Compositions and cleaning processes of keratinous materials
A combination of surfactants and film-forming agents in sulfate-free personal care compositions achieves abundant lather and desirable hair properties, addressing the challenges of sulfate-free formulations.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024008224
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-07-25
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-30
- Estimated Expiration
- 2034-07-25
AI Technical Summary
Developing personal care cleansing compositions that are free or substantially free of sulfate-based surfactants, which effectively lather, have a desired viscosity, and provide beneficial properties to keratinous materials, while avoiding the drawbacks of sulfate-based surfactants such as skin and hair dryness, bleaching, and irritation, has been challenging.
A unique combination of surfactants and film-forming agents, including a first anionic surfactant, a second anionic surfactant, and optionally amphoteric and nonionic surfactants, along with film-forming agents like plant-based polysaccharides, creates compositions that generate abundant lather, maintain viscosity, and impart desirable cosmetic properties to hair.
The compositions provide abundant, thick, and creamy lather, enhancing hair properties like detangling, softness, curl definition, smooth texture, shine, and frizz control, while being free of sulfate-based surfactants.
Smart Images

Figure 00000049_0000 
Figure 00000050_0000 
Figure 00000050_0001
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: compositions and methods for cleaning keratinous materials technical field
[0001] The disclosure relates to compositions for cleaning keratinous materials, and methods for using the compositions. The compositions are free or substantially free of sulfate-based surfactants. CONTEXT
[0002] Personal care cleansing compositions such as shampoo, foaming gel, facial cleanser, etc., use anionic cleansing surfactants to remove sebum and exogenous contaminants such as dirt, makeup, styling products, etc., from the surface of keratinous materials such as skin and hair. When present at concentrations above the critical micellar concentration, the majority of surfactant molecules self-assemble into micelles that have a highly negative surface charge, allowing the surfactants to solubilize hydrophobic components in the aqueous phase of the composition, which are then removed from the keratinous material.
[0003] Typically, personal care cleansing compositions use sulfate-based anionic surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) or sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES). These surfactants are commonly used because they have good foaming and cleansing properties, allow the composition to be easily thickened to achieve a desired viscosity, and are relatively inexpensive. However, the market is increasingly concerned about the negative effects of these or other sulfate-based surfactants on the skin and body. For example, sulfate-based surfactants tend to dry out hair and skin, bleach treated hair, and can cause skin and eye irritation. In addition, SLES can contain dioxanes, byproducts generated during the manufacturing process, which are considered carcinogenic at fairly high levels.As such, skin and hair cleansing compositions that are free or essentially free of sulfate-based surfactants are becoming increasingly desirable for consumers.
[0004] However, there are challenges in developing suitable personal care cleansing formulas without sulfate-based surfactants. For example, most existing sulfate-free personal care cleansers do not lather well, which is considered a significant drawback by consumers. Furthermore, Cleaning compositions containing anionic surfactants that are not sulfate-based do not thicken easily. Traditional methods for increasing the viscosity of these formulations are ineffective with sulfate-free surfactants.
[0005] Furthermore, some anionic cleansing surfactants, while effective cleansers, are undesirable for use in personal care compositions because their aggressive nature deprives hair or skin of natural components necessary for healthy functioning, negatively impacting, for example, the integrity of the skin barrier. In addition, some non-sulfate cleansing surfactants are ineffective at depositing conditioning components, such as moisturizing agents, onto treated keratinous materials.
[0006] Thus, it is necessary to develop personal care cleansing compositions that are free or substantially free of sulfate-based surfactants, lather adequately, have a desired viscosity, and offer beneficial properties to keratinous materials. This, however, requires careful balancing of the components to ensure that the properties of the cleansing composition, as well as the properties imparted to keratinous materials, meet consumer needs. Such a balance has been difficult to achieve to date, however, because efforts to obtain certain properties of the cleansing composition, such as lathering or thickness, have interfered with efforts to obtain certain cosmetic properties imparted by the composition, such as moisture or hydration.
[0007] It has now been found that by using a unique combination of surfactants and film-forming agents, personal care cleansing compositions that are free or substantially free of sulfate-based surfactants can be prepared which, amazingly, exhibit abundant, thick, and creamy lather and desirable viscosity, while also providing excellent cosmetic properties for hair such as detangling, ease of application, softness, curl definition, smooth hair texture, shine, sealed ends, a lush hair feel, volume, bounce, manageability, and / or frizz control. SUMMARY
[0008] The disclosure relates to compositions for cleaning keratinous materials and methods for using the compositions. The compositions are free or substantially free of sulfate-based surfactants, yet surprisingly generate abundant lather. Furthermore, the compositions impart surprisingly desirable properties to the hair, such as smooth texture, softness, curl elongation, and frizz control.
[0009] In various embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) a surfactant system including (i) a first anionic surfactant selected from sulfate-derived anionic surfactants, and (ii) at least one second anionic surfactant different from the first anionic surfactant, (b) at least one film-forming agent, and (c) water. The surfactant system optionally further comprises (iii) at least one amphoteric surfactant and / or (iv) at least one nonionic and / or cationic surfactant. The compositions optionally further comprise additional components such as conditioning agents, anti-dandruff agents, thickening agents, and / or auxiliary agents. The compositions are free or substantially free of sulfate-based surfactants.
[0010] In other embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) a surfactant system including (i) a first anionic surfactant selected from sulfate-derived anionic surfactants, (ii) at least one second anionic surfactant different from the first anionic surfactant, (iii) optionally at least one amphoteric surfactant, and (iv) optionally at least one nonionic surfactant, (b) at least one film-forming agent, (c) water, and (d) optionally at least one additional component selected from conditioning agents, anti-dandruff agents, thickening agents, and / or auxiliary agents. The compositions are free or substantially free of sulfate-based surfactants and may be free or substantially free of cocamidopropyl betaine.In various embodiments, the first anionic surfactant is selected from alkyl sulfonates, sulfosuccinates, sulfoacetates, or their salts, for example, olefin sulfonates such as C10-C24 olefin sulfonates and / or their salts. In various embodiments, at least a second anionic surfactant is selected from alkyl sulfonates, sulfosuccinates, isethionates, sulfoacetates, alkoxylated monoacids, acyl taurates, acyl glycinates, acyl glutamates, acyl sarcosinates, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these, for example, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, alkoxylated monoacids, and / or their salts. In various embodiments, the total amount of anionic surfactants ranges from about 0.5% to about 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.In various embodiments, the film-forming agent is selected from plant-based film-forming agents, for example, polysaccharide film-forming agents. For example, the film-forming agent may be selected from modified or unmodified starches. In various embodiments, the composition comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from betaines, alkyl sultaines, alkyl amphoathetas, amphopropionates, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In various embodiments, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants ranges from approximately 0.5% to approximately 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the [unspecified ingredient]. the composition. In some embodiments where the composition comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants, the compositions have a weight ratio of the total amount of first and second anionic surfactants to the total amount of amphoteric surfactant(s) that is less than about 10:1, for example, ranging from about 1:1 to about 10:1, such as about 1:1 to about 9:1, about 1:1 to about 8:1, about 1:1 to about 7:1, about 1:1 to about 6:1, about 1:1 to about 5:1, about 1:1 to about 4:1, or about 1:1 to about 3.5:1. In various embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one conditioning agent selected from cationic conditioning agents, silicone compounds, non-silicone fatty compounds, or combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the compositions include at least one thickening agent.
[0011] In still other embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) a surfactant system comprising (i) a first anionic surfactant selected from C10-C24 olefin sulfonates and / or their salts, (ii) at least one second anionic surfactant selected from alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, alkoxylated monoacids, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof, (iii) optionally at least one amphoteric surfactant, and (iv) optionally at least one nonionic surfactant, (b) at least one film-forming agent, optionally selected from film-forming agents of plant origin such as modified or unmodified starches, (c) water, and (d) at least one additional component selected from conditioning agents, anti-dandruff agents, Thickening agents and / or auxiliary agents. For example, the film-forming agent may include modified or unmodified potato starch.The compositions are free or substantially free of sulfate-based surfactants and optionally free or substantially free of cocamidopropyl betaine.
[0012] In other embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) a surfactant system comprising (i) a first anionic surfactant comprising a sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate, (ii) at least one second anionic surfactant selected from disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, or combinations of two or more of these, (iii) optionally at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, cocobetaine, or combinations of two or more of these, and (iv) optionally at least one nonionic surfactant, (b) at least one film-forming agent, (c) water, and (d) at least one additional component selected from conditioning agents, anti-dandruff agents, Thickening agents and / or auxiliary agents. The compositions are free or substantially free of surfactants based on sulfate, and optionally free or essentially free of cocamidopropyl betaine.
[0013] The disclosure further relates to methods of using the compositions, the methods including applying the compositions to keratinous materials and rinsing the keratinous materials. For example, the compositions may be shampoo compositions and the methods may be hair cleansing methods and / or methods imparting one or more properties such as ease of detangling, smooth texture, softness, shine and / or frizz reduction to the hair. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES
[0014] [Fig.1] The [Fig.1] is an image of hair treated with a routine using compositions according to the disclosure on the right, and treated with a routine using a comparative composition on the left.
[0015] [Fig.2] The [Fig.2] shows the results of a study comparing various properties of hair treated with a routine using compositions according to the disclosure and treated with a routine using a comparative composition, and comparing various properties of the compositions.
[0016] [Fig.3] The [Fig.3] shows images of hair strands cleaned with shampoo compositions according to the disclosure. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0017] The disclosure relates to compositions for cleaning keratinous materials, and processes for cleaning keratinous materials with these compositions. The compositions are free or substantially free of sulfate-based surfactants, but surprisingly exhibit good foaming properties and provide desirable cosmetic benefits to keratinous materials. COMPOSITIONS
[0018] The compositions according to the disclosure include (a) a surfactant system comprising (i) a first anionic surfactant, (ii) at least one second anionic surfactant different from the first anionic surfactant, and (iii) optionally at least one amphoteric surfactant, (b) at least one film-forming agent, and (c) water. The surfactant system may optionally further comprise one or more nonionic and / or cationic surfactants, and the compositions may optionally comprise additional components such as revitalizing agents, thickening agents, active agents, emulsifiers, and auxiliary components. The compositions are free or substantially free of sulfate-based surfactants. Surfactant system
[0019] The compositions according to the disclosure include a surfactant system that includes combinations of non-sulfate-based surfactants. The combination of certain types and quantities of surfactants provides surprisingly advantageous properties to the compositions and allows for successful deposition of beneficial components onto keratinous materials, such as the scalp and / or hair fibers. Anionic surfactants
[0020] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise a first anionic surfactant selected from sulfated surfactants, and at least one second anionic surfactant different from the first anionic surfactant. Salts of anionic surfactants are expressly included, whether or not they are mentioned.
