COMPOSITION AND PROCESS FOR THE TREATMENT OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS
A composition with C-glycosides and film-forming agents addresses the issues of stickiness and texture transformation in cosmetic products, offering anti-aging benefits and a smooth application.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-10-21
- Publication Date
- 2026-03-20
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic products for skin care often transform into a granular texture and/or feel sticky, failing to provide effective anti-aging benefits.
A keratinous material care composition comprising C-glycosides and film-forming agents derived from vinyl ester monomers, with a weight ratio greater than 1, to prevent transformation into vermicelli and improve texture.
The composition delivers a non-sticky texture and provides anti-aging benefits to keratinous materials, such as human skin, reducing the formation of vermicelli and enhancing skin firmness.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITION AND METHOD FOR THE CARE OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a keratinous material care composition. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Human skin consists of three compartments, namely a superficial compartment, which is the epidermis, the dermis and a deep compartment, which is the hypodermis.
[0003] The dermis is primarily composed of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix (ECM). This extracellular matrix consists of various macromolecules responsible for the skin's mechanical resistance, suppleness, tone, and elasticity, as well as physiologically important functions (hydration, thermoregulation, and regulation of skin permeability). These macromolecules include, in particular, collagens, elastin, and glycoconjugates (glycoproteins and proteoglycans).
[0004] Collagens represent 70% of the proteins in the ECM. Naturally, collagens are constantly renewed, but this renewal decreases with age, resulting in thinning of the dermis.
[0005] A wide variety of cosmetic products are used to care for the skin, for example, to combat skin aging by incorporating active anti-aging ingredients. However, some cosmetic products on the market are unsatisfactory because they may present an obvious problem of turning into granular texture and / or lead to a sticky feeling.
[0006] Thus, there is always a need to formulate a composition for the care of keratinous materials, which does not have an obvious problem of transformation into vermicelli and / or sticky sensation. Summary of the invention
[0007] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop a keratinous material care composition, which does not have an obvious problem of transformation into vermicelli and / or sticky sensation.
[0008] Another object of the present invention is to propose a non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials.
[0009] Consequently, in a first aspect, the present invention proposes a composition comprising the following components: a. at least one C-glycoside; and b. at least one film-forming agent selected from copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one vinyl ester monomer and optionally at least one vinyl-based monomer other than vinyl ester monomers,
[0010] in which the weight ratio between component a) and component b) is greater than 1.
[0011] The inventors have discovered that the composition of the present invention presents fewer problems of transformation into vermicelli and / or can deliver a relatively better sensation in terms of sticky texture.
[0012] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one C-glycoside and can therefore be used to deliver an anti-aging effect to keratinous materials.
[0013] In a second aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratinous materials.
[0014] Other subjects, features, aspects, and advantages of the present invention will be presented in the following description and will be partly evident from the description or may be learned through practice of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0015] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention, the definition described herein shall apply.
[0016] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, in particular, in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".
[0017] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
[0018] Throughout this application, the term "including" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the features specifically mentioned as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "including" also discloses the embodiment in which no any feature other than the features specifically mentioned is present (i.e., "consisting of").
[0019] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Consequently, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which, if necessary, can be changed according to the desired purpose.
[0020] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratinous materials" is intended to cover human skin and mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is considered in particular according to the present invention.
[0021] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.
[0022] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises: a. at least one C-glycoside; and b. at least one film-forming agent selected from copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one vinyl ester monomer and optionally at least one vinyl-based monomer other than vinyl ester monomers,
[0023] in which the weight ratio between component a) and component b) is greater than 1. C-glycosides
[0024] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one C-glycoside.
[0025] Preferably, the C-glycoside is chosen from compounds of formula (I): (I) S---' ©
[0026] in which:
[0027] - R represents a saturated alkyl radical in the C1 to C10, in particular in the C1 to C4, which can optionally be substituted by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR"2, R"2 being a saturated CrC4 alkyl radical,
[0028] - S represents a monosaccharide or polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar motifs, in particular up to 6 sugar motifs, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, knowing that said monosaccharide or polysaccharide may be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional groups, and
[0029] - X represents a radical chosen from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and in particular a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-,
[0030] - the S-CH2-X bond represents a C-anomeric bond, which can be a or [3, and also their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates, and their optical and geometric isomers.
[0031] The C-glycosides used for the implementation of the invention are in particular those for which R designates a linear alkyl radical saturated in Ci-C6, in particular in Ci-C4, preferably in CrC2 and more preferably, a methyl radical.
[0032] In particular, alkyl groups suitable for implementing the invention include methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl.
