COSMETIC COMPOSITION RICH IN OMEGA 3, 6, 7, 9 FATTY ACIDS, BETA CAROTENE AND VITAMIN E FOR SKIN PROTECTION AGAINST OXIDATIVE STRESS

A cosmetic composition with specific ingredients synergistically stimulates sirtuin-1 and maintains skin microbiota balance to combat oxidative stress-induced skin aging, enhancing skin health and appearance.

FR3167057A1Pending Publication Date: 2026-04-10GAGICK LAETITIA
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Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
GAGICK LAETITIA
Filing Date
2024-10-07
Publication Date
2026-04-10

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetic products are inadequate in combating skin aging caused by oxidative stress and maintaining skin microbiota balance, leading to visible signs such as wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and dehydration.

Method used

A cosmetic composition comprising apricot kernel oil, carrot root extracts, jojoba oil, carrot hydrosol, orange blossom water, sea buckthorn berry extracts, and other ingredients, which synergistically stimulate sirtuin-1 synthesis and maintain skin microbiota balance, providing protection against oxidative stress.

Benefits of technology

The composition effectively protects the skin from oxidative stress-induced aging by activating sirtuin-1 and restoring the skin microbiota balance, reducing wrinkles and improving skin hydration and elasticity.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

USE OF A COSMETIC COMPOSITION RICH IN FATTY ACIDS, BETA CAROTENE AND VITAMIN E FOR SKIN PROTECTION AGAINST OXIDATIVE STRESS The present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition comprising, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, between 4 and 6% apricot kernel oil, between 3 and 8% carrot root extract, between 8 and 12% jojoba oil, between 25 and 35% carrot aerial parts hydrosol, between 8 and 12% orange blossom floral water, between 0.1 and 0.5% orange essential oil, between 0.1 and 0.5% wheat germ oil, between 0.1 and 0.5% sea buckthorn berry extract, and between 15 and 35% water, to protect the skin against oxidative stress and preventing and / or delaying the signs of aging induced by oxidative stress. [Fig.1]
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Description

Title of the invention: COSMETIC COMPOSITION RICH IN OMEGA 3, 6, 7, 9 FATTY ACIDS, BETA CAROTENE AND VITAMIN E FOR SKIN PROTECTION AGAINST OXIDATIVE STRESS TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics and concerns the use of a cosmetic composition to protect the skin against oxidative stress responsible for the appearance of signs of skin aging.

[0002] TECHNOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

[0003] The skin is a complex organ composed of three layers of tissue: the epidermis, the dermis, and the hypodermis. The skin's essential function is to form a barrier against external aggressions. However, beyond simple protection, the appearance of the skin plays an important role in self-esteem.

[0004] Numerous visible clinical signs testify to its alteration or modification over time, which may result either from the natural aging process, or from a process of premature aging due to harmful environmental factors such as UV rays or pollution, or due to lifestyle such as, for example, tobacco use or poor diet.

[0005] In particular, oxidation reactions, or oxidative stress, resulting from exposure to these harmful factors accelerate the skin aging process.

[0006] Oxidation is a normal process in the life of cells. This oxidation creates free radicals which, in the skin, damage membrane lipids, degrade extracellular matrix proteins such as collagen and elastin, and impair the skin's barrier function. This phenomenon ultimately leads to the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines, and a loss of skin elasticity, resulting in an unsightly appearance. Epidermal cells are able to defend themselves naturally against this oxidation, but this defense diminishes with age. Exposure to the aforementioned environmental factors also increases the level of oxidative stress.

[0007] To combat premature skin aging, or to slow down its natural aging, maintenance and care of the skin using effective and suitable cosmetic products is necessary.

[0008] It is in this context that the applicant company conducted its research and discovered that the combination of different ingredients made it possible to effectively combat skin aging by protecting it from oxidative stress, through its action on two essential factors, the stimulation of the expression of key proteins and the maintenance of a healthy skin microbiota.

[0009] The skin microbiota plays a crucial role in protecting the skin and maintaining its appearance. The skin microbiota, or skin flora, is an invisible layer on the skin's surface, composed primarily of bacteria but also of other microorganisms such as yeasts and fungi. On average, there are 1 million microorganisms per cm² and several hundred different species. Beyond its protective function, recent studies demonstrate a link between the composition of the microbiota and the skin aging process. For example, transepidermal water loss due to a microbiota imbalance dries out the skin and accelerates its aging. Again, factors such as environmental factors and lifestyle generate oxidative stress, which disrupts the microbiota and impacts the skin's appearance.

