Active ingredient based on an extract of oyster milt

Abstract

The present invention relates to an active ingredient, particularly for cosmetic use, comprising an oyster extract, specifically oyster milt, as well as compositions, particularly cosmetic and pharmaceutical ones, comprising it, more particularly those intended for topical application. The invention also relates to its preparation process and its uses in dermatology or cosmetics, particularly in combating skin aging.

Description

Title of the invention: Active ingredient based on an extract of oyster milt technical field

[0001] The invention relates to a new active ingredient, particularly for cosmetic use, comprising an oyster extract, especially oyster milt, as well as compositions, particularly cosmetic and pharmaceutical ones, comprising it, more particularly those intended for topical application. The invention also relates to its preparation process and its uses in dermatology or cosmetics, particularly in combating skin aging. State of the art

[0002] During normal age-related aging, cellular metabolism gradually slows down, leading to a slowing of epidermal cell renewal. This results in the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. In addition, extrinsic factors caused by various environmental factors, including UV exposure, pollution, tobacco, etc., can accelerate this normal age-related aging.

[0003] Among the molecules involved, proteins, essential components of our body, are particularly affected. Their renewal is profoundly impaired. Being both less well synthesized and less properly formed, they can no longer perform their functions correctly and can even become harmful to the skin, thus promoting the appearance of wrinkles and a dull complexion.

[0004] In the field of cosmetics, the range of anti-aging ingredients is vast. Many active molecules are already known for their cosmetic efficacy and safety. Among these so-called reference molecules are retinol, niacinamide, and vitamins C and E.

[0005] However, most of the molecules on the market are of synthetic origin, or come from the chemical or biotechnology industries. Yet, the manufacture of these cosmetic products is no longer in line with the current wishes and needs of consumers, who place cosmetic care based on natural ingredients, particularly natural ingredients from the plant world, at the top of their expectations.

[0006] Cosmetic products based on natural ingredients are obviously well known, particularly those of plant origin. More recently, cosmetic products based on marine products have also been developed. Among these are products based on oyster extract.

[0007] However, currently known products inevitably lead to the death of the mollusk, since the majority of these extracts are derived from the entire mollusk or possibly from its flesh. The development of cosmetic products based on marine or non-marine animals that result in their death is no longer acceptable to a segment of the public. This is why the cosmetics industry has undertaken to develop new cosmetic products.

[0008] There is therefore a need for new cosmetic ingredients of natural origin to combat skin aging, offering overall anti-aging efficacy and respecting the environment, including the raw materials used in the preparation of these ingredients. This is the object of the present invention. Summary of the invention

[0009] Thus, the present invention relates to a cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract of oyster milt from the Ostreidae family, said extract being an alcoholic or hydroalcoholic extract.

[0010] The oyster is a bivalve mollusc of the family Ostreidae, comprising several genera, notably the genera Pynodonta, Crassostrea or Ostrea, for the best known.

[0011] The genus Pycnodonta includes species of bottom-dwelling oysters, meaning that their environment is that of shallow waters, down to 2000m. Thus, they have the particularity of living in places that are never exposed. They have a very round shell made of vacuoles.

[0012] Conversely, Crassostrea are intertidal oysters, meaning they live on a part of the shoreline that is exposed at each tide. Their reproduction takes place outside the shell, through chance encounters between eggs and sperm.

[0013] Finally, the genus Ostrea lives in areas that are always submerged or only very occasionally exposed. Unlike Crassostrea oysters, their mode of reproduction differs in that fertilization takes place inside the shell, and then the larvae are released into the outside world. In the context of the present invention, the inventors were particularly interested in the species Ostrea edulis.

[0014] An oyster consists of two valves, or shells, enclosing a fleshy part. This fleshy part includes the mantle, the gills, possibly the milt depending on the season, and the adductor muscle.

[0015] In the context of the present invention, the inventors were particularly interested in oyster milt, thus excluding any other part of the oyster.

[0016] Oyster milt is composed of fluid, including sperm and eggs. The size of oyster sperm and eggs varies depending on the oyster species, but generally, the sperm are much smaller than eggs. Eggs can be seen with the naked eye and measure approximately 100 to 200 micrometers in diameter, while sperm are much smaller, generally measuring 5 to 10 micrometers in length.

[0017] Advantageously, the extract according to the invention is a freeze-dried oyster milt. This extract has cosmetic properties of interest for combating skin aging. Furthermore, such an extract, obtained from oyster milt, has a significant advantage, namely that it does not cause induced mortality among the oysters during the extraction process.