[0033] According to one embodiment of the invention, a C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) can be used, for which S can represent a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 6 sugar motifs, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide having at least one necessarily free hydroxyl functional group and / or optionally one or more necessarily protected amine functional groups, X and R otherwise retaining all the above definitions.
[0034] Advantageously, a monosaccharide of the invention can be chosen from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose or L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and advantageously designates D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose and in particular D-xylose.
[0035] More particularly, a polysaccharide of the invention comprising up to 6 sugar motifs can be selected from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a disaccharide combining a uronic acid selected from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide comprising at least one xylose which can advantageously be selected from xylobiose, methyl-[3-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose, and in particular xylobiose, which is composed of two xylose molecules linked via a 1-4 bond.
[0036] More particularly, S can represent a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose or D-maltose and in particular D-xylose.
[0037] Preferably, a C-glycoside of formula (I) is used, for which:
[0038] - R denotes an alkyl radical in the C1-C4 configuration, in particular a linear unsubstituted C1-C2, including a methyl radical;
[0039] - S represents a monosaccharide as described above and chosen in particular among D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
[0040] - X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and, of preferably a -CH(OH)- group.
[0041] Acceptable salts of the compounds described in the present invention include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. Examples include salts of inorganic acids such as sulfuric acid and hydrochloric acid. Examples also include salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic, or phosphonic acid groups. In particular, examples include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid.
[0042] When the compound of formula (I) comprises an acid group, the neutralization of the acid group(s) can be carried out with an inorganic base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH)2, NH4OH, Mg(OH)2, or Zn(OH)2, or with an organic base, such as a primary, secondary, or tertiary alkylamine, for example, triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary, or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and may therefore comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functional groups; examples include 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2-(dimethylamino)propanol, or 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol. Lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine may also be mentioned.
[0043] Solvates that are acceptable for the compounds described in the present invention include conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final stage of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Examples include solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.
[0044] Of course, according to the invention, a C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) can be used alone or in a mixture with other C-glycosides and in any proportion.
[0045] A C-glycoside suitable for the invention can in particular be obtained by the synthesis process described in document WO 02 / 051828.
[0046] By way of non-limiting illustration of C-glycoside compounds that are particularly suitable for the invention, the following compounds may be cited in particular:
[0047] - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
[0048] - C-a-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
[0049] - C-P-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,
[0050] - C-a-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,
[0051] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,
[0052] - l-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,
[0053] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,
[0054] - l-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,
[0055] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0056] - l-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0057] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0058] - l-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0059] - l-(C-[3-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0060] - l-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0061] - l-(C-[3-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0062] - l-(CaD-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0063] - l-(C-[3-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,
[0064] - l-(CaD-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,
[0065] - l-(C-[3-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,
[0066] - l-(CaL-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,
[0067] - CPD-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
[0068] - CaD-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
[0069] - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,
[0070] - CaD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers, and mixtures thereof.
[0071] According to one embodiment, C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and even better C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane can be advantageously used for the composition according to the invention.
[0072] Most preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane (or hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol).
[0073] Advantageously, the C-glycoside is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 18% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 2% by weight to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Film-forming
[0074] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one film-forming agent selected from copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least a vinyl ester monomer and optionally at least one vinyl-based monomer other than vinyl ester monomers.
[0075] As used herein, the expression "vinyl ester monomer" refers to an ester monomer derived from an olefin or an alcohol containing an olefinic bond and a carboxylic acid.
[0076] Preferably, said vinyl ester monomer is selected from vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, vinyl butyrate (or butanoate), vinyl ethylhexanoate, vinyl neonanoate, vinyl neododecanoate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl cyclohexanoate, vinyl benzoate, vinyl 4-tert-butylbenzoate and vinyl trifluoroacetate, preferably vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate and vinyl neodecanoate.
[0077] As used herein, the expression "vinyl-based monomer different from vinyl ester monomers" refers to a monomer containing an olefinic bond and different from vinyl ester monomers.
[0078] Preferably, the vinyl-based monomer other than vinyl ester monomers is chosen from (meth)acrylates, crotonates, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyridine, vinylimidazole, vinylcaprolactam, methacrylamide, acrylonitrile and styrene, preferably vinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyridine, vinylcaprolactam and styrene.
[0079] Preferably, the film-forming agent is chosen from copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one vinyl ester monomer chosen from vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate and vinyl neodecanoate, and optionally from at least one vinyl-based monomer chosen from (meth)acrylates, crotonates, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyridine, vinylcaprolactam and styrene.