[0021] In some embodiments, the second anionic surfactant comprises one or more sulfated surfactants, and in some embodiments, the second anionic surfactant comprises one or more surfactants that are not sulfated. For example, the second anionic surfactant may comprise one or a combination of sulfated anionic surfactants, may comprise a combination of sulfated and non-sulfated anionic surfactants, or may comprise one or a combination of anionic surfactants that are not sulfated. Thus, the use of the expression "a first anionic surfactant chosen from among the sulfo-derived surfactants" should be understood as meaning that the first anionic surfactant may not be the only sulfo-derived surfactant present, for example in the case where one or more of the second anionic surfactant(s) are also sulfo-derived.
[0022] Sulfo-derived surfactants are understood as surfactant compounds containing a sulfonate group. Examples of useful sulfo-derived surfactants include, but are not limited to, sulfosuccinates, sulfoacetates, isethionates, and alkyl sulfonates, which include, for example, alkylaryl sulfonates, arylalkyl sulfonates, alkyl ester sulfonates, and olefin sulfonates. For example, primary alkane disulfonates, alkene sulfonates, hydroxyalkane sulfonates, alkyl glyceryl ether sulfonates, alkylphenol polyglycol ether sulfonates, alkylbenzenesulfonates, phenylalkanesulfonates, alkene sulfonates, hydroxyalkanesulfonates and disulfonates, secondary alkane sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, ester sulfonates, sulfonated fatty acid glycerol esters, and / or alpha-sulfo fatty acid methyl esters including methyl estersulfonate, may be chosen.
[0023] Useful, but not limiting, alkyl sulfonates include those of formula (I):
[0024] (I)
[0025] in which:
[0026] - R is chosen from H or an alkyl chain that has 1 to 24 carbon atoms, of preferably 6 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 20 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, substituted or unsubstituted, and
[0027] - M+ is chosen from any suitable monovalent cation.
[0028] In some embodiments, in formula (I), the useful cations are alkali metal ions, such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions.
[0029] In some cases, the alkyl sulfonate(s) is / are selected from linear or branched C-C30, C2-C28, or C4-C24 alkyl sulfonates, for example, C8-C16 alkylbenzene sulfonates, C10-C20 paraffin sulfonates, C10-C24 olefin sulfonates, their salts, or mixtures thereof. In some preferred embodiments, C10-C24, C12-C20, or C12-C18 olefin sulfonates and / or their salts may be selected. A non-limiting example of a C10-C24 olefin sulfonate that may be used is sodium C14-C16 olefin sulfonate.
[0030] Alkyl sulfosuccinates can, for example, be selected from C2-C30, such as C4-C30, C6-C30, or C8-C30, linear or branched alkyl sulfosuccinates. Non-limiting examples of useful alkyl sulfosuccinates and their salts include those of formula (II): SO'M" O O
[0031] (II)
[0032] in which:
[0033] - R is a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 10 to 22 atoms of carbon, preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms;
[0034] - x is a number that represents the average degree of ethoxylation, and can range from 0 to about 5, preferably from 0 to about 4, and most preferably from about 2 to about 3.5; and
[0035] - M, which may be identical or different, is chosen from any cation suitable monovalent.
[0036] In some embodiments, in formula (II), the useful cations are alkali metal ions, such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions.
[0037] Non-limiting examples of alkyl sulfosuccinate salts include oleamido MIPA disodium sulfosuccinate, oleamido MEA disodium sulfosuccinate, lauryl sulfosuccinate disodium, laureth sulfosuccinate disodium, diammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, diammonium laureth sulfosuccinate, sodium dioctyl sulfosuccinate, oleamide MEA disodium sulfosuccinate, sodium dialkyl sulfosuccinate, or mixtures thereof.
[0038] Alkyl sulfoacetates can, for example, be selected from C2-C30 alkyl sulfoacetates, such as C4-C30, C6-C30, or C8-C30 alkyl sulfoacetates, linear or branched. Non-limiting examples of alkyl sulfoacetates and their salts include C4-C18 fatty alcohol sulfoacetates and / or their salts. In some embodiments, a sulfoacetate salt is sodium lauryl sulfoacetate. Useful cations for the salts include alkali metal ions, such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions.
[0039] Non-limiting examples of useful acyl isethionates and their salts include those of formula (III):
[0040] RCOOCHR'CHR2X M+ (III)
[0041] in which:
[0042] - R, R1, and R2 are each independently chosen from H or an alkyl chain having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched;
[0043] - X is SO3; and
[0044] - M is any suitable cation.
[0045] Although the cation in formula (III) can be chosen from any suitable cation, including, for example, alkali metal ions such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions, sodium is a preferred cation.
[0046] In various embodiments, RCO- represents the acidic fraction of coconut. Non-limiting examples of acyl isethionates include sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, and sodium cocoyl methyl isethionate.
[0047] Other useful non-sulfate anionic surfactants include, for example, alkoxylated monoacids and acyl amino acids such as acyl taurates, acyl glycinates, acyl glutamates, acyl sarcosinates, and their salts and mixtures.
[0048] Non-limiting examples of alkoxylated monoacids include compounds corresponding to formula (IV):
[0049] RO[CH2O]u[(CH2)xCH(R')(CH2)y(CH2)zO]v[CH2CH2O]wCH2COOH(IV)
[0050] in which:
[0051] - R is a hydrocarbon radical containing from approximately 6 to approximately 40 atoms of carbon;
[0052] - R' represents hydrogen or alkyl;
[0053] - u, v and w, which may be identical or different, represent independently numbers from 0 to 60;
[0054] - x, y and z, which may be identical or different, represent independently numbers from 0 to 13; and
[0055] the sum of x + y + z > 0.
[0056] The compounds corresponding to formula (IV) can be obtained by alkoxylation of R-OH alcohols with ethylene oxide as the sole alkoxide, or with several alkoxides and subsequent oxidation. The numbers u, v, and w each represent the degree of alkoxylation. While at the molecular level, the numbers u, v, and w and the total degree of alkoxylation can only be integers, including zero, at the macroscopic level, they are average values in the form of fractional numbers.
[0057] In formula (IV), R is linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted or unsubstituted. For example, R may be a linear or branched C6-C40 alkyl or alkenyl group, or a C1-C40 alkyl phenyl group, more typically a C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl group, or a C4-C18 alkyl phenyl group, and even more typically a C12-C18 alkyl or alkenyl group or a C6-C16 alkyl phenyl group. Furthermore, u, v, w, independently of each other, can be chosen from a number from 2 to 20, such as a number from 3 to 17, or a number from 5 to 15. In addition, x, y, z, independently of each other, can be chosen from a number from 0 to 13, such as a number from 1 to 10, or a number from 2 to 8.
[0058] Suitable alkoxylated monoacids include, but are not limited to: 5-butoxynol-carboxylic acid, 19-butoxynol-carboxylic acid, capryleth-4 acid carboxylic acid, capryleth-6 carboxylic acid, capryleth-9 carboxylic acid, ceteareth-25 carboxylic acid, coceth-7 carboxylic acid, pareth-6 carboxylic acid C9-11, pareth-7 carboxylic acid Cl 1-15, pareth-5 carboxylic acid C12-13, pareth-8 carboxylic acid C12-13, pareth-12 carboxylic acid C12-13, pareth-7 carboxylic acid C12-15, pareth-8 carboxylic acid C12-15, pareth-8 carboxylic acid C14-15, deceth-7 carboxylic acid, laureth-3 carboxylic acid, laureth-4 carboxylic acid, laureth-5 carboxylic acid, laureth-6 carboxylic acid, laureth-8 carboxylic acid, laureth-10 carboxylic acid, laureth-11 carboxylic acid, laureth-12 carboxylic acid, laureth-13 carboxylic acid, laureth-14 carboxylic acid, laureth-17 carboxylic acid, PPG-6-laureth-6 carboxylic acid, PPG-8-steareth-7 carboxylic acid, myreth-3 carboxylic acid, myreth-5 carboxylic acid, nonoxynol-5 carboxylic acid, nonoxynol-8 carboxylic acid,nonoxynol-10 carboxylic acid, octeth-3 carboxylic acid, octoxynol-20 carboxylic acid, oleth-3 carboxylic acid, oleth-6 carboxylic acid, oleth-10 carboxylic acid, PPG-5-ceteth-20, PPG-3-deceth-2 carboxylic acid, capryleth-2 carboxylic acid, ceteth-13 carboxylic acid, deceth-2 carboxylic acid, hexeth-4 carboxylic acid, isosteareth-6 carboxylic acid, isosteareth-11 carboxylic acid, trideceth-3 carboxylic acid, trideceth-6 carboxylic acid, trideceth-8 carboxylic acid, tridecetheth-12 carboxylic acid, tridecetheth-3 carboxylic acid, tridecetheth-4 carboxylic acid, tridecetheth-7 carboxylic acid, tridecetheth-15 carboxylic acid, tridecetheth-19 carboxylic acid, undeceth-5 carboxylic acid, or mixtures thereof. In some cases, preferred ethoxylated acids include oleth-10 carboxylic acid, laureth-5 carboxylic acid, laureth-11 carboxylic acid, or mixtures thereof.
[0059] The amino acid acyl acids that can be used include, but are not limited to, amino acid surfactants based on alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine, threonine, and taurine. The most common cation associated with the amino acid can be sodium or potassium. Alternatively, the cation can be an organic salt, such as triethanolamine (TEA), or a metal salt.
[0060] Non-limiting examples of acyl amino acids include those of formula (V): O R_? Rj R ।--C—N—CH--(CH2)h — X'
[0061] (V)
[0062] in which:
[0063] - R1, R2 and R3 are each independently chosen from H or an alkyl chain having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, substituted or unsubstituted;
[0064] - n ranges from 0 to 30; and
[0065] - X is COO or SO3.
[0066] Non-limiting examples of acyl taurates include those of formula (VI):
[0067] RCO-NR1CHR2CHR3SO3Na (VI)
[0068] wherein R, R1, R2 and R3 are each independently selected from H or an alkyl chain having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, such as from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, or from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, substituted or unsubstituted.
[0069] In various embodiments, RCO- represents the acidic fraction of coconut. Non-limiting examples of acyl taurate salts include sodium cocoyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate.
[0070] Non-limiting examples of useful acyl glycinates include those of formula (VII): O x+ RC—NHCH2COONa
[0071] (VII)
[0072] in which:
[0073] - R is an alkyl chain of 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and
[0074] - X+ is chosen from any suitable monovalent cation.
[0075] In some embodiments, in formula (VII), the useful cations are alkali metal ions, such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions.
[0076] Non-limiting examples of acyl glycinates include sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate and potassium cocoyl glycinate.
