Cosmetic composition comprising sulfated anionic surfactants, conditioning agents and water in a particular concentration
A malleable paste composition with non-oxyalkylated sulfated anionic surfactants and conditioning agents addresses the challenges of conventional shampoos by enhancing handling, reducing water usage, and maintaining cosmetic benefits.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024008724
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-08-07
- Publication Date
- 2026-02-13
AI Technical Summary
Conventional liquid shampoos are difficult to measure and handle, prone to leakage, and require excessive water for use, especially in environments with limited water access, while solid and low-water shampoos may not dry properly and compromise cosmetic effects.
A cosmetic composition comprising non-oxyalkylated sulfated anionic surfactants, water in a specific range, and conditioning agents, formulated as a malleable paste with a high viscosity, allowing easy application and minimal water usage.
The composition provides good detergent power, quick foam generation, and excellent cosmetic properties like conditioning, while minimizing water usage and waste, and is easy to handle and dose.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising sulfated anionic surfactants, conditioning agents and water in a particular concentration
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising specific anionic surfactants, conditioning agents of the cationic polymer and / or silicone type, and water in a specific concentration. The invention also relates to a treatment method, particularly for washing, of keratinous materials, particularly hair, using said composition.
[0002] It is known to use liquid detergent hair compositions (or shampoos) for cleaning and / or washing hair. These compositions are based primarily on conventional surfactants, including anionic, non-ionic, and / or amphoteric surfactants, but generally anionic. These compositions are applied to wet hair, and the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands allows, after rinsing with water, the removal of various types of dirt initially present on the hair. Among the anionic surfactants that may be used, sulfated surfactants, such as alkyl sulfate or alkyl ether sulfate salts, are particularly noteworthy. These surfactants are known to generate abundant lather, making it easy to remove dirt by dispersing it in water, and resulting in a feeling of cleanliness.
[0003] Conventional shampoos are most often liquid, more or less thickened. However, their liquid texture can present several drawbacks, notably making them difficult to measure. Indeed, the more liquid they are, the more they tend to slip through the fingers, making them difficult to measure and resulting in waste. These products can also leak from their packaging, which can be inconvenient for the consumer when they come into contact with clothing or objects, for example, while traveling. Finally, the liquid form of shampoo is not always practical for the consumer, especially when using shampoo outside the home, for example, while traveling, hiking, or engaging in other outdoor activities.
[0004] The need for easily transportable shampoos is therefore tending to increase.
[0005] Solid shampoos in the form of a bar, similar to bars of soap, have been proposed; however, these compositions may sometimes remain, after use, in a humid or even wet environment, for example in a holder soap filled with water, at the bottom of the shower tray or on the edge of a bathtub, which can lead to difficulties in drying said bar and therefore delay its hardening, preferable for optimal subsequent use.
[0006] Shampoos in the form of a malleable paste, similar to toothpaste, have also been proposed, generally containing a very low water content, or even being completely anhydrous. These new formulations of so-called "solid" shampoos can, for the most part, still be improved. Indeed, in order to modify the texture of these products, it has been proposed, for example, to add thickeners, but the addition of such compounds can be detrimental to the cosmetic effects provided by the compositions.
[0007] Furthermore, the use of these thicker compositions may require a large amount of water, firstly to emulsify the shampoo and obtain adequate lather, and secondly during rinsing to remove the shampoo and dirt from the hair fibers. However, in many countries where access to water is limited, rinsing time, and consequently the amount of water needed to thoroughly rinse the product, are key indicators of a composition's performance.
[0008] In order to preserve natural resources, and in particular water, it is in the interest of proposing compositions which make it possible to reduce the amount of water needed, in particular when using the product, especially for rinsing, but also within the product itself, while maintaining the properties of use and the cosmetic properties associated with the products.
[0009] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products—that is, products whose design and development take environmental issues into account—is becoming a major concern in order to contribute to addressing global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions that can meet these environmental challenges. In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or those with a high naturalness index and / or of natural origin, especially plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical-derived compounds.
[0010] Thus, there is a real need to provide a cosmetic composition comprising a lower water content, exhibiting good detergent power with suitable usage properties, and conferring good cosmetic properties to the hair.
[0011] It was thus discovered that a composition such as defined below made it possible to achieve the objectives set out above.
[0012] The present invention relates in particular to a cosmetic composition comprising:
[0013] - one or more non-oxyalkylated sulfated anionic surfactants,
[0014] - water in a total content of between 20 and 40% by weight relative to the weight total composition, and
[0015] - one or more conditioning agents selected from cationic polymers, silicones, as well as their mixtures.
[0016] The composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of a paste, of semi-solid consistency; it can also be referred to as a pasty solid type composition.
[0017] Preferably, the composition is malleable; malleable means that the composition is advantageously in the form of a deformable or moldable paste under pressure, for example under the pressure of the user's fingers; this makes it easier to apply the composition to the hair.
[0018] This consistency makes it possible in particular to package the compositions according to the invention advantageously in tubes or even in pots.
[0019] Advantageously, when the composition is in the form of a preferably malleable solid paste, this makes it possible to obtain a composition that is easy to handle and dose, with easy application; it is possible to take only the desired and optimal amount for cleaning and caring for hair, and thus avoid waste.
[0020] The composition according to the invention has the advantage of dissolving rapidly upon contact with water and producing a good quality foam in an adequate quantity. The foam thus obtained rinses off quickly while minimizing the amount of unpleasant residue left on the keratin fibers. Furthermore, the foam obtained is particularly creamy.
[0021] In addition, the composition, after application, gives the hair good cosmetic properties, particularly in terms of conditioning, and especially suppleness, smooth feel, softness and detangling.
[0022] The compositions according to the invention can advantageously be characterized by their dynamic viscosity, at the shear rate of 0.1 s1.
[0023] The shear rate is also called in the literature the velocity gradient or shear rate.
[0024] Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention have a viscosity, measured at 25°C, 1 atm, for a shear rate of 0.1 s'1, greater than or equal to 200 Pa.s (200,000 mPa.s), in particular between 250 and 900 Pa.s (250,000 and 900,000 mPa.s), better between 300 and 800 Pa.s, even better between 350 and 700 Pa.s, preferably between 370 and 650 Pa.s, very preferably between 420 and 600 Pa.s, and even better between 450 and 550 Pa.s.
[0025] In the context of the invention, the viscosity is determined at 25°C, 1 atm (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) using an MCR-502 Anton-Paar® rotary rheometer, equipped with an air Peltier element to regulate the temperature (at 25°C). A flat-on-flat geometry (25 mm diameter, 5 µm sandblasted steel) was used with an air gap of 0.4 mm.
[0026] Flow curve: sweep in shear rate, between 0.01 to 1000 s1, on about 30 points, in steady state.
[0027] In this description, and unless otherwise indicated:
[0028] - the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for it;
[0029] - the expression "between" is equivalent to the expression "ranging from" and can be used there to be substituted, and implies that the limits are included;
[0030] - by "keratinous materials" means keratinous fibers, and in particular the hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, skin, nails, mucous membranes or scalp;
[0031] - "keratin fibers" in this application means the fibers human keratin and more specifically hair. Anionic surfactants
[0032] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-oxyalkylated anionic sulfate (or sulfated) surfactants.
[0033] The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.
[0034] In the present description, an entity is qualified as "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium, pH for example) and not comprising a cationic charge.
[0035] In a manner known per se, anionic surfactants may comprise sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) groups (or functions), alone or in mixture.
[0036] For the purposes of the present invention, anionic sulfate surfactant is understood to be an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3), but not comprising a carboxylate function, nor a sulfonate function.
[0037] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohols.
[0038] Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, and 2-amino 2- salts. methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)arnino methane.
[0039] Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are preferably used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.
