Synergistic combination of three rose extracts for anti-aging and nutritional action

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety, preferably summer rosewood, obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent, (ii) a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, in particular from fresh petals of roses of the Evanrat variety and (iii) an oily extract of rose, in particular of the Evanrat variety.

Description

Title of the invention: Synergistic combination of three rose extracts for anti-aging and nutritional action. FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of care for keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The skin is the largest organ of the human body and the body's first line of defense against the environment. It is directly subjected to factors of exogenous origin (e.g., UV radiation, temperature variations, air pollution, cigarette smoke...) or endogenous origin (e.g., hormones...), which can induce or accelerate skin aging, which will be called extrinsic aging or intrinsic (or physiological) aging, respectively.

[0003] Extrinsic aging leads to clinical alterations such as deep wrinkles and the formation of skin that has lost its firmness, suppleness, and elasticity, as well as impaired skin barrier function. Concurrently, intrinsic or physiological aging causes, in particular, a slowing of the renewal of skin cells, keratinocytes, which essentially results in the appearance of clinical alterations such as fine lines or wrinkles.

[0004] These events result at the cellular and molecular level in a decrease in the expression of certain proteins that are nevertheless essential for the full functionality of the tissue. For example, the epidermis becomes thinner, less hydrated, and the cell differentiation process slows down.

[0005] The use of certain rose extracts in anti-aging is known, such as the extract of roses of the Evanrat variety, also called 'Jardin de Granville®' roses, in the form of an isolated bioactive fraction, described in the patent application published under No. FR3130619.

[0006] However, there is a constant need to find new compounds or new combinations of active ingredients with improved properties in the prevention and / or aging of the skin, in particular through the improvement of the functions of epidermal cells, including hydration, differentiation or cohesion.

[0007] Unexpectedly, the Applicant highlighted that the combination of three particular cosmetic active ingredients, (i) an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety, (ii) a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, and (iii) an oily extract of rose, allows for a synergistic action on the stimulation of the expression of genes associated with better functioning of the epidermis.

[0008] Thus, the Applicant has shown that this combination of three assets synergistically increased the expression: - AQP3, AQP9 and AQP10 genes, encoding aquaporins. Aquaporins are channels that transport water in tissues. They are essential for proper hydration of the epidermis from the basal layers to the upper layers. These three aquaporins are expressed in the epidermis; - of the PNPLA1 gene encoding a Patatin domain phospholipase involved in lipid metabolism at the level of the stratum corneum. This protein notably allows the biogenesis of lamellar lipids of the stratum corneum and the formation of the lipid stratum corneum essential to the skin's barrier function to maintain its hydration; - genes encoding proteins of differentiation and barrier function, in particular the TGM1 gene encoding transglutaminase I which allows the creation of cross-links between structural proteins such as the small proline-rich protein IB (SPRR1B) or for good barrier function; the KLK7 gene encoding kallikrein 7 involved in desquamation; the KRT1 gene encoding cytokeratin 1 produced during the differentiation of keratinocytes which allows the creation of an important protein network for the structure of the epidermis; and the ZNF750 gene encoding zinc finger protein 750 which is necessary for the terminal differentiation of keratinocytes; - of the DSG1 gene encoding desmoglein I, which allows cells to adhere to each other; and - of the PI3 gene encoding the peptidase 3 inhibitor which promotes innate immunity of the tissue.

[0009] Thus this new combination of cosmetic active ingredients makes it possible to significantly increase the skin's barrier function and thus prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging, in particular the loss of tone, loss of elasticity and / or loss of firmness of the skin, and / or the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines. Description of the invention

[0010] The present invention thus relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: i. an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety, preferably summer rosewood, obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent, ii. a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, in particular from fresh petals of Evanrat roses, and iii. an oily extract of rose, in particular of the Evanrat variety.

[0011] By "cosmetic composition" we mean any composition with a cosmetic purpose, that is to say aesthetic, which may be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body and more particularly with keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, in particular the skin of the face and / or neck.

[0012] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratinous materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response.

[0013] The physiologically acceptable medium generally represents from 1 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0014] By "keratinous material" we mean the skin and / or its appendages, and the lips, in particular the skin of the face and / or body and the lips.

[0015] Another object of the invention relates to a cosmetic treatment method for the skin and / or lips, intended to promote and / or improve skin nutrition, promote and / or improve skin hydration, promote and / or improve the skin barrier function, and / or prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging, comprising the application to the skin and / or lips, in particular the skin of the face and / or neck, of a cosmetic composition as defined in the invention.

[0016] The present invention also relates to a combination of cosmetic active ingredients comprising: i. an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety, preferably summer rosewood, obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent, ii. a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, and iii. an oily extract of rose, in particular of the Evanrat variety.

[0017] Another object of the invention relates to the use of the combination of cosmetic actives according to the invention, as an active combination to promote and / or improve skin nutrition, promote and / or improve skin hydration, promote and / or improve the skin barrier function, and / or prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging, in particular of the skin of the face and / or neck. DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

[0018] [Fig.1] represents histograms showing the expression of the SLC1A4 transporter in normal human keratinocytes treated with HP TB and the different active ingredients of the composition according to the invention, alone and in combination. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0019] A first object of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: i. an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety, preferably summer rosewood, obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent, ii. a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, in particular from fresh petals of Evanrat roses, and iii. an oily extract of rose, in particular of the Evanrat variety.

[0020] Aqueous extract of rosewood and preparation process

[0021] The aqueous extract of rosewood is advantageously obtained using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent.

[0022] The terms “rosewood extract” or “aqueous rosewood extract,” as used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, refer in particular to the polar (hydrophilic) compounds of rosewood that have been solubilized and / or extracted in a polar solvent. Advantageously, this rosewood extract is obtained by an eco-extraction process. It will therefore be referred to as an eco-rosewood extract.

[0023] The term "polar solvent" means that the solvent has a polarity index value equal to or greater than 4. The polarity index is a quantity calculated based on thermodynamic quantities (solubility and phase change) that highlights the more or less polar nature of a molecule. For the polarity indices of solvents, see the article by L.R. Snyder: Classification of the solvent properties of common liquids; Journal of Chromatography, 92 (1974), 223-230.

[0024] Preferred polar solvents are those consisting of a compound comprising at least one polar covalent bond of the OH type.

[0025] As a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent, a solvent or mixture of solvents is chosen from among water, Ci-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, glycols, such as ethylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol and propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, water is used.