[0077] Non-limiting examples of useful acyl glutamates include those of formula (VIII): O X+ RÇ—NM HOOCCH2CH2CHCOONa
[0078] (VIII)
[0079] in which:
[0080] - R is an alkyl chain of 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and
[0081] - X+ is chosen from any suitable monovalent cation.
[0082] In some embodiments, in formula (VIII), the useful cations are alkali metal ions, such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions.
[0083] Non-limiting examples of acyl glutamates include dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, and stearoyl glutamate. sodium, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate, triethanolamine mono-cocoyl glutamate, triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate, and disodium cocoyl glutamate.
[0084] Non-limiting examples of acyl sarcosinates and their salts include potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate and ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate.
[0085] In various embodiments, the first anionic surfactant selected from among the sulfonated surfactants is chosen from among the olefin sulfonates and / or their salts. In a preferred embodiment, the first anionic surfactant is chosen from among the C10-C24, C12-C20 or C12-C18 olefin sulfonates and / or their salts, for example sodium Cl4-16 olefin sulfonate.
[0086] In various embodiments, the second anionic surfactant comprises at least one sulfo-derived surfactant, for example, selected from alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, their salts, or mixtures thereof. In other embodiments, the second anionic surfactant comprises at least one surfactant selected from acyl taurates, acyl glycinates, acyl glutamates, acyl sarcosinates, their salts, or mixtures thereof, in particular acyl sarcosinates. In still other embodiments, the second anionic surfactant comprises at least one sulfo-derived surfactant selected from alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, their salts, or mixtures thereof, and at least one surfactant selected from acyl taurates, acyl glycinates, acyl glutamates, acyl sarcosinates, their salts, or mixtures thereof.
[0087] By way of example and non-limiting embodiment, a surfactant system may comprise a first anionic surfactant selected from C10-C24, C12-C20, or C12-C18 olefin sulfonates and / or their salts, for example, sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate, and at least a second anionic surfactant selected from sulfonated surfactants such as alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, their salts, or mixtures thereof. For example, the surfactant system may comprise (i) sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate, and (ii) at least a second anionic surfactant selected from sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and / or disodium laureth sulfosuccinate.
[0088] By way of another non-limiting embodiment, a surfactant system may comprise a first anionic surfactant selected from C10-C24, C12-C20, or C12-C18 olefin sulfonates and / or their salts, for example, sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate, and at least two second anionic surfactants selected from alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, their salts, or mixtures thereof. For example, the surfactant system may comprise (i) sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate, and (ii) sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and disodium laureth sulfosuccinate.
[0089] By way of yet another example of a non-limiting exemplary embodiment, a surfactant system may comprise a first anionic surfactant selected from C10-C24, C12-C20, or C12-C18 olefin sulfonates and / or their salts, for example, sodium Cl4-16 olefin sulfonate, and at least one second anionic surfactant selected from acyl taurates, acyl glycinates, acyl glutamates, acyl sarcosinates, their salts, or mixtures thereof, in particular acyl sarcosinates. For example, the surfactant system may comprise (i) sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate and (ii) sodium lauroyl sarcosinate.
[0090] The total amount of anionic surfactants may vary. For example, the total amount of anionic surfactants may range from about 1% to about 20%, as well as from about 1.5% to about 18%, from about 2% to about 15%, from about 2.5% to about 12%, or from about 3% to about 10% by weight, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the total amount of anionic surfactants can range from approximately 1% to approximately 20%, from approximately 1% to approximately 18%, from approximately 1% to approximately 15%, from approximately 1% to approximately 12%, from approximately 1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1% to approximately 9%, from approximately 1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2% to approximately 20%, from approximately 2% to approximately 18%, from approximately 2% to approximately 15%, from approximately 2% to approximately 12%, from approximately 2% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2% to approximately 8%, from approximately 3% to approximately 20%, from approximately 3% to approximately 18%, from approximately 3% to approximately 15%, from approximately 3% to approximately 12%, from approximately 3% to approximately 10%, from approximately 3% to approximately 9%, from approximately 3% to approximately 8%, from approximately 4% to approximately 20%, from approximately 4% to approximately 18%, from approximately 4% to approximately 15%, from approximately 4% to approximately 12%, from approximately 4% to approximately 10%, from approximately 4% to approximately 9%, from approximately 4% to approximately 8%, from approximately 5% to approximately 20%, from approximately 5% to approximately 18%, from approximately 5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 6% to approximately 20%, from approximately 6% to approximately 18%, from approximately 6% to approximately 15%, from approximately 6% to approximately 12%, from approximately 6% to approximately 10%, from approximately 6% to approximately 9%, from approximately 6% to approximately 8%, from approximately 7% to approximately 20%, from approximately 7% to approximately 18%, from approximately 7% to approximately 15%, from approximately 7% to approximately 12%, from approximately 7% to approximately 10%, from approximately 7% to approximately 9%or approximately 7% to approximately 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0091] The total amount of first and second anionic surfactants can also vary. For example, the total amount of first and / or second anionic surfactants can independently range from about 0.5% to about 15%, as from about 0.75% to about 12%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1.5% to about 8%, or from about 2% to about 7% by weight, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the total quantity of first and / or second anionic surfactants can independently range from approximately 1% to approximately 12%, from approximately 1% to approximately 11%, from approximately 1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1% to approximately 9%, from approximately 1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1% to approximately 3%, from approximately 2% to approximately 12%, from approximately 2% to approximately 11%, from approximately 2% to approximately 10%,from about 2% to about 9%, from about 2% to about 8%, from about 2% to about 7%, from about 2% to about 6%, from about 2% to about 5%, from about 2% to about 4%, from about 2% to about 3%, from about 3% to about 12%, from about 3% to about 11%, from about 3% to about 10%, from about 3% to about 9%, from about 3% to about 8%, from about 3% to about 7%, from about 3% to about 6%, from about 3% to about 5%, from about 3% to about 4%, from about 4% to about 12%, from about 4% to about 11%, from about 4% to about 10%, from about 4% to about 9%, from about 4% to about 8%, from about 4% to approximately 7%, from approximately 4% to approximately 6%, or from approximately 4% to approximately 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amphoteric surfactants
[0092] The compositions according to the disclosure optionally include at least one amphoteric surfactant. It should be understood that salts of amphoteric surfactants are expressly included, whether or not they are specified.
[0093] Non-limiting examples of amphoteric surfactants that may be used include betaines, alkyl sultaines, alkyl amphoacetates, amphopropionates, or mixtures thereof.
[0094] In various embodiments, by way of non-limiting examples of betaines or their salts, at least one amphoteric surfactant may comprise alkyl betaines, amido betaines, or mixtures thereof. In various embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one compound selected from (C8-C20) alkyl betaines, sulfobétaines, (C8-C20) alkylamido (C6-C8) alkyl betaines, (C8-C20) alkylamido (C6-C8) alkylsulfobetaines, their salts, or mixtures thereof.
[0095] In certain embodiments, exemplary useful betaines include, but are not limited to, those of the following formulas (IX)-(XII): , x
[0096] (IX)
[0097] (X) v
[0098] (XI)
[0099] (XII)
[0100] in which:
[0101] - Rio is an alkyl group having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
[0102] - n is an integer from 1 to 3; and
[0103] - X+ is a cationic counterion.
[0104] Useful betaines include, for example, coco betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, cetyl betaine, lauryl betaine, laurylhydroxy sulfobetaine, lauryldimethyl betaine, Behenyl betaine, capryl / capramidopropyl betaine, stearyl betaine, their salts or mixtures thereof. Coco betaine is particularly preferred. However, in some embodiments, the composition is free or substantially free of cocamidopropyl betaine.
[0105] Non-limiting examples of useful alkyl sultaines include linear or branched C4-C28, C8-C20, or C8-C18 alkyl sultaines. For example, alkyl sultaines may be selected from those conforming to the following formula (XIII): O CH, IJ ...... ......... CH3 OH
[0106] (XIII)
[0107] in which R is an alkyl group having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0108] Examples of alkyl sultaines that may be chosen include cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine and lauryl hydroxysultaine.
[0109] Non-limiting examples of useful alkyl amphoathetas include linear or branched C4-C28, C8-C20, or C8-C18 alkyl amphoathetas. Useful alkyl amphoathetas include, for example, those having formula (XIV): ill^ R' NH -- O Na
[0110] (XIV)
[0111] in which R is an alkyl group having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0112] Non-limiting examples of alkyl amphoathetastes include sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium caproamphoacetate and sodium capryloamphoacetate.
[0113] Non-limiting examples of useful alkyl amphodiacetates include linear or branched C4-C28, C8-C20, or C8-C18 alkyl amphodiacetates. Useful alkyl amphodiacetates include, for example, those having the formula (XV): "IM R" R' --- -" O Na
[0114] (XV)
[0115] in which R is an alkyl group having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0116] Non-limiting examples of useful alkyl amphodiacetates include disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caproamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
[0117] The amphoteric surfactants of this disclosure may be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, wherein the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
[0118] Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that can be used, the products of the respective structures (Al) and (A2) below may also be mentioned:
[0119] Ra-CON(Z)CH2-(CH2)m-N+(Rb)(Rc)(CH2COO-) (Al)
[0120] in which:
[0121] - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C1O-C30 derived from an acid Ra- COOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl group, a nonyl group, or an undecyl group,
[0122] - Rb represents a [3-hydroxyethyl;
[0123] - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;
[0124] - m is equal to 0, 1 or 2, and
[0125] - Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl group or carboxymethyl;
[0126] Ra'-CON(Z)CH2-(CH2)m'-N(B)(B') (A2)
[0127] in which:
[0128] - B represents -CH2CH2OX', with X' representing -CH2-COOH, CH2-COOZ', CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom,
[0129] - B' represents -(CH2)z-Y', z = 1 or 2, and Y' represents COOH, COOZ', CH2-CHOH- SO3H or -CH2-CHOH-SO3Z',
[0130] - is equal to 0, 1 or 2,
[0131] - Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl group or carboxymethyl,
[0132] - Z' represents an ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as the sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, the diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, and
[0133] - Ra' represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in the C1O-C3O position of an acid Ra'COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or coconut oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.
[0134] Amphoteric surfactants given by way of example include sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium caproamphoacetate, and sodium capryloamphoacetate. Other examples of amphoteric surfactants include disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caproamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
[0135] Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include cocoamphodiacetate sold by Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate, sodium cocoamphoacetate sold under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32 or the product sold by Chimex under the trade name CHIMEXANE HA.
[0136] Compounds of formula (XVI) can also be used:
[0137] Ra”-NH-CH(Y”)-(CH2)nC(O)-NH-(CH2)n’-N(Rd)(Re) (XVI)
[0138] in which:
[0139] - Ra" represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid
[0140] - Ra"-C(O)OH preferably present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or oil of coconut;
[0141] - Y" represents the group -C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ", -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3H or the group CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z", Z" representing a cationic counter-ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine;
[0142] - Rd and Re represent, independently of each other, an alkyl radical or hydroxyalkyl in Cl- C4; and
[0143] - n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer from 1 to 3.
