Novel cosmetic uses of fireweed (Epilobium angustifolium) extracts

Abstract

A novel cosmetic use of an extract of Epilobium angustifolium is provided. The present invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of Epilobium angustifolium to reduce the visibility of skin pores and / or prevent an increase in said visibility. The extract thus makes it possible to make the skin smoother. Another object of the present invention relates to a beauty care method comprising the topical application of an extract of E. angustifolium or a cosmetic composition comprising it.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] This invention relates to a novel cosmetic use of an extract from the plant Epilobium angustifolium. [Background technology]

[0002] Pores in the skin are openings through which secretions from sebaceous glands and sweat glands flow out. They contain hair follicles and sebaceous glands. Various external factors, such as ultraviolet rays, heat, pollution, poor hygiene, or an unbalanced diet, or more simply, skin aging, can lead to enlarged pores and make the skin less smooth and unsightly. Pores become more noticeable, resulting in an unsightly effect. Furthermore, intrinsic factors, such as male hormones and growth factors, modulate the activity of sebaceous and sweat glands.

[0003] IGF-1 (insulin-like growth factor 1) is a growth factor produced by fibroblasts and melanocytes in the skin. It is absolutely essential for the normal development of the epidermis. Its expression decreases with age. Keratinocytes express the IGF-1 receptor. It has been shown that IGF-1 produced by fibroblasts in the dermis activates keratinocytes. However, when excessive IGF-1 is produced, hyperactivity of keratinocytes is observed, which leads to increased differentiation of keratinocytes and, consequently, hyperkeratinization of the skin. The skin exhibits larger, and therefore more noticeable, pores.

[0004] Furthermore, in the IGF-1 signaling pathway, a protein called insulin-like growth factor-binding protein (IGFBP) modulates IGF-1 activity. IGFBP3 is a major protein secreted by keratin-producing cells and generally in the epidermis. By binding to IGF-1, IGFBP3 blocks the attachment of IGF-1 to its receptor, preventing excessive proliferation and differentiation of keratin-producing cells. Thus, IGFBP3 is thought to be involved in reducing pore size and, consequently, their visibility.

[0005] Furthermore, type IV collagen is a constituent protein of the basement membrane at the dermal-epidermal junction, found not only in the skin but also in its appendages, particularly hair follicles, sweat glands, and sebaceous glands. Type IV collagen expression decreases with age, and exposure to extrinsic factors, such as ultraviolet radiation, further reduces its expression. This makes it a complementary primary target for the development of cosmetic ingredients that are effective in reducing the visibility of skin pores.

[0006] Cosmetic active ingredients that can reduce the visibility of pores are already available on the market. However, in the fields of cosmetics and dermatological pharmaceuticals, there is a constant demand for alternative active ingredients of this type that are stable and provide sustained effects on the skin.

[0007] To their surprise, the applicant discovered that an extract of Epilobium angustifolium had the ability to reduce the visibility of skin pores and / or prevent an increase in such visibility.

[0008] The cosmetic use of the extract according to the present invention is already known in the prior art. For example, French Patent Application Publication No. 2831440 describes the inhibitory activity of Epilobium angustifolium extract against phospholipase A2, lipoxygenase and / or prostaglandin synthase, and the extract has an effect against red spots and irritation on the skin.

[0009] Japanese Patent Publication No. 2003342154 and International Publication No. 2004016236 disclose the antioxidant activity of Epilobium angustifolium extract.

[0010] French Patent Application Publication No. 2890309 describes a method of cosmetic care for reducing skin imperfections, including the application of three successive compositions, one of which may contain a soothing agent, such as an extract of Epilobium angustifolium. However, this extract is described in a lengthy list of soothing agents.

[0011] Canadian Patent Application Publication No. 2386648 describes a method for treating skin, comprising administering an effective amount of fireweed (Epilobium angustifolium) extract as an antimicrobial agent for acne.

[0012] Finally, U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2016184216 discloses an anti-dandruff composition comprising an extract of Epilobium angustifolium. The effect of the extract on sebum secretion is described in the aforementioned application.

[0013] Thus, none of the prior art cited describes or suggests the use of Epilobium angustifolium extract to reduce the visibility of skin pores and / or prevent an increase in such visibility.

[0014] For the purposes of this invention, it is important to clearly distinguish between components that act on sebum, which is secreted by the sebaceous glands and present in excess, exhibiting the characteristics of oily skin, and components that act on skin pores, advantageously by regulating hyperkeratinization.

[0015] Therefore, the active ingredients can tighten skin pores without having any effect on regulating sebum, particularly on the activity of sebaceous gland cells. These are two distinct effects.

[0016] Thus, as far as the applicant knows, the prior art does not describe or suggest the effect of maintaining and / or reducing the ease of clogging of pores in relation to the extract of fireweed (E. angustifolium).