[0040] The composition according to the invention therefore comprises one or more non-oxyalkylened sulfated anionic surfactants, i.e. not comprising alkylene oxide motifs, in particular not comprising ethylene oxide motifs, nor propylene oxide motifs.
[0041] Non-oxyalkylated sulfated anionic surfactants may be selected from, alone or in mixtures, alkyl sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; as well as salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms.
[0042] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more non-oxyalkylated anionic sulfate surfactants selected from, alone or in mixture, alkyl sulfates, in particular C6-C30, better C8-C24, even better C10-C20, or even C10-C16, and their salts; said salts being in particular selected from salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol, preferably of alkali or alkaline earth metals.
[0043] Better, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-oxyalkylened anionic sulfate surfactants selected from, alone or in mixture, alkali or alkaline earth metal salts of lauryl sulfate, such as sodium lauryl sulfate.
[0044] Advantageously, the total content of non-oxyalkylated sulfate anionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention can range from 10 to 55% by weight, preferably from 12 to 50% by weight, better from 25 to 45% by weight, preferably from 30 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0045] Better still, the total content of non-oxyalkylated sulfate anionic surfactants selected from, alone or in mixture, alkyl sulfates, in particular C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16, as well as their salts; said salts being in particular selected from the salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol, preferably of alkali or alkaline earth metals, in the composition according to the invention can range from 10 to 55% by weight, preferably from 12 to 50% by weight, better still from 25 to 45% by weight, preferably from 30 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0046] The composition according to the invention may further comprise, optionally, one or more oxyalkylated sulfate anionic surfactants, i.e. comprising one or more alkylene oxide motifs, in particular ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; preferably one or more ethylene oxide motifs only.
[0047] Advantageously, therefore, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-oxyalkylened anionic sulfate surfactants, and one or more oxyalkylened anionic sulfate surfactants.
[0048] Oxyalkylated sulfated anionic surfactants may be selected from, alone or in mixtures, alkyl ethersulfates, alkylamido ethersulfates, alkylaryl polyethersulfates, and their salts; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds being (poly)oxyalkylated, in particular (poly)oxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.
[0049] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more oxyalkylated sulfate anionic surfactants selected from, alone or in mixture, alkyl ether sulfates, in particular in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10-C20, or even in C10-C16, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, as well as their salts; said salts being in particular selected from the salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.
[0050] Advantageously, when present, the total content of oxyalkylated sulfate anionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 1 to 38% by weight, preferably from 1.5 to 36% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, this content can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better from 1 to 8% by weight, even better from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0051] Better still, the total content of anionic sulfate oxyalkylated surfactants selected from, alone or in mixture, alkyl ethersulfates, in particular C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16, as well as their salts; said salts being in particular selected from the salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol, preferably of alkali or alkaline earth metals, in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 1 to 38% by weight, preferably from 1.5 to 36% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, this content can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better from 1 to 8% by weight, even better from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0052] Advantageously, the composition may comprise:
[0053] - one or more anionic sulfate surfactants selected from, alone or in mixture, alkyl sulfates, particularly C6-C30, better C8-C24, even better C10-C20, or even C10-C16, as well as their salts; and
[0054] - one or more anionic sulfate surfactants selected from, alone or in mixture, alkyl ethersulfates, especially in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10-C20, or even in C10-C16, preferably comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, as well as their salts;
[0055] said salts being in particular chosen from among the salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.
[0056] Preferably in this case, the weight ratio between the total content of alkyl sulfate surfactants and the total content of alkyl ether sulfate surfactants is preferably greater than or equal to 1, better greater than or equal to 1.5, even better greater than or equal to 5, preferably greater than or equal to 10. Preferably, this weight ratio ranges from 1.5 to 30, better from 5 to 20, preferably from 10 to 15.
[0057] The composition according to the invention may also optionally include one or more anionic sulfonate surfactants.
[0058] It is understood in the present description that anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), and may optionally comprise in addition one or more sulfate and / or carboxylate functions.
[0059] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be selected from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, and in particular amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts. Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di-, and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di-, or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts, and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts. Alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts, are preferred.
[0060] The anionic sulfonate surfactants that may be used may be selected from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylethersulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, N-acyltaurates, alkylsulfolaurates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylisethionates; as well as salts of these compounds;
[0061] the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds being able to be polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.
[0062] Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are selected from, alone or in mixtures:
[0063] - C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, particularly C12-C20 olefinsulfonates,
[0064] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, particularly C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates.
[0065] - C6-C24 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;
[0066] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates,
[0067] - C6-C24 alkylsulfoacetates, particularly C12-C20,
[0068] in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.
[0069] Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixture, the (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably the (C12-C18)acylisethionates, in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.
[0070] Preferably, when present, the total content of anionic sulfonate surfactants in the composition according to the invention ranges from 3 to 20% by weight, better from 5 to 18% by weight, preferably from 8 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0071] Better, when present, the total content of anionic sulfonate surfactants selected from, alone or in mixture, the (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably the (C12-C18)acylisethionates, in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol, in the composition according to the invention, can range from 3 to 20% by weight, better from 5 to 18% by weight, preferably from 8 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0072] The composition according to the invention may optionally also include one or more anionic surfactants other than the sulfated and sulfonated surfactants described above. Preferably, this or these additional anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from among the carboxylate (or carboxylic) anionic surfactants.
[0073] It is understood in the present description that anionic carboxylate surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO), and may optionally further comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise a sulfonate function.
[0074] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be selected from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, and in particular amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts. Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di-, and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di-, or triisopropanolamine salts, and 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3- propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane. Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are preferred, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.
[0075] The anionic carboxylic surfactants that may be used may be selected from, alone or in mixture, acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylethercarboxylic acids, C6-30 alkyl(aryl)ethercarboxylic acids, alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkyl(amido)ethercarboxylic acids; as well as salts of these compounds;
[0076] the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds being able to be polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.
[0077] C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and their salts, can also be used.
[0078] Particular examples include polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those containing 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, and especially those of formula (1):
[0079] R1-(OC2H4)n-OCH2COOA (1)
[0080] in which:
[0081] - Ri represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a radical alkyl(C8-C9))phenyl, a radical R2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C2i alkyl or alkenyl radical; preferably Ri is a C8-C2o alkyl radical, preferably C8-C18, and aryl denotes preferably phenyl,
[0082] - n is an integer or decimal (average value) ranging from 2 to 24, from preference from 2 to 10,
[0083] - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine residue or triethanolamine.
[0084] Particularly preferred polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are those of formula (1) in which:
[0085] - Ri designates an alkyl radical in Ci2-Ci4, cocoyl, lauroyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl,
[0086] - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and
[0087] - n varies from 2 to 20, preferably 2 to 10.
[0088] Even more preferably, compounds of formula (1) are used in which Ri designates an alkyl radical in Ci2, A designates a hydrogen or sodium atom and n varies from 2 to 10.
[0089] Preferably, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixtures:
[0090] - acylglutamates, particularly in C6-C24, or even in Ci2-C2o, such as stearoylglutamates and cocoyl glutamates, and in particular disodium cocoyl glutamate and disodium stearoylglutamate;
[0091] - acylsarcosinates, particularly in C6-C24, or even in C12-C20, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, lauroylsarcosinates, cocoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate;
[0092] - acyllactylates, particularly in the C12-C28 or even C14-C24 range, such as behenoyl lactylates and lauroyl lactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyl lactylate and sodium lauroyl lactylate;
[0093] - C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular C12-C20;
[0094] - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, and in particular alkyl(C12-C20) ethercarboxylates;
[0095] - polyoxyalkylened alkyl(C6-C24)(amido)ether carboxylic acids, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;
[0096] in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.
