0064] More preferably, the fatty compound is chosen from among the C14-C18 fatty alcohols.

[0065] In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises cetearyl alcohol.

[0066] Advantageously, the fatty compound is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.4% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Water

[0067] The composition of the present invention may further include water.

[0068] Advantageously, water is preferably present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 50% by weight to 98% by weight, preferably from 60% by weight to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. cosmetic active ingredients

[0069] Optionally, the composition of the present invention includes one or more additional active ingredients for revitalizing and / or caring for keratinous materials.

[0070] A person skilled in the art can select the quantity of additional active ingredients according to the desired objective. Adjuvants

[0071] The composition according to the present invention may also include additional adjuvants, such as perfumes, preservatives, etc.

[0072] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional adjuvants so that it does not have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0073] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a hair treatment composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. from 0.001% by weight to 3% by weight of tephrosia purpurea seed extract; b. from 3% by weight to 30% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant of the sulfate type chosen from among the C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; c. from 0.005% by weight to 8% by weight of niacinamide; d. from 0.3% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from among the (alkyl in C12-C20)amido(alkyl in C1-C6)betaines; and e. from 0.15% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one cationic polymer chosen from among the polyquaterniums.

[0074] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a hair treatment composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0075] a) from 0.001% by weight to 3% by weight of tephrosia purpurea seed extract;

[0076] b) from 4% by weight to 30% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant of type sulfate chosen from among the C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates;

[0077] c) from 0.005% by weight to 8% by weight of niacinamide; and

[0078] f) from 0.4% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one fatty compound selected from the C14-C18 fatty alcohols.

[0079] The inventors also discovered that the composition according to the present invention can also improve the lifting of the hair root and give a good volumized appearance to the hair. Preparation and use

[0080] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients a) and b), as essential ingredients, together with one or more additional ingredients, as explained above.

[0081]

[0082]

[0083]

[0084]

[0085]

[0086]

[0087]

[0088]

[0089]

[0090]

[0091]

[0092] The method and means for mixing the essential and optional ingredients described above are not limited. Any conventional method and means may be used to mix the essential and optional ingredients described above in order to prepare the composition according to the present invention. The composition of the present invention may be a shampoo. The composition of the present invention can provide hair with a good smooth texture and good detangling in order to reduce hair loss, and it can also provide a voluminous appearance to the hair. According to the second aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic process for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous materials. EXAMPLES The following examples are given as non-limiting illustrations of the present invention. The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1. [Table 1] [Tables 1] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier Sodium Laureth Sulfate TEXAPON AOS 225 UP BASF Cocamidopropyl Betaine DEHYTON PK 45 BASF Polyquaternium-67 POLYQUATERNIUM-67 BASF Niacinamide NIACINAMIDE PC DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract NEUROPHROLINE GIVAUDAN Cetearyl Alcohol LANETTE O BASF Examples 1 to 3 of the invention and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 The compositions of examples of the invention (EL) 1 to 3 and comparative examples (EC.) 1 to 3 were prepared according to the quantities of ingredients given in Table 2. The quantity of each ingredient is given as % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated, MA means active substance. [Table 2] Table #2 Components El. 1 El. 2 EL 3 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 Sodium laureth sulfate 11 (MA) 14 (MA) 6 (MA) 11 (MA) - 11 (MA) Cocamidopropyl bét 4 2 4 4 4 4 aine (MA) (MA) (MA) (MA) (MA) (MA) T ephrosia purpurea seed extract 0.045 0.005 0.045 - 0.045 0.045 Niacinamide 3 1 2 3 3 - Polyquatemium-67 0.2 0.2 - 0.2 0.2 0.2 Cetearyl alcohol - - 0.5 - - - Water QSP100 QSP100 QSP100 QSP100 QSP100 QSP100

[0093] * QSP100 denotes a quantity sufficient to complete to 100%.

[0094] The compositions of examples 1 to 3 of the invention are compositions according to the present invention.