Prior Art Documents

Patent Documents

[0017]

Patent Document 1

Patent Document 2

Patent Document 3

Patent Document 4

Patent Document 5

Patent Document 6

Summary of the Invention

Problems to be Solved by the Invention

[0018] Fireweed (E. angustifolium), also known as rhododendron or willowherb, is a species of the genus Chamerion in the family Onagraceae found in the Northern Hemisphere of the earth. This plant is known particularly for its use in the production of mountain honeys. Its leaves have anti - migraine activity and activity against sleep disorders when used in herbal tea. They also have healing properties.

Means for Solving the Problems

[0019] The Salix herbacea (E.angustifolium) extract according to the present invention has the advantage of being easily produced on an industrial scale. This is a plant raw material that is easily available and always renewable.

[0020] Furthermore, this extract has the advantage of being tolerated by all skin types. It is not toxic and does not induce irritation or allergic reactions.

Embodiments for Carrying out the Invention

[0021] Thus, the first object of the present invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of Salix herbacea (E.angustifolium) extract for reducing the tendency of skin pores to clog and / or preventing an increase in such clogging tendency. Another object relates to such use in a cosmetic composition containing at least one cosmetically acceptable additive. Another object further relates to a beauty care method including topical or oral administration of the Salix herbacea (E.angustifolium) extract according to the present invention or a cosmetic composition containing the same.

[0022] The first object of the present invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of Salix herbacea (E.angustifolium) extract for reducing the tendency of skin pores to clog and / or preventing an increase in such clogging tendency.

[0023] The term "cosmetic use" is intended to mean a use that is neither therapeutic, pharmaceutical, nor dermatological, i.e., a use that does not require a therapeutic treatment and is directed to healthy skin. The term "healthy skin" is intended to mean skin that is described by a dermatologist, an expert in this field, as not being diseased, i.e., skin that does not exhibit an infection, scar, skin disease or skin condition, such as candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, acne or dermatitis, dandruff, or a wound or injury and / or other skin diseases.

[0024] The extract according to the present invention is a topically acceptable component. The term "topically acceptable" is intended to mean a component that is non-toxic and non-irritating to the skin, does not induce allergic reactions, and is not chemically unstable, making it suitable for topical application.

[0025] The extract may be used orally or topically. Advantageously, it is used topically. The term “topically” is intended to mean the direct topical application and / or spraying of the component onto the surface of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0026] The extract can be applied topically to all or part of the body and / or face, preferably selected from the legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, stomach, chest, neck, arms, torso, back, face and / or scalp, more preferably the scalp and / or face, even more preferably the face, and very preferably the "T-zone" of the face.

[0027] First and foremost, skin does not include the scalp.

[0028] The term "reducing the visibility of skin pores" is intended to mean, for the purposes of the present invention, reducing the opening diameter and / or area and / or density of skin pores.

[0029] The visibility of skin pores can be demonstrated in vivo by an assessment referred to as "scoring" by a dermatologist on a given area after application of a composition containing the extract according to the present invention. This can also be demonstrated by objective instrumental methods using image analysis, which allows for the extraction and quantification of specific parameters from high-resolution photographs of a volunteer's face in a cross-polarized configuration taken before and after application of a composition containing the extract according to the present invention. Skin pore density can also be measured in vivo by image processing, particularly by stripe projection techniques, by measuring a parameter known as curvature.

[0030] The term "preventing increased visibility of skin pores" is intended to mean inhibiting an increase in the opening diameter of skin pores, particularly dilation, and / or an increase in area and / or an increase in skin pore density.

[0031] Dilated pores in the skin can be induced by intrinsic factors, such as hormonal fluctuations, or extrinsic factors, such as high or increasing external temperatures, UV radiation, pollution, strong chemical agents, or the administration of drugs that modify the keratinization mechanism. Epilobium angustifolium extract can help prevent dilated pores in the skin.

[0032] In one embodiment, the extract according to the present invention reduces the visibility of skin pores by reducing hyperkeratinization of the skin. The term "hyperkeratinization" is intended to mean excessive proliferation of keratin-producing cells, which does not involve the involvement of a medical condition requiring drug treatment, particularly dermatological treatment.

[0033] In preferred embodiments of the present invention, reducing hyperkeratosis can mean increasing the expression of the IGFBP3 gene and / or protein. Thus, advantageously, the extract according to the present invention is effective in maintaining and / or increasing the expression of the IGFBP3 gene and / or protein when the expression of IGBF3 increases by at least 60%, preferably at least 80%, more advantageously at least 100%, and very advantageously at least 150% in the presence of the extract according to the present invention compared to the expression level detected in the absence of the extract.

[0034] In an advantageous embodiment of the present invention, this involves, preferentially, an increase in IGFB3 protein expression measured in keratinizing cells described as “normal,” i.e., non-pathological. Preferably, the measurement of IGFB3 protein expression is performed by immunohistochemistry, and more preferably by ELISA.

