PROCESS FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS

Abstract

METHOD FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS The present invention relates to a method for treating, preferably cosmetically treating, and more preferably revitalizing, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the step of: applying to the keratinous fibers at least one composition comprising (a) at least one ester of polyol(s) and difatty acid dimer or one of its esters; and (b) at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups or one of its salts, wherein the composition comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, of (c) silicone(s), relative to the total weight of the composition. The method according to the present invention can provide keratinous fibers such as hair with good revitalizing effects, in particular a smooth texture, even though the composition does not comprise a substantial amount of silicone.Figure for the abridged version: none.

Description

Title of the invention: METHOD FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a treatment method, preferably a cosmetic treatment, and more preferably a revitalization method for keratinous fibers such as hair. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

[0002] In the field of hair cosmetics, hair revitalizing effects are very important properties. Various leave-in and rinse-out hair care cosmetic products are used for hair revitalization.

[0003] In order to enhance the above revitalizing effects, it is known to add silicones. Silicones, particularly aminosilicones, can effectively repair hair damage and, therefore, can provide hair revitalizing effects.

[0004] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed taking environmental issues into account, is becoming a major objective in an effort to meet global challenges.

[0005] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.

[0006] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable or sustainable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin.

[0007] Thus, in order to develop more durable conditioners, it is preferable to limit the use of silicones. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0008] There is a need for cosmetic processes for keratinous fibers, such as hair, without the aid of silicones which can be difficult to decompose in the environment.

[0009] An objective of the present invention is to propose a process for treating keratinous fibers such as hair which can offer keratinous fibers good cosmetic effects, preferably revitalizing effects, in particular a smooth texture, in which the process is substantially free from the use of silicones.

[0010] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a treatment process, preferably a cosmetic treatment, and more preferably a revitalization process for keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the step of:

[0011] application to keratinous fibers of at least one composition comprising a. at least one ester of polyol(s) and diacid fatty acid dimer or one of its esters; and b. at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups or one of its salts,

[0012] in which

[0013] the composition comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, of (c) silicone(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] The (a) polyol(s) and fatty acid dimer ester, or one of its esters, may be selected from the esters of

[0015] the following general formula (I):

[0016] Rs-OCO-R^-COO-Rz-OCO-RJn-COO-Rs (I)

[0017] in which:

[0018] - CORiCO represents a fatty acid dimer residue,

[0019] - OR2O represents a fatty alcohol dimer residue,

[0020] - OR3 represents a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue, and

[0021] - n is an integer from 1 to 15,

[0022] or

[0023] of the following general formula (II): HO—R\ — C —R',--CO—R\ )—OH ® ■ ' ' 1 p : n Oh

[0024] in which:

[0025] - n is an integer from 1 to 15,

[0026] - COR'iCO represents a fatty acid dimer residue,

[0027] - OR'2O represents a diglyceryl residue of the following general formula (III): —04CH—CH —CH —* O “CH—CH“Œ^ — X ; •< 2} < 9 9

[0028] in which:

[0029] - R'3 represents H or OR'3 represents a fatty acid residue,

[0030] or

[0031] of the following general formula (IV):

[0032] HO-R1-(-OCO-R2"-COO-R1"-)h-OH (IV)

[0033] in which:

[0034] - ORr'O represents a diol dimer residue obtained by the hydrogenation of an acid dilinoleic dimer

[0035] - COR2"CO represents a fatty acid dimer residue, and

[0036] - n represents an integer from 1 to 9.

[0037] The (a) polyol(s) and diacid fatty acid dimer ester, or one of its esters, may be selected from the group consisting of esters having the following INCI nomenclature: polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimerdilinoleate copolymer, bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

[0038] The quantity of the (a) polyol(s) and fatty acid dimer(s), or of its ester(s), in the composition used for the process according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] The (b) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups may be selected from an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups, preferably from a saturated aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups, and more preferably from a saturated aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups and two carboxyl groups.

[0040] The (b) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups may be tartaric acid.

[0041] The quantity of (b) hydroxycarboxylic acid(s) having two or more hydroxyl groups or of their salt(s) in the composition used for the process according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] The composition used for the process according to the present invention may further comprise (d) at least one fatty amine.

[0043] The (d) fatty amine can be chosen from among the fatty amidoamines, and preferably from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and one of their mixtures.

[0044] The quantity of the fatty amine(s) in the composition used for the process according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] The composition used for the process according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one fatty alcohol.

[0046] The (e) fatty alcohol may be chosen from the group consisting of stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and one of their mixtures.

[0047] The quantity of the fatty alcohol(s) in the composition used for the process according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] The present invention also relates to a treatment composition, preferably a cosmetic treatment, and more preferably a revitalization composition for keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising:

[0049] (a) at least one ester of polyol(s) and fatty acid dimer or one of its esters;

[0050] (b) at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups or one of its salts; and

[0051] (d) at least one fatty amine,

[0052] in which

[0053] the composition comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, of (c) silicone(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] The above composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a rinse-off cosmetic composition and, more preferably, a rinse-off hair cosmetic composition. Best embodiment of the invention

[0055] After extensive research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to propose a process for treating keratinous fibers such as hair which can offer keratinous fibers good cosmetic effects, preferably revitalizing effects, in particular a smooth texture, in which the process is substantially free from the use of silicones.

[0056] Thus, the method according to the present invention comprises the step of:

[0057] application to keratinous fibers of at least one composition comprising a. at least one ester of polyol(s) and diacid fatty acid dimer or one of its esters; and b. at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups or one of its salts,

[0058] in which

[0059] the composition comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, of (c) silicone(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] The silicone (c) in the composition used for the process according to the present invention is / are optional. Thus, the composition used for the process according to the present invention may or may not include the silicone (c).

