Camelina-based hair composition

Abstract

A cosmetic hair composition, characterized in that it comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, as a cosmetic active ingredient of natural origin, camelina flour obtained from defatted seeds of a plant of the genus Camelina, preferably of the sativa species.

Description

Title of the invention: Camelina-based hair composition

[0001] The present invention falls within the field of cosmetic products.

[0002] The invention relates particularly to a hair cosmetic composition, such as for example a shampoo, a mask or a cream for hair use.

[0003] The present invention also relates to a hair fiber regeneration process involving the application of a hair cosmetic composition of the invention.

[0004] Such a composition will find particular application in the care of human hair.

[0005] Hair consists of two parts: the hair shaft and the root.

[0006] The root, also called the "bulb", implanted in the scalp, is not visible and is part of the hair follicle.

[0007] The hair shaft, also called the "hair fiber", the visible part of the hair, is composed of three concentric layers: the cuticle, then the cortex, and the medulla which is more in the center.

[0008] The cuticle is an outer protective layer, rich in keratin, composed of scale-like cells that overlap each other, responsible for the shine, strength and silky appearance of the hair.

[0009] The cortex is the intermediate layer, representing 80% of the hair. It is made up of several layers of keratin cells, held together by intercellular cement rich in lipids and proteins. The cortex gives the hair its structure and color, while the long keratin chains that compose it give the hair its elasticity, suppleness, and strength.

[0010] The medulla is the central layer of the hair shaft.

[0011] There is a natural element of hair protection, namely the hydrolipidic film.

[0012] The hydrolipidic film covers the surface of the hair and scalp. It is a protective film rich in sebum that protects the hair. The hydrolipidic film protects the hair shaft by preventing the penetration of foreign substances such as UV rays and pollution, and by regulating hydration, that is, the ability of the hair shaft to remain saturated with water.

[0013] Healthy hair is composed of 95% keratin. Keratin is a helical protein made up of chains of 18 amino acids, responsible for the exceptional mechanical and structural strength of the hair fiber. Keratin is concentrated in the cuticle in the form of overlapping scales oriented towards the tip of the hair.

[0014] Nowadays, environmental impact and aggressions, such as pollution, UV, mechanical brushing, coloring, straightening, alter the hair by making it dry, damaged, brittle and weakening its protein content.

[0015] These aggressions damage and eliminate the hydrolipidic film, which no longer performs its role as a barrier to the cuticle. The cuticle protects the cortex, which must remain intact for the hair to retain its structural strength.

[0016] Consequently, with a damaged hydrolipidic film, the exposed keratin degrades. Thus, the hair scales lift and separate from each other, exposing the inside of the hair, i.e., the cortex.

[0017] With the lifting and separation of the cuticles, the water naturally internalized in the hair evaporates and dries out the hair, resulting in a rigid and brittle fiber due to structural degradation of its constituent proteins. The physicochemical and molecular components of the cortex become depleted of water molecules, which stiffens the hair fiber at its core and breaks down the proteins, particularly the keratin chains responsible for the hair's elasticity and strength.

[0018] More specifically, located beneath the cuticle, the keratin fibers, responsible for the strength and elasticity of the hair, contain specific chemical bonds such as SS bonds (disulfide bridges) or CS bonds. When these fibers are damaged, the hair loses its resistance and supple texture. The damaged keratin chains that make up the hair break, and the hair becomes porous. After the destruction of the keratin in the cuticle and cortex, the hair breaks at its core, thins, develops split ends, and loses its silky appearance.

[0019] To combat the problem of dry, damaged and brittle hair, many hair care cosmetics are used, in particular to fill and smooth the hair scales, deficient in keratin and to restore a visual appearance and a silky feel.

[0020] In most cases, these care cosmetics have a temporary sheathing effect, simply coating the damaged hair fiber, particularly the cuticle, without regenerating the keratin fibers of the cortex.

[0021] Thus, to their disadvantage, these coating care cosmetics, such as silicone or vegetable oils, act only superficially at the cuticle level, without repairing the hair shaft or regenerating the protein content of the cortex. Furthermore, these coating care cosmetics can disappear with each wash, without having any long-term effect.

[0022] Thus, one of the major concerns for these hair cosmetic products is to have a regenerative action on the damage to the hair fiber that acts in depth, both at the level of the cortex and the cuticle, which is significantly sustainable over time, while minimizing its chemical constituents for the sake of simplicity and respect for the environment.

[0023] For example, the use of silicones in cosmetics is not appreciated. They coat and weigh down the hair with a superficial effect, without penetrating the hair fiber, which displeases consumers of hair products. Furthermore, silicones have a negative environmental impact, which discourages manufacturers, with their eco-friendly labeling, from using them.

[0024] The origin of the components and active ingredients in hair care compositions remains a sensitive subject for industry players. The current trend is towards hair care compositions with a minimum number of components, limiting as much as possible the use of excipients that are not active in hair care. Consumers want to use hair products with the most natural components possible, without chemical processing or synthetic additives, respecting the environment, while still providing the expected effect and efficacy on the hair. The aim is to minimize components that are not active ingredients that actually condition the hair and to have only what is necessary in terms of cosmetic actives.

[0025] Thus, with the aim of having a hair care product that acts deeply at the heart of the hair, using environmentally friendly ingredients, one of the objectives of the invention is to formulate a cosmetic hair composition, presenting a maximum of components of natural origin, eco-responsible, and a minimum of ingredients including the cosmetic active ingredient(s), which has the following effects:

[0026] -to regenerate and preserve the protein content of the hair, right up to the cortex area,

[0027] -to strengthen the hair, in particular the mechanical resistance of its hair fiber,

[0028] -to maintain the silky appearance of the hair, and

[0029] -to retain its biochemical activity, particularly protein activity.

[0030] In recent years, naturally derived, environmentally friendly vegetable oils have become increasingly popular in cosmetics. Indeed, most vegetable oils possess interesting cosmetic properties resulting, for example, from their richness in fatty acids, antioxidants, or vitamins. However, these oils have the disadvantage of only providing a superficial coating action, reducing friction, without strengthening or addressing the problem of hair fiber resistance caused by a deficiency in protein reserves.

[0031] For cosmetics and hair care, it is known to use the properties of a plant of the camelina genus in a form transformed into camelina oil, this camelina oil being able for example to be obtained by a cold pressing process.

[0032] Camelina oil is a natural cosmetic active ingredient with properties and impacts on hair known from the prior art.

[0033] Camelina oil is known for its nourishing action on hair due to its richness in fatty acids, particularly oleic and linoleic acids. These fatty acids help strengthen the hydrolipidic film, reduce water loss, and maintain hair suppleness.

[0034] Furthermore, the high concentration of vitamin E in camelina oil also gives it antioxidant properties, neutralizing free radicals and thus protecting the hair against external aggressors. The high palmitic acid or stearic acid content in camelina oil also gives it emollient and softening properties, contributing to hair elasticity.

[0035] Thus, most vegetable oils, including camelina oil, partly meet users' expectations for nourishing and protecting hair, by acting primarily at the cuticle level.

