Skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials

Abstract

Skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials. The present invention relates to a composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials, comprising: a) at least one silicone resin with at least one T motif; b) at least one heating agent; and c) 0.01% by weight or more of at least one cooling agent, relative to the total weight of the composition. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials. Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition. Preferably, the present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition for keratinous materials. The present invention also relates to a method for skincare and / or makeup application of keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Skin and / or lip care and / or makeup compositions are produced to meet the needs for skin and / or lip care and / or makeup. In particular, consumers seek a lip care and makeup product that effectively revitalizes the lips. It is known to formulate products such as lip gloss, lip oil, or other types of lip compositions for the purpose of lip care and / or makeup application.

[0003] With the development of high-quality consumer demands, functions including a plumping effect, warming and cooling sensations, and long-lasting durability are becoming increasingly important. However, for current cosmetic products, especially lip products, it is difficult to achieve a plumping effect, warming and cooling sensations, and long-lasting durability all in one formulation.

[0004] Therefore, there is a need for a composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, particularly of the lips, which can simultaneously offer a desirable plumping effect, warming and refreshing sensations, and long durability after application. Summary of the invention

[0005] The inventors have discovered that such a need can be satisfied by the composition according to the present invention.

[0006] According to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials, comprising: a. at least one silicone resin with at least one T pattern; b. at least one heating agent; and c. 0.01% by weight or more of at least one cooling agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0007] The composition according to the present invention can simultaneously offer a desirable plumping effect, warming and cooling sensations, and long-lasting durability after application.

[0008] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, comprising: the application of the composition according to the first aspect on the keratinous materials.

[0009] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even clearer upon reading the detailed description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0010] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0011] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no material features or even any features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (such as "essentially consisting of" or "consisting of"). In the case of "essentially consisting of," any additional composition, material, and / or component that materially affects the fundamental and new features is excluded from such an embodiment, but any composition, material, and / or component that does not materially affect the fundamental and new features may be included in the embodiment.

[0012] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and other substances used in the description and claims shall be understood as being modified by the term "approximately". Accordingly, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​that may be modified according to the desired performance obtained as required. The term "approximately" referring to a certain value is intended to denote a range to within ±5% of the value, for example: within ±3%, ±2%, ±1%, and ±0.5% of the value.

[0013] As used herein, the expression "keratinous material(s)" refers to the skin and lips. "Skin" includes all skin on the body, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratinous material(s) refers to the lips.

[0014] As used here, the expression "long-lasting" compositions refers to compositions where the overall effects and sensations remain the same or substantially the same as at the time of application after a long period of time, for example 10 min. Silicone resins

[0015] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one silicone resin with at least one T motif. Optionally, the composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one silicone resin without a T motif.

[0016] Generally, the term "resin" is understood to refer to a compound with a three-dimensional structure. "Silicone resins" are also called "siloxane resins." Thus, for the purposes of the present invention, a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.

[0017] The nomenclature of silicone resins is known as "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the various siloxane monomer motifs it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of motif.

[0018] The letter “M” represents a single-function motif of formula R4R5R6SiOi / 2, the silicon atom being bonded to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this motif.

[0019] The letter “D” represents a difunctional motif of formula R2R3SiO2 / 2, the silicon atom being bonded to two oxygen atoms in the polymer comprising this motif.

[0020] The letter “T” represents a trifunctional motif of formula R*SiO3 / 2, the silicon atom being bonded to three oxygen atoms in the polymer comprising this motif.

[0021] In the motifs M, D and T defined above, each from R1 to R6 independently represents a hydrocarbon-based group (preferably an alkyl group), a phenyl group, or a phenylalkyl group.

[0022] The letter “Q” represents a tetrafunctional motif of formula SiO4 / 2, the silicon atom being bonded to four oxygen atoms, which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer.

[0023] Various silicone resins with different properties can be obtained from these different patterns, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of patterns, the nature and number of groups R1 to R6, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and the size of the side chains.

[0024] According to the present invention, silicone resin with at least one T motif designates a silicone resin having at least one trifunctional motif of formula R1SiO3 / 2.

[0025] According to the present invention, in addition to motif T, the silicone resin with at least one motif T may further comprise at least one motif M, at least one motif Q, at least one motif D, or mixtures thereof.

[0026] According to the present invention, silicone resins, including those with at least one T motif and those without a T motif, can be used in powder form, or in a form dissolved in a solvent, usually chosen from nonpolar hydrocarbon-based oils or silicone oils, which are volatile or non-volatile, and preferably volatile.

