Composition comprising glycerin and at least one polyglycerol diester

Abstract

Composition comprising glycerin and at least one polyglycerol diester. The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, glycerin and at least one polyglycerol diester selected from fatty acid diesters comprising 6 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerol diesters comprising 5 to 12 glycerol units. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising glycerin and at least one polyglycerol diester

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising a particular combination of at least one specific polyglycerol diester and glycerin, said composition enabling the increase of skin tone and elasticity.

[0002] As a protective barrier and interface with the environment, the skin is both resistant and fragile; it can lose its elasticity and its ability to retain water can decrease, leading to dryness. It is therefore important to ensure sufficient hydration to the skin to preserve its suppleness, softness, appearance, and / or tone.

[0003] To combat the signs of skin dehydration, it is known to apply cosmetic compositions that promote hydration to the areas of application. Skin that is well hydrated by a cosmetic product should be able to stretch more easily while maintaining good tone.

[0004] Conventional moisturizing agents, such as humectants, moisturizing polymers, and fatty substances like petrolatum or polyols, temporarily modify the surface properties of the skin, for example by retaining water in the superficial layers. These agents can lead to mechanical softening of the stratum corneum, an increase in its hydration level, and / or an improvement in the skin's microrelief through the formation of a film on the skin's surface.

[0005] One of the most frequently expressed expectations, particularly in the anti-aging product category, concerns solutions that improve skin firmness, especially on the face, as well as wrinkles, radiance, and skin texture. Immediate effects, particularly skin softening, are perceived as a sign of effectiveness in combating the signs of aging.

[0006] The present invention therefore aims to provide a composition capable of improving the biomechanical properties of the skin, in particular the elasticity of the skin.

[0007] The present invention also aims to provide a composition that gives the skin greater tone, a plumping effect, and / or a bouncy appearance. By "bouncy appearance," we mean a skin-remodeling effect. The skin is smoother and has a plumper appearance, which is maintained even after pressure is applied to the skin with a finger.

[0008] Furthermore, cosmetic research strives to offer formulas that respond as closely as possible to a quest for environmental responsibility and consumption A more thoughtful, understated approach to cosmetic products that are both simpler and of higher quality. Consumers are looking for both "useful" products that make a difference, particularly with an immediate plumping or plumping effect, and simplified beauty routines with formulas containing as few ingredients as possible.

[0009] Until now it was considered that only so-called "biological effect" active ingredients were capable of modifying the biophysics of the skin.

[0010] It turns out that certain combined ingredients, such as the diester(s) and glycol(s) according to the invention, are of interest in themselves for optimizing the biomechanical properties of the skin. And surprisingly, this effect is greater than that measured for other types of esters such as polyglycerol monoesters.

[0011] The inventors have now found that the combination of a polyol and at least one specific polyglycerol diester increases skin tone and gives the skin a plumping effect and a bouncy appearance. This effect is immediate and observed even in an emulsion, particularly an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0012] The present invention therefore relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: between 5 and 40% by weight of glycerin, and between 0.1 and 9% by weight, of at least one polyglycerol diester chosen from fatty acid diesters comprising respectively 6 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerol comprising 5 to 12 glycerol motifs, on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

[0013] Furthermore, according to a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of said polyglycerol diester(s) to any optional polyglycerol monoester(s) present in the composition is greater than 1.

[0014] By “physiologically acceptable”, we mean a medium compatible with keratinous materials.

[0015] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care of keratinous materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0016] The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention to increase skin tone and elasticity and / or provide a plumping effect and / or a bouncy appearance of the skin, in particular of the stratum comeum.

[0017] In the context of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated, the following definitions apply:

[0018] According to the invention, "keratinous materials" refer to the skin of the body, face and / or around the eyes, lips, nails, mucous membranes, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, beard, scalp and / or head hair, or any other area cutaneous of the body. More particularly, the keratinous materials according to the invention are the skin and / or the scalp.

[0019] By "skin" we mean the entire skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, décolletage, neck, arms and forearms, or even more preferably the skin of the face, in particular the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin, eye contour.

[0020] The compositions according to the present invention are preferably cosmetic compositions. For the purposes of this invention, "cosmetic" means a composition compatible with the skin, mucous membranes, and hair.

[0021] A composition according to the invention is suitable for application on keratinous materials, in particular topical application on the skin, and therefore comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. compatible with the skin.

[0022] Preferably, this is a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say, one which has a pleasant colour, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomforts, that is to say, tingling, pulling, redness, which may deter the user from applying this composition.

[0023] The expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more".

[0024] The expressions "includes from ... to ...", "consisting of ... to ...", and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood inclusively. Conversely, the expression "between ... and ..." should be understood exclusively, for the purposes of the present invention.

[0025] The composition according to the invention comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, between 5 and 40% by weight of glycerin, and between 0.1 and 9% by weight of at least one polyglycerol diester selected from fatty acid diesters comprising 6 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerol comprising 5 to 12 glycerol motifs, on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

[0026] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises at least one polyglycerol monoester, in particular selected from fatty acid monoesters comprising 6 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerol monoesters comprising 5 to 12 glycerol units. Preferably in this case, the weight ratio of polyglycerol diester(s) to polyglycerol monoester(s) is greater than 1.