[0026] According to a particular method, said rosewood extract is characterized in that it comprises water in a content ranging from 94 to 96%, a dry extract content ranging from 3 to 5% and preservatives in a content ranging from 0.5 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract. Plant material

[0027] The rosewood extracts used in the cosmetic composition of the invention are extracts from the stems of a rosebush. In this invention, they may be referred to interchangeably as a rose extract, a rosebush extract, or an extract specifically of the Evanrat or Jardin de Granville® rose variety.

[0028] A person skilled in the art will preferably choose selected roses whose properties are preserved by an organic environment and farming method. According to a particular and preferred method, a rosewood extract of the Evanrat variety or 'Jardin de Granville®' rose will be used.

[0029] The 'Jardin de Granville®' rose is a hybrid variety offered exclusively by "Roses anciennes André Eve SAS" and protected by Plant Variety Certificate No. 20110345, with the species name Rosa L. and the variety name EVANRAT. This bush rose belongs to the group of modern hybrids, which, from May to October, are continuously covered in roses, thus demonstrating excellent repeat flowering.

[0030] Thus, according to a particular and preferred mode of the invention, the aqueous extract of rosewood used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is an extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety or Jardin de Granville® rose.

[0031] Two types of rosewood are distinguished according to the time of year they are harvested: - winter wood, generally harvested between November and April, - summer wood, generally harvested between May and October.

[0032] According to a particular and preferred method, summerwoods will be used. In the description, the terms rosewood and summer rosewood will be used interchangeably.

[0033] The rosewood used for the preparation of the aqueous rosewood extract used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is obtained from freshly cut whole roses and is isolated from the rest of the plant by manual or mechanical separation.

[0034] Rosewoods include monosaccharide sugars (fructose, glucose), and polysaccharides in particular disaccharides, polyphenols (catechin), amino acids (mainly aspartic acid, tyrosine and arginine), minerals (ash, sodium, potassium, calcium), flavonoids (mostly glycosylated) and tannins.

[0035] In particular, calcium improves epidermal differentiation and strengthens skin structure, while potassium amplifies skin hydration and boosts Energy assimilation. Phytosugars (fructose, glucose) are intended to saturate skin cells with energy.

[0036] According to one embodiment, the aqueous rosewood extract used in the composition of the present invention comprises aspartic acid, tyrosine, and arginine as amino acids and glucose and fructose as total sugars

[0037] According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety is present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention in a concentration ranging from 0.001% to 3% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, the concentration of the aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety is 0.125% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] The aqueous extract of rosewood described above and its extraction process are described in particular in detail in the French application published under No. FR3090380. According to a particular and preferred method, an aqueous extract of rosewood is used as described in Example 1 of this application.

[0039] In particular, after filtration, an aqueous extract of rosewood is obtained at 3.7% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the extract.

[0040] Bioactive serum fraction isolated from roses and preparation method

[0041] The terms "bioactive serum fraction" or "isolated bioactive serum fraction from roses" or "Rose De Granville® Serum," "Zeta," or "Zeta fraction" refer to an extract of roses of the Evanrat variety, or 'Jardin de Granville®' rose, comprising the enzymes, proteins, sugars, ions, and other active molecules present in the cytosol of the cells composing the various plant tissues of roses. The extract according to the invention is distinct from a cryoextract of rose petals as described in application FR3066388. Plant material

[0042] The rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be prepared from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, or 'Jardin de Granville®' roses, frozen, freeze-dried, or any mixture thereof. In the context of the invention, fresh roses are preferably used, more particularly fresh rose petals.

[0043] According to one particular method, summer roses will be used to prepare the isolated bioactive serum fraction of roses, in particular summer rose petals. According to another method, winter roses, in particular winter rose petals, will preferably be used.

[0044] It is particularly advantageous to use the petals of Evanrat variety roses because they are rich in monosaccharide sugars (fructose, glucose, sucrose), organic acids (citric acid, malic acid), polyphenols (catechin), and vitamin C, amino acids (mainly aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine and glutamine), minerals (ash, potassium, calcium), and carotenoids.

[0045] By "rich in monosaccharide sugars" is meant a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive fraction, in which said extract comprises at least 500 pg / pL of at least one monosaccharide sugar selected from fructose, glucose and sucrose.

[0046] By "rich in minerals" is meant a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive fraction, in which said extract comprises at least 500 mg / kg of at least one mineral selected from potassium, calcium and sodium.

[0047] Thus, according to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety and comprising at least 500 pg / pL of at least one monosaccharide sugar selected from fructose, glucose and sucrose, and / or at least 500 mg / kg of at least one mineral selected from potassium, calcium and sodium.

[0048] Advantageously, calcium improves epidermal differentiation and strengthens the skin's structure, while potassium enhances skin hydration and boosts energy assimilation. Phyto-sugars (fructose, glucose, sucrose) help to saturate skin cells with energy. Extraction process

[0049] Fresh roses of the Evanrat variety or 'Jardin de Granville®' roses are used as plant material. According to a preferred method, this consists of fresh petals of roses of the Evanrat variety or 'Jardin de Granville®' roses.

[0050] Advantageously, said process does not require the addition of any solvent or exogenous liquid.

[0051] According to a particular mode, the process implemented to obtain the isolated bioactive serum fraction used according to the invention comprises the main steps of: a. cleaning of the plant material, maceration, pressing and then mechanical separation of the plant material to obtain an intracellular colloidal dispersion (INN) and a fiber-enriched material (fraction A); b. “Treatment A” then mechanical separation of the Intracellular Colloidal Dispersion (ICD) to obtain the Supernatant A and a Membrane Fraction (Fraction B); c. “Treatment B” then mechanical separation of Supernatant A to obtain Supernatant B and Fraction C (Cytoplasmic Fraction); d. “Treatment C” followed by mechanical separation of the Supernatant B to give a “Bioactive Serum Fraction” and a Fraction D (Precipitate); and e. Optionally, mixing of the "bioactive serum fraction" with at least one preservative and / or stabilizer.

[0052] The extract of fresh roses, preferably of fresh rose petals, of the Evanrat variety or 'Jardin de Granville®' rose obtained at the end of this process, is a "bioactive serum fraction" or "bioactive fraction" within the meaning of the invention.