[0080] More preferably, the film-forming agent is chosen from copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one vinyl ester monomer chosen from vinyl acetate and vinyl neodecanoate, and optionally from at least one vinyl-based monomer chosen from crotonates, vinylpyrrolidone and vinylcaprolactam.
[0081] More preferably, the film-forming agent is chosen from poly(l-vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl co-acetate), vinyl acetate / crotonates / vinyl neodecanoate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
[0082] Poly(l-vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl co-acetate) is a copolymer of vinyl acetate and N-vinylpyrrolidone and is also called VP / VA copolymer.
[0083] The vinyl acetate / crotonates / vinyl neodecanoate copolymer is a copolymer of vinyl acetate, crotonates and vinyl neodecanoate.
[0084] Most preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises poly(l-vinylpyrrolidone-co-vinyl acetate).
[0085] Advantageously, the film-forming agent is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably of 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 5% by weight, even more preferably 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0086] The inventors have found that, with the presence of the film-forming agent chosen from among the copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one vinyl ester monomer and optionally of at least one vinyl-based monomer different from the vinyl ester monomers, a composition comprising a C-glycoside will not have a problem of transformation into vermicelli when the weight ratio between C-glycoside and the film-forming agent is greater than 1.
[0087] Advantageously, the weight ratio between the C-glycoside and the film-forming agent ranges from 1.5 to 20, preferably from 2 to 17, more preferably from 3 to 15. Additional polymers
[0088] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more additional polymers selected from polysaccharides, acrylate polymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0089] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polysaccharides" is understood to mean a polymer made up of sugar motifs.
[0090] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "sugar motif" is intended to mean a hydrocarbon-based compound bearing oxygen containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and comprising at least 4 carbon atoms.
[0091] The sugar motifs can optionally be modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.
[0092] The sugar motifs that can be included in the polysaccharide are preferably derived from one or more of the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.
[0093] Preferably, the polysaccharide is chosen from native gums such as gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, tragacanth gum, agar, alginates, carrageenans, furcellaranes, guar gum, locust bean gum, fenugreek gum, tamarind gum, konjac gum, xanthan gum, gellan gum, scleroglucan gum, and mixtures thereof.
[0094] More preferably, the polysaccharide thickener is chosen from xanthan gum, gellan gum, scleroglucan gum, and mixtures thereof.
[0095] As used herein, the expression "acrylate polymers" includes crosslinked or noncrosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or their salts and esters.
[0096] Preferably, the acrylate polymer is chosen from among acrylate copolymers comprising:
[0097] - at least one motif derived from olefinically carboxylic acid monomers unsaturated of formula (I): R y O
[0098] wherein Ri is chosen from the group consisting of: H, CH3, and C2H5, (which correspond respectively to acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and ethacrylic acid motifs), and
[0099] - at least one motif derived from alkyl esters (Ci0-C30) of acid monomers olefinically unsaturated carboxylic acids of formula (II): ÇQR, (iiij Ra O
[0100] in which R2 is chosen from the group consisting of: H, CH3 and C2H5 (which correspond respectively to acrylate, methacrylate and ethacrylate motifs), and R3 is a linear or branched alkyl group (Ci0-C30).
[0101] Alkyl esters (Ci0-C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acids according to the present invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.
[0102] An acrylate copolymer of this type is for example described and prepared according to US patents Nos. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949, the disclosures of which are incorporated by reference herein.
[0103] Preferably, the acrylate polymer is chosen from those formed from a mixture of monomers comprising: a. acrylic acid, b. at least one ester of formula (II) described above in which R2 is chosen from H and CH3, and R3 is chosen from alkyl groups comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and c. at least one crosslinking agent selected from copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomers such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.
[0104] More preferably, the acrylate polymer is chosen from (the % being given relative to the total weight of the respective copolymers):
[0105] - copolymers comprising from 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (motif hydrophilic), 4% to 40% by weight of alkyl acrylate in C10-C30 (hydrophobic motif), and 0% to 6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinkable monomer such as those described above, and
[0106] - copolymers comprising from 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (motif hydrophilic), 1% to 4% by weight of alkyl acrylate in Ci0-C30 (hydrophobic motif) and 0% to 0.6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinkable monomer such as those described above.
[0107] Among the above acrylate polymers, the products sold by the Lubrizol company under the trade names PEMULEN TRI®, PEMULEN TR2® and CARBOPOL 1382® can be used.
[0108] More preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more additional polymers selected from xanthan gum, a crosslinked acrylic acid / alkyl acrylate polymer in C10-C30, and mixtures thereof.