[0061] If the composition used for the process according to the present invention includes the (c) silicone(s), the quantity of the (c) silicone(s) is limited so that the quantity of the (c) silicone(s) in the composition is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0062] It is preferable that the composition used for the process according to the present invention does not include (c) silicone.

[0063] The process according to the present invention can offer keratinous fibers such as hair good cosmetic effects, preferably revitalizing effects, in particular a smooth texture, although the composition used for the process does not include a substantial amount of silicone.

[0064] For example, the process according to the present invention can provide keratinous fibers such as hair with a smooth feel, whether the keratinous fibers are wet or dry.

[0065] In addition, the process according to the present invention can offer wet keratinous fibers such as hair good flexibility.

[0066] In addition, the process according to the present invention can offer dry keratinous fibers such as hair a sufficiently sheathed feeling.

[0067] The process according to the present invention is environmentally friendly, because the composition used for the process does not include a substantial amount of silicone.

[0068] The present invention will be described in detail below. [PROCESS]

[0069] The method according to the present invention comprises the steps of:

[0070] application to keratinous fibers of at least one composition comprising

[0071] (a) at least one polyol(s) and fatty acid dimer ester or one of its esters; and

[0072] (b) at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups or one of its salts,

[0073] in which

[0074] the composition comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, of (c) silicone(s), relative to the total weight of the composition. {Composition}

[0075] The composition used for the process according to the present invention comprises: a. at least one polyol(s) and fatty acid dimer ester or one of its esters; and b. at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups or one of its salts,

[0076] in which

[0077] the composition comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, of (c) silicone(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0078] (Ester of polyol(s) and fatty acid dimer or one of its esters)

[0079] The composition used for the process according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one polyol(s) and diacid dimer ester, or one of its esters. If two or more polyol(s) and diacid dimer esters, or its ester(s), are used, they may be identical or different.

[0080] In the expression "ester of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or one of its esters", the expression "or one of its esters" designates one of the derivatives of these esters and of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer obtained by reaction of alcohol function(s) of the polyol, not involved in ester-type bonds with acid functions of the diacid dimer, with one or more carboxylic functions of acid molecules other than the diacid dimer, or alternatively by reaction of acid function(s) of the diacid dimer, not involved in ester-type bonds with alcohol functions of the polyol, with alcohol functions of alcohol molecules other than the polyol.

[0081] Advantageously, the polyol(s) and fatty acid dimer esters, or one of its esters, which are suitable for use in the present invention may have a viscosity, measured at about 25 °C, greater than or equal to about 1,500 mPa.s.

[0082] The viscosity of a polyol(s) and diacid fatty acid ester, or of one of its esters, according to the present invention can be measured according to any method known to a person skilled in the art and, for example, according to the conventional method described below.

[0083] Viscosity can be measured using a cone-plane or parallel plate viscometer of the Ares type (TA-Instrument) operating in kinetic scanning mode over a shear range of about 1 to 1000 s-1 to induce a flow stress of about 1000 Pa.

[0084] The cone-plane or parallel plates can be made of a material chosen from the group consisting of stainless steel, acrylic resins or a polyphenylene sulfide (PPS resin).

[0085] The diameter of the cone-plane can be 25 mm (cone angle 0.10 radian).

[0086] The measurement is carried out at approximately 25 °C.

[0087] Before any measurement, the stability of the sample is checked using the dynamic sweep period test, which makes it possible to determine if the sample is stable in itself.

[0088] The shear viscosity is determined using the ETA value in the plateau region as a function of the flow rate.

[0089] The dynamic scanning period is determined at a frequency of 1.0 Hz over a period of 600 seconds.

[0090] The measurements at constant scanning speed are carried out at a frequency ranging from 1.0 to 1000 s1, and for example from 1.0 to 100 s*.

[0091] The viscosity of a polyol(s) and fatty acid dimer ester, or of one of its esters, suitable for use in the present invention can range from about 1500 mPa.s to about 150,000 mPa.s, or for example from about 2000 mPa.s to about 150,000 mPa.s, or for example from about 15,000 mPa.s to about 100,000 mPa.s or for example from about 30,000 mPa.s to about 80,000 mPa.s.

[0092] According to one embodiment, a polyol that is suitable for use in the present invention may be a diol dimer.

[0093] The diol dimer and fatty acid dimer esters that can be used in the context of the present invention are commercially available or can be prepared conventionally. They can be of vegetable origin and can be obtained by esterification of diacid dimers with diol dimers.

[0094] In an esterification reaction with a diacid dimer, a polyol dicarboxylate is obtained, which can have a weight average molecular weight, determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC), ranging from 2000 to 25,000 g / mol or, for example, between 2000 and 4000 g / mol.

[0095] Diacid dimer:

[0096] Fatty acid dimers, or diacid dimers, can be obtained in a conventional manner by a polymerization reaction, for example by intermolecular dimerization, of at least one unsaturated fatty acid.

[0097] They may contain at least two carboxylic acid groups.

[0098] As previously stated, the carboxylic functions of the fatty acid dimer not involved in the ester bond with the polyol residue(s) can be involved in other ester bonds with other alcohol functions of alcohol molecules other than the polyol(s).

[0099] These alcohol molecules or residues can be monoalcohols or polyols.

[0100] By way of examples of alcohol residues that are suitable for use in the present invention, one may mention hydrocarbon-based compounds comprising a hydroxyl function and containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, or for example from 6 to 36 carbon atoms, or for example from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, or for example from 16 to 28 carbon atoms, or for example from 18 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0101] By way of examples of monoalcohols which are suitable for the present invention, one may mention, in a non-limiting manner, butanol, pentanol, propanol, hexanol, heptanol, octanol, decanol, dodecanol, hexadecanol, octadecanol, eicosadecanol, phytosterol, isostearol, stearol, ketol, behenol, etc.