[0097] Advantageously, the total content of anionic surfactants (including sulfates, and any additional surfactants in particular sulfonates and carboxylates) in the composition according to the invention, ranges from 35 to 65% by weight, better from 38 to 60% by weight, even better from 40 to 58% by weight, preferably from 42 to 55% by weight, even more preferably from 45 to 53% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants
[0098] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
[0099] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) may in particular be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, possibly quatemized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
[0100] Among the secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, possibly quantified and usable, as defined above, we may also mention the compounds with the following respective formulas (3) and (4):
[0101] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO, M+, X (3)
[0102] in which:
[0103] - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
[0104] - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and
[0105] - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;
[0106] - M+ represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such that sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine, and
[0107] - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as the one chosen among the halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent;
[0108] Ra -CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (4)
[0109] in which:
[0110] - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX';
[0111] - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2;
[0112] - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2- COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;
[0113] - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z' ;
[0114] - Z' represents a cationic counterion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as that sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
[0115] - Ra- represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in the C10 to C30 position of an acid Ra-COOH of preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially in Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group.
[0116] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.
[0117] As an example, we can cite cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.
[0118] Compounds of formula (5) can also be used:
[0119] Ra-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (5)
[0120] in which:
[0121] - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z”;
[0122] - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent an alkyl radical or hydroxyalkyl in C1 to C4;
[0123] - Z” represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine;
[0124] - R, represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra—COOH of preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil;
[0125] - n and n', independently of each other, denotes an integer from 1 to 3.
[0126] Among the compounds of formula (5) we can mention the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.
[0127] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) may also be selected in particular from, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and alkyl(C8-C20)-amidoalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines.
[0128] Preferably, when present, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, compounds of formula (3), compounds of formula (4) as defined above.
[0129] Preferably the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from among the alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines such as cocobetaine, the alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
[0130] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, preferably one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants selected from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
[0131] When present, the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) may preferably range from 1 to 18% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, better from 4 to 13% by weight, even better from 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0132] When present, the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) selected from, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, the alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, can preferably range from 1 to 18% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, better from 4 to 13% by weight, even better from 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Conditioning agents
[0133] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more conditioning agents, selected from cationic polymers, silicones, and mixtures thereof. Thus, the composition may comprise one or more cationic polymers only; or one or more silicones only; or one or more cationic polymers and one or more silicones.
[0134] Preferably, it comprises one or more cationic polymers, and may further comprise one or more silicones.
[0135] The term "cationic polymer" means any polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups, and not containing anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
[0136] Cationic polymers are non-siliconized (not containing silicon atoms).
[0137] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a cationic charge density less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents / gram (meq / g), preferably less than or equal to 4 meq / g. The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charge per unit mass of polymer under conditions where the polymer is fully ionized. It can be determined by calculation if the polymer structure is known, that is, the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar or weight proportions. It can also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.
[0138] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight average molar mass (Mw) between approximately 500 and 5.106, preferably between approximately 103 and 3.106.
[0139] Among the cationic polymers that may be used, the following polymers may be mentioned, alone or in mixtures:
[0140] (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic esters or amides or methacrylics and containing at least one of the following formula motifs: NH 1 A R,—-N— * I - R: —CHC — __CH.-. C - — CHj— C— OC O=c OC III O o NH II ¥ । AA' A NR—N+ —n r^ Xri r5 nf H
[0141] in which:
[0142] - R3, identical or different, designates a hydrogen atony or a CH3 radical;
[0143] - A, identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
[0144] - R4, R5, R6, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0145] - RI and R2, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group alkyl having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;
[0146] - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as an anion methosulfate or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
[0147] The copolymers of family (1) may further contain one or more motifs derived from comonomers that may be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4), esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.
[0148] Among these copolymers of family (1), we can mention:
[0149] - copolymers of acrylamide and quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES,
[0150] - acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyl chloride copolymers trimethylammonium, such as those sold under the name BINA QU AT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY,
[0151] - acrylamide and methacryloyloxyeth methosulfate copolymer yltrimethylammonium, such as that sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES,
[0152] - vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate or dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate copolymers, quantified or not, such as products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP such as "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" or products named "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937";
[0153] - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / terpolymers vinylpyrrolidone, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,
[0154] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those marketed under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP;
[0155] - vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers quantified products, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP,
[0156] - polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl(Cl-C4) salts trialkyl(Cl-C4)ammonium such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bisacrylamide. A crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) can be used in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by CIBA. Alternatively, a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride comprising about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can be used.These dispersions are marketed under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company CIBA.
[0157] (2) cationic polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and gums of cationic galactomannans.
[0158] Among cationic polysaccharides, particular examples include cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and cationic galactomannan gums.
[0159] Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR1492597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.
[0160] Examples include polymers marketed under the name "UCARE POLYMER JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the AMERCHOL Company.
[0161] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described, in particular, in US patent 4131576; examples include hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted, in particular, with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium. Quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses, crosslinked or not, are particularly noteworthy, the quaternizing agent being, in particular, diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and hydroxyethylcellulose hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium is especially noteworthy.
[0162] Among the commercial products meeting this definition, we can cite the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.
[0163] As a particularly preferred cationic cellulose, one can notably mention the polymer with INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-10.
[0164] Cationic galactomannan gums are described in particular in US patents 3589578 and 4031307; examples include cationic guar gums, especially those containing trialkylammonium cationic groups, particularly trimethylammonium. Examples include guar gums modified with a salt (for example, a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium.
[0165] Preferably, 2 to 30% by number of the hydroxyl groups of the guar gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups. Even more preferably, 5 to 20% of the hydroxyl groups of these guar gums are branched by trialkylammonium cationic groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups are particularly noteworthy. Even more preferably, these groups represent 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride can be used.
[0166] Examples include products with the INCI names "HYDRXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE" and "GUAR HYDROXYPROPYL-TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE". Such products are marketed, in particular, under the names JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company Solvay.
[0167] Among the cationic polysaccharides that could be used, cationic derivatives of cassia gum can also be mentioned, in particular those containing quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, we can mention the product with the INCI name "CASSIA HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE".
[0168] (3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl motifs and alkylene divalent radicals or linear or branched hydroxyalkylene chains, possibly interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.
[0169] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide or by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a reactive bifunctional compound with respect to a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyaminoamide; These polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized.
[0170] (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkoylenes Polyamines are derived from polycarboxylic acids followed by alkoxylation with bifunctional agents. An example is the adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalcoyldialoylene triamine polymer, in which the alkyl group has 1 to 4 carbon atoms and is preferably methyl, ethyl, or propyl. Among these derivatives, the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4, or F8" by Sandoz are particularly noteworthy.
[0171] (6) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being made to react with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably being between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are in particular marketed under the name "Hercosett 57" by Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer.
[0172] (7) Alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers having as the main chain constituent motifs corresponding to formulas (I) or (II):
[0173]
[0174]
[0175]
[0176]
[0177]
[0178]
[0179]
[0180]
[0181] in which - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; - R12 designates a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; - RIO and RI 1, independently of each other, designate a C1-C6 alkyl group, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a Cl-C4 amidoalkyl group; or RIO and RI 1 may designate together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; RIO and RI 1, independently of each other, preferably designate a C1-C4 alkyl group; - Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. We can cite in particular the homopolymer of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-6) for example sold under the name "MERQUAT 100" by the company NALCO, and the copolymers of salts (for example chloride) of diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-7), marketed in particular under the name "MERQUAT 550" or "MERQUAT 7SPR". (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring motifs of formula: R- FU- ir —n+-a<-n+-bi— om R„ x ' R 16 X ' in which: - R13, R14, R15 and R16, whether identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic radicals comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms or hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals in Cl-Cl2,
[0182] or R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, together with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, form heterocycles possibly comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen
[0183] or R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
[0184] - Al and B1 represent polymethylene divalent groups comprising of 2 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, bonded to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen, sulfur, or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
[0185] - X designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
[0186] it being understood that Al, R13 and R15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring;
[0187] Furthermore, if Al designates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also designate a (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p- group, with n and p, identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D designating:
[0188] a) a glycol remnant of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: -(CH2CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
[0189] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;
[0190] c) a bis-primary diamine remnant of formula -NH-Y-NH- where Y denotes a radical linear or branched hydrocarbon, or the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-;
[0191] d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.