[0144] In some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from betaines, alkyl sultaines, alkyl amphodiacetates, their salts, or mixtures thereof. By way of non-limiting example, in some embodiments, the compositions comprise one or more amphoteric surfactants selected from cocobetaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, cetyl betaine, lauryl betaine, laurylhydroxysulfobetaine, lauryldimethyl betaine, stearyl betaine, cocoamphodiacetate, behenyl betaine, capryl / capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, cocoamphodiacetate, their salts, or mixtures thereof. However, in some embodiments, the composition is free or substantially free of cocamidopropyl betaine.
[0145] In preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from betaines, alkyl hydroxysultaines, alkyl amphodiacetates, their salts, or combinations thereof. For example, the amphoteric surfactant(s) may be selected from cocobetaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, and / or disodium cocoamphodiacetate.
[0146] If present, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may vary but may, for example, range from about 0.5% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 8%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 6%, and more preferably from about 2% to about 5.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the amphoteric surfactant may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from approximately 0.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 1%, from approximately 1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1% to approximately 3%, from approximately 1% to approximately 2%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 6%,from approximately 1.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 2% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2% to approximately 6%, from approximately 2% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2% to approximately 3%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 3% to approximately 8%, from approximately 3% to approximately 7%, from approximately 3% to approximately 6%, from approximately 3% to approximately 5%, from approximately 3% at approximately 4%, from approximately 4% to approximately 8%, from approximately 4% to approximately 7%, from approximately 4% to approximately 6%, from approximately 4% to approximately 5%, from approximately 5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 5% to approximately 7%, or from approximately 5% to approximately 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. As an example, amphoteric surfactants may be present in a total amount of approximately 2%.of approximately 2.1%, approximately 2.2%, approximately 2.3%, approximately 2.4%, approximately 2.5%, approximately 2.6%, approximately 2.7%, approximately 2.8%, approximately 2.9%, or approximately 3%, including all ranges and subranges using any of the above values as upper and lower limits. As a further example, amphoteric surfactants may be present in a total amount of approximately 5%, of about 5.1%, about 5.2%, about 5.3%, about 5.4%, about 5.5%, about 5.6%, about 5.7%, about 5.8%, about 5.9% or about 6%, including all ranges and subranges using any of the above values as upper and lower bounds.
[0147] It has been discovered that by choosing not only the types and amounts of anionic and amphoteric surfactants, but also the amounts relative to each other, the properties of the compositions described herein are remarkably improved, for example the ability of the compositions to form a foam and / or to deposit beneficial components such as ceramides onto the hair.Therefore, in certain embodiments where the composition includes at least one amphoteric surfactant, it may be particularly advantageous to select amounts of anionic and amphoteric surfactants to obtain a weight ratio of the total amount of anionic surfactants to the total amount of amphoteric surfactants that is less than about 10:1, more particularly less than about 9:1, less than about 8:1, less than about 7:1, less than about 6:1, less than about 5:1, less than about 4:1, less than about 3.5:1, less than about 3:1, less than about 2.5:1, or less than about 2:1.
[0148] For example, in some embodiments, the weight ratio between the total quantity of anionic surfactants and the total quantity of amphoteric surfactants ranges from about 1:1 to about 10:1, such as from about 1:1 to about 9:1, from about 1:1 to about 8:1, from about 1:1 to about 7:1, from about 1:1 to about 6:1, from about 1:1 to about 5:1, from about 1:1 to about 4:1, from about 1:1 to about 3.5:1, from about 1:1 to about 3:1, from about 1:1 to about 2.5:1, from about 1:1 to about 2:1, from about 1.5:1 to about 9:1, from about 1.5:1 to about 8:1, from about 1.5:1 to approximately 7:1, from approximately 1.5:1 to approximately 6:1, from approximately 1.5:1 to approximately 5:1, from approximately 1.5:1 to approximately 4:1, from approximately 1.5:1 to approximately 3.5:1, from approximately 1.5:1 to approximately 3:1, from approximately 1.5:1 to approximately 2.5:1, from approximately 1.5:1 to approximately 2:1, from approximately 2:1 to approximately 9:1, from approximately 2:1 to approximately 8:1, from approximately 2:1 to approximately 7:1, from approximately 2:1 to approximately 6:1, from approximately 2:1 to approximately 5:1, from approximately 2:1 to approximately 4:1,from approximately 2:1 to approximately 3.5:1, from approximately 2:1 to approximately 3:1, from approximately 2:1 to approximately 2.5:1, from approximately 2.5:1 to approximately 9:1, from approximately 2.5:1 to approximately 8:1, from approximately 2.5:1 to approximately 7:1, from approximately 2.5:1 to approximately 6:1, from approximately 2.5:1 to approximately 5:1, from approximately 2.5:1 to approximately 4:1, from approximately 2.5:1 to approximately 3.5:1, from approximately 2.5:1 to approximately 3:1, from approximately 3:1 to approximately 9:1, from approximately 3:1 to approximately 8:1, from approximately 3:1 to approximately 7:1, from approximately 3:1 to approximately 6:1, from approximately 3:1 to approximately 5:1, from approximately 3:1 to approximately 4:1, or from approximately 3:1 to approximately 3.5:1, or from approximately 1.5:1, approximately 1.6:1, approximately 1.7:1, approximately 1.8:1, approximately 1.9:1, approximately 2:1, approximately 2.1:1, approximately 2.2:1, approximately 2.3:1, approximately 2.4:1, approximately 2.5:1, approximately 2.6:1, approximately 2.7:1, approximately 2.8:1, approximately 2.9:1, of approximately 3:1, of approximately 3.1:1, of approximately 3.2:1, of approximately 3.3:1, of approximately 3.4:1, of approximately 3.5:1, of approximately 3.6:1, of approximately 3.7:1, of approximately 3.8:1, of approximately 3.9:1, of approximately 4:1, of approximately 4.1:1, of approximately 4.2:1, of approximately 4.3:1, of approximately 4.4:1, or of approximately 4.5:1, including all ranges and subranges using any of the above values as upper and lower bounds. Non-ionic surfactants
[0149] In various embodiments, the compositions may further comprise at least one nonionic surfactant. However, in some embodiments, the compositions are free or substantially free of nonionic surfactants. Salts of nonionic surfactants are expressly included, whether or not they are mentioned. If present, useful nonionic surfactants may include, for example, alkyl polyglucosides, glycol ethers, amine oxides, or mixtures thereof.
[0150] In some embodiments, the nonionic surfactant may be selected from fatty acid amides, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), optionally alkyl and polyalkyl polyoxyethylenated esters of sorbitan, optionally alkyl and polyalkyl polyoxyethylenated ethers of sorbitan, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, optionally alkyl and polyalkyl polyoxyethylenated esters of glycerol, and optionally alkyl and polyalkyl polyoxyethylenated ethers of glycerol, and mixtures thereof.
[0151] The useful fatty acid amides may be selected from compounds derived from alkanolamine amides and from saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C8-C30 fatty acid amides, the alkanolamines and / or fatty acids optionally being oxyalkylated, more particularly oxyethylated, with 1 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide. Optionally, useful fatty acid amides may be selected from C2-C10 alkanolamines and C14-C30 fatty acid amides, for example C2-C10 alkanolamines and C14-C22 fatty acid amides.
[0152] In some embodiments, the fatty acid amide is coconut fatty acid monoisopropanolamide, such as cocamide MIPA oleic diethanolamide, myristic acid monoethanolamide, soybean fatty acid diethanolamide, stearic acid ethanolamide, oleic acid monoisopropanolamide, and linoleic acid diethanolamide. It may be selected from stearic acid monoethanolamide, behenic acid monoethanolamide, isostearic acid monoisopropanolamide, erucic acid diethanolamide, ricinolic acid monoethanolamide, and rapeseed fatty acid amides containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide. Most preferably, the fatty acid amides include cocamide MIPA.
[0153] Examples of alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide) include those containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, with an ethylene oxide (EO) number of motifs ranging from 2 to 200. Examples include PEG-20 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 laurate, PEG-8 laurate, PEG-40 laurate, PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, PEG-7 cocoate, PEG-9 cocoate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-10 oleate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.
[0154] Useful alkyl and polyalkyl poly(ethylene oxide) ethers include those containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, with an ethylene oxide (EO) number ranging from 3 to 200. Examples include laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-5, laureth-7, laureth-23, ceteth-5, ceteth-7, ceteth-15, ceteth-23, oleth-5, oleth-7, oleth-10, oleth-12, oleth-20, oleth-50, phytosterol 30 EO, steareth-6, steareth-20, steareth-21, steareth-40, steareth-100, beheneth-100, ceteareth-7, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-25, pareth-3, pareth-23, C12-15 pareth-3, C12-13 pareth-4, C12-13 pareth-23, trideceth-3, trideceth-4, trideceth-5, trideceth-6, trideceth-7 and trideceth-10, and their mixtures.
[0155] Non-limiting examples of alkyl and polyalkyl polyoxyethylened sorbitan esters include those with an ethylene oxide (EO) number of motifs from 0 to 100. Examples include sorbitan laurate, sorbitan laurate 4 EO, sorbitan laurate 20 EO (polysorbate 20), sorbitan palmitate 20 EO (polysorbate 40), sorbitan stearate 20 EO (polysorbate 60), sorbitan oleate 20 EO (polysorbate 80) and sorbitan trioleate 20 EO (polysorbate 85).
[0156] Examples of sorbitan polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers include those having an ethylene oxide (EO) motif number from 0 to 100.
[0157] Non-limiting examples of alkyl and polyalkyl sucrose esters that may be cited are Crodesta™ F150, sucrose monolaurate sold under the name Crodesta SL 40, and products sold by Ryoto Sugar Ester, for example sucrose palmitate sold under the reference Ryoto™ Sugar Ester P1670, Ryoto™ Sugar Ester LWA 1695 or Ryoto Sugar™ Ester 01570. Sucrose monooleate, monomyristate and monostearate are also suitable.
[0158] Non-limiting examples of alkyl and polyalkyl (poly)oxyethylenated glycerol esters include those with an ethylene oxide (EO) number of motifs from 0 to 100 and a glycerol number of motifs from 1 to 30. Examples include hexaglyceryl monolaurate, PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate.
[0159] Useful examples of alkyl and polyalkyl (poly)oxyethylened glycerol ethers include those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) motifs ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol motifs ranging from 1 to 30. Examples that can be cited include Nikkol Batyl 100 alcohol and Nikkol Chimyl 100 alcohol.