[0010] Sirtuins are skin longevity proteins involved in mechanisms that prevent skin aging. They are commonly referred to as "youth proteins." In particular, sirtuin 1 (SIRT1) activates cellular longevity mechanisms to preserve cell integrity and the ability of cells to renew themselves. However, environmental factors significantly affect their synthesis, thereby accelerating premature aging.

[0011] OBJECTIVES OF THE INVENTION

[0012] The present invention thus aims to provide a composition for the care and treatment of the skin, to protect the skin against oxidative stress and to prevent, delay or reduce the signs of skin aging, such as wrinkles, fine lines, loss of firmness, elasticity and dehydration, induced by oxidative stress, such stress being generated following exposure to environmental factors such as UV or pollution.

[0013] The present invention also aims to propose a composition to maintain the balance of the microbiota present on the surface of the skin and likely to be modified following exposure to oxidative stress. Description of the invention

[0014] The present invention thus relates to the use of a composition comprising, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0015] Between 4 and 6% apricot kernel oil,

[0016] Between 3 and 8% carrot root extracts,

[0017] Between 8 and 12% jojoba oil,

[0018] Between 25 and 35% hydrosol of aerial parts of carrots,

[0019] Between 8 and 12% orange blossom floral water,

[0020] Between 0.1 and 0.5% orange essential oil,

[0021] Between 0.1 and 0.5% wheat germ oil,

[0022] Between 0.1 and 0.5% sea buckthorn berry extracts,

[0023] Between 15 and 35% water,

[0024] To protect the skin against oxidative stress and to prevent and / or delay the signs of aging induced by oxidative stress.

[0025] In particular, the invention relates to the use of such a composition to stimulate the synthesis of sirtuins-1 at the cutaneous level and / or maintain or restore the balance of the cutaneous flora, following exposure to oxidative stress.

[0026] As will be demonstrated by the following examples, in vitro tests have been conducted and have shown that the composition according to the invention protects cells when exposed to a source of oxidative stress by activating the synthesis of cutaneous Sirtuins.

[0027] In parallel, a significant effect on maintaining the skin microbiota has been demonstrated. The combination of fatty acids in the formula effectively helps to preserve a healthy microbiome and reverse its imbalance when exposed to environmental stress conditions, such as oxidative stress.

[0028] Furthermore, a probiotic-like effect of the formula has been demonstrated. This property is surprising because the formula does not contain any ingredient exhibiting such activity. It is therefore an effect likely resulting from the synergy of its constituent ingredients. By comparison, it should be noted that currently available cosmetic formulas incorporate active ingredients for their probiotic, prebiotic, and postbiotic activities in order to demonstrate a beneficial effect on the balance of the skin microbiome. In the context of this invention, it is the synergy of the ingredients that develops the probiotic-like activity.

[0029] In conclusion, the composition according to the invention implements effective measures for protecting the skin against oxidative stress following exposure to factors causing such stress and is useful for combating skin damage related to oxidative stress.

[0030] Advantageously, the composition comprises at least 15% of omega 3, 6, 7 and 9 fatty acids, preferably between 15 and 25%, more preferably between 19 and 21%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0031] More specifically, the fatty acid composition includes, as an omega 3 fatty acid, linolenic acid, as an omega 6 fatty acid, palmitoleic acid, as an omega 9 fatty acid, oleic acid, eicosenoic acid, erucic acid and nervonic acid.

[0032] Preferably, the composition has the following fatty acid profile:

[0033] An omega-7 fatty acid content of between 0.10 and 0.30%,

[0034] An omega-3 fatty acid content of between 0.05 and 1.00%,

[0035] An omega-6 fatty acid content of between 3.00 and 4.00%,

[0036] An omega-9 fatty acid content of between 13.00 and 15%

[0037] As a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] The fatty acid composition may also include, in addition, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arachidic acid.

[0039] Advantageously, the composition comprises at least 0.001% of vitamin E, preferably between 0.001 and 0.003%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0040] Advantageously, the composition comprises at least 0.02% of carotenoids, preferably between 0.04 and 0.06%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0041] Preferably, carotenoids are a mixture of beta carotene and alpha carotene.