[0035] More advantageously, this measurement is carried out in normal keratin-producing cells cultured in the presence of Epilobium angustifolium extract at a concentration of 0.05% by weight relative to the final volume of the culture medium, preferably as prepared in Example 1a), and particularly by the method described under the conditions of Example 2a).

[0036] Alternatively, reducing hyperkeratinization may also mean increasing the expression of type IV collagen genes and / or proteins. Thus, the Epilobium angustifolium extract according to the present invention is considered to be an effective amount for maintaining and / or increasing the expression of type IV collagen genes and / or proteins when the expression of type IV collagen genes and / or proteins increases by at least 40%, preferably at least 80%, more preferably at least 120%, and very preferably at least 150%, in the presence of the extract according to the present invention compared to the expression level detected in the absence of the extract.

[0037] In an advantageous embodiment of the present invention, this preferably involves an increase in type IV collagen protein expression measured in keratinizing cells described as “normal,” i.e., non-pathological. Preferably, the measurement of type IV collagen protein expression is performed by immunohistochemistry.

[0038] More advantageously, this measurement is performed by the method described under the conditions of Example 2b), preferably as prepared in Example 1a), and more advantageously, by 0.125 × 10⁶ of the final volume of culture medium. -2 At a concentration of weight percent, a very favorable ratio is 0.25 × 10⁻⁶. -2 The procedure is performed in normal keratin-producing cells cultured in the presence of Epilobium angustifolium extract at a concentration of % by weight.

[0039] In a preferred embodiment, reducing hyperkeratinization means increasing the expression of the IGFBP3 and type IV collagen genes and / or proteins.

[0040] The visibility of skin pores can also be evaluated in vivo. Thus, the extract is considered to be in an effective amount to "reduce and / or prevent an increase in skin pore visibility" when, in the presence of the Epilobium angustifolium extract according to the present invention, the visibility of skin pores is reduced by at least 5%, and preferably at least 8%, compared to the visibility of pores evaluated without the extract. In an advantageous embodiment of the present invention, the measurement of pore visibility is evaluated by a professional dermatologist in a population in which a cosmetic formulation containing the Epilobium angustifolium extract according to the present invention is applied topically to half of the face, with the second part of the face serving as a control. More advantageously, the cosmetic formulation contains a well-tested extract of Epilobium angustifolium according to Example 1a) at a final concentration of 0.20% by weight of the total weight of the formulation, which may be tested under the conditions described in Example 3.

[0041] Advantageously, the extract according to the present invention is neither an anti-acne active ingredient nor is used as an anti-acne active ingredient. In other words, it does not reduce acne, and in particular, it has no effect on the proliferation of Propionibacterium acnes.

[0042] Reducing the visibility of pores makes it possible to prevent the enlargement of skin pores. Thus, the extract according to the present invention is useful for making the skin smoother. The term "making the skin smoother" is intended to mean refining the texture of the skin and / or making the skin clearer.

[0043] In a very preferred embodiment, the use of the extract according to the present invention is not to reduce the visibility of hair follicles on the scalp and / or to prevent an increase in such visibility. More preferably, the extract is not active on the scalp.

[0044] The extract according to the present invention may be an extract of all or part of the plant Epilobium angustifolium, selected from leaves, flowers, petals, seeds, stems and / or above-ground parts. The term “above-ground parts” is here intended to mean a mixture of leaves, flowers and stems. Advantageously, the extract according to the present invention is an extract containing above-ground parts, and very advantageously, it is an extract containing only above-ground parts.

[0045] Extracts can be obtained by various extraction methods known to those skilled in the art, selected from maceration, high-temperature decoction, and grinding, including ultrasonic grinding using a mixer; or, in particular, by extraction in water under subcritical or supercritical conditions (carbon dioxide). Preferably, extraction is carried out by maceration.

[0046] Extraction may be carried out using a dry or fresh substance, preferably a dry substance, in an amount of 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably 1% to 20% by weight, very preferably 5% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the substance and the extraction solvent.

[0047] For the purposes of this invention, the term “dried material” is intended to mean dehydrated plant material containing less than 15%, preferably less than 10%, more preferably less than 5%, and very preferably less than 1% water.

[0048] Extraction can be carried out at ambient temperatures, i.e., temperatures in the range of 4°C to 300°C, including 20°C. In preferred embodiments of the present invention, extraction is carried out at temperatures of 60°C to 90°C, preferably 70°C to 85°C, and more preferably 80°C.

[0049] In one alternative embodiment of the present invention, the extraction is carried out at a temperature of 4°C to 25°C, more preferably 4°C to 20°C, and more favorably at ambient temperature, i.e., 20°C.