[0027] Indeed, the properties sought by the present invention (tonicity, skin elasticity, plumping effect, bouncy appearance of the skin) are optimal when the weight ratio of said polyglycerol diester(s) to any optional polyglycerol monoester(s) present in the composition is greater than 1.

[0028] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of polyglycerol monoester. By "substantially free of polyglycerol monoester", it is meant that the composition comprises less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of polyglycerol monoester.

[0029] Specific fatty acid and polyglycerol diester

[0030] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyglycerol diester selected from fatty acid diesters comprising 6 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerol comprising 5 to 12 glycerol motifs, in a content of between 0.1 and 9% by weight, on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

[0031] Preferably, the diester is chosen from fatty acid diesters comprising 10 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerol diesters comprising 6 to 12 glycerol motifs, preferably 6 to 10 glycerol motifs.

[0032] Advantageously, the polyglycerol diester according to the invention results from the esterification of two fatty acids, and a polyglycerol.

[0033] The term "polyglycerol" refers to glyceryl polymers which are linear chains of 5 to 12 units (or motifs) of glycerol.

[0034] In general, the diesters according to the invention are derived from the esterification of at least two hydroxyl functions of a polyglycerol by two carboxylic acids, each of these acids being respectively in C6-C18, preferably in C10-C18.

[0035] According to a particular embodiment, the diesters suitable for the present invention can be derived from the esterification of a polyglycerol by two carboxylic acids, identical or different. It may be a hydroxylated diester.

[0036] The unsaturated acids are in particular selected from: caproleic acid (C10:1), palmitoleic acid (C16:1), oleic acid (C18:1), linoleic acid (C18:2), alpha-linolenic acid (C18:3), gamma-linolenic acid (C18:3), preferably oleic acid. The two unsaturated carboxylic acids are preferably linear.

[0037] Saturated acids are in particular selected from: caproic acid (C6), caprylic acid (octanoic acid) (C8), capric acid (decanoic acid) (C10), lauric acid (dodecanoic acid) C12, myristic acid (tetradecanoic acid) (Cl4), palmitic acid (hexadecanoic acid) (Cl6), stearic acid (octadecanoic acid) (C18).

[0038] Advantageously, polyglycerol diesters are chosen from fatty acid diesters comprising 10 to 18 carbon atoms, and polyglycerol diesters comprising 5 to 12 glycerol motifs, preferably 6 to 10 glycerol motifs.

[0039] According to a preferred embodiment, the diester is selected from fatty acid diesters, preferably saturated, in particular comprising 10 carbon atoms, and polyglycerol diesters, preferably comprising 6 glycerol units. Preferably, the fatty acid in C10 is capric acid.

[0040] Preferably, the fatty acid diester is polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, corresponding to the INCI name: Polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate (SUNSOFT Q-102H-C from TAIYO KAGAKU).

[0041] According to another preferred embodiment, the diester is selected from fatty acid diesters, preferably unsaturated, in particular those comprising 18 carbon atoms, and from polyglycerol diesters comprising 10 glycerol units. Preferably, the fatty acid in Cl8 is oleic acid.

[0042] Preferably, the fatty acid diester is polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, corresponding to the INCI name: Polyglyceryl-10 dioleate (SUNSOFT Q-172Y-C from TAIYO KAGAKU).

[0043] Advantageously, the diester is present in the composition at a content of 0.5 to 9%, preferably 1 to 8.5%, preferably 1 to 8%, preferably 1 to 7%, preferably 2 to 6%, preferably 2 to 5%, by weight of said diester, on the total weight of the composition representing 100%. Glycerin

[0044] The composition according to the invention comprises between 5 and 40% by weight of glycerin, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] Advantageously, glycerin is present in the composition according to the invention in a content of 5.5 to 40%, preferably 6 to 35%, preferably 6.5 to 30%, preferably 7 to 30%, preferably 7.5 to 25% by weight, preferably 8 to 20%, preferably 9 to 15% by weight, preferably 10 to 15%, by weight of glycerin, on the total weight of the composition representing 100%. Other possible polyols

[0046] The composition according to the invention may optionally further comprise at least one other polyol, that is to say a polyol other than glycerin, in addition to the glycerin already present in the composition according to the invention.

[0047] By polyol, we mean a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 2 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and bearing at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols used in the present invention may have a weight-average molecular mass less than or equal to 1000, preferably between 90 and 500. The polyol may be natural or synthetic. The polyol may have a linear, branched, or cyclic molecular structure.

[0048] The polyol can be selected from glycerin derivatives, glycols and derivatives thereof. The polyol can be selected from: diglycerin, polyglycerin, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, octane 1,2-diol, polyethylene glycols, in particular having 5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and sugars such as sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

[0049] Preferably, said polyol(s) is / are present in a content of 0.1% to 25% by weight, and preferably of 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably of 1% to 10% by weight, on the total weight of the composition.