[0053] By "intracellular colloidal dispersion" or "ICD" refers to the liquid material expelled by pressing fresh Granville® roses, preferably fresh petals. The resulting liquid contains dispersed solid and / or semi-solid particles and, potentially, water-immiscible liquid droplets of various sizes (collectively referred to as particles), in a contiguous aqueous medium. The particles consist mainly of plant cell organelles, organelle fragments, and fiber-enriched residual material. The aqueous medium consists mainly of cytosols and vacuoles.

[0054] The extract of Evanrat variety roses, or 'Jardin de Granville®' roses, preferably the extract of Evanrat variety rose petals or 'Jardin de Granville®' roses, according to the invention, is in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction. Compared to known aqueous extracts of the prior art (e.g., aqueous cryo-extract of rose flowers (petals) of application FR3066388), this extract is more concentrated in natural compounds, in particular, sugars such as fructose or glucose, but also polyphenols and minerals. Thus, by virtue of the particular process used to obtain this extract, the rose extract according to the invention is distinct from rose water.

[0055] The "Fresh Granville® Rose Petal Serum Fraction" resulting from steps a) to d) of the above-described process typically comprises 2% to 20% dry matter, preferably 4% to 16% dry matter, and even more preferably 6.0% to 10.0% dry matter.

[0056] According to some embodiments, the serum fraction obtained at the end of step d) is mixed with at least one preservative or at least one stabilizer to give a finished ingredient, or with a combination of these to give the fresh Granville® rose extract or "Granville® Rose Serum", preferably the fresh Granville® rose petal extract or "Granville® Rose Petal Serum".

[0057] Particularly suitable stabilizing agents may include, without limitation, a preservative, a stabilizer, and / or mixtures thereof. Preservatives and stabilizers suitable for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, sodium metabisulfite, glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and caprylyl glycol. In a In a particular embodiment, the stabilizing agents may include at least one preservative, at least one stabilizer, at least one antioxidant, or mixtures thereof.

[0058] According to a particular embodiment, the rose extract, preferably rose petal extract, used in the context of the invention comprises water in a content ranging from 90 to 94%, and a dry extract content ranging from 6 to 10%. This rose extract, preferably rose petal extract, in the form of a bioactive fraction isolated according to the invention, is designated by its INCI name Rosa Hybrid Flower Extract.

[0059] According to another particular embodiment, the rose extract, preferably rose petal extract, used in the context of the invention comprises water in a content of 89 to 93%, a dry extract content of 6 to 10% and preservatives and / or stabilizers in a content of 0.3 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract.

[0060] The technical characteristics of each step of the extraction process mentioned above, as well as those of the rose extract obtained by this process, are described in detail in the French application published under No. FR3130619.

[0061] Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the process implemented to obtain the rose extract according to the invention comprises the steps of: a. cleaning of plant material, maceration, pressing then mechanical separation of plant material to obtain an intracellular colloidal dispersion (ICD) and a material enriched in fibers (fraction A); b. destabilization of the DCI with electromagnetic waves then mechanical separation of the intracellular colloidal dispersion (DCI) to obtain the supernatant A and a Membrane Fraction (fraction B); c. adjusting the pH level in supernatant A until a pH greater than 6 is obtained, preferably a pH ranging from 6 to 7, then mechanically separating supernatant A to obtain supernatant B and fraction C (cytoplasmic fraction); d. adjusting the pH level in supernatant B until a pH below 4.5 is obtained, then mechanically separating supernatant B to give a "Bioactive Serum Fraction" and a D fraction (precipitate); and e. Optionally, mixing of the "bioactive serum fraction" with at least one preservative and / or stabilizer.

[0062] According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the isolated bioactive serum fraction prepared in Example 1.1 of French patent application No. FR3130619, as detailed below, is used. Fresh rose petals of the Evanrat variety or "Jardin de Granville®" rose are used as plant material. The bioactive serum fraction of rose petals used according to the invention is obtained according to the following protocol: a) cleaning fresh rose petals by spraying with water at a temperature of approximately 12°C, for 0.1 to 0.3 minutes at a flow rate of 5 to 6 liters per minute, a2) maceration, pressing then mechanical separation of the roses using a mechanical screw press (model CP-6 Vincent Corporation, FL) to extract the contents of the liquid intercellular colloidal dispersion (ICD) of the fiber-enriched material (“Fraction A”); b1) destabilization of the DCI with electromagnetic waves produced from magnetrons operating at a frequency between 2.45 and 5.8 GHz, b2) centrifugation of the intracellular colloidal dispersion (DCI) to obtain the supernatant A and a Membrane Fraction (fraction B); (c) Adjustment of the pH level in the supernatant A by an alkali (i.e., potassium carbonate), in order to obtain a pH ranging from 6 to 7, c2) mechanical separation of supernatant A to obtain supernatant B and fraction C (cytoplasmic fraction); dl) Adjustment of the pH level in supernatant B by citric acid in order to obtain a pH less than 4.5, d2) mechanical separation of supernatant B to give a "serum fraction of fresh Granville rose petals®" and a fraction D (precipitate); and e) mixture of the “fragment of fresh rose petal serum from Granville®” with potassium sorbate and sodium benzoate.

[0063] Granville® Rose Petal Serum (also called "Zeta Serum" or "Zf Serum" in the following examples) contains 8% dry matter (active ingredient), 91.5% water by weight, 0.15% potassium sorbate by weight, and 0.3% sodium benzoate by weight. These amounts are expressed as weights relative to the total weight of the extract. The INCI name of this extract is Rosa Hybrid Flower Extract, Potassium Sorbate, and Sodium Benzoate.

[0064] According to one embodiment, the bioactive serum fraction isolated from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety may be present in the cosmetic composition of the invention in a concentration ranging from 0.005% to 1%, and in particular from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, the concentration of this fraction is 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Rose oil extract and preparation process

[0065] In the description, we will speak interchangeably of oily extract, nonpolar extract, or lipophilic rose extract.

[0066] The rose oil extract used in the context of the invention is inspired by Porter and Frankel's polar paradox theory of antioxidants, or the physicochemical behavior of antioxidants in a continuous oil system and in dispersed system allowing hydrophilic compounds (antioxidants or phenols for example) to become miscible in oily compounds containing for example phospholipids (molecules with polar functions) under physicochemical actions produced by ultrasound and microwaves.

[0067] More simply, it involves using an oil or a fatty substance, and in particular a vegetable oil, as a biologically active agro-solvent, to selectively extract molecules from a plant, in particular a rose, with a high-performance technology based on physical principles, to obtain a concentrated oil complex, a stable vector ready for formulation.