[0160] When present, the total amount of nonionic surfactants may vary. For example, in various embodiments, the compositions as disclosed may comprise a total amount of nonionic surfactants ranging from about 0.01% to about 5%, from about 0.05% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3% by weight, from about 0.25% to about 2%, or from about 0.5% to about 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In at least some embodiments, the compositions comprise less than about 2%, less than about 1.75%, less than about 1.5%, less than about 1.25%, less than about 1%, or less than about 0.75% of nonionic surfactants. Cationic surfactants
[0161] In at least some embodiments, the compositions may further comprise at least one cationic surfactant. However, in some embodiments, the compositions are free or substantially free of cationic surfactants. Salts of cationic surfactants are expressly included, whether or not they are mentioned. Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include amine-based or quaternary ammonium-based cationic compounds.
[0162] For example, cationic surfactants may be selected from alkylpyridinium salts, imidazoline ammonium salts, diquaterary ammonium salts, and ammonium salts containing at least one ester function. As a further example, cationic surfactants may be selected from quaternary ammonium salts having the following formula (XVII): RI R3 ' ,R2 R4.
[0163] (XVII)
[0164] wherein RI to R4, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl; the aliphatic radicals may optionally include heteroatoms (O, N, S, or halogens) and may optionally be substituted, and X is an anion selected from the group of halide, phosphate, acetate, lactate, C2-C6 alkyl sulfate, and alkyl or alkylarylsulfonate radicals. The aliphatic radicals are selected, for example, from C12-C22 alkyl, alkoxy, C2-C6 polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide, (C12- C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12-C22)alkyl acetate and hydroxyalkyl, containing 1 to 30 carbon atony.
[0165] As a further example, quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (XVIII), may be chosen: (IV) (CrH2KD)zR18 I R15
[0166] (XVIII)
[0167] in which:
[0168] - R15 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl radicals and hydroxyalkyl radicals or C1-C6 dihydroxyalkyl;
[0169] - R16 is chosen from the radical R19-CO—, hydrocarbon-based radicals in C1-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated R20, a hydrogen atom;
[0170] - R18 is chosen from the R21-CO radical, hydrocarbon-based radicals in Cl- C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated R22, a hydrogen atom;
[0171] -R17, R19 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based radicals;
[0172] - r, n and p, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;
[0173] - y is an integer from 1 to 10;
[0174] - x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; and
[0175] - X is a simple or complex anion, organic or mineral;
[0176] subject to the following:
[0177] the sum x+y+z, i.e., from 1 to 15,
[0178] when x equals 0, R16 denotes R20, and
[0179] when z equals 0, RI8 denotes R22.
[0180] In formula (XVIII), the alkyl radicals R15 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R15 designates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, or dihydroxypropyl radical, and more particularly, a methyl or ethyl radical. Advantageously, the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 10. When R16 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R20, it may contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When RI8 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R22, it preferably contains from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R17, R19, and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon radicals, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cl1-C21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals. Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1.Of . Preferably, r, n, and p, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly equal to 2. The X- anion is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide, or iodide) or a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate, more particularly a methyl sulfate. The X- anion may also represent methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid (such as acetate or lactate), or any other anion that is compatible with ammonium containing an ester functional group.
[0181] Surfactants may be, for example, salts (chloride or methyl sulfate) of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethyldimethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl radicals preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are most particularly derived from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.
[0182] Other suitable cationic surfactants are esterquats, which are quaternary ammonium compounds having fatty acid chains containing ester bonds, such as, for example, dibehenoylethyldimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyldimonium chloride, distearoylethyldimonium chloride, disuifoyl PG-dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, or mixtures thereof.
[0183] If present, the compositions comprise cationic surfactants in a total amount ranging from approximately 0.001% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 0.025% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.05% to approximately 1%, or from approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In at least some embodiments, the compositions comprise less than approximately 0.5%, less than approximately 0.25%, less than approximately 0.1%, less than approximately 0.09%, less than approximately 0.08%, or less than approximately 0.07% of cationic surfactants. Film-forming agents
[0184] The compositions according to the disclosure include at least one film-forming agent, also called a film-forming agent. Film-forming agents are preferably natural or of plant origin. Without being intended to be limiting, it is considered that the natural or plant-based film-forming agent works in synergy with the sulfate-free surfactant system to provide enhanced softness, smooth texture, curl elongation, frizz control, and sealed ends, thus offering the styling benefits of a shampoo.
[0185] Non-limiting examples of film-forming agents include plant-based polymers, egg proteins such as egg albumin, natural latexes, polysaccharides and their combinations. For example, useful film-forming agents include protein extracts from cereals, legumes or oilseeds such as corn, rye, wheat, buckwheat, sesame, spelt, pea, broad bean, lentil, soybean, lupin, fructans, fructosans, keratin derivatives such as keratin hydrolysates and sulfonic keratins, and chitin and its derivatives, for example chitosan and its derivatives such as hydroxypropylchitosan, succinyl chitosan derivative, chitosan lactate, chitosan glutamate or carboxymethylchitosan succinimide. In other embodiments, the film-forming agents may be chosen from celluloses or one of their derivatives, such as cellulose ethers or cellulose esters.By way of non-limiting example, methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylpropylcellulose, cellulose acetate, cellulose nitrate, nitrocellulose, or combinations of two or more of these may be chosen. Quaternized polyhydroxyethylcellulose (also known as polyquaternium-10) may also be chosen.
[0186] Optionally, it may be advantageous to choose polysaccharides, which are polymers having monosaccharides or disaccharides as basic units, as a film-forming agent. For example, homopolysaccharides such as fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans, heteropolysaccharides such as hemicellulose, linear polysaccharides such as pullulan or branched polysaccharides such as gum arabic and amylopectin, or mixed polysaccharides such as starches may be chosen.
[0187] In various embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one starch as a film-forming agent. The starches may be modified or unmodified, and the compositions may comprise modified and / or unmodified starches. Non-limiting examples of starches that may be selected include maize starch, rice starch, cassava starch, tapioca starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch, and pea starch. If modified starches are used, the starches may include those modified by any known starch modification process, for example, by pregelatinization, degradation (e.g., acid hydrolysis, oxidation, or dextrinization), substitution (e.g., esterification or etherification), crosslinking (e.g., esterification), or bleaching. Useful modified starches include hydrolyzed maize starch or modified potato starch.
[0188] In some embodiments, the film-forming agent comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of natural or plant-derived film-forming agents. In additional embodiments, the film-forming agent comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of in, or consists of, polysaccharides. In other embodiments, the film-forming agent comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of starches. In still other embodiments, the film-forming agent comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of modified starches.
[0189] The total amount of film-forming agents may vary, but it generally ranges from about 0.001% to about 3%, as from about 0.01% to about 3%, from about 0.05% to about 2.75%, or from about 0.1% to about 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the total quantity of film-forming agents can range from approximately 0.01% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 2.25%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 1.75%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 1.5%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 1.25%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 1%, from approximately 0.05% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 0.05% to approximately 2.25%, from approximately 0.05% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.05% to approximately 1.75%, from approximately 0.05% to approximately 1.5%, from approximately 0.05% to approximately 1.25%, from approximately 0.05% to approximately 1%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 2.25%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 1.75%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 1%,5%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 1.25%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 1%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 2.25%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 1.75%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 1.5%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 1.25%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 1%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2.25%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 1.75%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 1.5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 1.25%, or from approximately 0.5% to approximately 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the compositions comprise film-forming agents in a total amount of approximately 0.5%, approximately 0.6%, approximately 0.7%, approximately 0.8%, approximately 0.9%, approximately 1%, approximately 1.1%, approximately 1.2%, approximately 1.3%, approximately 1.4%, or approximately 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.or within a range using any of the above values as upper and lower limits.
[0190] In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise a total amount of polysaccharide film-forming agents, more preferably starches, for example comprising, consisting essentially of, or consisting of modified and / or unmodified potato starch, in any of the aforementioned amounts or ranges. Anti-dandruff active agents
[0191] Optionally, the compositions include at least one anti-dandruff active agent. Non-limiting examples of anti-dandruff active agents include ellagic acid, ellagic acid ethers, ellagic acid salts, salts ellagic acid ethers, pyrithione salts, l-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives, selenium (poly)sulfides, salicylic acid, pyroctone olamine, tea tree oil, climbazole, fluocinolone, ketoconazole, coal tar, or combinations of two or more of these.
[0192] By way of example, useful ellagic acid ethers may be selected from mono-, di-, tri-, or polyethers obtained by etherification of one or more -OH groups of ellagic acid to give one or more -OR groups, where R is selected from C2-C20 alkyl groups, polyoxyalkylene groups such as polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups, and groups derived from one or more mono- or polysaccharides. In the case of di-, tri-, or polyethers of ellagic acid, the R groups as defined above may be the same or different. For example, ellagic acid ethers such as 3,4-di-O-methyl ellagic acid, 3,3',4-tri-O-methyl ellagic acid, or 3,3'-di-O-methyl ellagic acid may be selected.
[0193] Useful and non-limiting salts of ellagic acid and / or its ethers may be selected from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium, potassium, calcium or magnesium salts, ammonium salt, and amine salts, such as triethanolamine, monoethanolamine, arginine and lysine salts.
[0194] In various embodiments, the pyrithione salts are selected from monovalent or divalent metal salts, such as sodium, calcium, magnesium, barium, strontium, zinc, cadmium, tin, or zirconium salts. In some embodiments, the zinc salt (zinc pyrithione) is particularly useful.
[0195] As non-limiting examples of l-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives, compounds of formula (Z) or their salts may be chosen: ai KJ
[0196] (Z)
[0197] in which:
[0198] - RI is chosen from a hydrogen atom; a linear or branched alkyl group having from 1 to 17 carbon atoms; a cycloalkyl group having from 5 to 8 carbon atoms; a cycloalkyl-alkyl group, the cycloalkyl group having from 5 to 8 carbon atoms and the alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an aryl or aralkyl group, the aryl group having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and the alkyl group having of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an aryl-alkenyl group, the aryl group having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and the alkenyl group having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; the cycloalkyl and aryl groups as defined above being able to be substituted by one or more alkyl groups having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or otherwise one or more alkoxy groups having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
[0199] - R2 is chosen from a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an alkenyl group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms; a halogen atom or a benzyl group;
[0200] - R3 is chosen from a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 atoms of carbon or a phenyl group; and
[0201] - R4 is chosen from a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an alkenyl group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms; a methoxymethyl group; a halogen atom or a benzyl group.
[0202] - By way of example, l-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2(lH)-pyridone or 6-cyclohexyl-l-hydroxy-4-methyl-2(lH)-pyridone can be chosen.
[0203] Useful salts include C1-C4 alkanolamine salts, such as monoethanolamine or diethanolamine, amine or alkylamine salts, and also salts with inorganic cations, such as ammonium salts and alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts. For example, in some embodiments, the monoethanolamine salt of l-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2(lH)-pyridinone (or piroctone), commonly called piroctone olamine, may be chosen.