[0050] Preferably, the weight ratio of glycerin to any polyol(s) other than glycerin optionally present in the composition is greater than 1, preferably greater than 2, preferably greater than 3, in the composition of the invention.

[0051] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of polyols other than glycerin; preferably, the composition contains less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is completely free of polyols other than glycerin. Optional surfactant(s)

[0052] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one surfactant, in particular selected from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic surfactants, used alone or in mixture.

[0053] Surfactants, when present in the composition, are present at a content in the range of 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

[0054] Naturally, the surfactant is chosen so as to effectively stabilize the emulsions according to the invention, namely of the O / W, W / W, or O / W / W type. Preferably, the composition of the invention is an O / W type emulsion.

[0055] Advantageously, the composition of the invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant, preferably an ester other than said diester described above according to the invention, preferably selected from polyol and saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acid esters having, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylated derivatives, i.e. having oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated units, such as C8-C24 fatty acid and glyceryl esters, and their oxyalkylated derivatives; C8-C24 fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters, and their oxyalkylated derivatives; C8-C24 fatty acid and sorbitan esters, or C8-C24 fatty acid and sorbitol esters, and their oxyalkylated derivatives; C8-C24 sugar (sucrose, glucose, alkylglucose) and fatty acid esters, and their oxyalkylated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; C8-C24 sugar and fatty alcohol ethers, and mixtures thereof.

[0056] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C8-C24 fatty acid glyceryl ester, preferably C16-C22, which can be obtained Specifically, it is derived from an acid with a saturated linear alkyl chain, having 8 to 24, preferably 16 to 22, carbon atoms. Examples of glyceryl fatty acid esters include glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and / or tri-glyceryl stearate) (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate), glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the glyceryl fatty acid ester used is selected from among the glyceryl stearates.

[0057] The glyceryl fatty acid ester may be present in an amount from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and preferably from 0.4% to 3% by weight.

[0058] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C8-C24 fatty acid ester and polyethylene glycol, preferably a C16-C22 fatty acid ester containing 8 to 100 ethylene oxide units. The fatty acid chain of the esters may be selected, in particular, from stearyl, behenyl, arachidyl, palmityl, cetyl, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl, and preferably a stearyl chain. The fatty acid and polyethylene glycol ester is preferably selected from polyethylene glycol stearates.

[0059] The number of ethylene oxide units can range from 8 to 150, preferably from 10 to 100. As an example of a fatty acid and polyethylene glycol ester, we can cite the stearic acid esters comprising respectively 20, 30, 40, 50, 100 ethylene oxide units, such as the products marketed respectively under the name Myrj 49 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 20 OE; CTFA name: PEG-20 stearate), Myrj 51, Myrj 52 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 40 OE; CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate), Myrj 53, Myrj 59 P by the company CRODA. As an ester of polyethylene glycol and fatty acid, we can also mention in particular polyethylene glycol stearate (mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate of polyethylene glycol), preferably comprising 40 to 150 units of ethylene oxide, and more especially polyethylene glycol monostearate 50 OE (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate), polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 OE (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) and their mixtures.

[0060] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one ester of stearic acid and polyethylene glycol containing 100 units of ethylene oxide (PEG-100 stearate). Preferably, said ester is a monoester. The stearic acid and polyethylene glycol ester containing 100 units of ethylene oxide may, in particular, be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.25% to 2.5% by weight.

[0061] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one mixture of surfactants, such as, for example, the product containing Glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, notably marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by the company Croda, or the product containing Glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono / distearate) and potassium stearate, notably marketed under the name TEGIN by the company Goldschmidt (INCI name: glyceryl stearate SE).

[0062] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises a mixture of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 OE, and in particular that comprising a 50 / 50 mixture, marketed under the name Arlacel 165 by the company Croda.

[0063] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least a mixture of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol monostearate(s), preferably comprising 8 to 100 units of ethylene oxide, preferably 20 to 100, and preferably 40 to 100 units of ethylene oxide; preferably a mixture of glyceryl stearate, polyethylene glycol monostearate comprising 40 EO and / or polyethylene glycol monostearate comprising 100 EO.

[0064] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C8-C24 fatty acid ester, preferably C16-C22, and sorbitan selected from sorbitan stearates, in particular sorbitan tristearate. The C8-C24 fatty acid esters, preferably C16-C22, and sorbitan esters are formed by esterification of at least one fatty acid having at least one saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chain, having from 8 to 24, preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, respectively, with sorbitol. These esters may be selected, in particular, from sorbitan stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, oleates, and mixtures thereof. Sorbitan stearates and palmitates are preferably used, and sorbitan stearates are preferred.