[0027] Volatile oils based on nonpolar hydrocarbons that may be cited include alkanes, preferably branched alkanes of 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as C8-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), for example, isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane.

[0028] Volatile silicone oils that may be cited include linear or cyclic silicone oils such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing 3 to 7 silicon atoms. Examples of such oils that may be cited include decamethylcyclopentasi loxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, methyltrimethicone, polydimethylsiloxanes, such as those sold under the reference DC 200 by Dow Corning or KF 96 A by Shin Etsu; alone or in mixtures.

[0029] In the first embodiment, the silicone resin with at least one T motif can be chosen from polysilsesquioxanes of formula (R'SiCL^X (T motifs) in which z is greater than 100 and the R1 group represents a hydrocarbon-based group (preferably an alkyl group) containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 3 carbon atoms, or a phenyl group, in which the polysilsesquioxane optionally comprises one or more Si-OH terminal groups.

[0030] The following polysilsesquioxanes may be used:

[0031] - polymethylsilsesquioxanes, which are polysilsesquioxanes of formula (R'SiO 3 / 2)z in which the R1 group is a methyl group. These polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described, for example, in US patent 5,246,694, and may be those sold by the Wacker company under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK, or by the Shin-Etsu company under the reference KR-220L;

[0032] - polypropylsilsesquioxanes, which are polysilsesquioxanes of formula (R'SiO 3 / 2)z in which group R1 is a propyl group. These compounds and their synthesis are described, for example, in patent application WO 2005 / 075567, and may be those sold by Dow Corning under the reference Dow Corning 670 Fluid or 680 Fluid, which is a polypropylsilsesquioxane diluted in a volatile oil such as a volatile hydrocarbon oil or a volatile silicone oil such as D5, in which Dow Corning 670 and 680 Fluids have the general formula R'nSiO (4_n) / 2, in which R1 is independently selected from a hydrogen atom and a monovalent hydrocarbon group comprising 3 carbon atoms, in which more than 80 mole percent of R1 are propyl groups, n is a value of 1.0 to 1.4, more than 60 mole percent of the copolymer comprises R'SiO3 / 2 motifs, and having a hydroxyl or alkoxy content of 0.2 to 10 wt%, for example between 1 and 4 wt%, preferably between 5 and 10 wt%, and more preferably between 6 and 8 wt%; Preferably, the polypropylsilsesquioxane resin has a molecular weight of about 5,000, 7,000, 10,000, 15,000, 20,000, 25,000 to about 30,000, 50,000, 75,000, 100,000 g / mol and a Tg less than or equal to about 37 °C, from about -100, -50, -37 or -20 to about 37 °C;

[0033] - polyphenylsilsesquioxanes, which are polysilsesquioxanes of formula (R1 SiO3 / 2)z in which R1 is a phenyl group. These compounds and their synthesis are described, for example, in US patent application 2004 / 0180011, and may be those sold by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning 217 Flake Resin, which is a polyphenylsilsesquioxane with silanol terminal groups; or by Wacker under the name Belsil SPR 45 VP. These compounds may also be those sold by Dow under the name DOWSIL™ 1686 Resin, or by Grant Industries under the name Granresin PHQ-Fluid.

[0034] In the second embodiment, the silicone resin with at least one T pattern can be a silicone resin having the following patterns: i. (R4R5R6SiO1 / 2)a ; ü. (R2R3SiO2 / 2)b ; iii. (R*SiO3 / 2)c ; and iv. (SiO4 / 2)d;

[0035] wherein each of R1 to R6 independently represents a hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, or a phenylalkyl group, and preferably an alkyl group containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a phenyl group,

[0036] a is greater than 0,

[0037] b is equal to or greater than 0,

[0038] c is greater than 0, and

[0039] d is greater than 0,

[0040] a+b+c+d=l, and a, b, c and d are mole fractions,

[0041] provided that more than 40 mol% of group R1 of the motif (R1SiO3 / 2)c is a propyl group or a methyl group, and preferably a methyl group.