[0050] In yet another alternative embodiment of the present invention, extraction is carried out in water at a temperature of 100°C to 300°C, preferably in the range of 120°C to 250°C, more preferably at 120°C, under subcritical conditions. Extraction can be carried out at a single given temperature or at a continuously increasing temperature. In one advantageous embodiment of the present invention, extraction is carried out at a single temperature of 120°C. In an alternative embodiment, this is carried out by a gradient of three increasing temperatures, 100°C to 200°C, for example, 120°C, 140°C, then 160°C, or 110°C, 130°C, then 150°C, or otherwise 120°C, 145°C, then 170°C.

[0051] The term "extraction under subcritical conditions" is intended to mean extraction in the presence of water under conditions of temperatures above 100°C and pressures below 221 bar, such that water remains in a liquid state but has a viscosity and surface tension lower than that of water at ambient temperature, and its dielectric constant increases.

[0052] Thus, the extraction pressure is favorably between 150 and 250 bar, and preferably between 200 and 221 bar, in a pressure extraction autoclave.

[0053] Extraction can be performed over a period of 30 minutes to 24 hours, preferably 30 minutes to 12 hours, more preferably 1 hour to 5 hours, and most favorably 1 hour to 2 hours. Very favorably, extraction can be performed over a period of 2 hours.

[0054] The extract according to the present invention can be obtained by extraction in a solvent or solvent mixture, preferably in a protic polar solvent, preferably in water as the sole solvent, preferably in 99 / 1 to 1 / 99 (w / w) water, alcohol, glycol, polyol, water / alcohol, water / glycol, or water / polyol mixture (e.g., water mixed with ethanol, glycerol and / or butylene glycol and / or other glycols, e.g., xylitol and / or propanediol).

[0055] In particular, the extract is obtained by water extraction. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "extract obtained by water extraction" means any extract obtained by extraction with an aqueous solution containing more than 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, particularly at least 80% by weight, more specifically at least 90% by weight, particularly at least 95% by weight, of water relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, and more preferably free of glycols, particularly free of alcohols, and more specifically containing only water.

[0056] In another alternative embodiment of the present invention, the extraction may be carried out in the presence of a nonionic surfactant, preferably selected from lauryl glucoside, marketed by BASF under the name Plantacare® 1200UP, or caprylyl / capryl glucoside (Plantacare® 810UP), preferably caprylyl / capryl glucoside (Plantacare® 810UP). The weight concentration of the nonionic surfactant may be 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 1% by weight, and more preferably 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract.

[0057] Thus, in the first advantageous embodiment of the present invention, the extract is obtained by maceration in water as the sole solvent with the substance in an amount of 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the solvent and the dry material above ground, at ambient temperature, i.e., at a temperature of 20°C for a period of 2 hours. The macerate is decanted and centrifuged, and the supernatant is filtered (0.45 μm). The extract obtained in liquid form is spray-dried in the presence of maltodextrin (85% w / w) under the conditions described in Example 1a). The final extract is in powder form.

[0058] Thus, in a second advantageous embodiment of the present invention, the extract is obtained by maceration in water as the sole solvent with the substance in an amount of 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the solvent and the dry material above ground, at ambient temperature, i.e., at a temperature of 20°C for a period of 2 hours. The macerated material is then decanted and centrifuged, and the supernatant is filtered (0.45 μm) under the conditions described in Example 1b). The final extract is in liquid form.

[0059] In the third embodiment, the extract is obtained by maceration of 15% by weight of the substance relative to the total weight of the solvent and the dry material above ground in a water / ethanol mixture (20:80, v:v) at a temperature of 80°C for a period of 1 hour. The macerated material is decanted and centrifuged, and the supernatant is filtered (0.45 μm). The extract obtained in liquid form is then spray-dried in the presence of maltodextrin (85% w / w) under the conditions described in Example 1c). The final extract is in powder form.

[0060] In a fourth advantageous embodiment, the extract is obtained by maceration at ambient temperature, i.e., at 20°C for a period of 24 hours, in water as the sole solvent, in an amount of 10% by weight of the dry leaf material relative to the total weight of the solvent and leaves. The maceration is decanted and centrifuged, and the supernatant is filtered (0.45 μm). The extract obtained in liquid form is then spray-dried in the presence of maltodextrin (85% w / w) under the conditions described in Example 1d). The final extract is in powder form.

[0061] Further decolorization and / or deodorization steps can be performed at any stage of extraction and on the extract by techniques known to those skilled in the art. In particular, the extract can be decolorized with activated carbon.

[0062] In particular, the Epilobium angustifolium extract obtained in liquid form under the conditions described in Examples 1a) to 1d) can then be concentrated by evaporation of the solvent, or dried, for example, by freeze-drying or spray-drying in the presence of maltodextrin. The extract is then converted into a powder.

[0063] Thus, in one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the obtained extract is spray-dried in the presence of maltodextrin at a concentration of 20% to 90% by weight, preferably 40% to 85% by weight, more preferably 70% to 85% by weight, and very favorably 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the obtained powder. In a particular embodiment of the present invention, especially for its use in dermatology, the obtained willowherb (E. angustifolium) extract is sterilized.