[0036] Although camelina oil has a recognized effect on hair care, the use of camelina oil in a hair care formulation may present several disadvantages.

[0037] Indeed, due to its physico-chemical form as an oil, camelina oil may be too nourishing for the hair and may not be suitable for consumers with, for example, oily roots and dry ends.

[0038] A hair formulation based on vegetable oil, such as camelina oil, can enhance the oily root appearance of the hair while treating dry ends.

[0039] Furthermore, in the form of camelina oil, the action on the hair is superficial and short-term, essentially coating the cuticle without acting deeply on the cortex proteins. Vegetable oil is insufficient to treat deep damage to the hair cortex proteins. This damage can be caused by thermal or chemical processes, such as bleaching or straightening; in this case, vegetable oil does not allow for the regeneration of the cortex proteins responsible for hair strength.

[0040] Thus, hair care based on camelina oil is not complete and unsuitable in the case of deep damage to the hair going beyond the cuticle.

[0041] Furthermore, the use of camelina oil in a hair formulation often necessitates the use of non-natural excipients. These excipients compensate for the oil's physicochemical drawbacks in order to incorporate it into the texture of hair products. For example, these excipients are necessary to stabilize the camelina oil, facilitate its dispersion, and prevent its degradation by other active ingredients present in the hair product.

[0042] Thus, the objective of limiting inactive components in hair care by minimizing excipients is difficult to achieve when the active ingredient consists of camelina in oil form.

[0043] The present invention aims to overcome the drawbacks of the prior art, by proposing a hair cosmetic composition, which comprises, in a physiologically acceptable environment, as a cosmetic active ingredient of natural origin, camelina flour obtained from defatted seeds from a plant of the genus Camelina, preferably of the species saliva.

[0044] The term "hair cosmetic composition" means any formulation intended to be applied to the hair and / or scalp.

[0045] The expression "physiologically acceptable medium" means a cosmetically, pharmaceutically and dermatologically acceptable medium compatible with hair and skin, including the scalp, mucous membranes and / or eyes.

[0046] By "cosmetically acceptable medium" is meant a medium without unpleasant odor or appearance, and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort, tingling, pulling or redness for the user, when applied topically to the hair, skin or its appendages.

[0047] By "pharmaceutically acceptable medium" is meant a medium useful in the preparation of a chemical composition, which is generally safe, non-toxic and neither biologically nor otherwise undesirable and which is acceptable for human pharmaceutical use.

[0048] By "dermatologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium that is non-toxic for administration to humans by topical application and that can be applied safely and without causing allergic or inflammatory reactions, particularly on the skin, such as, for example, the skin of the scalp.

[0049] The physiologically acceptable medium will be adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the form in which the composition is intended to be packaged, in particular in solid or fluid form at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0050] For the purposes of this invention, "cosmetic active ingredient", "cosmetic active principle" or "active principle" means at least one molecule, preferably a set of molecules having a cosmetic effect on the hair and skin, that is to say having an effect on the hair root and shaft, in particular the cuticle and cortex, as well as on the skin cells.

[0051] By "natural origin" is meant any substance derived, obtained, and extracted from a natural element, as opposed to a substance of synthetic origin, manufactured entirely by chemical synthesis processes. The substances or ingredients of natural origin are chemically transformed, that is to say derived from natural resources and then modified by green chemistry reactions.

[0052] Advantageously, the properties of camelina seed, of interest in cosmetics, are found, in the cosmetic hair composition of the invention, in the form of "camelina flour".

[0053] Camelina flour means a dry and dehydrated product which is in the form of a protein powder, having a moisture content of 8-10% or less.

[0054] Thus, advantageously, the use, in a hair composition, of camelina seeds in powder form does not present the aforementioned disadvantages of the "camelina oil" form.

[0055] Indeed, the powder is more easily dispersible in solution, keeps longer, and emulsifies more easily.

[0056] Preferably in the hair cosmetic composition of the invention, said camelina flour has a protein content of between 36% and 42%, preferably 40%, relative to its total mass.

[0057] The expression "protein content between 36% and 42%" means that camelina flour consists of a protein mixture comprising between 36% and 42% protein in the form of undenatured and structurally stable proteins.

[0058] Advantageously, these proteins contribute to strengthening dry and brittle hair, exhibiting scales resulting from a keratin deficiency, and have an action on the regeneration of the protein capital of the cortex and / or cuticle by allowing the reconstruction of damaged SS or CS bonds.

[0059] Compared to "camelina oil", "camelina flour" has a high protein content which has a significant impact on hair.

[0060] In the hair composition of the invention, camelina flour, in particular its proteins, contained in high quantities, makes it possible to fill the scales of the hair at the level of the cuticle, but also to regenerate the protein capital of the cortex, in particular by creating new protein disulfide bonds.

[0061] Indeed, the proteins contained in the flour can structurally replace the missing or deficient keratin in the hair, resulting in smooth and silky hair, without the "oily" sheathing appearance observed with camelina oil. More specifically, the high protein content of camelina flour fills and seals the cuticles of keratin-deficient hair, thus repairing it.

[0062] Furthermore, camelina flour also allows the formation of numerous SS, CS, or SH bonds in the cortex proteins, which increases the resistance of the hair fiber. The components of camelina flour contribute to the reconstruction of SS, CS or SH bonds of structural proteins in hair damaged by external aggressions.

[0063] According to a preferred embodiment of the hair composition of the invention, said camelina flour comprises proteins in hydrolyzed form and / or in non-hydrolyzed form, preferably in hydrolyzed form.

[0064] The term "hydrolyzed protein" refers to a protein obtained by hydrolysis, that is, a protein that has undergone a chemical and enzymatic reaction in which covalent bonds are broken by the action of a water molecule, thereby modifying its three-dimensional configuration and fragmenting it. A hydrolyzed protein will therefore not have the same three-dimensional molecular structure as a non-hydrolyzed protein.

[0065] By contrast, "protein in non-hydrolyzed form" means a protein that has not undergone a hydrolysis reaction and is in a natural three-dimensional molecular structural form.

[0066] According to a preferred embodiment of the hair composition of the invention, camelina flour comprises solely or predominantly hydrolyzed proteins. Advantageously, camelina flour consists of hydrolyzed proteins. Indeed, in hydrolyzed form, proteins have a more favorable configuration and steric bulk, making it easier to fill protein-deficient areas of the hair.

[0067] According to another embodiment of the hair composition of the invention, said camelina flour comprises proteins in non-hydrolyzed form.

[0068] Advantageously, the hair cosmetic composition of the invention comprises, as a mass percentage relative to its total mass, between 0.2% and 4% of camelina flour.

[0069] The test results that will follow show the impact of the percentage of camelina flour in the hair composition of the invention on the care and repair of the hair, in particular on the regeneration of cortex proteins.

[0070] According to other features of the invention, the hair composition:

[0071] - is presented in liquid, solid, or semi-solid galenic form;

[0072] - consists of a shampoo, conditioner, balm, mask, lotion, spray, serum or a hair cream.