[0018] Indeed, during the period in which the oysters naturally spawn in a culture tank, the seawater containing the milt is subsequently filtered, allowing the oyster milt to be isolated, that is to say the fluid including the gametes.

[0019] Most preferably, the extract is obtained from oyster milt gametes, and even more preferably from oyster eggs. A further filtration step, using a suitable filter, then allows the eggs to be specifically isolated.

[0020] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the extract according to the invention is an alcoholic and lyophilized extract. More preferably, it comprises amino acids, proteins, and mineral elements.

[0021] According to another particularly preferred object, the extract is obtained by an extraction process comprising the following steps: a. Recovery of oyster milt, advantageously from a cultured oyster bed b. Filtration and isolation of oyster milt gametes, advantageously oyster eggs, c. Extraction with alcohol, advantageously with ethyl alcohol, d. Purification, advantageously by concentration under vacuum, and e. Freeze-drying.

[0022] Preferably, oyster milt is recovered from seawater, in particular from seawater from oyster beds during breeding periods.

[0023] Thus, the active ingredient according to the invention is of natural origin and advantageously exhibits an anti-aging effect, thereby addressing the issues raised in the prior art. Furthermore, it can be used for cosmetic applications and thus incorporated into a cosmetic composition, advantageously a composition in a form suitable for topical application. The invention therefore also relates to a composition comprising at least 1% of the active ingredient according to the invention, by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0024] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic use of the active ingredient according to the invention, or of a composition according to the comprising, for a cosmetic treatment by topical application on the skin.

[0025] Preferably, the active ingredient according to the invention or the composition comprising it is intended for use for an anti-aging effect, more preferably to combat cellular aging and to fight wrinkles and / or fine lines. It also advantageously has a smoothing effect and improves the radiance of the complexion.

[0026] According to another object, the present invention is also of interest for a moisturizing effect and / or to combat redness not related to skin inflammation but also to increase the firming properties of the skin, and / or improve skin integrity.

[0027] Finally, according to a last aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic use of the active ingredient according to the invention, or of a composition according to the invention comprising it, for its use as an anti-inflammatory and / or antioxidant.

[0028] Other features and advantages will become apparent from the detailed description of the invention, the examples and figures that will follow. Brief description of the Figures

[0029] [Fig.1] represents the inhibitory activity of hyaluronidase with the active ingredient according to the invention compared to ursolic acid, positive control. Detailed description of the invention

[0030] Definition

[0031] For the purposes of this invention, "oyster of the Ostreidae family" means any oyster of the Ostreidae family, which may be of the genus Pynodonta, Crassostrea or Ostrea.

[0032] For the purposes of this invention, "cosmetic active ingredient" means an extract comprising at least one set of molecules having a cosmetic effect on the skin. Preferably, the cosmetic effect on the skin is an anti-aging effect.

[0033] For the purposes of this invention, "Ostrea extract" means an extract comprising at least one set of molecules, preferably an extract of the oyster Ostrea edulis, more preferably an extract consisting essentially of the milt of the oyster Ostrea edulis, obtained from any extraction process well known to those skilled in the art, in particular by alcoholic extraction and freeze-drying. The extract according to the invention is not an extract of the entire biomass of Ostrea edulis; in particular, the extract is not an extract derived from the oyster flesh.

[0034] The term "oyster milt extract" means an extract specifically derived from oyster milt, obtained in particular by filtration and specific concentration allowing the isolation of the gametes composing the oyster milt. More preferably, Oyster milt extract is an extract consisting essentially of oyster eggs.

[0035] Active ingredient according to the invention

[0036] The inventors focused on the only part of the oyster that could prevent its destruction and thus contribute to the preservation of natural resources, while respecting animal welfare and conservation. These are issues increasingly expected by consumers of cosmetic products based on natural ingredients, particularly those seeking organic cosmetics. Surprisingly, the inventors discovered that an extract based on oyster milt, constituting the active ingredient according to the invention, exhibited interesting anti-aging properties, notably skin hydration.

[0037] Therefore, the present invention relates to a cosmetic active ingredient comprising at least one extract of oyster milt from the Ostreidae family; preferably, the extract is an extract of oyster milt from the genus Ostrea, more preferably from the species Ostrea edulis. Most preferably, the extract consists essentially of oyster milt.