[0102] Fatty acid dimers can be derived, for example, from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, for example in C8 to C34, or for example in Ci2 to C22, in particular in Ci6 to C20, and for example in Ci8.

[0103] Examples of these unsaturated fatty acids include, for example, undecenoic acid, linderic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, elaidinic acid, gadolenic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, erucic acid, brassidic acid and arachidonic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0104] According to one embodiment, it may be the diacid dimer from which the diol dimer to be esterified can also be derived. It may be its hydrogenated form.

[0105] The hydrogenated form of the diacid dimer can be partial or total, and can correspond, for example, to the saturated form, which is more stable with respect to oxidation.

[0106] According to another embodiment, it may be the diacid dimer derived from the dimerization of linoleic acid.

[0107] According to one embodiment, the diacid dimer may be a commercial product consisting of a dicarboxylic acid containing approximately 36 carbon atoms. This product may also contain a trimer acid and a monomer acid, in proportions that depend on the degree of purity of the product.

[0108] Products whose diacid dimer content can be greater than 70% and others whose diacid dimer content has been adjusted to 90% or more are conventionally available commercially.

[0109] Diacid dimers and, for example, dilinoleic diacids, whose stability against oxidation has been improved by hydrogenation of the double bonds remaining after the dimerization reaction, can also be found commercially.

[0110] In the present invention, any diacid dimer currently available commercially can be used.

[0111] In an esterification reaction with a diacid dimer, the average degree of esterification and the average molecular weight of the ester obtained can be adjusted by varying the diol dimer / diacid dimer ratio.

[0112] Polyols:

[0113] The term "polyol" is intended to designate any hydrocarbon-based compound comprising at least two hydroxyl functions and containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, or for example from 6 to 36 carbon atoms, or for example from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, or for example from 16 to 28 carbon atoms, and for example from 18 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0114] Hydrocarbon-based chains can be interrupted, where appropriate, by the presence of at least one heteroatom, and for example an oxygen atom.

[0115] A polyol or a polyol ester that is suitable for use in the present invention may comprise, for example, 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, or for example 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, or for example 4 to 6 hydroxyl functions.

[0116] Where appropriate, hydroxyl functions, other than those already used in an ester bond with the diacid dimer, may also be used, in whole or in part, in other ester bonds by reaction with acid molecules other than the diacid dimer.

[0117] The polyol or one of its esters which is suitable for use in the present invention may be chosen from the group consisting of linear, branched, cyclic or polycyclic alcohols, saturated or unsaturated.

[0118] Thus, the polyol can be chosen, for example, from the group consisting of a diol, a triol, a tetraol, or a pentaol, or one of their esters.

[0119] The polyol may be a diol, or one of its esters, chosen for example from the group consisting of a fatty alcohol dimer, a monoglycerol or polyglycerol, a C2-C4 monoalkylene or polyalkylene glycol, 1,4-butanediol and pentaerythritol.

[0120] By way of examples of diols which are also suitable for use in the present invention, butanediol, pentanediol, propanediol, hexanediol, hexylene glycol, heptanediol, octanediol, nonanediol, decanediol, 1-decanediol, dodecanediol, tridecanediol, tetradecanediol, pentadecanediol, hexadecanediol, nonadecanediol, octadecanediol, cyclohexanediol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythrythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, ethylene glycol and xylene glycol, and their isomers may be mentioned.

[0121] According to one variant, by way of example of diols which are suitable for use in the present invention, diol dimers may be cited.

[0122] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "diol dimer" is intended to designate saturated diols derived from the hydrogenation of the corresponding diacid dimers, a diacid dimer being as defined above, and for example a diacid dimer of at least one unsaturated fatty acid.

[0123] As regards the industrially manufactured diol dimer, it also generally contains other components, for example a triol trimer, a monoalcohol and ether-type compounds, depending on the degree of purification of the acid dimer and / or its lower alcohol ester, used as starting material.

[0124] Generally, products with a diol dimer content greater than 70% can be used in the present invention. However, a high-purity diol dimer, such as a compound with a diol dimer content greater than 90%, can be used.

[0125] Thus, a diol dimer can be produced by hydrogenation, for example catalytic hydrogenation, of a diacid dimer, which is itself obtained by the dimerization of at least one unsaturated fatty acid.

[0126] A suitable fatty acid may be such as those mentioned above, and for example in C8 to C34, or for example in Ci2 to C22, or for example in Ci6 to C20 and more particularly in Ci8.

[0127] According to one embodiment, the diol dimer can be derived from the hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid.

[0128] A diol dimer can be, for example, dilinoleol.

[0129] The diol dimer can generally be in a saturated form.

[0130] As another example of a diol dimer which is suitable for use in the present invention, diglycerol may be cited for example.

[0131] This compound is a glycerol dimer resulting from the condensation of two glycerol molecules, with the loss of one water molecule.

[0132] The term "diglycerol" refers to any combination of isomers that may result from such condensation, for example linear isomers, branched isomers and, where appropriate, cyclic isomers resulting from an intramolecular dehydration of a diglycerol molecule.

[0133] Diglycerol can be obtained by any process known to those skilled in the art, and in particular those described in patent EP 0 750 848.

[0134] As examples of acid molecules that can interact with one or more hydroxyl functions of the polyol, not involved in the ester bond with the diacid dimer, we can cite, in a non-limiting manner, molecules derived from isostearic acid, behenic acid, phytostearic acid, stearic acid or cetyl acid.

[0135] An ester which is suitable for use in the present invention can be obtained by the reaction of a polyol or one of its esters with a diacid dimer, and for example a dimer dilinoleic acid, in a molar ratio of about 1.0:0.2 to 1.

[0136] An ester that may be suitable for use in the present invention may be obtained by the reaction of a dimeric dilinoleic acid with a dilinoleol and, optionally, at least one additional monoalcohol chosen, for example, from the group consisting of behenol, isostearol, phytosterol, stearol and cetol, and mixtures thereof.