[0192] Preferably, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100000.
[0193] One can cite in particular polymers which are made up of recurring motifs conforming to the formula: Rx R. ar; N (CHA-N-(CH, L— Wï IVI x R? x R.,
[0194] in which RI, R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
[0195] A particularly preferred compound is that for which RI, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical, n=3, p=6 and X = Cl, named Hexadimethrine chloride according to INCI nomenclature (CTFA).
[0196] (9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising motifs of formula: ^18 — N+ - ( CH A - NH - CO - (CH,) - CO - NH (CK), - N+ - A — X- I q I (V) HAS-
[0197] in which:
[0198] - R18, R19, R20 and R21, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
[0199] - r and s, whether identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
[0200] - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
[0201] - X- denotes an anion such as a halide,
[0202] - A denotes a divalent radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH2- CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.
[0203] Examples include the products "Mirapol® A 15", "Mirapol® ADI", "Mirapol® AZ1" and "Mirapol® 175" sold by the company Miranol.
[0204] (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole such as for example, products marketed under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by BASF
[0205] (11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by COGNIS, referenced under the name "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.
[0206] (12) polymers comprising in their structure:
[0207] (a) one or more motifs corresponding to the following formula (A): —CH—CH — I NH2
[0208] (b) optionally one or more motifs corresponding to the following formula (B): —CH2—CH — (B) NH —CH II O
[0209] In other words, these polymers can be chosen in particular from homo- or copolymers comprising one or more motifs derived from vinylamine and possibly one or more motifs derived from vinylformamide.
[0210] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, 5 to 100% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 95% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (B), preferably 10 to 100% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 90% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (B).
[0211] These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can be carried out in acidic or basic media.
[0212] The average molecular mass by weight of said polymer, measured by light diffraction, can vary from 1000 to 3,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g / mol.
[0213] Polymers comprising motifs of formula (A) and possibly motifs of formula (B) are notably sold under the name LUPAMIN by BASF, such as, for example, and without limitation, the products offered under the name LUPAMIN 9095, LUPAMIN 5095, LUPAMIN 1095, LUPAMIN 9030 (or LUVIQUAT 9030) and LUPAMIN 9010.
[0214] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic polymers selected from, alone or in mixture:
[0215] - polymers of family (7) and in particular homopolymers or copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (e.g. chloride), including copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (e.g. chloride) and acrylamide such as POLYQUATERNIUM-7;
[0216] - cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses such as that POLYQUATERNIUM-10, and cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gums.
[0217] Better, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic polysaccharides, in particular selected from cationic celluloses such as POLYQUATERNIUM-10, and cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gums; better cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gums.
[0218] When it comprises one or more cationic polymers as a conditioning agent, the composition according to the invention may comprise the polymer(s) cationics in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better from 0.1 to 4% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 3% by weight, or even from 1 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0219] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polymer(s) selected from the polymers of family (7) and the cationic polysaccharides, in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better from 0.1 to 4% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 3% by weight, or even from 1 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0220] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polymer(s) selected from cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gums, in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better from 0.1 to 4% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 3% by weight, or even from 0.7 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0221] The composition according to the invention may also include, as a conditioning agent, one or more silicones, which may in particular be selected from amino silicones, non-amino silicones, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, it comprises one or more silicones.
[0222] The composition according to the invention may therefore comprise one or more non-amine silicones, which may be solid or liquid (at 25°C, 1 atm), volatile or non-volatile. Preferably, the non-amine silicones are selected from among non-volatile liquid silicones.
[0223] The non-amine silicones that may be used may be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention; they may be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils and gums are preferred.
[0224] Silicones are described in detail in particular in Walter NOLL's book "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press.
[0225] Volatile silicones may be selected from those having a boiling point between 60 and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure 1 atm), in particular from:
[0226] i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably 4 to 5, such as
[0227] - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5). Examples include products marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHODIA.
[0228] - dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type cyclocopolymers with structure chemical: ।— D — D!----------D — D'--1 CH- 1 CH- 1 / 1' with D: $ with D': If O CH3 Ce.
[0229] One example is "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.
[0230] - mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds silicon derivatives, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;
[0231] ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10 6m2 / s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.
[0232] Other silicones falling within this class are described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics"; one can cite the product marketed under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE.
[0233] Among non-volatile silicones, one can cite, alone or in mixture, polydialkylsiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS or dimethicone), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, as well as non-amino organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes having in their structure one or more non-amino organofunctional groups, generally fixed by means of a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated groups.
[0234] Organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly selected from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.
[0235] Among organomodified silicones, organopolysiloxanes comprising:
[0236] - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups comprising possibly alkyl groups in C6-C24 such as dimethicone- copolyols, and in particular those marketed by DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or the SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 oils from UNION CARBIDE; or alkyl(Ci2)-methicone-copolyols, and in particular those marketed by DOW CORNING under the name Q2-5200;
[0237] - thiol groups, such as products marketed under the names “GP 72 A” and “GP 71” from GENESEE;
[0238] - alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by GOLDSCHMIDT;
[0239] - hydroxylated groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with functional hydroxyalkyl;
[0240] - acyloxyalkyl groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in the US patent-A-4957732.
[0241] - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, such as for example described in EPI86507, or of the alkyl-carboxylic type such as the product X-22-3701E from the company SHIN-ETSU; or of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL® S201" and "ABIL® S255".
[0242] Silicones can also be selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, the principal examples of which are polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups (CTFA: dimethicone). Examples of these polydialkylsiloxanes include the following commercial products:
[0243] - SILBIONE® oils from series 47 and 70 047 or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000;
[0244] - the MIRASIL® series oils marketed by the RHODIA company;
[0245] - oils in the 200 series from DOW CORNING such as DC200 having viscosity 60,000 mm2 / s;
[0246] - VISCASIL® oils from MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS.
[0247] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal dimethylsilanol groups (CTFA: dimethiconol) such as the oils of the 48 series of the RHODIA company.
[0248] In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, we can also mention the products marketed under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes.
[0249] Products more particularly usable according to the invention are mixtures such as:
[0250] - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end of chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such as the product Q2-1401 marketed by the DOW CORNING company.
[0251] Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging from 1.105 to 5.10 2m2 / s at 25°C.
[0252] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, we can mention the products marketed under the following names:
[0253] - SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series of RHODIA;
[0254] - the oils of the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA;
[0255] - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;
[0256] - BAYER's PK series silicones such as product PK20;
[0257] - silicones from the PN, PH series of BAYER such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products;
[0258] - certain oils from the SF series of MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.
[0259] The non-amine silicones most particularly preferred according to the invention are the trimethylsiloxanes with terminal groups (CTFA: dimethicone).
[0260] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more amino silicones.
[0261] Aminated silicone means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or one quaternary ammonium group.
[0262] The amino silicones that can be used according to the present invention may be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity ranging from 5*106 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, for example from 1*105 to 1 m2 / s. Preferably, the additional amino silicones are chosen from among the non-volatile liquid silicones (25°C, 1 atm).