[0068] By "rose oil extract" according to the invention, it is understood in particular that the nonpolar (lipophilic) compounds of the rose flowers have been solubilized and / or extracted in an oil. Plant material

[0069] The rose oil extract used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be prepared from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, or 'Jardin de Granville®' roses, frozen, freeze-dried, or any mixture thereof. In the context of the invention, fresh roses are preferably used, more particularly fresh rose petals.

[0070] Thus, in a particular embodiment, the rose oil extract used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a rose oil extract of the Evanrat variety or Jardin de Granville® rose, in particular an oil extract of rose petals of the Evanrat variety or Jardin de Granville® roses.

[0071] According to one particular method, summer roses, especially summer rose petals, will be used to prepare the rose oil extract. According to another method, winter roses, especially winter rose petals, will preferably be used. Extraction process

[0072] The rose oil extract according to the invention can be obtained according to the classic methods known to those skilled in the art, such as, for example, maceration methods in an oil-type solvent, such as, for example, described in WO2008 / 132127 or FR2693906, possibly under microwave radiation as described in FR2694300 to reduce the extraction time.

[0073] According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the rose oil extract is obtained by a dynamic extraction method (also known as "dynamic enfleurage") which is carried out by energetically activating the plant and the carrier oil to achieve active mass transfer, with a pumping effect from the more concentrated medium to the less concentrated one. The process combines short-duration multi-steps (cryomilling, ultrasound, microwaves, filtration) (each step <15 min) and Inerting in nitrogen and protection from light during the transformation limits oxidation phenomena.

[0074] This allows the plant cells to be opened, the environment to be disorganized to make extractable molecules that are usually insoluble in oils; they become miscible with the oily support according to a dynamic rearrangement.

[0075] The total phenol content is indeed advantageously higher with the so-called "dynamic enfleurage" extraction method compared to a "classic enfleurage" extraction method (conventional maceration), by a factor of 25 to 40. This method effectively extracts the phenols contained in the rose compared to a traditional enfleurage method and also with a polar solvent such as water.

[0076] Such a process is described in particular in application WO2010 / 112760. In particular, the process comprises: - at least one step a) of mixing and impregnating the solid raw material with a natural fat at a temperature above the melting point of the oil and under an atmosphere devoid or essentially devoid of oxygen, - at least one step b) of heating the mixture to a high temperature for a very short time and under an atmosphere devoid or essentially devoid of oxygen, using microwaves, - at least one step c) of micro-dispersion of the material to be extracted and possibly rupture of the cells of the raw material in the natural fat at a temperature above the melting point of the fat and under an atmosphere devoid or essentially devoid of oxygen, using ultrasound, - step c) can be carried out before, during or after step b).

[0077] The raw material is preferably pre-ground at low temperature, between -20°C and -80°C (cryo-grinding).

[0078] Advantageously, during step c) or just before, an oxygen-scavenging or reducing compound, a compound enabling the regeneration in reduced form of the tocopherols of the oil as well as the phenolic compounds extracted in the oil by the process or a chelator of pro-oxidant metals is added, these compounds contributing to improving the oxidative stability of the final product.

[0079] Vegetable oils or fats that can be used as an extraction vector for the oily extract according to the invention include, in particular, the following vegetable oils and fats: - vegetable oils such as: deodorized high oleic sunflower oil, virgin sweet almond oil, rose oil, virgin rosehip oil, oil avocado oil, safflower oil, camelina oil, jojoba oil, borage oil, grapeseed oil, argan oil, black cumin oil, pumpkin seed oil, or perilla oil, and mixtures thereof, - butters such as: Murumuru butter, Mango butter, Shea butter, and their blends, - vegetable waxes such as: carnauba wax, beeswax, candelilla wax, jojoba wax, and their mixtures, - and their mixtures.

[0080] Rose oil, in particular refined rosehip oil, will be used preferentially.

[0081] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio between the raw material (rose flowers) and the oil (in particular rose oil) in the starting mixture implemented in step a) is between 1:0.5 and 1:10, preferably between 1:1 and 1:5 expressed in mass: mass of oil or mass: volume of oil.

[0082] According to a preferred method, the rose oil extract according to the invention is obtained by the following process: frozen fresh flowers are cryo-ground and mixed with rose oil, in particular in a dry plant / oil ratio ranging from 1:10 to 1:5, then various successive extraction steps are carried out by microwave extraction followed by ultrasound. A centrifugal filtration step yields a precious oil whose stability has been preserved because each step has been meticulously performed under nitrogen inerting. We obtain the rose oil concentrate or rose oil extract, which is a "dynamic" enfleurage of the Rose Jardin de Granville®.

[0083] According to a preferred mode, the rose oil extract according to the invention comprises 98.5%-99.5% rose oil and 0.5-1.5% by weight of rose extract (dry matter or active matter from rose extract).

[0084] The INCI name of this rose oil extract is ROSA CANINA FRUIT OIL (and) ROSE EXTRACT.

[0085] According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the rose oil extract comprises an extract of rose flowers in a vegetable oil, preferably a rose oil, in particular in a weight ratio of 1:99 to 10:90 (vegetable extract: oil).

[0086] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the rose oil extract is present in the composition at a concentration ranging from 0.001% to 1%, in particular from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of said composition. More preferably, the concentration of rose oil extract is 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] Analysis of the composition of an oily extract of rose of the Evanrat variety or Jardin de Granville® rose shows that it is rich in non-polar micronutrients and in particular: - fatty acids (major components) • C16:0 (palmitic acid) • Cl8:0 (stearic acid) • C18:l (oleic acid - omega 9) • Cl8:2 (linoleic acid-omega 6) • C20:0 (arachidic acid) • C20:1 (eicosenoic acid - omega 9) • C22:0 (behenic acid) - fat-soluble vitamins (α-tocopherol) - sterols [3-sitosterol and stigmasterol, and - nonpolar phenols.

[0088] Thus, in a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises: i. an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety, obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent, ii. a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, and iii. an oily extract of roses of the Evanrat variety, in particular of fresh roses of the Evanrat variety.

[0089] In a particularly preferred embodiment, in the composition according to the invention, i. The aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety is present in a content ranging from 0.001% to 3%, in particular from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, ii. The bioactive serum fraction isolated from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety is present in a content ranging from 0.005% to 1%, in particular from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and iii. Rose oil extract, in particular from roses of the Evanrat variety, is present in a content ranging from 0.001% to 1%, in particular from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0090] In an even more preferred embodiment, in the composition according to the invention, i. The aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety is present at a content of 0.125% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, ii. The bioactive serum fraction isolated from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety is present at a concentration of 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and iii. Rose oil extract, in particular from roses of the Evanrat variety, is present at a content of 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] Advantageously the weight ratio between the aqueous rosewood extract, the isolated bioactive serum fraction of roses and the oily rose extract in the final cosmetic composition will range from 25:5:1 to 25:1:5, preferably 25:5:1 in active matter.