[0042] Preferably, the silicone resin with at least one T motif is a silicone resin having the following motifs:

[0043] (i) (R4R5R6SiO1 / 2)a ;

[0044] (üi) (R'SiCMe ; and

[0045] (iv) (SiO4 / 2)d ;

[0046] wherein each of R1 and R4 to R6 independently represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms; preferably, each of R4 to R6 independently represents a methyl group and R1 represents a propyl or methyl group,

[0047] a is between 0.05 and 0.85,

[0048] c is greater than 0, preferably between 0.05 and 0.85,

[0049] d is between 0.05 and 0.85,

[0050] a+c+d=l, and a, c and d are mole fractions,

[0051] provided that more than 40% by mol of the R1 group of the motif (R1SiO3 / 2)c is a propyl group or a methyl group, and preferably a methyl group.

[0052] A particularly preferred example of such silicone resins for use in the present invention is polymethylsilsesquioxane / trimethylsiloxysilicate, such as that sold under the name Granresin MQI-T50 by Grant Industries.

[0053] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one silicone resin without pattern T, which comprises at least one pattern M and at least one pattern Q.

[0054] Preferably, the silicone resin without motif T is chosen from the alkylsiloxysilicates of formula [R4R5R6SiOi / 2 ]x(SiO4 / 2)y (MQ motifs) in which x and y are independently integers from 10 to 200, preferably from 20 to 150, and more preferably from 35 to 80, and each of the groups R4, R5, and R6 independently represents a hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, or a phenylalkyl group, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and more preferably each of them represents a methyl group.

[0055] More preferably, the silicone resin without pattern T is chosen from trimethylsiloxysilicates of formula [(CH3)3SiOi / 2]x(SiO4 / 2)y, in which x and y are independently integers from 10 to 200, preferably from 20 to 150, and more preferably from 35 to 80.

[0056] Examples of trimethylsiloxysilicate silicone resins include those available from Wacker, Momentive Performance Materials, Grant Industries, Siltech, Milliken and Dow Corning, such as those sold under the reference SR 1000® by Momentive Performance Materials, or under the name BELSIL® TMS 803 is a commercial product from Wacker. Phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate (for example, the one sold under the name Silshine 151 by General Electric), can also be cited as silicone resins without a T-motif. The preparation of these resins is described in particular in US patent number 5,817,302.

[0057] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one of the silicone resin with at least one pattern T selected from the silicone resin with at least one pattern T according to the first embodiment above, and the silicone resin with at least one pattern T according to the second embodiment above, and one of their mixtures.

[0058] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one silicone resin with at least one motif T according to the first embodiment above, at least one silicone resin with at least one motif T according to the second embodiment above, and at least one silicone resin without at least one motif T, which comprises at least one motif M and at least one motif Q.

[0059] When the composition according to the present invention comprises a silicone resin with at least one motif T according to the second embodiment above and a silicone resin without motif T which comprises at least one motif M and at least one motif Q, the weight ratio between the first and the last goes from 0.1:1 to 3:1, preferably from 0.3:1 to 2:1, more preferably from 0.5:1 to 1:1.

[0060] By means of this specific weight ratio, the composition comprising it offers a desirable consistency after its spreading or application on the lips or skin.

[0061] Advantageously, the silicone resin with at least one T motif is present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 35% by weight, more preferably from 8% by weight to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 10% by weight to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0062] Preferably, the silicone resin according to the first embodiment above is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 3% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] Preferably, the silicone resin according to the second embodiment above is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 5% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] If present, the silicone resin without pattern T, which includes at least one pattern M and at least one pattern Q, is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 25% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% by weight to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Heating agents

[0065] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one heating agent.

[0066] According to the present invention, the heating agent can provide a warming effect. By "warming effect" is meant a perceptible increase in temperature on keratinous materials when the composition of the present invention is applied to keratinous materials, in particular the lips. This warming effect is preferably mild and gentle.

[0067] The heating agent can be any of the active ingredients in the field of cosmetics known to persons in the trade, which typically provides a heating effect on keratinous materials and in particular the lips.