[0263] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixtures, the following compounds:
[0264] A) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (la):
[0265] in which x' and y' are integers such that the average molecular mass by weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 g / mol;
[0266] B) Amino silicones conforming to formula (lia):
[0267] R'aG3a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2b)mO-SiG3a-R'a (Ha)
[0268] in which:
[0269] - G, identical or different, designates a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, alkyl in C1-C8, for example methyl or alkoxy in C1-C8, for example methoxy, - a, a' identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a or a' is equal to zero,
[0270] - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,
[0271] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, where n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149, and m can represent a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and
[0272] - R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in where q is a number from 2 to 8, and L is an amine group, possibly quatemized, chosen from the groups: -NR”-QN(R”)2, -N(R”)2, -N+(R”)3 A, -N+H(R”)2 A, -N+H2(R”) A, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)H2 A, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)2H A and -NR”-Q-N+(R”)3 A, in which R”, identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a CrC2o alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
[0273] Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (lia) may be selected from:
[0274] (i) the "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" silicones conforming to formula (III):
[0275] in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better from 50 to 150; n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.
[0276] (ii) silicones of the following formula (IV):
[0277] in which:
[0278] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n denoting a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; and
[0279] - Rb R2, R3, identical or different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in Ci -C4, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 designating an alkoxy radical.
[0280] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
[0281] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.
[0282] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g / mol, more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g / mol.
[0283] (iii) silicones of the following formula (V):
[0284] in which:
[0285] - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p denoting a number from 0 to 999, and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; and
[0286] - Ri, R2, different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in C1-C4, one at minus the Ri or R2 radicals designating an alkoxy radical.
[0287] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
[0288] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.
[0289] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably from 2000 to 200000 g / mol, more preferably from 5000 to 100000 g / mol and in particular from 10000 to 50000 g / mol.
[0290] Commercial products containing structural (IV) or (V) silicones may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones with a structure different from the (IV) or (V) formulas. A product containing structural (IV) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652. A product containing structural (V) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing structural (XIV) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.
[0291] When these amino silicones are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use as an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any type, but preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The average number size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, especially as amino silicones of formula (V), microemulsions are used with an average particle size ranging from 5 nm to 60 nm (inclusive), and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm. nm (including terminals). Thus, according to the invention, the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (V) offered under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company WACKER can be used.
[0292] (iv) silicones of the following formula (VI): L (VI)
[0293] in which:
[0294] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in a particular number from 50 to 150, where n represents a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149, and m represents a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and
[0295] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.
[0296] The average molecular weight (Mw) of these amine-based silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200,000 g / mol. A silicone meeting this specification is, for example, DOW CORNING's XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION.
[0297] (v) silicones of the following formula (VII):
[0298] in which:
[0299] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in a particular number from 50 to 150, where n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149, and m can represent a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and
[0300] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.
[0301] The average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000 g / mol. A silicone meeting this specification is, for example, DOW CORNING's DC2-8566 Amino Fluid.
[0302] C) Amino silicones conforming to formula (VIII):
[0303] in which:
[0304] - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 atoms of carbon, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, or alkenyl in C2-Ci8, for example methyl;
[0305] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in C1-C18 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in CrCi8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond;
[0306] - Q is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an acid salt organic, in particular acetate;
[0307] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8;
[0308] and - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.
[0309] D) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX) (IX)
[0310] in which:
[0311] - R7, identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8 or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;
[0312] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in C1-C18 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in Ci-Ci8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond;
[0313] - R8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a radical monovalent hydrocarbon having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8, a -R6-NHCOR7 radical;
[0314] - X is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an acid salt organic, in particular acetate; and
[0315] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100. These silicones are described for example in application EP-A-0530974; in particular, the silicone with INCI name QUATERNIUM 80 can be mentioned.
[0316] Silicones falling within this class are the silicones marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names AB IL QU AT 3270, AB IL QU AT 3272, ABIL QUAT 3474.
[0317] E) Amino silicones of formula (X): (X)
[0318] in which:
[0319] - Ri, R2, Ri and R4, whether identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,
[0320] - R5 designates an alkyl radical in CrC4 or a hydroxyl group,
[0321] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,
[0322] - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and
[0323] - x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g;
[0324] F) multiblock polyoxyalkylened amine silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylened block comprising at least one amine group.
[0325] Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units of the following general formulas:
[0326] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N(H)-R-] or else
[0327] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-] in which:
[0328] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably from 5 to 200, plus particularly ranging from 10 to 100;
[0329] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably from 4 to 100, plus particularly between 5 and 30;
[0330] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000;
[0331] - R” is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;
[0332] - R, identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2-Ci2 , linear or branched, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R denote a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; and
[0333] - R', identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2 -Ci2, linear or branched, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R', identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R' denote -CH(CH3)-CH2-.
[0334] The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95% by moles of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85% by moles.
[0335] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.
[0336] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000 g / mol, more particularly between 10000 and 200000 g / mol. Examples include silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.
[0337] G) Amino silicones of formulas (XI) and (XII): (XI)
[0338] in which:
[0339] - R, R' and R”, identical or different, designate an alkyl group in C1-C4 or a hydroxyl group,
[0340] - A denotes a C3 alkylene radical; and
[0341] - m and n are numbers such that the average molecular mass in weight of the The compound value is between 5000 and 500000.
[0342] in which:
[0343] - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably x ranges from 10 to 2000, and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably from 1 to 100;
[0344] - Ri and R2, identical or different, preferably identical, designate a group alkyl, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and
[0345] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0346] Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched. We can mention in particular the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-.
[0347] Preferably, Ri and R2 are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; examples include dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl; and preferably, Ri and R2, identical or different, are chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.
[0348] Preferably, in the silicone of formula (XII), there is:
[0349] - x ranging from 10 to 2,000, and in particular from 100 to 1,000;
[0350] - ranging from 1 to 100;
[0351] - A comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular 4 carbon atoms; Preferably, A is branched; and more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and
[0352] - Ri and R2 being independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen especially from the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferably, Ri and R2, identical or different, being chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.
[0353] A preferred silicone of formula (XII) is bis-cetearylamodimethicone. An example is the amino silicone sold under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive.
[0354] H) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, comprising primary amine groups at one end of the chain or on the side chains, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI): —Si—i—O - Si o — S io & —: * ' Ô O * “If — “If — (XVI)
[0355] In formula (XIV), the values of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 1000 and 55000. Examples of formula (XIV) amino silicones include products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by Gelest and KF-8015 by Shin Etsu.
[0356] In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 500 and 3000.
[0357] As an example of formula (XV) amine silicones, we can cite the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.
[0358] In formula (XVI), the values of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 500 and 50000.
[0359] Examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI) include aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by Dow Corning.
[0360] The composition according to the invention may also comprise, as silicone, an amino silicone corresponding to the formula (XVIII) below: -, (XVIH) ] HO. / \ XOH I """X ] HO™™' X^OH
[0361] in which:
[0362] - n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better still between 25 and 100, even better between 50 and 80;
[0363] - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better between 1 and 10, and even better, between 1 and 5;
[0364] - R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, having from 1 to 6 atoms of carbon, specifically 2 to 5 carbon atoms;
[0365] - R' ' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, having from 1 to 6 atoms of carbon, specifically from 1 to 5 carbon atoms; and
[0366] - R'”, identical or different, preferably identical, are alkyl radicals linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; said radicals may optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups OH.
[0367] Preferably, R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, preferably branched, comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 5 carbon atoms; in particular a -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- radical.
[0368] Preferably, R' ' is a linear alkylene divalent radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 4 carbon atoms; in particular a -CH2-CH2- radical.