[0073] According to another feature of the invention, the hair cosmetic composition further comprises, as an excipient, at least one aqueous solvent, at least one preservative, at least one wetting agent, at least one surfactant, at least one thickener and at least one pH adjuster.

[0074] It should be noted that in the hair composition of the invention, each of the excipients taken individually, or in mixture, does not impact the effect of the "flour of Camelina flour is used in hair care and repair. Interactions that may occur between excipients and camelina flour do not affect the effect of camelina flour on hair care, particularly in filling in the hair cuticles and regenerating the SS, CS and SH bonds of its structural proteins.

[0075] According to a particular embodiment of the hair cosmetic composition of the invention:

[0076] - said at least one aqueous solvent is chosen from the following list or mixtures thereof: demineralized water, spring water, mineral water, hydrosol or floral water, preferably said aqueous solvent consists of a mixture of demineralized water with Damask rose floral water; and / or;

[0077] - said at least one preservative consists of one or more anti-preservative(s) microbial(s) selected from the following list: alcohol, ethanol, benzoic acid or sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, sorbic acid, salicylic acid, sodium levulinate, sodium anisate, preferably benzyl alcohol; and / or;

[0078] - said at least one wetting agent consists of one or more wetting agents chosen from the following list: propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hyaluronic acid and its salts such as sodium hyaluronate, urea, and sugars such as mannitol, glucose, sucrose, sorbitol, erythritol, or preferably glycerin; and / or

[0079] - said at least one surfactant is chosen from the following list of surfactants anionic, or non-ionic or mixtures thereof: disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium glutamate, sodium cocoate, decyl glucoside, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium coco sulfate or caprylyl / capryl glucoside; and / or;

[0080] - said at least one thickener is chosen from the following list or a mixture thereof: xanthan gum, guar gum, alginate, tara gum, konjac gum, carrageenans; and / or said at least one pH adjuster consists of lactic acid.

[0081] As an aqueous solvent, demineralized water is preferred because, being deionized, that is, devoid of charged ions, it does not denature the structure of the proteins contained in camelina flour. More precisely, demineralized water, being deionized, does not charge the proteins and does not change their polarity; the protein structure remains intact.

[0082] The term "hydrosol" refers to the water obtained from the steam distillation of a plant, obtained at the same time as the essential oils. It is the aqueous phase collected at the outlet of the still at the end of the distillation.

[0083] The term "floral water" refers to a subgroup of hydrosols derived solely from flowers.

[0084] Benzyl alcohol is preferred as a preservative because it is accepted by the specifications for natural organic cosmetics; it has properties broad-spectrum antimicrobial and antifungal properties. Furthermore, benzyl alcohol has the advantage of being easily formulated for integration into aqueous or oily phases, hot or cold, without disrupting the stability of the cosmetic formulation, particularly a cosmetic composition containing camelina flour.

[0085] As a wetting agent, glycerin is preferred because it is accepted by the specifications of natural organic cosmetics, it is 100% natural in origin, and is easy to formulate at a lower cost, it is a very effective humectant.

[0086] In the invention, the surfactant(s) make it possible to increase the spreading and wetting capabilities of the hair cosmetic composition by lowering its surface tension.

[0087] As a thickener for said hair cosmetic composition of the invention, xanthan gum will preferably be chosen for its thickening contribution and for its impact on the viscosity of the product so that it is easily applicable to the hair.

[0088] Lactic acid is preferred as a pH adjuster because it is advantageously a naturally derived, non-synthetic component that can be found in milk. Lactic acid allows the pH of the composition to be adjusted without having an aggressive effect on the hair. More precisely, the pH of the hair shaft is 3.6, while that of the scalp is 5.5; thus, the pH of lactic acid allows the pH of the hair cosmetic composition to be brought closer to that of the hair shaft and scalp. In addition, an acidic pH helps to close and smooth the hair cuticles, thereby protecting the keratin still present in the hair.

[0089] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said hair cosmetic composition of the invention comprises, again as an excipient, at least one emulsifier, and / or at least one vegetable oil and / or at least one film-forming agent and / or at least one perfume.

[0090] Preferably:

[0091] - said at least one emulsifier is chosen from the following list or a mixture thereof: cetearyl alcohol, coco-glucosides, and / or;

[0092] - said at least one vegetable oil is chosen from the following list or its blend: hemp oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, grapeseed oil, sunflower oil, hazelnut oil, flaxseed oil, evening primrose oil, sesame oil, hibiscus oil, apple seed oil, rosehip oil, wheat germ oil, mustard oil, black cumin oil, plum oil, borage oil, rocket oil, fenugreek oil, kukui oil, yangu oil, sapote oil, monringa oil, oat oil, passion fruit oil, baobab oil, karanja oil, Brazil nut oil, camellia oil, pracaxi oil; and / or;

[0093] - said at least one film-forming agent is chosen from the following list or its mixture: erythritol, tetrahydroxybutane, erythrite; waxes, chitosan and its derivatives, rosin, acrylate and acrylamide polymers, silicone, quaternary ammonium compounds, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and / or;

[0094] - said at least one perfume is chosen from the following list or a mixture thereof: the citrus perfumes such as orange, bergamot, citron; floral perfumes such as jasmine, rose, violet; fougère perfumes such as lavender, oakmoss; chypre perfumes such as patchouli; woody perfumes such as sandalwood, cedar; amber perfumes such as oriental, sweet, or powdery vanilla fragrances, orchard freshness perfume, frangipane perfume.

[0095] The present invention also relates to a method for regenerating hair fiber proteins, in particular the cuticle and / or cortex, in which one or more hair cosmetic compositions of the invention are applied to previously moistened hair, followed by an optional step of rinsing with water.

[0096] This process allows for the long-term repair of hair, in particular by acting at the level of the cuticle and / or the cortex of the hair fiber, through a regeneration action of the protein capital involving the reconstruction of SS, CS or SH bonds.

[0097] Other features and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the following detailed description of non-limiting embodiments of the invention, with reference to the accompanying figures, in which:

[0098] - [Fig. 1] is the test protocol implemented to evaluate the effectiveness value and the rate of protein carbonylation of a strand of hair, damaged by stress, then subjected to treatment with a camelina flour solution;

[0099] - Figure 2 represents the treatment protocol for a damaged strand of hair. by stress, then subjected to treatment with one or more compositions of the invention, before extraction and quantification of the proteins.

[0100] - [Fig. 3] represents the treatment protocol for damaged hair strands by stress, then subjected to treatment with one or more compositions of the invention, before analysis and measurement of the mechanical and elastic resistance of the hair,

[0101] - [Fig. 4] represents the treatment protocol for hair strands damaged by a stress, then subjected to treatment with several compositions of the invention or a camelina flour solution, before analysis by RAMAN Spectrometry of the presence of SS, SC or SH bonds,

[0102] - [Fig. 5] gives the results of the areas under the peaks of the Raman spectra obtained for SS and SH bonds following the implementation of the protocol in [Fig.4] on hair strands after treatment with several compositions of the invention according to a hair care routine,

[0103] - Fig. 6 shows the appearance of untreated hair (6A), particularly the cuticle at scanning microscope at different magnifications relative to a treated hair (6B) with a hair routine as shown in [Fig.2] or [Fig.3].