[0042] The composition used according to the invention thus presents an original combination of omega 3, 6, 7 and 9 acids, in a high proportion, of carotenoids and vitamin E. This combination of fatty acids, carotenoids and vitamin E in the composition thus makes it possible to obtain significant results in protecting the skin against the deleterious effects of oxidative stress related to time and exposure to environmental factors.

[0043] Omega-9 fatty acids represent the majority of fatty acids. External intake of these fatty acids is essential because the body cannot synthesize them. A deficiency in omega-9 fatty acids accelerates cell aging. Cell membranes lose their elasticity and permeability. Omega-9 fatty acids contribute to the youthfulness, elasticity, nutrition, and hydration of the skin. Among the omega-9 fatty acids, oleic acid is known for its nourishing properties. It strengthens the hydrolipidic film and helps the skin maintain its elasticity and suppleness. Erucic acid, for its part, plays an important role in maintaining the skin's elasticity and suppleness for proper hydration.

[0044] Omega-3 fatty acids are important structural components of cell membranes. They serve as precursors to bioactive lipid mediators and provide a source of energy.

[0045] Omega-6 fatty acids also play an important role in the skin. Linoleic acid, for example, is involved in the formation of cell membranes and participates in the replenishment of epidermal lipids. It ensures good cohesion between skin cells. Linoleic acid helps limit water loss from the skin and has softening and nourishing properties.

[0046] Omega-7 fatty acids have powerful moisturizing properties. Palmitoleic acid, for example, is one of the components of sebum. Omega-7s thus help maintain skin hydration and elasticity.

[0047] Carotenoids perform important functions in the skin. Carotenes, for example, are converted by the body into vitamin A, or retinol, which participates in cell renewal and stimulates the synthesis of collagen and fibroblasts. Carotenes also provide protection against UV radiation and pollution.

[0048] Advantageously, the composition used according to the invention further comprises at least one other compound or adjuvant such as an emulsifier, an emollient, a thickener, a surfactant, a preservative, in particular against oxidation of the composition, a perfume, a colorant, a filler, a pH corrector or any other cosmetically acceptable compound suitable for assisting in the formulation of the composition or its application.

[0049] According to one embodiment, the composition is in the form of a product for topical application such as a cream, oil, lotion, balm, mask, spray, mist, serum, ointment, gel, soap or any other form suitable for topical application.

[0050] The use according to the invention is a cosmetic use, that is to say, a non-therapeutic use aimed at preventing or correcting non-pathological alterations of the skin, i.e., modifying or improving the aesthetic appearance of the skin. The cosmetic use according to the invention therefore does not include the prevention or treatment of pathologies, in particular skin pathologies.

[0051] DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0052] Unless otherwise specified, percentages in this application are expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] The composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising the main ingredients described below.

[0054] MAIN INGREDIENTS OF THE FAT PHASE Apricot kernel oil

[0055] The composition comprises between 4 and 6% apricot kernel oil, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] INCI name: Prunus armeniaca kernel oil

[0057] Apricot kernel oil is an oily kernel extract obtained by cold pressing apricot kernels and is unrefined. In the context of the invention, the apricot kernel oil is organically grown.

[0058] Apricot kernel oil provides compounds from the kernels including fatty acids, in particular palmitic acid, oleic acid and linoleic acid.

[0059] The average fatty acid composition of apricot kernel oil is shown in Table 1.

[0060] [TAB. 1] Fatty acids % A-, Ci - S\ t b'' À:' it - W Ate 2 i Adde sséesws i M3X « i A s ki s- àkiisiysi i u-ss! ikSiCCieCSi i Mas 1 i Asidé ii ASids: S%é%ÇSAS%S i Mes 0% s AskA i 0.S Carrot root extracts

[0061] The composition comprises between 3 and 8% carrot root extracts, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0062] Carrot root extracts are preferably derived from a mixture of oily macerate of carrot roots enriched in beta carotene and an extract obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction of carrot roots.

[0063] Carrot root oil macerate:

[0064] INCI name: Helianthus annus seed oil, Daucus carota sativa root extract & beta carotene.

[0065] It is obtained by macerating carrot roots in a vegetable oil such as sunflower or olive oil. The extract is then preferably filtered and enriched with beta carotene (0.75%, total weight of the extract).

[0066] Such a macerate is rich in fatty acids, vitamin E and alpha and beta carotenes.

[0067] The average composition in fatty acids, vitamin E and beta-carotene of apricot kernel oil is shown in Table 2.