[0092] According to a particular mode, the cosmetic composition of the invention does not include any other rose extract than the rose extracts described according to the invention. GALENIQUE

[0093] By "topical use" or "topical application" is meant a composition intended for application to keratinous materials. In fact, an oral composition is not intended for topical application to the skin.

[0094] According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it is a skin and / or lip care composition, in particular a skin care composition.

[0095] A composition for topical application according to the invention may, for example, be in the form of a cream, oil-in-water emulsion, or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, solution, suspension, gel, milk, lotion, serum, or balm.

[0096] According to a particular mode, the cosmetic composition of the invention is in the form of a lotion, a skincare cream, a serum, a balm, a facial fluid, a facial and / or body care gel, a lip care composition, a lip balm, a lipstick, or a gloss.

[0097] In a preferred embodiment, said composition used according to the invention is in the form of a cream, a serum or a balm.

[0098] Advantageously, a cosmetic composition comprising at least one aqueous phase and at least one oily or greasy phase will be used in which each rose extract according to the invention, depending on its polarity, can be optimally dispersed and thus fully express its effects upon application of the composition to the skin.

[0099] Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase comprising said aqueous rosewood extract (i) and said rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction (ii), and at least one oily or fatty phase comprising said oily rose extract (iii).

[0100] Aqueous phase

[0101] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

[0102] The term "water-soluble solvent" according to the invention means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure). Examples include: - lower C1-C5 monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and their mixtures; - C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and their mixtures; - C2-C32 polyols such as polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and their mixtures, - and their mixtures.

[0103] It may also include hydrophilic gelling agents, antioxidants, preservatives and mixtures thereof.

[0104] Examples of hydrophilic gelling agents include polyacrylic acids such as those with INCI name Carbomer or commercial reference Carbopol®, carboxyvinyl polymers, associative thickeners of the acrylic or polyurethane type, polysaccharide gelling agents such as alginates, xanthan gums, carrageenan gums, agar gums, cellulose derivatives, gelatin, mineral gelling agents such as bentones or modified silicas, and mixtures thereof.

[0105] Oily or fatty phase

[0106] The cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises a fatty (solid fats) or oily phase.

[0107] The term "oil phase" means an oil or a mixture of oils, whether miscible with each other or not. For the purposes of this invention, "oil" means a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0108] An oily phase according to the invention may include hydrocarbon, silicone, fluorinated or non-fluorinated oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0109] These oils can be volatile or non-volatile, vegetable, mineral or synthetic.

[0110] By "hydrocarbon oil", according to the invention, we mean an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0111] By "siliconized oil", according to the invention, means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0112] According to the invention, "fluoridated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

[0113] Examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils include, in particular, vegetable-derived hydrocarbon oils, synthetic C10-C40 ethers, and esters of synthesis in C10-C40, fatty alcohols in C12-C26, higher fatty acids in C12-C22, and their mixtures.

[0114] Examples of non-volatile silicone oils include phenylated silicone oils, non-phenylated silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0115] The oily or fatty phase may also include lipophilic gelling agents, film-forming polymers, surfactants, antioxidants and mixtures thereof.

[0116] The fat or oily phase content in the cosmetic composition of the invention will generally range from 0.2% to 45%, preferably from 0.5% to 30%, and even more preferably from 2% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0117] Preferred embodiments according to the invention are methods of obtaining a dispersion of an oily phase containing rose oil extract in an aqueous phase containing rosewood aqueous extract and rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction. In one particular embodiment, this will be an oil-in-water emulsion in which the size of the oil droplets or beads can vary from a few nanometers to a few millimeters depending on the desired effect.

[0118] A person skilled in the art will be able to choose the appropriate embodiment, referring in particular to the following publication for the definition and size of the different types of emulsion: Emulsion Formation, Stability, and Rheology, Prof. Dr. Tharwat F. Tadros, Published Online: 29 J AN 2013, DOI: 10.1002 / 9783527647941.chl, http: / / onlinelibrary.wiley.com / doi / 10.1002 / 9783527647941.chl / summary.

[0119] A person skilled in the art will know how to choose the method of measuring the size of the particles and their distribution according to the expected size range, either by dynamic or static scattering of light for drops ranging from 5 nm to 100 pm, referring in particular to the following publication: “Light Scattering by Small Particles” by HC van de Hulst, May 24, 1982, or by image analysis for drops or spheroids larger than 100 pm.

[0120] The composition of the invention may also include any additive commonly used in cosmetics such as antioxidants, perfumes, cosmetic active agents, such as emollients, moisturizing agents, vitamins, anti-aging agents, lifting agents, firming agents, plumping agents, brightening agents, fillers, mother-of-pearl and mixtures thereof. COSMETIC PROCESS

[0121] The invention also relates to a cosmetic skin and / or lip care treatment method, in particular a cosmetic skin and / or lip treatment method intended to promote and / or improve skin nutrition, promote and / or improve skin hydration, promote and / or improve the skin barrier function, and / or prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging, comprising the application to the skin and / or lips, in particular the skin, of a cosmetic composition as defined according to the invention.

[0122] By "skin and / or lips" according to the invention, we mean in particular healthy skin and / or lips, that is to say, not showing any disorders or disturbances which would be indicative of a pathological condition ('unhealthy' subjects, suffering from a pathology).

[0123] The composition can be applied to the body, face and / or neck. According to a particular method, the composition is applied to the face and / or neck.

[0124] According to a particular method, the application of the composition as defined according to the invention on the skin and / or lips is intended to promote and / or improve skin nutrition; promote and / or improve the skin barrier function, and / or prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging, in particular the loss of tone, loss of elasticity and / or loss of firmness of the skin and / or the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines.

[0125] In particular, the composition of the invention is applied to dry, fragile skin, especially to tired skin that has lost its firmness, suppleness and elasticity. Asset association and uses

[0126] The present invention also relates to a combination of cosmetic active ingredients comprising: i. an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety, preferably summer rosewood, obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent, ii. a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, and iii. an oily extract of rose, in particular of the Evanrat variety.