[0038] Oyster farming is initially carried out in oyster beds using traditional farming techniques known to oyster farmers. Then, unlike prior art, the inventors collect and isolate the oyster milt while preserving the oysters, thus contributing to the preservation of the resource. Indeed, during the reproductive period, the oysters naturally release oyster milt into the marine environment, particularly into the seawater of the oyster beds.

[0039] By successive filtrations, the inventors then specifically recover the oyster milt, more particularly the oyster gametes.

[0040] Thus, according to a preferred object of the invention, the extract is an extract of oyster milt gametes, comprising eggs and spermatozoa.

[0041] Very preferentially, oyster milt gametes are ova. Also, surprisingly, an active ingredient, comprising an extract consisting essentially of oyster ova, exhibits anti-aging cosmetic efficacy.

[0042] According to another object, the extract constituting or contained in the active ingredient according to the invention can be obtained by any process comprising at least one step of extracting oyster milt. The active ingredient according to the invention therefore excludes oyster biomass, or oyster meat, or oyster milt directly freeze-dried without prior extraction.

[0043] The extraction step is carried out by any means known to a person skilled in the art, for example by autolysis, sonication, homogenization, lysis, hydrolysis, aqueous maceration, alcoholic maceration, hydroalcoholic maceration.

[0044] Preferably, the extract is an alcoholic extract that improves the extraction and enrichment of the molecules of interest composing the extract, thereby enhancing the desired cosmetic efficacy. Alternatively, the extract is a hydroalcoholic extract.

[0045] The extraction can be alcoholic or hydroalcoholic. Preferably, the extract is an alcoholic extract. The solvent used is preferably ethyl alcohol, as this improves the cosmetic formulation.

[0046] According to one object of the invention, the extract comprises a set of molecules, including amino acids, proteins, and mineral elements, thus contributing to cosmetic efficacy.

[0047] According to a particularly preferred object, the extract is obtained by an extraction process comprising the following steps: a. Recovery of oyster milt, b. Filtration and isolation of oyster milt gametes, c. Extraction with ethyl alcohol, d. Purification, preferably by concentration under vacuum, and e. Freeze-drying.

[0048] Advantageously, the recovery of oyster milt is carried out using water present in oyster farming tanks during the fertilization period, by means of successive filtrations specifically designed to recover the oyster milt. The size of the filters is chosen according to the knowledge of those skilled in the art to isolate the milt, and more preferably the gametes.

[0049] The filtration and isolation step of oyster milt gametes is preferably carried out using a 20 / 50 micrometer filter.

[0050] Once isolated, an alcohol extraction step is carried out on the oyster milt gametes to extract the molecules of interest, preferably using ethyl alcohol. Furthermore, this step decolorizes, deodorizes, and concentrates the molecules constituting the extract according to the invention.

[0051] The process further comprises a filtration step after alcoholic extraction to remove any remaining suspended particles, including constituents not extracted by the solvent and solid particles (sand, etc.). This filtration step thus purifies the resulting alcoholic extract and is carried out to remove high molecular weight molecules.

[0052] The product obtained at this stage may optionally be further concentrated and / or purified, preferably by successive ultrafiltration steps through filters of different porosity, retaining the filtrates at each step and / or by a chromatographic method.

[0053] The product obtained after filtration, before or after concentration and sterilizing filtration, is an extract of oyster milt, and constitutes a first form of the active principle according to the invention, then being in liquid form.

[0054] Preferably, a final lyophilization step makes it possible to obtain another form of the active ingredient according to the invention, which is then in solid form, namely a lyophilized powder.

[0055] The cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention can be in liquid or solid form.

[0056] When in liquid form, the active ingredient according to the invention is preferably the extract as described above. It is in the form of a clear liquid. However, it may be more colored and / or decolorized by any process known to those skilled in the art. The active ingredient may also be combined with stabilizing or preservative agents.

[0057] When in solid form, the active ingredient according to the invention preferably consists of oyster milt extract as previously described and obtained by freeze-drying. Furthermore, a carrier selected from maltodextrin, gum arabic, soy lecithin, or isomalt may optionally be added.

[0058] The steps of the processes described above, taken individually, are usual in the field of extractions of active ingredients from natural ingredients and a person skilled in the art is able to adjust the reaction parameters on the basis of their general knowledge.