[0068] Preferably, the heating agent according to the present invention is chosen from the group consisting of vanillyl or isovanillyl ethers, such as vanillyl methyl ether, vanillyl ethyl ether, vanillyl propyl ether, vanillyl isopropyl ether, vanillyl butyl ether, vanillyl amyl ether, vanillyl isoamyl ether, vanillyl hexyl ether, isovanillyl methyl ether, isovanillyl ethyl ether, isovanillyl propyl ether, isovanillyl isopropyl ether, isovanillyl butyl ether, isovanillyl amyl ether, isovanillyl isoamyl ether and isovanillyl hexyl ether; vanillin or isovanillin polyol acetals, such as vanillin propylene glycol acetal, and isovanillin propylene glycol acetal; vanillyl or isovanillyl ether esters, such as vanillyl butyl ether acetate and isovanillyl butyl ether acetate;Vanillyl amides, preferably capsaicinoids, such as capsaicin, dihydrocapsaicin, nordihydrocapsaicin, homodihydrocapsaicin, homocapsaicin, biscapsaicin, trishomocapsaicin, nornorcapsaicin, norcapsaicin, and capsaicinol; and other vanillyl amides, such as vanillyl caprylamide (octanoic acid vanillylamide), vanillyl pelargonamide (nonanoic acid vanillylamide), vanillyl caproamide (decanoic acid vanillylamide), and vanillyl undecanamide (undecanoic acid vanillylamide). The term "polyol" refers to any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0069] According to the present invention, capsaicinoids can be synthesized or of natural origin. Preferably, capsaicinoids are derived naturally from pepper-based products, such as pepper powder (cayenne pepper), pepper tincture, pepper extract, pepper oil, pepper oleoresin, black pepper extract, and white pepper extract.

[0070] In addition, the heating agent according to the present invention can also be gingerol, which is normally found in the form of a pungent yellow oil in the ginger rhizome.

[0071]

[0072]

[0073]

[0074]

[0075]

[0076]

[0077]

[0078] More preferably, the heating agent according to the present invention is chosen from vanillyl or isovanillyl ethers, vanillin or isovanillin polyol acetals, vanillyl or isovanillyl esters, vanillyl amides, preferably capsaicinoids, and mixtures thereof. More preferably still, the heating agent according to the present invention is chosen from vanillyl or isovanillyl ethers, capsaicinoids, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the heating agent according to the present invention is chosen from vanillyl butyl ether, capsaicin, and one of their mixtures. Advantageously, the heating agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.02% by weight to 1% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.04% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cooling agents The composition according to the present invention comprises 0.01% by weight or more of at least one cooling agent, relative to the total weight of the composition. The cooling agent can be applied to keratinous materials, particularly the lips, to provide a cooling effect. By "cooling effect" is meant a sensation of a perceptible decrease in temperature when the composition of the present invention is applied to keratinous materials, particularly the lips. The cooling agent is chosen so that the above-mentioned warming effect of the present composition is not compromised, or may even be enhanced. The cooling agent can be any of the active ingredients in the field of cosmetics known to people in the trade, which typically offers a cooling effect on keratinous materials and especially the lips. Preferably, the cooling agent according to the present invention is chosen from compounds containing a menthyl group (Formula I) or a menthylene group (Formula II) as follows:

[0079] wherein the R group represents H, OH, OR", OCOR", or CONR", and the R' group independently represents a linear or branched CrC8 alkyl group that is optionally substituted by one or two hydroxyl groups, one or two carboxyl groups, and / or one or two oxo groups, and / or is optionally interrupted by one or two heteroatoms selected from O, S, or N; or represents a 5- or 6-membered heterocycle that is optionally substituted by one or two oxo groups; and the R' group represents an O atom or the menthylene group of the R' group is bonded to two O atoms of the R' group derived from a polyol to form an acetal or a ketal. The term "polyol" means any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0080] More preferably, the cooling agent is chosen from the group consisting of menthol, and its isomers, including isomenthol, neoisomenthol and neomenthol, menthone, menthyl lactate, N-substituted menthane carboxamides, for example, N-ethyl-p-menthane carboxamide, 3-(l-menthoxy)-propan-l,2-diol, menthyl glycolate, menthyl pyrrolidone carboxylate, menthyl methyl ether, menthone glycerin acetal, N-ethoxycarbonylmethyl-3-p-menthane carboxamide, monomenthyl glutarate, monomenthyl succinate, and mixtures thereof.

[0081] According to the present invention, compounds containing a menthyl group or a menthylene group can be synthesized or of natural origin. Preferably, compounds containing a menthyl group or a menthylene group are derived naturally from mint-based products, such as peppermint oil, spearmint oil, and mint oil.

[0082] The cooling effect of compounds containing a menthyl group or a menthylene group is well known by their neurosensory mechanism. Compounds containing a menthyl group or a menthylene group according to the present invention can be used in the form of various varieties of extracts such as Mentha Aquatica, Mentha Arvensis, Mentha Canadensis, Mentha Pulegium, Mentha Rotundifolia, Mentha Spicata, Mentha Viridis (spearmint) and Mentha Piperita (leaves, branches, stems and flowers).