[0064] The extract according to the present invention can be used alone in the form of a cosmetic ingredient or in a cosmetic composition containing at least one cosmetically acceptable additive. When used alone in the form of a cosmetic or dermatological ingredient, it is preferably solubilized in an aqueous solution containing glycerin present at a concentration of 60% to 90% by weight, more preferably 70% to 85% by weight, and very preferably 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous solution containing the extract, as presented in Example 4, for example.

[0065] In one alternative embodiment of the present invention, the extract is solubilized and / or diluted in a solvent, particularly a polar solvent, such as water, alcohol, polyol, glycol, such as pentylene glycol and / or butylene glycol and / or hexylene glycol and / or caprylyl glycol, or a mixture thereof, more preferably a glycol selected from hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof, preferably a water-glycol mixture. Advantageously, the resulting extract is diluted and / or soluble in an aqueous solution containing hexylene glycol, particularly 0.1% to 10% by weight of hexylene glycol, preferably 0.5% to 5% by weight of hexylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic component. Advantageously, the resulting extract is diluted and / or soluble in an aqueous solution containing caprylyl glycol, particularly 0.01% to 5% by weight of caprylyl glycol, preferably 0.1% to 1% by weight of caprylyl glycol, relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution containing the extract. In particular, the aqueous solution in which the willowherb (Epilobium angustifolium) extract is solubilized according to the present invention contains xanthan gum, especially 0.01% to 5% by weight of xanthan gum relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, and more specifically, 0.1% to 1% by weight of xanthan gum relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution containing the extract.

[0066] Advantageously, the solution obtained by solubilizing the Epilobium angustifolium extract according to the present invention particularly contains hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and xanthan gum in the amounts shown above.

[0067] The extract may also be present in a cosmetic composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable additive. The term “acceptable” is intended to mean a cosmetic additive or additive that does not induce an allergic response and is chemically stable and non-irritating to the skin.

[0068] Thus, the present invention relates to the use of Epilobium angustifolium extract in cosmetic compositions for reducing the visibility of skin pores and / or preventing an increase in such visibility, and / or for making the skin smoother.

[0069] In one embodiment of the present invention, the extract according to the present invention is 1 × 10 with respect to the total weight of the composition. -4 Weight % ~ 10% weight, preferred: 1 x 10 -4 Weight % to 5% of weight, more preferably 1 x 10 -3 Weight % to 3% of weight, with very high priority, 1 x 10 -3 It is present in cosmetic or skin compositions at a concentration of % to 0.1% by weight. In a very specific embodiment, in particular the extract prepared by Example 1a), it is present at a concentration of 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In another very specific embodiment, in particular the extract prepared by Example 1a), it is present at a concentration of 0.125 × 10⁻⁶ relative to the total weight of the composition. -2 Weight % or 0.25 × 10 -2 It exists at a concentration of weight percent.

[0070] Additives may be selected from surfactants and / or emulsifiers, preservatives, buffers, chelating agents, denaturing agents, opacifiers, pH adjusters, reducing agents, stabilizers, thickeners, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, fillers, mattifying agents, glossing agents, pigments, dyes, fragrances, and mixtures thereof. The CTFA (Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992)) describes various cosmetic additives suitable for use in the present invention.

[0071] Advantageously, the additives include, more preferably, steareth-2, steareth-21, glycol-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, natural tocopherol, glycerin, sodium dihydroxycetyl phosphate, isopropyl hydroxycetyl ether, glycine, and parabens from the group including polyglycerol, ester, cellulose polymer and derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrin, lactoperoxidase, sucrose-based stabilizers, vitamin E and its derivatives, xanthan gum, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiables, plant sterols, silicones, protein hydrolysates, betaine, amine oxide, plant extracts, saccharose esters, titanium dioxide, glycine, and parabens. Selected from the group consisting of chol, triisononanoin, octyl coconut oil fatty acid, polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, laureth-7, carbomer, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, bisabolol, dimethicone, sodium hydroxide, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, cetearyl octanoate, dibutyl adipate, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, magnesium sulfate, EDTA, cyclomethicone, xanthan gum, citric acid, sodium lauryl sulfate, mineral waxes and oils, isostearyl isostearate, propylene glycol diperargonate, propylene glycol isostearate, PEG-8, beeswax, glycerides from hydrogenated palm kernel oil, lanolin oil, sesame oil, cetyl lactate, lanolin alcohol, castor oil, titanium dioxide, lactose, sucrose, low-density polyethylene, isotonic saline, and mixtures thereof.

[0072] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be selected from aqueous or oily solutions, creams or aqueous or oily gels, particularly shower gels, milks, emulsions, microemulsions or nanoemulsions (particularly oil-in-water or water-in-oil, multilayer or silicone-based), masks, serums, lotions, liquid soaps, soap bars, ointments, foams, patches, and preferably, for example, makeup powders, rods or sticks, anhydrous products that are liquid, paste-like or solid. Advantageously, this is a cream or serum.