[0065] Examples of sorbitan esters usable in compositions according to the invention include sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: Sorbitan stearate) sold by Croda under the name Span 60, sorbitan tristearate sold by Croda under the name Span 65 V, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: Sorbitan palmitate) sold by Croda under the name Span 40, sorbitan monoleate sold by Croda under the name Span 80 V, and sorbitan trioleate sold by Uniquema under the name Span 85 V. Preferably, the sorbitan ester used is sorbitan tristearate.

[0066] The fatty acid ester in C8-C24, preferably in C16-C22, and of sorbitan may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.25% to 1.5% by weight.

[0067] Examples of fatty acid and glucose or alkylglucose esters include glucose palmitate and alkylglucose sesquistearates such as methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates such as methylglucose or ethylglucose palmitate, fatty esters of methylglucoside and more specifically the diester of methylglucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate); the mixed ester of methylglucoside and the mixture of oleic acid / hydroxystearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate / hydroxystearate); the ester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose isostearate); the ester of methylglucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose laurate); the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose sesquiisostearate); the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucate SS by the company LUBRIZOL, and their mixtures.

[0068] Examples of sucrose esters include sucrose palmito-stearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose mono laurate.

[0069] Examples of oxyethylenated fatty acid and glucose or alkylglucose ethers include oxyethylenated fatty acid and methylglucose ethers, and in particular polyethylene glycol methyl glucose diester and stearic acid ether with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) such as the product marketed under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by the company AMERCHOL; polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methyl glucose and stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by the company LUBRIZOL and that marketed under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, and their mixtures.

[0070] Examples of fatty alcohol ethers include polyethylene glycol and fatty alcohol ethers having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and particularly 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as polyethylene glycol and cetyl, stearyl, and cetearyl alcohol ethers (mixtures of cetyl and stearyl alcohols). Examples also include ethers having 1 to 200, and preferably 2 to 100, oxyethylenated groups, such as those known as CTFA Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] Examples of sugar ethers include alkyl polyglucosides, such as decyl glucoside, marketed under the name MYDOL 10 by Kao Chemicals, PLANTAREN 2000 by Henkel, and ORAMIX NS 10 by Seppic; and caprylyl / capryl glucoside, marketed under the name ORAMIX CG 110.by Seppic or under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 by BASF; lauryl glucoside such as the products marketed under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N and PLANTACARE 1200 by Henkel; coco-glucoside such as the product marketed under the name PLANTACARE 818 / UP by Henkel; cetostearyl glucoside possibly in a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name MONTANOV 68 by Seppic, under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302 by Henkel; arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV 202 by Seppic;cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of the mixture (35 / 65) with cetyl and stearyl alcohols, marketed under the name MONTANOV 82 by the company Seppic, and mixtures thereof. Aqueous phase

[0072] The composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to the polyol, preferably a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium. By "physiologically acceptable" is meant a medium compatible with keratinous materials.

[0073] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an aqueous medium comprising water and optionally a water-soluble organic solvent at 25°C, chosen for example from linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol, propanol, butanol; and mixtures thereof.

[0074] The composition generally comprises from 4 to 95% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 20 to 90%.

[0075] The quantity of organic solvent(s) can range for example from 0 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight, better from 1 to 20% by weight, even better from 1.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrophilic thickening polymer

[0076] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic thickening polymer. The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic or water-soluble thickening polymer, in particular selected from:

[0077] - natural polymers such as cellulose derivatives such as carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, xanthan gum, locust bean gum, scleroglucan, gellan gum, rhamsan gums, alginates, karaya gum, modified starches, modified or unmodified guar gums and their derivatives such as Hydroxypropylguar, or hyaluronic acid salts such as sodium hyaluronate,

[0078] - hydrophilic clays. A hydrophilic clay is understood to be a clay capable of swelling in water; this clay swells in water and, after hydration, forms a colloidal dispersion. Examples of hydrophilic clays include smectites such as saponites, hectorites, montmorillonites, bentonites, and beidellite. Examples include synthetic hectorites (also called laponites) such as the products sold by the Laporte company under the names Laponite XLG, Laponite RD, and Laponite RDS (these products are sodium and magnesium silicates, and in particular sodium, lithium, and magnesium silicates); bentonites such as the product sold under the name Bentone HC by the RHEOX company; magnesium and aluminum silicates, particularly hydrated ones such as the products sold by the Vanderbilt Company under the names Veegum Ultra, Veegum HS, and Veegum DGT; and calcium silicates, especially the synthetic form sold by the company under the name Micro-cel C.