[0083] More preferably, the cooling agent according to the present invention is chosen from the group consisting of menthol and its isomers, menthyl lactate, menthoxypropanediol, and mixtures thereof.

[0084] Even more preferably, the cooling agent according to the present invention is chosen from menthol and its isomers.

[0085] Advantageously, the cooling agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.08% by weight to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, and most preferably from 0.2% by weight to 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0086] As used here, preferably the weight ratio between the cooling agent and the heating agent is 0.4 to 10, preferably 0.8 to 6, more preferably 1 to 4. Pigments

[0087] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one pigment.

[0088] The term “pigment” refers to white or colored particles, mineral or organic, which are insoluble in an aqueous or oily medium, and which are intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting film.

[0089] This pigment can be a coated or uncoated mineral pigment.

[0090] Among the mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, we may mention zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide, titanium oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red), chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, and metallic powders, for example aluminum powder and copper powder.

[0091] These pigments can also be organic pigments.

[0092] The pigment can also be a lake. The term "lake" refers to insolubilized dyes adsorbed or precipitated onto insoluble particles, the resulting whole remaining insoluble during use.

[0093] The pigments may or may not have been subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment.

[0094] Preferably, the pigment according to the present invention is chosen from mineral pigments, preferably uncoated mineral pigments.

[0095] More preferably, the pigment according to the present invention is chosen from the group consisting of zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red), chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, aluminum powder, copper powder, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] More preferably still, the pigment according to the present invention is chosen from titanium dioxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red), and mixtures thereof.

[0097] Advantageously, the pigment is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils

[0098] According to the present invention, the composition may comprise at least one oil.

[0099] The term “oil” refers to a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0100] The oil may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0101] According to the present invention, the oil can be chosen from ester oils, hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0102] The ester oils according to the present invention can be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof. Furthermore, the ester oils according to the present invention can also be selected from polyesters obtained by polycondensation of a polyol and a polyacid.

[0103] The ester oils are preferably selected from liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0104] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:

[0105] - linear or branched C6-Ci6 alkanes, preferably C8-Ci6 alkanes, and more preferentially the C8-Cl6 isoalkanes. Examples that can be cited include, but are not limited to, hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and

[0106] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms.

[0107] The expression "silicone oil" refers to an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and preferably at least one Si-O, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0108] Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as alkyldimethicone, cyclic organopolysiloxanes, phenyl silicones, and mixtures thereof.

[0109] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from among the phenyl silicones.

[0110] The expression "phenylated silicone" is intended to designate an organopolysiloxane substituted by at least one phenyl.

[0111] More preferably, phenylened silicone is chosen from

[0112] - diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicones such as Shin Etsu product KF-56A Chemical Co. Ltd,

[0113] - phenyl trimethicones such as Dow Corning's DC556,

[0114] - diphenyl dimethicones such as products KF-54, KF54HV, KF-53 and KF-50-100CS,

[0115] - trimethylsiloxy phenyl dimethicone such as Belsil oils, for example, Belsil® PDM1000 (1000 cSt), Belsil® PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil® PDM 20 (20 cSt) from Wacker. The values ​​in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25 °C.

[0116] - trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane such as PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid from Dow or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid® from Dow Corning, and

[0117] - their mixture.

[0118] According to the present invention, the oil is preferably chosen from silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from phenyl silicones, C8-Ci6 isoalkanes, and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably chosen from trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, isododecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0119] Advantageously, the oil is present in an amount ranging from 10% by weight to 80% by weight, preferably from 15% by weight to 75% by weight, and more preferably from 20% by weight to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0120] Advantageously, phenyl silicone is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 25% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 3% by weight to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional ingredients

[0121] The composition according to the present invention may include one or more additional ingredients, chosen from those classically used in cosmetic products, and in particular makeup products.

[0122] The composition according to the present invention may include any of the following additives: pH correcting agents, biological extracts, perfumes, chelating agents, preservatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0123] A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and quantity of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not negatively affected by the additional ingredients. Composition

[0124] The composition according to the present invention is applicable to all common cosmetic products, preferably makeup products, and more preferably lip products.

[0125] By means of the specific components as defined above, the composition comprising them can simultaneously offer a desirable plumping effect, warming and cooling sensations, and long durability after application.