[0104] The present invention relates to a hair cosmetic composition, intended to be applied to the hair and scalp.

[0105] The composition of the invention can be in all the pharmaceutical forms normally used in the field of hair cosmetics. For example, it can be in liquid, solid or semi-solid form.

[0106] Preferably, the hair cosmetic composition of the invention will be in the form of an emulsion for its ease of application to the hair and / or scalp.

[0107] Said composition may also be in the form of an aqueous solution, hydroalcoholic solution possibly gelled, or in the form of a lotion-type dispersion, possibly two-phase, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, an aqueous gel, an anhydrous liquid, paste or solid product, a suspension, an emulsion, a foam, an aerosol, a dispersion of oil in an aqueous phase using spherules, these spherules being polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules or, better, ionic and / or non-ionic lipid vesicles.

[0108] Said hair composition of the invention preferably consists of a shampoo or a conditioner. It may also consist of a hair care balm, a hair mask, a hair lotion, a hair spray, or a hair serum.

[0109] According to a specific feature of the invention, in order to avoid the aforementioned disadvantages of the prior art, said hair cosmetic composition comprises, as a mass percentage relative to its total mass, between 0.2% and 4% of camelina flour, preferably 3%.

[0110] According to a particular embodiment, said hair cosmetic composition comprises, for example, as a mass percentage in relation to its total mass, for example between 0.5 and 1% of camelina flour (serum), 1% of camelina flour (cream) or preferably 3% of camelina flour (shampoo or mask) in accordance with the examples cited later.

[0111] According to another feature of the invention, said camelina flour is obtained from defatted seeds of a Camelina saliva plant. Defatting the seeds makes it possible to eliminate as much of the oily phase as possible, while concentrating the proteins within the camelina flour.

[0112] According to another feature of the invention, said camelina flour has a protein content of between 36% and 42%, preferably 40%, as shown in the shampoo examples below.

[0113] A specific protein content of between 36% and 42% helps to care for the hair, making it silky, soft, filling in the scales and keratin deficiencies, so that it regains its suppleness, thickness, resistance, without being dry and brittle.

[0114] To obtain camelina flour with a protein content between 36% and 42%, the following steps are carried out:

[0115] - a) the whole seeds of Camelina saliva that have been harvested are mechanically cleaned,

[0116] -b) the seeds are mechanically cold-pressed until a material is obtained liquid corresponding to oil and a dry matter corresponding to the press cake of de-oiled seeds,

[0117] -c) said dry matter is recovered having a temperature of approximately 60°C and The dry matter is allowed to cool at room temperature of approximately 24°C for 24 hours,

[0118] - d) the dry matter is passed through a grinder and a 400-micron pore sieve until camelina flour is obtained with a protein content between 36% and 42% with an average of 40%.

[0119] Step a) allows the removal of impurities from the harvest that are not seeds.

[0120] Cooling in step c) corresponding to deoiling, the temperature must not exceed 60°C is necessary to preserve the cosmetic actives of camelina flour, in particular the structure of the proteins.

[0121] Thus, the implementation of this process makes it possible to obtain a camelina flour that can be advantageously used in the hair cosmetic composition of the invention.

[0122] This flour, rich in specific protein derived from defatted camelina seed, with a specific protein concentration between 36% and 42%, helps to treat and smooth the hair scales, to regenerate the proteins of the cortex and cuticle by rebuilding the SS, SH or CS protein bonds as demonstrated below.

[0123] Said camelina flour obtained by this process has a moisture content of less than 8-10%, which makes it "powdery". This moisture content was determined from several samples using a thermogravimetric method of the halogen-source drying type.

[0124] Said camelina flour obtained by this process has also been microbiologically tested by all methods known to those skilled in the art. Said hemp protein flour has a colony-forming unit count / gram of less than 100 for yeasts and molds, and less than 10 for E. coli bacteria (according to NFISO 16649-2).

[0125] The composition may also include all the usual cosmetic additives for a hair composition such as water, solvents, oils, waxes, pigments, fillers, surfactants, cosmetic or dermatological actives, UV filters, polymers, gelling agents, preservatives and perfumes.

[0126] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of camelina flour within the composition of the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0127] According to a preferred embodiment, said hair composition further comprises, in addition to the cosmetic active ingredient of camelina flour, as an excipient, at least one aqueous solvent, at least one preservative, at least one wetting agent, at least one surfactant, at least one thickener and at least one pH adjuster.

[0128] According to this preferred embodiment, said hair cosmetic composition of the invention comprises, again as an excipient, at least one emulsifier, and / or at least one vegetable oil and / or at least one film-forming agent and / or at least one perfume.

[0129] Thus, said hair cosmetic composition of the invention, following its application to the hair, makes it possible to tighten the scales of the hair shaft, to fight against dryness, the brittle and dehydrated appearance of the hair and to regenerate its SS, SH and / or CS bonds to rebuild its protein capital, thicken and strengthen the resistance to breakage of the hair.

[0130] The use of said hair cosmetic composition enhances the silky appearance of the hair, the resistance of the hair fiber and allows for deep regeneration of the protein capital over the long term by acting at the heart of the hair shaft by rebuilding the SS, SH or CS type bridge protein bonds of the cortex.

[0131] The present invention also relates to the use of said hair cosmetic composition as a treatment to care for the hair, that is to say in particular to wash it, coat it, protect it against external aggressions.

[0132] More specifically, the invention also relates to a method for regenerating hair fiber proteins, in particular the cuticle and / or cortex, in which one or more hair cosmetic compositions are applied to previously moistened hair, followed by an optional step of rinsing with water.

[0133] According to a particular embodiment, the process for regenerating hair fiber proteins comprises the following steps:

[0134] - a step of wetting the hair with water, preferably with water at 37°C,

[0135] - a step of applying a hair composition of the invention in the form of a shampoo,

[0136] - a step of detangling the hair and rinsing with water until the shampoo is removed

[0137] - a step of applying a hair composition of the invention in the form of a mask,

[0138] - a resting stage of the mask on the hair, preferably for at least 20 minutes, until the mask has penetrated to the core of the hair fiber cortex,

[0139] - a step of detangling the hair and rinsing with water until the mask is removed,

[0140] - a step of applying a hair composition of the invention in the form of a cream,

[0141] -a hair drying step at a temperature between 30 and 45°C, preferably 40°C for at least 30 min.

[0142] The resting stage allows penetration of the core mask of the capillary stem, at the level of the cortex so as to generate the regeneration of the protein capital and the reconstruction of protein bonds such as SS, SH and / or CS bonds.

[0143] For example, in the aforementioned process, the shampoo, mask and cream can be made up of the shampoo of example 1, the mask of example 2 and the cream of example 3 mentioned below, including the camelina flour obtained by the aforementioned protocol.