[0068] [TAB. 2] ACOSS SSAS % Acids pafeitiqs® 4-S% Acids 1-7% Acids béMfwe 1% «w Acid csieiw Acid iisïdsis^ 4S-74% ciWAr-s; E Beta

[0069] The oily macerate of carrot roots used preferably in the context of the invention is enriched in beta-carotene

[0070] It is present in an amount between 2 and 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] Supercritical CO2 extract of carrot roots:

[0072] INCI name: Simmondsia chinensis seed oil & Daucus carota sativa root extract & Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract

[0073] The extract is obtained through a high-performance extraction process from carrot roots. The extract is standardized with jojoba oil to achieve the desired carotene level. It is then stabilized with rosemary extract for its antioxidant properties.

[0074] Such an extract contains between 0.15 and 0.21% of carotenes (by weight, relative to the total weight of the extract) (alpha, beta, gamma, epsilon-carotenes) and also contains lycopene and traces of lipophilic flavones.

[0075] It is present in an amount between 1 and 3%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Jojoba oil

[0076] The composition comprises between 8 and 12% jojoba oil, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0077] INCI name: Simmondsia chinensis seed oil

[0078] The oil is obtained by cold pressing of healthy fruits, filtered.

[0079] Jojoba oil provides vitamin E and fatty acids, such as palmitic acid, oleic acid, eicosenoic acid, erucic acid, and nervonic acid. Furthermore, its composition is similar to natural sebum.

[0080] The average fatty acid and vitamin E composition of jojoba oil is shown in Table 3.

[0081] [TAB. 3] Sea buckthorn berry extracts

[0082] The composition comprises between 0.1 and 0.5% sea buckthorn berry extract, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] INCI name: Hippophae rhammoides fruit extract & Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract.

[0084] This is a supercritical CO2 extract of sea buckthorn berries.

[0085] Its composition consists mainly of fatty acids, particularly omega-7 fatty acids such as palmitoleic acid and vaccenic acid. It also contains carotenoids and tocopherols (vitamin E).

[0086] The average composition in fatty acids, vitamin E and carotenoids of the sea buckthorn berry extract is shown in Table 4.

[0087] [TAB. 4] FATTY ACIDS / A Palmitic acid Palmitideic acid (w 7) Oleic acid 20% Tocopherols 1% Carotenes Orange essential oil

[0088] The composition comprises between 0.1 and 0.5% of orange essential oil, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] INCI name: Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil.

[0090] Orange essential oil is obtained by cold pressing the fresh pericarps of the fruit. It is rich in limonene (93-97% in the total % of the oil) and in myrcene (1.5-3.5% in the total % of the oil). Wheat germ oil

[0091] The composition comprises between 0.1 and 0.5% wheat germ oil, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] INCI name: Triticum vulgare germ oil.

[0093] This oil is obtained from wheat germ, by pressing and subsequent refining.

[0094] Wheat germ oil provides fatty acids, such as palmitic acid, acid stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid.

[0095] The average fatty acid composition of the wheat germ extract is shown in Table 5.

[0096] [TAB. 5] FATTY ACIDS % Palmitic acid 6*22% Stearic acid 6% max Oieic acid 12-35% Linoleic acid 30-65% Linotenic acid 2-12% Concentrated tocopherols

[0097] The composition comprises between 0.15 and 0.25% of a tocopherol concentrate, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0098] INCI name: tocopherol

[0099] The tocopherols are supplied in the form of a concentrate comprising a mixture of alpha tocopherol, for a maximum of 20%, and other tocopherols, for a minimum of 80%, including gamma tocopherol, beta tocopherol, delta tocopherol (as a % of the total tocopherols).

[0100] MAIN INGREDIENT OF THE AQUEOUS PHASE Carrot aerial parts hydrosol

[0101] The composition comprises between 25 and 35% of aerial parts of carrot hydrosol, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0102] INCI name: Daucus carota sativa flower extract & limonene & gluconolactone & linalool & sodium benzoate & geraniol & calcium gluconate.

[0103] Wild carrot hydrosol is obtained by steam distillation of the seeded aerial part of the wild carrot. Orange blossom floral water

[0104] The composition comprises between 8 and 12% orange blossom floral water, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0105] INCI name: Citrus aurantium amara flower water & citric acid & potassium sorbate & linalool & limonene & famous sol & geraniol & citral.