[0126] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is an anhydrous composition. As used herein, the term "anhydrous" refers to a composition that contains 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less, of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, or even a water-free composition. Such small amounts of water may, where appropriate, be introduced, in particular, by the composition ingredients, which may contain residual amounts of it.

[0127] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. 5% by weight to 35% by weight of at least one silicone resin with at least one T pattern; b. 0.02% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one heating agent; and c. 0.08% by weight to 3% by weight of at least one cooling agent.

[0128] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0129] a) 8% by weight to 30% by weight of at least one silicone resin with at least one motif T selected from the group consisting of

[0130] a) at least one polysilsesquioxane of formula (R'SiC^X (T motifs) wherein the R1 group is a hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and

[0131] a2) at least one silicone resin comprising the following patterns:

[0132] (i) (R4R5R6SiO1 / 2)a ;

[0133] (üi) (R*SiO3 / 2)c ; and

[0134] (iv) (SiO4 / 2)d ;

[0135] wherein each of R1 and R4 to R6 independently represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms; preferably, each of R4 to R6 independently represents a methyl group and R1 represents a propyl or methyl group,

[0136] a is between 0.05 and 0.85,

[0137] c is greater than 0, preferably between 0.05 and 0.85,

[0138] d is between 0.05 and 0.85,

[0139] a+c+d=l, and a, c and d are mole fractions,

[0140] provided that more than 40% by mol of the R1 group of the motif (R1SiO3 / 2)c is a propyl group or a methyl group and preferably a methyl group;

[0141] b) 0.02% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one heating agent selected from vanillyl or isovanillyl ethers, vanillin or isovanillin polyol acetals, esters of vanillyl or isovanillyl ether, vanillyl amides, preferably capsaicinoids, and mixtures thereof; and

[0142] c) 0.08 wt% to 3 wt% of at least one cooling agent selected from compounds containing a menthyl group (Formula I) or a menthylene group (Formula II) as follows:

[0143] wherein the R group represents H, OH, OR", OCOR", or CONR", and the R' group independently represents a linear or branched CrC8 alkyl group that is optionally substituted by one or two hydroxyl groups, one or two carboxyl groups, and / or one or two oxo groups, and / or is optionally interrupted by one or two heteroatoms selected from O, S, or N; or represents a 5- or 6-membered heterocycle that is optionally substituted by one or two oxo groups; and the R' group represents an O atom or the menthylene group of the group is bonded to two O atoms of the R' group derived from a polyol to form an acetal or a ketal.

[0144] In a more preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. 10% by weight to 25% by weight of at least one silicone resin with at least one T motif chosen from polypropylsilsesquioxane, polymethylsilsesquioxane / trimethylsiloxysilicate, and one of their mixtures; b. 0.04% to 0.5% by weight of at least one heating agent selected from vanillyl butyl ether, capsaicin, and mixtures thereof, preferably vanillyl butyl ether; and c. 0.2% by weight to 0.6% by weight of at least one cooling agent selected from menthol and its isomers, menthyl lactate, and mixtures thereof, and preferably selected from menthol and its isomers. Method and use

[0145] The composition according to the present invention can be used in a process of care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, by being applied to the keratinous materials.

[0146] The composition according to the invention can be applied by any means allowing uniform distribution, for example using a finger, a brush or a cotton ball.

[0147] According to the second aspect, the present invention relates to a method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, comprising the application of the above composition to the keratinous materials.

[0148] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples described below, which are given by way of non-limiting illustrations. EXAMPLES Comparative Examples 1 to 3 and Inventive Example 1

[0149] The compositions according to Comparative Examples (CE.) 1 to 3 and Inventive Example (Ex.) 1 comprising the ingredients shown in Table 1 were prepared, all quantities being expressed as percentages by weight of active materials relative to the total weight of each composition.

[0150] [Tables 1] Components Ex.1 EC.1 EC.2 EC.3 MENTHOL 0.3 0.3 0 0.3 VANILLYL BUTYL ETHER 0.15 0.15 0.15 0 TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE (ET) POLYPROPYL SILSESQUIOXANE 5-16 0 5-16 5-16 POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE / TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE 7-15 0 7-15 7-15 TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE 0 32 0 0 IRON OXIDES 3 3 3 3 TITANIUM DIOXIDE 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 PHENYLATED SILICONES 5-12 5-12 5-12 5-12 ISODODECANE QS QS QS QS

[0151] TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE (ET) POLYPROPYLSILSESQUIOXANE*: the percentage by weight of active material means the percentage by weight of polypropylsilsesquioxane. Preparation process