[0144] To illustrate the present invention, a list of examples of hair cosmetic compositions and their uses is mentioned below:

[0145] Example 1: Cameline Shampoo:

[0146] Demineralized water, Decyl glucoside, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium chloride, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, Damask rose flower water, erythritol, camelina flour, glycerin, lactic acid, inulin, benzyl alcohol, xanthan gum

[0147] Optional: Coconut fragrance (vanillin, linalool)

[0148] Example 2: Camelina hair mask:

[0149] Demineralized water, brassicyl valinate esylate, cetearyl alcohol, calcium gluconate, brassica alcohol, hazelnut oil, organic deodorized high oleic sunflower oil, camelina flour, benzyl alcohol

[0150] Optional: Coconut fragrance (vanillin, linalool)

[0151] Example 3: Camelina hair cream:

[0152] Demineralized water, brassicyl valinate esylate, cetearyl alcohol, calcium gluconate, brassica alcohol, hazelnut oil, Damask rose floral water, camelina flour, benzyl alcohol, glycosphingolipids, glycolipids, lactic acid

[0153] Optional: Coconut fragrance (vanillin, linalool, benzaldehyde, linalyl acetate)

[0154] In order to prove the effectiveness of the hair cosmetic composition of the invention in hair care, the experimental results below are highlighted.

[0155] Impact of a camelina flour solution on the oxidation of hair proteins ([Fig.1]):

[0156] A protocol, visible in [Fig.1], evaluating the percentage of oxidized proteins, previously treated with the sample to be tested, after application of oxidative stress was implemented.

[0157] Under the test conditions, the controlled parameter is the carbonylation rate of proteins present at the cuticle and cortex of the hair fiber of a strand of hair.

[0158] The carbonylation rate of proteins is measured relative to the total proteins from a wick treated with the sample, then subjected to oxidative stress.

[0159] Carbonylation corresponds to the attachment of carbonyl derivatives to proteins and serves as an indicator of oxidative damage to proteins. Oxidative damage reflects the aging of hair proteins, in particular a deficiency of functional keratin in the cuticle and / or cortex of the hair shaft.

[0160] The carbonylation rate allows the rate of protection of hair proteins by the tested sample to be calculated.

[0161] In the protocol, a strand of hair is treated, after being subjected to oxidative stress of the bleaching type, by bringing it into contact with the sample to be tested.

[0162] After processing, the hair strand is taken, preserved by cryogenics and then sectioned, perpendicular to the axis of the hair shaft, into 5 pm slices.

[0163] Then the carbonyls of each hair slice are labeled in situ using a fluorescent probe, excitation at 647 nm and emission at 650 nm wavelength, specifically binding the carbonyl groups present (Baraibar M et al, J Proteomics 63-70, 2013, DOI: 10.1016 / j.jprot.2013.05.008).

[0164] After labeling, fluorescence images of each sample are collected with an epi-fluorescent microscope and analyzed with the corresponding software, distinguishing the area corresponding to the cuticle from that of the cortex on each hair slice.

[0165] The sample to be tested consists of camelina flour dissolved in deionized water at a concentration of 3%. The camelina flour is obtained according to the aforementioned protocol and comprises a protein content of 40% by mass.

[0166] Said oxidative stress consists of applying, to the strand, a bleaching protocol with bleaching agents in a simple medium in an ammonia bath and an oxygen generator.

[0167] According to the test protocol, each wick undergoes a 20 min treatment cycle with the sample to be tested, after having been subjected to said oxidative stress, except the wick under the control conditions.

[0168] A treatment cycle consists of placing the sample to be tested in contact with a wick for 20 min, followed by rinsing with ultrapure water and natural air drying.

[0169] The conditions, the sample tested and the treatment cycle applied to the hair sections, before or after exposure to oxidative stress, are indicated in the summary table below:

[0170] Table: Experimental protocol: sample application Reference / Test Condition Samples to be tested Sample application protocol on the hair strand (Treatment Cycle) 1 Control Wash with water only, then drying 2 Stress Wash with water, then application of the stress agent, followed by a wash with water and drying 3 Camelina flour solution diluted in deionized water Wash with water, then application of the stress agent, then 20 min contact with the solution, followed by a wash with water and drying

[0171] The "control" sample is a wick simply washed with ultrapure water and then dried, without subjecting it to oxidative stress, which serves as a negative control.

[0172] The "stress" sample is a strand of hair subjected to oxidative stress, then washed with ultrapure water and dried, which serves as a positive control. Under these conditions, the damage caused by oxidative stress to the hair, particularly to the proteins, is observed without the effect of camelina flour.

[0173] Sample 3 to be tested corresponds to a camelina flour solution. The solution is obtained by mixing camelina flour, comprising a protein content of 40% obtained according to the aforementioned protocol, to be diluted to 3% in deionized water.

[0174] Each test condition was performed on 50 fibers from a strand of hair.

[0175] After applying the samples to the hair sections according to the protocol Based on the experimental setup shown in Table 1 (Fig. 1), in situ detection of protein oxidation (carbonylation intensity) was performed by epifluorescence microscopy on cross-sections of hair, and all fluorescent images were collected. The carbonylation intensity was obtained by integrating the specific fluorescence signal normalized by the evaluated area.

[0176] Three images per test condition are used to quantify the carbonylation levels for each hair slice; the mean value and standard deviation a was obtained for each condition and each compartment; cortex and cuticle; of the hair slice.

[0177] Based on the measurements, the level of oxidation (carbonylation) of each experimental condition, indicated as an average of Relative Fluorescence Unit / surface, called "RFU / surface", based on a specific fluorescence signal on the regions of the cuticle and cortex, was calculated.

[0178] A percentage efficacy value was also calculated on the basis of these results, taking the control condition without treatment as the reference for maximum efficacy at 100%, and the stress-only condition as the reference for minimum efficacy at 0%, according to the formula below: [A1"7f)] , / , , . , . .■ . Fluorescence Iitfetisity{stress)-Intensity of fhiwcscetw^^ LJ Value dçf flCÛClt^ in (sample X) — lnten_^ fa fluorescence(' stressyïntensiié de fiiwréscence ( contrâty X)

[0180] The efficacy value reflects the ability of the tested sample of camelina flour solution to protect the cuticle and cortex proteins of cross-sections of hair strand from stress.

[0181] The results are shown in Table 1 below.

[0182] Table 1: TFE rate in RFC / surface, % w Confrol J Standard of deviattar Efficiency value in { ! aimcuiE ______wo___________________ gr2 r <0.001 IStress + flour of caressée ? 340 14.8 <0.001 j CORTEX JCoriWe 500 4.4 100% L.0.001 ÎSlress 210 17.8 0% j (Siress + 'à ri ne de cameSn s ISS 41%

[0183] The P (p-value) corresponds to the level of significance observed in the test according to the analysis of variance method ANOVA by Dunnett's multicomparison test.

[0184] The smaller P is, the stronger the evidence will be to reject the null hypothesis.

[0185] The standard deviation corresponds to the measure of the dispersion of the variable in the population and in the sample, respectively.