[0095] The composition of comparative example 1 does not include Tephrosia purpurea seed extract.

[0096] The composition of comparative example 2 does not include anionic surfactant of the sulfate type.

[0097] The composition of comparative example 3 does not include niacinamide and / or its derivatives.

[0098] Preparation procedure:

[0099] Each composition was prepared as follows: 1. Add polyquatemium-67 or cetearyl alcohol to room temperature water in a main container while stirring to obtain a homogeneous mixture; 2. Add sodium laureth sulfate (if applicable) to the main container while stirring; 3. Add the Tephrosia purpurea seed extract (if applicable) and niacinamide (if applicable) to the main container while stirring; and 4. Add the cocamidopropyl betaine to the main container. Assessment#: Foaming properties

[0100] The foaming properties of examples 1 and 2 of the invention and comparative example 1 were evaluated by a foam analysis with a kitchen mixer (PHILIPS HR2056) as follows.

[0101] 76 g of French hardness water (fH) (111 mg of CaCl2 dissolved in 1 L of DI water) and 4 g of the test sample were introduced into the kitchen blender under stirring for 60 s. Then, the liquid with the foams obtained was poured from the mixer into the graduated cylinder, and the instantaneous total volume and the total volume after 5 minutes of rest were recorded and summarized in Table 3.

[0102] [Table 3]

[0103] [Tables3] Total foam volume El. 1 El. 2 EC. 2 Instantaneous total foam volume (ml) 580 565 320 Total foam volume after 5 minutes (ml) 540 538 278

[0104] It can be seen from Table 3 that the composition of the present invention has a good foaming property. Smooth texture and detangling

[0105] The smooth texture and detangling of the hair during rinsing provided by each composition prepared above were evaluated as follows:

[0106] 1) Invitation of 20 fully trained sensory experts to participate in the trial. The Experts have been thoroughly trained in the sensory evaluation of shampoos, using over 50 different types of shampoos with varying performance levels. They are able to rate the performance of each sensory control point (such as smoothness, detangling, etc.) on a scale of 0 to 10, where 0 represents the lowest performance for that control point and 10 represents the highest performance.

[0107] 2) instruction given to experts to use each composition of examples 1 to 3 of the invention and comparative examples 1 to 3 by following the steps below:

[0108] - application of 12 g of the composition over the entire head of hair;

[0109] - massage for 2 minutes;

[0110] - rinsing of the composition;

[0111] - blowing on the hair to dry it completely;

[0112] 3) then, the smooth texture and detangling of the hair delivered by each composition were rated by sensory experts according to the training standard and the scores were averaged for each composition.

[0113] The results are summarized in Table 4.

[0114] [Table 4]

[0115] [Tables4] Properties El. 1 El. 2 El. 3 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 Smooth hair texture 7 7 8 4 4 5 Hair detangling 6 7 6 5 3 4

[0116] It can be seen from Table 3 that each composition of Examples 1 to 3 of the invention can deliver a good smooth texture and good detangling of the hair.

[0117] Resistance to hair loss, hair volumization and scalp soothing

[0118] Each composition prepared above was evaluated in terms of resistance to hair loss, hair volumizing appearance and scalp soothing according to the following consumer testing protocols:

[0119] 1) Recruitment of 30 young women (subjects), aged 22 to 35, who declared they themselves have a hair loss problem;

[0120] 2) division of young women into 5 groups (6 subjects / group);

[0121] 3) instructions given to subjects to use each composition of examples 1 to 3 of the invention and comparative examples 1 to 3 every day at home for two weeks, the instructions for use being the following protocol:

[0122] - application of 12 g of the composition to the entire head of hair and scalp hairy;

[0123] - massage for 2 minutes;

[0124] - rinsing of the composition;

[0125] - blowing on the hair to dry it completely;

[0126] 4) after 2 weeks of use, collection of feedback from subjects via a questionnaire based on their user experience during the trial period with the following questions:

[0127] - I experience less hair loss during hair washing than before;

[0128] - My scalp is more soothed than before;

[0129] - My hair has more volume than before.