[0369] Preferably, the R'', identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; in particular, dodecyl, C13, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl radicals may be mentioned; preferably the R'', identical or different, are chosen from among the saturated linear alkyl radicals having 12 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular C13, C14, Cl5, alone or in mixture, and preferably represent a mixture of C13, C14 and C15. Preferably, the R'' are identical.
[0370] Preferably, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which:
[0371] - n is a number between 50 and 80;
[0372] - m is a number between 1 and 5;
[0373] - R'”, identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 12 to 18 carbon atoms;
[0374] - R' is a divalent alkylene radical having 2 to 5 carbon atoms,
[0375] - R” is a linear alkylene divalent radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
[0376] Even better, the composition may include one or more formula silicones (XVIII) in which:
[0377] - n is a number between 50 and 80;
[0378] - m is a number between 1 and 5;
[0379] - R'”, identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 13 to 15 carbon atoms;
[0380] - R' is a radical -(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)-, and
[0381] - R” is a radical -(CH2)2-.
[0382] A particularly preferred silicone of formula (XVIII) is Bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (INCI name). One example is the silicone marketed by DOW under the name "DOWSIL 8500 Conditioning agent".
[0383] When comprising one or more silicones, preferably the composition according to the invention comprises one or more silicones selected from, alone or in mixtures, non-volatile liquid non-amino silicones, and in particular polydialkylsiloxanes and more particularly polydimethylsiloxanes, especially polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups; and / or non-volatile liquid amino silicones, such as amodimethicones; as well as mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amodimethicones.
[0384] When it includes one or more silicones as a conditioning agent, the composition according to the invention may include the silicone(s) in a total content of 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.5 to 8% by weight, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0385] Better, the composition according to the invention comprises the silicone(s) selected from, alone or in mixture, non-volatile liquid non-amino silicones, and in particular polydialkylsiloxanes and more particularly polydimethylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups; and / or non-volatile liquid amino silicones, such as amodimethicones; in a total content of 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.5 to 8% by weight, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0386] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises the conditioning agent(s) selected from cationic polymers and silicones, in a total content of between 0.5 and 12% by weight, better between 1.5 and 10% by weight, even better between 2 and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Thickening agents
[0387] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more thickening agents, in particular selected from organic thickening agents, mineral thickening agents and mixtures thereof.
[0388] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more thickening agents, preferably one or more mineral thickening agents.
[0389] The thickening agent(s) may in particular be aqueous phase thickeners (or hydrophilic thickener).
[0390] By "thickener" or "aqueous phase thickener" is meant a compound which increases the viscosity of the aqueous phase into which it is introduced at a concentration of 0.05% by weight by at least 20 cps (20 mPa·s), preferably by at least 50 cps (50 mPa·s), the viscosity being measured at 25°C, 1 atm, at a rate of shear of 1s 1 (viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, Haake R600 rheometer or similar).
[0391] The thickening agent is different from the surfactants and cationic polymers described above. The thickening agent is also non-siliconized.
[0392] The thickening agents according to the invention may be polymeric or non-polymeric; they may be anionic, amphoteric or non-ionic, associative or non-associative. They may be organic or mineral. Advantageously, they are mineral.
[0393] Preferably, the thickening agent(s) may be chosen from, alone or in mixture, clays; thickening polysaccharides, associative or non-associative, in particular non-ionic; thickening acrylic polymers, in particular anionic or non-ionic; associative polymers.
[0394] Clays are well-known products, which are described for example in the work "Mineralogy of clays, S. Caillère, S. Hénin, M. Rautureau, 2nd edition 1982, Masson".
[0395] Clays are (alumino)silicates containing a cation that can be selected from the cations of calcium, magnesium, aluminium, sodium, potassium, lithium and mixtures thereof.
[0396] By way of clays, one can cite clays, possibly modified, belonging to the following families, alone or in mixtures:
[0397] - the kaolinite family such as kaolin, nacrites, halloysites, antigorites, berthierines or dickites,
[0398] - the smectite and montmorillonite family, such as bentonites, hectorites (including laponite), saponites, nontronites, beidelites, stevensites;
[0399] - the illite, vermiculite and chlorite families, such as donbassites;
[0400] - the family of fibrous clays, such as sepiolites, attapulgites and paligorskites, and the talc family.
[0401] Preferably, one or more clays selected from the family of kaolinites, montmorillonites and / or smectites may be used, these clays being preferably unmodified; and in particular selected from kaolin, saponites, laponites, bentonites, hectorites and stevensites, as well as mixtures thereof; preferably kaolin.
[0402] Clays can be of natural or synthetic origin (derived from synthesis). Preferably, the clays used in the composition of the invention are natural clays.
[0403] Clays can be chemically modified by various compounds, such as acrylic acids, polysaccharides (e.g. carboxymethylcellulose) or organic cations for example by compounds chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amino soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
[0404] In the context of the present invention, it is preferable to use clays which are cosmetically compatible and acceptable for keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers.
[0405] Clay mixtures can be used to advantage.
[0406] Preferably, the clay is an unmodified clay.
[0407] Unmodified clay means a natural or synthetic clay that has not undergone any modification whatsoever. For example, when an unmodified clay suitable for the invention is an unmodified hectorite, this is distinct from hectorites modified by a C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.
[0408] Modified clay means sheet silicates whose lipophilicity has been increased, for example by ion exchange reactions with quaternary ammonium salts, preferably quaternary ammonium chlorides.
[0409] Examples of natural clays include green clays, particularly those rich in illite; clays rich in montmorillonite, known as fuller's earth; bentonites; and white clays rich in kaolinite. Examples of bentonites include those sold by Elementis under the names "Bentone 38 VCG", "Bentone Gel CAO V", "Bentone 27 V", and "Bentone Gel MIO V".
[0410] Montmorillonites and smectites are hydrated aluminum and / or magnesium silicates. Examples include montmorillonite sold as "Gel White H" by Rockwood Additives and purified smectite sold as "Veegum Granules" by Vanderbilt. Other examples include montmorillonite sold as Kunipia G4 by Kunimine and sepiolite Pangel S9 sold by Toisa.
[0411] Examples of kaolinites include kaolins sold under the names Coslin C 100 by BASF or Kaolin Suprême by Imerys.
[0412] Talcs are hydrated magnesium silicates generally comprising aluminum silicate. The crystalline structure of talc consists of repeated layers of a brucite sandwich between layers of silica. Examples include micronized magnesium silicate with a particle size of 5 microns, sold under the name Micro Ace P3 by Nippon Talc, or talcs sold under the names Rose Talc and Talc SG-2000 by Nippon Talc, J 68 BC by US Cosmetics (Miyoshi), Luzenac 00 and Luzenac Pharma M by Luzenac, and Talc JA-46R by Asada Milling.
[0413] One can cite, as an example of saponite, which belongs to the montmorillonite family, synthetic saponite, in particular that sold by Kunimine under the name Sumecton
[0414] One can cite, as an example of synthetic laponite, LAPONITE XLG, sold by Rockwood.
[0415] The thickening agent may also be chosen from thickening polysaccharides, preferably non-ionic, associative or non-associative, preferably non-associative.
[0416] In the context of the invention, polysaccharides are also referred to as sugar-resource polymers. For the purposes of this invention, a "sugar resource" is defined as an oxygenated hydrocarbon compound possessing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. The sugar resources may optionally be modified by substitution, oxidation, and / or dehydration. The sugar resources of nonionic polysaccharides are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, and fructose.
[0417] Among the thickening polysaccharides that can be used in the composition according to the invention, native gums such as: a) tree or shrub exudates such as gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid), ghatti gum (polymer of arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid), karaya gum (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid), tragacanth (or tragacanth) gum (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); b) gums derived from algae such as agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); carrageenans and furcelleranes (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate);
[0418] c) gums from seeds or tubers such as guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose);
[0419] d) microbial gums such as xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); scleroglucan gum (polymer of glucose);
[0420] e) plant extracts such as cellulose (glucose polymer), starch (glucose polymer) and inulin.