[0137] Thus, an ester used in the context of the present invention can be used in the form of a mixture of various esters, for example.

[0138] An ester which is suitable for use in the present invention can be obtained, for example, by the reaction of a glycerol, an isostearic acid and a dimeric dilinoleic acid, for example in a molar ratio of 1.0:0.2 to 1.0:0.5 to 0.9.

[0139] By way of examples of dimeric dilinoleic acid esters and polyol(s), or one of their esters, suitable for the present invention, reference may be made to the esters described in patent applications JP-A-2003-226609, JP-A-2004-256515 and JP-A-2005-179377.

[0140] A polyol(s) and fatty acid dimer ester, or one of its esters, suitable for use in the present invention may have a molecular weight ranging from about 2000 to about 25,000 g / mol, for example about 4000 to about 20,000 g / mol, for example about 5000 to about 20,000 g / mol, for example about 7000 to about 15,000 g / mol and for example about 8000 to about 10,000 g / mol.

[0141] According to one embodiment, an ester according to the present invention may comprise an alternating sequence of diacid dimer residue(s) and residue(s) related to said polyol(s), and for example to said diol(s), said polyols or diols being, for example, as defined above.

[0142] Thus, in such a configuration, each of the two ends of said sequence can respectively bear an OR' and OR" motif with R' and R" representing, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or OR' and OR" representing, independently of each other, a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue in C2 to C36, for example in C8 to C24, for example in C[2 to C20 and for example in Ci6 to Ci8.

[0143] According to one embodiment, R' and R" can both represent a hydrogen atom.

[0144] According to one embodiment, OR' and OR" can both represent an identical or different hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue.

[0145] Examples of OR' and OR" based monoalcohol residues that may be suitable for the present invention include fatty alcohol residues.

[0146] An ester that is suitable for use in the present invention may be chosen from the group consisting of esters of general formula (I), (II) or (IV) described below, or a mixture thereof.

[0147] According to one embodiment, a polyol(s) and fatty acid dimer ester, or one of its esters, which may be suitable for use in the present invention, may conform to the general formula (I) below:

[0148] R3-OCO-Ri(-COO-R2-OCO-Ri)n-COO-R3 (I)

[0149] in which:

[0150] - CORiCO represents a fatty acid dimer residue,

[0151] - OR2O represents a fatty alcohol dimer residue,

[0152] - OR3 represents a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue, and

[0153] - n is an integer from 1 to 15, for example from 2 to 10 or for example from 5 to 7.

[0154] According to one embodiment, CORiCO can represent a residue of dimeric dilinoleate.

[0155] According to one alternative embodiment, OR2O can represent a residue of dilinoleyl dimer.

[0156] Moreover, OR3 may represent a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue selected, for example, from the group consisting of behenyl, isostearyl and phytosteryl residues, and mixtures thereof.

[0157] According to another embodiment, the dimer dilinoleic acid ester and polyol(s) and fatty acid dimer, or one of its esters, which may be suitable for use in the present invention may, for example, have the general formula (II) below: HO—R\ — C —R',--CO—R'x )—OH ® 'KP' n O Ô

[0158] in which:

[0159] - n is an integer from 1 to 15, for example from 2 to 10 and in particular from 5 at 7,

[0160] - COR'iCO represents a fatty acid dimer residue,

[0161] - OR'2O represents a diglyceryl residue of general formula (III) below: —ûHch^ch -—ch™"™ o ™"" cil™™ ch— RR* \ ' ; -X ' ; ■ 9

[0162] in which:

[0163] - R'3 represents H or OR'3 represents a fatty acid residue.

[0164] According to one embodiment, COR'iCO can represent a residue of dimeric dilinoleate.

[0165] According to one embodiment, the fatty acid residue represented by OR'3 can be an isostearyl residue.

[0166] According to one embodiment, a dimer dilinoleic acid ester and polyol(s) and fatty acid dimer, or one of its esters, which may be suitable for use in the present invention, may have the formula (IV) below:

[0167] HO-Rr-(-OCO-R2"-COO-R1"-)h-OH (IV)

[0168] in which: a. OR / 'O represents a diol dimer residue obtained by the hydrogenation of a dimeric dilinoleic acid, b. COR2"CO represents a fatty acid dimer residue, and c. h represents an integer from 1 to 9, for example from 2 to 8 and by example from 4 to 6.

[0169] According to one embodiment, COR2"CO can represent a residue of dimeric dilinoleate.

[0170] An ester that is suitable for the present invention may be chosen, for example, from the group consisting of esters having the following INCI nomenclature: polyglyceryl-2 isostearate dimerdilinoleate copolymer, bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate and mixtures thereof.

[0171] Such compounds can be obtained, for example, under the reference Hailuscent ISDA (Kokyu Alcohol) and Plandool-G, Plandool-G7, Lusplan DD-DA5, Lusplan DD-DA7, PHY / IS-DA and Lusplan DD-DAS (Nippon Fine Chemical Company Ltd).

[0172] For example, the Lusplan DD-DA5 and the Lusplan DD-DA7 are described in patent application FR 03 / 02809.

[0173] The amount of the (a) polyol(s) and fatty acid dimer ester(s), or its ester(s), in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0174] The quantity of the (a) polyol(s) and fatty acid dimer ester(s), or of its ester(s), in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0175] The quantity of the (a) polyol(s) and fatty acid dimer(s), or of its ester(s), in the composition used for the process according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Hydroxycarboxylic acid)

[0176] The composition used for the process according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups or one of its salts. If two or more such hydroxycarboxylic acids or their salts are used, they may be identical or different.