[0127] The invention also relates to the use, in particular non-therapeutic cosmetics, of the combination of cosmetic active ingredients as defined above, as an active combination to promote and / or improve skin nutrition, promote and / or improve skin hydration, promote and / or improve the skin barrier function, and / or prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging, in particular of the skin of the face and / or neck.

[0128] The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, percentages (%) are expressed as percentages (%) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1: Active ingredients in cosmetic compositions

[0129] The cosmetic active ingredients used in the experimental tests carried out within the framework of the present invention are listed below: - an extract of Granville rosewood (variety EVANRAT) as prepared according to example 1 of the French application published under No. FR3090380 (called "Wood" in the examples below); - a bioactive serum fraction isolated from Granville rose (variety EVANRAT) as prepared according to example 1.1 of the French application published under No. FR3130619 (called "Zeta" in the examples below); - an oily extract of Granville rose flowers (variety EVANRAT) as prepared according to the process described in patent application WO2010 / 112760 by replacing sunflower oil with rose oil (called "Rosa Oil" in the examples below).

[0130] Example 2: Protocol for studying the expression of genes of interest in keratinocyte culture

[0131] Normal human keratinocytes (NHKs) are cultured in 12-well plates. The cells are treated with 200 pM tert-butyl hydroperoxide (TBHP) for 1 hour, a compound that induces oxidative stress in the cells. The cells are then treated for 24 hours with active ingredients at the following concentrations: - Aqueous extract of rosewood (Granville rose) ("Wood"): 0.25% - Isolated bioactive serum fraction of rose (extract of pressed flowers of Granville rose - "Zeta"): 0.05% - Rose oil extract (from Granville rose flowers) ("Rosa Oil"): 0.01% - combination of aqueous extract of rosewood ("Wood") 0.125% + isolated bioactive serum fraction of rose ("Zeta") 0.05% - combination of aqueous rosewood extract ("Bois") 0.125% + isolated bioactive serum fraction of rose ("Zeta") 0.05% + oily rose extract ("Rosa Oil") 0.01%

[0132] RNAs are extracted according to the classic protocol, RNA quantification then TLDA map according to the classic protocol.

[0133] After processing the KHN, a Taqman Low Density Array (TLDA) study on the genes studied is carried out from the cDNAs obtained after reverse transcription of the extracted total RNAs. KHN Culture

[0134] Normal human keratinocytes are obtained from a skin graft obtained during plastic surgery. The cells are cultured in complete Epilife medium with a seeding density of 50,000 cells per well, in 12-well plates. At sub-confluence, the cells are treated for 24 hours with the doses of rose extract described above, after having treated them for 1 hour with TBHP at 200 pM. TLD A (TaqMan Low Density Array) technology

[0135] Obtaining total RNA

[0136] The cell culture medium is removed, and 250 pL of RLT lysis buffer (provided in the Nucleospin RNA Trace Kit, Macherey-Nagel) is added. The cells are scraped using a cell scraper, and the cell lysate is collected in a 1.2 mL deepwell (provided in the Nucleospin RNA Kit). Total RNA is extracted according to the defined protocols.

[0137] The total RNA solutions obtained are quantified, and their quality verified using a microplate reader, the SpectrostarNANO (BMG Labtech) coupled to the MicrolabSTAR. This device is connected to the computer controlling the robotic platform and has specific software for analyzing the results (MARS software). The technique requires a 384-well microplate (LoBase), a positive control (RNA 250, AM7155, Thermo Fisher Scientific) to validate the pipetting performed by the robot and the values ​​generated by the SpectrostarNANO reader.

[0138] Synthesis of complementary DNA

[0139] The reverse transcription (RT) kit used was the High Capacity Reverse Transcription Kit (Thermo Fisher). It was used according to the provided protocol. 500 ng of total RNA were diluted in water to a final volume of 25 pL. They were then incubated for 10 min at 25°C and then for 2 h at 37°C in the presence of 25 pL of the High Capacity Reverse Transcription Kit 2X reaction mixture previously prepared as described below. The various incubations were carried out inside the TRobot (Biometra).

[0140] [Tables 1 Reagents RT buffer dNTP Primer RNase OUT RT h2o Volume 5 pL 2 pL 5 pL 0.5 pL 2.5 pL 10 pL

[0141] Table 1: Reaction Mixture High Capacity Reverse Transcription Kit 2X for 1 reaction PCR-TaqMan Low Density Array

[0142] 15 pL of each RT are mixed with 60 pL of water and then 75 pL of TaqMan Gene Expression master mix (ThermoFisher), containing DNA polymerase, is added. After homogenization, 100 pL is loaded onto microfluidic cards containing probes corresponding to the genes being tested (Table 2 below). These cards are then centrifuged and sealed. The CD-ROM containing the gene profiles loaded onto the plates is loaded into the SDS 2.3 software, specifying the location of each gene on the card. The control gene (or "endogenous" gene) to be used for normalizing the results must be indicated before starting the PCR. The PCR is performed according to the protocol provided by Applied Biosystems in the ABI instrument. Prism 7900HT Sequence detection System. The qPCR steps are 2 min at 50°C, 10 min at 94.5°C then 30s at 97°C and 1 min at 59.7°C for 40 cycles.

[0143] [Tables2] Gene Symbol Reference Taq Man Ref seq Accession No. GeneBank Aquaporin 9 AQP9 Hs01033361_ml NM_001320635.1 Aquaporin 3 AQP3 Hs00185020_ml NM_001318144.2 Aquaporin 10 AQP10 Hs00369738_ml NM_080429.3 Patatin e-domain phospholipase PNPLA1 Hs00543592_ml NM_001039725.1 Transglutaminase I TGM1 Hs00165929_ml NM_000359.3 Kallikrein 7 KLK7 Hs00192503_ml NM_001207053.2 Zinc finger protein 750 ZNF750 Hs00363852_ml NM_024702.3 Desmoglein 1 DSG1 Hs00170047_ml NM_001942.4 Proline-rich small protein IB SPRR1B Hs00824893_ml NM_003125.3 Peptide 3 inhibitor PI3 Hs00160066_ml NM_002638.4 Cytokeratin I KRT1 Hs00196158_ml NM_006121.4

[0144] Table 2: List of genes tested Statistical analyses

[0145] Quantitative real-time PCR can be used if its efficiency is between 90% and 110%. For each sample, the number of cycles at which the signal appears is determined by the SDS 2.3 software. For the same assay, the expression levels of the transcripts of interest obtained are normalized with respect to the value obtained for the housekeeping gene Beta-2-microglobulin. This gene, whose expression is constitutive and invariant, eliminates any variation induced during the experiment (total RNA assay, pipetting, reverse transcription step, PCR in the instrument).