[0079] - homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or their salts and their esters and in particular the products sold under the names VERSICOL F® or VERSICOL K® by the company ALLIED COLLOID, UTRAHOLD 8® by the company CIBA-GEIGY, or polyacrylic acids of the SYNTHALEN K type,

[0080] - acrylic acid and acrylamide copolymers sold in the form of their salt sodium salts under the brand name RETEN® by the company HERCULES, sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the brand name HYDAGEN F® by the company HENKEL,

[0081] - PEMULEN-type poly(meth)acrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers TR-1 or PEMULEN TR-2 from BF Goodrich, or Carbopol ETD-2020, Carbopol ETD-1382, Carbopol ETD-1342,

[0082] - homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylamido acid propanesulfonic acid (AMPS®, Lubrizol monomer), such as for example: • polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked, marketed in particular by the company CLARIANT, for example under the name HOSTACERIN AMPS®; • copolymers of acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid / acrylamide, for example of the SEPIGEL or SIMULGEL type, marketed in particular by the company SEPPIC, • copolymers of acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid / methacry polyoxyethylenated alkyl (crosslinked or not) including those of the ARISTOFLEX HMS and ARISTOFLEX TAC type, marketed by the company CLARIANT, • copolymers of acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as the acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, notably that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL NS by the company SEPPIC, or the acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, notably that used in the commercial product sold under the name SEPINOV EMT 10 marketed by the company SEPPIC (INCI name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER);

[0083] - associative polymers and in particular associative polyurethanes such as The Ci6-OEi2o-Ci6 polymer from ELEMENTIS (marketed as RHEOLATE FX1100, a urethane-based molecule with a weight-average molecular weight of 1300), with OE representing an oxyethylenated motif, Rheolate 205 with a urea function sold by RHEOX, or Rheolate 208 or 204 (these polymers are sold in pure form), or DW 1206B from RHOM & HAAS with a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at a 20% active concentration in water. Solutions or dispersions of these associative polyurethanes can also be used, particularly in water or in hydroalcoholic solutions. Examples of such polymers include RHEOLATE FX1010, RHEOLATE FX1035, RHEOLATE 1070, Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278, and Rheolate 244, sold by ELEMENTIS. Other options include DW 1206F and DW 1206J, as well as Acrysol RM 184 or Acrysol 44 from RHOM & HAAS, and Borchigel LVV 44 from BORCHERS.

[0084] - and their mixtures.

[0085] Preferably, the hydrophilic thickening polymer according to the invention, alone or in mixture, is present in quantities of active material ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight and more particularly from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0086] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is substantially oil-free. By "substantially oil-free," it is understood that the composition comprises less than 0.008% by weight, preferably less than 0.005% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition is completely oil-free, that is, it contains no oil. In this case, the composition comprises an aqueous phase, as described above. Oily phase

[0087] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one oil phase. The oil phase (also called the fatty phase) preferably contains at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil. The quantity of the oil phase may range, for example, from 5% to 90%, and preferably from 10% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It may also contain other fatty substances.

[0088] By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa), immiscible with water.

[0089] By "immiscible" is meant that the mixture of the same quantity of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution comprising only one phase, under the aforementioned temperature and pressure conditions. The observation is made visually or, if necessary, using a phase-contrast microscope, on 100 g of the mixture obtained after sufficient Rayneri shaking to create a vortex within the mixture (for example, 200 to 1000 rpm); the resulting mixture being left to stand in a closed bottle for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.

[0090] Examples of oils that can be used in the composition of the invention include:

[0091] - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

[0092] - vegetable hydrocarbon oils, such as liquid triglycerides fatty acids containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;

[0093] - synthetic esters and ethers, particularly of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which RI represents the remainder of a fatty acid comprising 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearylmalate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate or dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate;

[0094] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, branched chain hydrocarbon oils containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms such as isohexadecane, isododecane, isoparaffins and their mixtures, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as, for example, Parleam® marketed by NIPPON OIL FATS, PANALANE H-300 E marketed by AMOCO, VISEAL 20000 marketed by SYNTEAL, REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed by WITCO, or PARLEAM LITE marketed by NOF Corporation;

[0095] - partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone-containing fluorinated oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912;

[0096] - silicone oils such as volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or non-linear or cyclic silicone chains, liquid or paste-like at room temperature, including cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy, or phenyl groups, either pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, with groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylened silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; or

[0097] - their mixtures.

[0098] As indicated above, the composition according to the invention may include, in the oily phase, other fatty substances. Preferably, these fatty substances are chosen from fatty alcohols having 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, the mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol.

[0099] Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a creamy appearance, in particular an opaque cream. The dispersed phase typically contains droplets having an average number diameter on the order of a micrometer, measured by laser particle size analysis or by optical microscopy. Additives

[0100] The composition according to the invention may also include any additive commonly used in cosmetics, in particular chosen from: fillers, preservatives, UV filters, coloring materials, active ingredients, and mixtures thereof.

[0101] The quantities of these various additives are those conventionally used in the field concerned, for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These additives, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the oil phase or into the aqueous phase. Preparation and properties

[0102] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential and optional components above according to a conventional process.

[0103] Advantageously, the composition of the invention comprises an aqueous phase and / or an oily phase, preferably the composition is in the form of an H / W, W / H, or W / W / H type emulsion, preferably the composition is an H / W type emulsion.

[0104] Finally, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care of keratinous materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0105] It also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention, in particular in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, to increase skin tone and elasticity and / or provide a plumping effect and / or a bouncy appearance of the skin, in particular of the stratum comeum.