[0106] Floral water is obtained from the steam distillation of orange blossoms. It is then filtered and stored. Water#:

[0107] The composition comprises between 15 and 35% water, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0108] OTHER INGREDIENTS

[0109] As mentioned previously, the composition may include, in its aqueous or oily phase, any other additional ingredient contributing to the preservation and stability of the composition over time, as well as any ingredient necessary during the formulation process.

[0110] MANUFACTURING METHOD

[0111] The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by any suitable process well known to those skilled in the art. This may, for example, be a process in which several phases, for example a phase comprising the lipophilic compounds and a phase comprising the hydrophilic compounds, are formulated and then mixed, for example using an emulsifier. It may also be a process using Phase Inversion Temperature.

[0112] The features of the invention mentioned above, as well as others, will become clearer upon reading the examples that follow.

[0113] [Fig-1]: illustration of the relative abundance of taxa at the genus level after 48h of treatment using the composition according to the invention.

[0114] [Fig.2]: illustration of the relative abundance of taxa at the species level after 48h of treatment using the composition according to the invention.

[0115] Example 1: Cosmetic composition for face and body care

[0116] Table 6 below lists the ingredients used to formulate a composition according to the invention.

[0117] [TAB. 6] Phase Name Material INCI UE % Material A HUILE DE N OYAUX ABR ICOTS PRUNUS ARMENIAC A KERNEL OIL 5,2 A MACERAT CAROTE HUI LEUX BIO HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL DAUCUS CAOTA SATIVA ROOT EXTRAC T BETA-CAROTENE 3,5 A HUILE JOJOB A BIO SIMMONDSIA CHIN SIS SEED OIL 10 A BIOXAN T50 TOCOPHEROL 0,2 A LANETTE 16 =CETYL ALCOHOL CETYL ALCOHOL 1,7 A CUTINA GM SV GLYCERYL STEARA TE 4 A EUMULGIN SG SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0,2 A MONTANOV 68MB CETEARYL ALCOHOL CETEARYL GLUCOSI DE 3 B HYDROLAT DE CAROTT E SAUVAGE BIO DAUCUS CAROTA SA TIVA FLOWER EXTRACT LIMONENE GLUCONOLACTONE LINALOOL SODIUM BENZOATE GERANIOL CALCIUM GLUCONA TE 27 B WATER FLORAL E DE FLEUR D'ORANGER BIO CITRUS AURANTIUM AMARA FLOWER WATER CITRIC ACID POTASSIUM SORBATE SODIUM BENZOATE LINALOOL LIMONENE FARNESOL GERANIOL CITRAL 10 B WATER PURIFYING E AQUA 25,303 B GLYCERINE GLYCERIN 2,5 D PARFUM CANNBERGE B PARFUM LIMONENE GERANIOL LINALOOL CITRAL CITRONELLOL BENZYL ALCOHOL 0,26 C EXTRAIT RA CINES CARR OTE CO2 SUP ERCRITIQUE SIMMONDSIA CHINE NSIS SEED OIL 1.5 JOJOB OIL A DAUCUS CAROTA SA TIVA ROOT EXTRAC T ROSMARINUS OFFIC INALIS LEAF EXTRA CT D HUILE ESSE NTIELLE OR ANGE BIO E C175 CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS PEEL OIL LIMONENE LIMONENE LIMONENE LIMONENE TRANSPORT EUGENOL CITRONELLOL 0.1 C WHEAT WHEAT GERMAN OIL 0.2 EC210 TRITICUM VULGARE GERM OIL 0.2 D DERMOSOFT 1388 ECO pH 5.5 AQUA GLYCERIN SODIUM LEVULINATED AND SODIUM ANISATE AND GREAT DENMINATE / 3. A-LEE N5 PENTYLENE GLYCO L 2 C EXTRAIT CO 2 SUPERCRIT UQE BIOLOGIQUE DE BERRIES D' ARGOUSIER HIPPOPHAE RHAMN OIDES FRUIT EXTRA CT ROSMARINUS OFFIC INALIS LEAF EXTRA CT 0 ACI DE QIT, CITRIC CITRIC 0.037 100 Operating Mode

[0118] The ingredients of phase A are pre-mixed; The oily phase A is then heated to the temperature of 75°C.

[0119] The ingredients of phase B are pre-mixed; the aqueous phase B is then heated to the temperature of 75°C.