[0186] This is a statistic used as a measure of dispersion or variation in a distribution, equal to the square root of the arithmetic mean of the squares of the deviations from the arithmetic mean.

[0187] This is a measure of the dispersion of a group of data from its mean. The greater the difference between the data, the higher the deviation.

[0188] The results in Table 1 show a significant increase in carbonylation levels following stress induction. Under these same stress conditions, the The presence of camelina flour solution decreases the level of protein carbonylation at the cuticle and cortex of the tested strand.

[0189] More specifically, the results also show that the application of camelina flour upstream of a stress protects the structural integrity of cuticle proteins by 37% and the cortex proteins by 41% from carbonylation.

[0190] A camelina flour solution, applied to the hair, upstream of oxidative stress, protects proteins from carbonylation.

[0191] Impact of applying a hair composition of the invention to a strand of hair:

[0192] A: On the protein quantity of a strand of hair ([Fig.2])

[0193] The protocol in [Fig. 2] is implemented to test the effectiveness of applying the hair compositions of Examples 1 to 3 mentioned above to the hair. Effectiveness is evaluated following the individual application of a hair composition 2 or 3, or following a combined application of several hair compositions (Examples 1 to 3) according to a hair treatment routine. The objective is to determine the impact of the hair composition on the quantity of proteins that structurally constitute the hair shaft.

[0194] At the end of the protocol, protein extraction and quantification are performed on each treated strand. The results of the protein quantification are shown in Table 3 below.

[0195] The tests are carried out on 0.5 g of Caucasian type hair strands.

[0196] A strand of natural hair, which has not undergone any treatment or stress, nor care by a hair composition of the invention, serves as a reference control.

[0197] To measure the effect of applying the hair composition of the invention on hair repair and protein preservation, the treatment is carried out on damaged, altered hair that has undergone oxidative stress of the bleaching type. The oxidative stress is achieved according to a bleaching protocol with bleaching agents in a simple medium in an ammonia bath and an oxygen generator.

[0198] A bleached strand, without any conditioning treatment by a hair composition of the invention, serves as a reference control.

[0199] Several bleached strands are treated with one or all of the hair compositions according to a hair care routine mentioned in Table 2 below.

[0200] [Tables2] Tested hair composition Composition components Mask (-) Example 2 without camelina flour Mask (+) Example 2 Cream (-) Example 3 without camelina flour Cream (+) Example 3 Routine: Shampoo (+) then Mask (+) then Cream (+) Application following a shampoo preparation according to example 1, then a mask according to example 2, then a cream according to example 3

[0201] Compositions without camelina flour serve as a negative control.

[0202] After treatment of the bleached strands with the different hair compositions tested, a protein extraction is carried out on each of the treated strands, by any method known in the prior art.

[0203] After protein extraction, the total proteins extracted from each treated strand are quantified by the Bradford method (Bradford, MM. (1976) Anal Biochem. 72, 248-254, http: / / dx.doi.org / 10.1016 / 0003-2697(76)90527-3).

[0204] The table also gives an effectiveness value as a percentage of the composition or routine tested.

[0205] The control condition, i.e., natural, unbleached hair, is taken as the reference for maximum effectiveness at 100%. The stress-only condition, i.e., bleached hair only, without treatment by a composition of the invention, is taken as the reference for minimum effectiveness at 0%.

[0206] The results of protein quantification, following the application of each treatment, are shown in Table 3 below:

[0207] Table 3: in the hair shaft Protein content (% mass compared to the standard deviation of repair (i P'vafeU (VS Strass) Nature! (ontrôte) WO 4 100 i <0.001 Detached (stress) ..................63.................. 2 .Û'- . ; Mask (+) zi <3 38 <0.001 Mask 62 19 i <0.001 Cream N) ..................6?.................. 2 14 i 0.02 Cream {■} 58 3 12 <0.1 Routine 70 2 37 i <0.001

[0208] In Table 3, the deviation standards and the P-value give the same indications as for Table 1.

[0209] According to the results in Table 3, the application of a composition of the invention containing camelina flour shows a beneficial effect on hair damaged by bleaching with preservation of the proteins of the bleached hair shaft.

[0210] In all tests, whether using a mask, cream, or routine, protein repair of bleached hair was observed, characterized by an increase in protein content and a positive repair efficacy value. The addition of camelina flour to the cream and mask significantly increased the protein percentage, thus enabling protein repair of previously bleached hair.

[0211] Camelina flour is therefore the cosmetic active ingredient responsible for repairing hair proteins.

[0212] B: On the elasticity and mechanical tensile strength of the hair ([Fig.3])

[0213] To demonstrate the restorative effect of the hair composition of the invention on the With hair straightened, the protocol of [Fig.3] was implemented, which measures the following three parameters of a strand of hair: - Young's modulus or longitudinal modulus of elasticity, expressed in megapascals (MPa) - Tensile strength, expressed in MPa - Elongation at break, expressed as a percentage (%).

[0214] The "Young's modulus" is the constant that relates the tensile (or compressive) stress and the onset of deformation of an isotropic elastic material. A material with a very high Young's modulus is said to be rigid.

[0215] Tensile strength is the parameter that defines the breaking limit.

[0216] Elongation at break measures the ability of a material to elongate under load before breaking.

[0217] The study protocol is carried out on 1g of natural Caucasian hair.

[0218] A first pre-cleaning step is performed on each strand with 0.4g / l of strand of foaming solution, for example, an anionic surfactant solution with cleansing and foaming properties such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate. The foaming solution is applied by massaging 6 times from the root to the tip of the strand, then the strand is detangled and rinsed with 15 passes under a flow rate of 300L / h of water at 37°C. The strand is then dried for 30 min at 40°C.

[0219] A second straightening step of the pre-cleaned strands is carried out using 5 passes of a flat iron at a temperature of 230°C on each strand, except for the control strand. This step consists of the intentional alteration of the hair proteins; it is a stress that damages the three-dimensional structure of the hair.

[0220] The third step consists of applying one or more of the hair compositions of the invention.

[0221] As a positive control, a strand will be treated only with water without application of one or more of the hair compositions of the invention.

[0222] To evaluate the effect on the hair fiber of the mask according to example 2 on the strand or of the implementation of the routine, i.e. the combination of the shampoo of Example 1 with the mask from example 2 then the cream from example 3, the strands of hair are treated as shown in [Fig.3].

[0223] After treatment, each strand is detangled and then dried for 30 min at 40°C.

[0224] In order to demonstrate the repairing effect of the treatment on the hair strand, a micro-traction test is carried out.

[0225] For this test, each drill bit is positioned and held between two cylinders of a circular cassette of a micro-tension device. The micro-tension device allows for automatic measurement of the Young's modulus, tensile strength, and elongation at break of the cross-section of each drill bit.

[0226] Each measurement is performed on 50 hair fibers per condition.