[0059] Composition

[0060] The active ingredient according to the invention may optionally be incorporated into a cosmetic composition, in particular a composition comprising at least 1% by weight of said active ingredient. In particular, the composition is in a form suitable for topical application such as a cream or lotion.

[0061] The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least 1% of an active ingredient according to any of the embodiments previously described, by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1 and 15%, by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0062] These compositions thus include, in addition to the active ingredient, a physiologically acceptable and preferably cosmetically acceptable environment, that is to say, one which does not cause unacceptable discomfort for the user such as redness, tightness or tingling.

[0063] The compositions according to the invention may also contain as an ingredient at least one compound selected from: - oils, which can be chosen in particular from among silicone oils, linear or cyclic, volatile or non-volatile, - waxes, such as ozokerite, polyethylene wax, beeswax or camauba wax, - silicone elastomers, - surfactants, preferably emulsifying, whether non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric, - co-surfactants, such as linear fatty alcohols, - thickeners and / or gelling agents, - humectants, such as polyols like glycerin, - colorings, preservatives, fillers, - the tensors, - the sequestrators, - perfumes, - and their mixtures, without this list being exhaustive.

[0064] Examples of such ingredients are cited in particular in the CTFA Dictionary (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook published by the Personal Care Product Council).

[0065] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compounds, active or inactive, and their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the mixture are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0066] Cosmetic use

[0067] The active ingredient according to the invention is of particular interest for its anti-aging effects.

[0068] The invention thus aims at a cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of the active principle according to the invention for its cosmetic effects, to have at least an anti-aging cosmetic effect.

[0069] Non-therapeutic use, in the context of the invention, means a cosmetic use of the active ingredient according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it, intended for healthy, non-sick persons, in particular persons with healthy skin.

[0070] Preferably, the active ingredient according to the invention, alone or in a composition, is intended to be used in topical application on the skin.

[0071] Thus, the present invention relates according to an object to the cosmetic use of the active principle according to the invention, or of a composition according to the comprising, for a cosmetic treatment by topical application on the skin.

[0072] According to one object of the invention, the cosmetic use is a use for an anti-aging effect, preferably to combat cellular aging and to fight against wrinkles and / or fine lines.

[0073] According to another object, the cosmetic use is a moisturizing effect and / or the fight against redness not related to skin inflammation and / or to increase the firming properties of the skin, and / or improve skin integrity.

[0074] Finally, according to a last aspect, the invention also relates to the active principle according to the invention or a composition comprising it, for its use as an anti-inflammatory and / or antioxidant.

[0075] The invention is now illustrated by non-limiting examples of compositions according to the invention and by results. Examples

[0076] Example 1 - Active ingredient according to the invention

[0077] The active ingredient of Example 1 is obtained from the eggs extracted from the milt of the oyster Ostrea edulis. The active ingredient of Example 1 is obtained by the following process: a. Recovery of oyster milt in liquid form b. Filtration and isolation of oyster milt gametes, in particular eggs, using a 20 / 50 micrometer filter, c. Extraction with ethyl alcohol, d. Purification, preferably by concentration under vacuum, and e. Lyophilization for 24 hours.

[0078] The active ingredient obtained has the following characteristics, namely a dry matter content of 20.1%.

[0079] Evaluation of the cosmetic effect of the active ingredient according to the invention

[0080] Test 1 - Effect of the active ingredient according to the invention on skin hydration

[0081] This test aims to determine the activity of hyaluronidase. This enzyme digests hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid forms a glycosaminoglycan polymer (polysaccharide) that is an essential component of the extracellular matrix (the skin's supporting tissue): it is responsible for maintaining skin hydration because it retains water and thus acts like a sponge. The enzyme called hyaluronidase digests hyaluronic acid and breaks it down into small fragments. The test used determines the inhibitory effect of given extracts on hyaluronidase activity. The more hyaluronidase is inhibited, the better the skin's hydration will be preserved.

[0082] The extract according to the invention in solid form is reconstituted in water and its inhibitory potential on the hyaluronidase enzyme is measured. Tannic acid (tannin) is used as a positive control in this test.

[0083] The results are presented in [Fig. 1]. The oyster milt-based extract according to the invention thus shows hyaluronidase inhibitory activity

[0084] Test 2 - Effect of the active ingredient according to the invention on oxidation

[0085] Measurement of superoxide dismutase activity

[0086] This test aims to determine the SOD value of a given extract, i.e., its antioxidant effect. The SOD test is a test that produces a formazan (colored reagent) upon reduction with the superoxide anion. The rate of reduction with a superoxide anion is linearly related to xanthine oxidase (XO) activity and is inhibited by SOD. The inhibition of SOD can thus be determined by a colorimetric method. Superoxide dismutase (SOD) is an enzyme that neutralizes free radicals, which are responsible for cellular oxidative stress and therefore accelerate skin aging.