[0106] The effect obtained by simultaneously increasing the skin's biomechanical parameters, particularly its extensibility, tone, and / or elasticity, for example according to the following examples of the invention up to values ​​such as Ue > 0.45, Ur > 0.7, and Ur / Ue > 1.3, makes it possible to obtain a so-called "plump-up" effect on the skin, and in particular gives it a plumping effect and / or a bouncy appearance. The skin is smoother and has a more fleshy appearance. Advantageously, this effect is immediate and is maintained even after pressure is applied to the skin with a finger. This also makes it possible to obtain surface effects, particularly on skin microreliefs, in particular smoothing wrinkles and fine lines and / or hydrating the skin.

[0107] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of a keratinous material comprising the application on the surface of said keratinous material of at least one composition according to the present invention.

[0108] The composition according to the invention can be applied to the skin or lips, depending on its intended use. It can thus be used in a cosmetic skin treatment process, comprising applying the composition according to the invention to the skin, for example, to tone, regenerate, smooth fine lines, and / or combat skin aging and other harmful effects. UV radiation and / or to strengthen skin tissues against environmental aggressions.

[0109] Alternatively, the composition according to the invention can be used for the manufacture of a dermatological preparation.

[0110] The composition may be a skincare composition, in particular a skincare product such as a skincare base, a skincare cream (day cream, night cream, anti-wrinkle cream), a makeup base; a lip care composition (lip balm); a sun protection or self-tanning composition.

[0111] The composition may also be a makeup composition, in particular a makeup product for the skin or lips. In particular, the makeup composition may be a foundation, a concealer, or a body makeup product.

[0112] Advantageously, the composition is a non-rinsed composition.

[0113] An emulsion according to the invention can be prepared according to the following general procedure: Mix the components of the aqueous phase by heating to a temperature of approximately 70°C. Separately, mix the oils and surfactants by heating to a temperature of approximately 80°C. Pour the oil phase into the aqueous phase at a temperature of approximately 70°C and then stir for 10 minutes using a high-speed turbine. Cool the resulting emulsion to approximately 60°C. Then add the thickeners, followed by the fillers, and stir again for 10 minutes. Next, introduce any active ingredients at a temperature of 35°C. Complete the manufacturing process at 30°C.

[0114] The invention will now be illustrated by means of the following non-limiting examples. Examples

[0115] In the examples, the temperature is ambient temperature (20°C) and expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise stated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure unless otherwise stated.

[0116] In the examples, the quantities of the ingredients of the compositions are given as % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0117] Measurement of the in vivo mechanical effect of compositions on the skin. Preparation of compositions#:

[0118] The following compositions Fl to F13 according to the invention are prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the tables below. Measurement apparatus and principle#:

[0119] The compositions were tested for their mechanical properties of elasticity with respect to the stratum corneum, as follows:

[0120] The formulas or compositions F1-F6 and F7-F13 were analyzed in vivo with the "Dermal Torquemeter®" as follows:

[0121] The Torquemeter is a non-invasive device. The measuring head of the DTM consists of a movable central disc 20 mm in diameter and a fixed circular plate. This device is applied to the skin using fixed concentric double-sided adhesive tape. The rotation angle of the central disc is measured by a very high-resolution angular sensor. When the measuring head is applied, the central disc pivots. A torsional stress of an angle Ue is then applied to the area of ​​skin between the movable central disc and the peripheral fixed ring (rapid deformation). The rotation angle then continues to increase at a reduced rate by an angle Uv.

[0122] After the stopping of the torsional couple, the skin returns to its initial state in two stages, rapid (Ur deformation) and slow back to the origin.

[0123] The precise measurement areas are identified using a circular mask. The measured parameters are:

[0124] Ue: skin extensibility (immediate deformation),

[0125] Ur: skin tone (immediate return after removal of stress), and

[0126] Ur / Ue ratio: skin elasticity (ratio between deformation and immediate return).

[0127] These measurements are carried out at T0 (before application of the formulas) and at Tlh (1 hour after application of the formulas), on the skin at the level of the forearms of 24 volunteers aged 45 to 65 years.

[0128] The results are expressed as average with a 95% confidence interval.

[0129] Example 1: Comparison of different types of esters in aqueous compositions

[0130] The performance of polyglycerol diesters was compared to that of polyglycerol monoesters in Table 1 below. The results obtained are as follows:

[0131] [Tables 1] Ingrédients Fl F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 WATER / AQUA 86 86 86 86 86 86 AMMONIUM POLYAC RYLOYLDIMETHYL T AURATE 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 GLYCERIN 10 10 10 10 10 10 PHENOXYETHANOL 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 POLYGLYCERYL-10 DI OLEATE 2 POLYGLYCERYL-6 DI CAPRATE 2 POLYGLYCERYL-5 Mo no- / Di- / Tri-LAURATE M élange d’esters (1:1:1) 2 Fraction monoester POLY GLYCERYL-5 Mono-LAURATE 2 Fraction diester POLYGL YCERYL-5 Di-LAURATE 2 POLYGLYCERYL-3 DII SOSTEARATE 2 Ue (Tlh-TO) ± IC 0,53 ± 0 ,09 0,47 ± 0 ,09 0,36 ± 0 ,07 0,32 ± 0 ,08 0,42 ± 0 ,11 0,34 ± 0 ,07 Ur (Tlh-TO) ± IC 0,8 ± 0, 19 0,74 ± 0 ,18 0,55 ± 0 ,20 0,35 ± 0 ,09 0,55 ± 0 ,12 0,35 ± 0 ,06 Ur / Ue (Tlh-TO) 1,51 1,57 1,53 0,91 0,76 1,03