[0177] The expression "hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups" herein refers to an organic compound that has at least one carboxyl group and a plurality of hydroxyl groups. The number of carboxyl groups in (b) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups is not limited, but one or two carboxyl groups are preferable, and two carboxyl groups are more preferable. The number of hydroxyl groups in (b) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups is also not limited, but 2 to 6 are preferable, and 2 to 4 are more preferable. The number of carbon atoms in (b) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups is not limited, but 3 to 8 are preferable, and 4 to 6 are more preferable.

[0178] The above organic compound may be aliphatic or aromatic. In other words, the (b) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups may be selected from an aliphatic or aromatic hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups. Preferably, the (b) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups may be selected from an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups, more preferably from a saturated aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups, and even more preferably from a saturated aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups and two carboxyl groups.

[0179] Examples of (b) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups include dihydroxypropanoic acid such as glyceric acid; trihydroxybutanoic acid such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; tetrahydroxypentanoic acid such as ribonic acid, arabinoic acid, xylonic acid and lyxonic acid; pentahydroxyhexanoic acid such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid and talonic acid; hexahydroxyheptanoic acid such as glucoheptanoic acid, galactoheptonic acid; tartaric acid; lactobionic acid, maltobionic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0180] It is preferable that (b) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups be tartaric acid.

[0181] The type of salt is not limited. Examples of salts include alkali metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt; alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium salt and magnesium salt; zinc salts; iron salts; Ammonium salts; amine salts such as monoethanolamine salt, diethanolamine salt, and triethanolamine salt; and mixtures thereof. Sodium salt is preferred. If two or more salts are used, they may be the same or different.

[0182] The amount of (b) hydroxycarboxylic acid(s) having two or more hydroxyl groups or their salt(s) in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0183] The amount of (b) hydroxycarboxylic acid(s) having two or more hydroxyl groups or their salt(s) in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0184] The amount of (b) hydroxycarboxylic acid(s) having two or more hydroxyl groups or their salt(s) in the composition used for the process according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Silicone)

[0185] When the composition includes (c) one or more silicones, one, two or more silicones may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of silicone or a combination of different types of silicones may be used.

[0186] In the context of the present invention, the term "silicone" used herein means, in accordance with the generally accepted definition, all organosilicon polymers or oligomers having a linear or cyclic, branched or cross-linked structure of varying molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of appropriately functionalized silanes, and essentially comprising a repetition of principal motifs in which silicon atoms are linked to each other by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond =Si-O-Si=), the optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms. The most common hydrocarbon radicals are alkyl radicals, in particular alkyl radicals of the form C1.C10, and especially methyl, fluoroalkyl, and aryl radicals, and in particular phenyl radicals.

[0187] The (c) silicone(s), if present in the composition used for the process according to the present invention, may be volatile silicone, non-volatile silicone or combinations thereof.

[0188] The (c) silicone(s) may be selected from, but not limited to, organopolysiloxanes, such as polydialkylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydiarylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes, amino-modified silicones, polyether-modified silicones, carboxyl-modified silicones, fatty acid-modified silicones, alcohol-modified silicones, aliphatic alcohol-modified silicones, epoxy-modified silicones, fluorine-modified silicones, cyclic silicones, aminopolyether-modified silicones, and mixtures thereof. The (c) silicone(s) may be chosen from among polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxane, and amino-modified silicones, and in particular chosen from among amino-modified silicones.

[0189] In one embodiment, (c) silicone may be selected from organopolysiloxanes, amino-modified silicones (aminosilicones), and mixtures thereof, preferably from aminosilicones.

[0190] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's book "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press. Examples of polydialkylsiloxanes include linear polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups and polydimethylsiloxanes with hydroxydimethylsilyl terminal groups. Examples of polyalkylarylsiloxanes include linear and branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes.

[0191] According to the present invention, the expression "amino-modified silicone", or aminosilicone, designates any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium, and more particularly at least one primary amine.

[0192] The quantity of silicone (c) in the composition used for the process according to the present invention is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0193] It is preferable that the composition used for the process according to the present invention does not include silicone. (Fat amine)

[0194] The composition used for the process according to the present invention may further comprise (d) at least one fatty amine. Two or more fatty amines may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of fatty amine or a combination of different types of fatty amines may be used.

[0195] The term "fatty amines" means primary, secondary, or tertiary fatty amines, which are optionally (poly)oxyalkylated, or their salts. Fatty amines generally comprise at least one hydrocarbon-based chain in C6-C30. Preferably, the fatty amines according to the present invention are not quantified. Preferably, the fatty amines according to the present invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0196] Preferably, the composition used for the process according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one fatty amine comprising at least one C6-C3o hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0197] Preferably, the composition used for the process according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one fatty amine selected from the tertiary fatty amines.

[0198] More preferably, the composition used for the process according to the present invention comprises one or more tertiary fatty amines selected from fatty amidoamines.

[0199] The (d) fatty amine that can be used in the context of the present invention can be selected from the fatty amines of formula (IV) below:

[0200] RN(R')2(IV)

[0201] in which:

[0202] - R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular, a C6-C30 alkyl radical, preferably C8-C24, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a C6-C30 alkyl radical, preferably C8-C24, linear or branched, or a C6-C30 alkenyl radical, preferably C8-C24, linear or branched; and

[0203] - R', which may be identical or different, represents a hydrocarbon-based radical monovalent, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0204] The (d) fatty amine corresponding to formula (IV) above may be chosen, for example, from dimethyllauramine, dimethylbehenamine, dimethylcocamine, dimethylmyristamine, dimethylpalmitamine, dimethylstearamine, dimethylsuifamine, dimethylsojamine and mixtures thereof.