[0204] Non-limiting examples of (poly)sulfides of selenium include selenium disulfide and selenium polysulfides having the formula SexSy, in which x and y are numbers such that x + y = 8.
[0205] If present, the total amount of anti-dandruff active agents may vary, but it generally ranges from about 0.01% to about 10%, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, for example, from about 0.01% to about 5%, from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 0.01% to about 3%, from about 0.01% to about 2%, from about 0.01% to about 1.5%, from about 0.01% to about 1.25%, from about 0.01% to about 1%, from about 0.01% to about 0.75%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, from about 0.1% to about 1.25%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.1% to about 0.75%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 1.5%, from about 0.5% to about 1.25%, from about 0.5% to about 1%, or from about 0.5% to about 0.75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Revitalization Agents
[0206] It may be advantageous to include one or more revitalizing agents in compositions as disclosed. If present, the revitalizing agents may be selected from, for example, cationic revitalizing agents, silicone compounds, non-silicone fatty compounds, or combinations thereof.
[0207] Cationic revitalizing agents comprise at least one cationic group and / or at least one group that can be ionized into a cationic group. For example, cationic revitalizing agents that can be used may be cationic polymers having at least one amine group selected from primary, secondary, tertiary, and quaternary amine groups, and these groups may either be part of the main chain of the polymer or be carried by a side substituent that is directly attached to the main chain of the polymer. In various embodiments, cationic revitalizing agents may be selected from amidoamines, quaternary monoalkyl amines, quaternary dialkyl amines, polyquatemium compounds, or their salts.
[0208] Examples of amidoamines include, but are not limited to, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, sojaamidopropyl dimethylamine, germamidopropyl dimethylamine (from wheat), tournesolamidopropyl dimethylamine, amandamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocatamidopropyl dimethylamine, babassuamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocomidopropyl dimethylamine, visonamidopropyl dimethylamine, avoineamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesameamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearidoethyldiethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0209] Non-limiting examples of polyquatemium compounds include polyquatemium 5, polyquatemium 6, polyquatemium 7, polyquatemium 10, polyquatemium 11, polyquatemium 15, polyquatemium 16, polyquatemium 22, polyquatemium 28, polyquatemium 39, polyquatemium 44, polyquatemium 46, polyquatemium 47, and mixtures thereof.
[0210] Useful, but not limited to, silicone-based conditioning agents that may be included in compositions according to the disclosure include, but are not limited to, polyorganosiloxanes, polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkarylsiloxanes, polyestersiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. For example, dimethicone, cyclomethicone (cyclopentasiloxane), amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, trimethyl siloxy silicate, polymethylsilsesquioxane, or mixtures thereof may be chosen.
[0211] In some embodiments, however, the compositions according to the disclosure are free or substantially free of silicones. For example, the compositions in some embodiments may include less than about 3%, less than about 2%, less than about 1%, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.25%, less than about 0.1%, less than about 0.05%, or less than about 0.01% silicones.
[0212] Useful, but not limiting, examples of non-silicone fatty compounds include, for example, lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, or combinations thereof. By way of example, non-silicone fatty compounds may be selected from natural oils, such as coconut oil; hydrocarbons, such as mineral oil and hydrogenated polyisobutene; fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol; esters, such as a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate; diesters, such as propylene dipelargonate; and triesters, such as glyceryl trioctanoate.Examples of low viscosity oils include isotridecyl isononanoate, PEG-4 diheptanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl ricinoleate, cetyl stearate, cetyl myristate, coco-dicaprylate / caprate, decyl isostearate, isodecyl oleate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isohexyl neopentanoate, octyl palmitate, dioctyl malate, tridecyl octanoate, myristyle myristate, octododecanol, or combinations of octyldodecanol, acetylated lanolin alcohol, cetyl acetate, of isododecanol, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, or mixtures thereof.Examples of useful high-viscosity oils include castor oil, lanolin and lanolin derivatives, triisocetyl citrate, sorbitan sesquioleate, C10-C18 triglycerides, caprylic / capric triglycerides, coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, glyceryl triacetylhydroxystearate, glyceryl triacetyl ricinoleate, glyceryl trioctanoate, hydrogenated castor oil, linseed oil, mink oil, olive oil, palm oil, illipe butter, rapeseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, tallow, tricaprine, trihydroxystearine, triisostearine, trilaurin, trilinolein, trimyristin, triolein, tripalmitin, tristearin, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, cholesterol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, ceramides, or combinations of two or more of these.
[0213] When present, the total amount of revitalizing agents may vary, but they will typically be present in a total amount ranging from about 0.001% to about 5%, from about 0.005% to about 4%, from about 0.01% to about 3%, of about 0.025% to about 2%, or about 0.05% to about 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Thickening agents / rheology modifiers
[0214] The compositions may optionally include at least one thickening agent (also called rheology or viscosity modifying agents). By way of non-limiting example, polysaccharide-based thickeners that are not film-forming agents may be chosen. Polysaccharide thickeners that may be used include, by way of example only, gums, celluloses, or mixtures thereof.
[0215] Non-limiting examples of gums include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum and biosaccharide gum. Modified gums or gum derivatives may also be used, such as, for example, deacylated gellan gum, welan gum or hydroxypropyl guar gum, such as Jaguar HP 105 sold by Rhodia.
[0216] Non-limiting examples of celluloses include hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, or hydropropylcelluloses, which may or may not contain a fatty chain. A particularly suitable hydroxypropylmethylcellulose is Methocel F4M sold by Dow Chemicals (INCI name: hydroxypropylmethylcellulose).Modified celluloses with groups comprising one or more non-ionic fatty chains that may be used include hydroxyethylcelluloses, for example non-ionic hydroxyethylcelluloses, modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22 alkyl groups, such as the product NATROSOL™ Plus Grade 330 CS (alkyl Cl6), sold by Aqualon, corresponding to the INCI name cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, or the product BERMOCOLL® EHM 100 sold by Berol Nobel, and those modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER ® HM-1500 (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether) sold by Amerchol which corresponds to the INCI name nonoxynyl hydroxyethylcellulose.
[0217] In various embodiments given by way of example, the total amount of one or more thickeners may vary, but generally ranges from about 0.01% to about 5%, including all intermediate sub-ranges, such as from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 0.01% to about 3%, from about 0.01% to about 2%, from about 0.01% to about 1.5%, from about 0.01% to about 1%, from about 0.01% to about 0.5%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, from about 0.1% to about 1.2%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, or from approximately 0.1% to approximately 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In at least some embodiments, the composition comprises a thickener in an amount of less than approximately 1%. Solvents
[0218] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one solvent. The solvent may be selected from water, non-aqueous solvents, or mixtures thereof.
[0219] In some embodiments, the solvent comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of water. The total amount of water in the compositions may vary depending on the type of composition and the desired consistency, viscosity, etc. In various embodiments, water is present in the compositions in an amount ranging from about 60% to about 95%, as well as from about 65% to about 90%, from about 70% to about 85%, or from about 75% to about 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0220] In some embodiments, the composition comprises one or more non-aqueous solvents, for example glycerin, C1.4 alcohols, organic solvents, fatty alcohols, fatty ethers, fatty esters, polyols, glycols, vegetable oils, mineral oils, liposomes, laminar lipid materials, or any mixture thereof.Non-limiting examples of solvents that may be used include alkanediols such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol; glycol ethers such as monomethyl ethylene glycol ether, monoethyl ethylene glycol ether, monobutyl ethylene glycol ether, monomethyl ethylene glycol ether acetate, monomethyl diethylene glycol ether, monoethyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl diethylene glycol ether, . mono-n-butyl ether of ethylene glycol, mono-t-butyl ether of ethylene glycol, mono-t-butyl ether of diethylene glycol, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, monoethyl ether of propylene glycol, mono-t-butyl ether of propylene glycol, mono-n-propyl ether of propylene glycol, mono-isopropyl ether of propylene glycol, monomethyl ether of dipropylene glycol, monoethyl ether of dipropylene glycol, mono-n-propyl ether of dipropylene glycol and mono-isopropyl ether of dipropylene glycol; 2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbitol, sorbitan, acetin, diacetinate, triacetin, sulfolane and any mixture thereof.
[0221] The total amount of solvent can range from approximately 60% to approximately 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. For example, in one embodiment, the total amount of solvent can be from approximately 70% to approximately 95%, from approximately 70% to approximately 90%, from approximately 75% to approximately 85%, or from approximately 75% to approximately 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Auxiliary components
[0222] The compositions according to the disclosure may optionally include any auxiliary component suitable for use in such compositions. Such components may include, but are not limited to, a suspending agent such as carbomer and / or acrylates for suspending an anti-dandruff agent, dyes / pigments, humectants and moisturizing agents, fatty substances, thickeners other than polysaccharide thickeners, fillers, structuring agents, gloss enhancers, antioxidants or reducing agents, penetrants, sequestrants, perfumes, buffers, dispersants, plant extracts, preservatives, opacifiers, sunscreens, vitamins, pH adjusters, and antistatic agents.
[0223] Optional auxiliary components may be present in the composition in a total quantity of up to about 15%, or up to about 10%, up to about 5%, up to about 3%, up to about 2%, or up to about 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, compositions according to certain embodiments may comprise a total quantity of auxiliary components ranging from about 0.001% to about 5%, from about 0.005% to about 4%, from about 0.01% to about 3%, from about 0.05% to about 2.5%, or from about 0.1% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0224] The compositions may have a pH less than or equal to 9, such as from about 3 to about 8, from about 4 to about 7, or from about 5 to about 6.5.
[0225] In various embodiments, the compositions according to this disclosure are stable, meaning that no phase separation or significant change in pH or viscosity is observed when stored at a temperature ranging from about 4°C to about 45°C, such as from about 10°C to about 37°C, or from about 20°C to about 30°C, for at least about 8 weeks.
[0226] In at least some embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure may be gentle, exhibit good foaming properties, good detangling and combing properties, good antistatic properties, and / or good stability. The compositions may impart one or more properties such as softness, smooth texture, conditioning, excellent detangling, anti-frizz, ease of combing, antistatic properties, and / or curl elongation to the hair. PROCESSES
[0227] This disclosure also relates to processes for cleansing and / or revitalizing keratinous materials, in particular hair, skin, and / or scalp, with the compositions disclosed herein. The processes also include imparting one or more of the aforementioned properties to the treated keratinous materials. Without limitation, the processes for cleansing and / or revitalizing keratinous materials according to the disclosure may include applying a sufficient, or effective, amount of a composition disclosed herein to keratinous material, such as hair, skin, or scalp, which may be wet, damp, or dry, optionally allowing the composition to remain on the keratinous material for a desired duration, and optionally rinsing the composition from the keratinous material.The composition can optionally be lathered before application to keratinous materials, for example in the hands, or it can be lathered onto keratinous materials.