[0120] The oily phase A is then incorporated into the aqueous phase B under agitation for 15 minutes in order to form the emulsion.

[0121] The emulsion is then cooled to 40°C in order to gradually incorporate the ingredients of phase C one by one.

[0122] At around 35°C, the ingredients of phase D, preservatives and perfume will then be incorporated.

[0123] The pH will be adjusted if necessary between 5 and 5.5 with the citric acid ingredient of phase E.

[0124] The composition in fatty acids, vitamin E and carotenes of the composition is indicated in Table 7 below.

[0125] [TAB. 7] FATTY ACIDS % in composition Myristic acid 0.02 Palmitic acid 1.00 Palmitoleic acid (w7) 0.25 Stearic acid 0.42 Oleic acid (w9) 5.11 Linoleic acid (w6) 3.50 Linolenic acid (w3) 0.07 Behenic acid 0.16 Eicosanoic acid (gadoleic) (w9) 7.03 Arachidic acid 0.23 Erucic acid (docosenoic) (w9) 1.50 Nervonic acid (w9) 0.30 Totals in % in composition 19.59 Vitamin E 1.44 mg / 100g of composition Carotenes of which: 41.00 mg / 100g of composition Alpha carotene 14.35 mg / 100g of composition Beta carotene 26.65 mg / 100g of composition

[0126] The composition in omega-3 (w3), omega-6 (w6), omega-7 (w7) and omega-9 (w9) fatty acids is shown in Table 8 below.

[0127] [TAB. 8] Omega type % in composition W7 0.25 W3 0.07 W6 3.50 W9 13.94

[0128] Example 2: Stimulation of SIRT1 cutaneous sirtuins by human fibroblasts

[0129] The ability of the composition according to example 1 to modulate the expression of Sirtuins (SIRT1) after exposure to hydrogen peroxide, H2O2, (oxidative stress), is evaluated in vitro on human fibroblasts.

[0130] The cells are cultured in DMEM culture medium for 24h and then exposed to hydrogen peroxide, H2O2(150 pM), and finally treated for 72 H with the composition according to ex.l at 3 different concentrations: 0.05%; 0.1% and 0.2% (dilution in DMEM culture medium).

[0131] SIRT1 levels are measured by fluorescence. Comparison is made with a Negative Control (CTR-) in which the cells do not receive any oxidizing agent in order to calculate the baseline level of SIRT1 present in the cells and a Positive Control (CTR+) in which the cells are exposed to the stressor and have not been treated with the composition according to the invention.

[0132] Results:

[0133] The results are expressed in Table 9 and in [Fig. 1].

[0134] [TAB. 9] S!RT1 SXPRESSiON 7ïiX>urs % Protection CTR- 3.04 5.025 5.82 0.542 ¢.20¾ 33.5% a.œ 333)% 0.05% 2.7? C\S2 <j 284% *

[0135] When cells are exposed to oxidative stress, SIRT1 expression decreases significantly. Cells treated with the formula at the 3 concentrations (0.05%, 0.1% and 0.2%) activate SIRT1 expression at the same level as cells not treated with the oxidizing agent (CRT-) and at significantly higher levels than cells treated with the oxidizing agent (CRT+).

[0136] In conclusion, the composition according to the invention modulates the cellular response to oxidative stress by significantly increasing the concentration of SIRT1 cutaneous Sirtuins.

[0137] Example 2: Rebalancing the human microbiome

[0138] The ability of the composition according to example 1 to rebalance the skin microbiome after exposure to oxidative stress was evaluated. Probiotic-like activity was also demonstrated.

[0139] In vitro reconstructed human epidermis was inoculated with human skin microbiota from volunteers, then exposed to oxidative stress (H2O2) and treated with the composition of Example 1.

[0140] The skin microbiota was collected using swabs and analyzed using 16S rRNA analysis.

[0141] The experimental protocol included: - an untreated epidermis inoculated with the skin microbiota: Negative control C- - an untreated epidermis, inoculated with the skin microbiota and exposed to oxidative stress (H2O2): Negative control C+ - an epidermis inoculated with the skin microbiota, treated with the formula and then exposed to oxidative stress (H2O2): P

[0142] The biological model used is a human epidermis reconstructed in 3 dimensions from keratinocyte cultures. This system has an ultrastructure very similar to healthy human skin in vivo (morphology and thickness).