[0205] The (d) fatty amine that can be used in the context of the present invention can also be selected from fatty amidoamines, preferably fatty amidoamines of formula (V) below:

[0206] R-CO-N(H)-R' ' -N(R')2 (V)

[0207] in which:

[0208] - R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a C5-C29 alkyl radical, better still a C5-C23, linear or branched, or a C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably a C7-C23, linear or branched;

[0209] - R'1, which may be identical or different, represent a radical based divalent hydrocarbons containing fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms; and

[0210] - R', which may be identical or different, represents a hydrocarbon-based radical monovalent, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0211] The fatty amine (d) corresponding to formula (V) above may be selected, for example, from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine sold by Inolex Chemical Company under the name Lexamine S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, sojamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, visonamidopropyl dimethylamine, avoinamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0212] Preferably, the (d) fatty amine can be chosen from among the fatty amidoamines, preferably from among the fatty amidoamines of formula (V) above.

[0213] It is preferable that the (d) fatty amine be chosen from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and one of their mixtures.

[0214] The chemical structure of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine can be represented by the formula (VI) below:

[0215] in which

[0216] - R denotes an alkyl group in Cp for stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0217] Thus, it is preferable that the composition used for the process according to the present invention comprise (d) at least one fatty amine selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and one of their mixtures.

[0218] The quantity of the fatty amine(s) in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0219] The quantity of the fatty amine(s) in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0220] Thus, the quantity of the fatty amine(s) in the composition used for the process according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Fatty alcohol)

[0221] The composition used for the process according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one fatty alcohol. Two or more different types of (e) fatty alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (e) fatty alcohol or a combination of different types of (e) fatty alcohols may be used.

[0222] The term "fatty" here means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols with 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms, are included within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. A fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. Two or more fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

[0223] The (e) fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from Ci2-C24 alkyl and Ci2-C24 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0224] Non-limiting examples of (e) fatty alcohols that may be cited include lauric alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, arachidonylic alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0225] Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0226] The (e) fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, meaning that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.

[0227] According to at least one embodiment, the (e) fatty alcohol used in the composition used for the process according to the present invention is selected from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).

[0228] It may be preferable that the (e) fatty alcohol be chosen from the group consisting of stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and one of their mixtures.

[0229] The quantity of the fatty alcohol(s) in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0230] The quantity of the fatty alcohol(s) in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0231] The quantity of the fatty alcohol(s) in the composition used for the process according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Water)

[0232] The composition used for the process according to the present invention may further comprise (f) water.

[0233] The amount of (f) water in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 55% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0234] The amount of (f) water in the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0235] The quantity of (f) water in the composition used for the process according to the present invention can be from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 55% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 60% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (pH)

[0236] The composition used for the process according to the present invention may have a pH less than 7, preferably less than 6, and more preferably less than 5. The pH of the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be corrected to be, for example, from 3 to less than 7, preferably from 3 to less than 6, and more preferably from 3 to less than 5, such as 4 ± 0.5. The pH of the composition used for the process according to the present invention may be determined by measuring the pH of the aqueous phase of the composition.

[0237] In other words, it is preferable that the composition used for the process according to the present invention be acidic.

[0238] The pH of the composition used for the process according to the present invention can be controlled by adding at least one pH corrector to the composition.

[0239] The pH corrector can be chosen from organic or inorganic bases and organic or inorganic acids, as well as their salts.

[0240] Examples of organic bases include primary, secondary, and tertiary (poly)amines, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine, and 1,3-propanediamine. Examples of inorganic bases include ammonia, ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and sodium carbonate.

[0241] Examples of organic acids include carboxylic acids such as lactic acid. Examples of inorganic acids include hydrochloric acid, nitric acid, orthophosphoric acid, and sulfonic acid. Examples of salts include sodium phosphate and trisodium phosphate.

[0242] The pH corrector(s) may be present in the composition used for the process according to the present invention in a sufficient quantity to correct the pH of the composition to the desired value, for example from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. (Optional Components)

[0243] The composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may include, in addition to the aforementioned components, optional components typically used in cosmetics, including anionic, amphoteric or non-ionic surfactants; oils; colorants; fillers; polyols such as glycols and glycerol; hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, UV filters, natural extracts derived from animals or plants, preservatives, and the like, within a range that does not alter the effects of the present invention.

[0244] The composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may include the above optional component(s) in an amount of 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Methods of implementation)

[0245] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition used in the process according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0246] - from 0.01% to 10% by weight of (a) at least one polyol(s) and dimer ester of diacid fatty acid or one of its esters;

[0247] - from 0.01% to 10% by weight of (b) at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups or one of its salts; and

[0248] - less than 1% by weight of (c) at least one silicone.

[0249] According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition used in the process according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0250] of 0.05% to 5% by weight of (a1) at least one polyol(s) and fatty acid dimer ester or one of its esters, wherein the polyol(s) and fatty acid dimer ester or one of its esters is selected from the esters of general formula (II): HO-R\ tO—C —R*.--C —O—R', )-OH W - ' || p " 'n Oh

[0251] in which:

[0252] - n is an integer from 1 to 15,

[0253] - COR'iCO represents a fatty acid dimer residue,

[0254] - OR'2O represents a diglyceryl residue of the following general formula (III): —00 ch—0H oh (ni) 9

[0255] in which:

[0256] - R'3 represents H or OR'3 represents a fatty acid residue;

[0257] - from 0.05% to 5% by weight of (b1) at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups or one of its salts in which the hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups is selected from a saturated aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups; and

[0258] less than 0.1% by weight of (c) at least one silicone.

[0259] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the composition used for the process according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0260] - from 0.1% to 1% by weight of (a”) polyglyceryl-2 isostearate copolymer / dilinoleate dimer;

[0261] - from 0.1% to 1% by weight of (b") tartaric acid; and

[0262] - less than 0.01% by weight of (c) at least one silicone. (Preparation)

[0263] The composition used for the process according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential and optional ingredients above in accordance with any of the processes which are well known to those skilled in the art.