[0227] The results are shown in Table 4 below:

[0228] Table 4: Young's Modulus Tensile Strength Elongation at Break MPa MPa % Wick Natural Average 1593.52 189.86 54.83 Standard deviation 140.29 13.53 3.4 Water Average 516.09 84.3 50.98 Standard deviation 211.68 14.17 2.06 Mask Average 411.95 80.94 50.26 Standard deviation 204.33 16.37 3.05 Routine Average 782.5 104.95 52.13 Standard deviation 244.34 19.15 2.56

[0229] The standard deviation is defined in accordance with the definition given for Table 1, the p-values ​​of all results in Table 3 are <0.001 and are defined in accordance with the ANOVA method by Dunnett's multi-comparison test.

[0230] The results show a significantly higher Young's modulus, tensile strength and elongation at break of natural hair for a natural hair without treatment only for a pre-cleaned hair, straightened at 230°C and treated either with water, or with the mask or with the routine.

[0231] The results also show that the treatment routine exhibits a higher Young's modulus, tensile strength, and elongation at break than a water-based treatment. Furthermore, the routine achieves tensile strength and elongation at break values ​​close to those of natural hair, thus eliminating the impact of stress. The hair routine, i.e., the application of the hair compositions of the invention, therefore enables the restoration and strengthening of the hair shaft, which exhibits good mechanical resistance resulting from a high presence of structural protein, such as keratin.

[0232] The application of the mask or routine with camelina flour as a cosmetic active ingredient helps to mechanically strengthen the hair shaft by acting on its structural proteins and to restore proteins damaged by the stress of straightening.

[0233] Impact of the application of a hair composition of the invention on the regeneration of protein bonds ([Fig.4])

[0234] To evaluate the regeneration of protein bonds in hair following the application of the compositions of the invention, the increase in the number of thiol bonds (SS) known as "disulfide" bridges and thiol keratins (CS) in treated hair was studied by Raman spectroscopy.

[0235] Raman spectroscopy is a method for observing and characterizing the molecular composition of a material's surface by exploiting the physical phenomenon whereby a medium slightly alters the frequency of light passing through it. The Raman effect, or "frequency shift," corresponds to an exchange of energy between the light beam and the medium. Raman spectroscopy shines monochromatic light onto the sample and analyzes the scattered light. Measuring and analyzing the shift allows the chemical bonds composing the surface of a material to be identified by their vibrational mode.

[0236] The characteristic vibrational modes of SS and CS bonds in a hair keratin-like matrix are known (Essendoubi et al, Int J Cosmet Sci, 2022; 44 588-601 https: / / doi.org / 10.! 111 / ics.12808; Baraldi et al 2014, JPharmaceutical Research 32.10.1007 / sl 1095-014-1562-5; Bazylewski et al, 2017, RSC advances, 7(5),2964-2970) are shown in Table 5 below.

[0237] Table 5: Vibration mode link Raman shift SS Elongation (stretching) between 490 and 511 (simple) SS Deformation (bending) 560 CS Elongation (stretching) between 610 and 760 (doublet or triplet)

[0238] The study was carried out on hair strands according to the protocol of [Fig.4].

[0239] RAMAN spectroscopy was performed on Caucasian-type hair strands which were analyzed using a Bruker Senterra p-Raman spectrometer, coupled to a confocal microscope and associated with two laser sources of wavelength 475 nm and 785 nm, using the following conditions:

[0240] 532 nm, with a laser power of 2 mW for an acquisition of 20 scans at 0.5 seconds / scan and a 20x optical magnification

[0241] 785 nm, with a laser power of 100 mW for an acquisition of 20 scans at 0.5 seconds / scan and 20x optical magnification,

[0242] a calibration of the spectrometer upstream of the measurements with a reference sample of Tylenol.

[0243] An untreated wick serves as a positive control for the characteristic peaks of SS and CS bonds.

[0244] A strand oxidized by a bleaching-type stress serves as a negative control, with the absence of peaks characteristic of SS and CS bonds. The stress is a bleaching protocol with bleaching agents in a simplex medium in an ammonia bath and an oxygen generator.

[0245] An oxidized wick then treated with a camelina flour solution obtained by mixing camelina flour, comprising a protein content of 40% obtained according to the aforementioned protocol, to be diluted to 3% in deionized water.

[0246] Each wick was analyzed by Raman spectroscopy.

[0247] For the analysis of the results, the areas under the peaks were calculated taking into account the following intervals:

[0248] -460 -520 cm-1 for the vibration mode, elongation of SS bonds,

[0249] - 520-580 cm-1 for the vibration mode deformation of the SS bonds,

[0250] -600-770 cm-1 for the vibration mode elongation of the CS bonds.

[0251] As a reference for 100% effectiveness, the area over the peaks of the untreated wick sample was taken, and, as a reference for 0% effectiveness, the area over the peaks of the oxidized wick sample was taken.

[0252] The results of the area under the peaks after Raman spectrometry as well as the efficiency value of the sample, are shown in Table 6 below.

[0253] Table 6: Sample Area under S tes Value of: efficiency {%) SS bond Reason C - S Season S- S CS bond Elongation def arrnstion elongation Elongation fan|défo eloegatiw IMalurel ( cotiirôfaj 17.2' 35.6$ IM 1« idc Shess t Deàalôràfcfï) 0.5« f « 0 Stress* CamsSe flour * 21.1; 22. « 2.S 10030.00^ 128 171 /

[0254] The 100% efficiency level corresponds to the area under the peaks of the untreated wick.

[0255] The 0% efficiency level corresponds to the area under the peaks of the stress wick without application of the camelina flour solution.

[0256] The calculation of the areas under the peaks of the Raman spectra can be carried out by any method known to a person skilled in the art.

[0257] The spectral results show the absence of characteristic SS and CS bond peaks on the oxidized wick sample subjected to stress and their presence on the untreated natural wick sample. These results for the controls are consistent with those expected.

[0258] The spectra obtained by applying the camelina flour solution show the characteristic peaks of SS and CS bonds. These results demonstrate the regeneration of SS and CS bonds following the application of the camelina flour solution to the surface of the previously oxidized hair.

[0259] Thus, according to RAMAN spectrometry analyses, the application of a camelina flour solution allows the regeneration of the SS and CS bonds of the structural proteins of the hair, thereby strengthening its mechanical resistance while giving it a silky and smooth appearance.

[0260] Similarly, after application of the protocol in [Fig.4], the regeneration of SS and SH bonds was evaluated following the application of a hair care routine as indicated in [Fig.3], on hair damaged according to the aforementioned bleaching protocol.

[0261] For the regeneration of SS and SH bonds, Raman data are recorded on an HR800 micro-spectrometer, using a HeNe laser emitting at 633 nm, at a power of around 15 mW.

[0262] The samples were left under the laser beam for 30 min to reduce the fluorescence effect. The objective was 100X (NA= 0.9), and the laser spot was on the order of a micron. Raman mapping was recorded on each hair type. A spectrum was recorded every micron over a 10x10 µm area (Jordana Dias dos Santos et al, JHeliyon, 2019, https: / / doi.org / 10.1016 / j.heliyon.2019.e01582).

[0263] Table 7 below shows the results obtained.