[0143] Results:

[0144] Figures 2 and 3 illustrate the comparison between the epidermis treated with the composition according to example 1 and the untreated epidermis, 48 ​​h after exposure to hydrogen peroxide (Relative abundance of taxa at the genus level: [Fig.2]; Relative abundance of taxa at the species level: [Fig.3]).

[0145] At the level of genera and species, the microbial composition of an epidermis treated with the composition according to the invention and subjected to oxidative stress (P) is more similar to that of the negative control C- (no treatment) than to that of the positive control C+ (treatment with H2O2 only).

[0146] Table 10 below shows the results of the relative abundance and LEfSe analysis of the most abundant genera and their taxonomic relatives.

[0147] [TAB. 10] SPEHES c- F WA score $ stf AKC 692¾ 5.80¾ 1.43¾. 293¾ 05655? 533 : si: ATCC 13828- 0.19% œ 0.H% 033356 303 ; <■ 33 6.44¾ 005¾ 0.51155 3341 0.x 19$ 0.65¾ 00691 9.285:33 338 : 9.19% 3.05f.4H 177 : 16.5396 0.11% 22.21% 3 24 E 02* 533 ? <: 15¾ 674¾ 3 06 : sir 0.13% 0.35¾ 344^-31 ?î.t<8 ; (.-..3 73 •V 4.74 : x 7.56%:% .•> «a : ^ideiwkiwwr AICC W99O 53.26% 75.13% 2.54g 31 VàQ î «sphv <Jtpj as '+f 355S8 <16 0 29"- 4.2S ICM ■ 76 945% 04i%: 412 : Stachytoccccus ncmms str DSM 2ÜS28 0 22 . ce* J SS" 4 Slt-Cr 5.17 ! 3 245¾ 5 24-a 2* 5.15 9.14¾ > ! w 036% z >:'i: .■tf i.C».' 6<03 0.37¾ ? zs< S . fiï z.2 / ' : P. .r* A ? • .. .'•> y

[0148] Among the most abundant species, Corynebacterium tuberculostearicum, Staphylococcus caprae, and Staphylococcus hominis exhibit statistically significant population differences under the three conditions (C-, C+, P). Of these species, only Corynebacterium and Staphylococcus hominis show significantly higher abundance values ​​in samples treated with the composition according to the invention and exposed to oxidative stress.

[0149] From Figures 1, [Fig. 2] and Table 10, it can be seen that the enriched tissue of the whole microbiome exposed to oxidative stress alone (C+) altered the composition of the microbial community, while the application of the composition according to the invention (P) restored its equilibrium. The composition according to the invention has a protective effect against oxidative stress by restoring the basal composition of the microbiome through probiotic-like activity on representative members such as Corynebacterium tuberculostearicum and Staphylococcus hominis.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition comprising, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, between 4 and 6% apricot kernel oil, between 3 and 8% carrot root extract, between 8 and 12% jojoba oil, between 25 and 35% carrot aerial parts hydrosol, between 8 and 12% orange blossom floral water, between 0.1 and 0.5% orange essential oil, between 0.1 and 0.5% wheat germ oil, between 0.1 and 0.5% sea buckthorn berry extract, between 15 and 35% water, for its use in protecting the skin against oxidative stress and preventing and / or delaying the signs of aging induced by oxidative stress.

2. Composition according to claim 1, for its use to stimulate the synthesis of sirtuins-1 at the cutaneous level and / or maintain or restore the balance of the cutaneous microbiota following exposure to oxidative stress.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the composition comprises at least 15% of a mixture of omega 3, omega 6, omega 7 and omega 9 fatty acids, preferably between 15 and 25%, more preferably between 19 and 21%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least 0.001% of vitamin E, preferably between 0.001 and 0.003%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least 0.02% of carotenoids, preferably between 0.04 and 0.06%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition has the following fatty acid profile: an omega-7 fatty acid content of between 0.10 and 0.30%, an omega-3 fatty acid content of between 0.05 and 1.00%, an omega-6 fatty acid content of between 3.00 and 4.00%, an omega-9 fatty acid content of between 13.00 and 15%, as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition further comprises at least one other compound or adjuvant such as an emulsifier, a preservative, an antioxidant, a perfume, a colorant, a solvent, a filler, a pH corrector.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is in the form of a product for topical application such as a cream, oil, lotion, balm, mask, spray, mist, serum, ointment, gel, soap.

Citation Information

Patent Citations

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