[0073] Cosmetic compositions may also contain other cosmetic active ingredients. Many cosmetic active ingredients are known to those skilled in the art for improving skin health and / or appearance. Furthermore, the compounds described in this invention may have synergistic effects when combined with each other. These combinations are also covered by this invention. The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992) describes, in particular, different cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries, especially those suitable for topical use. Examples of components in these classes, but not limited to, include the following compounds: abrasives, absorbents, compounds for aesthetic purposes, e.g., fragrances, pigments, dyes, essential oils, astringents, e.g., clove oil, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus oil, eugenol, menthyl lactate, witch hazel distillate, anti-acne agents, anti-aggregating agents, antifoaming agents, antimicrobial agents (e.g., iodopropyl butylcarbamate), antioxidants, binders, biological additives, buffers, leavening agents, chelating agents, additives, biocides, denaturants, thickeners, and vitamins, as well as their derivatives or equivalents, film-forming materials, polymers, opacifiers, pH adjusters, reducing agents, depigmentation agents or decolorizing agents (e.g., hydroquinone, kojic acid, ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucosamine), and quality improvers (e.g., humectants).

[0074] Advantageously, the willowherb (Epilobium angustifolium) extract according to the present invention has, as its sole active ingredient, or - Cosmetic and / or skin sebum regulators, preferably Bixa orellana extract, sarcosine, e.g., as marketed by the applicant under the name MAT-XS® Clinical; Orthosiphon stamineus extract, e.g., as marketed by the applicant under the name MAT-XS® Bright; zinc gluconate, zinc salicylate, azelaic acid and / or derivatives thereof, and / or advantageously, mixtures thereof in combination with zinc gluconate; and / or peeling agents and / or keratolytic agents: alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), in particular salicylic acid in combination with acacia protein (optionally), malic acid in combination with almond protein (optionally), glycolic acid; lactic acid and / or derivatives thereof; and / or mixtures thereof. - Sebum absorbent: Talc and / or absorbent polymer, - Agents acting on the microbiome, particularly the skin microbiome, e.g., Peumus boldus extract, particularly as marketed by the applicant under the name Betapur (trademark), and / or topical antibiotics, particularly erythromycin and / or clindamycin phosphate; agents for maintaining the balance of the microbiome, e.g., a mixture of pullulan, sodium alginate and sodium hyaluronate, in combination with serine, trehalose and urea, as described in brochure International Publication of Patent Application No. 2014027163A2, and marketed by the applicant under the name Relipidium (trademark), for increasing the symbiotic microbiome of the skin and / or mucous membranes. - Comedolytic agents, such as retinoic acid and / or its derivatives, such as isotretinoin, adapalene and / or 13-cis-retinoic acid and benzoyl peroxide; - Moisturizers, for example, polysaccharides extracted from Cassia angustifolia seeds and marketed by the applicant under the name Hyalurosmooth®, or agents selected from one of the combinations containing pullulan, sodium hyaluronate and sodium alginate, marketed by the applicant under the name PatcH2O®, or one or more natural moisturizing factor compounds or natural honey extracts, marketed by the applicant under the name Melhydran®, and / or the glucosylglyceride family, in particular hexosylglyceride compounds, and Litchi chinensis fruit peel extract, marketed by the applicant under the name Litchiderm®. It may be used in combination with one or more other activators having complementary effects, selected from among them, in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions, and preferably in skin compositions.

[0075] Advantageously, the cosmetic compositions containing the extracts according to the present invention contain sarcosine and Orthosiphon stamineus extract, Bixa orellana extract, zinc gluconate and another sebum regulator selected from mixtures thereof, Cassia angustifolia seed extract, hexosylglyceride, pullulan, sodium hyaluronate and sodium alginate, and a humectant selected from mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the compositions containing the extracts according to the present invention also contain Peumus boldus extract, pullulan, a mixture of sodium alginate and sodium hyaluronate, Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract, and an agent that acts on the bacterial flora selected from mixtures thereof.