[0132] The parameters Ue (skin extensibility), Ur (skin tonicity) and / or Ur / Ue (skin elasticity) are superior in the case of the glycerol diesters according to the invention, in particular Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate in Fl and Polyglyceryl-6 Dicaprate in F2, with Ue> 0.45, Ur > 0.7 and Ur / Ue >1.3 in the case of Fl or F2; compared with other formulations.

[0133] The fraction corresponding to the polyglycerol monoester (formula F4) on the one hand, and that of the polyglycerol diester (formula F5) on the other hand, were respectively extracted by separative SFC (Supercritical Fluid Chromatography) from POLYGLYCERYL-5 Mono- / Di- / Tri-LAURATE comprising a mixture of esters, and then compared.

[0134] F5 (diester) led to better skin extensibility (Ue), and better skin tone (Ur), compared to the corresponding monoester fraction used in formula F4. For F3 containing a mixture (1:1:1) of mono-, di- and tri-ester of POLYGLYCERYL-5 LAURATE, the skin extensibility Ue (immediate effect) is lower.

[0135] Conclusion: In Table 1, the formulas comprising a specific polyglycerol diester according to the invention, in particular Fl or F2, are effective for the plump- effect immediate up sought. Indeed Fl and F2 present high values, for the three parameters measured: cutaneous extensibility Ue (immediate deformation), cutaneous tonicity (Ur), and cutaneous elasticity (Ur / Ue).

[0136] Example 2: Comparison of different types of esters in an oil-in-water emulsion - skincare cream

[0137] [Tables2] Ingrédients F7 invention F8 comparatif F9 comparatif POLYGLYCERYL-10 DIOLEATE 5 POLYGLYCERYL-5 (Mono- / Di- / Tri-) LAURAT E 5 WATER 5 GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEA RATE 1 1 1 PEG-40 STEARATE 1 1 1 ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 18,54 18,54 18,54 DIPENTAERYTHRITYL PENTAISONONANO ATE 2,85 2,85 2,85 AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAUR ATE / STEARETH-25 METHACRYLATE CRÛS SPOLYMER 0,7 0,7 0,7 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM AC RYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYME R 0,4 0,4 0,4 GLYCERIN 15 15 15 BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-2 7,5 7,5 7,5 PHENOXYETHANOL 0,5 0,5 0,5 WATER / AQUA Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 SILICA 2,7 2,7 2,7 CELLULOSE 3 3 3 ALCOHOL DENAT. 3 3 3 Ue (Tlh-TO) ± IC (extensibilité) 0,55 + 0,11 0,48 + 0,12 0,27 + 0,09 Ur (Tlh-TO) + IC (tonicité) 0,75 + 0,13 0,58 + 0,15 0,3 + 0,11 Ur / Ue (Tlh-TO) (élasticité) 1,36 1,21 1,11

[0138] Conclusion: The H / W cream emulsion of formula F7 according to the invention exhibits both better skin extensibility (Ue) (immediate effect), better skin tone (Ur) and better skin elasticity (Ur / Ue), with in particular Ue> 0.45, Ur > 0.7 and Ur / Ue >1.3; compared to the H / W cream emulsions of formulas F8 and F9.

[0139] Example 3: Comparison of different types of esters in an oil-in-water serum emulsion

[0140] [Tables3] Ingrédients F10 invention Fil comparatif F12 comparatif WATER Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 GLYCERIN 10 10 10 BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-2 0,4 0,4 0,4 PROPANEDIOL 3 3 3 PEG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE SESQUISTEAR ATE 0,1 0,1 0,1 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0,3 0,3 0,3 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCC INATE 0,1 0,1 0,1 PHENOXYETHANOL 0,5 0,5 0,5 TREHALOSE 1 1 1 XANTHAN GUM 0,1 0,1 0,1 AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE 0,2 0,2 0,2 OCTYLDODECANOL 1 1 1 C15-19 ALKANE 1,5 1,5 1,5 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0,02 0,02 0,02 ALCOHOL DÉNATURÉ 2 2 2 POLYGLYCERYL-10 DIOLEATE 3,5 POLYGLYCERYL-5 (Mono- / Di- / Tri-) LAUR ATE 3,5 WATER 3,5 Ue (Tlh-TO) + IC 0,59 + 0,13 0,77 + 0,14 0,50 + 0,10 Ur (Tlh-TO) + IC 1,05 + 0,23 0,70 + 0,13 0,3 + 0,07 Ur / Ue (Tlh-TO) 1,78 0,90 0,60

[0141] Compared to the H / E serums of formulas Fl 1 and F12 (comparatives outside the scope of the invention), the H / E serum of formula F10 according to the invention exhibits both better skin extensibility (Ue) (immediate effect), better skin tone (Ur) and better skin elasticity (Ur / Ue), with in particular Ue> 0.45, Ur > 0.7 and Ur / Ue >1.3; which highlights an immediate “plunge-up” effect characteristic of formula F10 according to the invention.