[0152] The compositions were prepared using a process comprising the following steps: 1. Addition of isododecane, phenyl silicones and silicone resins in a cup applicable to a high-speed mixer to form Premix 1; 2. Stirring Premix 1 at a speed of 2500-3500 rpm until homogeneous; 3. Addition of iron oxides, titanium dioxide, menthol and / or vanillyl butyl ether into the resulting homogeneous Premix 1 to form Mixture 1; 4. Stir Mixture 1 at a speed of 2500 to 3500 rpm until it is homogeneous to form the final compositions. Sensation test

[0153] Sensations

[0154] Six experts were recruited to evaluate the sensations below and assigned scores, each expert applying the same amount of each composition to their lips every day. The degree of each sensation delivered by each composition was rated on a scale of 0 to 5 according to the following standard, and then the average score was calculated for each composition:

[0155] Pulping intensity:

[0156] 4 < Scores < 5: very strong

[0157] 3 < Scores < 4: strong

[0158] 2 < Scores < 3: average

[0159] 1 < Scores < 2: slight

[0160] 0 < Scores < 1: none or very slight

[0161] The higher the scores, the stronger the plumping intensity, with 3 < Scores < 5 being preferable.

[0162] Refreshing sensation:

[0163] 4 < Scores < 5: very strong

[0164] 3 < Scores < 4: strong

[0165] 2 < Scores < 3: average

[0166] 1 < Scores < 2: slight

[0167] 0 < Scores < 1: none or very slight

[0168] The higher the scores, the stronger the cooling sensation, 3 < Scores < 5 being preferable.

[0169] Warming sensation:

[0170] 4 < Scores < 5: very strong

[0171] 3 < Scores < 4: strong

[0172] 2 < Scores < 3: average

[0173] 1 < Scores < 2: slight

[0174] 0 < Scores < 1: none or very slight

[0175] The higher the scores, the stronger the heating sensation, with 3 < Scores < 5 being preferable.

[0176] Durability: (for overall lip sensations)

[0177] 4 < Scores < 5: very long duration, sensation felt after 30 min or more;

[0178] 3 < Scores < 4: long duration, sensation felt after 10 min or more but less 30 mins;

[0179] 2 < Scores < 3: average duration, sensation felt after 5 min or more but less 10 mins;

[0180] 1 < Scores < 2: short duration, sensation felt after 3 min or more but less than 5 min;

[0181] 0 < Scores < 1: none or very short duration, sensation felt within 3 min.

[0182] The higher the scores, the better the duration effect, 3 < Scores < 5 being preferable.

[0183] The results of the sensation test are shown in Table 2.

[0184] [Tables2] Properties Ex.l EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 Plumping Intensity 5.0 5.0 3.6 2.3 Cooling Sensation 3.3 3.6 0 3.3 Warming Sensation 5.0 5.0 2.6 0 Durability 5.0 2.3 4.3 4.3

[0185] It can be seen that only the composition of Inventive Example 1, comprising 0.01% by weight or more of at least one cooling agent, at least one heating agent and at least one silicone resin with at least one T motif, can simultaneously provide a desirable plumping effect, warming and cooling sensations, and long durability.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials, comprising: (a) at least one silicone resin with at least one T motif; (b) at least one heating agent; and (c) 0.01% by weight or more of at least one cooling agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicone resin with at least one motif T comprises at least one polysilsesquioxane of formula (R'SiOs^X (T motifs)) wherein z is greater than 100 and the group R1 is an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 1 to 3 carbon atoms or is phenyl, more preferably methyl, propyl, phenyl, or mixtures thereof; more preferably propyl, wherein the polysilsesquioxane optionally comprises one or more Si-OH terminal groups; wherein said polysilsesquioxane is preferably present in an amount from 0.1 wt% to 30 wt%, more preferably from 1 wt% to 25 wt%, and even more preferably from 3 wt% to 20 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the silicone resin with at least one motif T comprises a silicone resin having the following motifs: (i) (R4R5R6SiO1 / 2)a; (ii) (R2R3SiO2 / 2)b; (iii) (R*SiO3 / 2)c; and (iv) (SiO4 / 2)d; wherein each of R1 to R6 independently represents a hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, or a phenylalkyl group, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a phenyl group, a is greater than 0, b is equal to or greater than 0, c is greater than 0, d is greater than 0, a+b+c+d=l, and a, b, c and d are mole fractions, provided that more than 40% by mol of group R1 of motif (R1 SiO3 / 2)c is a propyl group or a methyl group and more preferably a methyl group; preferably, the silicone resin with at least one motif T comprises a silicone resin having the following motifs: (i) (R4R5R6SiO1 / 2)a; (iii) (R*SiO3 / 2)c; and (iv) (SiO4 / 2)d; wherein each of R1 and R4 to R6 independently represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms;preferably, each from R4 to R6 independently represents a methyl group and R1 represents a propyl group or a methyl group, a is between 0.05 and 0.85, c is greater than 0, preferably between 0.05 and 0.85, d is between 0.05 and 0.85, a+c+d=l, and a, c and d are mole fractions, provided that more than 40% by mol of group R1 of the motif (R'SiO 3 / 2)c is a propyl group or a methyl group and preferably a methyl group; more preferably, the silicone resin with at least one motif T comprises polymethylsilsesquioxane / trimethylsiloxysilicate;in which the silicone resin with at least one motif T having said motifs (R4R5R6 SiO1 / 2)a, (SiO4 / 2)d, (R1SiO3 / 2)c, and optionally (R2R3SiO2 / 2)b is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 25% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.;