[0087] The presence of this enzyme is a means of reducing this oxidative effect. The SOD activity is measured in the oyster milt extract according to the invention. The value obtained is 472.7 SOD units / g. Thus, the extract according to the invention exhibits an antioxidant effect.

[0088] Measurement of the ORAC index

[0089] This test aims to determine the ORAC (Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity) index of a given sample, i.e., its antioxidant potential. The ORAC test is based on the ability of the tested sample to inhibit the degradation of the fluorescent signal of fluorescein induced by a free radical generator, AAPH (2,2'-azobis(2-amidinopropane)dihydrochloride). Trolox, a water-soluble derivative of vitamin E, is used as a standard. The values ​​obtained are expressed in "trolox μmol equivalent" per liter or per gram of material. The higher the ORAC index, the better the antioxidant. The ORAC value obtained for the extract according to the invention is 369 μmol Trolox / g. Thus, the extract according to the invention exhibits an antioxidant effect.

[0090] Test 3 - Effect of the active ingredient according to the invention on toxicity

[0091] The determination of heavy metals and minerals, as well as a microbiological analysis, was carried out on oyster milt extract according to the invention.

[0092] The results are presented in Table 1 below.

[0093] [Tables 1] Parameter Value Unit Lead 0.22 (+ / -0.03) mg / kg Cadmium 0.16 (+ / -0.02) mg / kg Arsenic 21 (+ / -4) mg / kg Mercury 0.045 (+ / -0.006) mg / kg Cobalt 0.11 (+ / -0.02) mg / Kg Nickel <0.15 mg / Kg Selenium 3.3 (+ / -0.40) mg / Kg Zinc 216 (+ / -22) mg / Kg E. Coli count < 1.1 MPN / g

[0094] The results indicate fairly high arsenic levels (> 20 mg / kg), which necessitates adjusting the dosage of oyster milt extract in finished products to reduce user exposure to this substance. Indeed, the SCCS scientific committee considers a value of 3 mg / kg acceptable in the finished product. This indicates that the use of the final 7% milt extract is feasible (Safety Assessment of Zeolites as Used in Cosmetics, SCCS 2021).

[0095] Thus, the extract according to the invention is safe with regard to the quantities envisaged in the composition.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract of oyster milt from the family Ostreidae, said extract is an alcoholic extract.

2. Active ingredient according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the extract is an extract of oyster milt gametes.

3. Active ingredient according to the preceding claim, characterized in that oyster milt gametes are ova.

4. Active ingredient according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract is an extract of oyster milt of the species Ostrea edulis.

5. Active ingredient according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract is a lyophilized product.

6. Active ingredient according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract comprises amino acids, proteins, and mineral elements.

7. Active ingredient according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract is obtained by an extraction process comprising the following steps: a. Recovery of oyster milt b. Filtration and isolation of oyster milt gametes c. Extraction with ethyl alcohol d. Purification, preferably by concentration under vacuum, and e. Lyophilization.

8. Active ingredient according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that oyster milt is obtained from seawater from culture tanks during the reproductive period.

9. Composition comprising at least 1% of an active ingredient according to one of the preceding claims, by weight of the total weight of the composition.

10. Cosmetic use of an active ingredient according to any one of claims 1 to 9, or of a composition according to the preceding claim, for a cosmetic treatment by topical application to the skin.

11. Cosmetic use of an active ingredient according to any one of claims 1 to 9, or of a composition according to the preceding claim claimed to have an anti-aging effect, preferably to combat cellular aging and fight wrinkles

12. Cosmetic use of an active ingredient according to any one of claims 1 to 9, or of a composition according to the preceding claim, for a moisturizing effect and / or to combat redness not related to skin inflammation.

13. Cosmetic use of an active ingredient according to any one of claims 1 to 9, or of a composition according to the preceding claim, to increase the skin-firming properties, and / or improve skin integrity.

14. Active ingredient according to any one of claims 1 to 9, or composition according to the preceding claim, for its use as an anti-inflammatory and / or antioxidant.

Images