[0142] Conclusion: The examples confirm the superior performance of skin extensibility (Ue) (immediate effect), skin tone (Ur), and skin elasticity (Ur / Ue) for the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, regardless of the type of composition, including aqueous or emulsion compositions. The compositions according to the invention are particularly well-suited for the manufacture of anti-aging products, such as the F7 skincare cream of Example 2 - Table 2, or the F10 serum of Example 3 - Table 3.

[0143] La formule F13 du tableau 4 suivant est un autre exemple de composition selon l’invention. Exemple 4: Emulsion de soin anti-âge

[0144] [Tableaux4] Ingrédients F13 invention GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE 1 PEG-40 STEARATE 1 ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 18,54 DIPENTAERYTHRITYL PENTAISONONANOATE 2,85 AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE / STE ARETH-25 METHACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER 0,7 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOY LDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER 0,4 GLYCERIN 15 BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-2 7,5 PHENOXYETHANOL 0,5 WATER / AQUA Qsp 100 SILICA 2,7 CELLULOSE 3 ALCOHOL DENAT. 3 POLYGLYCERYL-6 DICAPRATE 5

[0145] Ultimately, the use in a composition according to the invention of at least one fatty acid diester comprising 6 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerol comprising 5 to 12 glycerol units, combined with glycerin, makes it possible to significantly increase the three criteria of skin extensibility, tone, and elasticity, to such levels that an immediate plumping effect is perceptible on the skin after application. The cosmetic composition according to the invention thus provides a plumping effect and a bouncy appearance to the skin.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: between 5 and 40% by weight of glycerin, and between 0.1 and 9% by weight of at least one polyglycerol diester selected from fatty acid diesters comprising 6 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerol comprising 5 to 12 glycerol motifs, on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it further comprises at least one polyglycerol monoester, in particular selected from fatty acid monoesters comprising 6 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerol monoesters comprising 5 to 12 glycerol motifs, preferably the weight ratio of polyglycerol diester(s) to polyglycerol monoester(s) is greater than 1.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the diester is selected from fatty acid diesters comprising 10 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerol comprising 6 to 12 glycerol motifs, preferably 6 to 10 glycerol motifs, preferably the diester is selected from: fatty acid diesters comprising 10 carbon atoms and polyglycerol comprising 6 glycerol motifs, fatty acid diesters comprising 18 carbon atoms, preferably unsaturated, and polyglycerol comprising 10 glycerol motifs, and mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the diester is present in the composition at a content of 0.5 to 9%, preferably 1 to 8.5%, preferably 1 to 8%, preferably 1 to 7%, preferably 2 to 6%, preferably 2 to 5%, by weight of said diester, on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that glycerin is present in the composition in a content of 5.5 to 40%, preferably 6 to 35%, preferably 6.5 to 30%, preferably 7 to 30%, preferably 7.5 to 25% by weight, preferably 8 to 20%, preferably 9 to 15% by weight, preferably 10 to 15%, by weight of glycerin, on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant, preferably an ester other than said diester, preferably selected from polyol and saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acid esters having, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms and preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylated derivatives, in particular oxyethylated and / or oxypropylated; such as C8-C24 fatty acid glyceryl esters and their oxyalkylated derivatives; C8-C24 fatty acid polyethylene glycol esters and their oxyalkylated derivatives; C8-C24 fatty acid and sorbitan esters, or C8-C24 fatty acid sorbitol esters and their oxyalkylated derivatives; sugar esters, in particular of sucrose, glucose or alkylglucose, and of C8-C24 fatty acids, and their oxyalkylated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers;sugar ethers and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof;

7. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that it comprises at least one mixture of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol monostearate(s), preferably comprising 8 to 150 units of ethylene oxide, preferably 20 to 100, and preferably 40 to 100 units of ethylene oxide; preferably a mixture of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol monostearate comprising 40 EO and polyethylene glycol monostearate comprising 100 EO.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 6 or 7, characterized in that the surfactant content is in the range of 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said composition is substantially free of polyglycerol monoester.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an aqueous phase and / or an oily phase, preferably the composition is in the form of an emulsion of the type O / W, W / W, or O / W / W, preferably the composition is an O / W type emulsion.

11. A non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the treatment and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably the skin, comprising

12. the application to said keratinous materials of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 to increase skin tone and elasticity and / or provide a plumping effect and / or a bouncy appearance of the skin, in particular of the stratum comeum.