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the heating agent is selected from vanillyl or isovanillyl ethers, vanillin or isovanillin polyol acetals, vanillyl or isovanillyl ether esters, vanillyl amides, preferably capsaicinoids, and mixtures thereof;

5. Preferably, the heating agent is chosen from vanillyl or isovanillyl ethers, capsaicinoids, and mixtures thereof; more preferably, the heating agent is chosen from vanillyl butyl ether, capsaicin, and one of their mixtures; wherein the heating agent is preferably present in an amount from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.02% by weight to 1% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.04% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cooling agent is selected from compounds containing a menthyl group (Formula I) or a menthylene group (Formula II) as follows: in which the R group represents H, OH, OR", OCOR", or CONR", and the R' group independently represents a linear or branched Ci-C8 alkyl group that is optionally substituted by one or two hydroxyl groups, one or two carboxyl groups, and / or one or two oxo groups, and / or is optionally interrupted by one or two heteroatoms selected from O, S, or N; or represents a 5- or 6-membered heterocycle that is optionally substituted by one or two oxo groups; and the R' group represents an O atom or the menthylene group of the group is bonded to two O atoms of the R' group derived from a polyol to form an acetal or a ketal, preferably, the cooling agent is selected from menthol and its isomers, menthyl lactate, menthoxypropanediol, and mixtures thereof; Even more preferentially, the cooling agent is chosen from menthol and its isomers; wherein the cooling agent is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.08% by weight to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% by weight. weight at 1% by weight, most preferably from 0.2% by weight to 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of the cooling agent to the heating agent is from 0.4 to 10, preferably from 0.8 to 6, more preferably from 1 to 4.

7. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one motif-free silicone resin comprising at least one motif-free M and at least one motif-free Q, wherein said motif-free silicone resin is preferably selected from alkylsiloxysilicates of formula [R4R5R6SiO1 / 2]x (SiO4 / 2)y (MQ motifs) wherein x and y are independently integers from 10 to 200, preferably from 20 to 150, and more preferably from 35 to 80, and each of the groups R4, R5, and R6 independently represents a hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, or a phenylalkyl group, preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and more preferably each of them represents a methyl group, more preferably,said pattern-free silicone resin T is selected from trimethylsiloxysilicates of formula [(CH3)3SiO1 / 2]x(SiO4 / 2)y, wherein x and y are independently integers from 10 to 200, preferably from 20 to 150, and more preferably from 35 to 80; wherein the pattern-free silicone resin T is preferably present in an amount from 0.1% by weight to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% by weight to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is anhydrous.

9. A skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, preferably for the lips, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. 10% by weight to 25% by weight of at least one silicone resin with at least one T motif selected from the

10. polypropylsilsesquioxane, polymethylsilsesquioxane / trimethylsiloxysilicate, and mixtures thereof; b. 0.04% by weight to 0.5% by weight of at least one heating agent selected from vanillyl butyl ether, capsaicin and a mixture thereof, and which is preferably vanillyl butyl ether; c. 0.2% by weight to 0.6% by weight of at least one cooling agent selected from menthol and its isomers, menthyl lactate, and a mixture thereof, and preferably selected from menthol and its isomers. A process for the treatment and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, comprising: the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on keratinous materials.