[0421] These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. Physical treatment includes temperature. Chemical treatments include esterification, etherification, amidation, and oxidation reactions. These treatments lead to polymers that can be, in particular, nonionic, anionic, or amphoteric. Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gum, locust bean gum, starches, and celluloses.
[0422] The non-ionic guar gums usable according to the invention can be modified by (poly)hydroxylakyl groups in Ci-C6.
[0423] Among the (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups in Ci-C6, we can mention by way of example, the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
[0424] These guar gums are well known from the prior art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides such as, for example, propylene oxides with guar gum in order to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.
[0425] The degree of hydroxyalkylation varies preferably from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.
[0426] Such non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP120 by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.
[0427] The starch molecules usable in the present invention may have cereals or tubers as their botanical origin. Thus, the starches are, for example, chosen from corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, and pea starches.
[0428] Starches can be modified by chemical or physical means: in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidification, heat treatments.
[0429] Preferably, distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate are used, such as the product offered under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the AVEBE Company or STRUCTURE ZEA of NATIONAL STARCH (gelatinized maize distarch phosphate).
[0430] Amphoteric starches can also be used as a thickening agent; these amphoteric starches comprise one or more anionic groups and one or Several cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be bonded to the same reactive site on the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; preferably they are bonded to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be carboxylic, phosphate, or sulfate, and preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amines.
[0431] Starch molecules can be derived from all plant starch sources, including maize, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley, or wheat. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above can also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potato.
[0432] As thickening agents according to the invention, we can also mention cellulosic polymers not having a Cio-C3o fatty chain in their structure.
[0433] By "cellulosic" polymer is meant any polysaccharide compound having in its structure chains of glucose residues joined by [3-1,4] bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose derivatives other than the polymers described below may be anionic, amphoteric or non-ionic.
[0434] Thus, the cellulosic polymers usable according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses including in microcrystalline form and cellulose ethers.
[0435] Among these cellulosic polymers, we distinguish cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.
[0436] Among cellulose esters are inorganic cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, or phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates, or acetatetrimellitates, for example), and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters such as cellulose acetatebutyrates and acetatepropionate sulfates. Examples of cellulose ether esters include hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.
[0437] Among non-ionic cellulose ethers without a fat chain in Ci0-C30 i.e., "non-associative," examples include (Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (e.g., Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (e.g., Natrosol 250 HHR from Aqualon), and hydroxypropylcelluloses (e.g., Klucel EF from Aqualon); and mixed (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl-(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl methylcelluloses (e.g., Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethyl methylcelluloses, and hydroxyethyl-ethylcelluloses (e.g. Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutyl-methylcelluloses.
[0438] Among the anionic cellulose ethers without a fat chain, we can mention (poly)carboxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, we can mention carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company AQUALON) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and their sodium salts.
[0439] As examples of thickening polysaccharides that can be used in the invention, associative thickening polysaccharides may also be mentioned.
[0440] It is recalled that "associative polymers" are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules. Their chemical structure includes, more particularly, at least one hydrophilic region and at least one hydrophobic region.
[0441] By "hydrophobic group" is meant a hydrocarbon chain radical or polymer, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0442] Preferably, the hydrocarbon group is derived from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, or decyl alcohol. It may also refer to a hydrocarbon polymer such as, for example, polybutadiene.
[0443] The associative polysaccharides usable according to the invention can be chosen from among non-ionic associative polysaccharides, preferably from among non-ionic associative celluloses and non-ionic associative galactomannan gums.
[0444] Preferably, the associative polysaccharides are chosen from:
[0445] (1) celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one chain fat; preferably from:
[0446] - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least a fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably at C8 to C22, such as cetylhydroxyethyl cellulose marketed in particular under the reference NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (alkyls in Cl6) sold by the Ashland company, or the product Polysurf 67CS sold by the Ashland company, - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by polyalkylene glycol alkyl phenol ether groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenol ether) sold by the AMERCHOL company,
[0447] - and their mixtures;
[0448] (2) hydroxypropylguars modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company LAMBERTI, the products RE210-18 (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain) sold by the company RHODIA.
[0449] Non-ionic associative polysaccharides may advantageously be selected from celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, preferably from hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably at C8 to C22.
[0450] The thickening polysaccharide(s) may advantageously be chosen from non-ionic cellulose ethers without fat chains in C8 to C30, guar gums in particular non-ionic, and starches in particular distarch phosphates; as well as mixtures thereof.
[0451] Other suitable thickening agents that may be used include thickening acrylic polymers, in particular non-ionic or anionic ones; in particular, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid; homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and their acrylamide copolymers, alone or in mixtures, said polymers being cross-linked or not.
[0452] Among homopolymers of (meth)acrylic acid, preferably crosslinked, examples include those crosslinked with an allylic ether of a sugar alcohol, such as the products sold under the names CARBOPOLS 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by NOVEON or the products sold under the names SYNTHALEN M and SYNTHALEN K by 3 VS A. These polymers have the INCI name Carbomer. Also noteworthy are crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid copolymers such as the polymer sold under the name AQUA SF1 by NOVEON.
[0453] Thickening polymers can also be selected from crosslinked homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and their crosslinked acrylamide copolymers, partially or totally neutralized.
[0454] As a thickening agent, we can also mention associative polymers, in particular of a non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric nature.
[0455] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more thickening agents selected from, alone or in mixture, clays and thickening polysaccharides, associative or non-associative, in particular non-ionic; more preferably from clays, non-ionic cellulose ethers without C8-C30 fatty chains, guar gums, in particular non-ionic, and starches, in particular phosphates of distarch, as well as their mixtures; even better among kaolinites and starches, especially starch phosphates; and preferably kaolin.
[0456] When present, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises the thickening agent(s) in a total quantity of 0.05 to 8% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, better 0.15 to 3% by weight, even better 0.2 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Water
[0457] The composition according to the invention also comprises water, in a total content of 20 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0458] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises water in a total content of between 25 and 39% by weight, preferably between 28 and 38% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0459] The pH of the composition according to the invention generally varies from 3 to 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6, preferably from 4 to 5.5.
[0460] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a total content of anionic surfactants and water such that the weight ratio between the total content of anionic surfactants (sulfated and non-sulfated) on the one hand, and the total water content on the other hand, is greater than or equal to 1, preferably strictly greater than 1, in particular greater than or equal to 1.1, better greater than or equal to 1.2. In particular, this weight ratio can range from 1 to 3, in particular from 1.1 to 2, or even from 1.2 to 1.8 (the limits being inclusive). Other ingredients
[0461] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one or more common cosmetic ingredients, in particular selected from among sunscreens; moisturizing agents; anti-dandruff agents; anti-hair loss agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidizing bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct colorants; straightening agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; micas, mother-of-pearl, glitter; pigments; fillers; perfumes; alkalizing or acidifying agents. Those skilled in the art shall take care to select the ingredients used in the composition, as well as their quantities, so as not to impair the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
[0462] The composition according to the invention can advantageously be packaged in any type of airtight packaging preventing any contact with air and allowing its use, such as a jar or a tube; preferably a tube, advantageously made of recyclable aluminum or plastic.
[0463] The composition according to the invention can be prepared in the manner described below; the whole process can advantageously be carried out at room temperature (25°C).