[0109] Advantageously, the additional polymer is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, even more preferably from 0.15% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase
[0110] The composition of the present invention may include an aqueous phase.
[0111] Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises water.
[0112] Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 50% by weight to 99% by weight, preferably from 70% by weight to 90% by weight, more preferably from 80% by weight to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0113] Optionally, the aqueous phase comprises a water-miscible organic solvent (at room temperature at 25 °C) selected from monoalcohols, glycols and polyols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof.
[0114] Advantageously, the aqueous phase is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 60% by weight to 99% by weight, preferably from 70% by weight to 90% by weight, more preferably from 80% by weight to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional cosmetic active ingredients
[0115] The composition of the present invention may include an additional cosmetic active ingredient in addition to the cosmetic active ingredients as defined above.
[0116] A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and quantity of additional cosmetic active ingredients according to the end use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives
[0117] The composition of the present invention may also include conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, perfumes, chelating agents, preservatives and bactericides, surfactants, thickeners, pH regulators, and mixtures thereof.
[0118] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
[0119] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention proposes a composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. from 2% by weight to 12% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; b. 0.5% by weight to 3% by weight of poly(l-vinylpyrrolidone-co-vinyl acetate); and
[0120] the weight ratio between hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol and poly(l-vinylpyrrolidone-co-vinyl acetate) ranges from 3 to 15. pharmaceutical form and process
[0121] The composition of the present invention is in the form of an emulsion, a cream, a lotion or a hydrogel, and can be used as a toner, a lotion, a light cream, a nourishing cream, a night mask or an eye cream.
[0122] The composition of the present invention can be used for the care of keratinous materials, such as skin. In particular, the composition of the present invention can deliver an anti-aging effect and an instant firming effect.
[0123] According to the second aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratinous materials.
[0124] In certain embodiments, the present invention proposes an anti-aging process for the skin, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the skin. EXAMPLES
[0125] The following examples are given by way of non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.
[0126] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.
[0127] [Tables] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol (Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol 1) MEXORYL SDL NOVEAL VP / VA Copolymer (VP / VA copolymer) LUVISKOL VA 64 POWDER BASF Xanthan Gum (Xanthan gum) KELTROL CG-T CP KELCO C10-30 Alkyl Acrylates / Acrylates Crosspolymer (Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylates Crosspolymer) PEMULEN TR-1 POLYMER LUBRIZOL Dimethicone (Dimethicone) BELSIL DM 10 WACKER Dimethicone (and) polysilicone-11 (Dimethicone (and) polysilicone-11) GRANSIL DMG-6L C GRANT INDUSTRI ES Inventive Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2
[0128] Compositions of the example of the invention (El) 1 and comparative examples (EC) 1 and 2 were prepared on the basis of the quantities of components given in Table 2. The quantities are given as a percentage by weight of each component relative to the total weight of the composition, MA meaning active material.
[0129] [Tables2] Components El. 1 EC. 1 EC. 2 Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol (Hydro 10.5 10.5 10.5 hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol) (MA) (MA) (MA) VP / VA copolymer (VP / VA copolymer) 1 0 11 Xanthan gum (Xanthan gum) 0.2 0.2 0.2 C10-30 alkyl acrylate / acrylic crosspolymer (Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) 0.2 0.2 0.2 Dimethicone (Dimethicone) 2 2 2 Dimethicone (and) polysilicone-11 (Dimethic one (and) polysilicone-11) 2 2 2 Sodium hydroxide (Sodium hydroxide) 0.3 0.3 0.3 Water (Water) QS100 QS100 QS100
[0130] The composition of inventive example 1 represents a composition according to the present invention.
[0131] The composition of comparative example 1 does not include at least one film-forming agent selected from copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one vinyl ester monomer and optionally of at least one vinyl-based monomer different from vinyl ester monomers.
[0132] The composition of comparative example 2 comprises at least one C-glycoside and at least one film-forming agent selected from copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one vinyl ester monomer and optionally of at least one vinyl-based monomer different from vinyl ester monomers in a weight ratio of less than 1.