[0076] Cosmetic compositions containing extracts according to the present invention include agents that stimulate the synthesis of fibronectin, in particular corn extract (such extracts are particularly marketed by the applicant under the name Deliner®), agents for protecting extracellular matrix fibroblast growth factor (FGF2) against its degradation and / or denaturation, in particular Hibiscus abelmoschus extract as described in the patent application filed in the applicant's name in French Patent Application Publication No. 0654316, and / or agents for stimulating fibroblast growth, for example, fermented soybean extract containing a peptide known as Phytokine®, which is marketed by the applicant and described in European Patent No. 1119344B1 (Laboratoires Expanscience), and preferably combinations of these two extracts; agents that stimulate the synthesis of laminin, in particular biotechnically modified malt extract (such extracts are particularly marketed by the applicant under the name Basaline®);Agents for stimulating the expression and / or activity of hyaluronic acid synthase 2 (HAS2), for example, plant extracts described in French Patent Application Publication No. 2893252A1, in particular aqueous extract of galangal (Alpinia galanga); agents for stimulating lysyl oxidase-like (LOXL) synthesis, for example, those described in French Patent Application Publication No. 2855968, and in particular dill (Anethum graveolens) extract; one or more anti-contamination agents, for example, Argania spinosa leaf extract sold under the name Arganyl®, or Moringa oleifera seed extract sold by the applicant under the name Purisoft®, or Eperua falcata root extract sold under the name Eperuline®; agents for stimulating intracellular ATP synthesis, in particular the alga Laminaria digitata Cosmetic active ingredients may be known to include extracts of digitata, agents having overall anti-aging effects, in particular anti-spot agents, especially niacinamide or vitamin B3, and any one of mixtures thereof, in cosmetic compositions.

[0077] Another subject of the present invention relates to a cosmetic care method, which includes topical or oral administration, preferably topical application, of an extract or cosmetic composition containing the same, for reducing the visibility of skin pores and / or preventing an increase in such visibility. Thus, the process makes the skin smoother.

[0078] In one embodiment of the present invention, a cosmetic care method includes topical application of an extract or cosmetic composition containing the present invention to all or part of the body and / or face, which is advantageously selected from the legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, stomach, chest, neck, arms, torso, back, face and / or scalp, more advantageously the scalp and / or face, and even more advantageously the face.

[0079] Examples referencing the description are presented below. These examples are provided for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention. Each example has a general scope. The examples form an integral part of the invention, and any features that appear novel compared to any prior art, understood as a whole including the examples, form an integral part of the invention.

[0080] Unless otherwise specified, temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius (°C), the abbreviation "w" stands for weight, and the abbreviation "v" stands for volume. [Examples]

[0081] The dried material useful for preparing the extract according to the present invention originates from France.

[0082] Example 1): Preparation of Epilobium angustifolium extract according to the present invention Example 1a) The substance in an amount of 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the solvent and the dry material above ground was macerated in water as the sole solvent at ambient temperature, i.e., at a temperature of 20°C, for a period of 2 hours. The macerated material was decanted and centrifuged, and the supernatant was filtered (0.45 μm). The extract obtained in liquid form was then spray-dried in the presence of maltodextrin (85% w / w). The final extract was in powder form.

[0083] Example 1b) The substance in an amount of 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the solvent and the dry material above ground was macerated in water as the sole solvent at ambient temperature, i.e., at a temperature of 20°C, for a period of 2 hours. The macerated material was decanted and centrifuged, and the supernatant was filtered (0.45 μm). The resulting extract was in liquid form.

[0084] Example 1 c) 15% by weight of the substance, relative to the total weight of the solvent and the aerial parts dry matter, was macerated for a period of 1 hour at a temperature of 80 °C in a water / ethanol mixture (20:80, v:v). The macerate was decanted and centrifuged, then the supernatant was filtered (0.45 μm). The extract obtained in liquid form was then spray-dried in the presence of maltodextrin (85% w / w). The final extract is in powder form.

[0085] Example 1 d) 10% by weight of the dry matter of the leaves, relative to the total weight of the solvent and the leaves, was macerated for a period of 24 hours at ambient temperature, i.e. at a temperature of 20 °C, in water as the sole solvent. The macerate was decanted and centrifuged, then the supernatant was filtered (0.45 μm). The extract obtained in liquid form was then spray-dried in the presence of maltodextrin (85% w / w). The final extract is in powder form.

[0086] Example 2): Reduction of the tendency for pores on the skin to clog Example 2 a): Increase in the protein expression of IGFBP3 Protocol: “Normal” keratin-producing cells, i.e. non-pathological keratin-producing cells, derived from healthy 19-year-old donors were cultured in a defined medium (KSFM) to confluence at a temperature of 37 °C (5% CO2 atmosphere), then the extract of E. angustifolium was added to the medium at concentrations of 5×10 -3 % by weight and 2.5×10 -2 % by weight, relative to the final volume of the medium. The same medium without the addition of the extract served as a control. The supernatant of the culture medium was recovered by centrifugation, then the protein expression of IGFB3 was measured by ELISA technique (see LSBio human IGFBP-3 ELISA kit LS-F24538). The optical density was measured at 450 nm. The results were standardized against the control and represent the mean (MEAN) of six experiments (n = 6) (SD: standard deviation).

[0087] Results

[0088]

Table 1

[0089] Conclusion: The results showed an increase in IGFB3 protein expression in keratin-producing cells, which is an indication of the ability of the Epilobium angustifolium extract according to the present invention to reduce hyperkeratinization and / or prevent an increase in the visibility of skin pores.