[0228] In certain embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure are particularly useful for cleansing and conditioning hair. Furthermore, the compositions offer a variety of desirable cosmetic and styling benefits to hair, for example, smooth texture without heaviness, detangling, and frizz control. Thus, the compositions are useful in hair cleansing processes, as well as in processes for giving hair a smooth texture, detangling, and / or controlling frizz. Accordingly, the disclosure encompasses hair cleansing processes and hair treatment processes using the compositions of this disclosure.
[0229] Such processes typically include applying an effective amount of a composition of the present disclosure to the hair, leaving the composition on the hair for a period of time, and then rinsing the composition out. Hair, then letting the hair air dry or drying it with a hairdryer that blows air through the hair and speeds up the drying process. Usually, the product is simply left on the hair for a sufficient amount of time to incorporate it throughout, for example, by lathering the product with your hands.
[0230] The duration is sufficient for the composition to interact with the hair and any dirt, oil, contamination, etc., that may be present on the hair so that, upon rinsing, the dirt, oil, contamination, etc., can be effectively removed from the hair and the conditioning agents in the composition can interact with the hair to condition it. Thus, the composition can be left on the hair for a drying period of up to approximately 30 minutes, approximately 5 seconds to approximately 15 minutes, approximately 5 seconds to approximately 10 minutes, approximately 5 seconds to approximately 5 minutes, approximately 10 seconds to approximately 5 minutes, or approximately 10 seconds to approximately 3 minutes. Alternatively, the composition can be removed immediately once lathering is complete, for example, without any waiting period. The composition is then rinsed from the hair, and the hair is allowed to dry.
[0231] As is often the case when using shampoo compositions, hair may be wetted or rinsed with water before applying a composition disclosed herein. The fact that hair already contains water may be helpful in creating lather when applying the compositions, as the water interacts with the surfactants.
[0232] After describing in detail the numerous embodiments of the present invention, it will become apparent that modifications and variations are possible without departing from the scope of the disclosure defined in the appended claims. Furthermore, it should be noted that all the examples in this disclosure, while illustrating numerous embodiments of the disclosure, are provided by way of non-limiting examples and should therefore not be considered as limiting the various aspects thus illustrated. It should be understood that all definitions in this document are provided solely for the purposes of this disclosure.
[0233] As used herein, the terms “comprising”, “having” and “including” (or “comprehension”, “having” and “include”) are used in their open, non-limiting sense.
[0234] As used herein, the singular includes the plural unless specifically stated otherwise. The singular forms "a," "an," "the," "the," and "at least one" are understood to encompass both the plural and the singular, unless the context clearly indicates otherwise. The expressions "one or more" and "at least one" are interchangeable and expressly include individual components as well as mixtures / combinations. Similarly, the expression "one of his / her (their) salts" refers also to "its (their) salts". Thus, when the disclosure refers to "at least one element chosen from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, one of their salts or mixtures thereof", it indicates that one or more elements from A, B, C, D and F may be included, that one or more salts from a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included, or that a mixture of any two elements from A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included.
[0235] The expression "and / or" should be understood as including both conjunctive and disjunctive clauses. For example, "water and / or non-aqueous solvents" means "water and non-aqueous solvents" as well as "water or non-aqueous solvents", and expressly covers cases of either.
[0236] As used herein, the expressions "and their mixtures", "and one of their mixtures", "and their combinations", "and one of their combinations", "or their mixtures", "or one of their mixtures", "or their combinations", and "or one of their combinations" are used interchangeably to indicate that the list of components immediately preceding the expression, such as "A, B, C, D, or their mixtures", means that the component(s) may be chosen from A, B, C, D, from A + B, from A + B + C, from A + D, from A + C + D, etc., without limitation as to their variations. Thus, the components may be used individually or in any of their combinations.
[0237] For the purposes of disclosure, it should be noted that, for the sake of conciseness, some of the quantitative expressions given herein are not qualified with the term "approximately". It is understood that, whether the term "approximately" is used explicitly or implicitly, each quantity given herein is intended to refer to the actual value given, and is also intended to refer to the approximation of that value given that would be reasonably deduced by a person skilled in the art, including approximations due to experimental and / or measurement conditions for that value.
[0238] All ranges and quantities stated herein are deemed to include subranges and quantities using any disclosed point as a boundary, and all boundaries are deemed to be included unless expressly stated otherwise. Thus, a range of "1% to 10%, as well as 2% to 8%, as well as 3% to 5%" is deemed to encompass ranges of "1% to 8%", "1% to 5%", "2% to 10%", and so on. All numbers, quantities, ranges, etc., are deemed to be modified by the term "approximately", whether or not expressly stated, unless expressly stated otherwise. Similarly, a given range of "approximately 1% to 10%" is deemed to have its boundaries of both 1% and 10% modified by the term "approximately". The term "approximately" is used here to indicate a difference of up to + / - 10% from the stated number, such as + / - 9%, + / - 8%, + / - 7%, + / - 6%, + / - 5%, + / - 4%, + / - 3%, + / - 2%, or + / - 1%. Unless expressly stated otherwise, "approximately" means + / - 5%. Similarly, all range boundaries are understood to be disclosed individually, such that, for example, a range of 1:2 to 2:1 is understood to disclose a ratio of both 1:2 and 2:1.
[0239] All quantities and ratios herein are given by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise stated. Unless otherwise stated, all percentages stated herein are by weight of active ingredient.
[0240] As used herein, the term “salts” throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not exhaustive. Salts also include a dissociated form of a compound, for example, in an aqueous solution.
[0241] As used herein, the terms "apply a composition to keratinous materials" and "apply a composition to hair" and variations thereof are intended to refer to bringing keratinous material or hair into contact with at least one of the compositions of the disclosure, in any manner whatsoever.
[0242] “Cosmetically acceptable” means compatible with keratinous material. For example, a "cosmetically acceptable vector" refers to a vector that is compatible with all keratinous tissue.
[0243] The "keratinous material" as used herein includes skin and hair, such as hair on the human head, or hair including eyelashes or body hair.
[0244] As used herein, the term “revitalization” means the process of imparting to keratinous materials at least one property selected from combability, moisture retention, luster, shine, and softness. The state of revitalization may be assessed by any means known in the art, such as, for example, measuring and comparing the combability of treated and untreated hair in terms of combing effort and consumer perception.
[0245] In this disclosure, a reference to a "shampoo" composition means a composition intended to cleanse keratinous fibers. Although shampoo compositions may also cleanse skin such as the scalp, those skilled in the art understand that the primary purpose of a shampoo composition is to cleanse keratinous fibers such as hair growing from the scalp.
[0246] As used herein, the term "treat" (and its grammatical variations) refers to the application of the compositions of this disclosure to the surface of keratinous materials, such as hair.
[0247] Here, the term "plant" is intended to designate plant origin, for example derived from or obtained from a plant, and optionally modified and / or processed subsequently.
[0248] Unless otherwise defined for any specific embodiment, the expression "substantially free" or "essentially free," which is used interchangeably herein, means that there is less than about 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, compositions may include less than about 1.5%, less than about 1%, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.1%, less than about 0.01%, less than about 0.001%, or less than about 0.0001% of the specified material.As such, it is envisaged that any component described herein for use in compositions may be present in the compositions in quantities less than approximately 2%, less than approximately 1.5%, less than approximately 1%, less than approximately 0.5%, less than approximately 0.1%, less than approximately 0.01%, less than approximately 0.001%, or less than approximately 0.0001%, and the composition shall be considered "substantially free" or "essentially free" of such material. A composition that is "free" of a component is understood to be one that contains no quantity of the specified component. However, it is understood that the terms "free" and "substantially free" refer to the quantity of a component added to the composition, without including a quantity of the component present in the composition as a minor component in a raw material.For example, a "wax-free" composition may not have wax included as an intended component, but may nevertheless contain a pigment that is coated with a wax, since such a wax would be considered a minor component of the pigment material and would not be expected to provide benefits to the composition that would be expected from including a wax itself as an intended component.
[0249] As used herein, the terms "sulfate-based surfactant" and "sulfate-containing surfactant" refer to surfactant compounds that include a sulfate group in their structure.
[0250] “Substituted”, as used here, means comprising at least one substitute. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygen and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen-containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulfonate groups, thiosulfate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may, in addition, be substituted.
[0251] Unless expressly stated otherwise, no process presented herein is intended to be interpreted as requiring that its steps be performed in a specific order. Accordingly, where a process does not expressly state that a specific order of steps must be followed or is not specifically stated that the steps must be limited to a specific order, no particular order is to be inferred from it.
[0252] It should also be understood that the precise numerical values used in the specification and claims constitute additional embodiments of the disclosure and are intended to include any range that can be reduced to any two bounds disclosed in the ranges and values given by way of example, as well as the specific bounds themselves.
[0253] Although the numerical ranges and parameters presenting the general scope of the disclosure are approximations, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values presented in the specific examples are reported as accurately as possible. However, every numerical value inherently contains some errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation observed in their respective test measurements. The following examples serve to illustrate ways in which the disclosure can be implemented but are not intended to be exhaustive. Examples
[0254] The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and explanatory only. In the examples, quantities are expressed as a percentage by weight (% by weight) of active substances, relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1 - Compositions
[0255] Shampoo compositions 1A-1D according to the disclosure and comparative shampoo composition Cl were prepared as indicated in Table IA, and conditioner composition CND was prepared as indicated in Table IB. Table IC lists the ingredients of the commercially available shampoo and conditioner compositions, as listed on the packaging.