[0130] The answers to the questions were given according to the following scoring standard, and the scores for each composition were averaged.

[0131] 5 means very likely.

[0132] 4 means probable.

[0133] 3 means no difference.

[0134] 2 means unlikely.

[0135] 1 means very unlikely.

[0136] The results are summarized in Table 5.

[0137] [Table 5]

[0138] [Tables5] Properties El. 1 El. 2 El. 3 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 Hair loss resistance 4.8 3.8 4.8 3.5 2.7 3.0 Hair volumization appearance X 4.5 4.0 4.0 3.5 2.0 3.5 Scalp soothing 4.8 4.0 4.5 3.8 2.2 2.5

[0139] It can be seen from Table 5 that each composition of Examples 1 to 3 of the invention can deliver a good volumized appearance to the hair, soothe the scalp and demonstrate resistance to hair loss.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably for cleansing and / or conditioning keratinous materials, comprising: a) at least one extract of tephrosia purpurea seed; b) at least one anionic surfactant of the sulfate type; and c) niacinamide and / or one of its derivatives.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein tephrosia purpurea seed extract is present in an amount from 0.0001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.001% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the anionic surfactant of the sulfate type is selected from: - C6-C24 alkyl sulfates and preferably C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; - C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates and preferably C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; preferably in the form of alkali metal salts, such as sodium, or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts, or amino alcohol salts. More preferably, the anionic surfactant is selected from sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and combinations thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the niacinamide derivative is selected from 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N,N-dimethylnicotinamide, N-(hydroxymethyl)nicotinamide, quinolinenic acid imide, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol, niaprazine, methyl nicotinate, sodium nicotinate.

5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, further comprising at least one amphoteric surfactant, preferably betaines, (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(Ci-C6 alkyl)betaines, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from (Ci2-C20 alkyl)amido(alkyl

6.

7. in Ci-C6)betaines, even more preferentially, the amphoteric surfactant is cocamidopropylbetaine. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, further comprising at least one cationic polymer, preferably the cationic polymer being selected from polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-3, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-12, polyquaternium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, polyquaternium-21, polyquaternium-22, the polyquatemium-23, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-25, polyquaternium-26, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-29, polyquaternium-30, polyquaternium-40, polyquaternium-41, polyquaternium-42, polyquaternium-43, polyquatemium-44,polyquaternium-45, polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-48, polyquaternium-49, polyquaternium-50, polyquaternium-51, polyquaternium-52, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-54, polyquaternium-55, polyquaternium-56, polyquaternium-57, polyquaternium-58, polyquaternium-59, polyquaternium-60, polyquaternium-61, polyquaternium-62, polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65, polyquaternium-66, polyquaternium-67, and one of their combinations, more preferably the cationic polymer is polyquaternium-67. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising a fatty compound selected from C12-C22 fatty alcohols and C12-C22 fatty acids, preferably selected from C14-C20 fatty alcohols and C14-C20 fatty acids, more preferably selected from C14-C18 fatty alcohols, preferably in an amount from 0.05% by weight to 20% by weight,preferably from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% by weight to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.4% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, in relation to the total weight of the composition: a) 0.001% to 3% by weight of tephrosia purpurea seed extract; b) 3% to 30% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant selected from the C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; c) 0.005% to 8% by weight of niacinamide; d) 0.3% to 8% by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from the (Ci2-C20 alkyl)amido(Ci-C6 alkyl)betaines; and e) 0.15% to 2% by weight of at least one cationic polymer selected from the polyquatemiums.

9. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, in relation to the total weight of the composition: a) 0.001% by weight to 3% by weight of tephrosia purpurea seed extract; b) 4% by weight to 30% by weight of at least one anionic sulfate-type surfactant selected from C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; c) 0.005% by weight to 8% by weight of niacinamide; and f) 0.4% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one fatty compound selected from C14-C18 fatty alcohols.

10. Non-therapeutic method for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous materials, comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to keratinous materials.