[0146] In the RT-PCR TLDA method, quantification is performed using the comparative method of AACt. The relative quantification (RQ) values ​​obtained correspond to the amplitude level (x times greater or less than the control) of the expression relative to our control, here the untreated sample. The RQ is obtained by the following calculation where the control is equal to 1:

[0147] RQ = ^AACt _ ^-(ACt treated - ACt untreated)

[0148] ACt treated = Ct target gene treated - Ct housekeeping gene treated

[0149] Untreated ACt = Untreated target gene Ct - Untreated housekeeping gene Ct

[0150] To assess statistically significant variations in transcriptional activity, Student's t-test was used. Each condition was performed in triplicate (3 untreated and 3 treated under the same conditions). Fisher's F-test was first applied by comparing the two data matrices. When the value is greater than a = 0.05, the variance for Student's t-test is 2; when Fisher's F-test is less than a = 0.05, the variance is 3. The transcriptional variations retained were those with a Student's t-test less than a = 0.05.

[0151] Results are presented as an average over n=3. Student's t-test was used to compare the effect between treated and untreated cells. A significant effect compared to the control (value of 1.0) is a result > 1.5.

[0152] The results are considered significant for p < 0.05 (*) or p < 0.01 (**).

[0153] Example 3: Effect of cosmetic active ingredients alone or in combination on the function barrier

[0154] The inventors studied the effect of the cosmetic active ingredients used in the cosmetic composition of the invention, listed in Example 1, on the expression of genes (listed in Table 2) involved in cell cohesion, epidermal differentiation, or epidermal homeostasis, and thus participating in the regulation of the skin barrier function, in the presence of oxidative stress (TBHP). This study was carried out on keratinocyte cultures following the protocol detailed in Example 2.

[0155] Tables 3 and 4 below present the results obtained.

[0156] [Tables3] Wood Gene Rosa Oil Zeta Wood + Zeta Wood + Zeta + Rosa Oil HYDRATION AQP3 3.033 (+203%) 1.282 (ns) 0.848 (ns) 3.185 (+218%) 4.096 (+309%) AQP9 2.529 (+152%) 0.854 (ns) 0.683 (-31%) 2.346 (+134%) 3.125 (+212%) AQP10 2.050 (+105%) 2.057 (+105%) 1.151 (ns) 1.287 (ns) 2.495 (+149%) LIPID METABOLISM PNPLA1 2.791 (+179%) 1.263 (ns) ND ND 5.436 (+443%)

[0157] ND: Not detected. It was not possible to detect the presence of RNA corresponding to the target gene

[0158] ns: not significant

[0159] [Tables4] Wood Gene Rosa Oil Zeta Wood + Zeta Wood + Zeta + Rosa Oil DIFFERENTIATION / BARRIER FUNCTION TGM1 2.546 (+154%) 1.020 (ns) 0.905 (ns) 2.358 (+135%) 4.230 (+323%) KLK7 1.973 (+97%) 0.901 (ns) 0.852 (ns) 1.860 (+86%) 2.708 (+170%) SPRR1B 2.511 (+151%) 1.022 (ns) 0.804 (ns) 1.822 (+82%) 3.987 (+298%) KRT1 0.939 (ns) 1.046 (ns) 0.433 (-56%) 0.549 (-45%) 3,562 (+256%) ZNF750 6,946 (+ 594%) 1,207 (ns) 1,167 (ns) 4,806 (+3 80%) 10,177 (+91 7%) ADHESION / COH ESION DSG1 1,922 (+ 92%) 0.836 (ns) 0.755 (ns) 1.3 (ns) 3,672 (+267%) HYDRATION AQP3 3,055 (+ 205%) 1,167 (ns) 0.892 (ns) 3,013 (+2 01%) 4,222 (+322%) AQP9 2,045 (+ 104%) 0.999 (ns) 0.819 (ns) 1,720 (+7 2%) 4,163 (+316 %) AQP10 1,368 (ns) 1,076 (ns) 1,151 (ns) 0,841 (ns) 2,138 (+113%) IMMUNITY PI3 3,151 (+ 215%) 1,102 (ns) 0.851 (ns) 3,388 (+2 28%) 5,528 (+452%)

[0160] ND: Not detected. It was not possible to detect the presence of RNA corresponding to the target gene.

[0161] ns: not significant

[0162] Unexpectedly, the Applicant showed that the combination of the three active ingredients has a synergistic effect on the expression of many genes involved in hydration, lipid metabolism, differentiation / barrier function, adhesion / cohesion, hydration and immunity, i.e. an effect greater than the sum of the effects of each of the active ingredients taken separately.

[0163] These results show that the active combination according to the invention (rosewood extract + isolated bioactive serum fraction of rose (ZETA) + rose oil extract) significantly increases: - the expression of the AQP3, AQP9 and AQ10 genes compared to the expression of these same genes when keratinocytes, under oxidative stress, are treated only with one of the active ingredients. It is thus demonstrated that the composition according to the invention stimulates the mediators of skin hydration; - the expression of the PNPLA1 gene compared to the expression of the same gene when keratinocytes, under oxidative stress, are treated only with one of the active ingredients. It is thus demonstrated that the composition according to the invention has an impact on lipid metabolism in the skin; the expression of the TGM1, KLK7, SPRR1B, KRT1 and ZNF750 genes compared to the expression of these same genes when keratinocytes, under oxidative stress, are treated only with one of the active ingredients. It is thus demonstrated that the composition according to the invention stimulates mediators of epidermal differentiation and barrier function; - the expression of the DSG1 gene compared to the expression of these same genes when keratinocytes, under oxidative stress, are treated only with one of the active ingredients. It is thus demonstrated that the composition according to the invention stimulates mediators of adhesion / cohesion; - the expression of the PI3 gene compared to the expression of these same genes when keratinocytes, under oxidative stress, are treated only with one of the active ingredients. It is thus demonstrated that the composition according to the invention stimulates mediators of skin immunity.

[0164] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is therefore advantageous for promoting and / or stimulating the skin barrier function and in particular for promoting the firmness, suppleness and elasticity of the skin.