[0256] [Table 1]
[0257] TABLE IA - Shampoo compositions IA IB IC 1D Cl CERAMIDES, CHOLESTEROL AND PHYTOSPHINGOSIN E 0.0065 0.0065 0.0065 0.0065 0.0065 CATIONIC SURFACTANT E 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 FILM-FORMING AGENT 0.73 0.85 1.00 1.85 SODIUM LAURYL SULFOACETATE 1.05 1.05 1.05 1.05 1.05 DISODIUM LAURETH SULFOSUCCINATE 2.7 2.7 2.7 2.7 2.7 COCAMIDE MIPA 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 COCOBETAINE 0.27 0.27 0.27 0.27 0.27 C14-16 SODIUM OLEFIN SULFONA 4.56 4.56 4.56 4.56 4.56 AMODIMETHICONE 1.14 1.14 1.14 1.14 1.14 POLYQUATERNIUM-10 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 DISODIUM COCOAMPHRODIATE ACETATE 2.52 2.52 2.52 2.52 2.52 TRIDECETH-6 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 CARBOMER 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 PPG-5-CETETH-20 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 GLYCOL DISTEARATE 1.35 1.35 1.35 1.35 1.35 ADDITIVES* <3 <3 <3 <3 <3 Solvents (water and non-aqueous solvents) QS for 100 QS for 100 QS for 100 QS for 100 QS for 100
[0258] * preservatives, thickeners, vitamins, pH adjusters, stabilizers, agents of consistency, electrolytes, antioxidants, emulsifiers
[0259] [Table 2]
[0260] TABLE IB - Composition of the conditioner CND Cetrimonium Chloride 0.02 PEG-180 2.0 Behentrimonium Chloride 4.0 Trideceth-6 0.09 BEHENTRIMONIUM METHOSULFATE 0.06 SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.01 THICKENING AGENTS 0.20 REVITALIZING COMPOUNDS (amodimethicone, cetyl esters, ceramides, phytosphingosine, cholesterol, isopropyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol) 8.1 ADDITIVES (preservatives, vitamins, pH adjusters, stabilizers, antioxidants, chelators, polymers) < 1 SOLVENT (water and non-aqueous solvents) QS per 100
[0261] [Table 3]
[0262] TABLE IC - Commercial shampoo and conditioner products PRODUCT Ingredients listed on the packaging Comparative Shampoo No. 2 C2-S Water (Aqua), C14-16 sodium olefin sulfonate, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, sodium cocoyl isethionate, PPG-2 hydroxyethyl coco / isostearamide, Argania Spinosa (argan) kernel oil, panthenol, dimethicone, amodimethicone, glycol stearate, PEG-120 methylglucose dioleate, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, polyquatemium-6, polyquatemium-10, laureth-4, laureth-23, cocamidopropyl betaine, cetrimonium chloride, trideceth-12, citric acid, parfum, tetrasodium EDTA, sodium chloride, diazolidinyl urea, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, Yellow 5 (CI 19140), Red 40 (CI 16035) Comparative Conditioner C2-C Water (Aqua), Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Glycerin, Stearate-20, PP G-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, Argan Kernel Oil, Amodimethicone, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-37, PPG-1 Tridecet H-6, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate,isoprophyll alcohol, disodium EDTA, sodium hydroxide, citric acid, sodium benzoate, parfum (Parfum), Yellow 5 (CI 19140), Red 40 (CI 16035) ,
[0263] Example 2 - Comparison of the properties of shampoo compositions and hair
[0264] In order to evaluate the properties of shampoo compositions and hair treated with shampoo compositions according to the disclosure having an agent film-forming (modified potato starch) compared to other sulfate-free shampoo compositions, cleansing and conditioning routines using the shampoo composition IA from Table IA and the conditioner composition CND from Table IB were tested in comparison to routines using commercially available shampoo and conditioner compositions, with the ingredients listed on the packaging indicated in Table IC.
[0265] Example 2-1- Properties of curly hair treated with sulfate-free shampoo compositions
[0266] The IA shampoo composition was applied to one half of a volunteer's curly hair by an expert. The shampoo was thoroughly massaged into the hair for 15 seconds, the hair was rinsed for 15 seconds, and then the CND conditioner composition was applied to the same half of the hair and left on for three minutes before being rinsed thoroughly. The same quantities of the commercially available, sulfate-free C2-S comparative shampoo composition and C2-C conditioner composition were applied to the opposite side of the hair following the same procedure. The hair was then combed, blow-dried, and styled. After the treatment was completed, the hair was evaluated by the expert.
[0267] Fig. 1 shows an image of the hair after the treatment. The left side of the image is the half treated with the comparator products (C2-S + C2-C) and the right side of the image is the half treated with the shampoo according to the disclosure (IA + CND). The expert noted that the curl definition provided by both treatments was approximately the same, but observed less frizz and volume, better sealed ends, and a smoother texture in the hair treated with the shampoo according to the disclosure.
[0268] Example 2-2 - Properties of treated hair and shampoo compositions
[0269] In a hair salon, the styling specialists followed the same protocol than that described in example 2-1. Hairstyling specialists evaluated the properties of the hair and shampoo compositions during the routine, and also evaluated the hair properties after the treatment was completed. The results are shown in [Fig. 2].
[0270] As shown in [Fig. 2], all styling specialists found that the properties imparted to hair treated with compositions IA and CND were as good as or better than those of hair treated with the comparative shampoo composition C2-S and the conditioner composition C2-C. Furthermore, composition IA was as good as the comparative composition C2-S in terms of lathering ability, rinsing ease, and detangling ease.
[0271] The results of Example 2 therefore demonstrate that the shampoo compositions according to the disclosure reveal excellent foam formation benefits despite the absence of sulfate-based surfactants, while providing improved properties to the hair compared to shampoo compositions not containing a film-forming agent. Example 3 - Further studies
[0272] To evaluate the impact that the quantity of film-forming agents has on the shampoo compositions according to the disclosure, the following studies were carried out using compositions 1B-1D having a film-forming agent (modified potato starch), and a comparative composition Cl without film-forming agent.
[0273] In the studies, equal amounts of shampoo compositions IB, IC, 1D, or Cl were introduced into separated strands of curly hair for 15 seconds. The hair was then rinsed for 15 seconds and subsequently dried. The properties of the treated hair were evaluated both during and after the treatment process. The lather produced by the compositions was also evaluated during the treatment process.
[0274] Composition IB provided abundant lather during lathering, and the hair felt smooth during the lathering process. Hair treated with composition IB combed easily when wet and retained a smooth feel even after rinsing the shampoo. Compositions IC and 1D also provided good lather and a smooth feel to the hair during lathering. Hair treated with composition IC exhibited slight drag during combing when wet, but hair treated with composition 1D combed smoothly, and both offered good detangling benefits. Hair treated with both compositions IC and 1D was more coated than hair treated with composition IB.
[0275] On the other hand, although the Cl composition offered good foaming benefits, the hair did not appear as smooth or coated during the treatment process. The hair was noticeably more difficult to detangle.
[0276] Once the hair was dry, the benefits of curl elongation and frizz reduction were evaluated. Figure 3 shows images of the treated strands. As can be seen, the hair treated with composition Cl offered the least benefit in terms of curl elongation and frizz reduction, while compositions IB, IC, and 1D each offered increased elongation and frizz reduction to the respective hair strands.
[0277] This study demonstrates that the shampoo compositions according to the disclosure not only provide excellent lathering, even in the absence of sulfate-based surfactants, but also provide benefits to the hair such as texture Smoothness, frizz reduction, and curl elongation are typically associated with styling products rather than shampoos. These styling benefits, unexpected from a sulfate-free shampoo, are thought to be the result of a previously unknown synergy between the non-sulfate surfactant system and the film-forming agents present in the formulas. Example 4# - Additional Compositions
[0278] Compositions 2A-2D can also be prepared as indicated in Table 2, and are also expected to provide similar benefits of lathering, cleansing, softness, frizz control and curling.
[0279] [Table 4]
[0280] [Tables2] 2A 2B 2C 2D CERAMIDES 0.008 0.003 0.01 0.002 BEHENTRIMO NIUM CHLORIDE 0.05 hydroxypropylcellulose 0.30 0.2 CORN STARCH 1.00 Polyquaterium-10 0.50 sodium cocoyl taurate 1.00 1.00 0.75 sodium dioctyl sulfosuccinate 2.00 2.50 1.50 1.00 COCOBETAINE 1.00 0.50 0.75 C14-16 SODIUM OLEFIN SULFONATE 7.50 3.50 1.00 Ammonium alpha-olefin sulfonate 5.00 1.00 AMODIMETHICONE AND / OR DIMETHICONE 1.0 1.5 0.50 0.10 Cetearyl Alcohol 0.20 0.50 Disodium Cocoamphodiate Acetate 1.50 Disodium Capryloamphodipropionate 2.50 0.50 1.00 Trideceth-6 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 CARBOMER 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.005 0.02 PPG-5-CETETH-20 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 GLYCOL DISTEARATE 1.35 1.35 1.35 1.35 ADDITIVES (preservatives, vitamins, pH adjusters, stabilizers, antioxidants, etc.) <3 <3 <3 <3 SOLVENTS (water and non-aqueous solvents) QS per 100 QS per 100 QS per 100 QS per 100
[0281] The above examples demonstrate that the combination of surfactants and film-forming agents as disclosed is surprisingly effective in cleansing and providing desired cosmetic properties to hair, as well as in generating abundant, thick, and creamy lather in sulfate-free shampoo compositions.
Claims
Demands
1. A keratinous material treatment composition comprising: (a) a surfactant system comprising: (i) a first anionic surfactant selected from sulfate-derived anionic surfactants, (ii) at least one second anionic surfactant different from the first anionic surfactant, (iii) optionally at least one amphoteric surfactant, and (iv) optionally at least one nonionic surfactant; (b) at least one film-forming agent; (c) optionally at least one revitalizing agent; (d) optionally at least one anti-dandruff agent, and (e) water, in which the composition is substantially free from sulfate-based surfactants.
2. Composition according to claim 1, comprising a first anionic surfactant selected from C4-C28 alkyl sulfonates, C6-C30 alkyl sulfosuccinates, C6-C30 alkyl sulfoacetates, or their salts.
3. Composition according to claim 1, comprising a first anionic surfactant selected from C10-C24 olefin sulfonates, or their salts, preferably from sodium C14-C16 olefin sulfonate.
4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, comprising at least one second anionic surfactant selected from C4-C28 alkyl sulfonates, C6-C30 alkyl sulfosuccinates, isethionates, C6-C30 alkyl sulfoacetates, alkoxylated monoacids, acyl taurates, acyl glycinates, acyl glutamates, acyl sarcosinates, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these, preferably from C8-C30 alkyl sulfosuccinates, C8-C30 alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, alkoxylated monoacids, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these, more preferably from disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, or combinations of two or more of these.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the total amount of anionic surfactants present in the composition ranges from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 1.5% to about 18%, more preferably from about 2% to about 15%, more preferably still from about 2.5% to about 12%, most preferably from about 3% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, comprising at least one film-forming agent selected from film-forming agents of plant origin, wherein the total amount of film-forming agents present in the composition ranges from about 0.001% to about 3%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 3%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 2.75%, most preferably from about 0.1% to about 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, comprising at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from betaines, C8-C18 alkyl sultaines, C8-C18 alkyl amphoathetas, amphopropionates, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these, wherein the total amount of amphoteric surfactants present in the composition is from about 0.5% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 8%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 6%, most preferably from about 2% to about 5.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising at least one nonionic surfactant, wherein the total amount of nonionic surfactants ranges from about 0.01% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 4%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 3%, most preferably from about 0.25% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising at least one revitalizing agent selected from cationic revitalizing agents, silicone compounds, non-silicone fatty compounds, or combinations thereof.
10. A method for cleaning keratinous materials, the method comprising applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the keratinous materials, and rinsing the composition from the keratinous materials.