[0464] Step 1: Dispersion of any cationic guars in water,
[0465] Step 2: Addition of any amphoteric surfactants, then homogenization of the blend ;
[0466] step 3: addition of any preservatives, pH adjusters and thickening agents, followed by homogenization of the mixture;
[0467] Step 4: Addition of raw materials in liquid form, such as anionic surfactants, optional cationic polymers, silicones, perfumes, etc., followed by a homogenization step of the mixture; and
[0468] step 5: addition of raw materials in powder form, such as anionic surfactants, etc. followed by a homogenization step of the mixture.
[0469] The invention further relates to a cosmetic treatment process, preferably for cleaning and / or washing keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers, especially human keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising a step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition as defined above.
[0470] Preferably, a step of rinsing the keratinous materials, for example with water, is implemented after the step of applying the composition according to the invention.
[0471] A drying step for the keratin materials may be provided in the process according to the invention, in particular after the rinsing step, notably using a heating means such as a hair dryer.
[0472] The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention but are not intended to be limiting. In these examples, quantities are expressed as % by weight of active ingredient (AI) unless otherwise stated. Example 1
[0473] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below (in g).
[0474] [Tables 1] Composition Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Sodium lauryl sulfate 33.7 16.0 48.5 Sodium laureth sulfate 2.5 34.1 - Sodium cocoyl isethionate 10.2 - - Cocamidopropyl betaine 6 5.6 11.8 Cationic polymers (Cationic Guar and / or PQ-7) 1.6 0.9 2.2 Amodimethicone 2.4 - - Silicone emulsion (1) - 13.4 - Carbomer - 1 - Glycol distearate 1.2 0.6 - Kaolin 0.3 - - Sodium chloride 1.1 1 2.7 Preservatives, perfume, pH adjuster (pH=5) Qs Qs Qs Water Qsp 100 (approx. 38%) Qsp 100 (approx. 30%) Qsp 100 (approx. 32%)
[0475] The silicone emulsion (1) is that described in Example 1 of WO2017 / 108824. It comprises, as active matter, 1.35% amodimethicone, 5.4% dimethicone and 1.26% of a mixture of non-ionic surfactants, as well as about 5.4% water.
[0476] The composition of Example 1 can be obtained using the following preparation process, carried out at room temperature (25°C): dispersion of cationic guar (sold in solid form) in water; addition of the amphoteric surfactant (sold in aqueous solution) and mixing; addition of preservatives, pH agents and kaolin, and mixing; addition of raw materials in liquid form (SLES, PQ7, silicone, perfume), and mixing; and finally addition of raw materials in powder form (SLS, cocoyl isethionate, NaCl, glycol distearate) followed by a homogenization step of the final mixture.
[0477] Cosmetic compositions are obtained which can be advantageously used for cleaning hair (as a rinse-off shampoo).
[0478] A small amount of the composition can be taken, for example in the palm of the hand, mixed with water and stirred quickly, thus producing a foam of adequate quantity and good quality.
[0479] These compositions are, at room temperature, in the form of a creamy, semi-solid and malleable paste.
[0480] Their viscosities, measured as previously indicated, at 25°C and at a shear gradient of 0.1 s-1, are respectively about 432,000 mPa.s for example 1; and about 380,000 mPa.s for example 2.
[0481] These compositions can be packaged in a tube.
Claims
Demands
1. Cosmetic composition comprising: - one or more non-oxyalkylated sulfated anionic surfactants, - water in a total content of between 20 and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and - one or more conditioning agents selected from cationic polymers, silicones, and mixtures thereof.
2. Composition according to claim 1, having a dynamic viscosity, measured at 25°C, 1 atm, for a shear rate of 0.1 s'1, greater than or equal to 200 Pa.s (200,000 mPa.s), in particular between 250 and 900 Pa.s (250,000 and 900,000 mPa.s), better between 300 and 800 Pa.s, even better between 350 and 700 Pa.s, preferably between 370 and 650 Pa.s, most preferably between 420 and 600 Pa.s, and even better between 450 and 550 Pa.s.
3. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-oxyalkylated sulfated anionic surfactants are selected from, alone or in mixtures, alkyl sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; preferably selected from, alone or in mixtures, alkyl sulfates, in particular in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10-C20, or even in C10-C16, and their salts; said salts being in particular selected from salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohols, preferably of alkali or alkaline earth metals.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of non-oxyalkylated sulfate anionic surfactants ranges from 10 to 55% by weight, preferably from 12 to 50% by weight, better from 25 to 45% by weight, preferably from 30 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more oxyalkylated sulfate anionic surfactants; preferably selected from alkyl ether sulfates, alone or in mixture, particularly C6-C30, better C8-C24, even better C10-C20, or even C10-C16, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, as well as their salts; said salts being in particular chosen from among the salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.
6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more anionic sulfonate surfactants; in particular selected from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylethersulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, N-acyltaurates, alkylsulfolaurates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylisethionates; as well as salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, or even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds can be polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs;preferably chosen from among, alone or in mixture: - C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, especially C12-C20, - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20, particularly laurylsulfosuccinates. - C6-C24 alkylethersulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20; - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates, - C6-C24 alkylsulfoacetates, especially C12-C20, particularly in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohols; preferably selected from, alone or in mixture, (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates, in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.;
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of anionic surfactants ranges from 35 to 65% by weight, better from 38 to 60% by weight, even better from 40 to 58% by weight, preferably from 42 to 55% by weight, even more preferably from 45 to 53% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants; in particular selected from, alone or in mixture, (i) compounds of formula (3): Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2 COO , M+ , X in which: - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; - M+ represents a cationic counter-ion from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine, and - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counter-ion, such as one chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate;or M+ and X are absent; (ii) compounds of formula (4): Ra -CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (4) in which: - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX'; - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2; - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2 COOH, CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom; - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z'; - Z' represents a cationic counterion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; - Ra- represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, particularly in Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group. (iii) compounds of formula (5): Ra-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) in which:; - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z' ' ; - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical in C1 to C4; - Z” represents a cationic counterion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion from an organic amine; - R represents an alkyl or alkenyl group from C10 to C30 of an acid Ra-COOH, preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil; - n and n', independently of each other, denote an integer from 1 to 3. (iv) alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, and alkyl(C8-C2o)-amidoalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines; better, selected from alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the conditioning agent is selected from one or more cationic polymers; in particular from, alone or in mixture: - homopolymers or copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts, in particular copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts and acrylamide such as POLYQUATERNIUM-7; - cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses such as POLYQUATERNIUM-10, and cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gums.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising the cationic polymer(s) in a total amount from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better from 0.1 to 4% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 3% by weight, or even from 1 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the conditioning agent is selected from one or more silicones, in particular from amino silicones, silicones non-amino, and their mixtures; preferably among, alone or in mixture, non-volatile liquid non-amino silicones, and in particular polydialkylsiloxanes and more particularly polydimethylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups; and / or non-volatile liquid amino silicones, such as amodimethicones; and their mixtures.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising the silicone(s) in a total content of 0.1 to 10% by weight, better of 0.5 to 8% by weight, preferably of 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total water content is between 25 and 39% by weight, preferably between 28 and 38% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio between the total content of anionic surfactants and the total water content is greater than or equal to 1, preferably strictly greater than 1, in particular greater than or equal to 1.1, better greater than or equal to 1.2; in particular ranges from 1 to 3, better from 1.1 to 2, or even from 1.2 to 1.
8.
15. A cosmetic treatment process, preferably for cleaning and / or washing keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers, especially human keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising a step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14.
16. A method according to claim 15, comprising a step of rinsing the keratinous materials, for example with water, carried out after the step of applying the composition according to the invention.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Carboxyl group-containing siloxane compounds
EP0186507A2
Hair care composition
EP0530974A1
novel cellulosic ethers containing quaternary nitrogen
FR1492597A
Tension-relieving device for stretchable sheet material
US3589578A
Cationic polygalactomannan compositions
US4031307A