[0090] Example 2b): Increased protein expression of type IV collagen protocol: "Normal" human keratin-producing cells, i.e., keratin-producing cells that did not show any pathological condition, from a healthy 24-year-old female donor were cultured in limited medium (KSFM) for 48 hours in the presence of different final concentrations of Epilobium angustifolium extract, and then the cell medium was removed. The same culture medium without the addition of the extract according to the present invention was used as a control. The resulting cell layer was lysed in ammonium hydroxide solution, and then type IV collagen was assayed with anti-type IV collagen antibody diluted to 1 / 4000 in buffer solution (PBS). After a period of 90 minutes, a secondary antibody diluted to 1 / 25000 was applied for a period of 60 minutes. After washing, developer was added, and fluorescence was measured (ENVision, PerkinElmer). The fluorescence results were standardized against fluorescence obtained in the same cell medium in the absence of Epilobium angustifolium extract (control) and correlated with the amount of DNA obtained under each condition. The results presented correspond to the mean of the six assays (n=6) (SD: standard deviation).

[0091] result:

[0092] [Table 2]

[0093] Conclusion: Epilobium angustifolium extract increased type IV collagen protein expression in analyzed keratin-producing cells, demonstrating its ability to reduce and / or prevent the increased visibility of skin pores.

[0094] Example 3): Analysis of the reduction in the visibility of skin pores by measuring the area of ​​skin pores. Protocol: A cosmetic formulation containing a final concentration of 0.20% by weight of Epilobium angustifolium extract, as prepared in Example 1a), relative to the total weight of the cosmetic formulation, was applied twice daily to half of the faces of 34 Asian women aged 20-45 years for a period of 56 days. The same cosmetic formulation (control), containing water instead of Epilobium angustifolium extract, was applied to the remaining half of the faces of the same population under the same conditions. Measurements were taken on D0 and D56 (day 56). Experts in this field, i.e., dermatologists, evaluated the halves of the 34 faces to which the cosmetic formulation was applied, comparing these halves with the halves to which the control formulation was applied. The results of the measurement of skin pore area can be found in Table III below.

[0095] result:

[0096] [Table 3]

[0097] Conclusion: Analysis showed an average reduction of 9% in pore area in the presence of Epilobium angustifolium extract after 56 days of twice-daily application.

[0098] Example 4): Cosmetic ingredient containing the willowherb (Epilobium angustifolium) extract according to the present invention The percentage is expressed in terms of weight. Epilobium angustifolium extract, Example 1a) 0.2% Water 19.8% Glycerin 80%

[0099] Example 5): Cosmetic formulation containing the willowherb (Epilobium angustifolium) extract according to the present invention The extract used was obtained in Example 1a). Percentages are expressed as weight relative to the total weight of the formulation.

[0100] [Table 4]

Claims

1. A non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of Epilobium angustifolium for reducing the tendency of the pores of the skin to clog and / or preventing an increase in such clogging tendency, wherein the extract is an aqueous extract of the aerial parts of Epilobium angustifolium obtained using only water as a solvent, for cosmetic use.

2. The cosmetic use according to claim 1, wherein the extract maintains and / or increases the expression of the IGFBP3 gene and / or protein and maintains and / or increases the expression of the type IV collagen gene and / or protein.

3. The cosmetic use according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the extract makes the skin smoother.

4. The extract is contained in a cosmetic composition containing at least one cosmetically acceptable additive at a concentration of 1×10 －４ % by weight to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and the cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 3 is characterized in that.

5. The extract is contained in a cosmetic composition containing at least one cosmetically acceptable additive at a concentration of 1×10 －４ % to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, characterized in that the cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 3 is provided.

6. The extract is contained in a cosmetic composition containing at least one cosmetically acceptable additive at a concentration of 1×10 －３ % by weight to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and the cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 3 is characterized by this.

7. The cosmetic use according to any one of claims 4 to 6, wherein the cosmetic composition is applied to all or part of the body and / or face selected from the legs, feet, underarms, hands, thighs, abdomen, chest, neck, arms, torso, back and face.

8. A beauty care method for reducing the tendency of the pores of the skin to clog and / or preventing an increase in such clogging tendency, the method comprising topical or oral administration of an extract of Epilobium angustifolium (E. angustifolium) or a cosmetic composition containing the same, wherein the extract is an aqueous extract of the aerial parts of Epilobium angustifolium obtained using only water as a solvent, for beauty care.

9. The beauty care method according to claim 8, comprising topical application of the Epilobium angustifolium extract or a cosmetic composition containing the same.

10. The beauty care method according to claim 8 or 9, characterized by making the skin smoother.

11. The beauty care method according to any one of claims 8 to 10, comprising topical application of an extract of Epilobium angustifolium (E. angustifolium) or a cosmetic composition containing the same to all or part of the body and / or face selected from the legs, feet, underarms, hands, thighs, abdomen, chest, neck, arms, torso, back and face.