[0264] The composition used for the process according to the present invention may be in the form of a fluid, preferably a liquid or a paste, and more preferably a liquid. {Processing step}

[0265] The process according to the present invention is intended to treat, preferably to cosmetically treat, more preferably to revitalize keratinous fibers such as hair.

[0266] The process according to the present invention includes the step of applying the composition described above to keratinous fibers.

[0267] The method of applying the above composition to keratin fibers is not limited. For example, the above composition can be applied to keratin fibers with the fingers or hands. In another embodiment, the above composition can be applied to keratin fibers by spraying. In yet another embodiment, the above composition can be applied to keratin fibers using an applicator or device, such as a brush.

[0268] The above composition can be removed from the keratin fibers after the step of applying the composition to the keratin fibers.

[0269] Thus, it is possible, if necessary, to perform a rinsing step of the keratin fiber composition after the application step of the above composition to the keratin fibers. The rinsing step can be carried out using water. After the rinsing step, a drying step of the keratin fibers can be carried out.

[0270] On the other hand, the above composition can be maintained on the keratin fibers after the application step of the composition to the keratin fibers. Thus, after the application step of the composition to the keratin fibers, a drying step of the keratin fibers can be carried out.

[0271] The process according to the present invention is not a permanent remodeling process such as permanent waviness or permanent smoothing of keratinous fibers.

[0272] The keratinous fibers to which the compositions have been applied can be left for an appropriate time, as required to treat the keratinous fibers. The duration of each treatment is not limited, but it can be from 1 to 30 minutes, preferably from 1 to 20 minutes, and more preferably from 1 to 10 minutes. Thus, for example, the total time of the process according to the present invention can be from 3 to 60 minutes, preferably from 3 to 40 minutes, and more preferably from 3 to 20 minutes.

[0273] Keratinous fibers can be treated at room temperature. Alternatively, the keratinous fibers can be heated between 25 °C and 65 °C, preferably 30 °C and 60 °C, more preferably 35 °C and 55 °C, and even more preferably 40 °C and 50 °C, before and / or during and / or after the step of applying the above composition to the keratinous fibers.

[0274] If necessary, the process according to the present invention may include a step of cleaning the keratin fibers before applying the composition described above to the keratin fibers. This cleaning step may be carried out by shampooing and rinsing the keratin fibers with shampoo and water. After the cleaning step, a drying step of the keratin fibers may be carried out before applying the composition described above to the keratin fibers.

[0275] The process according to the present invention is for cosmetic purposes for keratin fibers. For example, the process according to the present invention is intended for a cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, other than a permanent remodeling of keratin fibers, preferably for the care of keratin fibers, and more preferably for the revitalization of keratin fibers.

[0276] The process according to the present invention can enhance the smooth texture of keratinous fibers, such as hair.

[0277] The process according to the present invention can strengthen or improve the flexibility of keratinous fibers, preferably wet keratinous fibers, and more preferably wet hair.

[0278] The process according to the present invention can strengthen or improve the amount of sheathing of keratinous fibers, preferably dry keratinous fibers, and more preferably dry hair. [COMPOSITION]

[0279] The present invention also relates to a treatment composition, preferably a cosmetic treatment, and more preferably a revitalization composition for keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising:

[0280] (a) at least one ester of polyol(s) and fatty acid dimer or one of its esters;

[0281] (b) at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups or one of its salts; and

[0282] (d) at least one fatty amine,

[0283] in which

[0284] - the composition comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% in weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, of (c) silicone(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0285] The above explanations concerning ingredients (a) to (d), as well as other optional ingredients, for the composition used in the process according to the present invention can be applied to those concerning the composition according to the present invention. (Applications)

[0286] The composition according to the present invention can be used for the treatment, for example the care or revitalization, of keratinous fibers.

[0287] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a rinse-off type cosmetic composition, and more preferably a rinse-off type hair cosmetic composition.

[0288] For example, the composition according to the present invention can be used in hair care cosmetic products, such as shampoos, conditioners and the like. [USE]

[0289] The present invention may also relate to the use of (b) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups or one of its salts, in a keratin fiber treatment composition, comprising:

[0290] (a) at least one ester of polyol(s) and diacid fatty acid dimer or of one of its esters,

[0291] in which

[0292] the composition comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, of (c) silicone(s), relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0293] in order to strengthen or improve the smooth texture of keratinous fibers, when the composition is applied to the keratinous fibers.

[0294] The present invention may also relate to the use of (b) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups or one of its salts, in a keratin fiber treatment composition, comprising: a. at least one ester of polyol(s) and dimer of fatty acid or of one of its esters,

[0295] in which

[0296] the composition comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, of (c) silicone(s), relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0297] in order to strengthen or improve the flexibility of keratin fibers, preferably wet keratin fibers, and more preferably wet hair, when the composition is applied to the keratin fibers.

[0298] The present invention may also relate to the use of (b) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups or one of its salts, in a keratin fiber treatment composition, comprising: a. at least one ester of polyol(s) and dimer of fatty acid or of one of its esters,

[0299] in which

[0300] - the composition comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, of (c) silicone(s), relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0301] - in order to reinforce or improve the amount of keratin fiber sheathing, of preference for dry keratin fibers, and more preferentially dry hair, when the composition is applied to keratin fibers.