[0165] Example 4: Study of nutrient transporter expression by imaging on normal human keratinocytes Materials and methods

[0166] Culture of KHN and immunofluorescence

[0167] Normal human keratinocytes were obtained from a skin graft obtained during plastic surgery. The cells were cultured in complete EpiLife™ medium and placed in 96-well plates at a density of 50,000 cells per well. After 24 h of culture, the cells were treated with calcium to initiate the differentiation process. The cells were then treated for 1 h with 200 pM TBHP, followed by a curative treatment with the ingredients for 24 h. The cells then The cells were fixed with a 10% formalin solution for 10 min, rinsed with PBS, and then permeabilized with a PBS solution containing 0.1% Triton X-100 for 10 min. After further PBS washes, a saturation step was performed by adding a PBS solution containing 1% BSA for 30 min. The cells were then rinsed and incubated with the following antibody series: - Primary antibody directed against the SLC1A4 protein. - Secondary anti-rabbit antibody coupled to Alexa 568.

[0168] Observation of the marking and quantification

[0169] Acquisitions were performed using a plate scanner (ArrayScan XTI, Thermo Cellomics) with an xlO objective. 25 images per well were acquired. Quantification was performed by measuring the total intensity of SLC1A4 labeling per cell. Significance was assessed using a Student's t-test. Results

[0170] The results obtained are presented in [Fig.1].

[0171] A negative effect of TBHP on the expression of the amino acid transporter SLC1A4 is observed in normal differentiated human keratinocytes.

[0172] A significant increase in the expression of the SLC1A4 transporter is observed when keratinocytes are treated with the composition according to the invention comprising the combination of the 3 active ingredients.

[0173] These results therefore demonstrate that the composition according to the invention makes it possible to protect the SLC1A4 transporter from TBHP-induced stress.

[0174] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is therefore advantageous for promoting and / or improving skin nutrition. Example 4#: Formulations 4.1. Composition in the form of an emulsion

[0175] [Tables5] Ingredients % Aqueous phase Demineralized water q.s. 100.0% Glycols 20.0% Preservatives 0.6% Chelating agent 0.04% Carbomer (Carbopol® 981) 0.3% Sodium polyacrylate (Covacryl® MV6 0) 0.2% Sodium Hydroxide 0.15% Aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention* 3.0% Isolated bioactive serum fraction of rose according to the invention* 0.2% Oily phase Oily extract of rose flowers according to the invention* 2.0% Vegetable oil, esters, silicones 16% Antioxidant 0.2% Perfume concentrate 0.4% Steareth-2 0.8% Steareth-21 1.5%

[0176] * as described in Example 1

[0177] The composition is prepared according to the following procedure: - the gelling agents are dispersed in the aqueous phase (excluding aqueous extract of rosewood and sodium hydroxide) which is heated to 70°C; - the oil phase (excluding perfume concentrate and antioxidant) is heated to 70°C; - the emulsion is made by introducing the oily phase into the aqueous phase under vigorous agitation; - the gelling agents are neutralized by adding sodium hydroxide and the emulsion is cooled under moderate stirring with the introduction of the perfume concentrate, the antioxidant and the aqueous extract of rosewood at low temperature.

[0178] When applied to the skin, particularly the skin of the face, this composition provides tone, elasticity and firmness, features are enhanced, and the face is reshaped.

[0179] 4.2. Composition in the form of an aqueous facial gel

[0180] [Tableauxô] Ingredients % Isolated bioactive rose serum fraction* 0.5% Aqueous rosewood extract according to the invention* 1.0% Oily rose flower extract according to the invention* 2.0% Preservatives 0.50% Sugar 0.20% Carbomer 0.70% Purified water q.s. 100% Tetrasodium EDTA powder 0.20% Sodium hydroxide 0.17%

[0181] * as described in Example 1

[0182] The composition is prepared according to the following procedure:

[0183] The cosmetic active ingredients of the composition according to the invention and the preservatives are mixed and homogenized at room temperature with stirring. The sugars are added with stirring, then the carbomer, then the water and EDTA with stirring. The aqueous gel is then neutralized by adding sodium hydroxide with stirring until a homogeneous gel is obtained. 4.3. Lip balm

[0184] [Tables?] Ingredients % Silica 10% Nylon powder 7% Polyethylene wax 17% Glycerin 14% Isolated bioactive serum fraction of rose* 0.5% Aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention* 3% Oily extract of rose flowers according to the invention* 2% Butylene glycol 5% Isopropyl myristate q.s.l. 0.00

[0185] * as described in Example 1

[0186] This composition is prepared by mixing the ingredients according to the classic methods of formulating balms.

[0187] This lip balm, after application to dry and / or fragile lips, helps to moisturize and smooth them.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety, preferably summer rosewood, obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent, (ii) a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, in particular from fresh petals of roses of the Evanrat variety and (iii) an oily extract of rose, in particular of the Evanrat variety.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the aqueous extract of rosewood comprises aspartic acid, tyrosine, and arginine as amino acids and glucose and fructose as total sugars.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction comprises at least 500 pg / pL of at least one monosaccharide sugar selected from fructose, glucose and sucrose, and / or at least 500 mg / kg of at least one mineral selected from potassium, calcium and sodium.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the rose oil extract comprises a rose flower extract in a vegetable oil, preferably a rose oil, in particular in a weight ratio of 1:99 to 10:90 (vegetable oil extract).

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it comprises at least one aqueous phase comprising said aqueous rosewood extract (i) and said rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction (ii), and at least one oily or fatty phase comprising said oily rose extract (iii).

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that: (i) aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety is present in a content ranging from 0.001% to 3%, in particular from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, (ii) the bioactive serum fraction isolated from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety is present in a content ranging from 0.005% to 1%, in particular from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and (iii) the rose oil extract is present in a content ranging from 0.001% to 1%, in particular from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it is in the form of a lotion, a care cream, a serum, a balm, a facial fluid, a facial and / or body care gel, a lip care composition, a lip balm, a lipstick, or a gloss.

8. A cosmetic treatment method for the skin and / or lips, intended to promote and / or improve skin nutrition, promote and / or improve skin hydration, promote and / or improve the skin barrier function, and / or prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging, comprising the application to the skin and / or lips, in particular the skin of the face and / or neck, of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 7.

9. Combination of cosmetic actives comprising: (i) an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety, preferably summer rosewood, obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent, (ii) a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, and (iii) an oily extract of rose, in particular of the Evanrat variety.

10. Use of the combination according to claim 9, as an active combination to promote and / or improve skin nutrition, promote and / or improve skin hydration, promote and / or improve skin barrier function, and / or prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging, in particular of the skin of the face and / or neck.

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