[0264] Table 7: Air under your peaks | Wéur d’sîîfcaoitë ï SLS | Liaison SS ( é^ngasior SM { stjaiaofi SS ■ eiü'WEfeffestaa S- ' oonWa) 1 1 I j we Stress ( Decoloraîsors 0.52 f ü & j ...................."... stress s t.92 | 73 ] j

[0265] The 100% efficiency level corresponds to the area under the peaks of the untreated wick.

[0266] The 0% efficiency level corresponds to the area under the peaks of the stressed wick without application of the camelina flour solution.

[0267] The results of areas under the peaks are shown in [Fig.5] in the form of a histogram.

[0268] The results of the areas under the peaks and the efficacy values ​​obtained by the application of the hair routine, i.e. the shampoo of example 1, the mask of example 2 and the cream of example 3 of the invention prove a regeneration of the SS and SH bonds following the application of the compositions of the invention to the surface of the hair previously oxidized by bleaching.

[0269] The regeneration of the SS and SH bonds of the structural proteins of the hair, by application of the hair compositions of the invention, strengthens the mechanical resistance of the hair while giving it a silky and smooth appearance.

[0270] Impact of applying a hair composition of the invention on the visual appearance of a strand of hair ([Fig.6])

[0271] A strand of natural hair subjected to oxidative stress with the aforementioned bleaching protocol, untreated with a hair composition of the invention, was observed under a scanning electron microscope at different magnifications (X500, X1000 and X3000) as shown in Figure 6A. The untreated natural strand exhibits several non-contiguous scales that are raised at the level of the cuticle, which thus presents irregular and detached edges, typical of protein degradation, particularly of keratin.

[0272] The same observations were made on the same strand of hair after application of the hair compositions according to the routine of [Fig.2] or [Fig.3], as seen in Figure 6B.

[0273] At equivalent magnification, after treatment with the routine, a visual reduction in the number of scales on the hair shaft cuticle is observed. The cuticle is intact and appears smooth, formed by scales whose edges are more regular and fully adherent to the underlying scales. The structure of the hair treated with the routine regains an overall smooth, intact appearance, free of scales and split ends.

[0274] The application of the hair care routine with the different compositions of the invention containing camelina flour as a cosmetic active ingredient therefore allows for structural regeneration, in particular of the proteins of the cuticle, of the hair shaft.

[0275] Thus, the use of the hair composition of the invention comprising camelina flour as a cosmetic active ingredient allows:

[0276] -to protect hair against oxidative stress, due for example to bleaching

[0277] - to avoid carbonylation of these structural proteins, in particular by preserving keratin or replacing it when it is damaged,

[0278] - to regenerate the SS, CS, SH bonds of the structural proteins of the hair, damaged or destroyed by stress, therefore to regenerate the protein capital of the damaged hair,

[0279] -to strengthen the mechanical resistance of the hair.

[0280] Thus, the hair care cosmetic formula protects the hair against damage, notably thanks to its naturally derived active ingredient based on camelina flour. The hair care cosmetic formula cares for the hair by being formulated with the most natural active ingredients possible, thereby meeting consumer demand for long-term care through deep-down regeneration of the hair shaft, with a minimum of environmentally friendly, naturally derived ingredients.

Claims

Demands

1. Hair cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, as a cosmetic active of natural origin, camelina flour obtained from defatted seeds from a plant of the genus Camelina, preferably of the sativa species.

2. Hair cosmetic composition, according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said camelina flour has a protein content of between 36% and 42%, preferably 40%, relative to its total mass.

3. Hair cosmetic composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said camelina flour comprises proteins in hydrolyzed form and / or in non-hydrolyzed form, preferably in hydrolyzed form.

4. Hair cosmetic composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises, as a mass percentage in relation to its total mass, between 0.2% and 4% of camelina flour.

5. Hair cosmetic composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in liquid, solid, or semi-solid galenic form.

6. Hair cosmetic composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it consists of a shampoo, conditioner, balm, mask, lotion, spray, serum or hair cream.

7. Hair cosmetic composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises, as an excipient, at least one aqueous solvent, at least one preservative, at least one wetting agent, at least one surfactant, at least one thickener and at least one pH adjuster.

8. Hair cosmetic composition, according to the preceding claim, characterized in that: - said at least one aqueous solvent is selected from the following list of elements or mixtures thereof: demineralized water, spring water, mineral water, hydrosol or floral water, preferably said aqueous solvent consists of a mixture of demineralized water with Damask rose floral water; and / or; - said at least one preservative consists of one or more antimicrobial preservative(s) chosen from the following list: alcohol, ethanol, benzoic acid or sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, sorbic acid, salicylic acid, sodium levulinate, sodium anisate, preferably benzyl alcohol; and / or; - said at least one wetting agent consists of one or more wetting agents chosen from the following list: propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hyaluronic acid and its salts such as sodium hyaluronate, urea, and sugars such as mannitol, glucose, sucrose, sorbitol, erythritol, or preferably glycerin;and / or - said at least one surfactant is chosen from the following list of anionic or non-ionic surfactants or mixtures thereof: disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium glutamate, sodium cocoate, decyl glucoside, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium coco sulfate or caprylyl / capryl glucoside; and / or; - said at least one thickener is chosen from the following list or mixture thereof: xanthan gum, guar gum, alginate, tara gum, konjac gum, carrageenans; and / or said at least one pH adjuster consists of lactic acid.

9. Hair cosmetic composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises, again as an excipient, at least one emulsifier, and / or at least one vegetable oil and / or at least one film-forming agent and / or at least one perfume.

10. Hair cosmetic composition, according to the preceding claim, characterized in that: - said at least one emulsifier is selected from the following list or a mixture thereof: cetearyl alcohol, coco-glucosides, and / or; - said at least one vegetable oil is selected from the following list or a mixture thereof: hemp oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, grapeseed oil, sunflower oil, hazelnut oil, linseed oil, evening primrose oil, sesame oil, hibiscus oil, apple seed oil, rosehip oil, oil of wheat germ, mustard oil, nigella oil, plum oil, borage oil, rocket oil, fenugreek oil, kukui oil, yangu oil, sapote oil, monringa oil, oat oil, passion fruit oil, baobab oil, karanja oil, Brazil nut oil, camellia oil, pracaxi oil; and / or - said at least one film-forming agent is chosen from the following list or a mixture thereof: erythritol, tetrahydroxybutane, erythrite; waxes, chitosan and its derivatives, rosin, acrylate and acrylamide polymers, silicone, quaternary ammonium compounds, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and / or; - said at least one fragrance is chosen from the following list or a mixture thereof: citrus fragrances such as orange, bergamot, citron; floral perfumes such as jasmine, rose, violet, fougère perfumes such as lavender, oakmoss;Chypre perfumes such as patchouli, woody perfumes such as sandalwood and cedar; amber perfumes such as oriental, sweet, or powdery vanilla fragrances, orchard freshness perfume, frangipane perfume.

11. A method for regenerating hair fiber proteins, in particular the cuticle and / or cortex, wherein one or more hair cosmetic composition(s) according to any one of the preceding claims are applied to previously moistened hair, followed by an optional step of rinsing with water.

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