[0302] The above explanations concerning ingredients (a) to (c), as well as optional ingredients, for the composition used in the process according to the present invention can be applied to those concerning the above use according to the present invention. EXAMPLES

[0303] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples shall not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 [PREPARATION]

[0304] Each of the compositions according to Example 1 (Ex. 1) and Comparative Example 1 (Ex. comp. 1) was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. The numerical values ​​of the quantities of the ingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on the "% by weight" as active ingredients, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0305] [Tables 1] Ex. 1 Ex. Comp. 1 Cetearyl alcohol 2.5 2.5 Stearyl alcohol 5 5 Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine 3.75 3.75 Tartaric acid q.s. pH 4.5 - Citric acid - q.s. pH 4.5 Polyglyceryl-2-isostearate / dimer dilinoleate copolymer 0.5 0.5 Glycerin 2 2 Propanediol 1 1 Preservative 0.3 0.3 Water q.s. 100 q.s. 100 Wet hair Smooth texture 6.6 5 Suppleness 6.8 5 Dry hair Smooth texture 6.8 5 Coating amount 6.8 5 [EVALUATIONS]

[0306] Hair strands (2.7 g, 27 cm) were prepared for each evaluation. Each hair strand was washed once with a clarifying shampoo. After shampooing, the hair strand was rinsed with water. Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 was applied to each wet hair strand at a rate of 0.45 g of the composition / g of hair.

[0307] After leaving the hair strand for 5 minutes, it was rinsed under running water for 10 seconds to obtain a wet hair strand. The smoothness and suppleness of the wet hair strand were assessed by 5 participants and rated from 0 (very poor) to 10 (very good). The average of the ratings was calculated. The results are shown in the "Wet Hair" rows of Table 1.

[0308] The wet hair strand was then dried with a hairdryer to obtain a dry hair strand. The smooth texture and the amount of coating of The dry hair samples were assessed by 5 panelists and rated from 0 (very poor) to 10 (very good). The average of the ratings was calculated. The results are shown in the "Dry Hair" rows of Table 1. (Results)

[0309] The composition according to Example 1 which included (a) a polyol(s) and diacid fatty acid dimer ester or one of its esters (polyglyceryl-2 isostearate copolymer / dilinoleate dimer), and (b) a hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups or one of its salts (tartaric acid) can provide keratin fibers with a reinforced or improved smooth texture, whether the keratin fibers are wet or dry.

[0310] The composition according to Example 1 which includes (a) a polyol(s) and diacid fatty acid dimer ester or one of its esters (polyglyceryl-2 isostearate copolymer / dilinoleate dimer), and (b) a hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups or one of its salts (tartaric acid) can provide wet keratinous fibers with enhanced or improved flexibility.

[0311] The composition according to Example 1 which includes (a) a polyol(s) and diacid fatty acid dimer ester or one of its esters (polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dilinoleate dimer copolymer), and (b) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups or one of its salts (tartaric acid) can provide dry keratinous fibers with an enhanced or improved amount of sheathing on the keratinous fibers.

[0312] On the other hand, the composition according to Comparative Example 1, which did not include (b) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups or one of its salts (tartaric acid), but included citric acid, which is not a hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups, could not offer keratinous fibers a smooth texture comparable to the composition according to Example 1.

[0313] The composition according to Comparative Example 1, which did not include (b) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups or one of its salts (tartaric acid), but included citric acid, which is not a hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups, could not offer wet keratinous fibers a flexibility comparable to the composition according to Example 1.

[0314] The composition according to Comparative Example 1, which did not include (b) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups or one of its salts (tartaric acid), but included citric acid, which is not a hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups, could not offer dry keratinous fibers a sufficient sheathing sensation comparable to the composition according to Example 1.

Claims

Demands

1. A process for treating, preferably for cosmetic treatment, and more preferably for revitalizing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the step of: applying to the keratinous fibers at least one composition comprising (a) at least one ester of polyol(s) and difatty acid dimer or one of its esters; and (b) at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups or one of its salts, wherein the composition comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, of (c) silicone(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. A process according to claim 1, wherein (a) the polyol(s) and fatty acid dimer ester, or one of its esters, is selected from the esters of the following general formula (I): Rs-OCO-R^-COO-Rz-OCO-RJn-COO-Rs (I) in which: - CORiCO represents a fatty acid dimer residue, - OR2O represents a fatty alcohol dimer residue, - OR3 represents a hydrocarbon monoalcohol residue, and - n is an integer from 1 to 15, or of the following general formula (II): C —R*.—'C — || ! |lo Ô in which: - n is an integer from 1 to 15, - COR'iCO represents a fatty acid dimer residue, - OR'2O represents a diglyceryl residue of the following general formula (III): ——CH"— 0™“'CH;—(m) O 0 R'> R', in which: - R'3 represents H or OR'3 represents a fatty acid residue, or of the following general formula (IV): HO-R1-(-OCO-R2"-COO-R1"-)h-OH (IV) in which: - ORi 0 represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation of a dimeric dilinoleic acid, - COR2"CO represents a fatty acid dimer residue, and - h represents an integer from 1 to 9.

3. A process according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) polyol(s) and diacid fatty acid dimer ester, or one of its esters, is selected from the group consisting of esters having the following INCI nomenclature: polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimerdilinoleate copolymer, bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

4. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (b) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups is selected from an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups, preferably from a saturated aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups, and more preferably from a saturated aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups and two carboxyl groups.

5. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups is tartaric acid.

6. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the amount of (b) non-hydroxycarboxylic acid(s) having two or more hydroxyl groups or their salt(s) in the composition is from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition further comprises (d) at least one fatty amine.

8. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition further comprises (e) at least one fatty alcohol.

9. A process according to claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: - from 0.01% to 10% by weight of (a) at least one ester of polyol(s) and diacid fatty acid dimer or one of its esters; - from 0.01% to 10% by weight of (b) at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid having two or more hydroxyl groups or one of its salts; and - less than 1% by weight of (c) at least one silicone.

10. A process according to claim 1 or 9, wherein the composition comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: - 0.1% to 1% by weight of (a) polyglyceryl-2-isostearate / dilinoleate dimer copolymer; - 0.1% to 1% by weight of (b) tartaric acid; and - less than 0.01% by weight of (c) at least one silicone.