[0133] Preparation process:
[0134] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows: 1. Addition of a premix of dimethicone (and) polysilicone-11 in dimethicone, xanthan gum and C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer in water in a main autoclave with agitation and well emulsified, 2. Addition of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol and VP / VA copolymer, if applicable, to the main autoclave with agitation. 3. Neutralization with sodium hydroxide to a target pH of 6. Evaluation
[0135] The compositions prepared above were evaluated in terms of sticky texture and the problem of transformation into vermicelli as follows. Sticky texture
[0136] The sticky texture was evaluated by 6 skin experts by applying 0.2 g of the test composition to the inside of the arm in 15 passes. When the test composition was completely dry, the sticky texture was rated by 6 skin experts according to the following standard:
[0137] 1: non-sticky
[0138] 2: slightly sticky
[0139] 3: moderately sticky
[0140] 4: very sticky
[0141] 5: super sticky
[0142] The scores for sticky texture were averaged for each composition tested and summarized in Table 3. Problem of transformation into vermicelli
[0143] The problem of transformation into vermicelli was evaluated at 22 ± 2 °C and 50 ± 10% humidity on 6 Chinese volunteers aged 25 to 45 years with a balanced skin type by a trained facial expert.
[0144] The faces of the volunteers had each test composition applied by the aforementioned trained facial expert using the same criteria and techniques. The state of transformation into vermicelli, including the sizes and quantities of vermicelli, was observed immediately after application of the test compositions and 10 minutes after application of the test compositions. The degree of transformation into vermicelli was noted for each volunteer by the trained facial expert according to the following standard:
[0145] 0: few or no vermicelli were observed;
[0146] 1: slight vermicelli were observed;
[0147] 2: more vermicelli were observed.
[0148] The scores for the vermicelli transformation problem were averaged for each test composition and summarized in Table 3.
[0149] [Tables3] Properties El. 1 EC. 1 EC.2 Sticky texture score 1.2 1.3 4.15 Vermicelli transformation score 0.5 1.0 ND
[0150] ND: not determined.
[0151] Table 3 shows that the composition of inventive example 1 has less sticky texture compared to the compositions of comparative examples 1 and 2 and less problem of transformation into vermicelli compared to the composition of comparative example 1.
Claims
Demands
1. Composition comprising the following components: a) at least one C-glycoside; and b) at least one film-forming agent selected from copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one vinyl ester monomer and optionally at least one vinyl-based monomer other than vinyl ester monomers, wherein the weight ratio between component a) and component b) is greater than 1.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the C-glycoside is selected from compounds of formula (I): XR (I) in which: - R represents a saturated C1 to C1 alkyl radical, in particular C1 to C4, which may optionally be substituted by at least one radical selected from OH, COOH or COOR'2, R'2 being a saturated C1-C4 alkyl radical, - S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, wherein said monosaccharide or polysaccharide may be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional groups, and - X represents a radical selected from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and in particular a radical -CO-,-CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-, - the S-CH2-X bond represents a C-anomeric bond, which can be α or [3], as well as their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates and their optical and geometric isomers.
3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2, wherein the C-glycoside is present in an amount from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 18% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 2% by weight to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the vinyl ester monomer for the film-forming agent is selected from vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, vinyl butyrate (or butanoate), vinyl ethylhexanoate, vinyl neononanoate, vinyl neododecanoate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl cyclohexanoate, vinyl benzoate, vinyl 4-tert-butylbenzoate and vinyl trifluoroacetate, and the vinyl-based monomer other than the vinyl ester monomers is selected from (meth)acrylates, crotonates, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyridine, vinylimidazole, vinylcaprolactam, methacrylamide, acrylonitrile and styrene; Preferably, the film-forming agent is chosen from copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one vinyl ester monomer chosen from vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate and vinyl neodecanoate,and optionally of at least one vinyl-based monomer selected from (meth)acrylates, crotonates, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyridine, vinylcaprolactam and styrene; more preferably, the film-forming agent is selected from copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one vinyl ester monomer selected from vinyl acetate and vinyl neodecanoate, and optionally of at least one vinyl-based monomer selected from crotonates, vinylpyrrolidone and vinylcaprolactam; even more preferably, the film-forming agent is selected from poly(l-vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl co-acetate), vinyl acetate / crotonates / vinyl neodecanoate copolymer, and mixtures thereof; most preferably, the composition comprises poly(l-vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl co-acetate).
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the film-forming agent is present in an amount from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the weight ratio between component a) and component b) is from 1.5 to 20, preferably from 2 to 17, more preferably from 3 to
7. 1J. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, in relation to the total weight of the composition: (a) from 2% by weight to 12% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; (b) from 0.5% by weight to 3% by weight of poly(l-vinylpyrrolidone-co-vinyl acetate); and the weight ratio of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol to poly(l-vinylpyrrolidone-co-vinyl acetate) is from 3 to 15.
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising one or more additional polymers selected from polysaccharides, acrylate polymers, and mixtures thereof.
9. Composition according to claim 8, wherein the additional polymer is present in an amount from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight, even more preferably from 0.15% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. Non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on keratinous materials.